WO2021073442A1 - Procédé de production industrielle de fil élastomère, et tissu associé - Google Patents

Procédé de production industrielle de fil élastomère, et tissu associé Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021073442A1
WO2021073442A1 PCT/CN2020/119868 CN2020119868W WO2021073442A1 WO 2021073442 A1 WO2021073442 A1 WO 2021073442A1 CN 2020119868 W CN2020119868 W CN 2020119868W WO 2021073442 A1 WO2021073442 A1 WO 2021073442A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
yarn
draft
stretch yarn
stretch
filament
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/CN2020/119868
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Amrin SACHATHEP
Original Assignee
Atlantic Mills Hk Limited
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Atlantic Mills Hk Limited filed Critical Atlantic Mills Hk Limited
Priority to EP20877347.3A priority Critical patent/EP3906332A4/fr
Priority to CN202080005809.7A priority patent/CN113068405A/zh
Priority to US17/309,413 priority patent/US20220034005A1/en
Publication of WO2021073442A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021073442A1/fr

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/324—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic using a drawing frame
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/328—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic containing elastane
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/41—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with specific twist
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02—Cotton
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
    • D10B2201/24—Viscose
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02—Wool
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D10B2321/08—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids or unsaturated organic esters, e.g. polyacrylic esters, polyvinyl acetate
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to elastomeric yarns and fabrics, and a method of producing the same.
  • ⁇ Elastomer any polymer having high extensibility together with rapid and substantially complete elastic recovery.
  • Elastomeric Filament a filament formed from elastomer, for example elastane or elastodiene.
  • ⁇ Filament a fiber of indefinite length.
  • ⁇ Roving a name given, individually or collectively, to the relatively fine fibrous strands used in the later of final processes of preparation of spinning.
  • Stretch yarn capable of a pronounced degree of stretch and recovery from stretch.
  • Shrinkage reduction in length (or width) of a fiber, yarn, fabric or other textile, induced by conditioning, wetting, steaming, chemical treatment, wet processing as in laundering, dry heat or mechanical action.
  • ⁇ Fabric Growth is calculated from the length difference between the bench marks prior to application of the tension and after relaxation.
  • Twist Multiplier means in a yarn, the product of twist level and is the same as Twist per inch divided by square root of Ne.
  • Conventional yarn is a product of substantial length and relatively small cross-section consisting of fibers and/or filament (s) with or without twist.
  • the choice of fibers and the specification on the yarn determines the qualities and the characteristics of the fabric.
  • more and more consumers are concentrating to find some products with functional properties like thermal resistance, easy-care, easy dry, UV protection, etc. The last but not the least is body-fit products which have good stretch and recovery.
  • US Patents No. 3,671,379, 6,782,923 and 7,143,790 disclose the way of making woven stretch fabric by comprising those bare polyester filaments said bi-component polyester filament.
  • the invention is limited on the stretch, in general, in the range from 15-25%but not limited and have synthetic feel although the recovery is acceptable. Only limited use in weft of the denim without over dyed and cannot use in piece dyed unless do the two parts dyed. In this case, the cost is higher and the stretch properties are also affected.
  • US Patents No. 7,299,828 and 7,637,091 disclose that core spun yarn with bi-component polyester comprising poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate) or poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and poly (tetramethylene terephthalate) or poly (trimethylene terephthalate) and poly (trimethylene terephthalate) can improve the synthetic feel with a natural fiber look. However, its stretch is affected and much worse than bare bi-component polyester.
  • the objective of the present invention is to make ring spun yarn by using different drafts on the core elastomeric filaments in the ring spun yarn and by which, not limited, to improve the mechanical to get the good shrinkage, good recovery and stretch.
  • the present invention is a ring spun yarn with at least two elastomeric filament with at least two different main drafts.
  • the main draft in individual filament is the average of variable draft used. In one embodiment, said filament ranges from 20 deniers to 500 deniers.
  • the present invention comprises two fibrous sheath and said, are those short staple fibers can be natural or synthetic fibers like cotton, rayon, polyester, wool, acrylic and a combination thereof. And have no restriction same as the normal ring spun yarn.
  • the yarn count of present invention has no limitation, preferably ranging from English Cotton yarn count from about Ne 4 to Ne 60.
  • the present invention also has an objective to use this composite yarn is in denim and piece dyed fabric and not limited to knit fabric as well as sweater.
  • Figure 1 depicts the side view of the apparatus for the present invention of normal ring spinning machine.
  • Figure 2 depicts the side view of the apparatus for the present invention of using two elastomeric filaments with different drafts with two roving.
  • Figure 3 depicts the view of position of the elastomeric filaments in the yarn with variable draft in the same yarn.
  • Figure 4 depicts the view of position of the elastomeric filament in the yarn if the draft is the same.
  • Figure 5 depicts the side view of the apparatus for the present invention of using three elastomeric filaments with different drafts with three roving.
  • Figure 6 depicts the view of position of three elastomeric filaments in the yarn with variable draft.
  • the objective of the present invention is to find a way to produce a ring spun yarn by using elastomeric filament (not limited to spandex and other elastomers also applicable) to achieve good elongation, good recovery and less shrinkage without affecting other physical properties both in yarn and in fabric.
  • the present yarn is suitable for denim, piece dyed, circular knit and sweater as well.
  • the present invention is a ring spun yarn comprising at least two elastomeric filaments (not limited to spandex and other elastomers also applicable) with at least two different mean drafts. And said the filament ranges from 20 deniers to 500 deniers wherein the draft of the filaments ranges from 1.05 to 5.
  • the yarn count of the ring spun yarn has no limitation and said ranges from Ne 4 to 60 preferable.
  • spinning is the final stage of processing that produces a continuous twisted strand of fibers which has received its final attenuation.
  • Figure 1 it shows the skills in the art.
  • the main sections include material [A] , drafting [B] and twisting [C] as in Figure 1.
  • the material used in [A] is those natural or synthetics staple fibers, not limited to cotton, rayon, polyester, wool, acrylic, etc. or a combination thereof. It consists of two roving with the same material or two different materials.
  • aprons are mounted with the middle rolls 42.
  • the speed ratio of each pair of roll is so adjusted that the fibers 10 are delivered through a trumpet 61 from a slowly moving pair of rolls 43 towards a rapidly moving pair of rolls 41.
  • the final yarn count depends on the yarn count of the material 10 and the ratio of the linear speed between these pair of rolls 41, 43 for those normal yarns.
  • the strength of the yarn depends on the material and the twist added in the twisting section [C] .
  • the present invention of this stretch yarn is produced by inserting at least two elastomeric filaments into the core of the fibers sheath of the described ring spun yarn.
  • the apparatus [D] is shown in Figure 2.
  • the material of these two types of elastomeric filaments 21, 31 can be the same or with different material, like those spandex or elastomer or a combination thereof.
  • the draft is one of the most important related factors in the present invention.
  • the elastomeric filaments 21 are unwound from the rollers 22, 23 whereas elastomeric filaments 31 are unwound from the rollers 32, 33.
  • the draft on the elastomeric filament 21 is controlled by the ratio of the surface speed of front roller 41 and roller 23 whereas the draft on the elastomeric filament 31 is controlled by the ratio of the surface speed of front roller 41 and the roller 33.
  • the mean drafts of these filaments are ranging from 1.05 to 5.
  • the elastomeric filament is positioned in the left to center of the fibrous sheath but not limited.
  • the ratio of the surface speed of the front roller 41 and roller 23, and the surface speed of roller 41 and roller 33 are controlled by program throughout the spinning process.
  • the variables are denoted as:
  • variable drafts In practical, the difference of those variable drafts is ⁇ 50%amongst individual mean draft, but not limited.
  • elastomeric filaments 21, 31, 51 can be the same or with different material but at least two of them are elastomeric filaments (spandex) and the other one can be those polyester, nylon, PE synthetic filaments, not limited to elastic or inelastic or a combination thereof.
  • elastomeric filaments spandex
  • the filament 21 is unwound from the rollers 22, 23 whereas filament 31 is unwound from the rollers 32, 33 and filament 51 is unwound from the rollers 52, 53.
  • the draft on the filament 21 is controlled by the ratio of the surface speed of front rollers 41 and roller 23 whereas the draft on the filament 31 is controlled by the ratio of the surface speed of front roller 41 and the roller 33 and the same.
  • the draft on the filament 51 is controlled by the surface speed of front roller 41 and roller 53.
  • the mean drafts of these filaments are ranging from 1.05 to 5.
  • the elastomeric filament is positioned in the left to center of the fibrous sheath but not limited.
  • the ratio of the surface speed of the front roller 41 and roller 23, the surface speed of roller 41 and roller 33, and the surface speed of roller 41 and roller 53 are controlled by program.
  • the variables are denoted as:
  • variable drafts In practice, the difference of those variable drafts is ⁇ 50%amongst individual mean draft, but not limited.
  • variable draft should be as
  • a denim stretch fabric, construction 3/1 RHT, with 100%cotton Ne 10 in the warp and with Ne16 Stretch yarn in accordance with the present invention is with cotton fibrous sheath and core with two 40D denier. Both of the average draft is with 3.5.
  • a denim stretch fabric, construction 3/1 RHT, with 100%cotton Ne 8 in the warp and with Ne16 Stretch yarn in accordance with the present invention is with cotton fibrous sheath and core with two 40D denier. Both of the average draft is with 3.8. We can see the sample had weight 11.9 oz/sq. yd. (after washed) , good stretch (36.26%) , good shrinkage (-11%) and acceptable growth (4.9 %) .
  • a denim stretch fabric, construction 3/1 RHT, with 100%cotton Ne10 slub in the warp and with Ne16 Stretch yarn in accordance with the present invention is with cotton fibrous sheath and core with two 40D denier with less pick, said 48.Both of the average draft is with 3.5.
  • the invention in the weft yarn is with cotton fibrous sheath and core with two 40D denier. Both of the average draft is with 3.8. We can see the sample had weight 11.8 oz/sq. yd. (after washed) , good stretch (31.33%) , good shrinkage (-8%) and growth (3.2 %) .
  • the invention in the weft yarn is with cotton fibrous sheath and core with two 40D denier. Both of the average draft is with 3.8. We can see the sample had weight 11.8 oz/sq. yd. (after washed) and have a higher stretch (65.2%) at good shrinkage (-13%) and acceptable growth (6.73 %) .
  • the invention in the weft yarn is with cotton fibrous sheath and core with two 40D denier. Both of the average draft is with 3.8. We can see the sample had weight 12.2 oz/sq. yd. (after washed) , good stretch (34.4%) , good shrinkage (-9%) and growth (3.06 %) .
  • the invention in the weft yarn is with cotton fibrous sheath and core with two 40D denier. Both of the average draft is with 3.8.
  • the invention in the weft yarn is with cotton fibrous sheath and core with two rubber threads. Both of the average draft is with 3.2. We can see the sample had weight 13 oz/sq. yd. (after washed) , good stretch (55.4%) , good shrinkage (-9%) and growth (5 %) .

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne la fabrication d'un fil extensible au moyen d'au moins deux stratifils et deux filaments élastomères à tirage variable pour permettre au fil fabriqué dans le tissu de présenter une bonne extensibilité, une bonne récupération et un bon rétrécissement. La présente invention peut être appliquée à tous types de matériaux de fibres et n'est pas limitée en nombre de fils. Le fil selon l'invention est tissé pour être transformé en tissus présentant d'excellentes caractéristiques d'étirement et performances fonctionnelles, pour une application commerciale.
PCT/CN2020/119868 2019-10-16 2020-10-08 Procédé de production industrielle de fil élastomère, et tissu associé WO2021073442A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP20877347.3A EP3906332A4 (fr) 2019-10-16 2020-10-08 Procédé de production industrielle de fil élastomère, et tissu associé
CN202080005809.7A CN113068405A (zh) 2019-10-16 2020-10-08 工业生产弹力纱线及其织物的方法
US17/309,413 US20220034005A1 (en) 2019-10-16 2020-10-08 Method of Industrial Producing Elastomeric Yarn and Fabric thereof

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
HK19131094A HK30008630A2 (fr) 2019-10-16 2019-10-16
HK19131094.5 2019-10-16

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2021073442A1 true WO2021073442A1 (fr) 2021-04-22

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US (1) US20220034005A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP3906332A4 (fr)
CN (1) CN113068405A (fr)
HK (1) HK30008630A2 (fr)
WO (1) WO2021073442A1 (fr)

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
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HK30008630A2 (fr) * 2019-10-16 2020-06-12
CN113403721A (zh) * 2021-07-22 2021-09-17 绍兴市柯桥区东纺纺织产业创新研究院 一种变弹性导电纱线及其制备方法

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US6782923B2 (en) 2001-11-13 2004-08-31 Invista North America, S.A.R.L. Weft-stretch woven fabric with high recovery
US7143790B2 (en) 2003-11-20 2006-12-05 Invista North America S.A.R.L. Warp-stretch woven fabrics comprising polyester bicomponent filaments
US7299828B2 (en) 2003-11-20 2007-11-27 Invista North America S.A R.L. Stretch woven fabrics including polyester bicomponent filaments
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US7637091B2 (en) 2005-02-11 2009-12-29 Invista North America S.á.r.l. Stretch woven fabrics
CN102102248A (zh) * 2011-03-02 2011-06-22 山东南山纺织服饰有限公司 一种集成纺纺纱方法
US8093160B2 (en) 2007-04-17 2012-01-10 Cone Denim Llc Core-spun elastic composite yarns having a filamentary core and ring-spun staple fiber sheath, and denim fabrics which include the same
WO2014113207A1 (fr) 2013-01-16 2014-07-24 Invista Technologies S.A.R.L. Fils extensibles et tissus ayant de multiples fils élastiques
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CN101492843A (zh) * 2008-12-31 2009-07-29 武汉科技学院 一种嵌入式***定位纺纱方法
CN102102248A (zh) * 2011-03-02 2011-06-22 山东南山纺织服饰有限公司 一种集成纺纺纱方法
WO2014113207A1 (fr) 2013-01-16 2014-07-24 Invista Technologies S.A.R.L. Fils extensibles et tissus ayant de multiples fils élastiques
CN104278387A (zh) * 2013-07-10 2015-01-14 香港大中贸易有限公司 新型多组分弹性纱线、纺织织物及其制备方法和装置
CN105378166A (zh) * 2013-09-09 2016-03-02 天虹纺织集团有限公司 包芯弹性复合纱及其机织织物
EP3061856A1 (fr) 2015-02-24 2016-08-31 Calik Denim Tekstil San. Ve Tic. A.S. Âme filamentaire pour un fil élastique, fil élastique composite, tissu textile et appareil et procédé de fabrication de ce fil élastique
CN106958057A (zh) * 2015-11-11 2017-07-18 里特机械公司 用于生产弹性芯纱线的方法和装置
HK30008630A2 (fr) * 2019-10-16 2020-06-12

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Title
See also references of EP3906332A4

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CN113068405A (zh) 2021-07-02
EP3906332A4 (fr) 2022-03-23
EP3906332A1 (fr) 2021-11-10
HK30008630A2 (fr) 2020-06-12
US20220034005A1 (en) 2022-02-03

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