EP0638676A1 - Procédé de tissage utilisant des chaînes de fils multifilaments non appret non-texturés ainsi que tissu ainsi obtenu - Google Patents

Procédé de tissage utilisant des chaînes de fils multifilaments non appret non-texturés ainsi que tissu ainsi obtenu Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0638676A1
EP0638676A1 EP19940112380 EP94112380A EP0638676A1 EP 0638676 A1 EP0638676 A1 EP 0638676A1 EP 19940112380 EP19940112380 EP 19940112380 EP 94112380 A EP94112380 A EP 94112380A EP 0638676 A1 EP0638676 A1 EP 0638676A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
yarn
multifilament
size
yarns
stabilized
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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Application number
EP19940112380
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Burkhard Dr. Bönigk
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Hoechst AG
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Hoechst AG
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Publication date
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Publication of EP0638676A1 publication Critical patent/EP0638676A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D23/00General weaving methods not special to the production of any particular woven fabric or the use of any particular loom; Weaves not provided for in any other single group
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/208Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
    • D03D15/225Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based artificial, e.g. viscose
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/41Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with specific twist
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/44Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with specific cross-section or surface shape
    • D03D15/46Flat yarns, e.g. tapes or films
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/49Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads textured; curled; crimped
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02Cotton
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/22Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
    • D10B2201/24Viscose
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02Wool
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2321/00Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D10B2321/02Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polyolefins
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2321/00Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D10B2321/10Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated nitriles, e.g. polyacrylonitrile, polyvinylidene cyanide
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/02Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/30Woven fabric [i.e., woven strand or strip material]
    • Y10T442/3065Including strand which is of specific structural definition
    • Y10T442/3089Cross-sectional configuration of strand material is specified
    • Y10T442/3114Cross-sectional configuration of the strand material is other than circular
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/30Woven fabric [i.e., woven strand or strip material]
    • Y10T442/3179Woven fabric is characterized by a particular or differential weave other than fabric in which the strand denier or warp/weft pick count is specified
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/30Woven fabric [i.e., woven strand or strip material]
    • Y10T442/3179Woven fabric is characterized by a particular or differential weave other than fabric in which the strand denier or warp/weft pick count is specified
    • Y10T442/322Warp differs from weft
    • Y10T442/3228Materials differ
    • Y10T442/326Including synthetic polymeric strand material
    • Y10T442/3276Including polyamide strand material
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/30Woven fabric [i.e., woven strand or strip material]
    • Y10T442/3179Woven fabric is characterized by a particular or differential weave other than fabric in which the strand denier or warp/weft pick count is specified
    • Y10T442/322Warp differs from weft
    • Y10T442/3228Materials differ
    • Y10T442/326Including synthetic polymeric strand material
    • Y10T442/3285Including polyester strand material

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a weaving method in which size-free warp yarns are used, and to the fabrics which can be produced thereafter.
  • a yarn When used as a warp thread in a weaving machine, a yarn is subject to a large number of mechanical stresses. This includes influences of the dynamic stretching of the yarn, which can lead to loosening of the sizing film, partial dissolving of the intermingling and chafing of adjacent warp threads. Furthermore, the gradual passage through the warp thread monitor causes the yarns to rub against the slats; the constant change of subject causes a relative movement between adjacent filaments, which results in chafing and stretching of the filaments; the strands are subjected to multiple stresses, such as chafing or kinking; there is a scouring and a high relative movement in the reed. In addition, the yarns are damaged by functional elements of the weaving machine, for example by relay nozzles, which can destroy the thread closure by piercing the yarn, and can cause filament breaks, which in turn can lead to thread breaks.
  • threads are sized.
  • the sizing of warp chains from the processing of staple fiber yarns from natural fibers has been known for a long time (see, for example, Falkai et al. "Synthesefaser '', pp. 334-5, Verlag Chemie, 1981).
  • the sizing is intended for the elementary threads of the yarn for connect the weaving process with each other However, keep the yarns well separated from each other to form the shed.
  • the degree of intermingling has so far been determined for the characterization of intermingled yarns. This is done with the help of known vortex testers.
  • Examples of this are needle test devices, mechanical thick / thin point scanners or optical thick / thin point sensors.
  • the needle test value was usually given, measured with the Rothschild needle test device R 2040 or the HOOKDROP test, as described in US Pat. No. 2,985,995; or the number of swirl nodes per unit length was measured, e.g. with the Reutlinger Interlace Counter or the "ITEMAT" from Enka Tecnica. Both measurement values assess the thread closure of the filaments in the yarn. With the help of these methods one obtains a statement about the length and number of the thread segments closed or left open by the intermingling.
  • a weaving method is provided with which multifilament smooth yarns as thread chains can also be weaved without the need for modern, fast-running weaving machine systems are. Furthermore, the invention provides fabrics which have been produced without the use of sizes and which contain bonds which are critical for processing.
  • the thread tension of the stabilized and size-free multifilament smooth yarn is determined in accordance with step iv) with a measuring device which is also able to indicate short-term tension peaks, for example with the Denkendorf thread tension tensor "DEFAT".
  • the method according to the invention can be implemented on all conventional weaving machine types. Examples of this are types of weaving machines in which the weft thread is inserted, for example, with shooter, projectile, gripper or nozzles (water or air). Gripper, projectile, water or air weaving machines, in particular air weaving machines, are preferred.
  • Stabilized and size-free multifilament smooth yarns are to be understood here as those yarn types which have a high thread density, for example a thread density of 40/26 threads per cm, with a warp thread tension which occurs under the loads on the weaving machine and even with the plain weave known as L1 / 1 in warp / weft, not only on conventional, but also and in particular on modern weaving machine systems based on weft insertion via air or water can be processed practically without problems.
  • the interference factor per 1000 warp threads and 10,000 weft threads is less than 0.02 and that the efficiency is over 80%, preferably over 95%.
  • the useful effect is to be understood as the ratio of the time practically required under predetermined machine settings at full capacity to the time theoretically required.
  • weft insertion speeds of 300 to 800 wefts / minute are usually used, the efficiency being above 80%, preferably above 95%.
  • weft insertion speeds of more than 800 wefts / minute are also possible.
  • Weft insertion speeds of 400 to 800 wefts / minute are preferred.
  • multifilament smooth yarn is understood to mean a multifilament yarn that is composed of a large number of individual filaments and that is not a high-twisted yarn.
  • the yarn according to the invention has practically no twist; however, it is possible that the yarn according to the invention has a protective twist has, for example, a swirl of up to 50 T / m.
  • Virtually all yarns that are made up of continuous filaments and that have been stabilized during their manufacture or further processing are suitable as stabilized multifilament smooth yarns. These include, for example, nitrided, welded, glued, fused or, in particular, intermingled smooth yarns.
  • Examples of this are one-component or multi-component smooth filament yarns which have been subjected to stabilization, such as intermingling, preferably air intermingling.
  • the yarns according to the invention are not subject to any restrictions if yarns from filaments (continuous filaments) can be produced therefrom. It can be yarns made from semi-synthetic fibers, for example yarns made from cellulose fibers, or in particular yarns made from synthetic fibers, e.g. made from polyamides, polyolefins, polyacrylonitrile or in particular polyesters, such as polyethylene terephthalate or polybutylene terephthalate.
  • Filament yarns made of synthetic fibers, in particular polyester, which are very particularly preferably air-entangled, are particularly preferred.
  • the yarns can also be in the form of filament blends and / or plies.
  • Smooth yarns made from drawn multifilaments are very particularly preferred, in particular those with the dtex 76f128, 100f128, 76f64, 50f80 and 50f40 titers
  • the term "size-free multifilament smooth yarn” is to be understood as meaning a multifilament smooth yarn which can be used practically when used in an otherwise customary weaving process and which does not require a size to carry out this weaving process.
  • this yarn does not mean that this yarn cannot have any of the customary preparations or finishing agents that have been applied to the yarn, for example to carry out or facilitate the manufacturing or further processing steps preceding the actual weaving process.
  • This preferred embodiment of the present invention is made possible, inter alia, by the knowledge that sizes can be dispensed with when used on the weaving machine, if yarns with a low opening tendency are used, and if simple control methods are available for testing such yarns.
  • One such control method is the method described above for measuring the tendency of multifilament smooth yarn to open under dynamic mechanical stress. With the help of this method, it is possible to sufficiently simulate the conditions prevailing on weaving machines and to develop yarns and the setting of machine parameters of the weaving machine that allow the use of size-free thread chains in practice.
  • the degree of intermingling VG beginning and end VG of the yarn to be tested can be determined in a manner known per se .
  • turbulence testing devices are needle test devices or preferably mechanical thick / thin point scanners or in particular optical thick / thin point sensors.
  • Examples of mechanical thick / thin point scanners are the Reutlingen interlace counter, as described in chemical fibers / textile industry, 29 (10), pp. 862-4 (1979) or the Itemat test device for interlacing, as in chemical fibers / textile industry, 36/88 , Pp. 99 ff. (1986).
  • optical thick / thin point sensors are described in EP-A-465,842 and in EP-A-340,600; in the broadest sense, these are systems which, with the aid of optical methods, such as shading, diffraction or reflection, allow the measured variable to be assigned to the thick / thin areas of the tested yarn.
  • degree of intermingling is to be understood in the context of this description in the sense that it is a measured value that is obtained by testing the yarn to be used according to the invention, ie also a non-intermingled yarn (for example a welded yarn) with a intermingling tester becomes. With this measurement, the thread closure of the filaments in the yarn is assessed; ie length and number of closed or open thread segments.
  • the change in the thread closure or the change in the degree of intermingling of the yarn to be used according to the invention is determined in a practical manner under a predetermined static thread tension and under an additional dynamic mechanical load.
  • the yarn undergoes a deflection in the section and is guided under a predetermined and non-pulsed tension.
  • the yarn undergoes a deflection in the test section, the angle between the two parts of the yarn path being approximately 50 to approximately 5 °, and the deflection being caused by the arrangement of the transport devices and the Radial force measuring device is caused.
  • the tension can be regulated in a manner known per se, for example by regulating the speed of the transport rollers.
  • the static thread tension is monitored by means of the thread tension measuring device.
  • the yarn is thus guided under a predetermined and non-pulsed tension in the test section.
  • the transport devices can be any device suitable for yarn transport. Examples of this are commercially available, motor-driven godets or delivery plants, preferably frequency-controlled.
  • the transport devices are preferably pairs of rollers around which the yarn to be tested is guided several times and the speed of which can be regulated separately. This makes it possible, for example, to simulate a tension as occurs in a thread chain during its manufacture or processing on the weaving machine.
  • the thread tension measuring device can likewise be any device suitable for this purpose. Examples of this are the Rothschild tensiometer, the Honigmann Tensitron, the Denkendorf thread tension tensor or the thread tension meter from REES.
  • the length of the test track can fluctuate within wide limits; typical values are in the range from 50 to 3000 cm, preferably 150 to 200 cm (weaving machine dimensions).
  • the yarn is periodically deflected in the test section perpendicular to the yarn axis by a predetermined length and at a predetermined frequency. This is done by means of a deflection device which acts on the yarn to be tested within the test section.
  • the deflection device can be any device suitable for this purpose.
  • deflection devices are pistons or eccentrics operating perpendicular to the yarn axis and, in particular, blades rotating perpendicular to the yarn axis, which exert an impact pulse, defined in terms of height and frequency, on the moving yarn.
  • the frequency of the deflection device can also vary within wide limits; as well as the amount of tension impulses to be applied to the yarn.
  • the frequency and tension pulses are selected in an order of magnitude so that the behavior of a thread chain is simulated on a weaving machine.
  • Typical values for the frequency of the deflection device are in the range from 5 to 50 Hz, preferably in the range from 8 to 35 Hz.
  • Typical values for the magnitude of the tension impulses to be applied to the yarn lie in such a range that the total tension in the yarn - i.e. the sum of the static yarn tension and the proportion of the tension acting periodically on the yarn (values of the tension amplitude) - is in the range of 0 , 05 to 1.0 cN / dtex, preferably in the range from 0.1 to 0.7 cN / dtex.
  • the total tension is preferably chosen to be at least equal to the warp thread tension occurring on the weaving machine.
  • the method described above for characterizing thread chains is very particularly preferably used.
  • the yarn is passed through the test section in the form of a thread chain.
  • the check is carried out either one after the other on individual yarn strands or on several yarn strands of the thread chain or also on all thread strands of the thread chain.
  • Such thread chains preferably consist of two to five yarns; the deflection device preferably acts on a plurality of such yarns.
  • the degree of intermingling VG beginning and end VG are obtained as measured variables, for example as the number of intermingling points per unit length of the yarn.
  • a test variable is the tendency of the yarn according to the invention to open under the test conditions in the test section.
  • the evaluation of the measured variables VG beginn and VG end at a predetermined total thread tension K F can be carried out in different ways.
  • the quotients VG beginn / VG end or VG end / VG beginn at a certain total thread tension K F are a characteristic for the behavior of the yarn under dynamic mechanical loading.
  • the total thread tension K F is assumed to be the sum of the static thread tension and a portion of the dynamic thread tension which acts periodically on the yarn and is caused by the deflection and which prevails in the deflected yarn as it is transported through the test section.
  • the distribution of the measured values of the degree of intermingling VG of yarns usually obeys a Poisson function. However, with the same mean values, this is dependent on different parameters, such as yarn material, the conditions during the creation of the thread closure and thread running conditions, and its width is very different.
  • the yarn to be used according to the invention has, in addition to the sizes VS (K F ) and VG medium / VG max, values of VG max ⁇ 30 mm, preferably from 11 to 22 mm, in particular from 18 to 22 mm, determined with the Rothschild needle tester type 2040.
  • Preferred multifilament flat yarns to be used according to the invention have VS (K F ) values which are in the range from 60 to 100%.
  • multifilament smooth yarns as defined above, whose VS (K F ) value is 45-90% and which is measured at a frequency of 15 Hertz and with such a maximum deflection in step c), so that at the maximum deflection a total thread tension K F of 0.2 to 0.42 cN / dtex results in the multifilament smooth yarn.
  • the single filament titer of the multifilament flat yarns to be used according to the invention can fluctuate within wide limits; typically this titer is 0.3 to 6.5 dtex, preferably 0.6 to 1.5 dtex, and very particularly preferably less than 1.0 dtex.
  • the yarn titer of the multifilament flat yarns to be used according to the invention can also vary within wide limits; typically this yarn titer is 20 to 600 dtex, preferably 40 to 400 dtex.
  • the number of capillaries of the multifilament flat yarn to be used according to the invention typically ranges from 20 to 200, preferably from 40 to 180.
  • Types with lower capillary numbers are particularly difficult to use as warp yarns. It is therefore to be regarded as particularly surprising that such yarns can still be woven without any problems without size.
  • the invention preferably relates to a weaving method as defined above, in which multifilament plain yarns with capillary numbers of more than 20, in particular more than 30, are used.
  • the multifilament smooth yarns to be used according to the invention have sufficient strength; in the case of plain polyester yarns, the tensile strengths are more than 2 g / denier, preferably more than 3 g / denier.
  • the multifilament smooth yarns to be used according to the invention are usually fluid-intermingled multifilament yarns, preferably air-interlaced multifilament yarns.
  • the stabilized and size-free multifilament smooth yarns to be used according to the invention have to be produced with a thread closure that is sufficient for size-free weaving and a sufficient tendency to open. It has been found that such yarns can be produced and processed if the thread is guided with low tension from the place of manufacture (stabilization), in particular the intermingling, and from there to the manufacture of the finished raw fabric, and is preferably carried out with low tension with particular tension become.
  • the method according to the invention is particularly preferably carried out in such a way that the yarn tension is kept particularly constant at the location of the intermingling and during weaving, in particular that the fluctuation of the yarn tension is less than + / - 0.1 cN / dtex.
  • This constant voltage can be achieved by means of measures known per se, for example in that supply mechanisms or godets are controlled and regulated by frequency converters.
  • Any single or multi-component filament yarns can be used as master yarns for the production of the stabilized and size-free multifilament flat yarns; these yarns are usually drawn before interlacing, unless the filament yarns are the fastest spun and can no longer be drawn.
  • the rovings are usually fully drawn yarns, i.e. for types whose maximum tensile force elongation at 25 ° C is less than 80%.
  • the orientation and stretching of the spun threads can be carried out in a manner known per se.
  • a fully oriented yarn (FOY) can already be produced during the spinning process, which generally no longer needs to be drawn; or it is possible to produce a yarn which can be subsequently processed into a drawn yarn in a post-drawing process.
  • These latter post-stretchable yarns are usually LOY, MOY, HOY or POY yarns.
  • LOY, MOY, HOY, POY and FOY are well known and e.g. in chemical fibers / textile industry, 6/1985, p. 411-2.
  • the stretching can follow the spinning process directly or can be carried out in a separate step, for example combined with a customary aftertreatment, such as fixing.
  • the stretching can also take place immediately before being fed to the swirling unit, for example by means of upstream stretching godets.
  • This variant can be carried out within a post-treatment section or integrated in the spinning process before the location of the intermingling.
  • the stretching and swirling can take place in succession in one step, e.g. by swirling a FOY yarn directly in the spinning shaft before winding the yarn. However, it can also only take place in a downstream process, for example by rewinding or re-looping.
  • the stretching and swirling can also take place in two or more stages. For example, Partially orient yarns during spinning, e.g. as LOY, MOY or POY yarns, and can then be drawn in a subsequent stage, e.g. when drawing bobbins or drawing twine.
  • the interlacing takes place only in a subsequent process stage, after the yarn has been drawn and before it is wound up.
  • One- or multi-component yarns can be selected that run into the intermingling unit once or several times and in any case leave it as a compact yarn.
  • the intermingling can also be carried out in several stages, the yarn passing through a number of intermingling nozzles connected in series.
  • the presentation and feeding of the multifilament roving to the intermingling unit takes place by means of measures and devices which are conventional per se.
  • texturing yarns for the blowing nozzle it is known that the filament material is fed to the blowing nozzle at a higher speed than is drawn off from it.
  • the excess speed of the feed compared to the take-off expressed as a percentage based on the take-off speed, is referred to as the advance.
  • the Advance of the multifilament roving is selected so that a practically lint-free and loop-free yarn is formed. This is usually the case with leads of less than 3%. In individual cases, however, higher leads can be selected as long as a smooth, intermingled yarn is formed, preferably a multifilament smooth yarn which has the above-defined values for the opening tendency and the thread closure of the interconnected filaments.
  • the multifilament roving is intermingled in the intermingling nozzle by means of a fluid, for example by means of liquids or in particular by means of gases. Air is preferred.
  • the intermingling pressure is to be selected in the individual case so that the required maximum limit of the yarn tension at the location of the intermingling is not exceeded and that a smooth yarn is formed. Typical values for the swirl pressure are 1.5 to 7.5 bar. However, higher pressures are also possible.
  • the roving is preferably swirled with air with the addition of a liquid which wets the roving during the swirling process, for example water.
  • the multifilament smooth yarn formed is drawn off from the intermingling unit. This can be done by means of devices known per se, for example with godets. When choosing the withdrawal tension, care should be taken that the tension of the yarn at the location of the intermingling is less than or equal to 0.6 cN / dtex, preferably 0.1 to 0.4 cN / dtex.
  • the intermingled multifilament smooth yarn can then be subjected to a fixing treatment by passing it through a heating device; typical temperatures of the yarn as it passes through the heating device are in the range from 60 to 250 ° C.
  • the stabilization described can be carried out on individual, unground or folded yarns, which are then wound up and processed into a thread chain in a further step.
  • the method can also be integrated into the production of warp beams, in that the swirling is carried out by means of a multiplicity of swirling nozzles connected in parallel on the family of threads provided for the production of the warp beam. Examples of such integrated processes can be found in DE-AS-2,611,547, EP-A-152,919, DE-A-3,711,767 and DE-A-3,727,262.
  • the conditions during swirling at each of these nozzles can be kept the same or different; in particular, the type of nozzles can be varied or process parameters such as thread tension, intermingling pressure or the application of liquid before and / or after the location of the intermingling on the yarn.
  • the stabilized and size-free multifilament smooth yarns are further processed in the usual way in warp preparation, for example by warping or slip.
  • the yarn does not require any further post-treatment; if desired, however, it can still be oiled or waxed in a manner known per se in order to improve its sliding properties on and / or on the machine parts of the weaving machine, preferably by the friction coefficient of the yarn against thread guiding elements, in particular lamellae, strands of the heald frames and reed, belittling.
  • the oiling or regrowth takes place after the location of the intermingling, for example before a first winding up or during a rewinding process or draw-off winding process or during warp preparation.
  • Warp beams with a width of 1.50 to 1.80 m are preferred; 6000 to 8000 threads with a thread density of 40 threads / cm are wound onto these warp beams, for example.
  • the invention therefore also relates to a weaving method in which thread chains with thread densities of more than 30 threads / cm, in particular greater than or equal to 40 threads / cm, are used.
  • All textile or technical yarns can be used as weft yarns, such as spun fiber yarns or smooth or textured multifilament yarns. Multi-component yarns can also be used.
  • weft yarn materials such as the yarns made of semi-synthetic fibers or yarns made of synthetic fibers mentioned in the description of the warp yarns; yarns made from natural fibers can also be used.
  • weft yarn materials are polyamides, polyolefins, polyacrylonitrile, polyester, viscose, cotton or wool.
  • Weft yarns made of synthetic fibers, in particular polyester, which are particularly preferably textured or air-entangled are preferred.
  • dtex 167f32, 1 dtex 150f240 or dtex 100f160 are particularly preferred; dtex 167f32 is particularly preferred for air-entangled polyester weft yarns.
  • viscose or polyester yarns are preferred, in particular in Nm 34 x 1.
  • Any weave constructions can be produced with the method according to the invention; twill, satin or satin weaves with all their variants are preferred. Plain weaves are particularly preferred.
  • Preferred weft thread densities for plain weave are more than 20 threads / cm.
  • the invention also relates to a fabric with warp threads on the basis of stabilized and plainly woven multifilament smooth yarns whose warp thread density is more than 30 threads / cm and whose weft thread density is more than 20 threads / cm.
  • the invention relates to such a plain weave fabric.
  • Example 1 Production of a size-free fabric from a plain yarn chain made of FOY with the dtex 50f40 titer
  • FOY dtex 50f40 x 1 round made of polyethylene terephthalate was used as the original yarn.
  • the yarn was spun using technology known per se, as described, for example, in DE-A-2,117,659.
  • a swirled yarn was produced from the original yarn thus produced by rewinding on a winding machine. During rewinding, the yarn was air-entangled at a frequency of 1100 knots / second.
  • the thread tension when entering the intermingling nozzle was kept particularly constant and was less than 0.6 cN / dtex.
  • the winding tension was also less than 0.6 cN / dtex.
  • the finished yarn is characterized by the following characteristic data: Total thread tension K F (cN / dtex) VS (K F ) (%) VG medium (mm) VG max (mm) IL medium (1 / m) LK medium (mm) unencumbered 100 12th 18th 76 2.5 0.2 96 12th 18th 73 2.0 0.4 86 12th 22 65 1.6 0.6 57 21 65 43 1.3
  • Example 2 Production of a size-free fabric from a plain yarn chain made of FOY with the dtex 76f128 titer
  • FOY of the titer dtex 76f128 x 1 round made of polyethylene terephthalate was used as the original yarn.
  • the yarn was spun using technology known per se, e.g. in DE-A-2,117,659.
  • the yarn was air-entangled at a frequency of 5500 knots / second.
  • the thread tension when entering the intermingling nozzle was kept particularly constant and was less than 0.6 cN / dtex.
  • the winding tension was also less than 0.6 cN / dtex.
  • Example 3 Production of a size-free plain yarn chain from FOY with the title dtex 76f128
  • FOY of the dtex 76f128 titer made of polyethylene terephthalate was used as the master yarn.
  • the yarn was spun using technology known per se, e.g. in DE-A-2,117,659.
  • a swirled yarn was produced from the original yarn thus produced by rewinding on a winding machine. During the rewinding, the yarn was air-entangled at a frequency of 1700 knots / second.
  • the thread tension at the entry into the intermingling nozzle was kept particularly constant and was less than 0.6 cN / dtex.
  • the winding tension was less than 0.6 cN / dtex.
  • the finished yarn is characterized by the following characteristic data: Total thread tension K F (cN / dtex) VS (K F ) (%) VG medium (mm) VG max (mm) IL medium (1 / m) LK medium (mm) unencumbered 100 7.5 12.5 89 4.2 0.13 100 7.1 11.1 85 4.8 0.40 100 7.1 15.2 85 4.8 0.66 88 8.0 14.1 73 5.6

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
EP19940112380 1993-08-14 1994-08-08 Procédé de tissage utilisant des chaînes de fils multifilaments non appret non-texturés ainsi que tissu ainsi obtenu Withdrawn EP0638676A1 (fr)

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DE4327371 1993-08-14
DE19934327371 DE4327371C2 (de) 1993-08-14 1993-08-14 Webverfahren unter Einsatz von Fadenketten aus schlichtefreien Multifilamentglattgarnen, sowie danach hergestellte Gewebe

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EP0638676A1 true EP0638676A1 (fr) 1995-02-15

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DE19756106A1 (de) * 1996-12-20 1998-06-25 Rieter Ag Maschf Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Gewebes und nach diesem hergestelltes Gewebe
WO2019197888A1 (fr) * 2018-04-14 2019-10-17 Gupta Ronak Rajendra Tissu textile tissé à nombre élevé de fils et son procédé de préparation

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EP0738793B1 (fr) * 1995-04-22 1999-05-12 Akzo Nobel N.V. Fil constitué de filaments synthétiques entrelacés pour la production de tissus techniques
EP0784108A1 (fr) * 1996-01-13 1997-07-16 Akzo Nobel N.V. Fil multifilament embrouillé sans encollage et procédé pour sa fabrication
US5617903A (en) * 1996-03-04 1997-04-08 Bowen, Jr.; David Papermaker's fabric containing multipolymeric filaments
US5788907A (en) * 1996-03-15 1998-08-04 Clark-Schwebel, Inc. Fabrics having improved ballistic performance and processes for making the same
US5881776A (en) * 1997-01-24 1999-03-16 Safety Components Fabric Technologies, Inc. Rapier woven low permeability air bag fabric
DE29711904U1 (de) * 1997-07-07 1997-11-06 Trw Repa Gmbh Gassack für ein Rückhaltesystem in Fahrzeugen und Gewebe zu seiner Herstellung
DE102005007140B4 (de) * 2005-02-17 2008-05-15 C. Cramer, Weberei, Heek-Nienborg, Gmbh & Co. Kg Textiles Flächengebilde
DE202005008939U1 (de) * 2005-06-07 2005-08-04 Trw Automotive Safety Systems Gmbh Gassack
CN1966793B (zh) * 2006-11-24 2010-07-07 华明浩 棉、人造丝异经织物的单织轴生产方法
EP2155100A4 (fr) * 2007-06-08 2013-11-06 Cynosure Inc Suite de sécurité de chirurgie thermique
EP2322385B1 (fr) * 2009-11-09 2015-02-25 Coroplast Fritz Müller GmbH & Co. KG Bande adhésive de tissu à déchirement transversal ayant une résistance à la friction élevée
CN103437024B (zh) * 2013-08-01 2015-01-14 深圳全棉时代科技有限公司 一种全棉自然弹面料的制造方法
US11225733B2 (en) 2018-08-31 2022-01-18 Arun Agarwal Proliferated thread count of a woven textile by simultaneous insertion within a single pick insertion event of a loom apparatus multiple adjacent parallel yarns drawn from a multi-pick yarn package
CN109735926B (zh) * 2018-12-27 2020-10-16 江苏恒力化纤股份有限公司 易染多孔改性聚酯纤维及其制备方法

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DE19756106A1 (de) * 1996-12-20 1998-06-25 Rieter Ag Maschf Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Gewebes und nach diesem hergestelltes Gewebe
WO2019197888A1 (fr) * 2018-04-14 2019-10-17 Gupta Ronak Rajendra Tissu textile tissé à nombre élevé de fils et son procédé de préparation

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US5421377A (en) 1995-06-06
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