CN1259480C - 特殊整理的双面异性纯棉快干织物的生产方法 - Google Patents

特殊整理的双面异性纯棉快干织物的生产方法 Download PDF

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CN1259480C
CN1259480C CNB2004100272977A CN200410027297A CN1259480C CN 1259480 C CN1259480 C CN 1259480C CN B2004100272977 A CNB2004100272977 A CN B2004100272977A CN 200410027297 A CN200410027297 A CN 200410027297A CN 1259480 C CN1259480 C CN 1259480C
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hydrophobic
yarn
hydrophilic
pure cotton
fabric
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CN1580384A (zh
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张玉高
肖军
陈百顺
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Guangdong Esquel Textiles Co Ltd
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Guangdong Esquel Textiles Co Ltd
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Priority to CNB2004100272977A priority Critical patent/CN1259480C/zh
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Priority to JP2007516942A priority patent/JP4463848B2/ja
Priority to CN2005800012760A priority patent/CN1973081B/zh
Priority to GB0616901A priority patent/GB2432167C/en
Priority to DE112005000904.1T priority patent/DE112005000904B4/de
Priority to PCT/CN2005/000558 priority patent/WO2005113884A1/zh
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Abstract

一种特殊整理的双面异性纯棉快干织物的生产方法，其特征在于：先对纯棉棉纱进行亲水整理和疏水整理，得到亲水整理纱线和疏水整理纱线，然后将两种纱线通过编织，得到一面亲水、另一面疏水或者一层亲水、另一层疏水的双面异性织物。本发明采用不同的整理方法对双层纯棉纱线进行整理，得到不同性质的纱线；内层为疏水纯棉纱线，具有良好的透湿性和透气性，外层为亲水纯绵纱线，吸水性极佳，和内层形成内外层差，给水传递提供动力，内层湿气可以很快渗透到外层，内层保持干爽，从而达到排汗快干功能。织物采用100%纯棉面料，经过整具有很好的手感，具有优良的服用舒适性。

Description

特殊整理的双面异性纯棉快干织物的生产方法
所属技术领域
本发明涉及一种生产方法，特别是一种特殊整理的双面异性纯棉快干织物的生产方法。
背景技术
随着人们生活水平的提高和制衣业的发展，消费者对衣物的舒适性、外观和功能性追求越来越高。因此，生产既舒适又具有一定功能性的织物是今后纺织品的发展趋势。
天然纤维，特别是纯棉面料，其舒适性和环保性是非常受消费者青睐的。纯棉纤维一般具有较好的吸湿性，但是在吸湿后就会贴身，使消费者感到不舒适。生产具有排汗快干功能，穿着舒适、干爽、手感好而且有良好外观和耐洗性能的织物势在必行。
目前市场上的吸湿排汗针织物一类是采用特殊的异形纤维来做，如具有导管的涤纶纤维，常见的有DUPONT的COOLMAX、台湾的COOLPLUS等。这些纤维是一些功能性纤维，具有独特的四沟槽设计，这些沟槽能够迅速的将汗水、湿气运送到织物的外层。因此具有良好的吸湿排汗性能，能够使人们感到干爽、舒适。但是采用这类功能性纤维做成的针织物有一定的缺点：该类纤维的原理是在纤维上设计出四沟槽，利用毛细管效应达到吸湿排汗的效果。一旦这些沟槽被堵塞，势必会影响到它的吸湿导汗性能。实际上这类纤维在染色时采用分散染料100～130℃染色，高温下纤维中的一些低聚物会游离出来而堵塞沟槽，导致吸湿导汗性能下降。另外，其价格也较为昂贵。另这类功能纤维是属于化纤，因此100％的这种功能纤维织成的织物与棉织物相比就没有棉的柔软手感。而由这种功能纤维与棉做成的混纺纱，则存在毛羽多，色牢度不好等缺点。做成的针织物普遍存在经多次家庭洗涤毛羽偏多，褪色较大，尤其是扁机领袖，洗后形变较大。且洗涤后吸湿排汗性能也有所下降。
而另一类也是采用化纤与棉混纺或混织来达到提高织物的吸湿和干燥的能力，一方面这类织物强调吸湿的能力，而没有注重排汗快干的性能，另一方面此类织物同样需要采用化纤材料。
发明目的
本发明的目的在于提供一种工艺独特，对棉纱进行不同功能预处理，编织双层纯棉织物，使纯棉织物兼舒适性与排汗快干功能于一体的特殊整理的双面异性纯棉快干织物的生产方法。
发明内容
本发明的目的可以通过以下措施来达到：一种特殊整理的双面异性纯棉快干织物的生产方法，其特征在于：先对纯棉棉纱进行亲水整理和疏水整理，得到亲水整理纱线和疏水整理纱线，然后将两种纱线通过编织，得到一面亲水、另一面疏水或者一层亲水、另一层疏水的双面异性织物。
本发明的目的可以通过以下措施来达到：亲水整理染纱工艺为煮练→染色→固色→浴中过软→烘干。浴中过软工序中采用亲水性柔软剂，亲水性柔软剂为脂肪胺及其衍生物类，有机硅类以及它们的复合体。采用的有机硅柔软剂为聚醚改性的环氧乙烷、环氧丙烷聚合的有机硅类柔软剂，其中用量为1～10g/l，处理时间为10～50分钟，处理温度为30～100℃。疏水整理染纱工艺为煮练→染色→固色→净洗→过疏水软油→烘干。净洗工序在50～100℃下进行，对应温度不同采用5～60分钟，采用普通净洗剂0.5～10g/l。过疏水软油工序中的温度为40～100℃，时间为5～60分钟，疏水软油用量为1～100g/l。疏水软油为羟甲基类、有机硅类和氟系，包括：羟甲基硬脂酸酰胺、醚化多羟基三聚氰胺、阳离子硅系乳液及含氢硅油乳液，带活性基团的聚二甲基硅氧烷和含氢硅油乳液，甲基含氢硅油乳液，有机氟乳液，含氟烷基丙烯酸酯共聚乳液，氧碳类碳氢类的协同混合物，含氟树脂。过完疏水软油直接脱水，烘干、烘干温度为100～180℃。编织方法包括罗纹织法、罗纹提花织法、Plated珠地织法，织出来的织物为双层结构，内面为疏水整理纯棉纱线，表面为亲水整理纯棉纱线。
本发明相比现有技术具有如下优点：
1、采用不同的整理方法对双层纯棉纱线进行整理，得到不同性质的纱线；内层为疏水纯棉纱线，具有良好的透湿性和透气性，外层为亲水纯绵纱线，吸水性极佳，和内层形成内外层差，给水传递提供动力，内层湿气可以很快渗透到外层，内层保持干爽，从而达到排汗快干功能。
2、织物采用100％纯棉面料，经过整理有很好的手感，具有优良的服用舒适性。
3、具有极好的耐洗性能，按照AATCC143洗涤方法可以耐10次以上家庭洗涤，也可以保持良好的性能，而且洗后的褪色也很少。
具体实施方式
本实用新型下面将结合实施例作进一步详述：
1.内外表面纱线处理：
a.亲水整理染纱工艺：
煮练→染色→固色→浴中过软(亲水性软油)→烘干；
1)煮练、染色、皂洗、固色按车间正常工艺；煮练要求充分；
2)浴中过软用亲水性柔软剂，如脂肪胺及其衍生物类、有机硅类以及它们的复合体，特别是采用亲水性的有机硅柔软剂，如聚醚改性的环氧乙烷、环氧丙烷聚合的有机硅类柔软剂，亲水性有机硅柔软剂具有较好的因为含有亲水性基团，可与水分子形成氢键结合，因此对水的润湿性能极佳。用量在1-10g/L，处理时间为10-50分钟，处理温度为30-100℃，同时为提高渗透性能，可添加聚氧乙烯醚的渗透剂1-5g/L。
3)注意不可沾污其他软油，清洗相关设备；
4)高频烘干温度80-150℃
b.疏水整理染纱工艺：
煮练→染色→固色→净洗→过疏水软油→烘干；
1)煮练、染色、皂洗、固色同正常工艺；
2)净洗在50-100℃下进行，对应温度不同采用5-60min；采用普通净洗剂0.5-10g/l
3)过疏水软油温度40-100℃，时间5-60min；疏水软油1-100g/l。
疏水软油主要有羟甲基类、有机硅类和氟系，包括：羟甲基硬脂酸酰胺、醚化多羟甲基三聚氰胺、阳离子硅系乳液及含氢硅油乳液，带活性基团的聚二甲基硅氧烷和含氢硅油乳液，甲基含氢硅油乳液，有机氟乳液，含氟烷基丙烯酸酯共聚乳液，氟碳类和碳氢类的协同混合物，含氟树脂等。
4)过完疏水软油直接脱水，高频烘干，烘干温度100-180℃。
2.特殊的针织工艺
采用特殊织法，双层结构，内面为疏水整理纱线，表面为亲水整理纱线。
3.定型整理
定型整理所用的是树脂整理剂、催化剂、渗透剂的混合液。
树脂整理剂用的是二羟甲基乙烯脲(DMEU)，二羟甲基二羟基乙烯脲(DMDHEU)，二羟甲基丙烯脲(DMPU)及二羟基甲基三嗪酮(DMT)，变性N-甲基二羟基乙基脲等类的化合物，及其改性物。
催化剂是一些镁盐、硝酸盐、氟硼锌盐等。渗透剂是聚氧乙烯醚类的化合物。
树脂的用量是20-150g/L，催化剂的用量为5-30g/L，渗透剂的用量为0.5-4g/L。
定型整理的温度是在140-180℃。
本发明的创新之处在于：
1.采用不同的整理方法对纱线进行整理，得到不同性质的纱线。
2.独特的纯棉双层结构，内层为疏水纯棉纱线，具有良好的透湿性和透气性，外层为吸水性极佳的纱线，和内层形成内外层差，给水传递提供动力，从而达到排汗快干的功能。
3.可以选用丝光、酶洗、树脂整理等工艺的方法保持织物的洗后外观，表面光洁，从而提高织物的外观效果和耐洗性能。
实施例一：80s/2双面罗纹织物
内外表面纱线处理：
a.亲水整理染纱工艺：
煮练→染色→固色→浴中过软(亲水性软油)→烘干；
1)煮练、染色、皂洗、固色按车间正常工艺；煮练要求充分；
2)有机硅类柔软剂Magnasoft HWS，用量在4g/l，处理时间为30分钟。
3)注意不可沾污其他软油，清洗相关设备，高频烘干，温度120℃；
b.疏水整理染纱工艺：
煮练→染色→固色→净洗→过疏水软油→烘干；
1)煮练、染色、皂洗、固色同正常工艺；
2)净洗在50℃下进行，净洗时间30min；净洗剂RF 8g/l。
3)过疏水软油温度90℃，时间8min；疏水软油羟甲基三嗪型PTG80g/l。
4)过完疏水软油直接脱水，高频烘干，温度150℃。
特殊的针织工艺
采用罗纹织法，双层结构，内面为疏水整理纱线，表面为亲水整理纱线。
定型整理
定型整理所用的是树脂整理剂、催化剂、渗透剂的混合液。
树脂整理剂用的是二羟甲基二羟基乙烯脲(DMDHEU)CP 120g/l；
催化剂MgCl2，用量24g/L；渗透剂PBN 4g/L。
定型整理的温度是在140℃。
实施例二：60s/2罗纹提花织物
内外表面纱线处理：
a.亲水整理染纱工艺：
煮练→染色→固色→浴中过软(亲水性软油)→烘干；
1)煮练、染色、皂洗、固色按车间正常工艺；煮练要求充分；
2)高能脂肪胺衍生物与有机硅复合体柔软剂NXC，用量在8g/l，处理时间为10分钟。
3)注意不可沾污其他软油，清洗相关设备，高频烘干温度100℃；
b.疏水整理染纱工艺：
煮练→染色→固色→净洗→过疏水软油→烘干；
1)煮练、染色、皂洗、固色同正常工艺；
2)净洗在90℃下进行，净洗时间8min；净洗剂RF 5g/l。
3)过疏水软油温度70℃，时间20min；疏水软油氟硅烷类Teflon20g/l。
4)过完疏水软油直接脱水，高频烘干，温度120℃。
特殊的针织工艺
采用罗纹提花织法，双层结构，内面为疏水整理纱线，表面为亲水整理纱线。
定型整理
定型整理所用的是树脂整理剂、催化剂、渗透剂的混合液。
树脂整理剂FR-Cl 80g/l；
催化剂MgCl2，用量16g/L；
渗透剂66-HK，2g/l
定型整理的温度是在180℃。
实施例三：32s/1Plated珠地织物
内外表面纱线处理：
a.亲水整理染纱工艺：
煮练→染色→固色→浴中过软(亲水性软油)→烘干；
1)煮练、染色、皂洗、固色按车间正常工艺；煮练要求充分；
2)有机硅柔软剂A15，用量在2g/l，处理时间为40分钟，温度50℃。
3)注意不可沾污其他软油，清洗相关设备，高频烘干140℃；
b.疏水整理染纱工艺：
煮练→染色→固色→净洗→过疏水软油→烘干；
1)煮练、染色、皂洗、固色同正常工艺；
2)净洗在70℃下进行，净洗时间15min；净洗剂RF 2g/l。
3)过疏水软油温度50℃，时间40min；疏水软油Nano-Tex公司纳米疏水剂5g/l。
4)过完疏水软油直接脱水，高频烘干，温度160℃。
特殊的针织工艺
采用Plated珠地织法，双层结构，内面为疏水整理纱线，表面为亲水整理纱线。
定型整理
定型整理所用的是树脂整理剂、催化剂、渗透剂的混合液。
树脂整理剂用的是二羟甲基二羟基乙烯脲(DMDHEU)CP 30g/l。
催化剂MgCl2，用量6g/L
定型整理的温度是在160℃。
一条可行的生产双面异性耐洗纯棉针织物的方法还可以包括如下可选步骤：(1)纱线丝光；(2)纱线煮练；(3)酶处理；(4)特殊染纱；(5)特殊织造；(6)布丝光；(7)定型后整；(8)制衣。选用丝光、酶洗、树酯整理等工艺的方法可保持织物的洗后外观表面光洁，从而提高织物的外观效果和耐洗性能。

Claims (10)

1、一种特殊整理的双面异性纯棉快干织物的生产方法，其特征在于：先对纯棉棉纱进行亲水整理和疏水整理，得到亲水整理纱线和疏水整理纱线，然后将两种纱线通过编织，得到一面亲水、另一面疏水或者一层亲水、另一层疏水的双面异性织物。
2、根据权利要求1所述的方法，其特征在于：亲水整理染纱工艺为煮练→染色→固色→浴中过软→烘干。
3、根据权利要求2所述的方法，其特征在于：浴中过软工序中采用亲水性柔软剂，亲水性柔软剂为脂肪胺及其衍生物类，有机硅类以及它们的复合体。
4、根据权利要求2或3所述的方法，其特征在于：采用的有机硅柔软剂为聚醚改性的环氧乙烷、环氧丙烷聚合的有机硅类柔软剂，其中用量为1～10g/l，处理时间为10～50分钟，处理温度为30～100℃。
5、根据权利要求1所述的方法，其特征在于：疏水整理染纱工艺为煮练→染色→固色→净洗→过疏水软油→烘干。
6、根据权利要求5所述的方法，其特征在于：净洗工序在50～100℃下进行，对应温度不同采用5～60分钟，采用普通净洗剂0.5～10g/l。
7、根据权利要求5所述的方法，其特征在于：过疏水软油的工序中的温度为40～100℃，时间为5～60分钟，疏水软油用量为1～100g/l。
8、根据权利要求7所述的方法，其特征在于：疏水软油为羟甲基类、有机硅类和氟系，包括：羟甲基硬脂酸酰胺、醚化多羟甲基三聚氰胺、阳离子硅系乳液及含氢硅油乳液，带活性基团的聚二甲基硅氧烷和含氢硅油乳液，甲基含氢硅油乳液，有机氟乳液，含氟烷基丙烯酸酯共聚乳液，氟碳类和碳氢类的协同混合物，含氟树脂。
9、根据权利要求5所述的方法，其特征在于：过完疏水软油直接脱水，烘干、烘干温度为100～180℃。
10、根据权利要求1所述的方法，其特征在于：编织方法包括罗纹织法、罗纹提花织法、Plated珠地织法，织出来的织物为双层结构，内面为疏水整理纯棉纱线，表面为亲水整理纯棉纱线。
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