CN105908538A - 一种羊毛面料印染工艺 - Google Patents

一种羊毛面料印染工艺 Download PDF

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CN105908538A
CN105908538A CN201610332829.0A CN201610332829A CN105908538A CN 105908538 A CN105908538 A CN 105908538A CN 201610332829 A CN201610332829 A CN 201610332829A CN 105908538 A CN105908538 A CN 105908538A
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wool fabric
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CN105908538B (zh
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杜士良
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TAICANG SHARTEX SHENTAI SWEATER CO Ltd
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Abstract

本发明提供一种羊毛面料印染工艺，包括步骤：准备工序、洗涤、离子液前处理工艺、印染工艺、蒸化工艺、后处理工艺、成品。本发明的羊毛面料印染工艺通过使用离子液对羊毛面料进行前处理有效增加羊毛面料的上染率；其次本发明在印染工艺中使用活性染料并增加释酸剂，有效调节染色过程中的pH值，使染料均匀附着在织物上，本发明提供的羊毛面料印染工艺安全无毒、可提高色牢度、降低染色浴比、减少染料用量的印染助剂。本发明工艺简单，有益效果明显，适于推广使用。

Description

一种羊毛面料印染工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及羊毛面料染色领域，更涉及一种羊毛面料染色工艺。
背景技术
随着人口数量的增长和生活质量的提高，单一纯棉、纯毛、蚕丝、化纤产品已不能满足人们对面料既要美观又要保暖、滑爽等各种功能的要求。棉织物有优良的手感和服用性，而毛织物具有细柔、吸湿、保暖等特点，将两者的优点融合在一起，就产生了羊毛面料这种新型的服装面料。
羊毛面料一般分为两种:(1)梭织面料，也称机织物是把经纱和纬纱相互垂直交织在一起形成的织物。其基本组织有平纹、斜纹、缎纹三种。不同的梭织面料也是由这三种基本组织及由其变化多端的组织而构成。(2)针织面料，用织针将纱线或长丝构成线圈，再把线圈相互串套而成，由于针织物的线圈结构特征，单位长度内储纱量较多，因此大多有很好的弹性。
羊毛面料具有保暖、毛质柔软、弹性好、隔热性强等优点，但是羊毛由于其天然鳞片包覆的结构特点，在印染过程中，经过摩擦、揉搓容易导致纤维损失，使羊毛纤维移位产生毡缩，上色差等问题，因此，需要一种新的技术方案来解决上述问题。
为解决上述问题，在中国专利201310232949.X公开了一种采用离子液预处理的羊绒低温染色方法，将羊绒使用体积浓度为5％～10％的离子液预处理后，使用体积浓度为5％～10％的染料，6g/L的元明粉，调pH值至4～5，水浴，在80℃下添加低温助剂染色。所述预处理于温度80℃，浴比1:50，水浴10～20min。所述染色步骤中水浴的浴比为1：50，时间60～80min。所述低温助剂为低温助剂JL-D或低温助剂ZJ-W。所述低温助剂的体积浓度为0.5％～2％。本发明低温染色后强力比正常无毛绒染色高出10.5％，可极大的提高纱线可纺性，降低染色对纤维造成的损伤。此专利虽然提高了羊绒染色后的强力，但是它存在浴比大，产生废水多，上色度低下等问题。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于克服现有技术的不足，提供一种羊毛面料染色工艺，本发明的羊毛面料染色工艺，降低了染色对纤维造成的损伤，羊毛面料上色度高，染色工艺浴比小。
为达到上述目的，本发明采用的技术方案是：一种羊毛面料印染工艺，其特征在于：包括步骤：
(1)准备工序：准备带染色的羊毛面料；
(2)前处理工艺：对羊毛面料作氯化脱磷、增白剂漂白、洗涤、还原漂洗、洗涤、烘干处理；
(3)离子液处理工艺：离子液预处理体积浓度为5％～10％；
(4)印染工艺：将经过离子液处理的羊毛面料进行染色，将氢氧化钠2-4g/L，碳酸钠8-16g/L，无醛固色剂L 3-5g/L，匀染剂TF-210 3-5g/L，活性染料0.5-1.5g/L依次放入水中，在常温下燃料溶解后，将羊毛面料浸入染液中后再加入印染助剂和释酸剂，羊毛面料在染液中浸染30分钟，升温至50℃，加入柔软剂，保温30-40min，调节pH值为7.5，升温至75℃，保温30分钟；
(5)蒸烫工艺：将印染好的羊毛面料进行蒸烫处理，蒸烫温度为95-105℃，蒸烫时间为30-40min；
(6)后处理工艺：采用25-35℃的温水对蒸烫完毕的羊毛面料进行冲洗，冲洗时间为5-15min；
(6)烘干定型：烘干温度为110-120℃，时间为10-20min；
(7)成品：染色后的面料包装好，运送至下一工序。
优选地，所述步骤(2)前处理工艺中增白剂的浓度为2.5％-4％。
优选地，所述步骤(3)的离子液为疏水性离子液。
优选地，所述步骤(4)的活性染料包括主料和配料，所述主料包括4～6份的聚氧乙烯烷基酚，5～8份的烷芳基磺酸，2～4份的琥珀酸酯，配料包括2～3的油酸钠，2～5份亚硫酸钠，3～4份柠檬酸钠，2～5份的草酸钠，1～4份的氯化钠。
优选地，所述步骤(4)的印染助剂包括椰油二乙醇酰胺、亚硫酸钠、聚乙二醇月桂酸酯、琥珀酸二辛酯磺酸钠、羧甲基纤维素钠、硼砂、氯化钡组成，其中各成分的质量份数为：椰油二乙醇酰胺13-15份、亚硫酸钠3-6份、聚乙二醇月桂酸酯8-16份、琥珀酸二辛酯磺酸钠20-25份、羧甲基纤维素钠5-8份、氯化钡2-3份。
优选地，所述步骤(4)的释酸剂为醋酸铵或硫酸铵。
优选地，所述步骤(4)中印染浴比1:10-20。
本发明的有益效果在于：本发明提供的羊毛面料的印染安全无毒、提高色牢度、可降低染色浴比、减少活性染料用量以及印染助剂的用量，减少印染废水的产生。
具体实施方式
下面通过具体实施例对本发明做进一步的说明，但实施例并不限制本发明的保护范围。
表1为本发明实施例所述羊毛面料印染工艺用的活性染料的化学组分列表；表2为本发明实施例所述述羊毛面料印染工艺用的印染助剂化学组分列表。
表1
表2
实施例1
(1)准备工序：准备带染色的羊毛面料；
(2)前处理工艺：对羊毛面料作氯化脱磷、浓度为2.5％增白剂漂白、洗涤、还原漂洗、洗涤、烘干处理；
(3)离子液处理工艺：疏水性离子液预处理体积浓度为5％；
(4)印染工艺：将经过离子液处理的羊毛面料进行染色，将氢氧化钠2g/L，碳酸钠8g/L，无醛固色剂L 3g/L，匀染剂TF-210 3g/L，活性染料0.5g/L依次放入水中，在常温下燃料溶解后，将羊毛面料浸入染液中后再加入印染助剂和释酸剂醋酸铵，羊毛面料在染液中浸染30分钟，浴比为1:10，升温至50℃，加入柔软剂，保温30min，调节pH值为7.5，升温至75℃，保温30分钟；
(5)蒸烫工艺：将印染好的羊毛面料进行蒸烫处理，蒸烫温度为95℃，蒸烫时间为30min；
(6)后处理工艺：采用25℃的温水对蒸烫完毕的羊毛面料进行冲洗，冲洗时间为5min；
(6)烘干定型：烘干温度为110℃，时间为10min；
(7)成品：染色后的面料包装好，运送至下一工序。
实施例2
(1)准备工序：准备带染色的羊毛面料；
(2)前处理工艺：对羊毛面料作氯化脱磷、浓度为3％增白剂漂白、洗涤、还原漂洗、洗涤、烘干处理；
(3)离子液处理工艺：疏水性离子液预处理体积浓度为8％；
(4)印染工艺：将经过离子液处理的羊毛面料进行染色，将氢氧化钠3g/L，碳酸钠10g/L，无醛固色剂L 4g/L，匀染剂TF-210 4g/L，活性染料1g/L依次放入水中，在常温下燃料溶解后，将羊毛面料浸入染液中后再加入印染助剂和硫酸铵释酸剂，羊毛面料在染液中浸染30分钟，浴比为1:15升温至50℃，加入柔软剂，保温35min，调节pH值为7.5，升温至75℃，保温30分钟；
(5)蒸烫工艺：将印染好的羊毛面料进行蒸烫处理，蒸烫温度为100℃，蒸烫时间为35min；
(6)后处理工艺：采用30℃的温水对蒸烫完毕的羊毛面料进行冲洗，冲洗时间为15min；
(6)烘干定型：烘干温度为115℃，时间为15min；
(7)成品：染色后的面料包装好，运送至下一工序。
实施例3
(1)准备工序：准备带染色的羊毛面料；
(2)前处理工艺：对羊毛面料作氯化脱磷、浓度为4％增白剂漂白、洗涤、还原漂洗、洗涤、烘干处理；
(3)离子液处理工艺：疏水性离子液预处理体积浓度为10％；
(4)印染工艺：将经过离子液处理的羊毛面料进行染色，将氢氧化钠4g/L，碳酸钠16g/L，无醛固色剂L 5g/L，匀染剂TF-210 5g/L，活性染料1.5g/L依次放入水中，在常温下燃料溶解后，将羊毛面料浸入染液中后再加入印染助剂和硫酸铵释酸剂，羊毛面料在染液中浸染30分钟，浴比为1:20升温至50℃，加入柔软剂，保温40min，调节pH值为7.5，升温至75℃，保温30分钟；
(5)蒸烫工艺：将印染好的羊毛面料进行蒸烫处理，蒸烫温度为95-105℃，蒸烫时间为40min；
(6)后处理工艺：采用35℃的温水对蒸烫完毕的羊毛面料进行冲洗，冲洗时间为15min；
(6)烘干定型：烘干温度为120℃，时间为20min；
(7)成品：染色后的面料包装好，运送至下一工序。
实施例4
(1)准备工序：准备带染色的羊毛面料；
(2)前处理工艺：对羊毛面料作氯化脱磷、浓度为4％增白剂漂白、洗涤、还原漂洗、洗涤、烘干处理；
(3)离子液处理工艺：疏水性离子液预处理体积浓度为10％；
(4)印染工艺：将经过离子液处理的羊毛面料进行染色，将氢氧化钠3g/L，碳酸钠15g/L，无醛固色剂L 5g/L，匀染剂TF-210 5g/L，活性染料1.0g/L依次放入水中，在常温下燃料溶解后，将羊毛面料浸入染液中后再加入印染助剂和醋酸铵释酸剂，羊毛面料在染液中浸染30分钟，浴比为1:10，升温至50℃，加入柔软剂，保温35min，调节pH值为7.5，升温至75℃，保温30分钟；
(5)蒸烫工艺：将印染好的羊毛面料进行蒸烫处理，蒸烫温度为105℃，蒸烫时间为35min；
(6)后处理工艺：采用30℃的温水对蒸烫完毕的羊毛面料进行冲洗，冲洗时间为10min；
(6)烘干定型：烘干温度为120℃，时间为20min；
(7)成品：染色后的面料包装好，运送至下一工序。
实施例5
(1)准备工序：准备带染色的羊毛面料；
(2)前处理工艺：对羊毛面料作氯化脱磷、浓度为4％增白剂漂白、洗涤、还原漂洗、洗涤、烘干处理；
(3)离子液处理工艺：疏水性离子液预处理体积浓度为10％；
(4)印染工艺：将经过离子液处理的羊毛面料进行染色，将氢氧化钠4g/L，碳酸钠16g/L，无醛固色剂L 5g/L，匀染剂TF-210 5g/L，活性染料1.5g/L依次放入水中，在常温下燃料溶解后，将羊毛面料浸入染液中后再加入印染助剂和醋酸铵释酸剂，羊毛面料在染液中浸染30分钟，浴比为1:20，升温至50℃，加入柔软剂，保温40min，调节pH值为7.5，升温至75℃，保温30分钟；
(5)蒸烫工艺：将印染好的羊毛面料进行蒸烫处理，蒸烫温度为105℃，蒸烫时间为40min；
(6)后处理工艺：采用35℃的温水对蒸烫完毕的羊毛面料进行冲洗，冲洗时间为15min；
(6)烘干定型：烘干温度为120℃，时间为10-20min；
(7)成品：染色后的面料包装好，运送至下一工序。
实施例1-实施例5的染色布料均符合《GB/T 3921-2008纺织品色牢度试验耐皂洗色牢度》检测标准。
需要说明的是，以上实施例仅用以说明本发明的技术方案而非限制。尽管参照较佳实施例对本发明进行了详细说明，本领域的普通技术人员应当理解，可以对发明的技术方案进行修改或者等同替换，而不脱离本发明技术方案的范围，其均应涵盖在本发明的权利要求范围中。

Claims (7)

1.一种羊毛面料印染工艺，其特征在于：包括步骤：
（1）准备工序：准备带染色的羊毛面料 ；
（2）前处理工艺：对羊毛面料作氯化脱磷、增白剂漂白、洗涤、还原漂洗、洗涤、烘干处理；
（3）离子液处理工艺：预处理离子液体积浓度为 5%~10%；
（4）印染工艺 ：将经过离子液处理的羊毛面料进行染色，将氢氧化钠 2-4g/L，碳酸钠 8-16g/L，无醛固色剂 L 3-5g/L，匀染剂 TF-210 3-5g/L，活性染料0.5-1.5g/L依次放入水中，在常温下燃料溶解后，将羊毛面料浸入染液中后再加入印染助剂和释酸剂，羊毛面料在染液中浸染30分钟，升温至50℃，加入柔软剂，保温30-40min，调节pH值为7.5，升温至75℃，保温30分钟；
（5）蒸烫工艺：将印染好的羊毛面料进行蒸烫处理，蒸烫温度为 95-105℃，蒸烫时间为 30-40min；
（6）后处理工艺：采用 25-35℃的温水对蒸烫完毕的羊毛面料进行冲洗，冲洗时间为5-15min；
（6）烘干定型：烘干温度为 110-120℃，时间为 10-20min；
（7）成品 ：染色后的面料包装好，运送至下一工序。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种羊毛面料印染工艺，其特征在于： 所述步骤（2）前处理工艺中增白剂的浓度为2.5%-4%。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种羊毛面料印染工艺，其特征在于：所述步骤（3）的预处理离子液为疏水性离子液。
4.根据权利要求1所述的一种羊毛面料印染工艺，其特征在于：所述步骤（4）的活性染料包括主料和配料，所述主料包括4～6份的聚氧乙烯烷基酚，5～8份的烷芳基磺酸，2～4份的琥珀酸酯，配料包括2～3的油酸钠，2～5份亚硫酸钠，3～4份柠檬酸钠，2～5份的草酸钠，1～4份的氯化钠。
5.根据权利要求1所述的一种羊毛面料印染工艺，其特征在于：所述步骤（4）的印染助剂包括椰油二乙醇酰胺、亚硫酸钠、聚乙二醇月桂酸酯、琥珀酸二辛酯磺酸钠、羧甲基纤维素钠、硼砂、氯化钡组成，其中各成分的质量份数为 ：椰油二乙醇酰胺 13-15 份、亚硫酸钠 3-6 份、聚乙二醇月桂酸酯 8-16份、琥珀酸二辛酯磺酸钠 20-25 份、羧甲基纤维素钠 5-8份、氯化钡 2-3 份。
6.根据权利要求1所述的一种羊毛面料印染工艺，其特征在于：所述步骤（4）的释酸剂为醋酸铵或硫酸铵。
7.根据权利要求1所述的一种羊毛面料印染工艺，其特征在于：所述步骤（4）中印染浴比1:10-20。
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