CN116334811A - 一种生物防缩与改性靛蓝染色羊毛条制备的羊毛牛仔精纺呢绒 - Google Patents
一种生物防缩与改性靛蓝染色羊毛条制备的羊毛牛仔精纺呢绒 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明涉及一种生物防缩与改性靛蓝染色羊毛条制备的羊毛牛仔精纺呢绒，属于纺织技术领域。选用美丽奴羊毛条作为原料，依次经过生物防缩、改性靛蓝染料染色、复洗、二次染色、混条、梳毛、复精梳、粗纱、细纱、并捻筒、蒸纱、织造(与棉纬纱交织)、湿整、干整制成羊毛比例大于50％的面料成品。本发明的有益效果是采用该方法生产的羊毛精纺面料不仅具有羊毛的保暖性好、手感柔软等自身特性，还具有牛仔风格、回弹好等性能。本发明解决了传统靛蓝染料因染色条件不适无法用于羊毛染色而影响羊毛牛仔面料开发的问题，可实现高含量羊毛牛仔风格面料的开发。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及一种生物防缩与改性靛蓝染色羊毛条制备的羊毛牛仔精纺呢绒，属于纺织技术领域。
背景技术
由于存在羊毛水洗毡缩、靛蓝染色困难等关键技术环节上的一些难题尚未得到有效攻克，目前国际上关于羊毛牛仔面料(特别是以毛为主)的研发尚不多见，市场上也没有此类产品大批量生产应用的报导。少量已有研究均是以棉为主的羊毛牛仔面料(不是真正意义上的“羊毛牛仔”)，主要有两个路线：一是采用棉毛纤维混合(棉为主体)制备混纺牛仔织物，但存在两种纤维配伍性差、混纺性不佳问题。另一路线是沿袭传统牛仔面料生产方式，采用靛蓝染色的棉经纱(或棉与少量羊毛混纺纱)，与未染色的羊毛或毛棉混合纬纱(羊毛比例仅10％左右)织成含羊毛牛仔面料。因毛比例小，牛仔面料缺乏毛料的手感和外观，面料与纯棉牛仔手感差异不大。
随着人们生活水平的日益提高和纺织品消费观念的变化，消费者对服装舒适性要求不断提高，牛仔面料的开发也出现很多新产品。牛仔面料已不局限于纯棉靛蓝染色斜纹布的概念，棉涤、粘胶、天丝、莫代尔、保暖吸湿排汗等功能性纤维和超弹、经纬双弹弹力等概念在牛仔面料中的层出不穷，使得牛仔面料这一休闲与时尚的融合体再次焕发出无限活力，深受各界消费群体的青睐。但需指出的是，以前的牛仔面料基本没有用到羊毛纤维。
羊毛纤维织成的面料其手感、光泽等都要好于棉纱类面料，但是羊毛纤维在可机洗、耐碱性等方面的不足给牛仔面料染整加工增加了很大难度。鉴于此，目前市场上尚缺乏含高比例(大于50％)羊毛的羊毛牛仔面料或服装。因此，研发羊毛牛仔面料的新型生产工艺，最大程度发挥羊毛纤维、牛仔面料各自的特性，赋予牛仔面料羊毛织物的一些特征，可显著提升产品档次及价值，赋予牛仔服装更为独特的优良品质，市场竞争力极具优势。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于发明一种生物防缩与改性靛蓝染色羊毛条制备的羊毛牛仔精纺呢绒，以克服传统靛蓝染料因染色条件不适无法用于羊毛染色而影响羊毛牛仔面料开发的问题。
为实现上述目的，本发明提供如下技术方案：一种生物防缩与改性靛蓝染色羊毛条制备的羊毛牛仔精纺呢绒，选用美丽奴羊毛条作为原料，依次经过酶法防缩、染色、复洗、二次染色、混条、梳毛、复精梳、粗纱、细纱、并捻筒、蒸纱、织造、湿整、干整制成羊毛比例大于50％的面料成品。
优选的，所述的一种生物防缩与改性靛蓝染色羊毛条制备的羊毛牛仔精纺呢绒，其特征在于，所述羊毛条采用一种超稳蛋白酶进行预缩处理，赋予其较好的防毡缩性能；采用超稳蛋白酶50-60℃处理30-60min，然后灭活，烘干。
优选的，所述的一种生物防缩与改性靛蓝染色羊毛条制备的羊毛牛仔精纺呢绒，其特征在于，所述羊毛条采用溴乙酸改性靛蓝进行染色，因染料具有水溶性而省去染料碱性预还原步骤，避免传统靛蓝碱性条件对羊毛的严重损伤。
优选的，所述的一种生物防缩与改性靛蓝染色羊毛条制备的羊毛牛仔精纺呢绒，其特征在于，所述羊毛纤维在条染后进行复洗，复洗后再次进行二次染色，提高羊毛纤维对染料的饱和吸附量，提高羊毛织物的染色深度。
优选的，所述的一种生物防缩与改性靛蓝染色羊毛条制备的羊毛牛仔精纺呢绒，其特征在于，所述混条工艺为防缩羊毛毛条与未染色梳棉条混并，混条后棉纤维占比10％。
优选的，所述的一种生物防缩与改性靛蓝染色羊毛条制备的羊毛牛仔精纺呢绒，其特征在于，所述复精梳纺纱工艺包括以下工序：混条→二次混条→针梳→精梳→针梳→头针→二针→三针→粗纱→细纱→络筒→并线→倍捻→蒸纱。
优选的，所述的一种生物防缩与改性靛蓝染色羊毛条制备的羊毛牛仔精纺呢绒，其特征在于，所述复精梳纺纱工艺中添加有毛油，且在细纱生产时采用赛络紧密纺生产。
优选的，所述的一种生物防缩与改性靛蓝染色羊毛条制备的羊毛牛仔精纺呢绒，其特征在于，所述织造工艺中上述羊毛纱作为经纱，棉纱作为纬纱，分别通过织机的引纬装置引入，交织成牛仔风格羊毛精纺织物。
与现有技术相比，本发明的有益效果是：采用上述方法生产的羊毛精纺面料不仅具有羊毛的保暖性好、手感柔软等自身特性，还具有牛仔风格、回弹好等性能。本发明解决了传统靛蓝染料因染色条件不适无法用于羊毛染色而影响羊毛牛仔面料开发的问题，可实现高含量羊毛牛仔风格面料的开发。
具体实施方式
以下将详细说明本发明实施例，然而，本发明实施例并不以此为限。基于本发明中的实施例，本领域普通技术人员在没有做出创造性劳动前提下所获得的所有其他实施例，都属于本发明保护的范围。
羊毛牛仔面料生产方法如下：
选用16.5微米美丽奴羊毛毛条作为原料，首先进行毛条防缩处理：超稳蛋白酶，60℃处理30min，然后灭活，烘干；毛条染色：采用溴乙酸改性靛蓝进行条染，染色工艺为：染料用量1％，染浴pH值5-6，染色温度80℃，染色45min。染色后水洗，再进行二次染色(染色时间为30min，其他同前)和复洗，提高上染率。羊毛毛条复洗水槽温度控制在40-45℃，80℃烘干，下机回潮控制在18％。
将染色毛条与未染色棉纱混并(棉纱比例10％)，再进行复精梳纺纱，主要工艺包括以下工序：混条、二次混条、针梳、精梳、头针、二针、三针、粗纱、细纱、络筒、并线、倍捻、蒸纱。其中混条时加入0.5％抱合力增强剂，精梳时加入含0.25％抗静电剂和毛油。蒸纱工艺为85℃下45min。粗纱、细纱、并捻筒均采用常规公知的生产工艺。织造工艺中上述羊毛纱作为经纱，棉纱作为纬纱，分别通过织机的引纬装置引入，交织成牛仔风格羊毛精纺织物。坯布后整理主要包括刷毛、平洗、烘干、烧毛、洗缩、烘干、熟修、刷毛剪毛。其中烧毛工艺中车速110m/min，燃气压力2.05Pa，正反各一背烧；洗缩工艺压辊压力0.5Pa，40℃处理，车速120m/min。生产的牛仔风格羊毛精纺面料参数为：捻度：经向901±10捻/10cm，纬向905捻/10cm；密度：328±5根/10cm；纱支支数86/2，平方米克重180克。面料性能如下：静态尺寸变化率-1.0％，起球等级4级，经向断裂强力521N，纬向断裂强力440N，汽蒸尺寸变化率经向-1.5％，纬向0.4％，干摩擦牢度4级，湿摩擦牢度3级，润湿时间5s。可以看出，该面料的静态尺寸变化率及汽蒸尺寸变化率达到合格要求且变化较为稳定，断裂强力较大，即面料抗断裂性能好。面料具有优异的尺寸稳定性、吸湿性和抗起毛起球性。
虽然本发明已以较佳实施例公开如上，但其并非用以限定本发明，任何熟悉此技术的人，在不脱离本发明的精神和范围内，都可做各种的改动与修饰，因此本发明的保护范围应该以权利要求书所界定的为准。
Claims (8)
1.一种生物防缩与改性靛蓝染色羊毛条制备的羊毛牛仔精纺呢绒，其特征在于，羊毛毛条先进行防缩处理，再依次经过染色、复洗、二次染色、混条、梳毛、复精梳纺纱、织造、湿整、干整制成成品。
2.如权利要求1所述的一种生物防缩与改性靛蓝染色羊毛条制备的羊毛牛仔精纺呢绒，其特征在于，所述羊毛条采用一种超稳蛋白酶进行预缩处理，赋予其较好的防毡缩性能；优选的处理条件为超稳蛋白酶50-60℃处理30-60min，然后灭活，烘干。
3.如权利要求1所述的一种生物防缩与改性靛蓝染色羊毛条制备的羊毛牛仔精纺呢绒，其特征在于，所述羊毛条采用溴乙酸改性靛蓝进行染色，因染料具有水溶性而省去染料碱性预还原步骤。
4.如权利要求1所述的一种生物防缩与改性靛蓝染色羊毛条制备的羊毛牛仔精纺呢绒，其特征在于，所述羊毛纤维在条染后进行复洗，复洗后再次进行二次染色，提高羊毛纤维对染料的饱和吸附量，提高羊毛织物的染色深度。
5.如权利要求1所述的一种生物防缩与改性靛蓝染色羊毛条制备的羊毛牛仔精纺呢绒，其特征在于，所述混条工艺为防缩羊毛毛条与未染色梳棉条混并，混条后棉纤维占比10％。
6.如权利要求1所述的一种生物防缩与改性靛蓝染色羊毛条制备的羊毛牛仔精纺呢绒，其特征在于，所述复精梳纺纱工艺包括以下工序：二次混条→针梳→精梳→针梳→头针→二针→三针→粗纱→细纱→络筒→并线→倍捻→蒸纱。
7.如权利要求1所述的一种生物防缩与改性靛蓝染色羊毛条制备的羊毛牛仔精纺呢绒，其特征在于，所述混条工艺中加入抱合力增强剂，复精梳纺纱工艺中添加和毛油，且在细纱生产时采用赛络紧密纺生产。
8.如权利要求1所述的一种生物防缩与改性靛蓝染色羊毛条制备的羊毛牛仔精纺呢绒，其特征在于，所述织造工艺中上述羊毛纱作为经纱，棉纱作为纬纱，分别通过织机的引纬装置引入，与经纱交织成牛仔风格羊毛精纺织物。
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