WO2020224038A1 - Procédé de tricotage pour le tissage d'un fil de poil à simple brin et tissu tricoté - Google Patents

Procédé de tricotage pour le tissage d'un fil de poil à simple brin et tissu tricoté Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2020224038A1
WO2020224038A1 PCT/CN2019/092294 CN2019092294W WO2020224038A1 WO 2020224038 A1 WO2020224038 A1 WO 2020224038A1 CN 2019092294 W CN2019092294 W CN 2019092294W WO 2020224038 A1 WO2020224038 A1 WO 2020224038A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
yarn
twist
strand
strand yarn
twisted
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/CN2019/092294
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English (en)
Chinese (zh)
Inventor
韩松
Original Assignee
周芃
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by 周芃 filed Critical 周芃
Publication of WO2020224038A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020224038A1/fr

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02—Wool

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the field of knitting of pile yarn, in particular to a knitting and knitting method of pile type single-strand yarn and a knitted fabric obtained by knitting by the knitting method.
  • the weft angle of the fabric generally ranges from 15 degrees to 30 degrees. This weft deviation cannot be overcome by existing means. For example, high-temperature shaping and other methods can only solve temporary needs. After washing, the weft skew will reappear. Analyzed from the principle, the weft skew is the result of the torsion force in the yarn being released by the way of tissue deformation. In other words, the release of torsion is at the expense of tilting the fabric.
  • single-strand yarn for weaving has important practical value.
  • the products made with it are lighter and thinner.
  • a single yarn fabric of the same specification is only equivalent to one-half of the weight of the plied yarn. It expands the adaptability of fluff products to the season, while saving raw materials and reducing costs.
  • how to overcome the problem of pilling of cashmere wool knitted fabrics has become a century-old problem for this type of products, and it has plagued generations of cashmere practitioners.
  • the technological breakthrough of single-strand yarn knitting will increase the anti-pilling performance of this type of fabric by 1-2 levels.
  • the production process is shortened, the production efficiency is improved, and the processing cost is reduced. Especially for woolen single yarn products, it can become the best substitute for traditional worsted products.
  • the purpose of the present invention is to provide a method for knitting and knitting pile single-ply yarns to solve the above-mentioned defects in the background technology.
  • a method for knitting and knitting wool single-strand yarns adopts double-system computerized flat knitting machine and double shuttle knitting, one yarn nozzle is threaded with S-twist single-strand yarn, and the other yarn nozzle is threaded with the S-twist single-strand
  • the Z-twisted single-strand yarn with the same yarn count and twist but the opposite twist direction is knitted alternately with two yarn nozzles one after the other.
  • the linear density variation coefficient of each of the S-twisted single-strand yarn and Z-twisted single-strand yarn is ⁇ 12%, and more preferably ⁇ 2%.
  • the S-twisted single-stranded yarn and Z-twisted single-stranded yarn are divided into multiple gears according to weight, such as 3 gears or 5 gears, from heavy to light as L, M, S, or LL, L, M, S, SS.
  • weight such as 3 gears or 5 gears
  • L, M, S, or LL heavy to light
  • L, M, S, or LL heavy to light
  • the maximum count difference between two adjacent gears is within 8%, such as: L+M or M+S, or LL+L or L+M or M+S Or S+SS. In this way, the phenomenon of thin and thick gears caused by excessive deviation of the count can be avoided.
  • the linear density variation coefficient of single-stranded yarn, or the index of weight CV needs to be controlled at a level of ⁇ 2%.
  • the lower limit of the strength of the S-twisted single-strand yarn and the Z-twisted single-strand yarn is 120-150CN, and the applicable count range is: 15-32NM for carding and 32-48CN for combing.
  • the needle type of the computerized flat knitting machine adopts 12gg-20gg.
  • the yarn is selected from cashmere yarn, wool yarn, or blended yarn with cashmere or wool as the main component.
  • the present application also provides a knitted fabric obtained by weaving the above-mentioned weaving method.
  • the knitting and knitting method of fluff single-strand yarn of the present invention uses a twisting force in one direction generated by one twisting direction to offset the opposite twisting force generated by another twisting direction.
  • HS knitting method uses a twisting force in one direction generated by one twisting direction to offset the opposite twisting force generated by another twisting direction.
  • this technology adopts a tolerant and indulgent approach to the torsion generated by the single yarn, it can be released to a certain extent, instead of relying on the traditional rough heat setting method to solve it, so the original single yarn is retained.
  • the twist It will not produce the untwisting effect caused by twisting, and the cohesive force between the fibers is relatively improved, so that the fibers are not easy to slip outward and generate hair balls.
  • the traditional single shuttle knitting machine head runs one round trip, forming 2 rows of loops; because this technology adopts dual-system double shuttle knitting, the head runs one round trip, forming 4 loops of loops. Therefore, the production speed is doubled.
  • cost saving it is mainly reflected by shortening the process flow (eliminating the merging and twisting process of ply yarn) and reducing the requirements for raw materials.
  • spinning costs are also greatly reduced.
  • the processing fee for processing one kilogram of 26 single-strand woolen yarn is about 65 yuan per kilogram.
  • the processing fee for processing one kilogram of similar specifications, such as 48-count twisted worsted yarn, is about 120 yuan per kilogram.
  • the invention overcomes the weft skew problem existing in single-strand yarn weaving, improves the pilling resistance of the pile fabric, and can increase the production speed and reduce the production cost.
  • Figure 1 is a schematic diagram of the structure of the braid of the present invention.
  • the invention uses double-system computerized flat knitting machine (using conventional knitting computerized flat knitting machine and circular knitting machine) double shuttle knitting.
  • the specific operation is to hang one yarn nozzle with a single-strand yarn in the S twist direction, and the other yarn nozzle to hang a single-strand yarn with a Z twist in the opposite direction.
  • the two yarn nozzles form a row of alternating knitting one behind the other. As shown in Figure 1, after the S-twisted yarn 1 knits a row (the row of loops is twisted to the left), the Z-twisted yarn 2 immediately forms a loop on the S-twisted yarn (the row of loops is twisted to the right).
  • the linear density variation coefficient of the single-strand yarn is controlled to be ⁇ 2%.
  • the finished garment weight indexes of different yarns with the same needle type and the same tissue density are shown in Table 1.
  • the weight of the finished garment is obtained by using 26/2 cashmere stranded yarn and woven by conventional computer weaving technology.
  • the fabric number is Comparative Example 3.
  • Example 2 16gg 15 mesh M(175) 148 grams Comparative example 3 12gg 10.5 mesh M(175) 220 grams
  • the knitted fabric claimed in this application is obtained by weaving the above-mentioned weaving method. Therefore, it naturally also has the above-mentioned various technical effects and technical advantages, such as a higher pilling resistance level.
  • the technical solution of the present invention is not limited to cashmere yarn, and can also be applied to wool and rabbit hair, yak cashmere, camel cashmere, raccoon cashmere, camel cashmere Such as yarns made of all spinnable special animal fibers.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne un procédé de tricotage permettant de tisser un fil de poil à simple brin au moyen d'un procédé de tissage à deux navettes mis en œuvre par une machine à tricoter rectiligne informatisée à double système, ledit procédé incluant le passage d'un fil à simple brin torsadé en S (1) au travers d'un guide-fil et le passage d'un fil à simple brin torsadé en Z (2) au travers d'un autre guide-fil, le fil à simple brin torsadé en Z ayant le même nombre de fils et la même torsion que le fil à simple brin torsadé en S (1), mais avec une direction de torsion opposée et le tissage des deux guide-fil de telle sorte que l'un se déplace devant l'autre d'une manière alternée. La présente invention permet d'équilibrer les forces internes dans le tissu tricoté résultant grâce à une force de torsion générée dans une direction grâce à un sens de torsion et qui compense une autre force de torsion générée dans la direction opposée grâce à un autre sens de torsion, de telle sorte que l'asymétrie de trame soit corrigée à un niveau fondamental, ce qui permet de surmonter le problème de désalignement de trame associé à un tissage de fil à simple brin tout en améliorant la résistance au boulochage d'un tissu de poil. De plus, le procédé de la présente invention permet d'augmenter la vitesse de production et de réduire les coûts de production.
PCT/CN2019/092294 2019-05-06 2019-06-21 Procédé de tricotage pour le tissage d'un fil de poil à simple brin et tissu tricoté WO2020224038A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
CN201910369815.X 2019-05-06
CN201910369815.XA CN110079929A (zh) 2019-05-06 2019-05-06 绒毛类单股纱线针织编织方法

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WO2020224038A1 true WO2020224038A1 (fr) 2020-11-12

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WO (1) WO2020224038A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN110453354A (zh) * 2019-08-23 2019-11-15 宁波大千纺织品有限公司 一种带状剪绒立体大提花新面料及其制备方法
CN112593337B (zh) * 2020-12-04 2022-08-16 泰安市丽源工贸有限公司 一种含艾维纤维针织面料的制备方法

Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
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JPH055201A (ja) * 1991-06-28 1993-01-14 Kanebo Ltd ストツキング及びその製造方法
CN1546770A (zh) * 2003-12-03 2004-11-17 江苏Ab集团有限责任公司 一种消除单面纬编针织物直向纹路歪斜的方法
CN1837434A (zh) * 2006-03-30 2006-09-27 江苏华佳丝绸有限公司 无纬斜单面丝棉针织物
CN102363918A (zh) * 2011-06-30 2012-02-29 江苏金辰针纺织有限公司 抗变形针织面料
CN102605528A (zh) * 2011-12-19 2012-07-25 无锡市纳溪迩服饰有限公司 一种正反捻闪光针织面料的加工方法
CN203462243U (zh) * 2013-09-07 2014-03-05 联润翔（青岛）纺织科技有限公司 一种接触凉感天然针织面料
CN104674442A (zh) * 2015-03-16 2015-06-03 浙江雅娜纺织有限公司 一种混纺的高档针织面料

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CN101245518B (zh) * 2008-02-18 2011-04-27 东华大学 一种双组分并列复合长丝的后加工方法
JP5180053B2 (ja) * 2008-12-24 2013-04-10 東洋紡スペシャルティズトレーディング株式会社 保温編地
CN103498269A (zh) * 2013-09-24 2014-01-08 昆山市周市镇吉盛服装厂 一种两组织圆筒面料的制备方法
JP2017031526A (ja) * 2015-07-31 2017-02-09 南海合繊株式会社 ベア天竺緯編物
CN108049009A (zh) * 2017-11-29 2018-05-18 新马（安徽）制衣有限公司 一种全自动拉布方法

Patent Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH055201A (ja) * 1991-06-28 1993-01-14 Kanebo Ltd ストツキング及びその製造方法
CN1546770A (zh) * 2003-12-03 2004-11-17 江苏Ab集团有限责任公司 一种消除单面纬编针织物直向纹路歪斜的方法
CN1837434A (zh) * 2006-03-30 2006-09-27 江苏华佳丝绸有限公司 无纬斜单面丝棉针织物
CN102363918A (zh) * 2011-06-30 2012-02-29 江苏金辰针纺织有限公司 抗变形针织面料
CN102605528A (zh) * 2011-12-19 2012-07-25 无锡市纳溪迩服饰有限公司 一种正反捻闪光针织面料的加工方法
CN203462243U (zh) * 2013-09-07 2014-03-05 联润翔（青岛）纺织科技有限公司 一种接触凉感天然针织面料
CN104674442A (zh) * 2015-03-16 2015-06-03 浙江雅娜纺织有限公司 一种混纺的高档针织面料

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