CN106968046A - 一种凉感抗紫外棉针织面料 - Google Patents

一种凉感抗紫外棉针织面料 Download PDF

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CN106968046A
CN106968046A CN201710137044.2A CN201710137044A CN106968046A CN 106968046 A CN106968046 A CN 106968046A CN 201710137044 A CN201710137044 A CN 201710137044A CN 106968046 A CN106968046 A CN 106968046A
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cool feeling
cotton
uvioresistant
yarn
fabric
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殷金华
金雪
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JIANGSU GOLDEN MORNING KNITTING CO Ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种凉感抗紫外棉针织面料，其为采用捻度超过2200捻/m的冰棉纱与混纺纱交织而成双面珠地网眼结构，所述混纺纱为具有凉感和抗紫外功能的

Description

一种凉感抗紫外棉针织面料
【技术领域】
本发明涉及一种面料，特别是涉及一种凉感抗紫外棉针织面料。
【背景技术】
目前，关于凉爽纤维的素材因应环保的议题，在市场上大量推广。市场上凉感面料品种繁多，主要是化纤类凉感面料，如涤纶、尼龙等，原理基本是纤维通过物理或化学改性、或者将以上两种方式结合。物理改性主要为在化纤纺丝过程中添加纳米级矿石粉，如等。化学改性主要通过亲水改性，结合异形截面等物理改性，使面料具有迅速吸收汗液、扩散体热，加速汗水排散与降低体温之作用，持久保持织物凉爽与舒适之功能，如 等。物理和化学改进相结合的，如金辉的 远东的等。使用化纤类织物开发凉感功能的产品已较普遍，但由于棉类织物毛羽较多，热量不易散发，使得很难产生凉感功能，因此使用棉类织物开发凉感功能的产品相对较少，导致凉感类面料价格居高不下，应用范围和使用人群受到限制。
因此，有必要提供一种新的凉感抗紫外棉针织面料来解决上述问题。
【发明内容】
本发明的主要目的在于提供一种凉感抗紫外棉针织面料，具有速干、凉感、抗紫外多重功能，且经济性好。
本发明通过如下技术方案实现上述目的：一种凉感抗紫外棉针织面料，其为采用捻度超过2200捻/m的冰棉纱与混纺纱交织而成双面珠地网眼结构，所述混纺纱为具有凉感和抗紫外功能的涤纶与亚麻采用环锭纺方式形成的混纺纱，所述冰棉纱在编织成坯布前经过两次蒸洗过程，所述冰棉纱与所述混纺纱在定型过程中添加有凉感助剂，所述冰棉纱采用S捻与Z捻的搭配方式来平衡扭力。
进一步的，所述涤纶克重为18.45tex，所述混纺纱中的所述涤纶与所述亚麻的混纺比为80/20。
进一步的，所述涤纶采用的是日本东丽TORAY公司生产的涤纶。
进一步的，所述冰棉纱的克重16.9tex，所述冰棉纱采用的是瑞士SPOERRY公司生产的ICE纱线。
进一步的，所述棉针织面料经过以下加工方法制造而成，
1)编织工艺，其包括设计组织结构、织针排列方式、三角排列图、编织图，确定穿纱方式，所述蒸洗，最后编织成坯布；
2)染整工艺，其包括前处理、染色以及定型。
进一步的，在所述编织工艺中，所述棉针织面料中贴近皮肤面的一面为所述冰棉纱。
进一步的，在所述前处理过程中，将所述坯布分别依次经过氧漂、一次酸洗以及水洗工艺处理。
进一步的，在所述染色过程中，将经过所述前处理后的坯布依次进行酵素洗工艺和二次酸洗工艺。
进一步的，所述酵素洗工艺包括染涤工序和染棉工序；所述染涤工序使用的溶液中含有分散染料2.0％(owf)、分散均染剂1.0g/L以及Na2SO43.0g/L；所述染棉工序中使用的溶液中含有冰醋酸(85％)0.2g/L、纤柔酶1.0g/L、活性染料2.2％(owf)、Na2SO450g/L、Na2CO315g/L，控制浴比为1:10，温度为60℃，酵素洗时间为30min；整个染色过程中，温度上升速率控制在1.0℃/min以下。
进一步的，所述凉感助剂为冰感硅油柔软剂或者木糖醇微胶囊。
与现有技术相比，本发明一种凉感抗紫外棉针织面料及其控制方法的有益效果在于：在原料选择上、加工工艺以及编织结构上开发了新的凉感抗紫外棉织类面料，是一款速干、凉感、抗紫外的多功能于一体的功能性面料；具体的，
1)在原料上，一方面采用含涤纶的混纺纱保证了织物功能持久、耐水洗和耐熨烫，提高了夏季户外运动装的穿着耐久性，另一方面结合冰棉纱，进一步的提高了面料的凉感功能，且综合了冰棉纱的强捻度和涤纶的高柔软度，提高了面料的肌肤贴附感；
2)在加工工艺上，在编织成坯布前，将冰棉纱经过两次蒸洗，防止了编织过程中退捻发生，保证了冰棉纱的强捻度，进而保证了面料的凉感功能；采用酵素洗工艺，减少了面料布面毛羽，提高了光洁度；将涤纶染色和棉纤维染色分开进行，使得面料色泽更亮，色度更高且色度耐持久性强；
3)将两种纱线设计成双珠地网眼结构，然后在定型中加入冰感的柔软剂，提高了面料的穿着舒适感。
【具体实施方式】
实施例：
本实施例为凉感抗紫外棉针织面料，其为采用捻度超过2200捻/m的冰棉纱与混纺纱交织而成双面珠地网眼结构，所述混纺纱为具有凉感和抗紫外功能的涤纶与亚麻采用环锭纺方式形成的混纺纱，所述棉针织面料中的所述冰棉纱采用S捻与Z捻的搭配方式来平衡扭力。
所述涤纶克重为18.45tex，所述涤纶与所述亚麻的混纺比为80/20，所述冰棉纱的克重16.9tex。所述涤纶是日本东丽TORAY公司生产的涤纶，所述冰棉纱是瑞士SPOERRY公司生产的纱线。
所述冰棉纱的原理为采取精选长绒棉花，通过特殊纺纱方式以较高的捻度进行加捻，让棉纱光滑少毛羽，同时使纱线或布料的棉纱里面没有空气包形成的机会，不会产生茸茸的温暖感。
所述涤纶的原料纤维截面为扁平多叶状，比普通产品约四倍的速度快速吸水，扩散性提高约30％。同时涤纶是一种在原有的吸水扩散功能基础上又综合追求各种适合夏季舒爽功能的素材，具有各种应对高温季节、强烈阳光的特性，拥有柔软手感，即使在炎热的季节也能让穿着者感到凉爽舒适的功能性涤纶纤维。纤维的特点有吸湿速干、防透/防紫外线、持续凉爽性、手感柔软。
所述棉针织面料经过以下加工方法制造而成：
1)编织工艺，其包括以下步骤：
A设计组织结构：为使面料具有舒适性和凉感功能，并降低成本，选用双面组织结构，其中贴近皮肤面的为所述冰棉纱；
B设计织针排列方式；
C设计三角排列图；
D设计编织图；
E确定穿纱方式；
F蒸洗：由于所述冰棉纱为高捻纱，为了防止编织过程中出现退捻问题，将所述冰棉纱先蒸洗两次。
G编织成布：选用双面圆纬机将所述冰棉纱与含涤纶的所述混纺纱编织成坯布，所述双面圆纬机的针数为28针。
2)染整工艺：在染整过程中采用丝光处理或一般的酵素洗加工，使布面更光洁、凉感效果更佳，同时在染缸内适当添加亲水性柔软剂，可提高穿着舒适性，具体的包括以下步骤：
H前处理：将所述坯布分别依次经过氧漂、一次酸洗以及水洗工艺处理，所述氧漂工艺处理中使用的氧漂溶液中含有精炼剂2.5g/L、精炼乳化剂1.0g/L、烧碱4.5g/L、双氧水H2O24g/L、去油纱剂0.6g/L，控制浴比为1:10，温度为95℃，漂洗时间为40min；所述一次酸洗工艺使用的酸洗溶液中含有冰醋酸(85％)0.5g/L，控制浴比为1:10，温度为60℃，酸洗时间为10min；所述水洗工艺用的水洗溶液中含有除氧酶0.1g/L，控制浴比为1:10，温度为30℃，水洗时间为20min。
I染色：由于丝光处理工艺价格较高，且对于克重较轻的布种在丝光过程中易受力不均造成左中右克重不一，因此，在染色工艺中，本实施例采用酵素洗工艺，将经过前处理后的所述坯布依次进行酵素洗工艺和二次酸洗工艺，所述酵素洗工艺包括染涤工序和染棉工序；所述酵素洗工艺中染涤工序使用的溶液中含有分散染料2.0％(owf)、分散均染剂1.0g/L以及Na2SO43.0g/L。所述染棉工序中使用的溶液中含有冰醋酸(85％)0.2g/L、纤柔酶1.0g/L、活性染料2.2％(owf)、Na2SO450g/L、Na2CO315g/L，控制浴比为1:10，温度为60℃，酵素洗时间为30min；所述二次酸洗工艺中使用的酸洗溶液中含有冰醋酸(85％)0.5g/L，控制浴比为1:10，温度为25℃，酸洗时间为10min。整个染色过程中，温度上升速率控制在1.0℃/min以下，以保证面料的上色率和匀染性，同时为了保证面料色牢度，碱类固色剂应分多批加入，并加强水洗，减少浮色。
J定型：由于所述冰棉纱捻度较高，织物手感偏硬，因此为了保证面料穿着舒适性，在定型过程中加入凉感助剂，如冰感硅油柔软剂或者木糖醇微胶囊，一方面增加面料的凉感和柔性，克服了强捻纱的偏硬手感；另一方面又保证了面料的吸湿性，定型温度为140℃，速度为20m/min。
为了进一步验证本实施例凉感抗紫外棉针织面料的性能优势，对本实施例的面料进行了性能检测，其基本性能如表1-4所示。
本实施例凉感抗紫外棉针织面料的基本性能如表1所示。
表1凉感抗紫外棉针织面料的基本性能
注：抗起毛起球测试采用GB/T4802.1-2008(圆轨迹法)。
本实施例凉感抗紫外棉针织面料的吸湿速干性能如表2所示。
表2吸湿速干性能
性能 单位 标准值 样品实测值 测试标准
芯吸高度 mm >100 130 FZ/T01071-2008
滴水扩散时间 S <3 1.4 GB/T21655.1-2008
蒸发速率 --- >0.18 0.27 GB/T21655.1-2008
目前纺织品的抗紫外能力测试主要是抗紫外线防护指数UPF(UltravioletProtection Factor)，其UPF是一种倍数观念，例如人受阳光照射，皮肤因而产生红斑的时间如果是10min，穿上UPF20的衣服，产生红斑的时间可以延长为20倍，达200min。
本实施例凉感抗紫外棉针织面料的抗紫外线功能试验采用GB/T 18830-2009测试标准，测试结果见表3所示。
表3抗紫外线测试结果
性能 单位 标准值 样品实测值
T(紫外A)平均值 ％ <5 1.11
UPF值 --- >40 >50
本实施例凉感抗紫外棉针织面料(记作面料1)与对比样(记作面料2)就凉感性能测试(测试温度34.8±0.3℃，RH27±3％)的测试结果见表4所示。
表4凉感测试面料温度变化
本实施例凉感抗紫外棉针织面料，吸湿速干性测试：芯吸高度130mm(FZ/T 01071-2008)、滴水扩散时间1.4S和蒸发速率0.27(GB/T21655.1-2008)吸湿速干功能佳，满足了消费者夏季吸汗速干的功能需求。同时该面料经测试抗紫外：T(UVA)平均值1.11，UPF值>50(GB/T 18830-2009)抗UV效果佳，且凉感测试面料与同规格常规面料比，凉感温差可达2-3℃，满足了抗紫外线、凉感的穿着舒适性。通过对多种功能的综合运用，给夏季户外运动者带来了舒爽的穿着体验。
本实施例凉感抗紫外棉针织面料在原料选择上、加工工艺以及编织结构上开发了新的凉感抗紫外棉织类面料，是一款速干、凉感、抗紫外的多功能于一体的功能性面料；具体的，
1)在原料上，一方面采用涤纶保证了织物功能持久、耐水洗和耐熨烫，提高了夏季户外运动装的穿着耐久性，另一方面结合冰棉纱，进一步的提高了面料的凉感功能，且综合了冰棉纱的强捻度和涤纶的高柔软度，提高了面料的肌肤贴附感；
2)在加工工艺上，在编织成坯布前，将冰棉纱经过两次蒸洗，防止了编织过程中退捻发生，保证了冰棉纱的强捻度，进而保证了面料的凉感功能；采用酵素洗工艺，减少了面料布面毛羽，提高了光洁度；将涤纶染色和棉纤维染色分开进行，使得面料色泽更亮，色度更高且色度耐持久性强；
3)将两种纱线设计成双珠地网眼结构，然后在定型中加入冰感的柔软剂，提高了面料的穿着舒适感。
以上所述的仅是本发明的一些实施方式。对于本领域的普通技术人员来说，在不脱离本发明创造构思的前提下，还可以做出若干变形和改进，这些都属于本发明的保护范围。

Claims (10)

1.一种凉感抗紫外棉针织面料，其特征在于：其为采用捻度超过2200捻/m的冰棉纱与混纺纱交织而成双面珠地网眼结构，所述混纺纱为具有凉感和抗紫外功能的涤纶与亚麻采用环锭纺方式形成的混纺纱，所述冰棉纱在编织成坯布前经过两次蒸洗过程，所述冰棉纱与所述混纺纱在定型过程中添加有凉感助剂，所述冰棉纱采用S捻与Z捻的搭配方式来平衡扭力。
2.如权利要求1所述的凉感抗紫外棉针织面料，其特征在于：所述涤纶克重为18.45tex，所述混纺纱中的所述涤纶与所述亚麻的混纺比为80/20。
3.如权利要求1所述的凉感抗紫外棉针织面料，其特征在于：所述涤纶采用的是日本东丽TORAY公司生产的涤纶。
4.如权利要求1所述的凉感抗紫外棉针织面料，其特征在于：所述冰棉纱的克重16.9tex，所述冰棉纱采用的是瑞士SPOERRY公司生产的ICE纱线。
5.如权利要求1所述的凉感抗紫外棉针织面料，其特征在于：所述棉针织面料经过以下加工方法制造而成，
1)编织工艺，其包括设计组织结构、织针排列方式、三角排列图、编织图，确定穿纱方式，所述蒸洗，最后编织成坯布；
2)染整工艺，其包括前处理、染色以及定型。
6.如权利要求5所述的凉感抗紫外棉针织面料，其特征在于：在所述编织工艺中，所述棉针织面料中贴近皮肤面的一面为所述冰棉纱。
7.如权利要求5所述的凉感抗紫外棉针织面料，其特征在于：在所述前处理过程中，将所述坯布分别依次经过氧漂、一次酸洗以及水洗工艺处理。
8.如权利要求7所述的凉感抗紫外棉针织面料，其特征在于：在所述染色过程中，将经过所述前处理后的坯布依次进行酵素洗工艺和二次酸洗工艺。
9.如权利要求8所述的凉感抗紫外棉针织面料，其特征在于：所述酵素洗工艺包括染涤工序和染棉工序；所述染涤工序使用的溶液中含有分散染料2.0％(owf)、分散均染剂1.0g/L以及Na2SO4 3.0g/L；所述染棉工序中使用的溶液中含有冰醋酸(85％)0.2g/L、纤柔酶1.0g/L、活性染料2.2％(owf)、Na2SO4 50g/L、Na2CO3 15g/L，控制浴比为1:10，温度为60℃，酵素洗时间为30min；整个染色过程中，温度上升速率控制在1.0℃/min以下。
10.如权利要求1所述的凉感抗紫外棉针织面料，其特征在于：所述凉感助剂为冰感硅油柔软剂或者木糖醇微胶囊。
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CN112210877A (zh) * 2020-09-22 2021-01-12 上海嘉乐股份有限公司 一种持久抗菌性面料及其制造方法
CN115287812A (zh) * 2022-06-06 2022-11-04 江苏泰慕士针纺科技股份有限公司 一种高性能吸湿速干柔软仿麻棉针织面料的生产工艺

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