CN111254704A - 一种仿羊毛面料的制备工艺 - Google Patents
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种仿羊毛面料的制备工艺,涉及人造皮草的技术领域,其包括以下步骤:S1,整经;S2,经编织;S3,剖布;S4,预定型;S5,浸泡改性;S6,染色;S7,后整理;按重量份数计,每100份水中,改性处理剂包括以下组分:丝胶蛋白35‑40份;吐温80 1‑2份;环氧氯丙烷8‑10份;氢氧化钠2‑4份;催化剂2‑4份。丝胶蛋白的主要成分是氨基酸,分子结构中含有羟基、羧基等亲水性基团,因而具有优良的吸湿性能。利用环氧氯丙烷分子中活泼的C‑Cl键与丝胶中的氨基发生亲核取代反应进行缩合,或者丝胶中的氨基和环氧氯丙烷中的苯环发生开环反应制备含胶环氧类化合物,进而以环氧氯丙烷为载体,使丝胶接枝到涤纶纤维上,进而改善涤纶面料的吸湿性能。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及人造皮草的技术领域,更具体地说,它涉及一种仿羊毛面料的制备工艺。
背景技术
羊毛面料具有优异的保暖性和美感,在毛毯、服装以及各种装饰材料上的应用十分广泛,目前爱护动物的风潮在全世界越来越高涨,与此同时不会牺牲动物的仿真皮草得到了极大的关注。
公布号为CN104480612A的中国专利公开了一种抗静电仿羊毛面料的生产方法,其包括以下步骤:(a)织造:采用72f半消光或全消光丝作面丝、72f长丝与导电丝混纺线作为底丝,上述丝线用圆纬机织造成坯布,所述导电丝占坯布总质量的20-30%;(b)前处理:将上述坯布浸入前处理溶液中,所述溶液包括以下重量:净棉酶2-5g/L、尿素1-1.5g/L、渗透剂2-3g/L、100%双氧水12-20g/L;坯布带液率为100%,浸泡时间为3-4h,浸泡温度为80-90℃;(c)预定型:使用预定型机对坯布作预定型处理,定型温度为170-185℃,车速为10-15m/min,超喂25-30%;(d)染色:将坯布放入染色机的清水中,在清水中逐渐加入染料,PH值为6-7,循环化料加料20-25min后,染色机升温,升温速度为0.8-1.3℃/min,待其升温至130℃后,保持20-30min,然后染色机降温,降温速度为2-3℃/min,当温度降至60℃时,将染料水排斥,重新注入清水洗涤布料;(e)烘干:烘干机预热至160-180℃,将染色后的布料放入烘干机中,烘干机车速为20-30m/min,超喂20-25%,轧浆1-4%;(f)刷毛:采用双辊刷毛机对坯布作刷毛处理,毛刷转数为600-800r,毛刷与布面的距离为2-3mm;(g)气蒸:将刷毛后的布料送入气蒸机,车速为15-20m/min,气蒸温度为160-180℃;(h)再刷毛:采用双棍刷毛机随布料作在刷毛处理,毛刷转数为200-400rpm,毛刷与布面的间距为3-8mm;(i)滚球:将机器预热至90℃,布料放入其中,再升温至140℃后,加湿10-30s,保温5-8min后机器降温至75℃,降温速度为3℃/min,降温后出布;(j)定型:将滚球处理后的布料放入定型机,定型温度为130-170℃,定型机车速30m/min,超喂15-20%;(k)打卷:将定型后的布料收卷。
上述技术方案主要解决了涤纶纤维容易产生静电的缺陷,但是涤纶纤维同时还存在吸湿和保水性较差,作为服装面料存在穿着闷热的缺点,有待改进。
发明内容
针对现有技术存在的不足,本发明的目的在于提供一种仿羊毛面料的制备工艺,通过该工艺制备的涤纶面料则能够解决其吸湿和保水性差的问题,以克服穿着闷热的缺陷。
为实现上述目的,本发明提供了如下技术方案:
一种仿羊毛面料的制备工艺,包括以下步骤:
S1,整经:对FDY涤纶和DTY涤纶分别进行整经;
S2,经编织:以FDY涤纶为面丝、DTY涤纶为底丝,编织获得三层的坯布,两侧为DTY层、中间为FDY层;
S3,剖布:将坯布从中间剖开,获得两张半成品面料;
S4,预定型:将半成品面料在隧道炉内进行传送,隧道炉的加热温度为210-220℃;
S5,浸泡改性:经预定型后的面料投入无染料的染缸中,加入改性处理剂,在80-100℃的条件下浸泡40-60min,二浸二轧后烘干;
S6,染色,将改性后的面料投入染缸中,加入染料,在110-120℃条件下浸泡染色30-60min,染色完成后烘干;
S7,后整理:对染色后的面料进行定型、刷毛、烫光、卷绕定型;
按重量份数计,每100份水中,所述改性处理剂包括以下组分:
通过采用上述技术方案,FDY涤纶又称作全拉伸丝,其面料手感顺滑柔软,DTY涤纶又称作涤纶低弹丝,具有稳定性高的特点,以FDY涤纶为面丝为仿羊毛提供了良好手感和顺滑度的基础,而DTY涤纶作为底丝由于其良好的稳定性,使得DTY层具有良好的幅宽稳定性。且涤纶丝的特性是可以抵受化学物质及经常洗涤,减少了面料的退色及脱色现象,且其防火性极高。
经过整经和经编织后获得三层的坯布,再通过将坯布从中间剖开获得两张半成品面料的方式,使得在生产制备过程中,能够有效利用FDY涤纶长丝的特性更加高效地去获得半成品面料。
FDY涤纶由于制备工艺的原因,表面的纺织油含量较高,使得FDY层较为软塌。而在预定型过程中,通过210-220℃的加热,能够除去使得油剂挥发,降低表面含油量,使得FDY层更加阔挺,起到预定型的作用。
通过在130-135℃条件下进行浸染40-90min,能够有效提高上色率和色牢度,其浸染时间能够根据颜色深浅进行选择。
在后整理步骤中,通过定型机对DTY层进行加热定型,以进一步保证DTY层的幅宽稳定性,通过对DTY层进行上胶,使得FDY涤纶的根部能够在编织的基础上,进一被牢牢固定于DTY层上,降低掉毛率。再经过后续的刷毛、烫光和绕卷定型对FDY层进行整理,最终获得美观度和质感良好的仿羊毛面料,具有色牢度高、掉毛率低且环保阻燃等优点。
改性剂中,丝胶蛋白的主要成分是氨基酸,分子结构中含有羟基、羧基等亲水性基团,因而具有优良的吸湿性能,且丝胶具有良好的生理特性,例如抗氧化、抗紫外线等。利用环氧氯丙烷分子中活泼的C-Cl键与丝胶中的氨基发生亲核取代反应进行缩合,或者丝胶中的氨基和环氧氯丙烷中的苯环发生开环反应制备含胶环氧类化合物,进而以环氧氯丙烷为载体,使丝胶接枝到涤纶纤维上,进而改善涤纶面料的吸湿性能。
进一步地,S5,浸泡改性:
S5.1,经预定型后的面料投入无染料的染缸中,加入预处理剂,在70-90℃条件下浸泡50-70min,调节pH至中性,二浸二轧后烘干;
S5.2,经预处理后的面料投入无染料的染缸中,加入改性处理剂,在80-100℃的条件下浸泡40-60min,二浸二轧后烘干。
通过采用上述技术方案,在处理剂改性之前先采用预处理剂,以提高改性处理剂对面料的改性效果。
进一步地,步骤S7中,定型温度为170-190℃。
通过采用上述技术方案,在170-190℃条件下,能够对DTY层进行充分定型,且使得胶水更易进行渗透,保证FDY涤纶长丝的根部能够在和DTY涤纶编织的基础上被进一步固定,以降低掉毛率。
进一步地,步骤S7中,烫光温度为220-240℃。
通过采用上述技术方案,提高面丝的柔顺度,以保证面料的质感。
进一步地,所述催化剂采用四丁基溴化铵。
通过采用上述技术方案,四丁基溴化铵能够有效催化丝胶蛋白和环氧氯丙烷进行反应。
进一步地,按重量份数计,改性处理剂还包括偶联剂1-3份。
通过采用上述技术方案,通过偶联剂,能够进一步提高环氧氯丙烷和涤纶纤维之间的连接牢固度。
进一步地,所述偶联剂采用KH-550。
通过采用上述技术方案,KH-550即γ-氨丙基三乙氧基硅烷,在起到提高环氧氯丙烷和涤纶纤维之间的连接牢固度的同时,还能够和环氧氯丙烷形成交联,以提高丝胶蛋白在涤纶纤维表面的连接强度。
进一步地,按重量份数计,每100份水中,预处理剂包括以下组分,
氢氧化钠 15-18份;
乙二胺 2-3份;
促进剂1631 0.5-0.8份;
pH调节剂,调节至中性。
通过采用上述技术方案,通过氢氧化钠对涤纶纤维进行减量处理,使得涤纶纤维的表面结构被破坏,产生裂纹和坑洼,使得水分子容易附着在空隙处,而通过添加乙二胺和氢氧化钠能够产生协调作用,胺解进一步加深裂纹和坑洼的深度,使得水分容易附着在空隙处,提高面料的吸湿性能。另外,通过对涤纶纤维进行减量处理后,纤维表面产生的裂纹和坑洼也有利于提高环氧氯丙烷在纤维表面的附着力。此外,残留在纤维表面的乙二胺能够和环氧氯丙烷形成交联,进一步提高丝胶蛋白在涤纶纤维表面的连接强度。
综上所述,本发明具有以下有益效果:
1.FDY涤纶又称作全拉伸丝,其面料手感顺滑柔软,DTY涤纶又称作涤纶低弹丝,具有稳定性高的特点,以FDY涤纶为面丝为仿羊毛提供了良好手感和顺滑度的基础,而DTY涤纶作为底丝由于其良好的稳定性,使得DTY层具有良好的幅宽稳定性。且涤纶丝的特性是可以抵受化学物质及经常洗涤,减少了面料的退色及脱色现象,且其防火性极高。
2.FDY涤纶由于制备工艺的原因,表面的纺织油含量较高,使得FDY层较为软塌。而在预定型过程中,通过210-220℃的加热,能够除去使得油剂挥发,降低表面含油量,使得FDY层更加阔挺,起到预定型的作用。
3.在后整理步骤中,通过定型机对DTY层进行加热定型,以进一步保证DTY层的幅宽稳定性,通过对DTY层进行上胶,使得FDY涤纶的根部能够在编织的基础上,进一被牢牢固定于DTY层上,降低掉毛率。再经过后续的刷毛、烫光和绕卷定型对FDY层进行整理,最终获得美观度和质感良好的仿羊毛面料,具有色牢度高、掉毛率低且环保阻燃等优点。
4.改性剂中,丝胶蛋白的主要成分是氨基酸,分子结构中含有羟基、羧基等亲水性基团,因而具有优良的吸湿性能,且丝胶具有良好的生理特性,例如抗氧化、抗紫外线等。利用环氧氯丙烷分子中活泼的C-Cl键与丝胶中的氨基发生亲核取代反应进行缩合,或者丝胶中的氨基和环氧氯丙烷中的苯环发生开环反应制备含胶环氧类化合物,进而以环氧氯丙烷为载体,使丝胶接枝到涤纶纤维上,进而改善涤纶面料的吸湿性能。
5.KH-550即γ-氨丙基三乙氧基硅烷,在起到提高环氧氯丙烷和涤纶纤维之间的连接牢固度的同时,还能够和环氧氯丙烷形成交联,以提高丝胶蛋白在涤纶纤维表面的连接强度。
6.通过氢氧化钠对涤纶纤维进行减量处理,使得涤纶纤维的表面结构被破坏,产生裂纹和坑洼,使得水分子容易附着在空隙处,而通过添加乙二胺和氢氧化钠能够产生协调作用,胺解进一步加深裂纹和坑洼的深度,使得水分容易附着在空隙处,提高面料的吸湿性能。另外,通过对涤纶纤维进行减量处理后,纤维表面产生的裂纹和坑洼也有利于提高环氧氯丙烷在纤维表面的附着力。此外,残留在纤维表面的乙二胺能够和环氧氯丙烷形成交联,进一步提高丝胶蛋白在涤纶纤维表面的连接强度。
附图说明
图1是本发明提供的方法的流程图。
具体实施方式
以下结合附图和实施例对本发明作进一步详细说明。
实施例
实施例1
一种仿羊毛面料的制备工艺,如图1所示,包括以下步骤:
S1,整经:对FDY涤纶和DTY涤纶分别进行整经;
S2,经编织:以FDY涤纶为面丝、DTY涤纶为底丝,编织获得三层的坯布,两侧为DTY层、中间为FDY层;
S3,剖布:将坯布从中间剖开,获得两张半成品面料;
S4,预定型:将半成品面料在隧道炉内进行传送,隧道炉的加热温度为220℃;
S5,浸泡改性:
S5.1经预定型后的面料投入无染料的染缸中,加入预处理剂,在80℃条件下浸泡60min,二浸二轧后烘干;
S5.2,经预处理后的面料投入无染料的染缸中,加入改性处理剂,在90℃的条件下浸泡50min,调节pH至中性,二浸二轧后烘干;
S6,染色,将改性后的面料投入染缸中,加入染料,在110℃条件下浸泡染色40min,染色完成后烘干;
S7,后整理:对染色后的面料进行定型、刷毛、烫光、卷绕定型。
步骤S7中,定型温度为180℃,烫光温度为230℃,定型采用定型机对DTY层进行热定型,定型温度为180℃,同时对DTY层的底层进行上浆(辊涂胶水)。刷毛则采用机器对FDY层进行梳理,使其表层更加整齐顺滑。刷毛工序则是从FDY纤维的根部开始进行梳理,以保证梳理效果,同时还能够去除粘附率较低的FDY纤维,以保证成品的掉毛率下降。卷绕定型则是对面丝进行卷绕和热定型,使得面丝具有良好的卷曲度,以提高仿羊毛的仿真度。
按重量份数计,每100份水中,预处理剂的原料组分如表1所示。
按重量份数计,每100份水中,改性处理剂的原料组分如表1所示。
其中,S5.1具体包括:经预定型后的面料投入无染料的染缸中,加入乙二胺、氢氧化钠和促进剂1631的水溶剂,在80℃条件下浸泡60min,用醋酸调节pH至中性,二浸二轧后烘干。
S5.2具体包括:先配置改性处理剂,将丝胶蛋白、环氧氯丙烷、四丁基溴化铵搅拌均匀,分7-8次加入氢氧化钠溶液进行反应,在反应过程中通入氮气,静置分出下层油层,水洗至中性,继续分出下层产物,加入吐温80和水,以1500r/min搅拌30min,获得乳液;经预处理后的面料投入无染料的染缸中,加入获得的乳液、偶联剂KH-550,在90℃的条件下浸泡50min,调节pH至中性,二浸二轧后烘干。
实施例2
与实施例1的区别在于:
按重量份数计,每100份水中,预处理剂的原料组分如表1所示。
按重量份数计,每100份水中,改性处理剂的原料组分如表1所示。
实施例3
与实施例1的区别在于:
按重量份数计,每100份水中,预处理剂的原料组分如表1所示。
按重量份数计,每100份水中,改性处理剂的原料组分如表1所示。
实施例4
与实施例1的区别在于:
按重量份数计,每100份水中,预处理剂的原料组分如表1所示。
按重量份数计,每100份水中,改性处理剂的原料组分如表1所示。
对比例
对比例1
与实施例1的区别在于:
步骤S5中,取消S5.1,即在改性前不进行预处理。
按重量份数计,每100份水中,预处理剂的原料组分如表1所示。
按重量份数计,每100份水中,改性处理剂的原料组分如表1所示。
性能检测试验
透气率测试:根据GB/T 5453-1997《纺织品织物透气性的测定》对各组试样进行透气性检测,在测试前将待测试样进行预调湿,根据ASTM D737在测试前使试样在(20±2)℃、相对湿度(65±2)%的标准大气压环境中达到平衡,测试结果如表2所示。
表1、处理剂配方表
表2、透气性能表
透气率(mm/s) | |
实施例1 | 48.3 |
实施例2 | 48.4 |
实施例3 | 48.6 |
实施例4 | 42.5 |
对比例1 | 39.3 |
由表1、表2可见,经过预处理剂和改性处理及处理后的面料,在透气性上能够获得显著提升,改善了涤纶纤维面料穿着闷热的缺陷。
本具体实施例仅仅是对本发明的解释,其并不是对本发明的限制,本领域技术人员在阅读完本说明书后可以根据需要对本实施例做出没有创造性贡献的修改,但只要在本发明的权利要求范围内都受到专利法的保护。
Claims (8)
1.一种仿羊毛面料的制备工艺,其特征在于:包括以下步骤,
S1,整经:对FDY涤纶和DTY涤纶分别进行整经;
S2,经编织:以FDY涤纶为面丝、DTY涤纶为底丝,编织获得三层的坯布,两侧为DTY层、中间为FDY层;
S3,剖布:将坯布从中间剖开,获得两张半成品面料;
S4,预定型:将半成品面料在隧道炉内进行传送,隧道炉的加热温度为210-220℃;
S5,浸泡改性:经预定型后的面料投入无染料的染缸中,加入改性处理剂,在80-100℃的条件下浸泡40-60min,二浸二轧后烘干;
S6,染色,将改性后的面料投入染缸中,加入染料,在110-120℃条件下浸泡染色30-60min,染色完成后烘干;
S7,后整理:对染色后的面料进行定型、刷毛、烫光、卷绕定型;
按重量份数计,每100份水中,所述改性处理剂包括以下组分:
丝胶蛋白 35-40份;
吐温80 1-2份;
环氧氯丙烷 8-10份;
氢氧化钠 2-4份;
催化剂 2-4份。
2.根据权利要求1所述的仿羊毛面料的制备工艺,其特征在于:S5,浸泡改性:
S5.1,经预定型后的面料投入无染料的染缸中,加入预处理剂,在70-90℃条件下浸泡50-70min,调节pH至中性,二浸二轧后烘干;
S5.2,经预处理后的面料投入无染料的染缸中,加入改性处理剂,在80-100℃的条件下浸泡40-60min,二浸二轧后烘干。
3.根据权利要求1所述的仿羊毛面料的制备工艺,其特征在于:步骤S7中,定型温度为170-190℃。
4.根据权利要求1所述的仿羊毛面料的制备工艺,其特征在于:步骤S7中,烫光温度为220-240℃。
5.根据权利要求1所述的仿羊毛面料的制备工艺,其特征在于:所述催化剂采用四丁基溴化铵。
6.根据权利要求1所述的仿羊毛面料的制备工艺,其特征在于:按重量份数计,改性处理剂还包括偶联剂1-3份。
7.根据权利要求6所述的仿羊毛面料的制备工艺,其特征在于:所述偶联剂采用KH-550。
8.根据权利要求1所述的仿羊毛面料的制备工艺,其特征在于:按重量份数计,每100份水中,预处理剂包括以下组分,
氢氧化钠 15-18份;
乙二胺 2-3份;
促进剂1631 0.5-0.8份。
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