JPH10121348A - Alternately arranged woven fabric - Google Patents
Alternately arranged woven fabricInfo
- Publication number
- JPH10121348A JPH10121348A JP8282937A JP28293796A JPH10121348A JP H10121348 A JPH10121348 A JP H10121348A JP 8282937 A JP8282937 A JP 8282937A JP 28293796 A JP28293796 A JP 28293796A JP H10121348 A JPH10121348 A JP H10121348A
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- yarns
- yarn
- multifilament yarn
- woven fabric
- polyester
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
Landscapes
- Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
- Spinning Methods And Devices For Manufacturing Artificial Fibers (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
【０００１】[0001]
【発明の属する技術分野】本発明は新規な交互配列織物
に関する。FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a novel alternating fabric.
【０００２】[0002]
【従来の技術】特開昭６３ー１３５５３９号公報や特開
昭６３ー１６５５５４号公報に開示されているような積
層型マルチフィラメント糸は、アルカリ減量に代表され
る溶解処理によって、各単糸の横断面形状が非円形で互
いに実質的に不同である糸条となり、練絹調の優雅な外
観、風合いを有するものとなることが知られているが、
溶解処理によりシワが発生しやすい欠点があり、例え
ば、溶解処理時にシワが発生しないように拡布処理する
と練絹調の優雅な外観、風合いが損なわれる傾向にあ
り、練絹調の優雅な外観、風合いとシワ発生防止を満足
するものは得られていない。2. Description of the Related Art Laminated multifilament yarns disclosed in JP-A-63-135538 and JP-A-63-165554 are manufactured by dissolving each single yarn by a dissolution treatment represented by alkali weight reduction. It is known that the cross-sectional shape becomes a non-circular yarn that is substantially unequal to each other and has a silky-like elegant appearance and texture.
There is a disadvantage that wrinkles are likely to occur due to the dissolving treatment, for example, when the spreading treatment is performed so as not to generate wrinkles during the dissolving treatment, there is a tendency for the silky silky elegant appearance, the texture to be impaired, the silky silky elegant appearance, Nothing satisfying the texture and the prevention of wrinkles has been obtained.
【０００３】[0003]
【発明が解決しようとする課題】本発明は、練絹調の優
雅な外観、風合いとシワになりにくい織物を提供するこ
とを目的とするものである。SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to provide a woven fabric having an elegant appearance and a texture and wrinkle that does not easily wrinkle.
【０００４】[0004]
【課題を解決するための手段】本発明者は、前記課題を
解決するため、シワ発生の原因と、練絹調の優雅な外
観、風合いが損なわれる原因について検討した結果、積
層型マルチフィラメント糸と他の糸条を交互に配列する
ことにより上記課題が解決されることを見出し、本発明
を完成するに至った。即ち、本発明は、経糸に、各単糸
の横断面形状が非円形で互いに実質的に不同であるポリ
エステル糸条と他の糸条が交互に配列された交互配列編
織物を提供する。In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventor studied the causes of wrinkles and the cause of a loss of silky-like elegant appearance and texture, and as a result, found that a multi-filament multi-filament yarn. It has been found that the above-mentioned problems can be solved by alternately arranging the other yarns and the other yarns, and the present invention has been completed. That is, the present invention provides an alternately-arranged knitted fabric in which polyester yarns and other yarns in which the cross-sectional shape of each single yarn is non-circular and substantially non-uniform are alternately arranged on the warp.
【０００５】以下、本発明を詳細に説明する。本発明の
各単糸の横断面形状が非円形で互いに実質的に不同であ
るポリエステル糸条は、特開昭６３ー１３５５３９号公
報や特開昭６３ー１６５５５４号公報に開示されている
ような積層型マルチフィラメント糸をアルカリ減量に代
表される溶解処理することにより得られるものである。Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. The polyester yarns of the present invention in which the cross-sectional shapes of the single yarns are non-circular and are substantially unequal to each other are disclosed in JP-A-63-135538 and JP-A-63-165554. It is obtained by subjecting a laminated multifilament yarn to a dissolution treatment represented by an alkali weight loss.
【０００６】積層型マルチフィラメント糸とは、相互親
和性を有し、かつ溶解性が違う２種の繊維形成重合体を
夫々個別に溶融し、次いでこれら重合体を数個のエレメ
ントを有する静止系混練素子を通して複合状態として紡
糸してなるものを意味する。好適には、本出願人が先に
提案した特願平７−２０６９０５号のように、アルカリ
溶解性を異にする二種のポリエステルからなる多層繊維
において、構成フィラメントの断面構造が、二種のポリ
エステルが５層以上積層し、かつ該積層の少なくとも一
部が一つの開口部を有する湾曲構造をとっており、その
中心点がフィラメントの中心から偏心しているポリエス
テル多層繊維が望ましい。この場合、二種のポリエステ
ルの組合せ割合は重量比で９０：１０〜６０：４０％、
好ましくは９０：１０〜７０：３０％である。[0006] Laminated multifilament yarns are two types of fiber-forming polymers which have mutual affinity and differ in solubility, each of which is individually melted, and then these polymers are converted into a stationary system having several elements. It means what is spun in a composite state through a kneading element. Preferably, as described in Japanese Patent Application No. 7-206905 previously proposed by the present applicant, in a multilayer fiber composed of two kinds of polyesters having different alkali solubilities, the cross-sectional structure of constituent filaments is two kinds. A polyester multilayer fiber in which five or more polyester layers are laminated, at least a part of the laminate has a curved structure having one opening, and the center point thereof is eccentric from the center of the filament. In this case, the combination ratio of the two polyesters is 90:10 to 60: 40% by weight,
Preferably it is 90:10 to 70: 30%.
【０００７】本発明においては、かかる多層繊維を製編
織し、アルカリ処理することにり、異なった断面形状、
太さを有するフィラメントから布帛が構成されており、
フィラメントの平均デニールが０．３〜０．８ｄ、太さ
０．２ｄ以下のフィラメント数の含有率が１０〜４０％
の布帛が得られ、かかる布帛は特に優れた練絹調の優雅
な外観、風合いを有するものとなる。In the present invention, such a multi-layer fiber is knitted and woven and treated with an alkali to obtain a different cross-sectional shape.
The fabric is composed of filaments having a thickness,
The average denier of the filament is 0.3 to 0.8 d, and the content of the number of filaments having a thickness of 0.2 d or less is 10 to 40%.
Is obtained, and such a fabric has an elegant appearance and texture particularly excellent in a silk-like tone.
【０００８】具体的な製造の一例としては、固有粘度
０．６５（オルソクロロフェノ−ル中１重量％で測定）
のポリエチレンテレフタレ−トを用い、アルカリ易溶解
性ポリエステルとして、分子量が６０００のポリエチレ
ングリコ−ルを２５重量％共重合した固有粘度０．９０
のブロックポリエ−テルエステルを使用し〔これらのポ
リエステルを単独で用いて得られた繊維は、溶解速度比
（９０℃の水酸化ナトリウム２重量％の水溶液における
溶解速度の比）が３００倍である〕、各々のポリエステ
ルを２軸の複合紡糸機を用いて計量ポンプで計量し、紡
口内に静止混練素子を８エレメント配置し、両者を重量
比９０／１０で混合紡糸して巻取った後、熱延伸するこ
とにより得られる。As an example of a specific production, an intrinsic viscosity of 0.65 (measured at 1% by weight in orthochlorophenol)
Of 25% by weight of polyethylene glycol having a molecular weight of 6000 as an easily soluble polyester having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.90.
[The fibers obtained by using these polyesters alone have a dissolution rate ratio (ratio of the dissolution rate in a 2% by weight aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide at 90 ° C.) of 300 times]. ], Each polyester is measured with a metering pump using a biaxial composite spinning machine, eight static kneading elements are arranged in the spinneret, and both are mixed and spun at a weight ratio of 90/10 and wound up. It is obtained by hot stretching.
【０００９】ここで、溶解性が違うとは、有機、無機の
溶剤による溶解性に差があること、あるいは加水分解剤
として作用する苛性ソ−ダ−の如き薬剤に対する抵抗性
に差があることを言う。また、本発明でいうポリエステ
ルとは、ポリエチレンテレフタレ−ト、ポリブチレンテ
レフタレ−ト、ポリエチレンオキシベンゾエ−ト、ポリ
ジメチルシクロヘキサンテレフタレ−ト、ポリピバロラ
クトンなどのホモポリエステルに限定されず、これらの
ポリエステル成分に第三成分としてイソフタル酸、スル
ホイソフタル酸が共重合され、第二アルコ−ル成分とし
てポリプロピレングリコ−ル、ポリメチレングリコ−ル
を共重合されたものも包含される。Here, the difference in solubility means that there is a difference in solubility between organic and inorganic solvents or a difference in resistance to a chemical such as caustic soda which acts as a hydrolyzing agent. Say The polyester in the present invention is not limited to homopolyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polyethylene oxybenzoate, polydimethylcyclohexane terephthalate, and polypivalolactone. These polyester components also include those obtained by copolymerizing isophthalic acid and sulfoisophthalic acid as the third component and copolymerizing polypropylene glycol and polymethylene glycol as the second alcohol component.
【００１０】溶解性が違う２種の繊維形成重合体として
は、異なる繊維形成性重合体の組み合わせ以外に、同系
統の重合体で、且つ溶融温度の比較的近い２種の重合体
の組み合わせにおいて重合体の重合度を変えたり、共重
合の有無又は比率を変えたり、易染色性や難染色性とす
るための末端基数の変成をしたりする手法が適宜に選択
される。As the two kinds of fiber-forming polymers having different solubilities, in addition to the combination of different fiber-forming polymers, a combination of two kinds of polymers of the same family and having relatively close melting temperatures. A method of changing the degree of polymerization of the polymer, changing the presence or absence of the copolymer, or changing the ratio, or modifying the number of terminal groups to make the dyeing easy or difficult to dye is appropriately selected.
【００１１】積層型マルチフィラメント糸の紡糸方法
は、一旦未延伸糸を得た後、次に延撚機で延伸して得る
方法でも、４０００ｍ／分以上の巻取り速度で紡糸する
スピンテイクアップ法やスピンドローテイクアップ法で
もよい。本発明において、かかる積層型マルチフィラメ
ント糸を経糸に用いるに際し、他の糸条と交互に配列せ
しめることを特徴とするものである。[0011] The spinning method of the laminated multifilament yarn is a spin take-up method in which an undrawn yarn is obtained once and then drawn by a draw-twisting machine at a winding speed of 4000 m / min or more. Or a spin draw take-up method. In the present invention, when such a laminated multifilament yarn is used as a warp, it is characterized by being alternately arranged with other yarns.
【００１２】本発明において、積層型マルチフィラメン
ト糸と配列する他の素材としては、通常のレギュラーポ
リエステルマルチフィラメント糸の原糸、仮撚糸等の嵩
高加工糸、４０００ｍ／分以上の巻取速度で紡糸するス
ピンテイクアップ糸やスピンドローテイクアップ糸、シ
ックアンドシン糸、異収縮混繊糸、自発伸長糸との混繊
糸、位相差仮撚加工糸や伸度差のある二種以上の糸の複
合構造仮撚加工糸などの鞘芯構造等の複合構造糸が挙げ
られる。In the present invention, the other material to be arranged with the laminated multifilament yarn is a raw yarn of ordinary regular polyester multifilament yarn, a bulky processed yarn such as a false twisted yarn, and a spinning speed of 4000 m / min or more. Spin take-up yarns, spin draw take-up yarns, thick and thin yarns, mixed shrinkage mixed yarns, mixed yarns with spontaneously elongated yarns, phase difference false twisted yarns, and two or more yarns with elongation differences Composite structure yarns such as a sheath-core structure such as a composite structure false twisted yarn are exemplified.
【００１３】配列する他の素材は希望応じて１種以上で
もよく、数種の場合もあり、夫々に甘撚、強撚加工した
糸条となして、自由にその組合せを選択すばよい。更
に、配列する素材のデニールは、積層型マルチフィラメ
ント糸の０．６〜２．０倍、好ましくは１．０〜１．５
倍の範囲の糸を使用するのが良い。かかる糸を経糸に配
列する方法としては、従来公知の方法を適宜採用すばよ
く、例えば経糸が撚糸されている場合には部分整経機で
クリ−ル配列し、巻返す方法が適し、また、経糸がサイ
ジング糊付けの場合にはクリ−ルで配列し巻き返す方法
及びクリ−ル毎にビ−ムを作り、ビ−ム配列する方法な
どがあり、更に、総経糸本数が１００００本以上の場合
にはクリ−ル毎のビ−ム配列で実施するのが最良であ
る。[0013] The other materials to be arranged may be one or more as desired, and may be several kinds, and the combination may be freely selected as the yarns which have been subjected to sweet twist and strong twist, respectively. Further, the denier of the material to be arranged is 0.6 to 2.0 times, preferably 1.0 to 1.5 times, that of the laminated multifilament yarn.
It is better to use double the amount of yarn. As a method for arranging such yarns into warps, a conventionally known method may be appropriately employed.For example, when warp yarns are twisted, a method of arranging the yarns with a partial warper and rewinding them is suitable. When the warp is sizing and gluing, there are a method of arranging and rewinding with a reel and a method of forming a beam for each reel and arranging the beam. Further, when the total number of warp is 10,000 or more, It is best to use a beam arrangement for each reel.
【００１４】配列の本数は１本〜３２本毎、好ましくは
２本〜１６本毎がよいが特に限定するものでなく商品性
から選択すればよい。緯糸については、経糸同様交互に
配列するのが好ましいが、積層型マルチフィラメント糸
１００％でも、他の糸条（一種でも二種以上でもよい）
１００％で構成してもよい。The number of arrangements is preferably from 1 to 32, preferably from 2 to 16, but is not particularly limited and may be selected from the viewpoint of merchantability. As for the weft, it is preferable to arrange them alternately as in the case of the warp. However, 100% of the laminated multifilament yarn or another yarn (one kind or two or more kinds) may be used.
It may be constituted by 100%.
【００１５】織物の組織については、平、綾、朱子及び
これら変化組織があるが特に朱子組織が好ましい。生機
密度は、経糸は１３０〜２００が好ましく、さらに好ま
しくは１５０〜１８０本／インチであり、緯糸は７０〜
１１０が好ましく、さらに好ましくは７０〜１００本／
インチである。仕上げ密度は、経糸は１５０〜２２０が
好ましく、さらに好ましくは１７０〜２００本／インチ
であり、緯糸は８０〜１３０が好ましく、さらに好まし
くは８０〜１２０本／インチである。The structure of the woven fabric includes plain, twill, satin and their altered structures, but the satin structure is particularly preferred. The density of the greige is preferably 130 to 200 for the warp, more preferably 150 to 180 yarns / inch, and the weft is 70 to 200.
110 is preferred, and more preferably 70-100 pieces /
Inches. The finishing density is preferably from 150 to 220 for the warp, more preferably from 170 to 200 yarns / inch, and preferably from 80 to 130, more preferably from 80 to 120 yarns / inch.
【００１６】仕上げ工程としては、出来た生機を一般的
な加工工程である精練リラックス−減量（減量率は１０
〜２５％程度）−染色−乾燥−仕上げセットすればよ
く、希望に応じて減量前又は減量後にエメリーや針布に
より起毛すればスエード調の外観、風合いが加味されの
で好ましい。仕上げ工程の具体例としては、製織された
生機を液流染色機を使い、９０℃以上のボイルで精練リ
ラックスを行い、同機を用いて１０重量％程度のアルカ
リ水溶液の９０℃以上のボイルで減量し、水洗した後、
同機により１３０℃の高圧で染色を行い、その後乾燥セ
ットし仕上げる。In the finishing step, the resulting greige fabric is subjected to scouring relaxation-weight loss (a weight loss rate of 10
-Dyeing-Drying-Finish setting may be performed, and if desired, raising the hair with an emery or needle cloth before or after reducing the weight is preferable because a suede-like appearance and texture are added. As a specific example of the finishing process, the woven fabric is subjected to scouring relaxation using a jet dyeing machine with a boil at 90 ° C. or higher, and reduced with a boil at 90 ° C. or higher of an alkaline aqueous solution of about 10% by weight using the same machine. And after washing with water,
Dyeing is performed at a high pressure of 130 ° C. by the same machine, followed by drying and setting.
【００１７】[0017]
【発明の実施の形態】以下に実施例により、本発明を具
体的に説明するが、これらは本発明の範囲を制限しな
い。なお、本発明で用いた評価方法は以下の通りであ
る。 （１）練絹調の優雅な外観、風合いの官能評価： ◎−非常に良い、○−良い、△−ふつう、×−悪い、×
×−非常に悪い （２）シワ評価： Ａはシワなし、Ｂは若干シワ存在する、Ｃ格はシワ目立
ちDESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The present invention will be described in detail with reference to the following examples, which do not limit the scope of the present invention. The evaluation method used in the present invention is as follows. (1) Silky elegant appearance, sensory evaluation of texture: ◎ -very good, ○ -good, △ -normal, × -poor, ×
× -very bad (2) Wrinkle evaluation: A has no wrinkles, B has some wrinkles, C rank has noticeable wrinkles
【００１８】＜積層型マルチフィラメント糸の製造方法
＞アルカリ難溶解性ポリエステルとして、固有粘度０．
６５（オルソクロロフェノ−ル中１重量％で測定）のポ
リエチレンテレフタレ−トを用い、アルカリ易溶解性ポ
リエステルとして、分子量が６０００のポリエチレング
リコ−ルを２５重量％共重合した固有粘度０．９０のブ
ロックポリエ−テルエステルを使用した。これらのポリ
エステルを単独で用いて得られた繊維を溶解速度比（９
０℃の水酸化ナトリウム２重量％の水溶液における溶解
速度の比）は３００倍であった。各々のポリエステルを
２軸の複合紡糸機を用いて計量ポンプで計量し、紡口内
に静止混練素子を８エレメント配置し、両者を重量比９
０／１０で混合紡糸して、１２５０ｍ／分の速度で巻き
取った後、熱延伸し７５ｄ／２４ｆの糸条を得た。<Production Method of Laminated Multifilament Yarn> As an alkali-insoluble polyester, an intrinsic viscosity of 0.1 is used.
Using polyethylene terephthalate of 65 (measured at 1% by weight in orthochlorophenol), 25% by weight of polyethylene glycol having a molecular weight of 6000 was copolymerized as an easily soluble polyester with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.90. Block polyetherester was used. The fibers obtained by using these polyesters alone are dissolved at a dissolution rate ratio (9
The ratio of the dissolution rate in an aqueous solution of 2% by weight of sodium hydroxide at 0 ° C.) was 300 times. Each of the polyesters was weighed with a metering pump using a biaxial composite spinning machine, and eight static kneading elements were arranged in the spinning nozzle.
The mixture was spun at 0/10, wound up at a speed of 1250 m / min, and then hot stretched to obtain a 75d / 24f yarn.
【００１９】（実施例１）積層型マルチフィラメント糸
を河本ＫＷＦサイザ−で松本製アクリル糊剤（Ｗ−３
６）を使いサイジングし、４本のサイジングビ−ムと、
レギュ−ラポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸７５ｄ／
２４ｆを同機・同糊剤でサイジングした４本のサイジン
グビ−ムとを４本ピッチで織機ビ−ムに巻き返し、経糸
を準備した。緯糸は、積層型マルチフィラメント糸とレ
ギュラ−ポリエステルマルチフィラメントを用いて津田
駒エア−ジェットル−ム（ＺＡ−２０９）により１本交
互に打ち込んだ。組織は平組織で、生機密度は経１４０
本／インチ、緯８０本／インチの織物を作り、常法によ
り精練リラックス、アルカリ減量（減量率２５％）、つ
いで、染色、仕上げを行い、仕上げ密度は経１６０本／
インチ、緯１００本／インチの製品を得た。(Example 1) A multi-filament yarn of a laminate type was subjected to an acrylic paste (W-3) manufactured by Matsumoto using a Kawamoto KWF sizer.
6) Sizing with 4 sizing beams,
Regular polyester multifilament yarn 75d /
Twenty-four sizing beams obtained by sizing 24f with the same machine and the same sizing agent were wound around the loom beam at four pitches to prepare a warp. One weft was alternately driven by a Tsudakoma air-jet room (ZA-209) using a laminated multifilament yarn and a regular polyester multifilament. The organization is a flat organization, and the density of greige is 140
Woven fabric with a density of 160 threads / inch, a scouring relaxation, alkali weight reduction (weight loss rate of 25%), dyeing, and finishing.
A product having an inch and a weft of 100 pieces / inch was obtained.
【００２０】（比較例１）実施例１において経糸を積層
型ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸だけを用いて製織
した以外は、実施例１と同様に仕上げた。(Comparative Example 1) Finishing was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the warp was woven using only the laminated polyester multifilament yarn.
【表１】 表１に示すように 実施例１で得られた織物は練絹調の
優雅な外観、風合いと引き裂き強力を保持し、シワにな
りにくいものであったが、比較例１は練絹調の優雅な外
観、風合い並びにシワに劣ったものであった。[Table 1] As shown in Table 1, the woven fabric obtained in Example 1 had an elegant silky appearance, texture and tear strength, and was hard to wrinkle, whereas Comparative Example 1 had an elegant silkiness. It was inferior in appearance, texture and wrinkles.
【００２１】[0021]
【発明の効果】本発明は積層型ポリエステル糸条と他素
材とを交互配列した経糸となすことで、加工時のシワ及
び加工後のシワが発生し難い、練絹調の優雅な外観、風
合いを有し、引き裂き強力の低下もない織物が得られ
る。According to the present invention, a laminated polyester yarn and other materials are alternately arranged to form a warp, so that wrinkles at the time of processing and wrinkles after processing are less likely to occur, and an elegant appearance and texture of silk-like silk. And a woven fabric having no decrease in tear strength is obtained.
Claims (1)
互いに実質的に不同であるポリエステル糸条と他の糸条
が交互に配列されたことを特徴とする交互配列織物。1. An alternately-arranged woven fabric, wherein polyester yarns and other yarns, each of which has a non-circular cross-sectional shape and are substantially unequal to each other, are alternately arranged on the warp.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP8282937A JPH10121348A (en) | 1996-10-07 | 1996-10-07 | Alternately arranged woven fabric |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP8282937A JPH10121348A (en) | 1996-10-07 | 1996-10-07 | Alternately arranged woven fabric |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| JPH10121348A true JPH10121348A (en) | 1998-05-12 |
Family
ID=17659052
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP8282937A Pending JPH10121348A (en) | 1996-10-07 | 1996-10-07 | Alternately arranged woven fabric |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JPH10121348A (en) |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN111321499A (en) * | 2018-12-18 | 2020-06-23 | 上海兆妩品牌管理有限公司 | Preparation method of silk scarf fabric based on superfine mulberry silk fibers/tussah silk fibers |
-
1996
- 1996-10-07 JP JP8282937A patent/JPH10121348A/en active Pending
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN111321499A (en) * | 2018-12-18 | 2020-06-23 | 上海兆妩品牌管理有限公司 | Preparation method of silk scarf fabric based on superfine mulberry silk fibers/tussah silk fibers |
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