CN111388340A - Stable astaxanthin essence and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Stable astaxanthin essence and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN111388340A CN111388340A CN202010285515.6A CN202010285515A CN111388340A CN 111388340 A CN111388340 A CN 111388340A CN 202010285515 A CN202010285515 A CN 202010285515A CN 111388340 A CN111388340 A CN 111388340A
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- astaxanthin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
- A61K8/553—Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/678—Tocopherol, i.e. vitamin E
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/805—Corresponding aspects not provided for by any of codes A61K2800/81 - A61K2800/95
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Abstract
The invention discloses a stable astaxanthin essence and a preparation method thereof, and relates to the technical field of cosmetics. The astaxanthin essence comprises the following components in percentage by mass: polyol: 25-60%; efficacy composition: 0.5-20%; oil phase: 0.5-10%; lecithin: 0.1-15%; water, the balance; the efficacy composition comprises astaxanthin. The invention also provides a corresponding preparation method, which is simpler in process than the microcapsule essence, and is more energy-saving and more economical. The astaxanthin essence of the invention contains 5% of astaxanthin, and the product is stable and has small color change when tested at 45 ℃ for 6 months. The invention not only has the stability effect on astaxanthin of natural sources, but also can effectively improve the stability of artificially synthesized unesterified astaxanthin.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to stable astaxanthin essence and a preparation method thereof.
Background
The last batch runs for three 90, the hairline begins to be concerned after 00, and the aging problem of the population is also obviously reflected in the skin care market: the keywords of resisting premature senility, resisting aging, removing wrinkles and the like become the hot searching words of the e-commerce platform, and products with the effects are declared to be increased day by day.
Astaxanthin is one of the strongest natural antioxidants in the world, has six thousand times of the capacity of scavenging free radicals compared with vitamin c, and can protect skin health and resist aging from inside to outside. But the astaxanthin is added into the essence in a small amount, and the main reason is that the astaxanthin is poor in stability, and in addition, the astaxanthin has dark color and unstable color, so that the astaxanthin is difficult to apply to products.
The patent 201910592258.8 application discloses a natural astaxanthin-containing essence prepared by adding free astaxanthin nano-microemulsion into esterified astaxanthin microcapsule system. The astaxanthin can rapidly permeate through the skin and be absorbed and utilized by skin tissues, and the antioxidant and repairing effects are exerted in the skin; meanwhile, the astaxanthin is more stable in component and has a slow release effect so as to enhance the skin care and health care effects, and particularly, the color of the astaxanthin can be reduced so as to prevent the large-area red appearance on the surface of the skin from influencing the beauty. However, the astaxanthin added in the patent is low in dosage and limited in antioxidant effect, and when the astaxanthin is added in high content, the color of the product is not stable; and the microcapsule system has complex process and high production cost.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to solve the technical problem that the unstable antioxidation is limited in a cosmetic system when the content of astaxanthin is high.
In order to solve the above problems, the present invention proposes the following technical solutions:
in a first aspect, the invention provides a stable astaxanthin essence which comprises the following components in percentage by mass:
polyol: 25-60%;
efficacy composition: 0.5-20%;
oil phase: 0.5-10%;
lecithin: 0.1-15%;
water, the balance;
the efficacy composition comprises astaxanthin.
The further technical proposal is that the efficacy composition comprises one or a mixture of a plurality of astaxanthin, phytosterol and-tocopherol.
The further technical scheme is that the content of the astaxanthin is 0.3-5%.
The further technical scheme is that the astaxanthin is artificially synthesized astaxanthin or natural astaxanthin.
The further technical proposal is that the polyalcohol is one or a mixture of more of glycerol, dipropylene glycol, butanediol and dipropylene glycol.
The further technical proposal is that the oil phase is one or a mixture of more of octyl dodecanol myristate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate and diisopropyl sebacate.
The further technical scheme is that the lecithin is hydrogenated lecithin.
The further technical scheme is that the electrolyte solution also comprises an auxiliary agent, wherein the auxiliary agent is one or a combination of more of a thickening agent, essence, a pigment, a preservative and an active substance containing electrolyte.
The addition agent is 0.1-30% by mass.
In a second aspect, the present invention provides a method for preparing a stable astaxanthin serum, comprising the steps of:
s1, premixing the polyalcohol, lecithin and the efficacy composition according to the proportion, and heating to 60-80 ℃ to obtain an alcohol phase;
s2, heating the oil phase to 60-80 ℃, and adding the alcohol phase to form uniform phospholipid-coated oil emulsion;
s3, adding water with the temperature of 60-80 ℃ into the emulsion, homogenizing and emulsifying for 5-10 min;
s4, cooling the homogenized emulsion obtained in the step S3 to 48-60 ℃, adding an auxiliary agent, homogenizing the system, and cooling to room temperature to obtain the stable astaxanthin essence.
The further technical scheme is that in the step S1, the specific operation of premixing the polyol, the lecithin and the efficacy composition is as follows:
adding the effective composition into polyalcohol and lecithin at 25-35 deg.C, and mixing to complete the premixing step.
Compared with the prior art, the invention can achieve the following technical effects:
the method for preparing the stable astaxanthin essence provided by the invention utilizes a special emulsification process: the method comprises the steps of dispersing lecithin and astaxanthin into polyhydric alcohol, adding grease, forming a uniform phase of the oil-in-phospholipid emulsion, adding an aqueous phase without electrolyte for emulsification and thickening, and finally adding an auxiliary agent containing an electrolyte active substance to form the stable oil-in-water emulsion with fine oil drop particle size. The process can effectively improve the stability of natural astaxanthin, greatly improve the stability of synthetic astaxanthin, add up to 5 percent of astaxanthin to achieve the product stability, and relieve the condition that the astaxanthin is easy to discolor.
The stable astaxanthin essence provided by the invention contains astaxanthin which has an antioxidant effect, the phospholipid is highly compatible with skin cell membranes, the release and permeation of active substances such as astaxanthin and the like from phospholipid bilayers are facilitated, and the astaxanthin in the essence can be improved by matching with other components, so that the astaxanthin is more easily absorbed by the skin, and the synergistic antioxidant effect is achieved.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the examples will be clearly and completely described below. It is apparent that the embodiments to be described below are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all of them. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
It will be understood that the terms "comprises" and/or "comprising," when used in this specification and the appended claims, specify the presence of stated features, integers, steps, operations, elements, and/or components, but do not preclude the presence or addition of one or more other features, integers, steps, operations, elements, components, and/or groups thereof.
It is also to be understood that the terminology used in the description of the embodiments of the invention herein is for the purpose of describing particular embodiments only and is not intended to be limiting of the embodiments of the invention. As used in the description of embodiments of the present invention and the appended claims, the singular forms "a," "an," and "the" are intended to include the plural forms as well, unless the context clearly indicates otherwise.
Examples 1 to 3
The embodiment of the invention provides a stable astaxanthin essence, and the dosage (mass percentage) of each component in the embodiment is shown in table 1.
Table 1:
| components | Example 1 | Example 2 | Example 3 |
| Water (W) | Balance of | Balance of | Balance of |
| Glycerol | 15 | 20 | 5 |
| Dipropylene glycol | 10 | 15 | 10 |
| Butanediol | 20 | 15 | 10 |
| Astaxanthin | 2 | 5 | 0.3 |
| Plant sterol | 6 | 8 | 0.1 |
| δ -tocopherol (vitamin E) | 2 | 6 | 0.1 |
| Octyl dodecanol myristate | 2 | 5 | 0.2 |
| Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate | 2 | 5 | 0.2 |
| Sebacic acid diisopropyl ester | 2 | 5 | 0.2 |
| Hydrogenated lecithin | 5 | 10 | 0.15 |
Comparative example 1 differs from example 1 in that the efficacy component/alcohol/and oil phase are added separately to the reaction vessel during the formulation process, without two emulsification steps.
Comparative example 2 differs from example 1 in that the alcohol is present in the same proportion and in different amounts, with 25% alcohol being added.
Comparative example 3 differs from comparative example 1 in that no phytosterols are added to the efficacy composition.
Comparative example 4 differs from comparative example 1 in that no tocopherol is added to the efficacy composition.
The preparation method of the above example is as follows:
1/adding polyalcohol into a main reaction pot, then adding hydrogenated lecithin and astaxanthin, fully stirring for 10min, and heating to 70-75 ℃;
2/oil phase is stirred and heated to 70 ℃, alcohol phase is added, stirring is carried out for 20min, after uniform emulsion of phospholipid-coated oil is formed, water phase (without electrolyte) with 70 ℃ is added, and homogeneous emulsification is carried out for 5-10 min;
3/cooling to 50 ℃, adding a water-soluble polymer thickener, and adding an electrolyte active substance after the system is uniform;
and 4/cooling to room temperature, and discharging after sampling and detecting are qualified.
Compared with the microcapsule essence, the method of the invention is simpler in process, more energy-saving and more economical.
The astaxanthin essence of the invention contains 5% of astaxanthin, and the product is stable and has small color change when tested at 45 ℃ for 6 months.
The invention not only has the stability effect on astaxanthin of natural sources, but also can effectively improve the stability of artificially synthesized unesterified astaxanthin.
1. Stability test
The essences prepared in the examples and the comparative examples are subjected to high-low temperature/light/cold-heat cycle tests, and the change of the astaxanthin content retention rate in the product and the color, smell, appearance and the like of the product under various test conditions are monitored to comprehensively evaluate the stability of the product, and the results are shown in table 2.
Table 2 shows the results of the stability test
Wherein, the qualified standard of the related odor is as follows: no peculiar smell exists; the qualified standard of the appearance is no delamination/no precipitation; the qualified standard of the emulsified particle size is as follows: 100nm, > 90%.
As can be seen from Table 2, through 6 stability tests, the quality indexes of the examples 1-3 all meet the requirements, the emulsion particle size of the comparative example 1 after the process is replaced is slowly out of range, aggregation and delamination occur, and the precipitated astaxanthin is slowly faded and loses efficacy; comparative example 2 the emulsified particle size is changed after the proportion of alcohol is changed, aggregation and stratification also occur, the separated astaxanthin slowly fades and loses efficacy, the whole process is slightly slower than that of comparative example 1, namely, the product is still relatively stable by adopting the production process of the invention; comparative example 3 no phytosterols were added, the appearance and particle size change was normal, the astaxanthin faded slowly and became ineffective; comparative example 4 no tocopherol was added, the appearance and particle size change was normal, the odor was slightly abnormal, and the astaxanthin faded slowly and became ineffective.
2. Oxidation resistance test
The evaluation of the antioxidant effect is equivalent to the evaluation of the ability of a sample to scavenge free radicals, and Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) are one-electron reduction products of oxygen in vivo, including superoxide anion (O2-), hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), hydroxyl free radical (. OH), nitric oxide and the like. We therefore chose to measure ROS to evaluate the antioxidant capacity of the sample. The samples were tested for antioxidant capacity by a 6 month stability test.
The results of the experiment are shown in table 3 below:
table 3 shows the antioxidant test results of the products
As can be seen from table 3, the test samples all exhibited the results of free radical ROS after 10-fold dilution. After the samples in the examples 1, 2 and 3 are diluted by 10 times, the ROS inhibiting capacity is stronger than that of a positive control, the effects of the samples in the examples 1 and 2 are higher than those of other test samples, and the effects of the samples are equivalent; example 3 is weaker than examples 1 and 2, and comparative examples 3 and 4 are comparable to the positive control in capacity; comparative examples 1 and 2 were weaker than the positive control, and comparative example 1 was the weakest in the ability to inhibit ROS in the 7 samples.
The present invention provides a stable astaxanthin essence and a preparation method thereof, which are only preferred embodiments of the present invention, but not limiting the present invention in any way, and therefore, any simple modification, equivalent change and modification of the above embodiments according to the technical essence of the present invention are within the scope of the technical solution of the present invention, unless departing from the technical solution of the present invention.
In the above embodiments, the descriptions of the respective embodiments have respective emphasis, and for parts that are not described in detail in a certain embodiment, reference may be made to related descriptions of other embodiments.
While the invention has been described with reference to specific embodiments thereof, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that various changes in form and details may be made therein without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as defined by the appended claims. Therefore, the protection scope of the present invention shall be subject to the protection scope of the claims.
Claims (10)
1. The stable astaxanthin essence is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass:
polyol: 25-60%;
efficacy composition: 0.5-20%;
oil phase: 0.5-10%;
lecithin: 0.1-15%;
water, the balance;
the efficacy composition comprises astaxanthin.
2. The stabilized astaxanthin serum of claim 1, wherein the efficacy composition comprises one or a mixture of astaxanthin, phytosterols, and-tocopherol.
3. The stabilized astaxanthin serum according to claim 2, characterized in that the astaxanthin content is comprised between 0.3 and 5%.
4. The stabilized astaxanthin serum according to claim 3, wherein the astaxanthin is a synthetic astaxanthin or a natural astaxanthin.
5. The stabilized astaxanthin serum of claim 1, wherein the polyhydric alcohol is selected from the group consisting of glycerol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
6. The stabilized astaxanthin serum of claim 1, wherein the oil phase is selected from one or a mixture of octyldodecanol myristate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate.
7. The stabilized astaxanthin serum of claim 1, wherein the lecithin is hydrogenated lecithin.
8. The stabilized astaxanthin serum of claim 1, further comprising an adjuvant selected from the group consisting of thickeners, electrolyte-containing actives, fragrances, pigments, preservatives, and combinations thereof.
9. The method of preparing a stabilized astaxanthin serum as claimed in claim 8, comprising the steps of:
s1, premixing the polyalcohol, lecithin and the efficacy composition according to the proportion, and heating to 60-80 ℃ to obtain an alcohol phase;
s2, heating the oil phase to 60-80 ℃, and adding the alcohol phase to form uniform phospholipid-coated oil emulsion;
s3, adding water with the temperature of 60-80 ℃ into the emulsion, homogenizing and emulsifying for 5-10 min;
s4, cooling the homogenized emulsion obtained in the step S3 to 48-60 ℃, adding an auxiliary agent, homogenizing the system, and cooling to room temperature to obtain the stable astaxanthin essence.
10. The method of preparing an astaxanthin serum as claimed in claim 9, wherein the pre-mixing of the polyol, lecithin and efficacy composition in step S1 is carried out as follows:
adding the effective composition into the mixture of polyalcohol and lecithin at 25-35 deg.C, and mixing to complete the premixing step.
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Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN116370324A (en) * | 2023-06-06 | 2023-07-04 | 成都普什制药有限公司 | Anti-oxidation essence containing hyaluronic acid and preparation method thereof |
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Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN116370324A (en) * | 2023-06-06 | 2023-07-04 | 成都普什制药有限公司 | Anti-oxidation essence containing hyaluronic acid and preparation method thereof |
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