WO2022089387A1 - 短纤纱及由其制得的面料 - Google Patents

短纤纱及由其制得的面料 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022089387A1
WO2022089387A1 PCT/CN2021/126236 CN2021126236W WO2022089387A1 WO 2022089387 A1 WO2022089387 A1 WO 2022089387A1 CN 2021126236 W CN2021126236 W CN 2021126236W WO 2022089387 A1 WO2022089387 A1 WO 2022089387A1
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Prior art keywords
fiber
spun
penetration
fibers
yarn
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PCT/CN2021/126236
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
陈娟
范志恒
倪春健
滨田润二
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东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司
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Priority to CN202180064758.XA priority Critical patent/CN116234950A/zh
Publication of WO2022089387A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022089387A1/zh

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F8/00—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof
    • D01F8/04—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers
    • D01F8/14—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers with at least one polyester as constituent
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a spun fiber yarn and a fabric prepared therefrom.
  • the patent document CN206843638U discloses an anti-see-through spun fiber yarn, which includes a cladding layer and a core bundle layer, the cladding layer is a hollow structure, the core bundle layer is located in the hollow of the cladding layer, and the core bundle layer is composed of several core layers ,
  • This structure has multiple scattering effects, and at the same time, it is supplemented by fiber fine denier, surface roughening, and yarn porosification to achieve the anti-penetration effect of light-colored and thin fabrics, but the fiber cross-section design is more complicated, and the core layer needs to be in the
  • the eccentric setting in the cladding layer can bring a very good degree of curling to improve the scattering path, which is difficult in the process and is not conducive to control.
  • patent document WO2019/091447A discloses a core-sheath composite fiber and fabric with high anti-penetration resistance.
  • the composite fiber has a core-sheath composite cross-sectional shape, the core component contains a high concentration of inorganic particles, and the sheath component contains a low concentration of inorganic particles, and the obtained composite fiber has good spinning processability, and also has excellent Anti-penetration, anti-ultraviolet, heat shielding properties.
  • such composite fibers are 100 wt% long fibers, and have a strong chemical fiber feel, and their application range is limited.
  • the patent document CN105734772A discloses an anti-penetration woven fabric and a production method thereof. More than 60wt% of the yarns of the woven fabric are anti-permeable polyester yarns with a core-sheath structure and titanium dioxide content between 3 and 7%. The high anti-permeability and UV resistance of the fabric are achieved by using anti-permeable polyester yarns. sex. However, such anti-penetration polyester yarns are also 100wt% long fibers, and have a strong chemical fiber feel, and their application scope is limited.
  • the purpose of the present invention is to provide a spun fiber yarn with simple and easy process, not only good UV resistance, anti-permeability and heat shielding properties, but also good anti-perspiration property and a fabric prepared therefrom.
  • the spun fiber yarn of the present invention is composed of 40 wt% or more of high-permeability-resistant short fibers, wherein the high-permeability-resistant staple fibers are short fibers with an inorganic particle content of 7.0 to 30.0 wt%.
  • the spun fiber yarn of the present invention comprises more than 40 wt % of high-impermeability short fibers, and the inorganic particles in the high-impermeability short fibers are used to increase the refractive index of light, which can enhance the reflection of visible light and blue light, so that the high-impermeability short fibers have a blue tone , the naked eye looks whiter, bringing anti-transmission effect; and the high content of inorganic particles can absorb a large number of ultraviolet wavelengths, and the anti-ultraviolet effect is superior; at the same time, these inorganic particles can reflect visible light and infrared light, and block the light in the infrared region, thus It has a good heat shielding effect by suppressing the temperature rise caused by the sun.
  • the fabric made of the spun yarn of the present invention has a small difference in reflectivity between dry and wet states, that is to say, the color difference between the dry state and the wet state is not obvious, which can well resolve the sweat stains caused by sweating. of embarrassment.
  • Fig. 1 is a cross-sectional photograph of the spun yarn of the present invention.
  • the spun fiber yarn of the present invention contains 40% by weight of high-impermeability staple fibers. That is, the spun yarn according to the present invention may be a spun yarn composed of 100% by weight of high-permeability-resistant staple fibers, or may be a composite spun yarn formed by blending high-permeability-resistant staple fibers with other staple fibers. If the content of the high anti-penetration staple fiber is less than 40 wt %, the anti-penetration effect and anti-ultraviolet effect of the spun fiber yarn are not good.
  • the other short fibers here are not particularly limited, such as natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, wool, and silk, regenerated fibers such as cupro, viscose, and acetate, and synthetic fibers such as polyester, acrylic, and polyamide, etc., which can be selected according to needs. one or more of.
  • the above polyester fiber may be polyethylene terephthalate (PET), polybutylene terephthalate (PBT), polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT), or the like.
  • the content of inorganic particles is 7.0-30.0 wt %, preferably 7.0-15.0 wt %.
  • the content of inorganic particles is less than 7.0wt%, although there is no problem in spinning performance and fiber physical properties, the reflection and absorption effects of light are affected, and the anti-ultraviolet, anti-permeability and anti-perspiration properties are not good; and inorganic particles
  • the content is higher than 30.0 wt %, the phenomenon of filament breakage and filament floating easily occurs in the spinning process, and the strength of the final product is poor, and the application range is limited.
  • the spun yarn of the present invention is preferably a blended spun yarn.
  • the standard deviation of the blending rate of the high anti-penetration staple fibers in each quadrant is within 10. If the standard deviation exceeds 10, there may be a phenomenon that the high anti-penetration short fibers are gathered on one side, the light can easily pass through the area with a low content of high anti-penetration fibers, and the anti-penetration, UV resistance and heat shielding properties tend to decrease. .
  • the types of inorganic particles are not particularly limited and can be selected according to needs, and are preferably one or more of titanium dioxide, calcium carbonate and zinc oxide.
  • titanium dioxide particles have the best light scattering effect, and have good properties such as safety, stability, and dispersibility, and are therefore more preferable.
  • Titanium dioxide particles are classified into anatase type and rutile type according to the crystal form.
  • the crystal structure of anatase titanium dioxide particles is unstable, and free radicals are easily generated. When the free radicals accumulate to a certain amount, the light fastness of the polymer may be affected.
  • rutile-type titanium dioxide particles are preferred.
  • the type of the highly impermeable staple fiber of the present invention is not particularly limited, as long as it is a fiber that can be mixed with inorganic particles, such as polyester, polyamide, acrylonitrile, regenerated cellulose fibers, etc., preferably polyester or Polyamides.
  • the polyesters can be polyethylene terephthalate (PET), polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT), polybutylene terephthalate (PBT), etc.;
  • the polyamides can be polyamide 6, polyamide 66 and the like.
  • the cross-sectional shape of the highly impermeable staple fiber of the present invention is not particularly limited, either, and may be circular, cross-shaped, multilobal or other irregular shapes.
  • the high-impermeability short fibers of the present invention may be single-component fibers or multi-component composite fibers, preferably composite fibers.
  • the cross-sectional structure of the composite fiber can be a composite form such as a core-sheath and a multi-layer, and such a composite form can maximize the content of titanium dioxide particles, so it is more preferable.
  • the weight ratio of the inorganic particles in the core part and the sheath part is preferably 50 to 95:50 to 5.
  • the number of layers of the conjugate fiber having a multi-layered cross-sectional structure is not particularly limited, but in consideration of cross-sectional formability and basic fiber physical properties, 3 or more layers are preferred, 3 to 15 layers are more preferred, and 3 to 9 layers are most preferred.
  • a composite fiber with a multi-layer cross-sectional structure the polymer A and the polymer B are alternately arranged on the multi-layer cross-sectional structure, and at least one layer is formed by the polymer A with an inorganic particle content of 10.0-70.0 wt%, and the polymer A accounts for the composite fiber. 10 to 70 wt % of the fibers, and the outermost layer is formed of polymer B with an inorganic particle content of 5.0 wt % or less.
  • the components of the polymer A and the polymer B are not particularly limited, but are preferably polyester-based polymers or polyamide-based polymers.
  • the polyester polymer can be polyethylene terephthalate (PET), polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT), polybutylene terephthalate (PBT), etc.
  • the polyamide polymers can be polyamide 6, polyamide 66, and the like.
  • polymer B can be divided into large gloss, semi-extinction and full extinction.
  • Functional ingredients such as antistatic ingredients, hygroscopic ingredients, flame retardant ingredients, antibacterial ingredients, etc., can also be added to these polymers.
  • the present invention does not specifically stipulate the form of the multi-layer cross-sectional structure, which may be arranged in concentric circles, parallel arrangements, or perpendicularly intersecting arrangements between layers.
  • the innermost central layer may be a polymer layer or a hollow layer.
  • the production method of the spun yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, and may be a method of blending raw cotton in the cotton blending or carding step, and overlapping and compounding the sliver in the drawing step or the blending and carding step.
  • the high-impermeability staple fibers are first passed through a carding machine to make them into sliver, and then compounded with the sliver of other staple fibers in the subsequent drawing process, preferably Make three or more draws.
  • the other short fibers are other synthetic fibers or regenerated fibers, they are preferably mixed when the raw cotton is mixed, and then enter the carding machine, and more preferably beaten twice or more.
  • the fabric is prepared by using the spun yarn of the present invention as all or part of the raw material.
  • the fabrics here can be woven fabrics or knitted fabrics.
  • other yarns are not particularly limited and can be selected as needed.
  • the fiber raw materials of these yarns include polyethylene terephthalate fibers, polyamide fibers, and polyolefins. fiber, polyurethane fiber, etc.
  • suitable water-absorbing agents, water-repellent agents, softeners, etc. can be selected for processing according to the needs in the post-finishing process.
  • These agents can be commercially available or self-prepared products. Specially limited. Among them, polyester-based resins, acrylic resins, etc. are exemplified as water-absorbing agents, and fluorocarbon-based resins, hydrocarbon-based resins, and the like are exemplified as water-absorbing agents.
  • silicone-based resins and the like can be exemplified.
  • the absolute value of the difference between the reflectance in the wet state and the reflectance in the dry state on one side of the fabric using the spun fiber yarn of the present invention is below 7%, and the evaluation of discoloration and fading is grade 3-4 and above.
  • the color difference of the knitted fabric is not obvious in the dry and wet state, which can resolve the embarrassment caused by sweat stains after sweating.
  • the anti-permeability rate of the fabric of the present invention is more than 85%, and the anti-permeability performance is excellent.
  • the cross-sectional shape of the cellulose fibers in the blended raw materials can be exemplified as follows: the cross-section of the cotton fiber is an irregular waist circle with a middle cavity, and the cross-section of the ramie fiber is a waist circle with a middle cavity and a crack in the cell wall.
  • the section of wool is approximately circular or oval
  • the section of mulberry silk is an irregular triangle
  • the section of cupro fiber is circular
  • the section of viscose fiber is serrated and circular
  • the section of acetate fiber is leaf-shaped.
  • Five spun yarns of any length were selected as test samples. Select one of them, take a photo of its cross-section using the paraffin embedding method, draw a circle (circumscribed circle) including all single fibers, take the center of the circle as the center point, divide the cross-section into four quadrants, and distinguish each fiber according to the shape of the fiber cross-section. The types of fibers in each quadrant and the high-impermeability short fibers are identified. All single fibers in each quadrant are cut and placed in four quadrants. The total weight of all single fibers in each quadrant and the The total weight of the high anti-penetration short fibers in each quadrant, and the mixing rate of the high anti-penetration short fibers in each quadrant in the quadrant was calculated.
  • the mixing ratio of the high anti-penetration staple fibers in each quadrant of the remaining 4 samples was obtained, a total of 20 sets of data were obtained, and the sample standard deviation of the 20 sets of data was calculated as the high anti-penetration short fiber of the present invention.
  • the standard deviation of the mixing rate was calculated as the high anti-penetration short fiber of the present invention.
  • the wet (wet-saturated) state refers to soaking the sample in water, taking it out when it is completely wet, and then laying it flat in an environment with a temperature of 20°C and a humidity of 65%, and it is called the wet-saturated state when it is not dripping.
  • the dry state refers to a state in which an environment of 20° C. and a humidity of 65% has been equilibrated for 24 hours. According to the same method, a total of 5 sets of data are measured, and the average value is taken as the absolute value of the reflectivity difference of the present invention.
  • UV resistance UV resistance, UPF value
  • a piece of 15cm*15cm sample cloth is first pretreated at 50°C*1 hour, and then placed in a standard environment of 20°C*65%RH to adjust humidity for more than 12 hours.
  • the irradiation distance is 50cm
  • the black cardboard and the sample are kept at a distance of 5mm
  • a temperature sensor is placed in the middle of the reverse side of the black cardboard
  • the surface of the sample cloth is irradiated with a lamp.
  • the irradiation time is For 15 minutes, the temperature was recorded every 1 minute, and the temperature at the 10th minute was taken as the data of the heat shielding property of the present invention. The lower the temperature, the better the heat shielding property.
  • the core-sheath structure PET raw cotton with a rutile-type titanium dioxide particle content of 12.1 wt% is selected as the high-impermeable short fiber raw material, and the cotton-beating process, the carding process, the drawing process, the roving process and the siro compact spinning process are followed in turn.
  • Cotton beating process two times cotton beating
  • drawing process two times drawing
  • siro compact spinning process the number of revolutions is 12500rpm
  • the draft ratio is 20 to 40 times
  • the average negative pressure of the suction port is 2000Pa.
  • the high anti-penetration short fiber content is: 100wt% Ne 45 Staple Yarn.
  • the above-mentioned spun fiber yarn is used as warp and weft yarn, 1/1 plain weave is woven, the warp density is 110/inch, and the weft density is 76/inch to obtain grey fabric, and then scouring (90 ° C ⁇ 20 minutes) ⁇ dyeing (dispersion). dyestuff, 130°C ⁇ 30 minutes) ⁇ post-finishing (polyester water-absorbing softener, 80° C ⁇ 20 minutes) ⁇ drying process (150° C ⁇ 1 minute) to obtain the woven fabric of the present invention, and the performance parameters are shown in the table 1.
  • the multi-layered PET raw cotton with a rutile-type titanium dioxide particle content of 7.7 wt % and a semi-matte cationic PET raw cotton with a titanium dioxide particle content of 0.3 wt % were selected as raw materials, wherein the cotton mixing process: two times of cotton beating, and the drawing process: two Second drawing, the rest are the same as in Example 1, to obtain 45-inch staple fiber yarn and woven fabric with a high anti-penetration short fiber content of 85wt%, the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • the multi-layer structure PET raw cotton has a three-layer structure, and the cross-section is an outer layer, a middle layer and an inner layer from the outside to the inside.
  • the three layers are all PET containing white titanium dioxide particles.
  • the content of titanium dioxide particles in the intermediate layer is 15wt%
  • the proportion of the middle layer in the whole section is 50%
  • the content of titanium dioxide particles in both the outer layer and the inner layer is 0.3 wt%.
  • the core-sheath structure PET raw cotton and Xinjiang cotton with a rutile-type titanium dioxide particle content of 12.1 wt% were selected as raw materials to obtain sliver, namely, a cotton sliver formed by the core-sheath structure PET raw cotton and a cotton sliver formed by 100% Xinjiang cotton, respectively,
  • sliver namely, a cotton sliver formed by the core-sheath structure PET raw cotton and a cotton sliver formed by 100% Xinjiang cotton, respectively.
  • three times of drawing were used, and the rest were the same as those in Example 1, to obtain a 45-inch spun yarn and a woven fabric with a high anti-penetration short fiber content of 65 wt%.
  • the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • the core-sheath structure PET raw cotton with a rutile-type titanium dioxide particle content of 29.5 wt% and viscose fibers with a titanium dioxide particle content of 0.3 wt% were selected as raw materials, and the rest were the same as in Example 2, and a 45-inch high-impermeable short fiber content of 65 wt% was obtained.
  • Count spun fiber yarn and woven fabric, the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • the core-sheath structure PET raw cotton and Xinjiang cotton with a rutile-type titanium dioxide particle content of 20.0 wt% were selected as raw materials to obtain cotton sliver, and the rest were the same as in Example 3, and the 45-inch staple fiber yarn with a high anti-penetration short fiber content of 65 wt% was obtained. And woven fabrics, the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • the core-sheath structure PET raw cotton and Xinjiang cotton with a rutile-type titanium dioxide particle content of 12.1 wt % are used as raw materials to obtain sliver respectively, and the drawing process is adopted twice, and the rest are the same as in Example 3, to obtain a high anti-penetration short fiber content. It is 65wt% 45-inch staple fiber yarn and woven fabric, and the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • the multi-layer structure PET raw cotton has a 7-layer structure, and the cross-section is the first layer, the second layer, the third layer...the seventh layer, and the seven layers are all PET containing white titanium dioxide particles.
  • the second layer, The content of titanium dioxide particles in the fourth and sixth layers is 15 wt%, and the total proportion of these three layers in the entire section is 50%.
  • the first, third, fifth, and seventh layers are titanium dioxide particles The content of particles was all 0.3 wt %.
  • the core-sheath structure PET raw cotton and American cotton with an anatase type titanium dioxide particle content of 12.1 wt% were selected as raw materials to obtain sliver, and the rest were the same as in Example 3, and the 45-inch staple fiber with a high anti-penetration short fiber content of 65 wt% was obtained. Yarn and woven fabric, the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • the multi-layer structure PET raw cotton has a three-layer structure, and the cross-section is an outer layer, a middle layer and an inner layer from the outside to the inside.
  • the three layers are all PET containing white titanium dioxide particles.
  • the content of titanium dioxide particles in the intermediate layer is 15wt%
  • the proportion of the middle layer in the whole section is 50%
  • the content of titanium dioxide particles in both the outer layer and the inner layer is 0.3 wt%.
  • the core-sheath structure PET raw cotton with a rutile-type titanium dioxide particle content of 12.1 wt % and a semi-matte PET raw cotton with a titanium dioxide content of 0.3 wt % were selected as raw materials, and the rest were the same as in Example 2, and the short fibers with a high anti-penetration short fiber content of 41 wt % were obtained. Yarn and woven fabric, the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • the multi-layer structure PET raw cotton has a 12-layer structure, and the cross-section is the first layer, the second layer, the third layer...
  • the 12th layer and the 12th layer are all PET containing white titanium dioxide particles from the outside to the inside.
  • the content of titanium dioxide particles in the middle is 15wt%
  • the proportion of the double-numbered layers in the entire section is 50%
  • the content of titanium dioxide particles in the single-numbered layers is 0.3wt%.
  • the multi-layer structure polyamide raw cotton has a 3-layer structure.
  • the cross-section is an outer layer, a middle layer and an inner layer from the outside to the inside.
  • the three layers are all polyamides containing white titanium dioxide particles.
  • the content of titanium dioxide particles in the middle layer is 15wt. %, the proportion of the middle layer in the entire section is 50%, and the content of titanium dioxide particles in the outer layer and the inner layer are both 0.3 wt%.
  • the round-section PET raw cotton with a rutile-type titanium dioxide particle content of 0.3 wt% was selected as the raw material, and the rest were the same as those in Example 1, to obtain spun yarn and woven fabric.
  • the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • PET raw cotton with a circular section with an anatase type titanium dioxide particle content of 2.6 wt% was selected as the raw material, and the rest were the same as those in Example 1, to obtain spun yarn and woven fabric.
  • the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • the content of high anti-penetration staple fiber is 35wt%, and the rest are the same as those in Example 3.
  • the staple fiber yarn and woven fabric are obtained, and the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • Example 3 It can be seen from Example 3 and Example 6 that, under the same conditions, the spun fiber yarn with the standard deviation of the mixing ratio of high anti-penetration staple fibers is 9.0 and the spun yarn with the standard deviation of the mixing ratio of high anti-penetration short fibers is 13.0. , the absolute value of the reflectivity difference of the former fabric is lower than that of the latter, that is to say, the fabric obtained by the former has better anti-perspiration effect than the latter, and the anti-penetration, UV resistance and heat shielding properties are also better than the latter.
  • Example 3 and Example 7 It can be seen from Example 3 and Example 7 that under the same conditions, the spun fiber yarn composed of the high permeability-proof short fibers containing titanium dioxide particles and the spun fiber yarn composed of the high permeability-resistant short fibers containing calcium carbonate particles are similar to each other. Compared with the latter, the absolute value of the reflectivity difference of the fabric obtained by the former is lower than that of the latter, that is to say, the anti-perspiration effect of the fabric obtained by the former is better than that of the latter, and the permeability, UV resistance and heat shielding properties of the fabric obtained by the former are also all good. better than the latter.
  • Example 3 It can be seen from Example 3 and Example 9 that under the same conditions, the spun yarn formed from the highly impermeable short fibers containing anatase-type titanium dioxide particles and the spun yarn formed of the highly impermeable short fibers containing rutile-type titanium dioxide particles Compared with spun yarn, the absolute value of the reflectivity difference of the fabric obtained by the former is lower than that of the latter, that is to say, the anti-perspiration effect of the fabric obtained by the former is better than that of the latter, and the fabric obtained by the former has anti-penetration, UV resistance and shielding. The heat is also better than the latter.
  • Example 8 and Example 13 It can be seen from Example 8 and Example 13 that under the same conditions, the spun yarn formed of high-impermeability short fibers with a 7-layer cross-sectional structure and the short fiber yarn formed of high-impermeability short fibers with a 12-layer cross-sectional structure Compared with fiber yarn, the absolute value of the reflectivity difference of the former fabric is lower than that of the latter, that is to say, the fabric obtained by the former has better anti-perspiration effect than the latter, and the fabric obtained by the former has anti-penetration, UV resistance and heat shielding. Sex is also better than the latter.

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Abstract

一种短纤纱及由其制得的面料。该短纤纱由40wt％以上的高防透短纤维构成，高防透短纤维为无机粒子含量7.0～30.0wt％的短纤维。由该纱线制得的面料不仅具有良好的抗紫外线性、防透性和遮热性，而且具有良好的防汗渍性。

Description

短纤纱及由其制得的面料 技术领域
本发明涉及一种短纤纱及由其制得的面料。
背景技术
随着生活水平的不断提高，人们对服装的要求也越来越高，不仅要求款式新颖，而且对舒适性提出了更高的要求。对于构成面料的纱线而言，各种功能性高附加值短纤纱也在不断地推陈出新。
如专利文献CN206843638U公开了一种防透视短纤纱，包括包覆层和芯束层，包覆层为中空结构，芯束层位于包覆层的中空内，芯束层由若干个芯层组成，这样的结构具有多重散射效果，同时辅以纤维细旦化、表面粗糙化、纱线多孔化，实现了浅色轻薄织物的防透效果，但是纤维断面设计较为复杂，而且芯束层需要在包覆层中偏心设置，才能带来非常好的卷曲度以提高散射途径，工艺上有难度，不利于控制。
又如，专利文献WO2019/091447A公开了一种高防透芯鞘复合纤维及织物。该复合纤维为芯鞘复合断面形态，芯成分中含有高浓度的无机粒子，鞘成分中含有低浓度的无机粒子，所得到的复合纤维在具有良好的纺丝加工性的同时，还具有优异的防透、抗紫外、遮热性能。但是这样的复合纤维为100wt％长纤维，化纤感较强，应用范围受到限制。
再如，专利文献CN105734772A公开了一种防透机织物及其生产 方法。该机织物的60wt％以上的纱线为具有芯鞘结构且二氧化钛含量在3～7％之间的防透涤纶纱线，通过采用防透涤纶纱线来实现面料的高防透性和抗紫外性。但是这样的防透涤纶纱线同样为100wt％长纤维，化纤感较强，应用范围受到限制。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种工艺简单易行，不仅具有良好的抗紫外线性、防透性和遮热性，而且具有良好的防汗渍性的短纤纱及由其制得的面料。
本发明的技术解决方案：
(1)本发明的短纤纱，由40wt％以上的高防透短纤维构成，其中，高防透短纤维为无机粒子含量7.0～30.0wt％的短纤维。
(2)上述(1)的短纤纱，其为均一的混纺纱，且截面上四个象限里，每个象限中高防透短纤维的混率的标准偏差在10以内。
(3)上述(1)的短纤纱，高防透短纤维中的无机粒子为二氧化钛、碳酸钙和氧化锌的一种或更多种。
(4)上述(1)的短纤纱，高防透短纤维为聚酯类或聚酰胺类。
(5)上述(1)～(4)中任一项的短纤纱，高防透短纤维为具有芯鞘型断面结构的复合纤维或者为具有3层以上多层断面结构的复合纤维。
(6)上述(5)的短纤纱，高防透短纤维为具有3层～15层的多层断面结构的复合纤维。
(7)一种含有(1)～(6)中任一项的短纤纱的面料。
(8)上述(7)的面料，其在干湿状态下的反射率差的绝对值在7％以下。
本发明的短纤纱包括40wt％以上的高防透短纤维，利用高防透短纤维中无机粒子来提高光线的折射率，可以增强可见光蓝光的反射，使高防透短纤维带有蓝色调，肉眼看起来更白，带来防透效果；而且高含量的无机粒子可以吸收大量的紫外线波段波长，抗紫外线效果优越；同时这些无机粒子可以反射可见光和红外光，遮断红外区域的光，从而抑制日晒带来的温度上升，具有很好的遮热效果。另外，本发明的短纤纱制得的面料在干湿状态下的反射率差小，也就是说干燥状态和湿润状态下的颜色差异不明显，可以很好地化解出汗后汗渍等带来的尴尬。
附图说明
图1为本发明短纤纱的断面写真图。
具体实施方式
本发明的短纤纱含有40wt％的高防透短纤维。即，本发明所涉及的短纤纱可以为100wt％高防透短纤维构成的短纤纱，也可以为高防透短纤维与其他短纤维混纺而形成的复合短纤纱。如果高防透短纤维的含量低于40wt％的话，短纤纱的防透效果和抗紫外效果不好。
这里的其他短纤维没有特别限定，如棉、麻、毛、绢等天然纤维，铜氨、粘胶、醋酸酯等再生纤维，聚酯、丙烯酸、聚酰胺等合成纤维等，可根据需要选择其中的一种或多种。上述聚酯纤维可以是聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯(PET)、聚对苯二甲酸丁二醇酯(PBT)、聚对苯二甲 酸丙二醇酯(PTT)等。
本发明的高防透短纤维中，无机粒子含量为7.0～30.0wt％，优选为7.0～15.0wt％。无机粒子含量低于7.0wt％时，虽然在纺丝性能和纤维物性方面没有问题，但是对光线的反射和吸收效果受到影响，抗紫外线性、防透性和防汗渍性不好；而无机粒子含量高于30.0wt％时，在纺丝过程中易发生断丝、飘丝现象，而且最终产品的强度差，应用范围受到限制。
本发明的短纤纱优选为混纺短纤纱。作为表示混纺短纤纱均匀度的指标，短纤纱截面上的四个象限里，每个象限中所述高防透短纤维的混率的标准偏差在10以内。如果标准偏差超过10的话，可能会出现高防透短纤维聚集在一侧的现象，光线可以轻易从高防透纤维含量低的区域透过，防透、抗紫外和遮热性有下降的趋势。
本发明的高防透短纤维中，无机粒子的种类没有特别限定，可根据需要进行选择，优选为二氧化钛、碳酸钙和氧化锌中的一种或更多种。其中，二氧化钛粒子对光的散射效果最好，并且具有良好的安全性、稳定性以及分散性等特性，因此，作为更优选。根据结晶形态的不同，二氧化钛粒子分为锐钛型和金红石型。锐钛型二氧化钛粒子的结晶构造不稳定，易生成自由基，当自由基积蓄到一定的量时，有可能会影响聚合物的耐光坚牢度。如果纤维中大量含有锐钛型二氧化钛粒子的话，纤维的耐光性能有变差的趋势，因此，优选金红石型二氧化钛粒子。
本发明的高防透短纤维，其种类没有特别限定，只要是能混入无 机粒子的纤维都可以，如聚酯类、聚酰胺类、丙烯腈类、再生纤维素纤维等，优选聚酯类或聚酰胺类。具体地说，所述聚酯类可以是聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯(PET)、聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯(PTT)、聚对苯二甲酸丁二醇酯(PBT)等；所述聚酰胺类可以是聚酰胺6、聚酰胺66等。
本发明的高防透短纤维，其断面形状也没有特别限定，可以是圆形，也可以是十字形、多叶形等异型。本发明的高防透短纤维，可以是单组分纤维，也可以是多组分的复合纤维，优选为复合纤维。其中，复合纤维的断面结构可以是芯鞘、多层等复合形态，这样的复合形态可以实现二氧化钛粒子含量的最大化，因此作为更优选。作为具有芯鞘型断面结构的复合纤维，其芯部与鞘部中无机粒子的重量比优选为50～95：50～5。作为具有多层断面结构的复合纤维，其层数没有特别限定，考虑到断面成型性以及纤维基本物性等，优选3层以上，进一步优选3层～15层，最优选3层～9层。
具有多层断面结构的复合纤维，其多层断面结构上聚合物A和聚合物B交互排列，至少1层由无机粒子含量为10.0～70.0wt％的聚合物A形成，并且聚合物A占复合纤维的10～70wt％，最外层由无机粒子含量为5.0wt％以下的聚合物B形成。
本发明中，聚合物A和聚合物B的成分没有特别的限定，优选为聚酯类聚合物或聚酰胺类聚合物。具体地说，所述聚酯类聚合物可以是聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯(PET)、聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯(PTT)、聚对苯二甲酸丁二醇酯(PBT)等均聚合物，也可以是它们的共聚物； 所述聚酰胺类聚合物可以是聚酰胺6、聚酰胺66等。根据聚合物B中无机粒子含量的不同，聚合物B可以分为大有光、半消光和全消光。这些聚合物中还可以添加功能性成分，如抗静电成分、吸湿成分、阻燃成分、抗菌成分等。
本发明对多层断面结构的形态不做特别规定，可以是同心圆排列、平行排列，也可以是各层之间垂直相交排列等。当多层断面结构为同心圆排列时，最内部的中心层可以是聚合物层，也可以是中空层。
本发明的短纤纱，其制造方法并无特别限定，可以是在混打棉或梳棉工序中将原棉进行混棉方法，在并条工序或混合针梳工序中将条子重叠复合的方法。在精纺工序中供给多根粗纱或条子进行精纺加捻的方法等。
更具体地说，例如，当其他短纤维为棉短纤维时，先高防透短纤维通过梳棉机使其成为条子，在随后的并条工序中与其他短纤维的棉条一起复合，优选进行三次以上并条。当其他短纤维为其他合成纤维或再生纤维时，优选在原棉混合时进行混合，其后再进入梳棉机，更优选进行两次以上打棉。
利用本发明的短纤纱作为全部或部分原料制得面料。这里的面料可以是机织物，也可以是针织物。部分使用本发明的短纤纱时，其他纱线没有特别限定，可根据需要进行选择，这些纱线的纤维原料可以列举的是聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯纤维、聚酰胺纤维、聚烯烃纤维、聚氨酯纤维等。
在本发明面料的制造过程中，后整理时可以根据需要选择合适的 吸水剂、防水剂、柔软剂等进行加工，这些药剂可以是市售品，也可以是自行配制得到的产品，种类也没有特别限定。其中，吸水剂可以列举的是聚酯类树脂、丙烯酸类树脂等，防水剂可以列举的是碳氟类树脂、碳氢类树脂等。柔软剂可以列举的是有机硅类树脂等。
使用本发明短纤纱的面料一面在湿润状态反射率和干燥状态反射率之间的差的绝对值在7％以下，变褪色评价在3-4级及以上。干湿状态下编织物的颜色差不明显，可以化解出汗后汗渍带来的尴尬。
作为优选，本发明的面料的防透率为85％以上，防透性能优越。
以下结合实施例及比较例对本发明进一步说明，但本发明不限于此。本发明中所涉及的各参数通过如下方法测得。
(1)高防透短纤维的含量
选取任意长度的10根短纤纱作为测试样本。取其中1根短纤纱，根据断面形态以及无机粒子含量(石蜡包埋法)的区别，分解出原棉1(高防透短纤维原棉)、原棉2、原棉3……。再根据JIS L 1015：2010测试方法计算出高防透短纤维原棉的平均纤度记为a1，以及其他原棉的平均纤度并记为a2、a3……。接着拍摄10根短纤纱的断面照片，在显微镜下根据断面形态数出每张照片上高防透短纤维原棉的根数，计算出总根数之和并记为b1，高防透短纤维的重量X＝a1×b1。分别数出其他原棉的根数，计算出总根数之和并记为b2、b3……，总重量Y＝a1×b1+a2×b2+a3×b3……，计算出高防透短纤维的含量＝(X/Y)×100％。
其中，混纺原料中的纤维素纤维断面形态可以举例的是：棉纤维 的断面为不规则的腰圆形、有中腔，苎麻纤维的断面为腰圆形、有中腔、胞壁有裂纹，羊毛的断面为近似圆形或椭圆形，桑蚕丝的断面为不规则的三角形，铜氨纤维的断面为圆形，粘胶纤维的断面为锯齿圆形，醋酸纤维的断面为叶状。
(2)高防透短纤维中无机粒子的含量
根据断面形态以及无机粒子含量(石蜡包埋法)的区别，分解出4g左右的高防透短纤维，熔融制样，通过X射线荧光光谱仪(生产商：Rigaku，型号：ZSX PrimusⅢ+)测定其中无机粒子的含量。
(3)高防透短纤维的混率的标准偏差
选取任意长度的5根短纤纱作为测试样本。选取其中1根，利用石蜡包埋法拍摄其横截面照片，将所有单纤维包含在内画圆(外切圆)，以圆心为中心点，把横截面分成四个象限，根据纤维断面形状区分每个象限中的纤维种类并标识出高防透短纤维，将每个象限中的所有的单纤维都剪下来并按照四个象限分别放置，分别称出每个象限中所有单纤维的总重量以及每个象限中高防透短纤维的总重量，计算出每个象限中高防透短纤维在该象限中的混率。按照同样的方法，得到余下4根样本的每个象限中高防透短纤维在该象限中的混率，共20组数据，计算出这20组数据的样本标准偏差作为本发明的高防透短纤维的混率的标准偏差。
(4)防透率
使用色调仪(型号650、厂家datacolour)分别测试白板、黑板L值：L(白)、L(黑)。取10×10cm样布3块，分别衬着白板、黑板 测试出它们的L值，白板和样布的L值记为L1、黑板和样布的L值记为L2，通过如下公式计算出样布的防透率：
防透率(％)＝100％-[(L1-L2)*100％]。
(5)反射率差的绝对值
剪取平整无褶皱10cm×10cm试样2块，其中一块作为干燥状态测试样，一块作为湿润状态测试样。用紫外分光光度计分别测出试样在干燥状态和湿润(湿饱和)状态的反射率，然后计算出两者差的绝对值。其中湿润(湿饱和)状态是指，将试样浸泡到水中，完全润湿时取出来，再在温度20℃、湿度65％的环境下平铺，等到不滴水状态时称为湿饱和状态。干燥状态是指20℃、湿度65％的环境平衡24小时的状态。按照同样的方法一共测5组数据，取平均值作为本发明反射率差的绝对值。
(6)抗紫外线性(抗UV性、UPF值)
根据GB/T 6529-2008标准。
(7)遮热性
将15cm*15cm的样布1块先进行50℃*1小时的预处理，再放置在20℃*65％RH的标准环境中调湿12小时以上。利用灯型号：PRS500W、灯管功率：500W的设备，照射距离为50cm，黑色纸板与试样保持5mm的距离，在黑色纸板反面的中间处放置温度传感器，用灯照射样布表面，照射时间为15分钟，每隔1分钟记录温度，取第10分钟时的温度作为本发明遮热性的数据，温度越低，遮热性越好。
实施例1
选用金红石型二氧化钛粒子含量为12.1wt％的芯鞘结构PET原棉作为高防透短纤维原料，依次经过打棉工序、梳棉工序、并条工序、粗纱工序以及赛络紧密纺工序，其中，混打棉工序：两次打棉，并条工序：两次并条，赛络紧密纺工序：回转数12500rpm、牵伸倍率20～40倍、吸口平均负压2000Pa，得到高防透短纤维含量为100wt％的45英支短纤纱。
将上述短纤纱作为经纬纱，1/1平纹组织进行织造，经向密度110根/inch、纬向密度76根/inch，得到坯布，然后经过精练(90℃×20分钟)→染色(分散染料，130℃×30分钟)→后整理(聚酯类吸水柔软剂、80℃×20分钟)→烘干工程(150℃×1分钟)，得到本发明的机织物，各项性能参数见表1。
实施例2
选用金红石型二氧化钛粒子含量为7.7wt％的多层结构PET原棉和二氧化钛粒子含量为0.3wt％的半消光阳离子PET原棉作为原料，其中，混打棉工序：两次打棉，并条工序：两次并条，其余同实施例1，得到高防透短纤维含量为85wt％的45英支短纤纱和机织物，各项性能参数见表1。
其中，多层结构PET原棉为3层结构，断面上由外向里依次为外层、中间层以及里层，3层均为含有白色二氧化钛粒子的PET,中间层中二氧化钛粒子的含量为15wt％且中间层在整个断面上的占比为50％，外层和里层中二氧化钛粒子的含量均为0.3wt％。
实施例3
选用金红石型二氧化钛粒子含量为12.1wt％的芯鞘结构PET原棉和新疆棉作为原料分别制得棉条，即分别制得芯鞘结构PET原棉形成的棉条以及100％新疆棉形成的棉条，并条工序中采用三次并条，其余同实施例1，得到高防透短纤维含量为65wt％的45英支的短纤纱和机织物，各项性能参数见表1。
实施例4
选用金红石型二氧化钛粒子含量为29.5wt％的芯鞘结构PET原棉和二氧化钛粒子含量为0.3wt％的粘胶纤维作为原料，其余同实施例2，得到高防透短纤维含量为65wt％的45英支短纤纱和机织物，各项性能参数见表1。
实施例5
选用金红石型二氧化钛粒子含量为20.0wt％的芯鞘结构PET原棉和新疆棉作为原料分别制得棉条，其余同实施例3，得到高防透短纤维含量为65wt％的45英支短纤纱和机织物，各项性能参数见表1。
实施例6
选用金红石型二氧化钛粒子含量为12.1wt％的芯鞘结构PET原棉和新疆棉作为原料分别制得棉条，并条工序中采用两次并条，其余同实施例3，得到高防透短纤维含量为65wt％的45英支短纤纱和机织物，各项性能参数见表1。
实施例7
选用碳酸钙粒子含量为12.1wt％的芯鞘结构PET原棉和美国棉作为原料分别制得棉条，其余同实施例3，得到高防透短纤维含量为 65wt％的45英支短纤纱和机织物，各项性能参数见表1。
实施例8
选用金红石型二氧化钛粒子含量为7.7wt％的多层结构的PET原棉和二氧化钛粒子含量为0.3wt％的粘胶纤维作为原料，其余同实施例2，得到高防透短纤维含量为85wt％的45英支短纤纱和机织物，各项性能参数见表1。
其中，多层结构PET原棉为7层结构，断面上由外向里依次为第1层、第2层、第3层…第7层，7层均为含有白色二氧化钛粒子的PET,第2层、第4层、第6层中二氧化钛粒子的含量为15wt％且这3层的总合在整个断面上的占比为50％，第1层、第3层、第5层、第7层中二氧化钛粒子的含量均为0.3wt％。
实施例9
选用锐钛型二氧化钛粒子含量为12.1wt％的芯鞘结构PET原棉和美国棉作为原料分别制得棉条，其余同实施例3，得到高防透短纤维含量为65wt％的45英支短纤纱和机织物，各项性能参数见表1。
实施例10
选用金红石型二氧化钛粒子含量为7.7wt％的多层结构PET原棉和美国棉作为原料分别制得棉条，其余同实施例3，得到高防透短纤维含量为65wt％的30英支短纤纱。
在28针圆编机上，选用平针组织编织得到坯布，然后经过精练(90℃×20分钟)→染色(分散染料，130℃×30分钟)→后整理(聚酯系吸水柔软剂、80℃×20分钟)→烘干工程(150℃×1分钟)，得 到本发明的圆编物，各项性能参数见表1。
其中，多层结构PET原棉为3层结构，断面上由外向里依次为外层、中间层以及里层，3层均为含有白色二氧化钛粒子的PET,中间层中二氧化钛粒子的含量为15wt％且中间层在整个断面上的占比为50％，外层和里层中二氧化钛粒子的含量均为0.3wt％。
实施例11
选用金红石型二氧化钛粒子含量为12.1wt％的并列结构PET原棉和美国棉作为原料分别制得棉条，其余同实施例3，得到高防透短纤维含量为65wt％的短纤纱和机织物，各项性能参数见表1。
实施例12
选用金红石型二氧化钛粒子含量为12.1wt％的芯鞘结构PET原棉和二氧化钛含量为0.3wt％的半消光PET原棉作为原料，其余同实施例2，得到高防透短纤维含量为41wt％的短纤纱和机织物，各项性能参数见表1。
实施例13
选用金红石型二氧化钛含量为7.7wt％的多层结构的PET原棉和和二氧化钛含量为0.3wt％的粘胶纤维作为原料，其余同实施例2，得到高防透短纤维含量为85wt％的短纤纱和机织物，各项性能参数见表1。
其中，多层结构PET原棉为12层结构，断面上由外向里依次为第1层、第2层、第3层……第12层，12层均为含有白色二氧化钛粒子的PET,双数层中二氧化钛粒子的含量为15wt％且双数层在整个 断面上的占比为50％，单数层中二氧化钛粒子的含量均为0.3wt％。
实施例14
选用金红石型二氧化钛含量为7.7wt％的多层结构的聚酰胺原棉和美国棉作为原料分别制得棉条，其余同实施例3，得到高防透纤维含量为85wt％的短纤纱和机织物，各项性能参数见表1。
其中，多层结构聚酰胺原棉为3层结构，断面上由外向里依次为外层、中间层以及里层，3层均为含有白色二氧化钛粒子的聚酰胺,中间层中二氧化钛粒子的含量为15wt％且中间层在整个断面上的占比为50％，外层和里层中二氧化钛粒子的含量均为0.3wt％。
比较例1
选用金红石型二氧化钛粒子含量为0.3wt％的圆形断面PET原棉作为原料，其余同实施例1，得到短纤纱和机织物，各项性能参数见表1。
比较例2
选用锐钛型二氧化钛粒子含量为2.6wt％的圆形断面PET原棉作为原料，其余同实施例1，得到短纤纱和机织物，各项性能参数见表1。
比较例3
高防透短纤维的含量为35wt％，其余同实施例3，得到短纤纱和机织物，各项性能参数见表1。
表1
Figure PCTCN2021126236-appb-000001
根据上表，
(1)由实施例3和实施例6可知，同等条件下，高防透短纤维的混率标准偏差为9.0的短纤纱和高防透短纤维的混率标准偏差为13.0的短纤纱相比，前者所得面料的反射率差的绝对值比后者低，也就是说前者所得面料的防汗渍效果比后者好，而且防透性、抗紫外性和遮热性也都比后者好。
(2)由实施例3和实施例7可知，同等条件下，由含有二氧化钛粒子的高防透短纤维形成的短纤纱与由含有碳酸钙粒子的高防透短纤维形成的短纤纱相比，前者所得面料的反射率差的绝对值比后者低，也就是说前者所得面料的防汗渍效果比后者好，而且前者所得面料的防透性、抗紫外性和遮热性也都比后者好。
(3)由实施例3和实施例9可知，同等条件下，由含有锐钛型二氧化钛粒子的高防透短纤维形成的短纤纱与由含有金红石型二氧化钛粒子的高防透短纤维形成的短纤纱相比，前者所得面料的反射率差的绝对值比后者低，也就是说前者所得面料的防汗渍效果比后者好，而且前者所得面料的防透性、抗紫外性和遮热性也都比后者好。
(4)由实施例8和实施例13可知，同等条件下，由具有7层断面结构的高防透短纤维形成的短纤纱和由具有12层断面结构的高防透短纤维形成的短纤纱相比，前者所得面料的反射率差的绝对值比后者低，也就是说前者所得面料的防汗渍效果比后者好，而且前者所得面料的防透性、抗紫外性和遮热性也都比后者好。
(5)由比较例1和实施例1可知，同等条件下，由二氧化钛粒子含量 为0.3wt％的短纤维形成的短纤纱与由二氧化钛粒子含量为12.1wt％的短纤维形成的短纤纱相比，前者所得面料的反射率差的绝对值很高，也就是说前者的面料的防汗渍效果很差，而且前者所得面料的防透性、抗紫外性和遮热性也很差。
(6)由比较例2和实施例1可知，同等条件下，由二氧化钛粒子含量为2.6wt％的短纤维形成的短纤纱与二氧化钛粒子含量为12.1wt％的短纤维形成的短纤纱相比，前者所得面料的反射率差的绝对值很高，也就是说前者的面料的防汗渍效果很差，而且前者所得面料的防透性、抗紫外性和遮热性也很差。
(7)由比较例3和实施例12可知，同等条件下，高防透短纤维的混率为41wt％的短纤纱和高防透短纤维的混率为35wt％的短纤纱相比，前者所得面料的反射率差的绝对值很高，也就是说前者的面料的防汗渍效果很差，而且前者所得面料的防透性、抗紫外性和遮热性也很差。

Claims (8)

  1. 一种短纤纱，由40wt％以上的高防透短纤维构成，其特征是：所述高防透短纤维为无机粒子含量7.0～30.0wt％的短纤维。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的短纤纱，其特征是：所述短纤纱为均一的混纺纱，所述短纤纱的截面上四个象限里，每个象限中所述高防透短纤维的混率的标准偏差在10以内。
  3. 根据权利要求1所述的短纤纱，其特征是：所述高防透短纤维中的无机粒子为二氧化钛、碳酸钙和氧化锌的一种或更多种。
  4. 根据权利要求1所述的短纤纱，其特征是：所述高防透短纤维为聚酯类或聚酰胺类。
  5. 根据权利要求1～4中任一项所述的短纤纱，其特征是：所述高防透短纤维为具有芯鞘型断面结构的复合纤维或者为具有3层以上多层断面结构的复合纤维。
  6. 根据权利要求5所述的短纤纱，其特征是：所述高防透短纤维为具有3层～15层的多层断面结构的复合纤维。
  7. 一种含有权利要求1～6中任一项所述的短纤纱的面料。
  8. 根据权利要求7所述的面料，其特征是：所述面料在干湿状态下的可视光反射率差的绝对值在7％以下。
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