CN111321499B - Preparation method of silk scarf fabric based on superfine mulberry silk fibers/tussah silk fibers - Google Patents

Preparation method of silk scarf fabric based on superfine mulberry silk fibers/tussah silk fibers Download PDF

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CN111321499B
CN111321499B CN202010105416.5A CN202010105416A CN111321499B CN 111321499 B CN111321499 B CN 111321499B CN 202010105416 A CN202010105416 A CN 202010105416A CN 111321499 B CN111321499 B CN 111321499B
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silk
mulberry silk
mulberry
fibers
silk fibers
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CN111321499A (en
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孙青锋
付宏杰
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Shanghai Zhaowu Brand Management Co ltd
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Shanghai Zhaowu Brand Management Co ltd
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D23/00—Scarves; Head-scarves; Neckerchiefs
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/04—Materials specially adapted for outerwear characterised by special function or use
    • A41D31/14—Air permeable, i.e. capable of being penetrated by gases
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
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    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
    • D06L1/00—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods
    • D06L1/12—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods using aqueous solvents
    • D06L1/14—De-sizing
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    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/36—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/45—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 3 or 13 of the Periodic Table; Aluminates
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/80—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with boron or compounds thereof, e.g. borides
    • D06M11/82—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with boron or compounds thereof, e.g. borides with boron oxides; with boric, meta- or perboric acids or their salts, e.g. with borax
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    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/10—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
    • D06M13/224—Esters of carboxylic acids; Esters of carbonic acid
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    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/322—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing nitrogen
    • D06M13/35—Heterocyclic compounds
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    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/322—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing nitrogen
    • D06M13/402—Amides imides, sulfamic acids
    • D06M13/432—Urea, thiourea or derivatives thereof, e.g. biurets; Urea-inclusion compounds; Dicyanamides; Carbodiimides; Guanidines, e.g. dicyandiamides
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    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/507—Polyesters
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    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
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    • D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
    • D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
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    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
    • D06M2101/12—Keratin fibres or silk
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    • D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/40—Reduced friction resistance, lubricant properties; Sizing compositions
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/04—Silk
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    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
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  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Biochemistry (AREA)
  • Microbiology (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

The invention discloses a preparation method of silk scarf fabric based on superfine mulberry silk fibers/tussah silk fibers, which comprises the steps of soaking superfine raw mulberry silks in a sizing solution consisting of water-soluble polyester polyether slurry, Turkey red oil, 1-n-dodecyl aza-cyclohepta-2-one, nanoparticles, an adhesive SD28, curcumin and water, carrying out sizing treatment, and then drying to obtain sized superfine mulberry silks; winding and doubling the sized superfine mulberry silk, twisting to prepare warp-wise mulberry silk fibers and weft-wise mulberry silk fibers, and refining to obtain degummed warp-wise mulberry silk fibers and degummed weft-wise mulberry silk fibers; and then, the degummed warp-wise mulberry silk fiber, the degummed weft-wise mulberry silk fiber and the degummed warp-wise tussah silk fiber are mixed and woven to prepare the silk scarf fabric based on the superfine mulberry silk fiber/tussah silk fiber.

Description

Preparation method of silk scarf fabric based on superfine mulberry silk fibers/tussah silk fibers
The invention belongs to split application, which is called silk scarf fabric based on superfine mulberry silk fibers/tussah silk fibers, is invented and applied for patent application with application number of 2018115555025 and application date of 2018, 12 and 18 months, and is part of a product preparation method.
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of textiles, and particularly relates to a preparation method of a silk scarf fabric based on superfine mulberry silk fibers/tussah silk fibers.
Background
The tussah silk has the excellent characteristics of smoothness, comfort, strong moisture retention, warm in winter, cool in summer and the like, in addition, the tussah silk fabric is rich in various natural amino acids beneficial to the skin of a human body, the skin quality can be improved by frequently wearing close-fitting clothes made of the tussah silk fabric, skin allergy is not easily caused, but the tussah silk fabric is stiff and smooth in texture and not easy to dye, and the sight of people gradually fades away. The scarf is mostly long scarf surrounding the neck, the manufacturing method comprises weaving, manual knitting and the like, the materials mainly comprise silk and wool, and the silk scarf is smooth in touch and has the characteristics of soft texture, light weight, good elasticity, low shrinkage, silky smooth and soft handfeel and draping feeling.
The mulberry silk has the characteristics of slender shape, softness, moisture absorption, good luster and the like, and the traditional silk (four-dormancy silk or five-dormancy silk) has poor crease resistance, so that ultra-thin silk and products cannot be woven; the existing method for modifying silk fiber is to breed trimolter varieties of silkworms, such as eosin, SG, 305 and the like, and produce silk with the fineness of about 2.0 deniers; breeding a mutagenized trimolter variety silkworm, and inducing common tetramolter silk into trimolter silk by using a medicine to produce superfine silk; or inducing trimaran of tetramomnia with superfine agent (2, 4-dichloro-N-phenylimidazole) to produce superfine silk; or spraying anti-juvenile hormone on the surface of folium Mori uniformly to feed silkworm, and making common four-sleep silkworm sleep three times to produce superfine silk. However, the superfine mulberry silk has small titer and low fiber strength, so that the silk is frequently broken due to the problem of strong force in the doubling and twisting process, and the ends are frequently broken due to the factors of warp tension and reed friction in the weaving process on a loom, so that the superfine mulberry silk cannot be used for production.
Disclosure of Invention
The prior art has various scarves prepared from mulberry silk, but the scarves are prepared from heavy denier fibers, 13/15D fine filaments are not reported, 9/11D superfine mulberry silk fiber raw silk is not recorded for preparing the scarves, the problem that the fine denier filaments are broken during production causes the scarves not to be applied, the excellent performance of the fine denier filaments cannot be reflected, and refined fabric is the basic step for preparing the scarves and plays a role in determining the performance of the scarves. The invention solves the problem of easy yarn breakage in the production of fine denier yarns by sizing, and the superfine silk obtained by degumming is blended with a small amount of tussah silk, so that the smoothness and the heat retention of the scarf are improved.
In order to solve the problems, the invention discloses a silk scarf fabric based on superfine mulberry silk fibers/tussah silk fibers, and the preparation method comprises the following steps:
(1) soaking superfine silkworm silk in a sizing solution consisting of water-soluble polyester polyether slurry, Turkey red oil, 1-n-dodecyl azacycloheptan-2-ketone, nanoparticles, an adhesive SD28, curcumin and water, performing sizing treatment, and drying to obtain sized superfine mulberry silk; the nano particles are prepared from nano yttrium oxide, boric acid and urea;
(2) winding and doubling the sized superfine mulberry silk, and twisting to prepare warp-wise mulberry silk fibers and weft-wise mulberry silk fibers; sequentially carrying out desizing treatment, enzyme treatment and hot water treatment on the warp-wise mulberry silk fibers and the weft-wise mulberry silk fibers, and then drying to obtain degummed warp-wise mulberry silk fibers and degummed weft-wise mulberry silk fibers;
(3) and then, the degummed warp-direction mulberry silk fibers, the degummed weft-direction mulberry silk fibers and the degummed warp-direction tussah silk fibers are mixed and woven to prepare the silk scarf fabric based on the superfine mulberry silk fibers/tussah silk fibers.
A preparation method of silk scarf fabric based on superfine mulberry silk fibers/tussah silk fibers comprises the following steps:
(1) soaking superfine silkworm silk in a sizing solution consisting of water-soluble polyester polyether slurry, Turkey red oil, 1-n-dodecyl azacycloheptan-2-ketone, nanoparticles, an adhesive SD28, curcumin and water, performing sizing treatment, and drying to obtain sized superfine mulberry silk; the nano particles are prepared from nano yttrium oxide, boric acid and urea;
(2) winding and doubling the sized superfine mulberry silk, and twisting to prepare warp-wise mulberry silk fibers and weft-wise mulberry silk fibers; sequentially carrying out desizing treatment, enzyme treatment and hot water treatment on the warp-wise mulberry silk fibers and the weft-wise mulberry silk fibers, and then drying to obtain degummed warp-wise mulberry silk fibers and degummed weft-wise mulberry silk fibers;
(3) and then, the degummed warp-direction mulberry silk fibers, the degummed weft-direction mulberry silk fibers and the degummed warp-direction tussah silk fibers are mixed and woven to prepare the silk scarf fabric based on the superfine mulberry silk fibers/tussah silk fibers.
A preparation method of sizing superfine mulberry silk for superfine mulberry silk fiber silk scarf comprises the following steps of soaking superfine mulberry silk raw silk in a sizing solution consisting of water-soluble polyester polyether slurry, Turkey red oil, 1-n-dodecyl nitrogen heterocyclic cycloheptane-2-ketone, nanoparticles, an adhesive SD28, curcumin and water, performing sizing treatment, and then drying to obtain the sizing superfine mulberry silk for the superfine mulberry silk fiber silk scarf; the nano particles are prepared from nano yttrium oxide, boric acid and urea.
A preparation method of a raw silk sizing solution for a superfine mulberry silk fiber real silk scarf comprises the following steps of mixing water-soluble polyester polyether slurry, Turkey red oil, 1-n-dodecyl nitrogen heterocyclic cycloheptane-2-ketone, nano particles, an adhesive SD28, curcumin and water to form the raw silk sizing solution for the superfine mulberry silk fiber real silk scarf; the nano particles are prepared from nano yttrium oxide, boric acid and urea.
A preparation method of superfine mulberry silk fibers for silk scarf fabrics comprises the following steps:
(1) soaking superfine silkworm silk in a sizing solution consisting of water-soluble polyester polyether slurry, Turkey red oil, 1-n-dodecyl azacycloheptan-2-ketone, nanoparticles, an adhesive SD28, curcumin and water, performing sizing treatment, and drying to obtain sized superfine mulberry silk; the nano particles are prepared from nano yttrium oxide, boric acid and urea;
(2) winding and doubling the sized superfine mulberry silk, and twisting to prepare warp-wise mulberry silk fibers and weft-wise mulberry silk fibers; sequentially carrying out desizing treatment, enzyme treatment and hot water treatment on the warp-wise mulberry silk fibers and the weft-wise mulberry silk fibers, and then drying to obtain degummed warp-wise mulberry silk fibers and degummed weft-wise mulberry silk fibers;
the superfine mulberry silk fibers for the silk scarf fabric comprise degummed warp-wise mulberry silk fibers and degummed weft-wise mulberry silk fibers.
In the invention, the water-soluble polyester polyether slurry, the Turkey red oil, the 1-n-dodecyl nitrogen heterocyclic ring-2-ketone, the adhesive SD28 and the curcumin are all existing products, wherein the water-soluble polyester polyether slurry, the Turkey red oil, the 1-n-dodecyl nitrogen heterocyclic ring-2-ketone and the curcumin are commercially available products, such as the water-soluble polyester polyether slurry SH, and the adhesive SD28 is a public product. The invention adopts the disclosing substances to prepare a new sizing composition, carries out surface treatment on superfine silk fibers, can increase the strength of the superfine silk fibers, avoids breakage in the doubling twisting process and the weaving process, takes water-soluble polyester polyether slurry as a basic treatment component, can improve the dispersibility of Turkey red oil, can improve the leveling effect of organic matters on the surfaces of the superfine silk fibers by using 1-n-dodecyl nitrogen heterocyclic ring-2-ketone, can improve the bonding force of organic components by using an adhesive, and can further improve the combination effect of the sizing composition, particularly nano particles on the surfaces of the fibers by using curcumin. Different from the conventional organic matter slurry, the invention develops nano particles aiming at special superfine mulberry silk fibers, and the preparation method comprises the steps of dispersing urea in water, adding boric acid and ethanol, stirring, adding nano yttrium oxide, stirring for 2-2.5 hours, removing the solvent to obtain a solid, calcining the solid for 5 hours at 950-1000 ℃ under nitrogen, and crushing to obtain the nano particles. The nano particles are directly used for sizing without any surface treatment, on one hand, the surface treatment has no effect on sericin, on the other hand, the disadvantages of a coupling agent for surface treatment on a sizing agent composition and the disadvantages of subsequent desizing are avoided, and the application effect of the general untreated nano particles is poor. The invention can improve the tensile strength of the fiber by using the nano particles, and more importantly, the invention avoids the residue of sericin in the desizing process and improves the desizing effect.
In the invention, the mass ratio of the nano yttrium oxide to the boric acid to the urea is 50: 65: 100; in the sizing solution, the mass fraction of the water-soluble polyester polyether slurry is 10-20%, the mass fraction of Turkey red oil is 0.4-0.6%, the mass fraction of 1-n-dodecyl nitrogen heterocyclic ring heptane-2-ketone is 0.2-0.5%, the mass fraction of the adhesive SD28 is 3-5%, the mass fraction of nano particles is 3-3.3%, the mass fraction of curcumin is 2-2.2%, and the balance is water. The proportion can improve the infiltration effect of the superfine mulberry silk fiber, so that the sizing composition is uniformly dispersed on the surface of the fiber, and the embodiment has the advantages of improved tensile strength and good desizing effect.
In the invention, during sizing treatment, the bath ratio is 1: 5-1: 10, the temperature is 30-40 ℃, and the time is 25-30 min; and after the sizing is finished, centrifugally dewatering the superfine mulberry silk, and drying in hot air drying equipment to obtain the sized superfine mulberry silk.
In the invention, the specification of the superfine silkworm raw silk is 9/11D, the superfine silkworm raw silk is obtained by reeling a superfine silkworm monofilament with the fineness of 1.0-1.2 deniers, the raw silk is a product formed by mutually embracing a plurality of silkworm cocoon silks through reeling silk, and a fabric woven by the fine-fineness raw silk has the characteristics of strong crease resistance, rich luster, good dyeing effect and the like, but the prior art does not report that the mulberry silk with the fineness is used as scarf fabric, and the main reason is that the mechanical strength is too low on the background, so the invention solves the problems in the prior art through sizing treatment.
In the invention, the degummed warp tussah silk fiber is the degummed tussah silk fiber which is used as the scarf warp fiber and is only positioned in the warp direction of the silk scarf fabric based on the superfine mulberry silk fiber/tussah silk fiber, and during weaving, the degummed tussah silk fiber and the degummed warp mulberry silk fiber are used as the warp silk fiber together for weaving; can improve the heat retention of the pure mulberry silk fiber fabric.
In the invention, spooling, doubling twisting and weaving are the prior art, spooling treatment can be carried out on a loose type spooling machine, doubling twisting treatment is carried out on a doubling twisting machine, and weaving is carried out on a weaving machine; according to the invention, the preferred warp-wise mulberry silk fiber is 4/9/11D mulberry silk 14T/2S2Z, the weft-wise mulberry silk fiber is 2/9/11D mulberry silk 18T/2S2Z, and the adopted degummed tussah silk fiber is the prior art, such as the tussah silk fiber disclosed in CN 104032449A. The silk scarf fabric based on the superfine mulberry silk fibers/tussah silk fibers is a plain weave, the warp density is 48 pieces/10 cm, and the weft density is 51 pieces/10 cm. The product with the specification has good heat retention property and excellent wrinkle resistance, preferably, the warp density is 48 pieces/10 cm, the degummed tussah silk fiber is 10 pieces/10 cm, the good performance of the tussah silk can be utilized, the advantage of good elasticity of the mulberry silk can be kept, and the subsequent dyeing is facilitated.
In the invention, desizing treatment is carried out in a desizing solution, enzyme treatment is carried out in an enzyme solution, and hot water treatment is carried out in a hot water solution; in the desizing solution, the mass fraction of sodium carbonate is 1.5-2.0 percent, the rest is water, the bath ratio of the desizing treatment is 1:30, the temperature is 80-85 ℃, and the time is 30-60 min; in the enzyme solution, the mass fraction of the alkaline protease is 0.2-0.5%, the mass fraction of the sodium sulfate is 0.1-0.2%, the mass fraction of the sodium carbonate is 0.5%, the balance is water, the bath ratio of the enzyme treatment is 1:30, the temperature is 55-65 ℃, and the time is 60-90 min; in the hot water solution, the mass fraction of acetic acid is 0.2-0.3%, the rest is water, the bath ratio of hot water treatment is 1:30, the temperature is 90 ℃, and the time is 30 min. And after the treatment is finished, drying the mulberry silk on hot air equipment to obtain degummed warp-direction mulberry silk fibers and degummed weft-direction mulberry silk fibers which are white-finished superfine mulberry silk fibers. The method has the advantages that sericin is removed, so that excellent performances of silk fiber such as heat preservation, softness and wrinkle resistance are reflected, three steps of treatment are adopted, treatment solution and parameter conditions are given, sizing conditions can be matched, sericin is treated cleanly, and optimal performance is provided for silk fabric.
Compared with thick denier (the filament number is 2.6-3.0 denier) silk, the fine denier (the filament number is 1.0-1.2 denier) silk has better refractive performance, strong lustrousness and strong drapability, can improve the smoothness and elasticity of silk products, and has better color brightness of printing and dyeing products. However, the superfine mulberry silk has small fineness and low fiber strength. Therefore, the yarn is frequently broken due to the problem of strong force in the doubling and twisting process, and the yarn is frequently broken due to the factors of warp tension and reed friction in the weaving process on a machine, so that the yarn cannot be used for production. Therefore, the key technology for preparing the superfine silk scarf fabric is to improve the sizing process of the fine denier silk and improve the strength and cohesion of the superfine mulberry silk.
According to the scarf fabric, the strength of raw silk is improved through sizing treatment, the prepared scarf fabric has the functions of wear resistance and high strength, the service life of the scarf fabric is prolonged, sericin can be effectively removed through refining treatment, and the scarf fabric has good heat preservation performance; the invention adopts the mulberry silk with low strength as the raw material, and combines the preparation process, the prepared scarf fabric has the advantages of plump hair, good heat preservation and hygroscopicity, comprehensive look, light ventilation, comfort, luxury, attractive appearance, high grade, crease resistance, good strength and no harm to human skin due to the addition of a small amount of the conventional tussah silk fiber in the warp direction.
Compared with the prior art, the sizing process disclosed by the invention improves the strength of the fiber, obviously reduces the phenomenon that the superfine mulberry silk fiber is frequently broken in the doubling and twisting process, improves the cohesive force of the superfine mulberry silk fiber and increases the lubricity; in the refining and degumming process, the silk scarf fabric can be completely removed, the use performance of the mulberry silk fiber is not influenced, particularly, the sizing treatment also has an effect of improving the performance of degummed silk, the sericin is estimated to swell in the soaking process, so that the treating agent has a slight osmosis effect, and the processes of desizing and enzyme treatment hot water treatment are combined, so that the obtained silk scarf fabric based on the superfine mulberry silk fiber/tussah silk fiber has good air permeability and heat retention; the processing method has strong operability, is suitable for industrial production and has low processing cost.
Detailed Description
The following further describes the present invention with reference to the following examples:
the polyester-polyether slurry SH, Turkey red oil, 1-n-dodecyl azacycloheptan-2-ketone and curcumin are commercially available and published products, and the adhesive is a commercially available product, such as an adhesive SD28 and an adhesive HD.
Synthesis example
Dispersing 10Kg of urea in 30 liters of water, then adding 13Kg of boric acid and 50L of ethanol, stirring, then adding 20Kg of nano yttrium oxide, stirring for 2.5 hours, then carrying out rotary evaporation to remove the solvent to obtain a solid, then calcining the solid for 5 hours at 950 ℃ under nitrogen, and then crushing to obtain the nano particles with the kinetic particle size of 500-700 nanometers.
Example one
On a cone dyeing machine, 9/11D ultrafine mulberry silk fiber cone yarn (raw silk, obtained by reeling ultrafine mulberry silk monofilament with the fineness of 1.0-1.2 deniers and with the breaking strength of 0.9 CN/dtex) is soaked in sizing solution formed by mixing 50Kg of polyester polyether slurry SH (Shuanghong), 2Kg of Turkey red oil, 2Kg of 1-n-dodecyl nitrogen heterocyclic ring-2-ketone (Xinkang), 15Kg of adhesive SD28, 16Kg of nano particles, 10Kg of curcumin and 405Kg of water, the bath ratio is 1:8, the soaking temperature is 30 ℃, and the soaking time is 30 min. And (3) after the sizing is finished, dehydrating on a centrifugal dehydrator, and then drying in hot air drying equipment to obtain dried silk fiber cheese which is sized superfine mulberry silk (breaking strength is 2.1 CN/dtex).
Performing spooling treatment on the dried silk fiber cheese on a loose type spooling machine, and then performing doubling twisting treatment on a doubling twisting machine to prepare warp-wise mulberry silk fibers and weft-wise mulberry silk fibers; wherein the warp-wise mulberry silk fiber is 4/9/11D mulberry silk 14T/2S2Z, and the weft-wise mulberry silk fiber is 2/9/11D mulberry silk 18T/2S 2Z.
Soaking the warp-wise mulberry silk fibers and the weft-wise mulberry silk fibers in a desizing solution consisting of 45 Kg of sodium carbonate and 2955Kg of water in a real silk hanging tank at a bath ratio of 1:30, heating to 80 ℃, treating for 35min at the temperature, and draining after the treatment is finished; adding enzyme treatment solution composed of 6Kg of alkaline protease, 5Kg of sodium sulfate, 15Kg of sodium carbonate and 2974Kg of water at a bath ratio of 1:30, heating to 60 deg.C, treating at the temperature for 90min, and discharging liquid after the treatment is completed; adding 7Kg of acetic acid and 2993Kg of water at a bath ratio of 1:30, heating to 90 deg.C, and treating at this temperature for 30 min. And after the treatment is finished, sequentially washing with water at 80 ℃ and 60 ℃, washing with cold water for 3 times, and finally drying on hot air equipment to obtain the degummed warp-direction mulberry silk fiber and the degummed weft-direction mulberry silk fiber.
The silk scarf fabric based on the superfine mulberry silk fibers/tussah silk fibers is prepared by conventionally weaving on a weaving machine by taking the conventional degummed tussah silk fibers and the degummed warp mulberry silk fibers as warp fibers and the degummed weft mulberry silk fibers as weft fibers, and is a plain weave with warp density of 48 pieces/10 cm, wherein the degummed tussah silk fibers are 10 pieces/10 cm, and the weft density is 51 pieces/10 cm.
The sizing superfine mulberry silk not only improves the strength of the monofilaments on the surfaces of the monofilaments, but also increases the cohesive force between the monofilaments, the two are combined to effectively increase the strength of raw silks, the problem that the existing superfine raw silks are frequently broken due to the strong problem in the doubling and twisting process, the problem that the existing superfine raw silks cannot be used for production due to frequent breakage caused by the factors of warp tension and reed friction in the weaving and manufacturing process of the upper machine is solved, the whole production process is smooth and free of breakage, the broken silks are generated if the 9/11D superfine mulberry silk fiber cheese is directly used for doubling and twisting, and the problem of breakage is particularly generated in the weaving process. The elongation at break of the mulberry silk raw silk before and after sizing is 15.23 percent and 16.62 percent, and the elongation at break can be used as an indirect index for measuring the softness of silk fibers, which shows that the raw silk treated by the method has better deformation capability and better softness than that before treatment.
The weight per unit area of the prepared silk scarf fabric based on the superfine mulberry silk fibers/tussah silk fibers is 25.1 g/square meter, and the thickness of the prepared silk scarf fabric is 0.98 mm; the scarf fabric prepared after sizing is improved by 40% compared with the scarf fabric prepared without sizing by taking the folding recovery time as an auxiliary index for representing the anti-wrinkle ability; the air permeability of the scarf fabric is tested by a fabric air permeability measuring instrument, the average value of 3 times is 367mm/S, the heat preservation rate of the scarf fabric is tested by a flat plate type heat preservation instrument, the average value of 3 times is 22.3%, the fabric disclosed by the invention has good air permeability and heat preservation effect, if no tussah silk fiber is added, the crease resistance is improved by 43% compared with that of the scarf fabric which is not prepared by sizing, the air permeability is 379mm/S, the heat preservation rate is 22.0%, the fact that a small amount of tussah silk fiber is added can improve the heat preservation property, meanwhile, the elasticity of the fabric is basically maintained, and the subsequent dyeing research is gradually carried; the scarf fabric prepared without sizing has poor heat retention and air permeability which are respectively 19.8% and 322 mm/S. The boron nitride nanoparticles with the particle size of 400-500 nanometers are directly used for replacing the nanoparticles, the breaking strength of the obtained sizing superfine mulberry silk is 1.7CN/dtex, the breaking elongation is 16.03, and the prepared nanoparticles are irregular and can be easily combined with fibers when sericin is swelled.
Comparative example 1
On the basis of the first embodiment, the prepared sizing superfine mulberry silk has the breaking strength of 1.7CN/dtex and the elongation at break of 15.99 percent without adding nano particles. Performing spooling treatment on the dried silk fiber cheese on a loose type spooling machine, and then performing doubling twisting treatment on a doubling twisting machine to prepare warp-wise mulberry silk fibers and weft-wise mulberry silk fibers; wherein the warp-wise mulberry silk fiber is 4/9/11D mulberry silk 14T/2S2Z, and the weft-wise mulberry silk fiber is 2/9/11D mulberry silk 18T/2S 2Z. Degumming and refining by adopting the method of the first embodiment to obtain degummed warp-wise mulberry silk fibers and degummed weft-wise mulberry silk fibers, and conventionally weaving the superfine mulberry silk fiber/tussah silk fiber-based silk scarf fabric on a weaving machine according to the first embodiment, wherein the superfine mulberry silk fiber/tussah silk fiber-based silk scarf fabric is a plain weave, the warp density is 48 pieces/10 cm, the degummed tussah silk fiber is 10 pieces/10 cm, and the weft density is 51 pieces/10 cm; the yarn breakage in the whole production process is less than the yarn breakage caused by directly using 9/11D superfine mulberry silk fiber cheese in doubling and twisting.
The prepared scarf fabric is soft in hand feeling, the folding recovery time is used as an auxiliary index for representing the anti-wrinkle capacity, and the scarf fabric prepared after sizing is improved by 27% compared with the scarf fabric prepared without sizing; the prepared scarf fabric is poor in heat retention and air permeability, and the heat retention and the air permeability are respectively 21.5% and 337 mm/S.
Comparative example No. two
On the basis of the first embodiment, no curcumin is added, and the prepared sizing superfine mulberry silk has the breaking strength of 1.5CN/dtex and the elongation at break of 16.23 percent. Performing spooling treatment on the dried silk fiber cheese on a loose type spooling machine, and then performing doubling twisting treatment on a doubling twisting machine to prepare warp-wise mulberry silk fibers and weft-wise mulberry silk fibers; wherein the warp-wise mulberry silk fiber is 4/9/11D mulberry silk 14T/2S2Z, and the weft-wise mulberry silk fiber is 2/9/11D mulberry silk 18T/2S 2Z. Degumming and refining by adopting the method of the first embodiment to obtain degummed warp-wise mulberry silk fibers and degummed weft-wise mulberry silk fibers, and conventionally weaving the superfine mulberry silk fiber/tussah silk fiber-based silk scarf fabric on a weaving machine according to the first embodiment, wherein the superfine mulberry silk fiber/tussah silk fiber-based silk scarf fabric is a plain weave, the warp density is 48 pieces/10 cm, the degummed tussah silk fiber is 10 pieces/10 cm, and the weft density is 51 pieces/10 cm; the yarn breakage in the whole production process is less than the yarn breakage caused by directly using 9/11D superfine mulberry silk fiber cheese in doubling and twisting. Because continuous production is not available, the method is not favorable for industrialization, and other performance tests are not necessary.
Comparative example No. three
On a cone dyeing machine, 9/11D ultrafine mulberry silk fiber cone yarn (raw silk, obtained by reeling ultrafine mulberry silk monofilament with the fineness of 1.0-1.2 deniers and with the breaking strength of 0.9 CN/dtex) is soaked in sizing solution formed by mixing 50Kg of polyester polyether slurry SH (Shuanghong), 2Kg of Turkey red oil, 2Kg of 1-n-dodecyl nitrogen heterocyclic ring-2-ketone (Xinkang), 15Kg of adhesive SD28, 16Kg of nano particles, 10Kg of curcumin and 405Kg of water, the bath ratio is 1:8, the soaking temperature is 30 ℃, and the soaking time is 30 min. And (3) after sizing, dehydrating on a centrifugal dehydrator, and then drying in hot air drying equipment to obtain dried silk fiber cheese which is sized superfine mulberry silk. Performing spooling treatment on the dried silk fiber cheese on a loose type spooling machine, and then performing doubling twisting treatment on a doubling twisting machine to prepare warp-wise mulberry silk fibers and weft-wise mulberry silk fibers; wherein the warp-wise mulberry silk fiber is 4/9/11D mulberry silk 14T/2S2Z, and the weft-wise mulberry silk fiber is 2/9/11D mulberry silk 18T/2S 2Z.
The mulberry silk fiber chiffon fabric is prepared by weaving warp-wise mulberry silk fibers and weft-wise mulberry silk fibers on a weaving machine, the obtained mulberry silk fiber chiffon fabric is plain weave, the warp-wise density is 48 pieces/10 cm, and the weft-wise density is 51 pieces/10 cm. Soaking the warp-wise mulberry silk fibers and the weft-wise mulberry silk fibers in a desizing solution consisting of 45 Kg of sodium carbonate and 2955Kg of water in a real silk hanging tank at a bath ratio of 1:30, heating to 80 ℃, treating for 35min at the temperature, and draining after the treatment is finished; adding 7Kg of acetic acid and 2993Kg of water at a bath ratio of 1:30, heating to 90 deg.C, and treating at this temperature for 30 min. And after the treatment is finished, sequentially washing with water at 80 ℃ and 60 ℃, washing with cold water for 3 times, and finally drying on hot air equipment to obtain the degummed warp-direction mulberry silk fiber and the degummed weft-direction mulberry silk fiber.
According to the first embodiment, the silk scarf fabric based on the superfine mulberry silk fibers/tussah silk fibers is prepared by conventional weaving on a weaving machine, the silk scarf fabric is a plain weave, the warp density is 48 pieces/10 cm, the degummed tussah silk fibers are 10 pieces/10 cm, the weft density is 51 pieces/10 cm, the unit area weight is 26.2 g/square meter, and the thickness is 0.99 mm; the hand feeling is slightly soft; the air permeability of the scarf fabric is tested by the fabric air permeability measuring instrument, the average value of the air permeability measuring instrument is 328mm/S after 3 times, and the heat preservation rate of the scarf fabric is tested by the flat-plate type heat preservation instrument, and the average value of the air permeability measuring instrument is 22.2% after 3 times.
The scarf is one of winter warm-keeping ornaments, and the performances of keeping warm, comfort and the like of the fabric material are more and more valued by people. The fine denier of the fiber is the pursuit of human beings, the earliest used textile fiber is natural fiber-cotton, hemp, wool, silk, and the mulberry silk is one of the fibers with the best wearing performance, and has unique advantages in the aspects of wearing comfort, aesthetic appearance and the like. Unfortunately, the superfine mulberry silk has poor mechanical properties, cannot be used for preparing scarf fabrics, and is easy to break, the invention realizes the improvement of the breaking strength of raw silk by combining sizing compositions and processes from the aspect of solving the problem of yarn breakage in the processes of doubling, twisting and weaving, and has no yarn breakage phenomenon in the production process, a small amount of tussah silk is added for blending, and meanwhile, the crease resistance, the air permeability and the heat retention capacity of the finished fabric are improved, and the elasticity is kept.

Claims (8)

1. A preparation method of silk scarf fabric based on superfine mulberry silk fibers/tussah silk fibers is characterized by comprising the following steps:
(1) soaking superfine silkworm silk in a sizing solution consisting of water-soluble polyester polyether slurry, Turkey red oil, 1-n-dodecyl azacycloheptan-2-ketone, nanoparticles, an adhesive SD28, curcumin and water, performing sizing treatment, and drying to obtain sized superfine mulberry silk;
(2) winding and doubling the sized superfine mulberry silk, and twisting to prepare warp-wise mulberry silk fibers and weft-wise mulberry silk fibers; sequentially carrying out desizing treatment, enzyme treatment and hot water treatment on the warp-wise mulberry silk fibers and the weft-wise mulberry silk fibers, and then drying to obtain degummed warp-wise mulberry silk fibers and degummed weft-wise mulberry silk fibers;
(3) then, mixing and weaving degummed warp-direction mulberry silk fibers, degummed weft-direction mulberry silk fibers and degummed warp-direction tussah silk fibers to prepare the silk scarf fabric based on the superfine mulberry silk fibers/tussah silk fibers;
the preparation method of the nano particles comprises the steps of dispersing urea in water, adding boric acid and ethanol, stirring, adding nano yttrium oxide, stirring for 2-2.5 hours, removing a solvent to obtain a solid, calcining the solid for 5 hours at 950-1000 ℃ under nitrogen, and crushing to obtain the nano particles.
2. The method for preparing silk scarf materials based on ultrafine mulberry silk fibers/tussah silk fibers according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of nano yttrium oxide, boric acid and urea is 50: 65: 100.
3. The method for preparing a silk scarf fabric based on superfine mulberry silk fibers/tussah silk fibers according to claim 1, wherein in the sizing solution, the mass fraction of the water-soluble polyester polyether slurry is 10% -20%, the mass fraction of the turkey red oil is 0.4% -0.6%, the mass fraction of 1-n-dodecyl azacycloheptan-2-one is 0.2% -0.5%, the mass fraction of the adhesive SD28 is 3% -5%, the mass fraction of the nanoparticles is 3-3.3%, the mass fraction of curcumin is 2-2.2%, and the balance is water.
4. The preparation method of the silk scarf fabric based on the superfine mulberry silk fibers/tussah silk fibers is characterized in that the sizing treatment is carried out at a bath ratio of 1: 5-1: 10 and at a temperature of 30-40 ℃ for 25-30 min; and after the sizing is finished, centrifugally dewatering the superfine mulberry silk, and drying in hot air drying equipment to obtain the sized superfine mulberry silk.
5. The method for preparing the silk scarf fabric based on the ultrafine mulberry silk fibers/tussah silk fibers is characterized in that the specification of the raw silk of the ultrafine mulberry silkworms is 9/11D, and the raw silk is obtained by reeling ultrafine mulberry silk monofilaments with the fineness of 1.0-1.2 deniers; the warp mulberry silk fiber is 4/9/11D mulberry silk 14T/2S2Z, and the weft mulberry silk fiber is 2/9/11D mulberry silk 18T/2S 2Z; the silk scarf fabric based on the superfine mulberry silk fibers/tussah silk fibers is in a plain weave; the warp density is 48 pieces/10 cm, wherein the degummed tussah silk fiber is 10 pieces/10 cm; the weft density was 51 pieces/10 cm.
6. The method for preparing silk scarf materials based on ultrafine mulberry silk fibers/tussah silk fibers according to claim 1, characterized in that desizing treatment is carried out in a desizing solution, wherein the mass fraction of sodium carbonate in the desizing solution is 1.5% -2.0%, and the balance of sodium carbonate is water, the bath ratio of the desizing treatment is 1:30, the temperature is 80-85 ℃, and the time is 30-60 min.
7. The method for preparing a silk scarf fabric based on superfine mulberry silk fibers/tussah silk fibers according to claim 1, characterized in that the enzyme treatment is carried out in an enzyme solution, wherein the mass fraction of alkaline protease in the enzyme solution is 0.2% -0.5%, the mass fraction of sodium sulfate is 0.1% -0.2%, the mass fraction of sodium carbonate is 0.5%, and the balance is water, the bath ratio of the enzyme treatment is 1:30, the temperature is 55-65 ℃, and the time is 60-90 min.
8. The method for preparing silk scarf materials based on ultrafine mulberry silk fibers/tussah silk fibers according to claim 1, characterized in that the hot water treatment is carried out in a hot water solution, the mass fraction of acetic acid in the hot water solution is 0.2% -0.3%, the rest is water, the bath ratio of the hot water treatment is 1:30, the temperature is 90 ℃, and the time is 30 min.
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