CN115645300B - Transparent cosmetic composition with stable vitamin C content and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention discloses a transparent cosmetic composition with stable vitamin C content, which comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 5.0 to 25.0 percent of vitamin C, 0.5 to 3.0 percent of skin conditioning agent, 0.1 to 0.6 percent of pH regulator, 0.05 to 0.1 percent of chelating agent, 4.5 to 10.0 percent of humectant, 7.0 to 17.0 percent of emollient, 1.0 to 3.0 percent of antioxidant, 0.4 to 0.6 percent of preservative and the balance of solvent. The invention also discloses a preparation method of the transparent cosmetic composition with stable vitamin C content. The composition solves the problems of poor stability and poor skin feel of the prior cosmetics, and more effectively plays the beauty effects of oxidation resistance, whitening and brightening of the vitamin C.

Description

Transparent cosmetic composition with stable vitamin C content and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a transparent cosmetic composition with stable vitamin C content, and a preparation method of the transparent cosmetic composition.

Background

The whitening effect of vitamin C is very superior, but the stability is poor due to the fact that two hydroxyl groups on double bonds in the molecular structure of the vitamin C are easy to become carbonyl groups, and the vitamin C is easily influenced by external environments, such as transition metal ions cu2+, fe3+, illumination, pH, temperature, high-concentration oxygen and the like. Vitamin C is extremely unstable in air and water, is easily oxidized to form deoxidized ascorbic acid, and increases in oxidation speed with increasing temperature, and changes from colorless to yellow until brown with increasing oxidation degree.

The stability problem of vitamin C is the greatest resistance to its use in cosmetics, but it is still a difficult task for the cosmetic market as a traditional whitening agent with high efficacy and high safety index. Therefore, there has been extensive research on how to obtain a cosmetically acceptable system for effectively stabilizing vitamin C. The prior methods for stabilizing vitamin C mainly comprise the following steps: 1. vitamin C derivatives obtained by a radical protection method, such as AA2G, sodium/magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and the like, are added into the product formula; 2. vitamin C liposome protected by wrapping technology is added into the product formula; 3. dispersing vitamin C in an anhydrous system to stabilize vitamin C by preventing contact with water and oxygen; 4. the product package adopts a separated warehouse packing material or freeze-dried dosage form with separated powder and liquid, and the vitamin C is independently stored in a form without contacting with water and oxygen, and is uniformly mixed when in use.

Chinese patent cosmetic composition with high vitamin C content, and its preparation method and application (publication No. CN112587438A, publication day: 2021, 4 months and 2 days) comprise the following components: 20-25 parts of vitamin C, 0.5-4 parts of nonionic surfactant, 0.5-4 parts of oily component, 0.01-4 parts of water-soluble polymer, 50-80 parts of water phase component and 0.01-5 parts of other active substances; wherein the water phase component contains 45-55 parts of polyol, the polyol is used as a main solvent for dissolving vitamin C, and the water-soluble polymer plays a suspending role, so that the high-concentration vitamin C is dispersed in the water phase system after being dissolved in the polyol; the preparation method comprises mixing vitamin C, water-soluble polymer and water phase component, heating to 80-90deg.C for dissolving, adding oily component, nonionic surfactant and other active substances, and stirring to obtain transparent cosmetic composition. Although the formula of the system is more stable, the vitamin C is not easy to separate out, the polyol with higher content is thick and heavy like an oil plate when being used, the heating risk exists in the use process, and the stability of the vitamin C in the product is damaged to a certain extent by the preparation method that the vitamin C is dissolved at the high temperature of 80-90 ℃ so that the vitamin C accelerates the oxidation, and the appearance of the final product turns yellow.

Disclosure of Invention

The first object of the present invention is to provide a transparent cosmetic composition having a stable vitamin C content, which solves the problems of poor vitamin C stability and poor skin feel in use in the existing cosmetics.

A second object of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing the transparent cosmetic composition.

The first technical scheme adopted by the invention is as follows: the transparent cosmetic composition with stable vitamin C content comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 5.0 to 25.0 percent of vitamin C, 0.5 to 3.0 percent of skin conditioning agent, 0.1 to 0.6 percent of pH regulator, 0.05 to 0.1 percent of chelating agent, 4.5 to 10.0 percent of humectant, 7.0 to 17.0 percent of emollient, 1.0 to 3.0 percent of antioxidant, 0.4 to 0.6 percent of preservative and the balance of solvent.

The first technical scheme adopted by the invention is characterized in that: preferably, the transparent cosmetic composition with stable vitamin C content comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 10.0 to 20.0 percent of vitamin C, 1.0 to 1.5 percent of skin conditioning agent, 0.2 to 0.4 percent of pH regulator, 0.05 to 0.1 percent of chelating agent, 8 to 10.0 percent of humectant, 12.0 to 15.0 percent of emollient, 1.5 to 2.0 percent of antioxidant, 0.4 to 0.5 percent of preservative and the balance of solvent.

Preferably, the solvent is a fermentation product filtrate of Saccharomyces cerevisiae.

Preferably, the skin conditioning agent is a mixture of superoxide dismutase, SOD, and glutathione, GSH.

Preferably, the pH adjustor is at least one of sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

Preferably, the chelating agent is disodium EDTA or tetrasodium EDTA.

Preferably, the humectant is a mixture of at least two of glycerin, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, sodium PCA, trehalose, or betaine.

Preferably, the emollient is a mixture of one of C13-16 isoparaffin or octyl polymethylsiloxane and at least two of rosemary leaf oil, linseed oil or mastic extract.

Preferably, the antioxidant is at least one of tocopherol and tocopheryl acetate; the preservative is a mixture of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerol.

The second technical scheme adopted by the invention is as follows: the preparation method of the transparent cosmetic composition with stable vitamin C content is specifically implemented by the following steps:

step one, adding vitamin C, a skin conditioner, a pH regulator, a chelating agent, a humectant and a preservative into a solvent according to a proportion, and stirring at room temperature to fully dissolve to prepare a transparent water phase; stirring and fully dissolving an emollient and an antioxidant at room temperature to prepare a transparent oil phase;

and step two, pouring the oil phase into the water phase to prepare the cosmetic composition with stable vitamin C content, which is transparent in appearance and is oily and water-draining.

The beneficial effects of the invention are as follows:

1. The invention provides a transparent cosmetic composition with high vitamin C content and stable vitamin C content, which is characterized in that the vitamin C is effectively stabilized by combining a physical way and a chemical way, the bioavailability of the vitamin C is improved, the anti-oxidation, whitening and brightening cosmetic effects of the vitamin C are more effectively exerted, in addition, the composition has a transparent appearance, and the composition has clear and non-burdened skin feel when being used, can be stored at normal temperature, and prolongs the shelf life of the vitamin C cosmetic.

2. The cosmetic composition provided by the invention is composed of an upper transparent oil layer and a lower transparent water layer, wherein the upper oil layer is covered on the lower water layer, so that vitamin C in the lower water layer is effectively prevented from contacting oxygen in the air, and the oxidation rate of the vitamin C is relieved by stabilizing the vitamin C through a physical way.

3. In the cosmetic composition, the filtrate of the fermentation product of the saccharomyces cerevisiae is used for completely replacing water to be used as a solvent of high-content vitamin C, and linseed oil, rosemary leaf oil, frankincense resin extract, tocopherol (vitamin E), glutathione GSH and superoxide dismutase SOD are scientifically matched to realize synergistic effect, and the vitamin C is stabilized by a chemical way, so that the bioavailability of the vitamin C in the cosmetic is improved.

4. The cosmetic composition provided by the invention has the advantages of transparent appearance, clear and moist skin feel without burden feeling, good vitamin C stability and prolonged shelf life of vitamin C cosmetics.

5. The preparation method of the cosmetic composition can be summarized into three process steps of water phase room temperature dissolution, oil phase room temperature dissolution and oil phase pouring into water phase, the whole process does not need to be heated and cooled, the water phase/oil phase room temperature dissolution is not needed, the operation steps are simplified, the production energy consumption is effectively reduced, and the production cost is saved.

Detailed Description

The present invention will be described in detail with reference to the following embodiments.

The transparent cosmetic composition with stable vitamin C content provided by the invention comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 5.0 to 25.0 percent of vitamin C, 0.5 to 3.0 percent of skin conditioning agent, 0.1 to 0.6 percent of pH regulator, 0.05 to 0.1 percent of chelating agent, 4.5 to 10.0 percent of humectant, 7.0 to 17.0 percent of emollient, 1.0 to 3.0 percent of antioxidant, 0.4 to 0.6 percent of preservative and the balance of solvent.

Preferably, the transparent cosmetic composition with stable vitamin C content comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 10.0 to 20.0 percent of vitamin C, 1.0 to 1.5 percent of skin conditioning agent, 0.2 to 0.4 percent of pH regulator, 0.05 to 0.1 percent of chelating agent, 8 to 10.0 percent of humectant, 12.0 to 15.0 percent of emollient, 1.5 to 2.0 percent of antioxidant, 0.4 to 0.5 percent of preservative and the balance of solvent.

Preferably, the solvent is a fermentation product filtrate of Saccharomyces cerevisiae.

Preferably, the skin conditioning agent is a mixture of superoxide dismutase, SOD, and glutathione, GSH.

Preferably, the pH adjustor is at least one of sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

Preferably, the chelating agent is disodium EDTA or tetrasodium EDTA.

Preferably, the humectant is at least two of glycerin, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, sodium PCA, trehalose, and betaine.

Preferably, the emollient is one of C13-16 isoparaffin, octyl polymethylsiloxane, and at least two of rosemary leaf oil, linseed oil, and olibanum resin extract.

Preferably, the antioxidant is at least one of tocopherol (vitamin E) or tocopheryl acetate.

Preferably, the preservative is a mixture of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerol.

The components consisting of two or more substances are used in conventional amounts, and the proportion of the components is not particularly required.

The invention also provides a preparation method of the transparent cosmetic composition with stable vitamin C content, which comprises the following steps:

Step one, adding vitamin C, a skin conditioning agent, a pH regulator, a chelating agent, a humectant and a preservative into a solvent according to a proportion, and stirring at room temperature to fully dissolve to prepare a transparent water phase; stirring and fully dissolving an emollient and an antioxidant at room temperature to prepare a transparent oil phase;

And secondly, pouring the oil phase into the water phase to prepare the cosmetic composition with water-oil double layers (oil applying and water draining) and transparent appearance and high vitamin C content.

The present invention will be described in further detail with reference to examples, but the scope of the present invention is not limited to these examples.

The formulations of examples 1-5 are as follows:

TABLE 1 EXAMPLES 1 to 5 ingredient tables

Examples 1-5 the preparation of the high vitamin C content cosmetic composition comprises the steps of:

Adding vitamin C, a skin conditioner, a pH regulator, a chelating agent and a humectant preservative into a solvent, and stirring at room temperature to fully dissolve to prepare a transparent water phase; stirring and fully dissolving an emollient and an antioxidant at room temperature to prepare a transparent oil phase;

and secondly, pouring all the oil phase into the water phase to prepare the cosmetic composition with water-oil double layers (oil applying and water draining) and transparent appearance and high vitamin C content.

In order to determine the composition of the raw materials of the present invention, the inventors conducted a number of laboratory studies, as follows:

1. Stability test

According to the mass percentage composition of the raw materials in the table 2, example 3 and comparative examples 1 to 5 were prepared respectively, and stability was tested, and the results are shown in the table 2.

TABLE 2 stability test results (unit: wt%)

As can be seen from table 2, the product of example 3 has good stability after being placed for 1 month at 45 ℃, light yellow and transparent color, 18.3% vitamin C content and stable sample; the product of comparative example 1 has no pH regulator, pH value is 2.67, the color is light yellow, but vitamin C is separated out, and the product is unstable; the comparative example 2 product was excessive in comparison to the pH regulator of example 3, the pH of the product was 5.23, the color was dark yellow, the vitamin C content was reduced to 7.5%, and the product was unstable; the product of comparative example 3 has yellow color, the content of vitamin C is reduced to 8.7% compared with the product of example 3 without superoxide dismutase SOD and glutathione GSH, and the product is unstable; the product of comparative example 4 has no oil phase, dark yellow color, 6.7% vitamin C content reduction and unstable product compared with the product of example 3; the product of comparative example 5 was yellow in color, reduced in vitamin C content to 9.2% and unstable relative to the oil-free phase antioxidant of example 3.

The inventors further conducted stability test at 45℃for 1 month on the cosmetics prepared in examples 1 to 5, and the specific test results are shown in Table 3.

TABLE 3 cosmetic stability test results for examples 1 to 5

Sample of	Example 1	Example 2	Example 3	Example 4	Example 5
						Whether or not it is transparent	Transparent and transparent	Transparent and transparent	Transparent and transparent	Transparent and transparent	Transparent and transparent
Whether or not to turn yellow	Pale yellow	Pale yellow	Pale yellow	Pale yellow	Pale yellow
						Vitamin C content (%)	4.7％	9.3％	18.3％	22.7％	13.8％
Oxidation rate of vitamin C (%)	6％	7％	8.5％	9.3％	8％
						Stability test results	Stabilization	Stabilization	Stabilization	Stabilization	Stabilization

As can be seen from Table 3, the cosmetics prepared in examples 1 to 5 of the present invention are pale yellow and transparent in appearance, the oxidation rate of vitamin C is less than 10%, and the sample stability is good. It can be seen that the high vitamin C cosmetic provided by the invention has a transparent appearance and stable vitamin C content at a specific formulation ratio.

2. Antioxidant efficacy test

2.1 Test purposes: the antioxidant effect of example 3 and comparative example 6 were tested, respectively.

2.2 Principle of test: 1, 1-diphenyl-2-trinitrophenylhydrazine (DPPH) is a stable long-life free radical, and non-common electrons (N.cndot.) exist in the molecule, and when the molecule reacts with electrons and free radicals, the molecule is converted into a stable structure (N-H). DPPH is dark purple in alcohol solution, and when free radicals are eliminated, the color of the alcohol solution becomes light after the covalent bond structure is formed. Whether the cosmetic has the antioxidation capability or not can be judged through the DPPH free radical scavenging effect, and the higher the fading degree of the DPPH alcohol solution is, the stronger the antioxidation capability is, and the weaker the reverse is.

2.3 Test method: in the cosmetic formulation of example 3, comparative example 6 was obtained without adding the fermentation product filtrate of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, superoxide dismutase SOD, glutathione GSH, linseed oil, rosemary leaf oil, C13-16 isoparaffin, tocopherol (vitamin E), and the specific formulation composition is shown in Table 4.

Table 4 cosmetic formulations (unit: wt%) of example 3 and comparative example 6

DPPH radical scavenging experiment: the samples of example 3 and comparative example 6 were left at 45℃for 1 month stability and were subjected to a color development reaction with DPPH-solution, and the degree of discoloration was observed.

2.4, Judging the basis: the higher the degree of discoloration (bluish violet) of the reaction system, the stronger the antioxidant capacity thereof, and conversely, the weaker the degree of discoloration.

2.5 Test results

TABLE 5 DPPH radical scavenging test results for example 3 and comparative example 6

Sample name	Example 3	Comparative example 6
			Color reaction test results	Immediately fade to near colorless	Slightly discolored, changes to light purple at 37 ℃ after 13 DEG C

As can be seen from Table 5, the sample of example 3 faded immediately to near colorless and had a stronger scavenging ability for DPPH radicals; comparative example 6 was slightly discolored and turned pale purple after standing at 37℃for 13, and had a weak scavenging ability for DPPH radicals. Example 3 is shown to have significantly greater antioxidant capacity than comparative example 6.

3. Whitening and brightening efficacy test

3.1 Test purposes: the improvement in skin brightness of the test subjects was measured for example 3 and comparative example 6, respectively.

3.2 Test object: volunteers 18-60 years old who met the test conditions.

3.3 Number of test persons: 60 names

3.4 Test period: for 30 days

3.5 Test method: the subjects were randomized into two groups of 30 subjects, one using the example 3 sample and the other using the comparative example 6 sample, and the subjects were instructed to use according to instructions to ensure that the subjects used the test samples correctly and consecutively for at least 30 days. Skin brightness was evaluated on the skin of the same site of the subject before and after use, respectively.

3.6 Using method: after the face is cleaned in the morning and evening every day, a dime-sized test sample is uniformly smeared on the face and is gently massaged until the face is absorbed, and then a dime-sized sun-proof sample is uniformly smeared on the face and is gently massaged until the face is absorbed.

3.7 Evaluation method: skin brightness was measured using a facial image analyzer (VISIA-CR, usa), with L values representing skin brightness, and a larger value indicated brighter skin. P <0.05 is statistically significant for the differences.

3.8 Test results:

Table 6 subject face L value data using example 3 and using comparative example 6

Test data are mean values of 60 subjects.

The test data in Table 6 shows that both example 3 and comparative example 6 can increase the L value of facial skin after 30 days of use, but the L value increase rate of the test group of example 3 is 1.93%, which is significantly higher than that of comparative example 6 by 0.52%, the significance P value of the test group of example 3 is 0.003, P <0.05, and the effect of lightening is achieved, and the significance P value of the test group of comparative example 6 is 0.495, P > 0.05, and no effect of lightening is significantly achieved.

Claims (3)

1. The transparent cosmetic composition with stable vitamin C content is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass: 5.0 to 25.0 percent of vitamin C, 0.5 to 3.0 percent of skin conditioning agent, 0.1 to 0.6 percent of pH regulator, 0.05 to 0.1 percent of chelating agent, 4.5 to 10.0 percent of humectant, 7.0 to 17.0 percent of emollient, 1.0 to 3.0 percent of antioxidant, 0.4 to 0.6 percent of preservative and the balance of solvent;

the solvent is a fermentation product filtrate of the saccharomyces cerevisiae;

the skin conditioner is a mixture of superoxide dismutase (SOD) and Glutathione (GSH);

the pH regulator is at least one of sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide;

the chelating agent is disodium EDTA or tetrasodium EDTA;

the humectant is at least two mixtures of glycerin, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, sodium PCA, trehalose or betaine;

The emollient is a mixture of one of C13-16 isoparaffin or octyl polymethylsiloxane and at least two of rosemary leaf oil, linseed oil or olibanum resin extract;

the antioxidant is at least one of tocopherol and tocopheryl acetate; the preservative is a mixture of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerol.

2. The transparent cosmetic composition with stable vitamin C content according to claim 1, characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass: 10.0 to 20.0 percent of vitamin C, 1.0 to 1.5 percent of skin conditioning agent, 0.2 to 0.4 percent of pH regulator, 0.05 to 0.1 percent of chelating agent, 8 to 10.0 percent of humectant, 12.0 to 15.0 percent of emollient, 1.5 to 2.0 percent of antioxidant, 0.4 to 0.5 percent of preservative and the balance of solvent.

3. The method for preparing a transparent cosmetic composition with stable vitamin C content according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it is specifically carried out according to the following steps:

step one, adding vitamin C, a skin conditioner, a pH regulator, a chelating agent, a humectant and a preservative into a solvent according to a proportion, and stirring at room temperature to fully dissolve to prepare a transparent water phase; stirring and fully dissolving an emollient and an antioxidant at room temperature to prepare a transparent oil phase;

and step two, pouring the oil phase into the water phase to prepare the cosmetic composition with stable vitamin C content, which is transparent in appearance and is oily and water-draining.