CN1357274A - 衬衫缝骨的抗皱整理方法 - Google Patents

衬衫缝骨的抗皱整理方法 Download PDF

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Publication number
CN1357274A
CN1357274A CN01129786A CN01129786A CN1357274A CN 1357274 A CN1357274 A CN 1357274A CN 01129786 A CN01129786 A CN 01129786A CN 01129786 A CN01129786 A CN 01129786A CN 1357274 A CN1357274 A CN 1357274A
Authority
CN
China
Prior art keywords
hot melt
wormiam bone
melt adhesive
press
lining band
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
CN01129786A
Other languages
English (en)
Other versions
CN1158950C (zh
Inventor
张玉高
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Guangdong Esquel Textiles Co Ltd
Original Assignee
Guangdong Esquel Textiles Co Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Guangdong Esquel Textiles Co Ltd filed Critical Guangdong Esquel Textiles Co Ltd
Priority to CNB011297867A priority Critical patent/CN1158950C/zh
Priority claimed from US10/073,445 external-priority patent/US7013818B2/en
Priority to US10/073,445 priority patent/US7013818B2/en
Publication of CN1357274A publication Critical patent/CN1357274A/zh
Priority to ES06076640T priority patent/ES2387314T3/es
Priority to MXPA04003652A priority patent/MXPA04003652A/es
Priority to PCT/CN2002/000511 priority patent/WO2003032763A1/en
Priority to IL16146002A priority patent/IL161460A0/xx
Priority to EP02752962A priority patent/EP1345504B1/en
Priority to JP2003533380A priority patent/JP3732842B2/ja
Priority to CA002463677A priority patent/CA2463677C/en
Priority to CA002593445A priority patent/CA2593445C/en
Priority to BR0213427-6A priority patent/BR0213427A/pt
Priority to YUP-327/04A priority patent/RS51080B/sr
Priority to EP06076640A priority patent/EP1736067B1/en
Priority to RU2005132224/21A priority patent/RU2415620C2/ru
Priority to AU2002313445A priority patent/AU2002313445B2/en
Priority to AT06076640T priority patent/ATE555675T1/de
Priority to DK06076640.9T priority patent/DK1736067T3/da
Priority to CNB028045599A priority patent/CN1231157C/zh
Priority to ES02752962T priority patent/ES2271305T3/es
Priority to RU2004114990/12A priority patent/RU2285438C2/ru
Priority to AT02752962T priority patent/ATE338479T1/de
Priority to KR1020037008154A priority patent/KR100579951B1/ko
Priority to DE60214508T priority patent/DE60214508T2/de
Priority to HK04101225A priority patent/HK1058461A1/xx
Priority to IL161460A priority patent/IL161460A/en
Priority to MA27635A priority patent/MA26340A1/fr
Publication of CN1158950C publication Critical patent/CN1158950C/zh
Application granted granted Critical
Priority to US11/273,188 priority patent/US8336474B2/en
Priority to AU2007202272A priority patent/AU2007202272B9/en
Priority to HK07106492.3A priority patent/HK1098927A1/xx
Priority to IL187205A priority patent/IL187205A/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/24—Hems; Seams
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C65/00—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor
    • B29C65/02—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by heating, with or without pressure
    • B29C65/18—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by heating, with or without pressure using heated tools
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C65/00—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor
    • B29C65/48—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding
    • B29C65/4805—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding characterised by the type of adhesives
    • B29C65/481—Non-reactive adhesives, e.g. physically hardening adhesives
    • B29C65/4815—Hot melt adhesives, e.g. thermoplastic adhesives
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
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    • B29C65/00—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor
    • B29C65/48—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding
    • B29C65/50—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding using adhesive tape, e.g. thermoplastic tape; using threads or the like
    • B29C65/5042—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding using adhesive tape, e.g. thermoplastic tape; using threads or the like covering both elements to be joined
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
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    • B29C65/48—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding
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    • B29C65/5057—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding using adhesive tape, e.g. thermoplastic tape; using threads or the like positioned between the surfaces to be joined
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    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
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    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
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    • B29C65/5064—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding using adhesive tape, e.g. thermoplastic tape; using threads or the like of particular form, e.g. being C-shaped, T-shaped
    • B29C65/5085—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding using adhesive tape, e.g. thermoplastic tape; using threads or the like of particular form, e.g. being C-shaped, T-shaped and comprising grooves, e.g. being E-shaped, H-shaped
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
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    • B29C65/00—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor
    • B29C65/48—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding
    • B29C65/50—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding using adhesive tape, e.g. thermoplastic tape; using threads or the like
    • B29C65/5092—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using adhesives, i.e. using supplementary joining material; solvent bonding using adhesive tape, e.g. thermoplastic tape; using threads or the like characterised by the tape handling mechanisms, e.g. using vacuum
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C65/00—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor
    • B29C65/56—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor using mechanical means or mechanical connections, e.g. form-fits
    • B29C65/62—Stitching
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C65/00—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor
    • B29C65/72—Joining or sealing of preformed parts, e.g. welding of plastics materials; Apparatus therefor by combined operations or combined techniques, e.g. welding and stitching
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C66/00—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts
    • B29C66/01—General aspects dealing with the joint area or with the area to be joined
    • B29C66/05—Particular design of joint configurations
    • B29C66/10—Particular design of joint configurations particular design of the joint cross-sections
    • B29C66/11—Joint cross-sections comprising a single joint-segment, i.e. one of the parts to be joined comprising a single joint-segment in the joint cross-section
    • B29C66/112—Single lapped joints
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C66/00—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts
    • B29C66/01—General aspects dealing with the joint area or with the area to be joined
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    • B29C66/112—Single lapped joints
    • B29C66/1122—Single lap to lap joints, i.e. overlap joints
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29C—SHAPING OR JOINING OF PLASTICS; SHAPING OF MATERIAL IN A PLASTIC STATE, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; AFTER-TREATMENT OF THE SHAPED PRODUCTS, e.g. REPAIRING
    • B29C66/00—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts
    • B29C66/01—General aspects dealing with the joint area or with the area to be joined
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    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
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    • B29C66/135—Single hemmed joints, i.e. one of the parts to be joined being hemmed in the joint area
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    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
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    • B29C66/00—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts
    • B29C66/40—General aspects of joining substantially flat articles, e.g. plates, sheets or web-like materials; Making flat seams in tubular or hollow articles; Joining single elements to substantially flat surfaces
    • B29C66/41—Joining substantially flat articles ; Making flat seams in tubular or hollow articles
    • B29C66/43—Joining a relatively small portion of the surface of said articles
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    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
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    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
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    • B29C66/00—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts
    • B29C66/70—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts characterised by the composition, physical properties or the structure of the material of the parts to be joined; Joining with non-plastics material
    • B29C66/72—General aspects of processes or apparatus for joining preformed parts characterised by the composition, physical properties or the structure of the material of the parts to be joined; Joining with non-plastics material characterised by the structure of the material of the parts to be joined
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    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
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    • B29C66/80—General aspects of machine operations or constructions and parts thereof
    • B29C66/83—General aspects of machine operations or constructions and parts thereof characterised by the movement of the joining or pressing tools
    • B29C66/836—Moving relative to and tangentially to the parts to be joined, e.g. transversely to the displacement of the parts to be joined, e.g. using a X-Y table
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    • B29—WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
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    • D05B—SEWING
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Abstract

本发明涉及一种衬衫缝骨的抗皱整理方法,其主要车缝法是,在衬衫衣物裁片中沿缝车入一条热熔性粘合衬带,并保证其表面与外观裁片直接接触;当施加足够的热量和压力以后,粘合衬带上的粘胶剂就会熔融,从而粘合相邻两片布料形成一个扁平的缝线,使两片衣物裁片沿缝紧密地结合在一起,得到一个全新的平滑缝骨,消除多次洗烫导致衣物缝线收缩所引起的褶皱,使衣物达到车缝讲究,耐洗抗皱的效果。

Description

衬衫缝骨的抗皱整理方法
本发明涉及一种方法，特别是一种衬衫缝骨的抗皱整理方法。
一般认为，织物的免烫整理技术始于1926年，当时Foulds，R。P等人用水溶性脲醛、酚醛树酯处理棉织物以提高其抗皱性能，到目前已有70多年的历史，先后经历了防缩防皱整理、洗可穿(Wash andWear)整理和耐久压烫整理(即DP整理)阶段。防缩防皱整理只赋予织物干防缩防皱性能。洗可穿整理既具有干防缩防皱性能，又具有湿防缩防皱性能。耐久压烫整理是通过压烫，赋予织物平整、挺括和持久性褶裥效果，使棉织物的外观全面达到或接近合成纤维织物的水平。现有的抗皱技术多数是针对成衣进行处理的，可是在不断地洗烫过程中，容易导致衣物的缝骨部位缝线的径向收缩，这种收缩要比其周围的衣物材料的收缩大得多，从而引起两片衣物裁片间缝骨的皱褶。衣物缝骨的褶皱现象已经困扰制衣界很久了，而且这种现象不只是存在于棉衬衫上，对于化纤及化纤与棉混纺衬衫同样存在。因此，很需要寻找一种车缝方法去消除褶皱现象，使衣物缝骨保持平滑，甚至在多次洗烫后也不起褶皱。
至今，只有少数研究者去消除缝骨的皱褶。
一种较为普遍的方法是在缝骨的夹层中加入一片热塑性树脂的小片，在制作过程中，待车缝完毕后熨烫缝骨，从而使衣物缝骨的厚度减少，这种厚度的减少使缝线的松驰以至于缝线的松驰度可以补偿其经过多次洗烫后的收缩率。这种方法不能彻底有效地消除缝骨褶皱。首先，缝制在一起的两片裁片，可能在针步附近发生分离，从而导致缝骨上布料的褶皱；其次，缝线在高温下在树脂中压出一条沟痕，并陷入其中，从而引起缝骨一定程度的皱褶。
国内许多厂家采用涂有胶联剂的朴，但是只是用于制作免烫领和介英，而且在这方面也没有文献报道，多数采用普通的缝制方法。
国外专利(US6,079,343)报道用网状粘合衬制作免烫缝骨，其熔点为60-160℃。这主要存在以下缺点：首先，网状粘合衬在缝制过程中会发生卷边现象，而且其拉伸强度小，容易断裂，不利于机械操作；其次，网状粘合衬在缝制过程中自身容易伸缩，导致粘合衬宽度变化。压烫后，或是粘合剂溢出到缝骨以外，或是缝线处没有粘合剂，都会引起不必要的褶皱；再次，该粘合衬的网状结构，在压烫时，容易导致粘合强力不够和粘合后布面的凹凸不平；最后，在其后进行的成衣免烫处理中，一般要在150-170℃的条件下经过5-15分钟焙烘加工过程，而该粘合衬的熔点为60-160℃，这样经过烘箱后，导致胶料熔融流失或渗透织物程度过大。
本发明的目的在于提供一种可消除洗烫所引起的缝骨的褶皱，以得到一种剪裁讲究的免烫的外观，且操作简单，不用对原有设备做大的改造的衬衫缝骨的抗皱整理方法。
本发明的目的可以通过以下措施来达到：
一种衬衫缝骨的抗皱整理方法，主要包括以下步骤：
a、对于不同的缝骨部位，选择适当的热熔性粘合衬带；
b、在衬衫衣物裁片中沿缝车入一条热熔性粘合衬带，并保证其表面与外观裁片直接接触；
c、施加足够的热量和压力，使热熔性粘合衬带熔融，从而粘合相邻两片布料形成一个扁平的接缝，使两片衣物裁片沿缝紧密结合在一起。
本发明的目的还可以通过以下措施来达到：加入热熔性粘合衬带的操作或部位包括拉钮子、车袋口、装袋、上担干、纳膊、拉细侧、拉大侧、封三尖、上袖、埋夹、拉脚。压烫的顺序首先进行拉筒、拉钮子、装袋、上担干、车唛头、纳膊的操作，对其相应部位缝骨进行压烫，同时可车侧贴、封三尖，并对其相应部位缝骨进行压烫，然后上袖，并对其相应部位缝骨进行压烫，即压夹圈，接着进行埋夹，并对其相应部位缝骨进行压烫，即压侧缝，其后衣物进行拉脚，并对其相应部位缝骨进行压烫，即压脚，最后夹介英、上领，进行成衣免烫处理。所述的热熔性粘合衬带为带状薄膜，其宽度为3-16mm厚度为5-50微米。所述的热熔性粘合衬带其熔点范围约为150-190℃。所述的热熔性粘合衬带为热塑性树脂材料，可以从聚乙烯、聚脂、聚酰胺、聚亚胺酯等共聚物材料中选取，其中聚乙烯为高密度聚乙烯。筒子、介英和领子都直接采用粘合朴，粘合朴两面都含有热熔粘胶剂，并经过压烫整理。在所述缝制过程中，以辅助物(蝴蝶)来实现热熔性粘合衬带或粘合朴的引入。压烫步骤是利用压烫机来实现，压烫过程实施条件为温度150-190℃，压力2.5-8.0Kg/cm2，持续时间为10-30秒。
本发明相比现有技术具有如下优点：
1、在衬衫衣物裁片中沿缝车入一条垫熔性薄膜粘合衬带，该衬带克服了各类网状粘合衬易拉伸、易撕裂、易卷边、难操作等缺点，当施加足够的热量和压力以后，可使两片衣物裁片沿缝紧密地结合在一起，消除多次洗烫导致的衣物缝线收缩所引起的褶皱。
2、操作简便，压烫方便，不用对原设备做大的改造，所采用的压烫法不会产生对人体有害的物质，对衣物的所有缝骨都进行了特殊的处理，并且得到一种剪裁讲究的免烫的外观。
图1-图9为加入热熔性粘合衬带后衬衫各部位车缝方法的示意图。
本发明下面将结合附图(实施例)作进一步评述：
对于两片裁片或缝骨，都要经过布料对缝、夹粘合衬带或粘合朴、缝合、压烫等步骤。对于衬衫的不同部位，具体操作不尽相同，下面具体介绍免烫缝骨的缝制方法。
参照图书1-图9，1裁片为缝骨上处于外观的裁片，而2裁片则是缝骨上处于内部的裁片，裁片6是特殊部位(领及担干部位)的第三裁片，不影响操作。在拉脚操作中1裁片包括左前幅、右前幅和后幅；在拉钮子操作中1裁片指右前幅；上袋操作中，1裁片为袋，2裁片为左前幅；对于侧缝，1裁片为后幅和后袖，2裁片为对应的前幅和前袖；在上袖的操作中，1裁片包括前幅、后幅和担干，2裁片为袖子；对于后担干，1裁片为担干外片，6裁片为担干内片，2裁片为后幅；而前担干中，1、6裁片同样分别为但干的外、内片，2裁片则为左、右前幅；对于袖侧，1裁片为大侧或细侧，对应的2裁片为后袖或前袖。
车缝时，在1、2裁片之间车入一条粘合带3，在车缝过程一定要保证粘合衬带3与此1裁片紧密相接，2裁片也要和粘合衬带3毗邻。在操作过程中，有时先把粘合衬3和1、2裁片缝合在一起，就是“运”的操作5，然后再沿粘合衬3折叠1裁片，继续缝合完毕，完成“间”的操作4，有时则直接实行4操作，把粘合衬3和1、2裁片缝合在一起。在缝制过程中，借助于位于衣车车面上的蝴蝶导入粘合衬带子，不同的缝制部位采用不同的蝴蝶。在此过程中，蝴蝶起到了引导衣物裁片及使粘合衬带子平滑入缝骨的作用。拉筒、领子、介英同样借助蝴蝶直接引入粘合朴，其车缝方法与普通车缝相同，这里不再赘述。每个部位车缝完毕，要沿粘合衬3的方向进行压烫，压烫温度为150-180℃，压力为2.5-8.0Kg/cm，持续时间为10到30秒。
在制衣过程中，要根据不同部位按流程，分步进行车缝和压烫。首先进行拉筒、拉钮子、装袋、上担干、车唛头、纳膊操作，并对其相应部位缝骨进行压烫。与此同时可车侧贴、封三尖，然后上袖、压夹圈；接着进行埋夹，并对其相应部位缝骨进行压烫，即压侧缝；其后衣物进行拉脚，并对其相应部位缝骨进行压烫，即压脚；最后，夹介英、上领，并进行成衣免烫处理。
本发明的一项重要内容就是采用了一种新型的粘合衬带3，它是一片很薄的热塑性聚合物薄膜带，其宽度在6-13mm的范围内，根据不同的部位选用适合宽度。该薄膜型粘合衬带克服了各类网状粘合衬易拉伸、易撕裂、易卷边、难操作等缺点。在缝制过程中，借助蝴蝶可以方便地将其引入衣物缝骨中。该聚合物薄膜衬带的熔点为150-180℃，当在烫机上压烫缝骨时，压烫温度在180℃以下，粘合衬3就会熔化，从而把1裁片的内表面和与其相邻的另一布片紧密地连到一起，就是由于这种相连，消除了原来一直未能解决的针步周围由于缝合布片分离起泡引起的皱褶，同时也消除或者降低了多次洗烫使缝线收缩所引起的皱褶。粘合衬3的熔点为150-180℃，经过150-170℃的成衣免烫处理后，整体粘合效果将达到最佳。

Claims (9)

1、一种衬衫缝骨的抗皱整理方法，主要包括以下步骤：
a、对于不同的缝骨部位，选择适当的热熔性粘合衬带；
b、在衬衫衣物裁片中沿缝车入一条热熔性粘合衬带，并保证其表面与外观裁片直接接触；
c、施加足够的热量和压力，使热熔性粘合衬带熔融，从而粘合相邻两片布料形成一个扁平的接缝，使两片衣物裁片沿缝紧密结合在一起。
2、根据权利要求1所述的方法，其特征在于：加入热熔性粘合衬带的操作或部位包括拉钮子、车袋口、装袋、上担干、纳膊、拉细侧、拉大侧、封三尖、上袖、埋夹、拉脚。
3、根据权利要求1所述的方法，其特征在于：压烫的顺序首先进行拉筒、拉钮子、装袋、上担干、车唛头、纳膊的操作，对其相应部位缝骨进行压烫，同时可车侧贴、封三尖，并对其相应部位缝骨进行压烫，然后上袖，并对其相应部位缝骨进行压烫，即压夹圈，接着进行埋夹，并对其相应部位缝骨进行压烫，即压侧缝，其后衣物进行拉脚，并对其相应部位缝骨进行压烫，即压脚，最后夹介英、上领，进行成衣免烫处理。
4、根据权利要求1所述的方法，其特征在于：所述的热熔性粘合衬带为带状薄膜，其宽度为3-16毫米，厚度为5-50微米。
5、根据权利要求1所述的方法，其特征在于：所述的热熔性粘合衬带其熔点范围约为150-190℃。
6、根据权利要求1所述的方法，其特征在于：所述的热熔性粘合衬带为热塑性树脂材料，可以从聚乙烯、聚酯、聚亚胺酯、聚酰胺等共聚物材料中选取，其中聚乙烯为高密度聚乙烯。
7、根据权利要求1或3所述的方法，其特征在于：筒子、介英和领子都直接采用粘合朴，粘合朴两面都含有热熔粘胶剂，并经过压烫整理。
8、根据权利要求1所述的方法，其特征在于：在所述缝制过程中，以辅助物(蝴蝶)来实现热熔性粘合衬带或粘合朴的引入。
9、根据权利要求1所述的方法，其特征在于：压烫步骤是利用压烫机来实现，压烫过程实施条件为温度150-190℃，压力2.5-8.0Kg/cm2，持续时间为10-30秒。
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CNB011297867A CN1158950C (zh) 2001-10-18 2001-10-18 衬衫缝骨的抗皱整理方法
US10/073,445 US7013818B2 (en) 2001-10-18 2002-02-11 Wrinkle free garment and method of manufacture
DE60214508T DE60214508T2 (de) 2001-10-18 2002-07-22 Knitterfreie bekleidung und verfahren zu deren hestellung
AT06076640T ATE555675T1 (de) 2001-10-18 2002-07-22 Knitterfaltelose kleidung und herstellungsverfahren
CNB028045599A CN1231157C (zh) 2001-10-18 2002-07-22 无皱线缝及其制造方法
PCT/CN2002/000511 WO2003032763A1 (en) 2001-10-18 2002-07-22 Wrinkle free garment and method of manufacture
IL16146002A IL161460A0 (en) 2001-10-18 2002-07-22 Wrinkle free garment and method of manufacture
EP02752962A EP1345504B1 (en) 2001-10-18 2002-07-22 Wrinkle free garment and method of manufacture
JP2003533380A JP3732842B2 (ja) 2001-10-18 2002-07-22 皺の寄らない衣服および皺の寄らない衣服の製造方法
CA002463677A CA2463677C (en) 2001-10-18 2002-07-22 Wrinkle free garment and method of manufacture
CA002593445A CA2593445C (en) 2001-10-18 2002-07-22 Wrinkle free garment and method of manufacture
BR0213427-6A BR0213427A (pt) 2001-10-18 2002-07-22 Artigo de vestuário isento de rugas e método de fabricação
YUP-327/04A RS51080B (sr) 2001-10-18 2002-07-22 Odeća bez nabora i metod za proizvodnju
EP06076640A EP1736067B1 (en) 2001-10-18 2002-07-22 Wrinkle free garment and method of manufacture
RU2005132224/21A RU2415620C2 (ru) 2001-10-18 2002-07-22 Одежда без морщин и способ ее изготовления
AU2002313445A AU2002313445B2 (en) 2001-10-18 2002-07-22 Wrinkle free garment and method of manufacture
ES06076640T ES2387314T3 (es) 2001-10-18 2002-07-22 Prenda de vestir inarrugable y método de fabricación
DK06076640.9T DK1736067T3 (da) 2001-10-18 2002-07-22 Krølfri beklædningsdel og fremgangsmåde til fremstilling
MXPA04003652A MXPA04003652A (es) 2001-10-18 2002-07-22 Prenda sin arrugas y metodo de manufactura.
ES02752962T ES2271305T3 (es) 2001-10-18 2002-07-22 Prenda de vestir inarrugable y metodo de fabricacion.
RU2004114990/12A RU2285438C2 (ru) 2001-10-18 2002-07-22 Одежда без морщин и способ ее изготовления
AT02752962T ATE338479T1 (de) 2001-10-18 2002-07-22 Knitterfreie bekleidung und verfahren zu deren hestellung
KR1020037008154A KR100579951B1 (ko) 2001-10-18 2002-07-22 링클프리 시임 및 그 제조 방법
HK04101225A HK1058461A1 (en) 2001-10-18 2004-02-20 Wrinkle free garment and method of manufacture
IL161460A IL161460A (en) 2001-10-18 2004-04-15 Wrinkle-free garment and its production method
MA27635A MA26340A1 (fr) 2001-10-18 2004-04-16 Vetement sans plis et procede de fabrication
US11/273,188 US8336474B2 (en) 2001-10-18 2005-11-14 Wrinkle free garment and method of manufacture
AU2007202272A AU2007202272B9 (en) 2001-10-18 2007-05-21 Wrinkle free garment and method of manufacture
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CN1988817B (zh) * 2004-05-21 2010-06-02 芒廷哈德韦尔公司 粘结的接缝及形成接缝的方法
CN102373616A (zh) * 2010-08-20 2012-03-14 寇驰有限公司 接合织物面料的方法
CN102373616B (zh) * 2010-08-20 2015-11-04 寇驰有限公司 接合织物面料的方法
CN103161060A (zh) * 2011-12-15 2013-06-19 麦丝玛拉一人有限责任公司 连接两部分织物的方法、多层织物结构以及衣物
CN103161060B (zh) * 2011-12-15 2016-05-04 麦丝玛拉一人有限责任公司 连接两部分织物的方法、多层织物结构以及衣物
CN104413823A (zh) * 2013-09-09 2015-03-18 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 一种衣服及其生产方法
CN107183816A (zh) * 2017-06-05 2017-09-22 上海杰西衬衫有限公司 纯棉高纱支衬衫缝迹定型工艺
CN110101154A (zh) * 2019-05-31 2019-08-09 云南浩祥服饰有限公司 一种改善成衣缝位起皱的方法
CN111109740A (zh) * 2019-08-23 2020-05-08 深圳市大毛牛新材料科技有限公司 一种制作裤子边的收边工艺
CN110810938A (zh) * 2019-12-07 2020-02-21 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 具有防渗胶功能的服装制作方法
CN111543684A (zh) * 2020-06-10 2020-08-18 深圳市珂莱蒂尔服饰有限公司 一种丝绒面料斜破缝拼接的连衣裙及其制备方法
CN111543684B (zh) * 2020-06-10 2022-05-17 深圳市珂莱蒂尔服饰有限公司 一种丝绒面料斜破缝拼接的连衣裙及其制备方法
CN112056639A (zh) * 2020-08-24 2020-12-11 金利来(中国)有限公司 一种加防霉抗菌衬的免烫衬衫工艺

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EP1345504A4 (en) 2004-07-07
WO2003032763A1 (en) 2003-04-24
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MA26340A1 (fr) 2004-10-01
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CA2593445C (en) 2009-12-22

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