WO2020224038A1 - Knitting process for weaving single strand pile yarn, and knitted fabric - Google Patents
Knitting process for weaving single strand pile yarn, and knitted fabric Download PDFInfo
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- WO2020224038A1 WO2020224038A1 PCT/CN2019/092294 CN2019092294W WO2020224038A1 WO 2020224038 A1 WO2020224038 A1 WO 2020224038A1 CN 2019092294 W CN2019092294 W CN 2019092294W WO 2020224038 A1 WO2020224038 A1 WO 2020224038A1
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/02—Wool
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- the invention relates to the field of knitting of pile yarn, in particular to a knitting and knitting method of pile type single-strand yarn and a knitted fabric obtained by knitting by the knitting method.
- the weft angle of the fabric generally ranges from 15 degrees to 30 degrees. This weft deviation cannot be overcome by existing means. For example, high-temperature shaping and other methods can only solve temporary needs. After washing, the weft skew will reappear. Analyzed from the principle, the weft skew is the result of the torsion force in the yarn being released by the way of tissue deformation. In other words, the release of torsion is at the expense of tilting the fabric.
- single-strand yarn for weaving has important practical value.
- the products made with it are lighter and thinner.
- a single yarn fabric of the same specification is only equivalent to one-half of the weight of the plied yarn. It expands the adaptability of fluff products to the season, while saving raw materials and reducing costs.
- how to overcome the problem of pilling of cashmere wool knitted fabrics has become a century-old problem for this type of products, and it has plagued generations of cashmere practitioners.
- the technological breakthrough of single-strand yarn knitting will increase the anti-pilling performance of this type of fabric by 1-2 levels.
- the production process is shortened, the production efficiency is improved, and the processing cost is reduced. Especially for woolen single yarn products, it can become the best substitute for traditional worsted products.
- the purpose of the present invention is to provide a method for knitting and knitting pile single-ply yarns to solve the above-mentioned defects in the background technology.
- a method for knitting and knitting wool single-strand yarns adopts double-system computerized flat knitting machine and double shuttle knitting, one yarn nozzle is threaded with S-twist single-strand yarn, and the other yarn nozzle is threaded with the S-twist single-strand
- the Z-twisted single-strand yarn with the same yarn count and twist but the opposite twist direction is knitted alternately with two yarn nozzles one after the other.
- the linear density variation coefficient of each of the S-twisted single-strand yarn and Z-twisted single-strand yarn is ⁇ 12%, and more preferably ⁇ 2%.
- the S-twisted single-stranded yarn and Z-twisted single-stranded yarn are divided into multiple gears according to weight, such as 3 gears or 5 gears, from heavy to light as L, M, S, or LL, L, M, S, SS.
- weight such as 3 gears or 5 gears
- L, M, S, or LL heavy to light
- L, M, S, or LL heavy to light
- the maximum count difference between two adjacent gears is within 8%, such as: L+M or M+S, or LL+L or L+M or M+S Or S+SS. In this way, the phenomenon of thin and thick gears caused by excessive deviation of the count can be avoided.
- the linear density variation coefficient of single-stranded yarn, or the index of weight CV needs to be controlled at a level of ⁇ 2%.
- the lower limit of the strength of the S-twisted single-strand yarn and the Z-twisted single-strand yarn is 120-150CN, and the applicable count range is: 15-32NM for carding and 32-48CN for combing.
- the needle type of the computerized flat knitting machine adopts 12gg-20gg.
- the yarn is selected from cashmere yarn, wool yarn, or blended yarn with cashmere or wool as the main component.
- the present application also provides a knitted fabric obtained by weaving the above-mentioned weaving method.
- the knitting and knitting method of fluff single-strand yarn of the present invention uses a twisting force in one direction generated by one twisting direction to offset the opposite twisting force generated by another twisting direction.
- HS knitting method uses a twisting force in one direction generated by one twisting direction to offset the opposite twisting force generated by another twisting direction.
- this technology adopts a tolerant and indulgent approach to the torsion generated by the single yarn, it can be released to a certain extent, instead of relying on the traditional rough heat setting method to solve it, so the original single yarn is retained.
- the twist It will not produce the untwisting effect caused by twisting, and the cohesive force between the fibers is relatively improved, so that the fibers are not easy to slip outward and generate hair balls.
- the traditional single shuttle knitting machine head runs one round trip, forming 2 rows of loops; because this technology adopts dual-system double shuttle knitting, the head runs one round trip, forming 4 loops of loops. Therefore, the production speed is doubled.
- cost saving it is mainly reflected by shortening the process flow (eliminating the merging and twisting process of ply yarn) and reducing the requirements for raw materials.
- spinning costs are also greatly reduced.
- the processing fee for processing one kilogram of 26 single-strand woolen yarn is about 65 yuan per kilogram.
- the processing fee for processing one kilogram of similar specifications, such as 48-count twisted worsted yarn, is about 120 yuan per kilogram.
- the invention overcomes the weft skew problem existing in single-strand yarn weaving, improves the pilling resistance of the pile fabric, and can increase the production speed and reduce the production cost.
- Figure 1 is a schematic diagram of the structure of the braid of the present invention.
- the invention uses double-system computerized flat knitting machine (using conventional knitting computerized flat knitting machine and circular knitting machine) double shuttle knitting.
- the specific operation is to hang one yarn nozzle with a single-strand yarn in the S twist direction, and the other yarn nozzle to hang a single-strand yarn with a Z twist in the opposite direction.
- the two yarn nozzles form a row of alternating knitting one behind the other. As shown in Figure 1, after the S-twisted yarn 1 knits a row (the row of loops is twisted to the left), the Z-twisted yarn 2 immediately forms a loop on the S-twisted yarn (the row of loops is twisted to the right).
- the linear density variation coefficient of the single-strand yarn is controlled to be ⁇ 2%.
- the finished garment weight indexes of different yarns with the same needle type and the same tissue density are shown in Table 1.
- the weight of the finished garment is obtained by using 26/2 cashmere stranded yarn and woven by conventional computer weaving technology.
- the fabric number is Comparative Example 3.
- Example 2 16gg 15 mesh M(175) 148 grams Comparative example 3 12gg 10.5 mesh M(175) 220 grams
- the knitted fabric claimed in this application is obtained by weaving the above-mentioned weaving method. Therefore, it naturally also has the above-mentioned various technical effects and technical advantages, such as a higher pilling resistance level.
- the technical solution of the present invention is not limited to cashmere yarn, and can also be applied to wool and rabbit hair, yak cashmere, camel cashmere, raccoon cashmere, camel cashmere Such as yarns made of all spinnable special animal fibers.
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Abstract
Provided is a knitting process for weaving a single strand pile yarn by means of two-shuttle weaving in a two-system computerized flat knitting machine, comprising passing an S-twisted single strand yarn (1) through a yarn guide, and passing a Z twisted single strand yarn (2) through another yarn guide, the Z-twisted single strand yarn having the same yarn count and twist as the S twisted single strand yarn (1), but the opposite twist direction thereto, and causing the two yarn guides to weave such that one moves in front of the other in an alternating manner. The invention balances internal forces in the resulting knitted fabric by virtue of a twisting force, which is generated in one direction by using one twisting direction, counteracting a twisting force generated in the opposite direction by using another twisting direction, such that weft skewing is corrected at a fundamental level, thereby overcoming the problem of weft skewing associated with single strand yarn weaving and enhancing the pilling resistance of a pile fabric. Moreover, the method of the present invention can increase production speed and reduce production costs.
Description
本发明涉及绒毛纱线编织领域，具体涉及一种绒毛类单股纱线针织编织方法以及由该编织方法编织获得的编织物。The invention relates to the field of knitting of pile yarn, in particular to a knitting and knitting method of pile type single-strand yarn and a knitted fabric obtained by knitting by the knitting method.
现有绒毛类针织产品通常是由两合股或多合股的纱线织造而成的。使用单股纱线一般被认为是不可能的。原因在于一个无法克服的技术障碍--纬斜。纬斜是在编织过程中，织片始终向某一个方向倾斜的现象。发生纬斜的原因是由于被加上捻度的单股纱线内部生成的应力所继发出的一种扭力所造成的。Existing fluffy knitted products are usually woven from two-ply or multi-ply yarns. The use of single-ply yarns is generally considered impossible. The reason lies in an insurmountable technical obstacle-weft skew. Weft skew is the phenomenon that the fabric sheet is always inclined in a certain direction during the knitting process. The weft skew is caused by a torsion force generated by the stress generated in the twisted single strand yarn.
根据捻度大小的不同，织物的纬斜角度一般在15度到30度之间不等。这种纬斜无法通过现有手段予以克服。如，高温定型等方法，只能解一时之需，水洗之后，纬斜会重新出现。从原理上分析，纬斜属于纱线中存在的扭力通过组织变形的方式得到释放的结果。换句话说，扭力的释放是以使织物发生倾斜为代价的。Depending on the twist, the weft angle of the fabric generally ranges from 15 degrees to 30 degrees. This weft deviation cannot be overcome by existing means. For example, high-temperature shaping and other methods can only solve temporary needs. After washing, the weft skew will reappear. Analyzed from the principle, the weft skew is the result of the torsion force in the yarn being released by the way of tissue deformation. In other words, the release of torsion is at the expense of tilting the fabric.
当然，此问题可以通过采用裁剪绷缝的制衣方法解决。但对于羊绒羊毛类价值昂贵的原料来讲，此做法不仅浪费严重，而且降低了产品的做工和档次。亦不可取。Of course, this problem can be solved by the method of cutting interlock sewing. But for the expensive raw materials of cashmere and wool, this approach is not only a serious waste, but also reduces the workmanship and grade of the product. Also undesirable.
使用单股纱编织具有重要的现实价值。首先、用它做出的产品更加轻薄。一件相同规格的单纱织物只相当于合股纱重量的二分之一。它拓展了绒毛产品对季节的适应性，同时节省了原料，降低了成本。其次、如何克服羊绒羊毛针织物的起球问题已经成为该类产品的世纪难题，它困扰着一 代又一代的羊绒从业者。单股纱编织的技术突破将使该类织物的抗起球性能提高1-2个级别。第三、缩短了生产流程，提高了生产效率，降低了加工成本。尤其对于粗纺的单纱产品，可以成为传统精纺产品的最佳替代品。第四、粗纺单纱织物要比传统的合股纱织物纹路更加清晰、平整；同时比传统的合股精纺织物更加蓬松柔软。第五、伴随针织设备进一步向精细化发展，未来20gg以上针型将会被逐渐引入市场。单股纱线可以向新型设备提供最理想的原料。The use of single-strand yarn for weaving has important practical value. First, the products made with it are lighter and thinner. A single yarn fabric of the same specification is only equivalent to one-half of the weight of the plied yarn. It expands the adaptability of fluff products to the season, while saving raw materials and reducing costs. Secondly, how to overcome the problem of pilling of cashmere wool knitted fabrics has become a century-old problem for this type of products, and it has plagued generations of cashmere practitioners. The technological breakthrough of single-strand yarn knitting will increase the anti-pilling performance of this type of fabric by 1-2 levels. Third, the production process is shortened, the production efficiency is improved, and the processing cost is reduced. Especially for woolen single yarn products, it can become the best substitute for traditional worsted products. Fourth, woollen single yarn fabrics have clearer and smoother textures than traditional twisted yarn fabrics; meanwhile, they are more fluffy and softer than traditional twisted worsted fabrics. Fifth, with the further development of knitting equipment, needles above 20gg will be gradually introduced into the market in the future. Single strand yarn can provide the most ideal raw material for new equipment.
因此，如何克服单股纱线编织产生的纬斜问题成为目前行业的重大课题之一。Therefore, how to overcome the weft skew problem caused by single-strand yarn knitting has become one of the major issues in the industry.
发明内容Summary of the invention
本发明的目的是提供一种绒毛类单股纱线针织编织方法，以解决背景技术存在的上述缺陷。The purpose of the present invention is to provide a method for knitting and knitting pile single-ply yarns to solve the above-mentioned defects in the background technology.
本发明是通过如下的技术方案实现的：The present invention is realized through the following technical solutions:
一种绒毛类单股纱线针织编织方法，采用双***电脑横机双梭编织，将一把纱咀穿挂S捻单股纱线，另一把纱咀穿挂与所述S捻单股纱线支数和捻度相同但捻向相反的Z捻单股纱线，然后两把纱咀一前一后交替编织。A method for knitting and knitting wool single-strand yarns, adopts double-system computerized flat knitting machine and double shuttle knitting, one yarn nozzle is threaded with S-twist single-strand yarn, and the other yarn nozzle is threaded with the S-twist single-strand The Z-twisted single-strand yarn with the same yarn count and twist but the opposite twist direction is knitted alternately with two yarn nozzles one after the other.
优选的，所述S捻单股纱线和Z捻单股纱线每种纱线内部的线密度变异系数≤12％，进一步优选为≤2％。Preferably, the linear density variation coefficient of each of the S-twisted single-strand yarn and Z-twisted single-strand yarn is ≤12%, and more preferably ≤2%.
优选的，将所述S捻单股纱线和Z捻单股纱线按重量分为多档，如3档或5档，由重往轻分别为L、M、S，或LL、L、M、S、SS。编织时选用相邻的两档合批使用，相邻两档之间的最大支数差异在8％以内，如：L+M或M+S，或者LL+L或L+M或M+S或S+SS。这样可避免由于支数偏差过大而造成的薄厚档现象。Preferably, the S-twisted single-stranded yarn and Z-twisted single-stranded yarn are divided into multiple gears according to weight, such as 3 gears or 5 gears, from heavy to light as L, M, S, or LL, L, M, S, SS. When knitting, use two adjacent gears in batches, and the maximum count difference between two adjacent gears is within 8%, such as: L+M or M+S, or LL+L or L+M or M+S Or S+SS. In this way, the phenomenon of thin and thick gears caused by excessive deviation of the count can be avoided.
因此，无论是S捻向的纱线，还是Z捻向的纱线，单股纱线的线密度变异系数，或重量CV这个指标需要被控制在≤2％的水平。Therefore, whether it is S twisted yarn or Z twisted yarn, the linear density variation coefficient of single-stranded yarn, or the index of weight CV, needs to be controlled at a level of ≤ 2%.
优选的，所述S捻单股纱线和Z捻单股纱线的强力下限为120-150CN，适用的支数范围为：粗梳15-32NM，精梳32-48CN。Preferably, the lower limit of the strength of the S-twisted single-strand yarn and the Z-twisted single-strand yarn is 120-150CN, and the applicable count range is: 15-32NM for carding and 32-48CN for combing.
优选的，所述电脑横机的针型采用12gg-20gg。Preferably, the needle type of the computerized flat knitting machine adopts 12gg-20gg.
优选的，所述纱线选自羊绒纱线、羊毛纱线，或者以羊绒或羊毛为主要成分的混纺纱线。Preferably, the yarn is selected from cashmere yarn, wool yarn, or blended yarn with cashmere or wool as the main component.
此外，本申请还提供了一种利用上述编织方法编织获得的编织物。In addition, the present application also provides a knitted fabric obtained by weaving the above-mentioned weaving method.
本发明绒毛类单股纱线针织编织方法，简称HS编织法，采用一种捻向所产生的一个方向的扭力去抵消另一种捻向所产生的与之相反的扭力。由此达到组织间内力的平衡，使纬斜现象从根本上得到纠正。此外，由于本技术对单纱所产生的扭力采取了姑息纵容的手段，使其获得某种程度的释放，而不是靠传统的粗暴的热定型方法去解决，因此保留了单股纱线原有的捻度。也不会产生由于合股而造成的退捻效果，相对提高了纤维间的抱合力，使纤维不易向外滑移而生成毛球。The knitting and knitting method of fluff single-strand yarn of the present invention, referred to as HS knitting method, uses a twisting force in one direction generated by one twisting direction to offset the opposite twisting force generated by another twisting direction. As a result, the balance of internal forces between organizations is achieved, and the weft skew phenomenon is fundamentally corrected. In addition, because this technology adopts a tolerant and indulgent approach to the torsion generated by the single yarn, it can be released to a certain extent, instead of relying on the traditional rough heat setting method to solve it, so the original single yarn is retained. The twist. It will not produce the untwisting effect caused by twisting, and the cohesive force between the fibers is relatively improved, so that the fibers are not easy to slip outward and generate hair balls.
传统的单梭编织机头运行一个往返，成圈2行；由于本技术采用双***双梭编织，机头运行一个往返，成圈4行。因此，将生产速度提高了一倍。在节省成本方面，主要是通过缩短了工艺流程(省去了合股纱的并、捻工序)和降低了对原材料的要求而体现的。除此之外，纺纱成本也大大降低。依据目前市场的价格，加工一公斤26支粗纺单股纱的加工费为每公斤65元左右。而加工一公斤相近规格，如48支合股精纺纱的加工费为每公斤120元左右。The traditional single shuttle knitting machine head runs one round trip, forming 2 rows of loops; because this technology adopts dual-system double shuttle knitting, the head runs one round trip, forming 4 loops of loops. Therefore, the production speed is doubled. In terms of cost saving, it is mainly reflected by shortening the process flow (eliminating the merging and twisting process of ply yarn) and reducing the requirements for raw materials. In addition, spinning costs are also greatly reduced. According to the current market price, the processing fee for processing one kilogram of 26 single-strand woolen yarn is about 65 yuan per kilogram. The processing fee for processing one kilogram of similar specifications, such as 48-count twisted worsted yarn, is about 120 yuan per kilogram.
本发明克服了单股纱线编织存在的纬斜问题，提高了绒毛织物的耐起球性能，并且可以提高生产速度，降低生产成本。The invention overcomes the weft skew problem existing in single-strand yarn weaving, improves the pilling resistance of the pile fabric, and can increase the production speed and reduce the production cost.
附图是用来提供对本发明的进一步理解，并且构成说明书的一部分，与下面的具体实施方式一起用于解释本发明，但并不构成对本发明的限制。 在附图中：The accompanying drawings are used to provide a further understanding of the present invention and constitute a part of the specification. Together with the following specific embodiments, they are used to explain the present invention, but do not constitute a limitation to the present invention. In the attached picture:
图1是本发明编织物的结构示意图。Figure 1 is a schematic diagram of the structure of the braid of the present invention.
以下结合附图对本发明的具体实施方式进行详细说明。应当理解的是，此处所描述的具体实施方式仅用于说明和解释本发明，并不用于限制本发明。The specific embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings. It should be understood that the specific embodiments described here are only used to illustrate and explain the present invention, and are not used to limit the present invention.
本发明使用双***电脑横机(采用常规针织电脑横机及圆机)双梭编织。具体操作为，将一把纱咀穿挂S捻向的单股纱线，另一把纱咀穿挂与之捻向相反的Z捻单股纱线。两把纱咀一前一后形成一行交替编织。如图1所示，S捻纱线1编织一行后(此行线圈向左扭斜)，Z捻纱线2紧接着在S捻纱线上形成线圈(此行线圈向右扭斜)。The invention uses double-system computerized flat knitting machine (using conventional knitting computerized flat knitting machine and circular knitting machine) double shuttle knitting. The specific operation is to hang one yarn nozzle with a single-strand yarn in the S twist direction, and the other yarn nozzle to hang a single-strand yarn with a Z twist in the opposite direction. The two yarn nozzles form a row of alternating knitting one behind the other. As shown in Figure 1, after the S-twisted yarn 1 knits a row (the row of loops is twisted to the left), the Z-twisted yarn 2 immediately forms a loop on the S-twisted yarn (the row of loops is twisted to the right).
实施例中单股纱线的线密度变异系数均控制在≤2％。In the embodiments, the linear density variation coefficient of the single-strand yarn is controlled to be ≤2%.
实施例1Example 1
选用26/1羊绒单股纱，强力为150CN，将S捻单股纱线和Z捻单股纱线按重量分别分为3档，由重往轻分别为L、M、S(或者分为5档，由重往轻分别为LL、L、M、S、SS)，将M和S两档合批使用。采用18gg针型的电脑横机织造，具体是将一把纱咀穿挂S捻向的单股纱线，另一把纱咀穿挂与之捻向相反的Z捻单股纱线。两把纱咀一前一后形成一行交替编织。Use 26/1 cashmere single-strand yarn with a strength of 150CN. Divide S-twist single-strand yarn and Z-twist single-strand yarn into 3 grades by weight, from heavy to light as L, M, S (or divided into There are 5 gears, LL, L, M, S, SS from heavier to lighter), and the M and S gears are used in batches. The 18gg needle type computerized flat knitting machine is used for weaving. Specifically, one yarn nozzle is pierced with S-twist single-strand yarn, and the other yarn nozzle is pierced with Z-twist single-strand yarn with the opposite twist direction. The two yarn nozzles form a row of alternating knitting one behind the other.
对比例1-2Comparative example 1-2
分别选用48/2精梳羊绒合股纱、68/3精梳美利奴羊毛合股纱，采用同针型、同密度的常规电脑编织工艺，得到不同的成衣重量。织物分别编号为对比例1、对比例2。48/2 combed cashmere ply yarn and 68/3 combed merino wool ply yarn are selected respectively, and the same needle type and density conventional computer knitting process is adopted to obtain different garment weights. The fabrics are numbered as Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 2.
同针型、同组织密度的不同纱线的成衣重量指标，详见表1。The finished garment weight indexes of different yarns with the same needle type and the same tissue density are shown in Table 1.
表1Table 1
| 样品sample | 针型Needle type | 组织密度Tissue density | 规格specification | 成衣克重Garment weight |
| 实施例1Example 1 | 18gg18gg | 17.5目17.5 mesh | M(175)M(175) | 165克165 grams |
| 对比例1Comparative example 1 | 18gg18gg | 17.5目17.5 mesh | M(175)M(175) | 186克186 grams |
| 对比例2Comparative example 2 | 18gg18gg | 17.5目17.5 mesh | M(175)M(175) | 180克180 grams |
实施例2Example 2
选用26/1羊绒单股纱，强力为150CN，将S捻单股纱线和Z捻单股纱线按重量分别分为5档，由重往轻分别为LL、L、M、S、SS，将LL和L两档合批使用。采用16gg针型的电脑横机织造，具体是将一把纱咀穿挂S捻向的单股纱线，另一把纱咀穿挂与之捻向相反的Z捻单股纱线。两把纱咀一前一后形成一行交替编织。Use 26/1 cashmere single-strand yarn with a strength of 150CN. Divide S-twist single-strand yarn and Z-twist single-strand yarn into 5 levels by weight, from heavier to lighter as LL, L, M, S, SS , The LL and L files are used in batches. 16gg needle type computerized flat knitting machine is used for weaving. Specifically, one yarn nozzle is pierced with S-twist single-strand yarn, and the other yarn nozzle is pierced with Z-twist single-strand yarn with the opposite twist direction. The two yarn nozzles form a row of alternating knitting one behind the other.
对比例3Comparative example 3
选用26/2羊绒合股纱线，采用常规电脑编织工艺织造，得到的成衣重量。织物编号为对比例3。The weight of the finished garment is obtained by using 26/2 cashmere stranded yarn and woven by conventional computer weaving technology. The fabric number is Comparative Example 3.
相同原料和支数，单股纱和合股纱的成衣重量指标，详见表2。With the same raw material and count, the weight indexes of single-ply yarn and ply yarn are shown in Table 2.
表2Table 2
| 实施例2Example 2 | 16gg16gg | 15目15 mesh | M(175)M(175) | 148克148 grams |
| 对比例3Comparative example 3 | 12gg12gg | 10.5目10.5 mesh | M(175)M(175) | 220克220 grams |
从表1和表2的结果可以得出结论，用本发明制成的产品更加轻薄，拓展了绒毛产品对季节的适应性，同时节省了原料，降低了成本。From the results in Table 1 and Table 2, it can be concluded that the products made by the present invention are lighter and thinner, which expands the adaptability of fluff products to seasons, saves raw materials and reduces costs.
实施例3Example 3
选用26/1羊绒单股纱，捻度500tpm，采用18gg针型的电脑横机织造，具体是将一把纱咀穿挂S捻向的单股纱线，另一把纱咀穿挂与之捻向相反 的Z捻单股纱线。两把纱咀一前一后形成一行交替编织。Use 26/1 cashmere single-strand yarn with a twist of 500tpm, and weave with an 18gg needle type computerized flat knitting machine. Specifically, one yarn nozzle is threaded with a single strand yarn in the S twist direction, and the other yarn nozzle is threaded with it. Z-twisted single strand yarn in the opposite direction. The two yarn nozzles form a row of alternating knitting one behind the other.
对比例4Comparative example 4
选用26/1羊绒单股纱，捻度500tpm，采用18gg针型的电脑横机织造，只用一把纱咀和穿一个捻向的纱线。Use 26/1 cashmere single-strand yarn with a twist of 500tpm, woven with an 18gg needle type computerized flat knitting machine, using only one yarn nozzle and one twisted yarn.
采用GB/T 14801-2009《机织物与针织物纬斜和弓纬试验方法》测定样品的纬斜率。实施例3和对比例4的纬斜结果，见表3。GB/T 14801-2009 "Test Method for Weft Skew and Bow of Woven and Knitted Fabrics" was used to determine the weft slope of the sample. The weft skew results of Example 3 and Comparative Example 4 are shown in Table 3.
表3table 3
| 样品sample | 捻度tpmTwist tpm | 纬斜率％Weft slope% |
| 实施例3Example 3 | 500500 | 0.15％0.15% |
| 对比例4Comparative example 4 | 500500 | 30％30% |
从表3的结果可以看出，本发明克服了单股纱线编织存在的纬斜问题。It can be seen from the results in Table 3 that the present invention overcomes the weft skew problem of single-strand yarn weaving.
依照GB/T4802.3-2008《纺织品织物起毛起球性能的测定第3部分：起球箱法》检测样品的耐起球性。实施例3和对比例1、对比例3的对比结果参见表4。Test the pilling resistance of the samples according to GB/T4802.3-2008 "Determination of Pilling Performance of Textile Fabrics Part 3: Pilling Box Method". See Table 4 for the comparison results of Example 3 and Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 3.
表4Table 4
| 样品sample | 起球箱转速和时间Pilling box speed and time | 起球评级Pilling rating |
| 实施例3Example 3 | 7200转x2小时7200 rpm x 2 hours | 44 |
| 对比例1Comparative example 1 |
14400转x4小时14400 rpm x 4 |
22 |
| 对比例3Comparative example 3 | 7200转x2小时7200 rpm x 2 hours | 2.5-32.5-3 |
从表4的检测结果可以看出，本发明提高了绒毛织物的耐起球级别。It can be seen from the test results in Table 4 that the present invention improves the pilling resistance level of the pile fabric.
本申请所要求保护的编织物，利用上述编织方法编织获得。因此，自然也同样具有上述各种技术效果和技术优势，例如具有较高的耐起球级别。The knitted fabric claimed in this application is obtained by weaving the above-mentioned weaving method. Therefore, it naturally also has the above-mentioned various technical effects and technical advantages, such as a higher pilling resistance level.
另外，虽然上述各个实施例中主要以羊绒为例进行描述的，但本发明 的技术方案并不限于羊绒纱线，还可以适用于羊毛以及兔毛、牦牛绒、驼绒、貉子绒、驼羊绒等所有具有可纺性的特种动物纤维制成的纱线。In addition, although the above embodiments are mainly described with cashmere as an example, the technical solution of the present invention is not limited to cashmere yarn, and can also be applied to wool and rabbit hair, yak cashmere, camel cashmere, raccoon cashmere, camel cashmere Such as yarns made of all spinnable special animal fibers.
以上显示和描述了本发明的基本原理、主要特征及本发明的优点。本行业的技术人员应该了解，本发明不受上述实施例的限制，上述实施例和说明书中描述的只是说明本发明的原理，在不脱离本发明精神和范围的前提下，本发明还会有各种变化和改进，这些变化和改进都落入要求保护的本发明范围内。本发明要求保护范围由所附的权利要求书及其等效物界定。The basic principles, main features and advantages of the present invention have been shown and described above. Those skilled in the industry should understand that the present invention is not limited by the foregoing embodiments. The foregoing embodiments and descriptions only illustrate the principles of the present invention. Without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention, the present invention will have Various changes and improvements, these changes and improvements all fall within the scope of the claimed invention. The scope of protection claimed by the present invention is defined by the appended claims and their equivalents.
以上结合附图详细描述了本发明的优选实施方式，但是，本发明并不限于上述实施方式中的具体细节，在本发明的技术构思范围内，可以对本发明的技术方案进行多种简单变型，这些简单变型均属于本发明的保护范围。The preferred embodiments of the present invention are described in detail above with reference to the accompanying drawings. However, the present invention is not limited to the specific details in the above embodiments. Within the scope of the technical concept of the present invention, many simple modifications can be made to the technical solutions of the present invention. These simple modifications belong to the protection scope of the present invention.
另外需要说明的是，在上述具体实施方式中所描述的各个具体技术特征，在不矛盾的情况下，可以通过任何合适的方式进行组合，为了避免不必要的重复，本发明对各种可能的组合方式不再另行说明。In addition, it should be noted that the various specific technical features described in the above-mentioned specific embodiments can be combined in any suitable manner without contradiction. In order to avoid unnecessary repetition, the present invention is The combination method will not be explained separately.
此外，本发明的各种不同的实施方式之间也可以进行任意组合，只要其不违背本发明的思想，其同样应当视为本发明所公开的内容。In addition, various different embodiments of the present invention can also be combined arbitrarily, as long as they do not violate the idea of the present invention, they should also be regarded as the content disclosed in the present invention.
Claims (9)
- 一种绒毛类单股纱线针织编织方法，其特征在于，采用双***电脑横机双梭编织，将一把纱咀穿挂S捻单股纱线，另一把纱咀穿挂与所述S捻单股纱线支数和捻度相同但捻向相反的Z捻单股纱线，然后两把纱咀一前一后交替编织。A knitting and knitting method for pile single-strand yarn, which is characterized in that a double-system computerized flat knitting machine is used for double-shuttle knitting, one yarn nozzle is threaded with S-twist single-strand yarn, and the other yarn nozzle is threaded with the said S-twist single-strand yarn with the same count and twist but opposite twist direction of Z-twist single-strand yarn, and then two yarn nozzles are alternately knitted one after the other.
- 根据权利要求1所述的方法，其特征在于，所述S捻单股纱线和Z捻单股纱线每种纱线内部的线密度变异系数≤12％，优选为≤2％。The method according to claim 1, wherein the linear density variation coefficient of each of the S-twisted single-stranded yarn and Z-twisted single-stranded yarn is ≤12%, preferably ≤2%.
- 根据权利要求1所述的方法，其特征在于，将所述S捻单股纱线或者Z捻单股纱线按重量分为多档，选用相邻的两档合批使用，相邻两档之间的最大支数差异在8％以内。The method according to claim 1, wherein the S-twisted single-strand yarn or Z-twisted single-strand yarn is divided into multiple grades by weight, and two adjacent grades are selected for batch use, and two adjacent grades The maximum difference between the counts is within 8%.
- 根据权利要求3所述的方法，其特征在于，将所述S捻单股纱线或者Z捻单股纱线按重量分为三档，由重往轻分别为L、M、S；或者将所述S捻单股纱线或者Z捻单股纱线按重量分为五档，由重往轻分别为LL、L、M、S、SS。The method according to claim 3, characterized in that the S-twisted single-strand yarn or Z-twisted single-strand yarn is divided into three levels by weight, from heavier to lighter as L, M, and S; or The S-twisted single-strand yarn or Z-twisted single-strand yarn is divided into five grades by weight, from heavier to lighter as LL, L, M, S, and SS.
- 根据权利要求1所述的方法，其特征在于，所述S捻单股纱线和Z捻单股纱线的强力下限为120-150CN。The method according to claim 1, wherein the lower limit of the strength of the S-twist single-strand yarn and the Z-twist single-strand yarn is 120-150 CN.
- 根据权利要求1所述的方法，其特征在于，所述S捻单股纱线和Z捻单股纱线的支数为粗梳15-32NM，精梳32-48CN。The method according to claim 1, wherein the counts of the S-twist single-strand yarn and Z-twist single-strand yarn are 15-32NM for carding and 32-48CN for combing.
- 根据权利要求1所述的方法，其特征在于，所述电脑横机的针型采 用12gg-20gg。The method according to claim 1, wherein the needle type of the computerized flat knitting machine adopts 12gg-20gg.
- 根据权利要求1所述的方法，其特征在于，所述纱线选自羊绒纱线、羊毛纱线，或者以羊绒或羊毛为主要成分的混纺纱线。The method according to claim 1, wherein the yarn is selected from cashmere yarn, wool yarn, or blended yarn with cashmere or wool as the main component.
- 一种编织物，其特征在于，该编织物由权利要求1-8中任意一项所述的编织方法编织获得。A braided fabric, characterized in that the braided fabric is knitted by the weaving method according to any one of claims 1-8.
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