CN112402282A - Ceramide composition and cosmetic with repairing function - Google Patents

Ceramide composition and cosmetic with repairing function Download PDF

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Publication number
CN112402282A
CN112402282A CN202011189718.1A CN202011189718A CN112402282A CN 112402282 A CN112402282 A CN 112402282A CN 202011189718 A CN202011189718 A CN 202011189718A CN 112402282 A CN112402282 A CN 112402282A
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ceramide
grease
skin
cosmetic
composition
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CN112402282B (en
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何益飞
卢媛
刘俏苑
任皓晨
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Guangzhou Jiyan Cosmetics Technology Co Ltd
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Guangzhou Jiyan Cosmetics Technology Co Ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42Amides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/604Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y02TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02ATECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02A50/00TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE in human health protection, e.g. against extreme weather
    • Y02A50/30Against vector-borne diseases, e.g. mosquito-borne, fly-borne, tick-borne or waterborne diseases whose impact is exacerbated by climate change

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a ceramide composition with a repairing function and a cosmetic. The invention discloses a ceramide composition, which comprises: three or more of ceramide EOS, ceramide NS, ceramide NP, and ceramide AP. The invention unexpectedly discovers that compared with the single use of one ceramide or two ceramides, the combination of the three or more ceramides has a synergistic effect, and the components of the ceramide composition synergistically repair the multilayer lipid structure of ordered tissues among corneocytes, repair skin barriers and reduce the permeation of irritants, so that the defensive performance of skin to external stimulation is improved, the water content of the skin corneous layer is obviously improved, the water locking capacity of the skin is enhanced, and the problem of skin redness is solved.

Description

Ceramide composition and cosmetic with repairing function
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a ceramide composition with a repairing function and a cosmetic.
Background
The skin, which is the largest organ covering the surface of the human body, is directly in contact with the external environment and is easily damaged by ultraviolet rays, microorganisms, physical and chemical stimuli, and the like. The skin is composed of three parts, namely epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous tissue, and the outermost structure of the epidermis, namely the stratum corneum, plays an important role in the barrier of the skin. Researchers visually analogize the cuticle to a brick wall structure: the horny layer cells are bricks of walls and are formed by mutual crosslinking of filaggrin, cytokeratin and the like to form an insoluble compact structure; while intercellular lipids are likened to the wall's lime. Intercellular lipids contain mainly 50% ceramide, 30% cholesterol and 20% free fatty acids. Studies have shown one of the major causes of impaired skin barrier in the absence of ceramide.
At present, ceramide is applied to the field of daily chemicals and is widely concerned. However, the current cosmetics containing ceramide still have the problem of insignificant skin moisturizing and repairing effects.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the above, the present invention provides a ceramide composition and a cosmetic having a repairing function, which can repair skin barrier, improve skin moisture content and water-holding capacity, and eliminate the problem of skin redness.
The specific technical scheme is as follows:
the present invention provides a ceramide composition comprising: three or more of ceramide EOS, ceramide NS, ceramide NP, and ceramide AP.
The invention discovers that the components of the ceramide composition provided by the invention synergistically repair the multilayer lipid structure of ordered tissues among corneocytes, repair skin barriers and reduce the penetration of irritants, so that the defensive ability of skin to external stimulation is improved, the water content of skin stratum corneum is improved, the water locking capacity of skin is enhanced, and the problem of skin redness is solved.
In the present invention, the ceramide composition is preferably a composition of ceramide EOS, ceramide NS and ceramide AP, or a composition of ceramide NS, ceramide NP and ceramide AP, or a composition of ceramide EOS, ceramide NS, ceramide NP and ceramide AP, and more preferably a composition of ceramide EOS, ceramide NS, ceramide NP and ceramide AP.
In the invention, the mass ratio of ceramide EOS, ceramide NS, ceramide NP and ceramide AP is (0-2): (0-2): (0-2): (0-2). The dosage of the four ceramides is not zero at the same time.
When the ceramide composition is ceramide EOS, ceramide NS and ceramide AP, the mass ratio is (0-2): (0-2): (0-2), preferably (0.001-2): (0.001-2): (0.001-2), more preferably (0.01-2): (0.01-2): (0.01 to 2), most preferably 1: 1: 1;
when the ceramide composition is ceramide NS, ceramide NP and ceramide AP, the mass ratio is (0-2): (0-2): (0-2), preferably (0.001-2): (0.001-2): (0.001-2), more preferably (0.01-2): (0.01-2): (0.01 to 2), most preferably 1: 1: 1;
when the ceramide composition is ceramide EOS, ceramide NS, ceramide NP and ceramide AP, the mass ratio is (0-2): (0-2): (0-2): (0-2), preferably (0.001-2): (0.001-2): (0.001-2): (0.001-2), more preferably (0.01-2): (0.01-2): (0.01-2): (0.01 to 2), most preferably 1: 1: 1: 1.
in the present invention, the ceramide composition further comprises a vetiver extract. The vetiver extract can promote the synthesis of lipid in skin.
In the invention, the ceramide composition obtained by combining the vetiver extract with any three compositions of ceramide EOS, ceramide NS, ceramide NP and ceramide AP has a synergistic effect. After the vetiver extract is added, the ability of the ceramide composition to moisturize, lock water, repair skin barriers and eliminate skin redness is obviously enhanced.
In the invention, when the ceramide composition is ceramide EOS, ceramide NS, ceramide NP, ceramide AP and vetiver extract, the mass ratio is (0-2): (0-2): (0-2): (0-2): (0.001-2), preferably (0.001-2): (0.001-2): (0.001-2): (0.001-2): (0.001-2), more preferably (0.01-2): (0.01-2): (0.01-2): (0.01-2): (0.1 to 2), most preferably 1: 1: 1: 1: 10.
the invention also provides application of the ceramide composition in preparation of medicines or cosmetics with skin repair functions.
In the present invention, the skin repair function includes: repairing skin barrier function, eliminating skin redness and moisturizing.
The invention also provides a cosmetic which comprises the following components in percentage by mass:
0.003-8% of ceramide composition;
1.5 to 3.5 percent of emulsifier;
2-5% of first grease;
4-8% of second grease;
1-3% of third grease;
0.25 to 1 percent of thickening agent;
0 to 0.8 percent of neutralizer;
5-15% of a humectant;
0.2 to 1 percent of preservative;
the balance being water.
Preferably, 0.01-4% of ceramide composition;
1.5-3% of an emulsifier;
2-4% of first grease;
4-6% of second grease;
1-2% of third grease;
0.25-0.8% of a thickening agent;
0.25-0.8% of a neutralizer;
5-10% of a humectant;
0.2-0.8% of preservative;
the balance being water.
More preferably, 0.3-0.4% of ceramide composition;
2% of an emulsifier;
2% of first grease;
5% of second grease;
1.5% of third grease;
0.3% of thickening agent;
0.3 percent of neutralizer;
10% of a humectant;
0.9 percent of preservative;
the balance being water.
In the invention, the emulsifier comprises one or more than two of fatty acid ester, alkyl glycoside and glycerin monostearate;
the first grease comprises isononyl isononanoate and/or cetyl ethylhexanoate, preferably cetyl ethylhexanoate; the second grease comprises one or more than two of polydimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane and octyl-methicone, and the cyclopentadimethylsiloxane is preferably selected; the third oil comprises one or more of cetyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, preferably cetyl alcohol. The content of cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, cetylstearyl alcohol and cetylethylhexanoate in the cosmetic is preferably 2%, 1.5%, 5% by mass.
The neutralizing agent comprises one or more of TEA, AMP, arginine and NaOH, preferably TEA.
The thickening agent comprises one or more than two of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, hydroxyethyl cellulose, acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/behenyl polyether-25 methacrylate cross-linked polymer, acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer and poly acryloyl dimethyl sodium taurate, and the preferable acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer.
The humectant comprises one or more of glycerol, propylene glycol, butanediol, hexanediol or pentanediol, and preferably glycerol.
The preservative comprises one or more than two of PE9010, p-hydroxyacetophenone, pentanediol and hexanediol, and is preferably PE 9010.
In the invention, if the acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer is used as the thickening agent, a neutralizing agent is required to be added; if other types of thickeners are used, no neutralizing agent needs to be added.
The present invention also provides a first preparation method of the above cosmetic, comprising the steps of:
step 1: mixing water, thickener and humectant, and heating to 90-95 deg.C;
step 2: mixing the first grease, the second grease, the third grease and the emulsifier, then mixing the mixture with the ceramide composition, stirring the mixture evenly, adding the mixture into the mixture obtained in the step 1, and homogenizing the mixture for 3-10 min at 8000rpm of 4000-;
and step 3: and after homogenizing, adding a neutralizing agent, cooling to below 40 ℃, and adding a preservative to obtain the cosmetic.
The present invention also provides a second method for preparing the above cosmetic, comprising the steps of:
step 1): uniformly stirring the ceramide composition, the humectant, the emulsifier and the second oil ester at 90-95 ℃, adding water, continuously stirring uniformly, and performing 600-800bar homogenization circulation for 3-5 times to obtain a ceramide emulsion;
step 2): wetting the thickener with water, and heating to 90-95 deg.C;
step 3): mixing the first grease, the third grease and the rest second grease, heating to 90-95 ℃, uniformly stirring, mixing with the product obtained in the step (2), and homogenizing at 4000-;
and 4, step 4: and 3, after homogenizing, adding a neutralizing agent, cooling to below 40 ℃, and adding the ceramide emulsion and the preservative to obtain the cosmetic.
The second preparation method of the invention prepares the liposome-entrapped cosmetic.
The present invention also provides a second cosmetic comprising:
0.003-8% of ceramide composition;
0.001-2% of vetiver extract;
1.5 to 3.5 percent of emulsifier;
2-5% of first grease;
4-8% of second grease;
1-3% of third grease;
0.25 to 1 percent of thickening agent;
0 to 0.8 percent of neutralizer;
5-15% of a humectant;
0.2 to 1 percent of preservative;
the balance being water.
Preferably, 0.01-4% of ceramide composition;
0.1-2% of vetiver extract
1.5-3% of an emulsifier;
2-4% of first grease;
4-6% of second grease;
1-2% of third grease;
0.25-0.8% of a thickening agent;
0.25-0.8% of a neutralizer;
5-10% of a humectant;
0.2-0.8% of preservative;
the balance being water.
More preferably, 0.3-0.4% of ceramide composition;
1% of vetiver extract;
2% of an emulsifier;
2% of first grease;
5% of second grease;
1.5% of third grease;
0.3% of thickening agent;
0.3 percent of neutralizer;
10% of a humectant;
0.9 percent of preservative;
the balance being water.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the second cosmetic, which comprises the following steps:
step a: mixing water, thickener and humectant, and heating to 90-95 deg.C;
step b: mixing the grease, the emulsifier and the cyclopentadienylpolydimethylsiloxane, then mixing the mixture with the ceramide composition, and homogenizing the mixture for 3-10 min at 4000-;
step c: after homogenizing, adding neutralizer and herba vetiveriae extract, cooling to below 40 deg.C, and adding antiseptic to obtain cosmetic.
The two cosmetic formulations provided by the invention can be emulsion, cream, facial mask liquid, skin lotion or essence, and all the acceptable cosmetic formulations are within the protection scope of the invention.
According to the technical scheme, the invention has the following advantages:
the present invention provides a ceramide composition comprising: three or more of ceramide EOS, ceramide NS, ceramide NP, and ceramide AP. The invention unexpectedly discovers that compared with the single use of one ceramide or two ceramides, the combination of the three or more ceramides has a synergistic effect, and the components of the ceramide composition synergistically repair the multilayer lipid structure of ordered tissues among corneocytes, repair skin barriers and reduce the permeation of irritants, so that the defensive performance of skin to external stimulation is improved, the water content of the skin corneous layer is obviously improved, the water locking capacity of the skin is enhanced, and the problem of skin redness is solved.
Drawings
In order to more clearly illustrate the embodiments of the present invention or the technical solutions in the prior art, the drawings used in the description of the embodiments or the prior art will be briefly described below, and it is obvious that the drawings in the following description are only some embodiments of the present invention, and for those skilled in the art, other drawings can be obtained according to these drawings without inventive exercise.
FIG. 1 is a graph showing the rate of change of water content of the skin cutin layer provided in the experimental example of the present invention, wherein comparative examples 1 to 4 and examples 1 to 5 are shown in the histogram from left to right;
FIG. 2 is a chart of the rate of change of the skin transdermal water loss rate provided by the test example of the present invention, wherein comparative examples 1 to 4 and examples 1 to 5 are shown in the histogram from left to right;
fig. 3 is a graph of the rate of change of the skin color (red-green) value a ×, provided in the test example of the present invention, and comparative examples 1 to 4 and examples 1 to 5 are shown in the histogram from left to right.
Detailed Description
In order to make the objects, features and advantages of the present invention more obvious and understandable, the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below, and it should be apparent that the embodiments described below are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
Examples 1 to 3
This example is the preparation of a skin cream
The following raw materials were weighed according to the proportions in table 2, respectively, and 1L of skin cream was prepared according to the following preparation steps.
The phase A is a mixture of deionized water, acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer and glycerol;
phase B is a mixture of hydrogenated lecithin, cyclopenta dimethyl silicone polymer, cetyl ethyl hexanoate, and cetostearyl alcohol;
the C phase is ceramide composition (ceramide EOS, ceramide NS, ceramide NP and ceramide AP);
phase D is PE9010 preservative;
and the phase E is TEA.
The preparation method comprises the following specific steps:
(1) adding the phase A raw materials into a beaker in sequence, and starting to heat to 95 ℃ after the acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer is completely wetted.
(2) Adding the raw materials of the phase B and the phase C into another beaker, heating to 95 ℃, and adding the raw materials into the phase A after the materials are uniformly stirred. The A, B phase mixture was emulsified homogeneously at 5000rpm for 5 min.
(3) And after homogenization, adding the phase E, and beginning to cool the material body.
(4) After the temperature is lower than 40 ℃, the D phase raw material is added.
(5) Discharging after the inspection is qualified.
TABLE 1 COMPARATIVE EXAMPLES 1 TO 4 FORMULATIONS
Figure RE-GDA0002887626490000081
Figure RE-GDA0002887626490000091
TABLE 2 examples 1-5 formulations
Figure RE-GDA0002887626490000092
Figure RE-GDA0002887626490000101
Example 4
This example is the preparation of a skin cream
The following raw materials were weighed according to the proportions in table 2, respectively, and 1L of skin cream was prepared according to the following preparation steps.
Phase A is glycerol, ceramide NS, ceramide NP, ceramide AP, 0.5% hydrogenated lecithin, 2.5% cetyl ethyl hexanoate, and 5% deionized water;
phase B is a mixture of the remaining 1.5% hydrogenated lecithin, cyclopenta dimethyl silicone polymer, the remaining 2.5% cetyl ethylhexanoate, cetearyl alcohol;
phase C is PE9010 preservative;
phase D is TEA;
phase E is the remaining deionized water, acrylic/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer.
The preparation method comprises the following specific steps:
(1) uniformly stirring the glycerol, the ceramide NS, the ceramide NP, the ceramide AP, the hydrogenated lecithin and the cetyl ethyl hexanoate in the phase A at 90 ℃, adding the water in the phase A, uniformly stirring, and circulating the mixed solution for 3 times through a high-pressure homogenizer under the pressure of 800bar to obtain semitransparent ceramide nanoemulsion for later use.
(2) And (3) sequentially adding the phase E raw material into a beaker, and starting to heat to 95 ℃ after the acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer is completely wetted.
(3) Adding the raw material of phase B into another beaker, heating to 95 ℃, and adding the raw material of phase B into phase E after the material body is uniformly stirred. The E, B phase mixture was homogenized at 5000rpm for 5 min.
(4) And after homogenization, adding the phase D, and beginning to cool the material body.
(5) And (3) when the temperature is lower than 40 ℃, sequentially adding the C phase and the material body prepared in the step (1).
(6) Discharging after the inspection is qualified.
Example 5
This example is the preparation of a skin cream
The following raw materials were weighed according to the proportions in table 2, respectively, and 1L of skin cream was prepared according to the following preparation steps.
The phase A is a mixture of deionized water, acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer and glycerol;
phase B is a mixture of hydrogenated lecithin, cyclopenta dimethyl silicone polymer, cetyl ethyl hexanoate, and cetostearyl alcohol;
the phase C is ceramide EOS, ceramide NS, ceramide NP and ceramide AP;
phase D is PE9010 preservative;
phase E is TEA;
the F phase is vetiver extract.
The preparation method comprises the following specific steps:
(1) adding the phase A raw materials into a beaker in sequence, and starting to heat to 95 ℃ after the acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer is completely wetted.
(2) Adding the raw materials of the phase B and the phase C into another beaker, heating to 95 ℃, and adding the raw materials into the phase A after the materials are uniformly stirred. The A, B phase mixture was emulsified homogeneously at 5000rpm for 5 min.
(3) And after homogenization, adding the phase E, and beginning to cool the material body.
(4) After the temperature is lower than 40 ℃, the D phase and F phase raw materials are added.
(5) Discharging after the inspection is qualified.
Comparative example 1
This comparative example is the preparation of a skin cream
The following raw materials were weighed according to the proportions in table 1, respectively, and 1L of skin cream was prepared according to the following preparation steps.
The phase A is a mixture of deionized water, acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer and glycerol;
phase B is a mixture of hydrogenated lecithin, cyclopenta dimethyl silicone polymer, cetyl ethyl hexanoate, and cetostearyl alcohol;
phase C is a ceramide composition (ceramide EOS);
phase D is PE9010 preservative;
and the phase E is TEA.
The preparation method comprises the following specific steps:
(1) adding the phase A raw materials into a beaker in sequence, and starting to heat to 95 ℃ after the acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer is completely wetted.
(2) Adding the raw materials of the phase B and the phase C into another beaker, heating to 95 ℃, and adding the raw materials into the phase A after the materials are uniformly stirred. The A, B phase mixture was emulsified homogeneously at 5000rpm for 5 min.
(3) And after homogenization, adding the phase E, and beginning to cool the material body.
(4) After the temperature is lower than 40 ℃, the D phase raw material is added.
(5) Discharging after the inspection is qualified.
Comparative examples 2 to 4
Comparative examples 2 to 4 are for the preparation of skin cream, the raw materials were weighed according to the proportions in table 1, and the preparation procedure was the same as comparative example 1.
Test examples
In order to verify that the compositions of examples 1-5 and comparative examples 1-4 have the function of repairing the skin, the compositions of examples 1-5 and comparative examples 1-4 are respectively tested for the function of repairing the skin, and evaluation is carried out according to 3 indexes of the moisture content of the horny layer, the transdermal water loss rate of the skin and the elimination of facial redness.
The using population: 180 women with sensitive muscles of 18-39 years old, dry and rough skin and easily reddened faces were selected and randomly divided into 9 groups.
The using method comprises the following steps: after daily morning and evening cleansing (same cleansing product), the skin was tested 28 days later by applying the example or comparative cream to one face, applying no other skin care product, as a test group, and applying no cosmetic to the other face as a blank group, in left and right face application (0.4 g for half face).
(1) Skin stratum corneum moisture content was tested using the method of Table 3
TABLE 3 test indices
Test parameters Method of producing a composite material Test site
1 Water content of stratum corneum Corneometer (CM 825): measurement 3 averaging Two sides of face
And (3) data analysis:
the mean and standard deviation of each parameter at each time point (0 days, 14 days, 28 days) were calculated for each test group and blank group, and the difference between before use of the product (D0) and after use of the product (D14 and D28) and the difference between D0, D14 and D28 for each test group were calculated, respectively.
And (3) carrying out normal distribution Test on the difference value by using an SPSS software Shapiro-Wilk Test method, and if the progressive statistical significance (bilateral) value p of the normal Test is greater than 0.050, the series of data obeys normal distribution.
(1) Differential analysis
Front-to-back comparison in each test group:
performing difference analysis on the difference values, and analyzing the difference between the data by using a paired T test when the data obeys normal distribution; when the data do not follow a normal distribution, the difference between the data is analyzed using a rank sum test.
Test group versus blank group:
performing difference analysis on the difference, and analyzing the difference between the two groups of data by using a paired T test when the two groups of data are subjected to normal distribution simultaneously; when the two sets of data do not obey normal distributions at the same time, the difference between the two sets of data is analyzed using the rank-sum test.
(2) Criterion of evaluation
Front-to-back comparison in each test group:
if the significance level p of the statistical method is less than 0.050, the significance level indicates that the test group and the blank group have statistically significant difference before and after the product is used; if the significance level p of the statistical method is more than or equal to 0.050, the significance level indicates that the test group and the blank group have no statistically significant difference before and after the product is used.
Test group versus blank group:
if the significance level p of the statistical method is less than 0.050, the significance level indicates that the test group and the blank group are statistically significant different; if the significance level p of the statistical method is more than or equal to 0.050, the significance level indicates that the test group and the blank group have no statistically significant difference.
TABLE 4 measurement of water content of stratum corneum and statistical results of differential analysis
Figure RE-GDA0002887626490000141
Note: statistical significance of differences compared to baseline D0 for each group
TABLE 5 rate of change of water content of stratum corneum
Figure RE-GDA0002887626490000142
Figure RE-GDA0002887626490000151
As can be seen from tables 3 to 4 and fig. 1, compared with the blank group and the comparative example, the skin cream of the ceramide composition including any three or more of ceramide EOS, ceramide NS, ceramide NP, and ceramide AP, which is adopted in the embodiment of the present invention, can effectively increase the moisture of the stratum corneum of the skin, and has significance. After the vetiver extract is added, the water replenishing effect is most remarkable.
(2) Analysis of skin percutaneous Water loss Rate (TEWL) Using the method of Table 6
The Trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) is measured by a Tewameter and is an important parameter reflecting the barrier function of the skin. The lower the measured value, the better the skin barrier function and the repair ability of the test product.
TABLE 6 test indices
Test parameters Method of producing a composite material Test site
1 Skin percutaneous water loss rate value Tewameter (TM 300): measurement 3 averaging Two sides of face
And (3) data analysis:
the mean and standard deviation of each parameter at each time point were calculated for each test group and blank group, and the difference between before use of the product (D0) and after use of the product (D14 and D28) was calculated for each test group and blank group, respectively.
And (3) carrying out normal distribution Test on the difference value by using an SPSS software Shapiro-Wilk Test method, and if the progressive statistical significance (bilateral) value p of the normal Test is greater than 0.050, the series of data obeys normal distribution.
(1) Differential analysis
Front-to-back comparison in each test group:
performing difference analysis on the difference values, and analyzing the difference between the data by using a paired T test when the data obeys normal distribution; when the data do not follow a normal distribution, the difference between the data is analyzed using a rank sum test.
Test and blank comparison:
performing difference analysis on the difference, and analyzing the difference between the two groups of data by using a paired T test when the two groups of data are subjected to normal distribution simultaneously; when the two sets of data do not obey normal distributions at the same time, the difference between the two sets of data is analyzed using the rank-sum test.
(2) Criterion of evaluation
Front-to-back comparison in each test group:
if the significance level p of the statistical method is less than 0.050, the significance level indicates that the test group and the blank group have statistically significant difference before and after the product is used; if the significance level p of the statistical method is more than or equal to 0.050, the significance level indicates that the test group and the blank group have no statistically significant difference before and after the product is used.
Test and blank comparison:
if the significance level p of the statistical method is less than 0.050, the significance level indicates that the test group and the blank group are statistically significant different; if the significance level p of the statistical method is more than or equal to 0.050, the significance level indicates that the test group and the blank group have no statistically significant difference.
Test results
Table 7 skin transdermal loss rate measurements and statistical results of differential analysis
Figure RE-GDA0002887626490000161
Figure RE-GDA0002887626490000171
Note: statistical significance of differences compared to baseline D0 for each group
TABLE 8 rate of change of skin transepidermal water loss
The skin care product is applied for 14 days The skin care product is used for 28 days
Comparative example 1 -7.18% -11.05%
Comparative example 2 -6.81% -10.82%
Comparative example 3 -8.13% -12.27%
Comparative example 4 -6.23% -11.04%
Example 1 -9.01% -17.28%
Example 2 -11.03% -19.46%
Example 3 -10.94% -27.06%
Example 4 -15.00% -29.23%
Example 5 -19.99% -45.21%
As can be seen from tables 6 to 8 and fig. 2, compared with the blank group and the comparative example, the skin cream of the ceramide composition including any three or more of the ceramide EOS, the ceramide NS, the ceramide NP, and the ceramide AP, which is adopted in the embodiment of the present invention, significantly reduces the transdermal water loss rate of the skin, and after the vetiver extract is added, the skin cream has the most significant reduction on the transdermal water loss rate of the skin. Tables 6 to 8 and fig. 2 show that the skin cream can effectively repair skin, improve the barrier function of skin, and reduce the penetration of irritants, thereby improving the defensive ability of skin to external stimuli.
(3) The elimination of skin redness was tested using the method of Table 9
VISIA-CR was used for facial Image acquisition, and the facial images were analyzed by Image-Pro-Plus analysis software to calculate the skin color a value. a indicates the degree of red-green value of the skin color. Smaller values of a indicate less red skin color.
TABLE 9 test indices
Test parameters Method of producing a composite material Test site
1 Skin face image VISIA-CR Whole face
2 Skin color (red-green) value a VISIA-CR Picture, Image-Pro-Plus software analysis Two side cheek
Data analysis
The mean and standard deviation of each parameter at each time point were calculated for each test group and blank group, and the difference between before use of the product (D0) and after use of the product (D14 and D28) was calculated for each test group and blank group, respectively.
And (3) carrying out normal distribution Test on the difference value by using an SPSS software Shapiro-Wilk Test method, and if the progressive statistical significance (bilateral) value p of the normal Test is greater than 0.050, the series of data obeys normal distribution.
(1) Differential analysis
Front-to-back comparison in each test group:
performing difference analysis on the difference values, and analyzing the difference between the data by using a paired T test when the data obeys normal distribution; when the data do not follow a normal distribution, the difference between the data is analyzed using a rank sum test.
Test and blank comparison:
performing difference analysis on the difference, and analyzing the difference between the two groups of data by using a paired T test when the two groups of data are subjected to normal distribution simultaneously; when the two sets of data do not obey normal distributions at the same time, the difference between the two sets of data is analyzed using the rank-sum test.
(2) Criterion of evaluation
Front-to-back comparison in each test group:
if the significance level p of the statistical method is less than 0.050, the significance level indicates that the test group and the blank group have statistically significant difference before and after the product is used; if the significance level p of the statistical method is more than or equal to 0.050, the significance level indicates that the test group and the blank group have no statistically significant difference before and after the product is used.
Test and blank comparison:
if the significance level p of the statistical method is less than 0.050, the significance level indicates that the test group and the blank group are statistically significant different; if the significance level p of the statistical method is more than or equal to 0.050, the significance level indicates that the test group and the blank group have no statistically significant difference.
Test results
Table 10 skin colour (red-green) values a value measurements and statistical results of the differential analysis
Figure RE-GDA0002887626490000191
Note: statistical significance of differences compared to baseline D0 for each group
TABLE 11 skin color (Red-Green) value a. The Rate of change
Figure RE-GDA0002887626490000192
Figure RE-GDA0002887626490000201
As can be seen from tables 10 to 11 and fig. 3, compared with the blank group and the comparative example, the skin cream of the ceramide composition including any three or more of the ceramide EOS, the ceramide NS, the ceramide NP, and the ceramide AP, which is adopted in the embodiment of the present invention, can effectively eliminate the problem of skin redness, and the skin cream containing the vetiver extract has a more significant problem of skin redness elimination.
The above-mentioned embodiments are only used for illustrating the technical solutions of the present invention, and not for limiting the same; although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the foregoing embodiments, it will be understood by those of ordinary skill in the art that: the technical solutions described in the foregoing embodiments may still be modified, or some technical features may be equivalently replaced; and such modifications or substitutions do not depart from the spirit and scope of the corresponding technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention.

Claims (12)

1. A ceramide composition, comprising: three or more of ceramide EOS, ceramide NS, ceramide NP, and ceramide AP.
2. The ceramide composition according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of ceramide EOS, ceramide NS, ceramide NP and ceramide AP is (0-2): (0-2): (0-2): (0-2).
3. The ceramide composition of claim 1, further comprising: an extract of vetiver.
4. The ceramide composition according to claim 3, wherein the mass ratio of the ceramide EOS, the ceramide NS, the ceramide NP, the ceramide AP and the vetiver extract is (0-2): (0-2): (0-2): (0-2): (0.001-2).
5. Use of the ceramide composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4 for the preparation of a medicament or cosmetic product having a skin-repairing function.
6. Use according to claim 5, wherein the skin repair function comprises: repairing skin barrier function, eliminating skin redness and moisturizing.
7. A cosmetic is characterized by comprising, by mass:
0.003-8% of the ceramide composition of claim 1 or 2;
1.5 to 3.5 percent of emulsifier;
2-5% of first grease;
4-8% of second grease;
1-3% of third grease;
0.25 to 1 percent of thickening agent;
0 to 0.8 percent of neutralizer;
5-15% of a humectant;
0.2 to 1 percent of preservative;
the balance being water.
8. The cosmetic according to claim 7, wherein the emulsifier comprises one or more of fatty acid ester, alkyl glycoside and glyceryl monostearate;
the first grease comprises isononyl isononanoate and/or cetyl ethyl hexanoate;
the second grease comprises one or more than two of polydimethylsiloxane, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane and octyl-polymethylsiloxane;
the third oil comprises one or more of cetyl stearate alcohol, cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol;
the neutralizing agent comprises one or more of TEA, AMP, arginine and NaOH;
the thickening agent comprises one or more than two of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, hydroxyethyl cellulose, acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/behenyl polyether-25 methacrylate cross-linked polymer, acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer and polyacryl dimethyl sodium taurate:
the humectant comprises one or more of glycerol, propylene glycol, butanediol, hexanediol or pentanediol
The preservative comprises one or more than two of PE9010, p-hydroxyacetophenone, pentanediol and hexanediol.
9. The method for preparing a cosmetic according to claim 7, comprising the steps of:
step 1: mixing water, thickener and humectant glycerol, and heating to 90-95 deg.C;
step 2: mixing the first grease, the second grease, the third grease and an emulsifier, then mixing the mixture with the ceramide composition, and homogenizing the mixture for 3-10 min at 4000-;
and step 3: and after homogenizing, adding a neutralizing agent, cooling to below 40 ℃, and adding a preservative to obtain the cosmetic.
10. The method for preparing a cosmetic according to claim 7, comprising the steps of:
step 1): uniformly stirring the ceramide composition, the humectant, the emulsifier and the second oil ester at 90-90 ℃, adding water, continuously stirring uniformly, and performing 600-800bar homogenization circulation for 3-5 times to obtain a ceramide emulsion;
step 2): wetting the thickener with water, and heating to 90-95 deg.C;
step 3): mixing the first grease, the third grease and the rest second grease, heating to 90-95 ℃, uniformly stirring, mixing with the product obtained in the step (2), and homogenizing at 4000-;
step 4): and 3, after homogenizing, adding a neutralizing agent, cooling to below 40 ℃, and adding the ceramide emulsion and the preservative to obtain the cosmetic.
11. A cosmetic is characterized by comprising, by mass:
0.003-8% of the ceramide composition of claim 1 or 2;
0.001-2% of vetiver extract;
1.5 to 3.5 percent of emulsifier;
2-5% of first grease;
4-8% of second grease;
1-3% of third grease;
0.25 to 1 percent of thickening agent;
0 to 0.8 percent of neutralizer;
5-15% of a humectant;
0.2 to 1 percent of preservative;
the balance being water.
12. A method for preparing a cosmetic product according to claim 11, comprising the steps of:
step a: mixing water, thickener and humectant, and heating to 90-95 deg.C;
step b: mixing the first grease, the second grease, the third grease and an emulsifier, then mixing the mixture with the ceramide composition, and homogenizing the mixture for 3-10 min at 4000-;
step c: after homogenizing, adding neutralizer and herba vetiveriae extract, cooling to below 40 deg.C, and adding antiseptic to obtain cosmetic.
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