WO2009044040A1 - Use of boerhavia diffusa extract for skin relief - Google Patents

Use of boerhavia diffusa extract for skin relief Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2009044040A1
WO2009044040A1 PCT/FR2008/051570 FR2008051570W WO2009044040A1 WO 2009044040 A1 WO2009044040 A1 WO 2009044040A1 FR 2008051570 W FR2008051570 W FR 2008051570W WO 2009044040 A1 WO2009044040 A1 WO 2009044040A1
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Prior art keywords
extract
skin
boerhavia diffusa
content
cosmetic
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PCT/FR2008/051570
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French (fr)
Inventor
Jean Paufique
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Societe Industrielle Limousine D'application Biologique, Dite Silab
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Publication of WO2009044040A1 publication Critical patent/WO2009044040A1/en

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74—Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/75—Anti-irritant

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a purified extract of Boerhavia diffusa rich in hydroxybenzoic compounds, as active ingredient for a soothing cosmetic activity of the skin.
  • the invention also relates to a process for obtaining a purified extract of Boerhavia diffusa, to the active principle obtained by this process, as well as to cosmetic compositions including a Boerhavia diffusa extract and to a cosmetic process.
  • Sensitive skin is a very common cosmetic disorder, which mainly affects the skin of the face, but can also reach other areas of the body.
  • the objective of the present invention is to soothe and improve the cutaneous comfort of sensitive skin.
  • the invention aims at the cosmetic use of a purified extract of Boerhavia diffusa, rich in hydroxybenzoic compounds, as active principle for the preparation of a cosmetic composition, said extract of Boerhavia diffusa and / or the composition including it is intended to soothe the skin and increase skin comfort.
  • Boerh ⁇ vi ⁇ diffusa also known as "Punarnava” or "Erva Tostâo"
  • Boerh ⁇ vi ⁇ diffusa also known as "Punarnava” or "Erva Tostâo”
  • Boerh ⁇ vi ⁇ diffusa also known as "Punarnava” or "Erva Tostâo”
  • Boerh ⁇ vi ⁇ diffusa also known as "Punarnava” or "Erva Tostâo”
  • Boerhavia diffusa The known uses of Boerhavia diffusa are culinary and medicinal: treatment of the disease "Batteries" in the Himalayas, fight against dysentery in Madhya Pradesh, fight against leucorrhea, rheumatism and stomach upset in Tamil Pradesh, cleaning the renal system, treatment of seminal weaknesses and blood pressure in Nepal, and finally fight against asthma, urinary problems and internal inflammation disorders.
  • Boerhavia diffusa contains eupalithin glycoside which has an anti-inflammatory action.
  • no cosmetic application is known.
  • Boerhavia diffusa has remarkable properties in the skin.
  • a purified extract of Boerhavia diffusa rich in hydroxybenzoic compounds and devoid of eupalithin glycoside is extremely effective as an active ingredient in a cosmetic composition to soothe the skin attacked, to fight against cutaneous neurogenic inflammation for example by reducing sensations of tingling of the skin and / or decreasing skin rashes.
  • Cutaneous sensitivity corresponds to a lowering of the threshold of tolerance of the skin to usually tolerated physical or chemical stimuli, such as environmental factors (temperature variation, sun, pollution, etc.), internal factors (emotions, menstrual cycles, diet, etc.), or the application of certain topical products.
  • physical or chemical stimuli such as environmental factors (temperature variation, sun, pollution, etc.), internal factors (emotions, menstrual cycles, diet, etc.), or the application of certain topical products.
  • the critical threshold of tolerance When the critical threshold of tolerance is exceeded, the skin exposed daily to various stimuli, triggers via its immuno-cutaneous system an organized and non-specific biological response.
  • This response or inflammatory reaction is a complex and crucial process: it must be both effective to allow the skin to resist external aggressions and maintain its integrity, and measured to prevent the appearance of tissue damage. This delicate balance is ensured by the action of pro and anti-inflammatory mediators.
  • keratinocytes When the threshold to the various stimuli that the skin undergoes daily is exceeded, the keratinocytes, equipped with nociceptive receivers perceive the stress. Thus activated, keratinocytes locally initiate the inflammatory reaction via the release of initial mediators such as cytokines interleukins-la (IL-Ia) and Tumor Necrosis a (TNF-a). These two initial mediators will propagate and amplify the inflammatory reaction in two ways. The first pathway induces an immediate cellular response, namely the activation of lipid mediators of inflammation, leukotrienes (LT) and prostaglandins (PG) formation enzymes, in particular prostaglandins E2 (PGE2). These lipid mediators cause a series of fall and paracrine effects through specific receptors. They contribute in particular to vasodilatation, adhesion and cell migration.
  • initial mediators such as cytokines interleukins-la (IL-Ia) and Tumor Necrosis a (
  • the second transduction pathway involves transcription factors, such as Nuclear Factor KB (NF-KB), which induce the synthesis of cytokines, proinflammatory molecules.
  • NF-KB Nuclear Factor KB
  • NF-ÎoB is a cytoplasmic heterodimer linked to a specific inhibitor, the IKB protein. Phosphorylation of IKB activates NF-ÎoB which is transferred from the cytoplasm to the nucleus of the cell and activates transcription of genes encoding cytokines, chemokines and adhesion molecules involved in inflammatory responses.
  • NF-KB Nuclear Factor KB
  • ⁇ -MSH a-Melanocyte Stimulating Hormone
  • the present invention proposes to use an active ingredient capable both of limiting the amplification of the inflammatory reaction by reducing the release of pro-inflammatory mediators, and of acting on the neurogenic inflammation. by stimulating the production of an anti-inflammatory neurohormone.
  • the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a Boerhavia diffusa extract, having a content of hydroxybenzoic compounds greater than 50% of the total polyphenols, as active ingredient, in a cosmetic composition, capable of: limit the amplification of the inflammatory reaction by reducing the release of pro-inflammatory mediators PGE2 and by decreasing the activation of NF- ⁇ B, and
  • the useful extract according to the invention is devoid of eupalithin glycoside.
  • an extract of Boerhavia diffusa makes it possible to fight against cutaneous inflammation and skin discomfort phenomena in sensitive skin.
  • the invention provides a cosmetic composition for soothing the skin and increasing skin comfort, containing an extract of Boerhavia diffusa, having a content of hydroxybenzoic compounds greater than 50% of the total polyphenols as active principle.
  • composition according to the invention may contain from 0.01 to 20% of at least one Boerhavia diffusa extract, having a content of hydroxybenzoic compounds greater than 50%.
  • the administration of such a composition is preferably carried out topically.
  • the composition according to the invention can be in the form of creams, oil-clans-water emulsions, water-in-oil or multiple emulsions, solutions, suspensions or powders.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic process intended to soothe the skin and to increase skin comfort, to fight against an inflammation of the skin, to reduce tingling sensations of the skin, to reduce skin rashes, and / or to soothe the aggressed skin, consisting of applying topically to the skin a composition containing at least one extract of Boerhavia diffusa, having a content of hydroxybenzoic compounds greater than 50%.
  • a cosmetic process intended to soothe the skin and to increase skin comfort, to fight against an inflammation of the skin, to reduce tingling sensations of the skin, to reduce skin rashes, and / or to soothe the aggressed skin, consisting of applying topically to the skin a composition containing at least one extract of Boerhavia diffusa, having a content of hydroxybenzoic compounds greater than 50%.
  • the process for obtaining comprises the following succession of steps: solubilization of Boerhavia diffusa root powder in a 50/50 water / butylene glycol mixture ,
  • the hydrolysis (s) are carried out using at least one carbohydrase type enzyme, chosen from known carbohydrases, available commercially.
  • carbohydrase type enzyme chosen from known carbohydrases, available commercially.
  • the solids content is measured by passing the oven at 105 ° C. in the presence of sand of a sample of initial weight given until a constant weight is obtained.
  • the solids content is between 5 and 250 g / l, more particularly between 15 and 35 g / l.
  • the pH measured by the potentiometric method at ambient temperature leads to values between 2 and 7, more particularly between 4 and 5.
  • the assay is performed by reading the staining intensity in the presence of potassium ferricyanide, detectable intensity at 715 nm and compared to a standard range of gallic acid.
  • the level of total polyphenols is between 0.07 and 4.0 g / l, more particularly between 0.20 to 0.55 g / l.
  • the chromatogram of the active principle according to the invention shows the presence of hydroxycinnamic, hydroxybenzoic and flavonoid compounds, the proportions being substantially of the order of the values given in the following table:
  • a chemical compound is used so as to eliminate all the polyphenols of the active principle according to the invention.
  • the active principle according to the invention has an inhibitory activity of the release of the pro-inflammatory mediator
  • This study aims to evaluate the effect of a Boerhavia diffusa extract rich in hydroxybenzoic compounds according to the invention, on the release of PGE2 during arachidonic acid-induced inflammation of the skin cells (AA ).
  • the study is carried out on cultures of human keratinocytes subjected to inflammation caused by treatment with AA.
  • the effect of the active ingredient is evaluated on its ability to limit the inflammation generated by I 1 AA by measuring by Elisa assay the rate of PGE2 released.
  • the operating protocol is as follows.
  • cells are treated with 2.5 ⁇ M of AA diluted in a culture medium in the presence of an extract of Boerhavia diffusa according to the invention at 0.5%, 1% or 2% or in the presence of salicylic acid at 1% used as a positive control.
  • the purpose of this study is to evaluate the effect of a Boerhavia diffusa extract rich in hydroxybenzoic compounds according to the invention on the activation of the NF-ÎoB transcription factor during inflammation of the skin cells induced by phorbol esters (TPA).
  • the study is performed on normal human keratinocyte cultures subjected to inflammation caused by treatment with phorbol esters (TPA: 12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol-13-acetate).
  • TPA 12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol-13-acetate
  • the effect of the active ingredient is evaluated on its ability to limit inflammation by visualizing the translocation of NF- ⁇ B from the nucleus to the cytoplasm of human keratinocytes by immunocytofluorescence. This translocation corresponds to the activation of NF- ⁇ B.
  • the operating protocol is as follows. At J1, human keratinocytes are seeded on glass slides in culture medium and incubated at 37 ° C for 2 days.
  • the culture medium is removed and the cells are treated with a diffused Boerhavia extract according to the invention at 0.5%; 1% or 2% diluted in a culture medium.
  • the cells are incubated at 37 ° C for 24 hours.
  • the culture medium is removed and replaced by a medium containing TPA (12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol-13-acetate) to induce inflammation and a Boerhavia diffusa extract according to the invention at 0.5%, 1 % or 2%.
  • TPA 12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol-13-acetate
  • NF-ÎoB and immunostaining is visualized on a microscope coupled to an image analysis system.
  • the visualization of the NF- ⁇ B translocation from the cytoplasm to the nucleus is proportional to the intensity of red staining present in the keratinocyte nuclei.
  • the immunocytological results being qualitative, 4 levels of NF- ⁇ B expression were defined:
  • the objective of this study is to evaluate the capacity of a Boerhavia diffusa extract rich in hydroxybenzoic compounds according to the invention, to stimulate the synthesis of the ⁇ -Melanocyte Stimulating Hormone ( ⁇ -MSH), an anti-inflammatory neuromediator secreted by human keratinocytes.
  • ⁇ -MSH ⁇ -Melanocyte Stimulating Hormone
  • the culture medium is removed and the keratinocytes are treated with a culture medium in which is diluted a Boerhavia diffusa extract according to the invention to 0.5% or 1%.
  • the cells are then incubated at 37 ° C for 24 hours.
  • the culture medium is removed and the keratinocytes are treated with a culture medium in which is diluted a Boerhavia diffusa extract according to the invention to 0.5% or 1%.
  • the cells are subjected to UVB irradiation. After irradiation, the buffer is removed and replaced by culture medium in which is diluted Boerhavia diffusa extract according to the invention to 0.5% and 1%.
  • the cells are then incubated at 37 ° C for 24 hours. At day 5, at the end of the incubation, the culture media are recovered and concentrated.
  • the assay for ⁇ -MSH is then performed using an ELISA kit.
  • a Boerhavia diffusa extract rich in 1% hydroxybenzoic compounds according to the invention enhances the anti-inflammatory protection of the cell by stimulating the synthesis of ⁇ -MSH.
  • the stimulation of ⁇ -MSH is inferior to the inflammatory model compared to the non-inflammatory model. This could be due to the competition between pro and anti-inflammatory processes implemented simultaneously during UV inflammation. 3-4 / Evaluation of the soothing effect in vivo
  • Boerhavia diffusa rich in hydroxybenzoic compounds according to the invention formulated at 4% in emulsion, by carrying out a tingling test, known under the name of "stinging test”.
  • This test consists in determining and perceiving the tingling sensation caused by the application of a capsaicin solution at the level of the wings of the nose.
  • the application of capsaicin leads to a release of neurotransmitters by the peripheral nerve endings and causes the appearance of uncomfortable sensations such as tingling, burning, itching, possibly associated with the appearance of redness on the application area.
  • the study is carried out on 16 healthy volunteers, according to the experimental protocol that follows.
  • a first stinging test is first performed to select volunteers with sensitive skin.
  • the selected volunteers apply daily either a placebo or an extract of Boerhavia diffusa according to the invention formulated at 4% in emulsion.
  • a stinging test is performed again, like the one performed before the treatment.
  • the aim of this study is to evaluate in vivo the ability of a Boerhavia diffusa extract rich in hydroxybenzoic compounds according to the invention, formulated at 4% in emulsion, to reduce the sensitivity of the skin to aggression with a solution. capsaicin, neurogenic substance.
  • Boerhavia diffusa rich in hydroxybenzoic compounds according to the invention formulated at 4% gel-emulsified, after a mechanical aggression type shaving.
  • the immediate post-shave effect is studied against placebo, in the cheeks.
  • the study is conducted on 27 healthy male volunteers.
  • the immediate soothing effect is assessed by analyzing digital photographs and evaluating the sensations perceived by the volunteers using a questionnaire.
  • the operating protocol is as follows.
  • the chromameter converts colors in the human perception range into a numeric code consisting of three parameters, including the parameter a which corresponds to the range from green to red. From D-14 to OJ, volunteers should not apply any cream to the face. At OJ, chromameters are taken at two symmetrical cutaneous areas of the neck before and after shaving.
  • the placebo or the emulsion containing the extract according to the invention are applied once a day after shaving daily.
  • chromametric measurements are made on the zones studied before and after shaving.
  • the volunteers also answer the self-assessment questionnaire.
  • the present invention also covers cosmetic compositions including an extract of Boerhavia diffusa rich in hydroxybenzoic compounds, in various galenic forms, in particular gel, solution, emulsion, cream ....
  • the stability is characterized by an absence of precipitation of the extract, an absence of creaming and an absence of phase shift.
  • Formulations which have shown a physical stability including 5% of an active principle, extracted from Boerhavia diffusa according to the invention.
  • Nonionic emulsion - Montane 60 2.0%

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Abstract

The invention relates to the use of a purified Boerhavia diffusa extract that is rich in hydroxybenzoic compounds, as an active ingredient in the preparation of a cosmetic composition for skin relief and for increasing skin comfort. The invention also relates to a method for obtaining a Boerhavia diffusa extract, to the extract thus obtained and to cosmetic compositions containing a Boerhavia diffusa extract, and to a cosmetic method.

Description

UTILISATION D'UN EXTRAIT DE BOERHAVIA DIFFUSA POUR APAISER USE OF A BOERHAVIA DIFFUSA EXTRACT FOR SOOTHING
LA PEAUTHE SKIN
La présente invention concerne l'utilisation cosmétique d'un extrait purifié de Boerhavia diffusa riche en composés hydroxybenzoïques, en tant que principe actif pour une activité cosmétique apaisante de la peau.The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a purified extract of Boerhavia diffusa rich in hydroxybenzoic compounds, as active ingredient for a soothing cosmetic activity of the skin.
L'invention se rapporte également à un procédé d'obtention d'un extrait purifié de Boerhavia diffusa, au principe actif obtenu par ce procédé, ainsi qu'à des compositions cosmétiques incluant un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa et à un procédé cosmétique.The invention also relates to a process for obtaining a purified extract of Boerhavia diffusa, to the active principle obtained by this process, as well as to cosmetic compositions including a Boerhavia diffusa extract and to a cosmetic process.
La peau sensible est un désordre cosmétique très fréquent, qui touche essentiellement la peau du visage, mais qui peut atteindre également d'autres zones du corps.Sensitive skin is a very common cosmetic disorder, which mainly affects the skin of the face, but can also reach other areas of the body.
Les individus à peau sensible, se plaignent de signes d'inconfort cutané qui se traduisent par des sensations désagréables d'échauffements, de brûlures, de picotements, de fourmillements ou de démangeaisons, associés parfois à des rougeurs fugaces. C'est pourquoi l'objectif de la présente invention est d'apaiser et d'améliorer le confort cutané des peaux sensibles.People with sensitive skin, complain of signs of skin discomfort that result in unpleasant sensations of heating, burning, tingling, tingling or itching, sometimes associated with fleeting redness. This is why the objective of the present invention is to soothe and improve the cutaneous comfort of sensitive skin.
Pour y répondre, l'invention vise l'utilisation cosmétique d'un extrait purifié de Boerhavia diffusa, riche en composés hydroxybenzoïques, en tant que principe actif pour la préparation d'une composition cosmétique, ledit extrait de Boerhavia diffusa et/ou la composition l'incluant étant destinée à apaiser la peau et à augmenter le confort cutané. Le Boerhαviα diffusa, également connu sous le nom « Punarnava » ou « Erva Tostâo », est une plante traditionnellement utilisée en médecine ayurvédique. Présente notamment dans l'Himalaya, elle est très populaire en Inde tant pour ses feuilles, que ses racines et ses graines. Elle est également utilisée dans d'autres pays d'Asie, d'Afrique et d'Amérique du Sud dont le Brésil.To answer them, the invention aims at the cosmetic use of a purified extract of Boerhavia diffusa, rich in hydroxybenzoic compounds, as active principle for the preparation of a cosmetic composition, said extract of Boerhavia diffusa and / or the composition including it is intended to soothe the skin and increase skin comfort. Boerhαviα diffusa, also known as "Punarnava" or "Erva Tostâo", is a plant traditionally used in Ayurvedic medicine. Present in particular in the Himalayas, it is very popular in India for its leaves, roots and seeds. It is also used in other countries in Asia, Africa and South America including Brazil.
Les utilisations connues de Boerhavia diffusa sont culinaires et médicinales : traitement de la maladie « Piles » dans l'Himalaya, lutte contre la dysenterie au Madhya Pradesh, lutte contre la leucorrhée, les rhumatismes et les maux d'estomac en Uttar Pradesh, nettoyage du système rénal, traitement des faiblesses séminales et pression sanguine au Népal, et enfin lutte contre l'asthme, les problèmes urinaires et les désordres d'inflammation interne. En pharmacopée indienne, le Boerhavia diffusa contient de l'eupalithine glycoside qui a une action anti-inflammatoire. En revanche, aucune application cosmétique n'est connue. Or, de façon surprenante, le Boerhavia diffusa présente des propriétés remarquables au niveau de la peau.The known uses of Boerhavia diffusa are culinary and medicinal: treatment of the disease "Batteries" in the Himalayas, fight against dysentery in Madhya Pradesh, fight against leucorrhea, rheumatism and stomach upset in Uttar Pradesh, cleaning the renal system, treatment of seminal weaknesses and blood pressure in Nepal, and finally fight against asthma, urinary problems and internal inflammation disorders. In Indian pharmacopoeia, Boerhavia diffusa contains eupalithin glycoside which has an anti-inflammatory action. On the other hand, no cosmetic application is known. Surprisingly, Boerhavia diffusa has remarkable properties in the skin.
En particulier, il s'avère qu'un extrait purifié de Boerhavia diffusa riche en composés hydroxybenzoïques et dépourvu d'eupalithine glycoside est extrêmement efficace en tant que principe actif dans une composition cosmétique pour apaiser la peau agressée, pour lutter contre une inflammation neurogénique cutanée, par exemple en réduisant des sensations de picotement de la peau et/ou diminuant des érythèmes cutanés.In particular, it turns out that a purified extract of Boerhavia diffusa rich in hydroxybenzoic compounds and devoid of eupalithin glycoside is extremely effective as an active ingredient in a cosmetic composition to soothe the skin attacked, to fight against cutaneous neurogenic inflammation for example by reducing sensations of tingling of the skin and / or decreasing skin rashes.
La sensibilité cutanée correspond à un abaissement du seuil de tolérance de la peau à des stimuli physiques ou chimiques habituellement tolérés, tels que des facteurs environnementaux (variation de température, soleil, pollution, etc.), des facteurs internes (émotions, cycles menstruels, alimentation, etc.), ou encore l'application de certains produits topiques. Lorsque le seuil critique de tolérance est dépassé, la peau exposée quotidiennement à divers stimuli, déclenche via son système immuno-cutané une réponse biologique organisée et non spécifique. Cette réponse ou réaction inflammatoire est un processus complexe et crucial : elle doit être à la fois efficace pour permettre à la peau de résister aux agressions extérieures et maintenir son intégrité, et mesurée pour éviter l'apparition de lésions tissulaires. Cet équilibre délicat est assuré par l'action de médiateurs pro- et antiinflammatoires. Lorsque le seuil aux divers stimuli que subit quotidiennement la peau est dépassé, les kératinocytes, équipés de récepteurs nociceptifs perçoivent le stress. Ainsi activés, les kératinocytes initient localement la réaction inflammatoire via la libération de médiateurs initiaux tels que les cytokines interleukines-la (IL-Ia) et le Tumor Necrosis a (TNF-a). Ces deux médiateurs initiaux vont propager et amplifier la réaction inflammatoire selon deux voies. La première voie induit une réponse cellulaire immédiate, à savoir l'activation des enzymes de formation des médiateurs lipidiques de l'inflammation, des leucotriènes (LT) et des prostaglandines (PG), en particulier les prostaglandines E2 (PGE2). Ces médiateurs lipidiques provoquent une série d'effets automnes et paracrines par l'intermédiaire de récepteurs spécifiques. Ils contribuent notamment à la vasodilatation, l'adhésion et la migration cellulaire.Cutaneous sensitivity corresponds to a lowering of the threshold of tolerance of the skin to usually tolerated physical or chemical stimuli, such as environmental factors (temperature variation, sun, pollution, etc.), internal factors (emotions, menstrual cycles, diet, etc.), or the application of certain topical products. When the critical threshold of tolerance is exceeded, the skin exposed daily to various stimuli, triggers via its immuno-cutaneous system an organized and non-specific biological response. This response or inflammatory reaction is a complex and crucial process: it must be both effective to allow the skin to resist external aggressions and maintain its integrity, and measured to prevent the appearance of tissue damage. This delicate balance is ensured by the action of pro and anti-inflammatory mediators. When the threshold to the various stimuli that the skin undergoes daily is exceeded, the keratinocytes, equipped with nociceptive receivers perceive the stress. Thus activated, keratinocytes locally initiate the inflammatory reaction via the release of initial mediators such as cytokines interleukins-la (IL-Ia) and Tumor Necrosis a (TNF-a). These two initial mediators will propagate and amplify the inflammatory reaction in two ways. The first pathway induces an immediate cellular response, namely the activation of lipid mediators of inflammation, leukotrienes (LT) and prostaglandins (PG) formation enzymes, in particular prostaglandins E2 (PGE2). These lipid mediators cause a series of fall and paracrine effects through specific receptors. They contribute in particular to vasodilatation, adhesion and cell migration.
La seconde voie de transduction implique des facteurs de transcription, comme le Nuclear Factor KB (NF-KB) qui induisent la synthèse de cytokines, molécules proinflammatoires. Le NF-κB est un hétérodimère cytoplasmique lié à un inhibiteur spécifique, la protéine IKB. La phosphorylation de IKB active le NF-κB qui est transféré du cytoplasme vers le noyau de la cellule et active la transcription de gènes codant pour des cytokines, des chimiokines et des molécules d'adhérence impliquées lors des réponses inflammatoires. En outre, en parallèle de cette réaction inflammatoire, il existe un mécanisme neurogène de la sensibilité cutanée impliquant la mise en jeu des nerfs sensitifs épidermiques dont les terminaisons affleurent le stratum corneum. Activées par divers stimuli, les terminaisons nerveuses cutanées, ou fibres nociceptives, synthétisent et sécrètent des neuromédiateurs substances chimiques médiant l'information nerveuse et responsables de l'initiation du processus d'inflammation neurogénique. La peau produit des signaux neuroendocriniens tels que les prohormones propiomelanocortin POMC, agissant comme un système de défense cutanée coordonnant des réponses à l'inflammation cutanée. L'a-MSH (l'a-Melanocyte Stimulating Hormone) est une neurohormone synthétisée par les kératinocytes, qui provient du clivage protéolytique des précurseurs POMC. Elle joue un rôle important dans de nombreux processus biologiques, et notamment dans la régulation de l'inflammation. Son activité antiinflammatoire résulte de sa double capacité à inhiber la production et l'action des médiateurs pro-inflammatoires TNF-a, IL-I et NF-κB, et à stimuler l'expression des facteurs anti-inflammatoires. La libération d'a-MSH permet ainsi de réduire l'activation des récepteurs nociceptifs des cellules épidermiques et des fibres sensorielles cutanées. Il y a donc différents processus à l'origine des phénomènes de peaux sensibles. Aussi, pour répondre à son objectif, la présente invention propose d'utiliser un principe actif capable à la fois de limiter l'amplification de la réaction inflammatoire en réduisant la libération de médiateurs pro-inflammatoires, et d'agir sur l'inflammation neurogénique en stimulant la production d'une neurohormone anti-inflammatoire. En particulier, l'invention vise l'utilisation cosmétique d'un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa, présentant une teneur en composés hydroxybenzoïques supérieure à 50% des polyphénols totaux, en tant que principe actif, dans une composition cosmétique, capable de : - limiter l'amplification de la réaction inflammatoire en réduisant la libération de médiateurs pro-inflammatoires PGE2 et en diminuant l'activation des NF-κB, etThe second transduction pathway involves transcription factors, such as Nuclear Factor KB (NF-KB), which induce the synthesis of cytokines, proinflammatory molecules. NF-κB is a cytoplasmic heterodimer linked to a specific inhibitor, the IKB protein. Phosphorylation of IKB activates NF-κB which is transferred from the cytoplasm to the nucleus of the cell and activates transcription of genes encoding cytokines, chemokines and adhesion molecules involved in inflammatory responses. In addition, in parallel with this inflammatory reaction, there is a neurogenic mechanism of cutaneous sensitivity involving the activation of epidermal sensory nerves whose terminations are flush with the stratum corneum. Activated by various stimuli, the cutaneous nerve endings, or nociceptive fibers, synthesize and secrete neuromediators chemical substances mediating the nervous information and responsible for the initiation of the process of neurogenic inflammation. The skin produces neuroendocrine signals such as propiomelanocortin POMC prohormones, acting as a cutaneous defense system coordinating responses to skin inflammation. Α-MSH (a-Melanocyte Stimulating Hormone) is a neurohormone synthesized by keratinocytes, which originates from the proteolytic cleavage of POMC precursors. It plays an important role in many biological processes, including the regulation of inflammation. Its anti-inflammatory activity results from its dual ability to inhibit the production and action of pro-inflammatory mediators TNF-α, IL-I and NF-κB, and to stimulate the expression of anti-inflammatory factors. The release of α-MSH thus makes it possible to reduce the activation of the nociceptive receptors of epidermal cells and cutaneous sensory fibers. There are therefore different processes at the origin of the phenomena of sensitive skins. Also, to meet its objective, the present invention proposes to use an active ingredient capable both of limiting the amplification of the inflammatory reaction by reducing the release of pro-inflammatory mediators, and of acting on the neurogenic inflammation. by stimulating the production of an anti-inflammatory neurohormone. In particular, the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a Boerhavia diffusa extract, having a content of hydroxybenzoic compounds greater than 50% of the total polyphenols, as active ingredient, in a cosmetic composition, capable of: limit the amplification of the inflammatory reaction by reducing the release of pro-inflammatory mediators PGE2 and by decreasing the activation of NF-κB, and
- limiter l'inflammation neurogénique en stimulant la libération d'une neurohormone anti-inflammatoire a-MSH.- limit neurogenic inflammation by stimulating the release of an anti-inflammatory neurohormone α-MSH.
Préférentiellement l'extrait utile selon l'invention est dépourvu d'eupalithine glycoside.Preferably the useful extract according to the invention is devoid of eupalithin glycoside.
Avantageusement, l'utilisation d'un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa selon l'invention permet de lutter contre l'inflammation cutanée et les phénomènes d'inconfort cutané des peaux sensibles.Advantageously, the use of an extract of Boerhavia diffusa according to the invention makes it possible to fight against cutaneous inflammation and skin discomfort phenomena in sensitive skin.
L'utilisation d'un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa riche en composés hydroxybenzoïques selon l'invention permet notamment :The use of an extract of Boerhavia diffusa rich in hydroxybenzoic compounds according to the invention allows in particular:
- de favoriser le retour de la sensibilité cutanée à un niveau comparable à celui d'une peau normale lors d'une inflammation neurogénique, en particulier de réduire des sensations de picotement et de diminuer un érythème cutané, etto promote the return of cutaneous sensitivity to a level comparable to that of normal skin during neurogenic inflammation, in particular to reduce tingling sensations and to reduce cutaneous erythema, and
- de présenter un effet apaisant, à la fois immédiat et à long terme, après une agression mécanique unique ou répétée.- to have a soothing effect, both immediate and long-term, after a single or repeated mechanical aggression.
Selon un autre aspect, l'invention vise une composition cosmétique destinée à apaiser la peau et augmenter le confort cutané, contenant un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa, présentant une teneur en composés hydroxybenzoïques supérieure à 50% des polyphénols totaux en tant que principe actif.According to another aspect, the invention provides a cosmetic composition for soothing the skin and increasing skin comfort, containing an extract of Boerhavia diffusa, having a content of hydroxybenzoic compounds greater than 50% of the total polyphenols as active principle.
La composition selon l'invention peut contenir de 0,01 à 20 % d'au moins un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa, présentant une teneur en composés hydroxybenzoïques supérieure à 50%. L'administration d'une telle composition est de préférence effectuée par voie topique. La composition selon l'invention peut se présenter sous forme de crèmes, émulsions huile-clans-eau, eau-dans-huile ou émulsions multiples, solutions, suspensions ou encore poudres.The composition according to the invention may contain from 0.01 to 20% of at least one Boerhavia diffusa extract, having a content of hydroxybenzoic compounds greater than 50%. The administration of such a composition is preferably carried out topically. The composition according to the invention can be in the form of creams, oil-clans-water emulsions, water-in-oil or multiple emulsions, solutions, suspensions or powders.
L'invention vise aussi un procédé cosmétique destiné à apaiser la peau et à augmenter le confort cutané, à lutter contre une inflammation de la peau, à réduire des sensations de picotement de la peau, à diminuer des érythèmes cutanés, et/ou à apaiser la peau agressée, consistant à appliquer par voie topique sur la peau une composition contenant au moins un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa, présentant une teneur en composés hydroxybenzoïques supérieure à 50%. La présente invention est maintenant décrite en s'appuyant sur un exemple de procédé d'obtention d'extraits de Boerhavia diffusa particulièrement adaptés, et sur des résultats de tests effectués à partir de ces extraits.The invention also relates to a cosmetic process intended to soothe the skin and to increase skin comfort, to fight against an inflammation of the skin, to reduce tingling sensations of the skin, to reduce skin rashes, and / or to soothe the aggressed skin, consisting of applying topically to the skin a composition containing at least one extract of Boerhavia diffusa, having a content of hydroxybenzoic compounds greater than 50%. The present invention is now described based on an example of a process for obtaining extracts of Boerhavia diffusa particularly adapted, and on test results made from these extracts.
1/ PROCEDE D'OBTENTION E>'UN EXTRAIT DE BOERHAVIA DIFFUSA SELON L 'INVENTION : Le procédé d'obtention comprend la succession des étapes suivantes : - solubilisation de poudre de racine de Boerhavia diffusa dans un mélange eau/butylène glycol 50/50,1 / PROCESS FOR OBTAINING A BOERHAVIA DIFFUSA EXTRACT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION The process for obtaining comprises the following succession of steps: solubilization of Boerhavia diffusa root powder in a 50/50 water / butylene glycol mixture ,
- hydrolyse(s) enzymatique(s) simultanée(s) ou successive(s),- simultaneous or successive enzymatic hydrolysis (s),
- séparation des phases soluble et insoluble,separation of the soluble and insoluble phases,
- inactivation enzymatique par traitement thermique, - f iltration, et- enzymatic inactivation by heat treatment, - filtration, and
- f iltration stérilisante.sterilizing f iltration.
La ou les hydrolyse(s) sont réalisées au moyen d'au moins une enzyme de type carbohydrase, choisie parmi les carbohydrases connues, disponibles dans le commerce. / CARACTERISATION E>'UN EXTRAIT E)E BOERHAVIA DIFFUSA SELON L'INVENTION :The hydrolysis (s) are carried out using at least one carbohydrase type enzyme, chosen from known carbohydrases, available commercially. CHARACTERIZATION OF AN EXTRACT E) BOERHAVIA DIFFUSA ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION:
2-1/ Matières sèches :2-1 / Dry matter:
On mesure le taux de matières sèches par passage à l'étuve à 1050C en présence de sable d'un échantillon de poids initial donné jusqu'à obtention d'un poids constant.The solids content is measured by passing the oven at 105 ° C. in the presence of sand of a sample of initial weight given until a constant weight is obtained.
Le taux de matières sèches est compris entre 5 et 250 g/1, plus particulièrement entre 15 et 35 g/1.The solids content is between 5 and 250 g / l, more particularly between 15 and 35 g / l.
2-2/ Mesure du pH :2-2 / pH measurement:
Le pH mesuré par la méthode potentiométrique à température ambiante conduit à des valeurs comprises entre 2 et 7, plus particulièrement entre 4 et 5.The pH measured by the potentiometric method at ambient temperature leads to values between 2 and 7, more particularly between 4 and 5.
2-3/ Dosage des composés phénoliques2-3 / Determination of phenolic compounds
Le dosage est réalisé par lecture de l'intensité de coloration en présence de ferricyanure de potassium, intensité détectable à 715 nm et comparée à une gamme étalon d'acide gallique.The assay is performed by reading the staining intensity in the presence of potassium ferricyanide, detectable intensity at 715 nm and compared to a standard range of gallic acid.
Le taux de polyphénols totaux est compris entre 0,07 et 4,0 g/l, plus particulièrement entre 0,20 à 0,55 g/l.The level of total polyphenols is between 0.07 and 4.0 g / l, more particularly between 0.20 to 0.55 g / l.
2-4/ Caractérisation des composés phénoliques2-4 / Characterization of phenolic compounds
La caractérisation et la quantification des composés phénoliques du principe actif selon l'invention sont réalisées par HPLC (High Performance LiquidThe characterization and quantification of the phenolic compounds of the active principle according to the invention are carried out by HPLC (High Performance Liquid
Chromatography).Chromatography).
Le chromatogramme du principe actif selon l'invention montre la présence de composés hydroxycinnamiques, hydroxybenzoïque et de flavonoïdes, les proportions étant sensiblement de l'ordre des valeurs données dans le tableau suivant :
Figure imgf000009_0001
The chromatogram of the active principle according to the invention shows the presence of hydroxycinnamic, hydroxybenzoic and flavonoid compounds, the proportions being substantially of the order of the values given in the following table:
Figure imgf000009_0001
2-5/ Identification de la fraction active2-5 / Identification of the active fraction
Pour déterminer la ou les fractions actives, on utilise un composé chimique de façon à éliminer la totalité des polyphénols du principe actif selon l'invention.To determine the active fraction or fractions, a chemical compound is used so as to eliminate all the polyphenols of the active principle according to the invention.
On compare ensuite la capacité d'inhibition de la libération du médiateur pro-inflammatoire P&E2, de la fraction privée des polyphénols à celle du principe actif selon l'invention.The ability to inhibit the release of the pro-inflammatory mediator P & E2 from the polyphenol-deprived fraction to that of the active ingredient according to the invention is then compared.
Testé à la même concentration, le principe actif selon l'invention présente une activité inhibitrice de la libération du médiateur pro-inflammatoireTested at the same concentration, the active principle according to the invention has an inhibitory activity of the release of the pro-inflammatory mediator
PGE2 alors que la fraction privée des polyphénols n'a plus cette activité. Par conséquent, ce sont les composés phénoliques, fraction constituée majoritairement de composés hydroxybenzoïques, qui confèrent à l'extrait selon l'invention son activité d'inhibition de la prolifération bactérienne. 3/EVALUATION E)E L'EFFET E)1UN EXTRAIT E)E BOERHAVIA DIFFUSA SELON L 'INVENTIONPGE2 whereas the private fraction of polyphenols no longer has this activity. Therefore, it is the phenolic compounds, fraction consisting mainly of hydroxybenzoic compounds, which confer on the extract according to the invention its activity of inhibition of bacterial proliferation. 3 / EVALUATION E) E THE EFFECT E) 1 AN EXTRACT E) BOERHAVIA DIFFUSA ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION
3-1/ Evaluation de l'effet sur la libération de PGE23-1 / Evaluation of the effect on the release of PGE2
Cette étude a pour objectif d'évaluer l'effet d'un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa riche en composés hydroxybenzoïques selon l'invention, sur la libération de PGE2 lors d'une inflammation des cellules de la peau induite par l'acide arachidonique (AA).This study aims to evaluate the effect of a Boerhavia diffusa extract rich in hydroxybenzoic compounds according to the invention, on the release of PGE2 during arachidonic acid-induced inflammation of the skin cells (AA ).
L'étude est réalisée sur des cultures de kératinocytes humains soumis à une inflammation provoquée par un traitement à \'AA. L'effet du principe actif est évalué sur sa capacité à limiter l'inflammation générée par I1AA en mesurant par dosage Elisa le taux de PGE2 libérées.The study is carried out on cultures of human keratinocytes subjected to inflammation caused by treatment with AA. The effect of the active ingredient is evaluated on its ability to limit the inflammation generated by I 1 AA by measuring by Elisa assay the rate of PGE2 released.
Le protocole opératoire est le suivant.The operating protocol is as follows.
A Jl, les kératinocytes humains normaux sont ensemencés dans des puits dans un milieu complet et incubés à 37°C pendant 2 jours.At J1, normal human keratinocytes are seeded in wells in complete medium and incubated at 37 ° C for 2 days.
A J3, le milieu de culture est éliminé etAt D3, the culture medium is removed and
- des cellules sont traitées avec 2,5μM d'AA dilué dans un milieu de culture en présence d'un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa selon l'invention à 0,5%, 1%, ou 2% ou en présence d'acide salicylique à 1% utilisé comme témoin positif.cells are treated with 2.5 μM of AA diluted in a culture medium in the presence of an extract of Boerhavia diffusa according to the invention at 0.5%, 1% or 2% or in the presence of salicylic acid at 1% used as a positive control.
- d'autres cellules sont traitées avec un milieu de culture en présence d'un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa selon l'invention à 0,5%, 1%, ou 2% ou en présence d'acide salicylique à 1% utilisé comme témoin positif.other cells are treated with a culture medium in the presence of a diffused Boerhavia extract according to the invention at 0.5%, 1% or 2% or in the presence of 1% salicylic acid used as a control positive.
Après 3 heures d'incubation, les surnageants cellulaires sont récupérés et le dosage de PGE2 est réalisé à l'aide d'un kit de dosage ELISA. Les résultats obtenus, exprimés en pg/ml et en pourcentage de PGE2 relargué par rapport au témoin traité avec XAA1 sont présentés dans le tableau suivant :After 3 hours of incubation, the cell supernatants are recovered and the PGE2 assay is performed using an ELISA assay kit. The results obtained, expressed in μg / ml and in percentage of released PGE2 relative to the control treated with XAA 1 are presented in the following table:
Figure imgf000010_0001
Figure imgf000011_0001
Figure imgf000010_0001
Figure imgf000011_0001
On constate que, soumis à une inflammation induite par l'acide arachidonique, les kératinocytes humains sécrètent signif icativement plus de PGE2. Les résultats obtenus montrent que l'extrait de Boerhavia diffusa selon l'invention permet de réduire significativement la libération de PGE2, limitant ainsi le phénomène d'inflammation. Cet effet est dose-dépendant.It is found that, subjected to inflammation induced by arachidonic acid, human keratinocytes secrete significantly more PGE2. The results obtained show that the Boerhavia extract diffused according to the invention makes it possible to significantly reduce the release of PGE2, thus limiting the phenomenon of inflammation. This effect is dose-dependent.
3-2/ Evaluation de l'effet sur la translocation de NF-κB3-2 / Evaluation of the effect on NF-κB translocation
Cette étude a pour objectif d'évaluer l'effet d'un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa riche en composés hydroxybenzoïques selon l'invention, sur l'activation du facteur de transcription NF-κB lors d'une inflammation des cellules de la peau induite par des esters de phorbol (TPA).The purpose of this study is to evaluate the effect of a Boerhavia diffusa extract rich in hydroxybenzoic compounds according to the invention on the activation of the NF-κB transcription factor during inflammation of the skin cells induced by phorbol esters (TPA).
L'étude est réalisée sur des cultures de kératinocytes humains normaux soumis à une inflammation provoquée par un traitement avec des esters de phorbol (TPA : 12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol-13-acetate). L'effet du principe actif est évalué sur sa capacité à limiter l'inflammation en visualisant la translocation de NF-κB du noyau vers le cytoplasme des kératinocytes humains par immunocytof luorescence. Cette translocation correspond à l'activation de NF-κB. Le protocole opératoire est le suivant. A Jl, les kératinocytes humains sont ensemencés sur des lames de verre dans un milieu de culture et incubés à 37°C pendant 2 jours.The study is performed on normal human keratinocyte cultures subjected to inflammation caused by treatment with phorbol esters (TPA: 12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol-13-acetate). The effect of the active ingredient is evaluated on its ability to limit inflammation by visualizing the translocation of NF-κB from the nucleus to the cytoplasm of human keratinocytes by immunocytofluorescence. This translocation corresponds to the activation of NF-κB. The operating protocol is as follows. At J1, human keratinocytes are seeded on glass slides in culture medium and incubated at 37 ° C for 2 days.
A J3, le milieu de culture est éliminé et les cellules sont traitées avec un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa selon l'invention à 0,5% ; 1% ou 2% dilué dans un milieu de culture.On D3, the culture medium is removed and the cells are treated with a diffused Boerhavia extract according to the invention at 0.5%; 1% or 2% diluted in a culture medium.
Les cellules sont incubées à 37°C pendant 24 heures. A J4, le milieu de culture est éliminé et remplacé par un milieu contenant du TPA (12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol-13-acetate) pour induire l'inflammation et un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa selon l'invention à 0,5%, 1% ou 2%. Après quelques heures d'incubation, on réalise un marquage immunocytologique deThe cells are incubated at 37 ° C for 24 hours. On D4, the culture medium is removed and replaced by a medium containing TPA (12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol-13-acetate) to induce inflammation and a Boerhavia diffusa extract according to the invention at 0.5%, 1 % or 2%. After a few hours of incubation, an immunocytological staining of
NF-κB et on visualise l'immunomarquage sur un microscope couplé à un système d'analyse d'images. La visualisation de la translocation de NF-κB du cytoplasme vers le noyau est proportionnelle à l'intensité de coloration rouge présente dans les noyaux des kératinocytes. Plus la fluorescence est importante, plus la translocation de NF-κB est élevée et plus son activation est importante. Les résultats immunocytologiques étant qualitatifs, 4 niveaux d'expression de NF-κB ont été définis :NF-κB and immunostaining is visualized on a microscope coupled to an image analysis system. The visualization of the NF-κB translocation from the cytoplasm to the nucleus is proportional to the intensity of red staining present in the keratinocyte nuclei. The higher the fluorescence, the higher the NF-κB translocation and the greater its activation. The immunocytological results being qualitative, 4 levels of NF-κB expression were defined:
- Absence d'immunoréactivité dans le noyau - Faible détection d'immunoréactivité dans le noyau +- Absence of immunoreactivity in the nucleus - Low detection of immunoreactivity in the nucleus +
- Moyenne détection d'immunoréactivité dans le noyau ++- Average detection of immunoreactivity in the nucleus ++
- Forte détection d'immunoréactivité dans le noyau +++- Strong detection of immunoreactivity in the nucleus +++
- Très forte détection d'immunoréactivité dans le noyau ++++- Very strong detection of immunoreactivity in the nucleus ++++
Les résultats obtenus sont présentés dans le tableau suivantThe results obtained are shown in the following table
Figure imgf000012_0001
Figure imgf000012_0001
Ces résultats montrent qu'un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa selon l'invention testé à 2% sur kératinocytes humains traités avec le TPA, diminue nettement la translocation de NF-κB dans le noyau, c'est-à-dire son activation, ce qui permet de réduire l'inflammation. 3-3/ Evaluation de l'effet sur la synthèse de l'a-MSHThese results show that a Boerhavia extract diffused according to the invention tested at 2% on human keratinocytes treated with TPA, markedly reduces the translocation of NF-κB in the nucleus, that is to say its activation, which helps reduce inflammation. 3-3 / Evaluation of the effect on the synthesis of a-MSH
L'objectif de cette étude est d'évaluer la capacité d'un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa riche en composés hydroxybenzoïques selon l'invention, à stimuler la synthèse de l'a-Melanocyte Stimulating Hormone (a-MSH), neuromédiateur antiinflammatoire sécrété par les kératinocytes humains.The objective of this study is to evaluate the capacity of a Boerhavia diffusa extract rich in hydroxybenzoic compounds according to the invention, to stimulate the synthesis of the α-Melanocyte Stimulating Hormone (α-MSH), an anti-inflammatory neuromediator secreted by human keratinocytes.
L'étude est réalisée par dosage ELISA sur culture de kératinocytes humains dont l'inflammation a été induite ou non avec une irradiation UV selon le protocole opératoire qui suit. A JO, des kératinocytes humains normaux sont ensemencés dans un milieu de culture adapté, puis incubés à 37°C. A J4, deux traitements sont réalisés :The study is carried out by ELISA assay on human keratinocyte culture, the inflammation of which has been induced or not with UV irradiation according to the following operating protocol. At 0, normal human keratinocytes are inoculated in a suitable culture medium and incubated at 37 ° C. At D4, two treatments are performed:
- sans inflammation- without inflammation
Le milieu de culture est éliminé et les kératinocytes sont traités avec un milieu de culture dans lequel est dilué un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa selon l'invention à 0,5% ou 1%. Les cellules sont ensuite incubées à 37°C pendant 24 heures.The culture medium is removed and the keratinocytes are treated with a culture medium in which is diluted a Boerhavia diffusa extract according to the invention to 0.5% or 1%. The cells are then incubated at 37 ° C for 24 hours.
- avec inflammation- with inflammation
Le milieu de culture est éliminé et les kératinocytes sont traités avec un milieu de culture dans lequel est dilué un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa selon l'invention à 0,5% ou 1%. Les cellules sont soumises aux irradiations UVB. Après irradiation, le tampon est éliminé et remplacé par du milieu de culture dans lequel est dilué un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa selon l'invention à 0,5% et 1%. Les cellules sont ensuite incubées à 37°C pendant 24 heures. A J5, à la fin de l'incubation, les milieux de culture sont récupérés et concentrés. On effectue ensuite le dosage de I' a-MSH à l'aide d'un kit ELISA.The culture medium is removed and the keratinocytes are treated with a culture medium in which is diluted a Boerhavia diffusa extract according to the invention to 0.5% or 1%. The cells are subjected to UVB irradiation. After irradiation, the buffer is removed and replaced by culture medium in which is diluted Boerhavia diffusa extract according to the invention to 0.5% and 1%. The cells are then incubated at 37 ° C for 24 hours. At day 5, at the end of the incubation, the culture media are recovered and concentrated. The assay for α-MSH is then performed using an ELISA kit.
Les résultats obtenus avec et sans inflammation, exprimés en pg/ml et en pourcentage de taux d' a-MSH synthétisé par rapport à un témoin, sont présentés dans les tableaux ci-dessous : sans inflammationThe results obtained with and without inflammation, expressed in μg / ml and as a percentage of the level of α-MSH synthesized with respect to a control, are presented in the tables below: without inflammation
Figure imgf000014_0001
Figure imgf000014_0001
On constate que testé à 1%, un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa riche en composés hydroxybenzoïques selon l'invention permet d'augmenter significativement de 173% la synthèse de l'a-MSH, neuromédiateur anti-inflammatoire. - avec inflammationIt is found that tested at 1%, an extract of Boerhavia diffusa rich in hydroxybenzoic compounds according to the invention makes it possible to significantly increase by 173% the synthesis of α-MSH, an anti-inflammatory neuromediator. - with inflammation
Figure imgf000014_0002
Figure imgf000014_0002
Sur kératinocytes humains normaux dont l'inflammation a été induite par irradiations UVB, un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa riche en composés hydroxybenzoïques selon l'invention à 1% renforce la protection antiinflammatoire de la cellule en stimulant la synthèse de I' a-MSH. La stimulation de l'a-MSH est inférieure sur le modèle inflammé par rapport au modèle non-inflammé. Ceci pourrait être dû à la compétition entre les processus pro- et anti-inflammatoire mis en place simultanément lors de l'inflammation UV. 3-4/ Evaluation de l'effet apaisant in vivoOn normal human keratinocytes whose inflammation has been induced by UVB irradiations, a Boerhavia diffusa extract rich in 1% hydroxybenzoic compounds according to the invention enhances the anti-inflammatory protection of the cell by stimulating the synthesis of α-MSH. The stimulation of α-MSH is inferior to the inflammatory model compared to the non-inflammatory model. This could be due to the competition between pro and anti-inflammatory processes implemented simultaneously during UV inflammation. 3-4 / Evaluation of the soothing effect in vivo
3-4-1/ Etude de la sensibilité à la caζ>saicine Cette étude α pour but de caractériser in vivo l'effet apaisant d'un extrait de3-4-1 / Study of sensitivity to caζ> saicine This study aims to characterize in vivo the soothing effect of an extract of
Boerhavia diffusa riche en composés hydroxybenzoïques selon l'invention, formulé à 4% en émulsion, en réalisant un test de picotement, connu sous le nom de « stinging test ». Ce test consiste à déterminer et à percevoir les sensations de picotements engendrées par l'application d'une solution de capsàicine au niveau des ailes du nez. L'application de capsàicine conduit à un relarguage de neurotransmetteurs par les terminaisons nerveuses périphériques et entraîne l'apparition de sensations inconfortables telles que des picotements, des brûlures, des démangeaisons associées éventuellement à l'apparition de rougeurs sur la zone d'application.Boerhavia diffusa rich in hydroxybenzoic compounds according to the invention, formulated at 4% in emulsion, by carrying out a tingling test, known under the name of "stinging test". This test consists in determining and perceiving the tingling sensation caused by the application of a capsaicin solution at the level of the wings of the nose. The application of capsaicin leads to a release of neurotransmitters by the peripheral nerve endings and causes the appearance of uncomfortable sensations such as tingling, burning, itching, possibly associated with the appearance of redness on the application area.
L'étude est réalisée sur 16 volontaires sains, selon le protocole expérimental qui suit. On réalise tout d'abord un premier stinging test pour sélectionner les volontaires à peaux sensibles.The study is carried out on 16 healthy volunteers, according to the experimental protocol that follows. A first stinging test is first performed to select volunteers with sensitive skin.
A t = 0, on applique sur les ailes du nez de chaque volontaire une solution hydroalcoolique de capsàicine d'un côté et une solution hydroalccolique seule sur l'autre côté. 10 secondes après l'application et ensuite toutes les 5 minutes, les volontaires évaluent les sensations perçues selon l'échelle numérique suivante : - 0 : absence de sensationAt t = 0, a volunteer hydroalcoholic solution of capsaicin on one side and hydroalcolic solution alone on the other side are applied to the wings of each volunteer's nose. 10 seconds after the application and then every 5 minutes, the volunteers evaluate the sensations perceived according to the following numerical scale: - 0: absence of sensation
- 1 : sensations légères- 1: light sensations
- 2 : sensations modérées- 2: moderate sensations
- 3 : sensations sévères- 3: severe sensations
A t - 2 heures, on applique sur les ailes du nez de chaque volontaire une solution hydroalcoolique de capsàicine sur le coté ayant eu la solution hydroalcoolique seule à t=0 et une solution hydroalccolique seule sur l'autre côté. 10 secondes après l'application et ensuite toutes les 5 minutes, les volontaires évaluent les sensations perçues selon la même échelle numérique. Un score global de réactivité est calculé et seuls les volontaires réagissant positivement au « stinging test » sont sélectionnés.At t - 2 hours, a volunteer hydroalcoholic solution of capsaicin was applied to the wings of each volunteer on the side having had the hydroalcoholic solution alone at t = 0 and a hydroalcolic solution alone on the other side. 10 seconds after the application and then every 5 minutes, the volunteers evaluate the sensations perceived according to the same numerical scale. An overall reactivity score is calculated and only volunteers reacting positively to the "stinging test" are selected.
Pendant 4 jours, les volontaires sélectionnés appliquent bioquotidiennement soit un placebo, soit un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa selon l'invention formulé à 4% en émulsion.For 4 days, the selected volunteers apply daily either a placebo or an extract of Boerhavia diffusa according to the invention formulated at 4% in emulsion.
A J5 on réalise à nouveau un stinging test, comme celui réalisé avant le traitement.At D5, a stinging test is performed again, like the one performed before the treatment.
Les résultats récapitulatifs sont présentés dans le tableau suivant :The summary results are presented in the following table:
Figure imgf000016_0001
Figure imgf000016_0001
On constate que, dans les conditions de l'étude, après 4 jours de traitement et en comparaison au placebo, un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa riche en composés hydroxybenzoïques selon l'invention formulé à 4% diminue de 44,5% les sensations d'inconf ort engendrées par une inflammation sur les ailes du nez. L'utilisation d'un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa limite ainsi l'inflammation provoquée par une substance neurogène type capsaicine et favorise le retour à une sensibilité cutanée comparable à celle d'une peau normale.It is found that, under the conditions of the study, after 4 days of treatment and in comparison with placebo, an extract of Boerhavia diffusa rich in hydroxybenzoic compounds according to the invention formulated at 4% decreases by 44.5% the sensations of inconf ort caused by inflammation on the wings of the nose. The use of an extract of Boerhavia diffusa thus limits the inflammation caused by a neurogenic substance such as capsaicin and promotes a return to skin sensitivity comparable to that of normal skin.
3-4-2/ Suivi de l'érythème après agression à la capsaicine3-4-2 / Monitoring of erythema after capsaicin aggression
Le but de cette étude est d'évaluer in vivo la capacité d'un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa riche en composés hydroxybenzoïques selon l'invention, formulé à 4% en émulsion, à diminuer la sensibilité de la peau face à une agression avec une solution de capsaicine, substance neurogène.The aim of this study is to evaluate in vivo the ability of a Boerhavia diffusa extract rich in hydroxybenzoic compounds according to the invention, formulated at 4% in emulsion, to reduce the sensitivity of the skin to aggression with a solution. capsaicin, neurogenic substance.
Cette étude est réalisée sur 5 volontaires sains. L'effet est visualisé sur des photos numériques de la zone d'étude. Entre JO et J4, les volontaires appliquent deux fois par jour soit un placebo soit un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa riche en composés hydroxybenzoïques formulé en émulsion à 4%, sur l'intérieur des avant bras.This study is carried out on 5 healthy volunteers. The effect is visualized on digital photos of the study area. Between OJ and D4, the volunteers apply twice daily either a placebo or an extract of Boerhavia diffusa rich in hydroxybenzoic compounds formulated in 4% emulsion, on the inside of the forearms.
A J5, des photographies des zones étudiées sont réalisées, puis on applique un patch contenant 50μl d'une solution hydroalcoolique de capsάidne à 3% pendant 5 minutes.At D5, photographs of the zones studied are made, then a patch containing 50 .mu.l of a 3% capsicum hydroalcoholic solution is applied for 5 minutes.
10, 30 et 60 minutes après le retrait du patch, des photographies des zones étudiées sont réalisées.10, 30 and 60 minutes after the removal of the patch, photographs of the zones studied are made.
On constate que pour les zones traitées avec un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa riche en composés hydroxybenzoïques formulé en émulsion à 4%, comparé au placebo, il y a une forte réduction de l'érythème.It is noted that for areas treated with a Boerhavia diffusa extract rich in hydroxybenzoic compounds formulated in 4% emulsion, compared to placebo, there is a strong reduction of erythema.
3-4-3/ Etude après-rasage : Evaluation de l'effet immédiat au niveau des joues après agression unique Le but de cette étude est d'évaluer in vivo l'effet apaisant d'un extrait de3-4-3 / Aftershave study: Evaluation of the immediate effect on the cheeks after single aggression The aim of this study is to evaluate in vivo the soothing effect of an extract of
Boerhavia diffusa riche en composés hydroxybenzoïques selon l'invention, formulé à 4% en gel-émulsionné, après une agression mécanique de type rasage.Boerhavia diffusa rich in hydroxybenzoic compounds according to the invention, formulated at 4% gel-emulsified, after a mechanical aggression type shaving.
L'effet immédiat post-rasage est étudié contre placebo, au niveau des joues.The immediate post-shave effect is studied against placebo, in the cheeks.
L'étude est réalisée sur 27 volontaires sains de sexe masculin. L'effet apaisant immédiat est évalué par analyse de photographies numériques et par une évaluation des sensations perçues par les volontaires à l'aide d'un questionnaire.The study is conducted on 27 healthy male volunteers. The immediate soothing effect is assessed by analyzing digital photographs and evaluating the sensations perceived by the volunteers using a questionnaire.
Le protocole opératoire est le suivant.The operating protocol is as follows.
De J- 14 à JO, les volontaires ne doivent appliquer aucune crème sur le visage. A JO, on réalise des photographies des joues des volontaires avant et après rasage. Le placebo ou l'émulsion contenant l'extrait selon l'invention sont ensuite appliqués en hémi-visage. Une troisième série de photographies est réalisée et les volontaires répondent au questionnaire d'auto-évaluation des sensations. Sur les photographies, on constate une diminution de 22% de l'érythème après application immédiate de l'extrait selon l'invention, contre 2,5% après application du placebo.From D-14 to OJ, volunteers should not apply any cream to the face. At OJ, we take photographs of the cheeks of volunteers before and after shaving. The placebo or the emulsion containing the extract according to the invention are then applied in half-face. A third series of photographs is carried out and the volunteers answer the questionnaire of self-evaluation of sensations. In the photographs, there is a 22% decrease in erythema after immediate application of the extract according to the invention, as against 2.5% after application of the placebo.
Concernant l'évaluation subjective par le questionnaire, les résultats sont présentés dans le tableau suivant :Concerning the subjective evaluation by the questionnaire, the results are presented in the following table:
Figure imgf000018_0001
Figure imgf000018_0001
Dans les conditions de cette étude, l'utilisation d'un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa riche en composés hydroxybenzoïques selon l'invention permet donc de diminuer de 22% l'érythème induit par rasage. En outre, 50% des utilisateurs trouvent que l'utilisation d'un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa selon l'invention apaise le feu du rasoir.Under the conditions of this study, the use of a Boerhavia diffusa extract rich in hydroxybenzoic compounds according to the invention thus makes it possible to reduce shaving-induced erythema by 22%. In addition, 50% of users find that the use of a Boerhavia extract diffused according to the invention soothes the razor burn.
3-4-4/ Etude après-rasage : Evaluation de l'effet long-terme au niveau du cou après agressions répétées Cette étude a pour objectif d'évaluer in vivo l'effet apaisant d'un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa riche en composés hydroxybenzoïques selon l'invention, formulé à 4% en gel-émulsionné, après des agressions mécaniques répétées de type rasage quotidien. L'effet à long terme est étudié contre placebo, au niveau du cou. L'étude est réalisée sur 21 volontaires sains de sexe masculin. L'effet apaisant est évalué après 7 jours d'applications par des mesures de la couleur de la peau réalisées avec un chromamètre avant et après rasage, et par une évaluation des sensations perçues par les volontaires à l'aide d'un questionnaire.3-4-4 / Aftershave study: Evaluation of the long-term effect on the neck after repeated aggressions This study aims to evaluate in vivo the soothing effect of a compound-rich Boerhavia diffusa extract hydroxybenzoic compounds according to the invention, formulated at 4% gel-emulsified, after repeated mechanical aggression daily shaving type. The long-term effect is studied against placebo, in the neck. The study is conducted on 21 healthy male volunteers. The soothing effect is evaluated after 7 days of application by skin color measurements taken with a chromameter before and after shaving, and by an assessment of the sensations perceived by the volunteers using a questionnaire.
Le chromamètre convertit les couleurs situées dans la plage de perception humaine en code numérique composé de trois paramètres, notamment le paramètre a qui correspond à la gamme des verts aux rouges. De J- 14 à JO, les volontaires ne doivent appliquer aucune crème sur le visage. A JO, on réalise des mesures chromamétriques au niveau de deux zones cutanées symétriques du cou avant et après rasage.The chromameter converts colors in the human perception range into a numeric code consisting of three parameters, including the parameter a which corresponds to the range from green to red. From D-14 to OJ, volunteers should not apply any cream to the face. At OJ, chromameters are taken at two symmetrical cutaneous areas of the neck before and after shaving.
Entre JO et J6, le placebo ou l'émulsion contenant l'extrait selon l'invention sont appliqués une fois par jour après le rasage quotidien.Between OJ and J6, the placebo or the emulsion containing the extract according to the invention are applied once a day after shaving daily.
A J7, on réalise des mesures chromamétriques sur les zones étudiées avant et après rasage. Les volontaires répondent également au questionnaire d'auto- évaluation des sensations.At J7, chromametric measurements are made on the zones studied before and after shaving. The volunteers also answer the self-assessment questionnaire.
Les résultats sur les mesures chromamétriques sont présentés dans le tableau ci-dessous :The results on the chromametric measurements are presented in the table below:
Figure imgf000019_0001
Figure imgf000019_0001
Concernant l'évaluation subjective par le questionnaire, les résultats sont présentés dans le tableau suivant :Concerning the subjective evaluation by the questionnaire, the results are presented in the following table:
Figure imgf000019_0002
Figure imgf000020_0001
Figure imgf000019_0002
Figure imgf000020_0001
Ces différents résultats montrent que l'extrait selon l'invention après 7 jours d'applications, permet de diminuer de 20% l'érythème induit après une agression mécanique répétée de façon régulière au niveau du cou. En outre 72% des utilisateurs trouvent que l'utilisation de l'extrait selon l'invention apaise le feu du rasoir.These various results show that the extract according to the invention after 7 days of applications, makes it possible to reduce by 20% the erythema induced after a mechanical aggression repeated regularly at the neck. In addition 72% of users find that the use of the extract according to the invention soothes the razor burn.
4/ COMPOSITION COSMÉTIQUE INCLUANT UN EXTRAIT DE BOERHAVIA DIFFUSA SELON4 / COSMETIC COMPOSITION INCLUDING A BOERHAVIA DIFFUSA EXTRACT ACCORDING TO
L'INVENTION :The INVENTION:
La présente invention couvre aussi les compositions cosmétiques incluant un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa riche en composés hydroxybenzoïques, dans différentes formes galéniques, notamment gel, solution, émulsion, crème....The present invention also covers cosmetic compositions including an extract of Boerhavia diffusa rich in hydroxybenzoic compounds, in various galenic forms, in particular gel, solution, emulsion, cream ....
Il convient alors d'analyser la stabilité des formes galéniques incluant un extrait selon l'invention, ceci dans des proportions comprises entre 1 et 5 %.It is then necessary to analyze the stability of the galenic forms including an extract according to the invention, this in proportions of between 1 and 5%.
La stabilité est caractérisée par une absence de précipitation de l'extrait, une absence de crémage et une absence de déphasage.The stability is characterized by an absence of precipitation of the extract, an absence of creaming and an absence of phase shift.
On peut citer des formulations ayant montré une stabilité physique incluant 5% d'un principe actif, extrait de Boerhavia diffusa selon l'invention.Formulations which have shown a physical stability including 5% of an active principle, extracted from Boerhavia diffusa according to the invention.
Gel limpide : - Carbopol : 0,5% a^ec Triéthanolamine : qsp pH=6,5 - Glycérol : 10,0%Clear gel: - Carbopol: 0.5% with Triethanolamine: qsp pH = 6.5 - Glycerol: 10.0%
- Propylène glycol : 10,0%- Propylene glycol: 10.0%
- Conservateur : 1,0%- Conservative: 1.0%
- Extrait de Boerhavia diffusa : 5,0%- Extract of Boerhavia diffusa: 5.0%
- Eau : 73,5% Gel opaque : - Sépigel 305 : 3,0% - Lαnol 99 : 12,0%- Water: 73.5% opaque gel: - Sepigel 305: 3.0% - Lαnol 99: 12.0%
- Conservateur : 1,0%- Conservative: 1.0%
- Extrait de Boerhavia diffusa : 5,0%- Extract of Boerhavia diffusa: 5.0%
- Eau : 79,0% Gel émulsionné : - Montanov 202 : 3,0%- Water: 79.0% emulsified gel: - Montanov 202: 3.0%
- Isopropyl palmitate : 10,0%- Isopropyl palmitate: 10.0%
- Sepigel 305 : 2%- Sepigel 305: 2%
- Conservateur : 1,0%- Conservative: 1.0%
- Extrait de Boerhavia diffusa : 5,0%- Extract of Boerhavia diffusa: 5.0%
- Eau : 79,0%- Water: 79.0%
Emulsion non ionique - Montane 60 : 2,0%Nonionic emulsion - Montane 60: 2.0%
- Montanox 60 : 4,0%- Montanox 60: 4.0%
- Isopropyl myristate : 8,0%- Isopropyl myristate: 8.0%
- Paraffin wax 130/135 : 3%- Paraffin wax 130/135: 3%
- Conservateur : 1,0%- Conservative: 1.0%
- Extrait de Boerhavia diffusa : 5,0%- Extract of Boerhavia diffusa: 5.0%
- Eau : 77,0%- Water: 77.0%
Emulsion αnionique - Acide stéarique : 7% Triethanolamine qsp pH=8Αnionic emulsion - stearic acid: 7% Triethanolamine qsp pH = 8
- Ritaphyl ICS : 20,0%- Ritaphyl ICS: 20.0%
- Conservateur : 1,0%- Conservative: 1.0%
- Extrait de Boerhavia diffusa : 5,0%- Extract of Boerhavia diffusa: 5.0%
- Eau : 67,0%- Water: 67.0%
Emulsion cαtionique - Quaternium-82 : 5,0%Cationic emulsion - Quaternium-82: 5.0%
- Alcool cétylique : 1,0%- Cetyl alcohol: 1.0%
- Gemseal 60 : 8,0%- Gemseal 60: 8.0%
- Alcool cétéarylique : 1,0%- Cetearyl alcohol: 1.0%
- PEG 100 stéarate : 1,0%- PEG 100 stearate: 1.0%
- Conservateur : 1,0% - Extrait de Boerhavia diffusa : 5,0%- Conservative: 1.0% - Extract of Boerhavia diffusa: 5.0%
- Eau : 78,0%- Water: 78.0%
De plus, des tests ont montré la compatibilité du principe actif avec les matières premières utilisées en cosmétique. On peut également citer quelques exemples de compositions cosmétiques incluant un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa, riche en composés hydroxybenzoïques selon l'invention :In addition, tests have shown the compatibility of the active ingredient with the raw materials used in cosmetics. There may also be mentioned some examples of cosmetic compositions including an extract of Boerhavia diffusa, rich in hydroxybenzoic compounds according to the invention:
- Crème douce :- Gentle cream:
Glycérol (Univar) 6% Simulsol 58 (Seppic) 2%Glycerol (Univar) 6% Simulsol 58 (Seppic) 2%
Simulsol 78 (Seppic) 1%Simulsol 78 (Seppic) 1%
DUB PTC (Stearinerie Dubois) 1%DUB PTC (Stearinerie Dubois) 1%
Huile de palme raffinée (Sictia) 2%Refined palm oil (Sictia) 2%
Cire de lanol CTO (Seppic) 2% Cettaf ine (Laserson) 2%Lanol wax CTO (Seppic) 2% Cettaf ine (Laserson) 2%
Conservateur 1%Conservative 1%
Extrait de Boerhavia diffusa 4%Extract of Boerhavia diffusa 4%
Eau 79%Water 79%
- Lait apaisant : Glycerox 767H (Croda) 4%- Soothing Milk: Glycerox 767H (Croda) 4%
Huile de palme raffinée (Sictia) 5%Refined palm oil (Sictia) 5%
Cetearyl alcohol (Rita) 2%Cetearyl alcohol (Rita) 2%
Lanol 99 (Seppic) 3%Lanol 99 (Seppic) 3%
DC 345 (Dow Corning) 5% Montanov 82 (Seppic) 2%DC 345 (Dow Corning) 5% Montanov 82 (Seppic) 2%
Conservateur 1%Conservative 1%
Extrait de Boerhavia diffusa 4%Extract of Boerhavia diffusa 4%
Eau 74% - Gel crème apaisant :Water 74% - Soothing cream gel:
Carbopol AQUASF (Noveon) 0,5%Carbopol AQUASF (Noveon) 0.5%
Montanov 14 (Seppic) 3,3%Montanov 14 (Seppic) 3.3%
Phytosqualane (Sophim) 2%Phytosqualane (Sophim) 2%
Lanol 99 (Seppic) 6%Lanol 99 (Seppic) 6%
Sensanov VWR (Seppic) 2%Sensanov VWR (Seppic) 2%
DUB Heliocristal (Stéarinerie Dubois) 4,66%DUB Heliocristal (Stéarinerie Dubois) 4.66%
DUB Synersol (Stéarinerie Dubois) 4,66%DUB Synersol (Stéarinerie Dubois) 4.66%
DUB IPP (Stéarinerie Dubois) 3,33%DUB IPP (Stéarinerie Dubois) 3.33%
Conservateur 1%Conservative 1%
Extrait de Boerhavia diffusa 4%Extract of Boerhavia diffusa 4%
Eau 68.55' Water 68.55 '

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1. Utilisation cosmétique d'un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa présentant une teneur en composés hydroxybenzoïques supérieure à 50% des polyphénols totaux, en tant que principe actif pour la préparation d'une composition cosmétique, ledit extrait et/ou ladite composition étant destinés à apaiser la peau et augmenter le confort cutané.1. Cosmetic use of an extract of Boerhavia diffusa having a content of hydroxybenzoic compounds greater than 50% of the total polyphenols, as active ingredient for the preparation of a cosmetic composition, said extract and / or said composition being intended to soothe skin and increase skin comfort.
2. Utilisation cosmétique d'un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa présentant une teneur en composés hydroxybenzoïques supérieure à 50% des polyphénols totaux selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que ledit extrait est dépourvu d'eupalithine glycoside. 2. Cosmetic use of an extract of Boerhavia diffusa having a content of hydroxybenzoic compounds greater than 50% of the total polyphenols according to claim 1, characterized in that said extract is free of eupalithin glycoside.
3. Utilisation cosmétique d'un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa présentant une teneur en composés hydroxybenzoïques supérieure à 50% des polyphénols totaux selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisée en ce que ledit extrait et/ou ladite composition sont destinés à lutter contre une inflammation de la peau.3. Cosmetic use of an extract of Boerhavia diffusa having a content of hydroxybenzoic compounds greater than 50% of the total polyphenols according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that said extract and / or said composition are intended to fight against an inflammation of the skin.
4. Utilisation cosmétique d'un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa présentant une teneur en composés hydroxybenzoïques supérieure à 50% des polyphénols totaux selon l'une des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisée en ce que ledit extrait et/ou ladite composition sont destinés à réduire des sensations de picotement de la peau et à diminuer des érythèmes cutanés.4. Cosmetic use of an extract of Boerhavia diffusa having a content of hydroxybenzoic compounds greater than 50% of the total polyphenols according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that said extract and / or said composition are intended to reduce feeling of tingling of the skin and to reduce erythema of the skin.
5. Utilisation cosmétique d'un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa présentant une teneur en composés hydroxybenzoïques supérieure à 50% des polyphénols totaux selon l'une des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisée en ce que ledit extrait et/ou ladite composition sont destinés à apaiser la peau agressée.5. Cosmetic use of an extract of Boerhavia diffusa having a content of hydroxybenzoic compounds greater than 50% of the total polyphenols according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that said extract and / or said composition are intended to soothe the skin attacked.
6. Utilisation cosmétique d'un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa présentant une teneur en composés hydroxybenzoïques supérieure à 50% des polyphénols totaux selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 5, caractérisée en ce que ledit extrait stimule la libération d'une neurohormone anti-inflammatoire a-MSH.6. Cosmetic use of a Boerhavia diffusa extract with a content of hydroxybenzoic compounds greater than 50% of the total polyphenols according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that said extract stimulates the release of an anti-inflammatory neurohormone α-MSH.
7. Utilisation cosmétique d'un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 5, caractérisée en ce que ledit extrait limite l'amplification de la réaction inflammatoire en réduisant la libération de médiateurs pro-inf lammatoires type PGE2.7. Cosmetic use of a Boerhavia diffusa extract according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that said extract limits the amplification of the inflammatory reaction by reducing the release of pro-inflammatory mediators type PGE2.
8. Utilisation cosmétique d'un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 5, caractérisée en ce que ledit extrait limite l'amplification de la réaction inflammatoire en diminuant l'activation des NF-κB. 8. Cosmetic use of a Boerhavia diffusa extract according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that said extract limits the amplification of the inflammatory reaction by decreasing the activation of NF-κB.
9. Procédé d'obtention d'une substance adaptée pour l'utilisation selon l'une quelconque des précédentes revendications, caractérisée en ce que ledit extrait comprend les étapes suivantes :9. Process for obtaining a substance suitable for use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said extract comprises the following steps:
- solubilisation de poudre de racine de Boerhavia diffusa dans un mélange eau/butylène glycol 50/50, - hydrolyse(s) enzymatique(s) simultanée(s) ou successive(s) au moyen d'au moins une enzyme de type carbohydrase,solubilization of Boerhavia root powder diffusa in a 50/50 water / butylene glycol mixture, simultaneous or successive enzymatic hydrolysis (s) using at least one carbohydrase enzyme,
- séparation des phases soluble et insoluble,separation of the soluble and insoluble phases,
- inactivation enzymatique par traitement thermique,- Enzymatic inactivation by heat treatment,
- f iltration, et - f iltration stérilisante.f iltration, and sterilizing f iltration.
10. Principe actif obtenu par la mise en oeuvre du procédé selon la revendication 9, caractérisé par :Active principle obtained by the implementation of the process according to claim 9, characterized by:
- un taux de matières sèches compris entre 5 et 250 g/1,a solids content of between 5 and 250 g / l,
- un pH compris entre 2 et 7, - une teneur en polyphénols totaux comprise entre 0,07 et 4,0 g/1.a pH of between 2 and 7, a total polyphenol content of between 0.07 and 4.0 g / l.
11. Principe actif obtenu par la mise en oeuvre du procédé selon la revendication 9, caractérisé par :11. Active ingredient obtained by the implementation of the process according to claim 9, characterized by:
- un taux de matières sèches compris entre 15 et 35 g/1, - un pH compris entre 4 et 5,a solids content of between 15 and 35 g / l, a pH of between 4 and 5,
- une teneur en polyphénols totaux comprise entre 0,2 et 0,55 g/1.a total polyphenol content of between 0.2 and 0.55 g / l.
12. Composition cosmétique destinée à une activité apaisante, adaptée pour l'utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 8, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend au moins un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa présentant une teneur en composés hydroxybenzoïques supérieure à 50% des polyphénols totaux, et en ce qu'elle se présente sous forme de crèmes, émulsions huile-dans- eau, émulsions eau-dans-huile, émulsions multiples, solutions, suspensions ou poudres. 12. Cosmetic composition for a soothing activity, suitable for use according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it comprises at least one extract of Boerhavia diffusa having a content of hydroxybenzoic compounds greater than 50% total polyphenols, and in the form of creams, oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, multiple emulsions, solutions, suspensions or powders.
13. Composition cosmétique destinée à une activité apaisante, adaptée pour l'utilisation selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 8, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend entre 0,01 et 20 % d'au moins un extrait de Boerhavia diffusa présentant une teneur en composés hydroxybenzoïques supérieure à 50% des polyphénols13. Cosmetic composition for a soothing activity, suitable for use according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it comprises between 0.01 and 20% of at least one extract of Boerhavia diffusa having a content of hydroxybenzoic compounds greater than 50% of the polyphenols
14. Procédé cosmétique destiné à apaiser la peau et à augmenter le confort cutané consistant à appliquer par voie topique sur la peau une composition selon la revendication 12 ou 13.14. A cosmetic process for soothing the skin and increasing the skin comfort of applying topically to the skin a composition according to claim 12 or 13.
15. Procédé cosmétique destiné à lutter contre une inflammation de la peau, à réduire des sensations de picotement de la peau, à diminuer des érythèmes cutanés, et/ou à apaiser la peau agressée consistant à appliquer par voie topique sur la peau une composition selon la revendication 12 ou 13. 15. A cosmetic method for combating inflammation of the skin, reducing tingling sensations of the skin, reducing skin rashes, and / or soothing the attacked skin of applying topically to the skin a composition according to claim 12 or 13.
PCT/FR2008/051570 2007-09-03 2008-09-03 Use of boerhavia diffusa extract for skin relief WO2009044040A1 (en)

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FR0757314 2007-09-03
FR0757314A FR2920303B1 (en) 2007-09-03 2007-09-03 USE OF A BOERHAVIA EXTRACT TO SOOTH SKIN.

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EP2082725A3 (en) * 2008-01-11 2013-06-26 Coty Prestige Lancaster Group GmbH Sunscreen cosmetic set and cosmetic method for treating sensitive skin
DE102009002883A1 (en) 2009-05-06 2010-11-11 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Scalp-friendly and scalp-soothing shampoos and conditioners
WO2010127918A2 (en) 2009-05-06 2010-11-11 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Non-irritating, scalp soothing shampoos and conditioners
WO2010127895A2 (en) 2009-05-06 2010-11-11 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Scalp soothing hair dyeing/perming agents
DE102009002880A1 (en) 2009-05-06 2010-11-18 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Scalp-soothing hair dye / wellmittel
WO2010127895A3 (en) * 2009-05-06 2011-03-31 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Scalp soothing hair dyeing/perming agents containing boerhavia extracts
WO2010127918A3 (en) * 2009-05-06 2011-05-12 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Non-irritating, scalp soothing shampoos and conditioners
DE102010027949A1 (en) 2010-04-20 2011-10-20 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Hair and scalp-friendly hair dye and perming agent
DE102011088254A1 (en) 2011-12-12 2013-06-13 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Hair-friendly hair dye and perming agent
WO2013087469A1 (en) 2011-12-12 2013-06-20 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Hair-protecting hair colorants and permanent waving compositions
CN111961702A (en) * 2020-07-22 2020-11-20 上海珈蓓生物科技有限公司 Cytological evaluation method for anti-skin infectious inflammatory reaction of plant extract and application thereof

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FR2920303B1 (en) 2017-11-17

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