WO2004072344A1 - ニットウェアおよび、ニットウェアの編成方法 - Google Patents
ニットウェアおよび、ニットウェアの編成方法 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2004072344A1 WO2004072344A1 PCT/JP2004/000968 JP2004000968W WO2004072344A1 WO 2004072344 A1 WO2004072344 A1 WO 2004072344A1 JP 2004000968 W JP2004000968 W JP 2004000968W WO 2004072344 A1 WO2004072344 A1 WO 2004072344A1
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- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- knitting
- sleeve
- sleeves
- line
- joined
- Prior art date
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D1/00—Garments
- A41D1/04—Vests, jerseys, sweaters or the like
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
- A41D27/10—Sleeves; Armholes
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
- D04B1/108—Gussets, e.g. pouches or heel or toe portions
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
- D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
- D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
- D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards
Definitions
- the present invention relates to nitwear having sleeves and a method of knitting nitwear having sleeves.
- the present invention provides nitwear having an unprecedented sleeved shape and a knitting method therefor.
- Patent Document 1 Japanese Patent Publication No. 4-153001
- Patent Document 2 Japanese Patent Laid-Open Publication No. Hei 11-161603
- the set-in sleeve includes a sleeve around the hem, side, and upper end of the side, and a garment. It is knitted so that it has a shoulder line portion along the shoulder line when it is worn.
- the sleeve portion has a linear portion extending in the same direction as the side, and a shoulder line portion is formed from the upper end of the linear portion toward the neck. After joining the sleeves along the armholes of the front and rear bodies, the shoulder lines of the front and rear bodies are joined together.
- the raglan sleeve is formed by straightening the front and rear bodies from the hem, the side, and the upper end of the side to the neck. It is knitted so as to have an inclined line portion formed by being inclined at an angle. The sleeves are knitted so as to cover the arms and shoulders when wearing the garment, and are joined to the slant line of the body. It forms part of the neck at the end.
- the length of the slant line of the raglan sleeve is longer than the length of the sleeve under the set-in sleeve. Therefore, the length of the joint portion of the sleeve joined to the raglan sleeve side is also longer than the length of the joint portion of the sleeve joined to the set-in sleeve side.
- the length of the joint between the body and the sleeve differs between the set-in sleeve and the raglan sleeve. Therefore, if the front body and the back body are knitted in parallel with the same number of courses, the shape of one body is set into sleeves, and the shape of the other body is raglan sleeves, Due to the difference, a problem arises in that the body on the lug lance side and the sleeve cannot be joined well.
- the ratio between the number of body knitting courses and the number of sleeve knitting courses when joining the body and the sleeve is generally two-to-one knitting.
- the ratio of the number of body knitting courses and the number of sleeve knitting courses when joining the body and sleeves is In many cases, they are organized one-on-one.
- the ratio of the number of body knitting courses to the number of sleeve knitting courses for the front and rear bodies is 2: 1.
- the lugs run together at the joints on the body on the run sleeve side.
- the number of knitting courses of the back body is determined irrespective of the number of knitting courses of the front body, the number of knitting courses of the back body is larger than the number of knitting courses of the front body, and the back body is loose. .
- the present invention has been developed in view of the above circumstances, and an object of the present invention is to provide a non-sewn nitwear in which a set sleeve and a raglan sleeve are mixed, and a method of knitting the nitwear.
- the nitwear of the present invention is seamless nitwear in which a set-in sleeve and a raglan sleeve are mixed.
- the nitwear of the present invention includes a body and sleeves, and one of the front body and the back body has a sleeve portion and a shoulder line portion along a shoulder line when the nitwear is attached, and the other body. Has an inclined line extending from the neckline to the side of the body ing.
- the front body and the back body are knitted in a tubular shape with no sewing, the sleeves are knitted in a tubular shape with no sewing, and the sleeves are sewn on the front and back body, the shoulder line part, and the inclined line part
- the neck is formed by a part of the sleeve.
- the number of knitting courses on the front and rear body while the sleeves are joined to the armholes on the body is smaller than the number of knitting courses on the body on the shoulder line side. ing.
- the number of knitting courses for the body on the inclined line side is calculated as the number of knitting courses for the body on the shoulder line side. More organized.
- the part of the sleeve that is to be joined to the shoulder line is joined while being knitted with the number of knitting courses that will not be pulled when joining the shoulder line. Furthermore, when the joint course ratio of the sleeve and the body on the side of the inclined line to the number of knitting courses matches the joint start and end positions of the sleeve and the body on the side of the inclined line, the sleeve and the inclined line The sleeve and the body are joined so that the ratio of the joint with the body on the side does not cause slack.
- the shoulder line when wearing garments is based on the wearer wearing garments.
- a body that has a sleeve portion and a shoulder line along the shoulder line when wearing garment is a so-called set-in sleeve body.
- the body on the side of the set-in sleeve is knitted so as to have a hem portion, side portions, a sleeve portion formed from the upper end portions of the side portions, and a shoulder line portion along the shoulder line when the garment is attached.
- the sleeve portion has a straight portion extending in the same direction as the side, and a shoulder line portion is formed from the upper end of the straight portion toward the neck.
- the shoulder line is parallel to the hem of the body and orthogonal to the straight part of the armhole It may be formed so as to be inclined, or may be formed so as to be inclined with respect to the skirt so as to form a shoulder drop.
- a body having an inclined line extending from the neckline to the side of the body is a body for a raglan sleeve.
- the body on the raglan sleeve side is knitted so as to have a hem portion, side portions, and an inclined line portion formed by inclining almost linearly from the upper end of the side portion toward the collar.
- the knitting part of the part of the sleeve that is joined to the body includes a joint part that is joined to the sleeve part and a shoulder line part that is continuous with the joint part and is joined to the shoulder line part.
- one body is formed so that the position of the shoulder line portion is located below the shoulder line when the garment is worn.
- the knitting portion of the sleeve at the joint with the body is formed as follows when the sleeve is divided into half of the front body side and half of the back body side.
- the knitting part of the sleeve on the side joined to the shoulder line part is formed continuously with a trapezoidal knitting part having the armhole part joining part, and above the trapezoidal knitting part, and the shoulder line part joining part is formed.
- the knitting portion of the sleeve on the side joined to the inclined line portion has a triangular knitting portion joined to the inclined line portion.
- the trapezoidal knitting part and the rectangular knitting part are knitted continuously with the triangular knitting part.
- the number of knitting courses before and after the body is joined to the body under the sleeve and the number of knitting courses before and after the body is joined to the shoulder line of the body, The number of knitting courses on the shoulder line side is reduced when joining to the armhole, and the number of knitting courses on the shoulder side is increased when joining to the shoulder line.
- the sleeve is joined while knitting the part of the sleeve that is joined to the shoulder line with the number of knitting courses that does not pull in when joining the shoulder line. Then, the joint cost ratio to the number of knitting courses of the sleeve and the body on the inclined line portion side is determined. The sleeve and the body will be joined as a ratio that does not cause slack in the joint with the body on the inclined line side.
- the number of knitting courses required to join the sleeve to the shoulder line is determined according to the length of the shoulder line.
- the total number of knitting courses from the start to the end of the joining of the sleeve and the body in the front and back bodies is also obtained from the shape of the front and back bodies.
- the number of courses that have been knitted up to that point in the third step described below is subtracted from the total number of knitting courses, so that the number of remaining knitting courses to be knitted in the fourth step described below Is calculated.
- the joining start position and joining end position of the sleeve and the body on the inclined line side are determined based on the calculated number of remaining knitting courses of the body and the number of knitting courses of the sleeve.
- the joint ratio between the number of knitting courses of the sleeve and the number of knitting courses of the body on the inclined line side is determined so that they match and the joint between the sleeve and the body on the inclined line side does not slack. Since the knitwear is knitted in this manner, the knitwear of the present invention is a non-sewn knitwear in which a set-in sleeve and a raglan sleeve are mixed, but no looseness occurs on one body.
- the present invention also provides a knitwear knitting method described below so that knitwear with sleeves in which a set-in sleeve and a lug lance are mixed can be knitted without performing a manufacturing operation.
- the knitting method according to the present invention has at least one pair of front and rear needle beds extending in the left-right direction and facing each other in the front-rear direction, at least one of the front and rear needle beds can be racked left and right, and the front and rear needle beds
- This is a method for knitting nitwear having sleeves formed by using a flat knitting machine capable of transferring stitches between stitches. Then, on either the front body or the back body, a sleeve part and a shoulder line part along the shoulder line when wearing garment are formed, and the other body extends from the neckline to the body side part inclining
- the method is characterized by including the following steps for forming the inclined line portion.
- the number of knitting courses for the body with the shoulder line is greater than the number of knitting courses for the body with the inclined line, and the sleeves are knitted.
- the third step is to join the sleeves to the armholes and the sloped line while doing so.
- the knitting of the body with the inclined line part is knitted with a larger number of knitting courses than the knitting of the body with the shoulder line part, and the sleeve at the part to be joined with the shoulder line part is joined when joining the shoulder line part.
- the joint course ratio to the number of knitting courses for the sleeves and the body on the inclined line side, and when the joint start position and joint end position of the sleeve and the body on the inclined line side are matched,
- the fourth step in which the sleeves are knitted and the sleeves are joined to the shoulder lines and the inclined lines as a ratio at which there is no slack in the joint between the sleeves and the body on the inclined line side.
- the tubular knitting of the front body and the back body and the tubular knitting of the sleeve are performed in parallel.
- the body and the sleeve are joined while knitting the front and rear body and the sleeve while reducing the number of eyes.
- the body having the shoulder line portion is knitted with the stitch ( ⁇ ale) of the portion where the sleeve portion is formed being the same.
- the sleeve knitting portion (the trapezoidal knitting portion) on the side to be joined to the sleeve portion is knitted while reducing the number of stitches, and the sleeve is joined to the sleeve portion.
- the body with the inclined line is knitted while reducing the number of stitches on the joint side with the sleeve for each predetermined course.
- the sleeve knitting part (the triangular knitting part) on the side joined to the inclined line part of the sleeve is also reduced so that the number of times the stitches are reduced more than the inclined line part side is increased.
- knitting is preferably performed such that the ratio of the number of knitting courses of the body having the shoulder line portion to the number of knitting courses of the body having the inclined line portion is, for example, 2: 1.
- the knitting may be performed such that the ratio of the number of courses is different and the same ratio (for example, 2: 1 and 1: 1) is alternately repeated.
- the third step knitting is performed so that the ratio of the number of knitting courses of the body having the shoulder line portion to the number of knitting courses of the body having the inclined line portion and the number of knitting courses of the sleeve is 4: 3: 2. preferable.
- the number of knitting courses on the side of the slant line is smaller than the number of knitting courses on the side of the sleeve under the side, so that even if the body and the sleeve are joined, no looseness occurs on one side.
- the body is knitted so that the shoulder line portion is formed while reducing the stitches on the joint side with the sleeve, and If not, leave the eyes on the knitting needle without knitting.
- the knitting part (the rectangular knitting part) on the side joined to the shoulder line part of the sleeve is knitted in a rectangular shape with the same stitch ( ⁇ ale) and joined to the shoulder line part.
- the body having the inclined line portion is knitted while reducing the number of stitches on the joint side with the sleeve for each predetermined course.
- the sleeve knitting part (the triangular knitting part) on the side to be joined to the inclined line part of the sleeve is also reduced so that the number of stitches is reduced more than that on the inclined line part side.
- the fourth step knitting is preferably performed such that the ratio of the number of knitting courses of the body having the shoulder line portion to the number of knitting courses of the body having the inclined line portion is, for example, 1: 2.
- the ratio of the number of courses may be different so that the same ratio (for example, 1 to 2 and 1 to 1) is alternately repeated.
- the number of knitting courses of the body having the shoulder line portion is zero, and only the body having the inclined line portion is knitted.
- the knitting of the sleeves is performed while the knitting of the body having the inclined line portion is performed.
- the sleeves at the portion to be joined to the shoulder line portion are joined while knitting with the number of knitting courses that do not pull when joining the shoulder line portion. And the number of knitting courses on the sleeve and the body on the side of the inclined line.
- the ratio of the joint between the sleeve and the body on the side of the inclined line does not sag.
- the sleeve and the body on the side of the sloping line are joined so as to achieve the desired condition.
- the number of knitting courses required to join the sleeve to the shoulder line part is determined according to the length of the shoulder line, and the joining of the sleeve and the body in the front and back body is started The total number of knitting courses from the start to the end of joining is also determined from the shape of the front and rear body.
- the number of remaining knitting courses to be knitted in the fourth step is calculated by subtracting the number of courses knitted in the third step from the total number of knitting courses. Can be done.
- the ratio of joining the number of knitting courses of the sleeve and the number of knitting courses of the body on the inclined line side is determined. decide. This ratio is set so that the joint start position and the joint end position of the sleeve and the body on the side of the inclined line coincide with each other, and that the joint between the sleeve and the body on the side of the inclined line is slack. The sleeve and body are joined at this ratio.
- the number of body knitting courses on the inclined line side is smaller than the body on the shoulder line side.
- the fourth step by increasing the number of body knitting courses on the inclined line side, The difference in the number of stitches on the front and back can be eliminated.
- the set-in sleeve can be formed on the front body and the raglan sleeve can be formed on the back body, or the raglan sleeve can be formed on the front body and the set-in sleeve can be formed on the back body. It can also be knitted to form.
- the number of knitting courses on the inclined line side is smaller than the number of knitting courses on the side of the sleeve by the third step. Can be prevented from becoming loose.
- the number of knitting courses on the body on the inclined line side is smaller than that on the shoulder line side, so in the fourth step, the number of knitting courses on the body on the inclined line side is increased. By knitting, it is possible to eliminate the difference in the number of stitches on the front and back body.
- the sleeves at the portion to be joined to the shoulder line portion are joined while knitting with the number of knitting courses that are not pulled when joining the shoulder line portion, and the sleeve and the inclined line side are joined together.
- the joint course ratio to the number of knitting courses on the body is equal to the joint of the sleeve and the body on the inclined line part.
- the sleeve is joined to the shoulder line part and the inclined line part while knitting the sleeve, so even if the body and the sleeve are joined, there is looseness on one body and tight on the other Can be prevented.
- non-sewn nitwear in which a set-in sleeve and a raglan sleeve are mixed is placed on one body.
- the knitting can be performed without occurrence of flutter.
- FIG. 1 shows an embodiment of nitwear according to the present invention, showing a front view (a) of a sailboat viewed from the front body side and a rear view (b) viewed from the back body side.
- FIG. 2 is an embodiment of the nitwear according to the present invention, and shows a state in which each part constituting each piece is knitted on a flat knitting machine.
- FIG. 3 is an embodiment of the nitwear according to the present invention, and shows a partially enlarged view of each part at a joint portion between a front and rear body and a sleeve.
- FIG. 4 shows a knitting process diagram of the third step of the knitwear knitting method of the present invention.
- FIG. 5 shows a knitting process diagram of a fourth step of the knitwear knitting method of the present invention.
- the present embodiment has a pair of front and rear needle beds extending in the left-right direction and facing each other in the front-rear direction, the rear needle beds can be racked left and right, and the stitch transfer between the front and rear needle beds is possible. Knitwear is knitted using a possible so-called two-bed flat knitting machine.
- a two-bed flat knitting machine knits using every other needle on each of the front and rear needle beds.
- the odd-numbered needles on the front needle bed are mainly used for knitting the knitted fabric of the front part of the garment such as the front body and the front of the sleeve
- the even-numbered needles on the rear needle bed are mainly used for the back body and sleeves. Used to knit the rear part of the nitwear such as the rear.
- the needles of the other needle bed opposite to the needles used for knitting of one needle bed are empty needles, and these empty needles are used for transferring or rib knitting. It has become.
- a knitted fabric may be knitted by providing a transfer jack bed in which transfer jacks are arranged above one or both of the front and rear needle beds. .
- the knitwear is knitted using a two-bed flat knitting machine.
- the present invention provides an upper front needle bed, a lower front needle bed, an upper rear needle bed, and a lower bed. Knitting can also be performed using a 4-bed flat knitting machine with a rear needle bed.
- the front part of the knitted fabric is attached to the lower front needle bed, and the rear part of the knitted fabric is attached to the lower rear needle bed.
- the upper rear needle bed is used as an empty needle for knitting the knitted fabric of the front part, for transferring the knitted fabric of the front part
- the upper front needle bed is used for knitting the knitted fabric of the rear part. Used as a needle for transferring a knitted fabric in the rear part.
- FIGS. 4 and 5 An embodiment of the present invention will be described with reference to FIG. 1 to FIG.
- a triangle on the line indicating the knitting flow indicates a position where the body or the sleeve is to be reduced.
- each section 1 has a length having a V-neck collar. It is a sleeve type setter.
- the sweater 1 of this embodiment has a body 2, a left sleeve 3, a right sleeve 13, and a neckline 4.
- the front body 2a and the back body 2b are different in shape above the points A, a, G, and g, which are the sleeve joining start positions, in FIG.
- the front body 2a has a hem 21a, a side 22a, a sleeve 23, and a shoulder line 24.
- the front body 2a is a body for a so-called set-in sleeve.
- the armhole 23 is formed from the upper ends (positions A and a in FIG. 2) of the side parts 22a and 22b, and forms a straight line part (B-b-c in FIG. 2) extending in the same direction as the side.
- a shoulder line portion 24 is formed toward the neckline 4 from the upper end of this straight portion (position c in FIG. 2).
- the shoulder line portion 24 is formed along the shoulder line when the nitwear is attached.
- the shoulder line portion 24 is inclined downward from the neckline 4 by forming a shoulder drop knitting portion 25 on the shoulder portion of the front body 2a. Further, the front body 2a is formed such that the position of the shoulder line portion 24 is located below the shoulder line when the garment is worn.
- the rear body 2b is inclined from the hem 21b, the side 22b, and the neckline 4 (K and k positions in Fig. 2) to the side of the body (G and g positions in Fig. 2). And an inclined line portion 26 extending in the direction.
- the rear body 2b is the body for the so-called raglan sleeve.
- the knitted portions of the left and right sleeves 3 and 13 that are joined to the body 2 are, as shown in FIGS. 2 and 3, an armhole joint 31 that is joined to the armhole 23 and a shoulder line. It has a shoulder line joint 32 joined to the part 24, an inclined line joint 33 joined to the inclined line 26, and a neck forming part 34.
- the shoulder line joint 32 is formed continuously from the armhole joint 31. ing.
- the neck forming portion 34 is formed between the upper end portion of the inclined line portion joining portion 33 and the upper end portion of the shoulder line joining portion 32.
- the knitting portions of the left and right sleeves 3 and 13 at the joint with the body 1 are formed by a trapezoidal knitting portion 35 having an armhole joint 31 and a shoulder line joint 32. And a triangular knitting portion 37 having an inclined line portion joining portion 33.
- the rectangular knitting part 36 is continuously knitted above the trapezoidal knitting part 35, and the trapezoidal knitting part 35 and the rectangular knitting part 36 are knitted continuously with the triangular knitting part 37 in the lateral direction. I have.
- the rectangular knitting portion 36 becomes a neck forming portion 34 in which the upper end becomes a part of the neck when the joining with the shoulder line portion 24 is completed.
- the front body 2a and the back body 2b are knitted into a tubular shape without sewing, and the sleeves 3, 13 are knitted into a tubular shape without sewing.
- the sleeves 3 and 13 are joined to the armhole 23 and the shoulder line portion 24 of the front body 2a and the inclined line portion 26 of the back body 2b without sewing.
- the number of knitting courses for the front body 2 a and the back body 2 b while joining the sleeves 3 and 13 to the armhole 23 of the front body 2 a The number of knitting courses in 2b is smaller than the number of knitting courses in front body 2a.
- the number of knitting courses for the back body 2b is reduced to the knitting course for the front body 2a. It is organized more than the number.
- the terms representing the left and right sides of the body and sleeves for example, the right and left sides such as the left sleeve 3 and the right sleeve 13 and the shoulder line when the garment is worn are the wearer wearing the sweater 1 Is based on Next, a knitting procedure of the sweater 1 of the present embodiment will be described.
- the rear body 2b, the right sleeve rear 13b, and the left sleeve rear 3b are knitted mainly using the odd-numbered needles on the rear needle bed, and the front body 2a, the right sleeve front 13a, the left sleeve front.
- Section 3a is knitted primarily using the even-numbered needles on the front needle bed.
- the knitting structure of the front body 2a, back body 2b and sleeves 3 and 13 of the sweater 1 is plain knitted for convenience of explanation, and the hem of the body 2 and the cuffs of the sleeves 3 and 13 are ribbed.
- the front body 2a, the back body 2b, and the sleeves 3, 13 may be of a jacquard-rib type or the like.
- the knitting yarn is supplied to the respective needles for the front body knitting from the yarn feeders (not shown) prepared for the body knitting and the sleeve knitting respectively, and then the yarn feeding opening is reversed to be fed to the respective needles for the rear body knitting.
- the yarn feeding opening is reversed to be fed to the respective needles for the rear body knitting.
- the front body 2a and the back body 2b are knitted in a tubular shape from the hem to the joint start position (A, a, G, g) with the sleeve.
- the front left sleeve 3a and the rear left sleeve 3b are knitted in a tubular shape from the cuff to the joint start position (K, P) with the body.
- the front part 13a of the right sleeve and the rear part 13b of the right sleeve are knitted in a tubular shape from the cuff to the joint start position (k, p) with the body (first step).
- the hem and cuffs of the body are knitted with rubber.
- each point A, a of the front body 2a is joined to each point K, k of the left sleeve front part 3a and the right sleeve front part 13a, and each point G, g of the back body 2b is connected to the left sleeve rear. It is joined to each point P, p on 3b and right sleeve rear 13b.
- the left sleeve 3 and the right sleeve 13 start to be joined to the body 2, the body 1, the left sleeve 3 and the right sleeve 13 are integrated into one cylindrical body.
- the left sleeve 3 is knitted to L- and the right sleeve 13 is knitted to Q-.
- the front body 2a, back body 2b, and sleeves 3 and 13 each reduce the stitches at the joint.
- the number of knitting courses of the front body 2a is reduced by the number of knitting courses of the back body 2b from the sleeve hole 23 (B, b) and the shoulder line 24 starting position (C, c) after the second step.
- the sleeves 3 and 13 are joined to the armhole 23 and the inclined line 26 while knitting the sleeves 3 and 13 (third step).
- the knitting of the body 2 and the sleeves 3 and 13 is performed on the left side of the front body 2a, the front left sleeve 3a, the rear left sleeve 3b, the rear body 2b, and the right.
- FIG. 4 shows a state in which the neckline 4 has begun to be formed in the front body 2a.
- knitting of the pattern a and knitting of the pattern b are alternately repeated, or knitting is performed by repeating only the b pattern several times while repeating the a and b patterns.
- aThe pattern knitting is performed in the order of the right sleeve back 13b, back body 2b, left sleeve back 3b After knitting one course on the rear side, knit one course on the front part 3a of the left sleeve, knit the left half of the front body 2a by back knitting for a total of four courses, and knit one course on the front part 3a on the left sleeve.
- the left sleeve back 3b is knitted for one course
- the back body 2b is turned back and knitted three courses
- the right sleeve back 13b is knitted for one course.
- the right sleeve front part 13a is knitted for one course, and the right half of the front body 2a is knitted in a turn-back knitting for a total of four courses. Then, the right sleeve front part 13a is knitted for one course, and the pattern knitting is completed.
- the ratio of the number of knitting courses for the front body 2a and the back body 2b is 1: 1, and the ratio of knitting courses for the front body 2a and the front sleeves 3a and 13a is 2: 1.
- the ratio of the number of knitting courses of the rear sleeves 3b and 13b is 2: 1.
- the back side of the right sleeve 13b, the back body 2b, and the back side of the left sleeve 3b are knitted one course at the back side, then the front part 3a of the left sleeve is knitted one course, and the left half of the front body 2a is turned back and knitted.
- one course is formed for the front left sleeve 3a.
- back body 2b, right sleeve back 13b knit one course on right sleeve front 13a, and turn back the right half of front body 2a for a total of 4 knits.
- the right sleeve front part 13a is knitted one course and the b pattern knitting is completed.
- the ratio of the number of knitting courses for the front body 2a and the back body 2b is 2: 1
- the ratio of knitting courses for the front body 2a and the front sleeves 3a and 13a is 2: 1
- the ratio of the back body 2b is The ratio of the number of courses of the rear sleeves 3b and 13b is 1: 1.
- a sleeve 3 (13) is provided with a trapezoidal knitting portion 35 having an armhole connecting portion 31 and a triangular knitting portion 37 having an inclined line connecting portion 33. Some are organized. Furthermore, in the third step, the back body 2b and the sleeves 3 and 13 reduce the stitches at the joint end between the body and the sleeve. The stitches at the end of the front body 2a on the joint side between the body and the sleeve are knitted so as to have the same ale.
- the ratio of the number of knitting courses of the front body 2a and the front sleeve 3a, 13a is 2: 1 and the ratio of the knitting course of the back body 2b and the rear sleeve 3b, 13b is 3: 2
- the number of knitting courses of the back body 2b is smaller than the number of knitting courses of the front body 2a, even if the body 2 and the sleeves 3 and 13 are joined, there is no looseness in the back body 2b.
- the knitting of the back body 2b is knitted with a greater number of knitting costs than the knitting of the front body 2a, and the sleeve at the part joined to the shoulder line part is pulled when joining the shoulder line part. Joining while knitting with no knitting course number. Furthermore, the joint cost ratio of the sleeves 3, 13 and the back body 2b to the number of knitting courses, and the joint start position and the joint end position of the sleeves 3, 13 and the back body 2b are matched. The sleeves 3 and 13 are joined to the shoulder line portion 24 and the inclined line portion 26 while knitting the sleeves 3 and 13 as a ratio that does not cause sag at the joint portion between 13 and the back body 2b.
- the composition of the fourth step will be specifically described with reference to FIG. Also in FIG. 5, the thick line shows the back body 2b, the left sleeve back 3b, and the right sleeve back 13b, and the thin line shows the front body 2a, the left sleeve front 3a, and the right sleeve front 13a. Are shown.
- FIG. 5 shows a state where the shoulder drop knitting portion 25 has begun to be formed in the front body 2a.
- the knitting of the pattern c and the knitting of the pattern d are alternately repeated, or the d pattern alone is repeated several times during the repetition of the cd pattern.
- the ratio of the number of knitting courses for the front body 2a and the back body 2b is 1: 1, the ratio of knitting courses for the front body 2a and the knitting courses of the front sleeves 3a, 13a is 1: 2, and the ratio for the back body 2b is The ratio of the number of knitting courses for the rear sleeves 3b and 13b is 1: 2.
- one course is formed on the back side in the order of right sleeve back 13b, back body 2b, left sleeve back 3b, and then left sleeve front 3a is back-knitted for two courses.
- the right sleeve front 13a is turned back and knitted for two courses.
- the back side of the right sleeve 13b, the back body 2b, and the back side of the left sleeve 3b are knitted in one course, and then the left half of the front 3a of the left sleeve and the left half of the front body 2a are knitted. Turn back and knit the left half of the front body 2a and the front left sleeve 3a in one course.
- the back side is knitted one course, and then the right sleeve front part 13a and the right half of the front body 2a are knitted one course and turned back.
- the right half and the right sleeve front part 13a are knitted for one course, and the d pattern knitting is completed.
- the ratio of the number of knitting courses for the front body 2a and the back body 2b is 1: 2, and the ratio of knitting courses for the front body 2a and the front sleeve 3a, 13a
- the ratio of the number of knitting courses for the back body 2b and the rear sleeves 3b and 13b is 1: 1.
- a rectangular knitting portion 36 and a triangular knitting portion 37 continuously knitted above the trapezoidal knitting portion 35 are knitted on the sleeve 3 (13).
- the sleeves 3 and 13 join the shoulder line section 32 to the shoulder line section 24 and the inclined line section 33 to the inclined line section 26.
- a neck forming portion 34 is formed between the shoulder line joining portion 32 and the inclined line joining portion 33.
- the stitches on the joint side of the body and the sleeve are reduced for the shoulder drop knitting part 25 of the front body 2a, the back body 2b, and the rear parts 3b and 13b of the sleeves 3 and 13.
- the number of knitting courses required to join the sleeves 3 and 13 to the shoulder line portion 24 is determined according to the length of the shoulder line. For example, if the number of ales on the shoulder line section 24 is set to 20th, sleeves 3 and 13 are doubled to form 40 courses.
- the total number of knitting courses from the start to the end of the joining of the sleeve and the body in the front and rear bodies is also obtained from the shape of the front and rear bodies.
- the number of courses from the position of F, f of the front body 2a to D, d (for example, 6th and 4th) is the number of Yale between T, U or t, u of sleeves 3, 13 (
- the number of stitches obtained by adding (14 stitches) is the total number of formation courses (78 stitches).
- the number of courses knitted up to that point in the third step (eg, 48) is subtracted from the total number of knitting courses (78), so that knitting is performed in the fourth step.
- the number of remaining knitting courses (30th) should be calculated.
- the joining start position of the sleeves 3, 13 and the back body 2b is determined. And the joint end positions match, and sleeves 3 and 13
- the ratio of the knitting courses of the sleeves 3, 13 and the back body 2b is determined to be 4 to 3 so that the joint of the back body 2b does not sag. The sleeve and body are joined at this ratio.
- the number of knitting courses of the back body 2b is smaller than that of the front body 2a. The difference in the number of stitches from around 2a can be eliminated.
- the front needle bed has a front body 2a neckline (DEF-f-ed in Fig. 2) and a left-sleeve front 3a rectangular knitting part 36 a neckline formation part 34 (T-U in Fig. 2). Then, the stitches of the neck forming portion 34 (tu in FIG. 2) of the rectangular knitting portion 36 of the right sleeve front portion 13a are locked. In this state, the rubber knitting is knitted.
- the shoulder line portion 24 is formed so as to be inclined with respect to the hem portion so that the shoulder drop is formed by the shoulder drop knitting portion 25.
- the shoulder line portion may be formed parallel to the hem portion of the body without knitting the shoulder drop knitting portion, and may be formed so as to be orthogonal to the straight portion of the armhole portion. Industrial applicability
- the present invention is suitable for using a flat knitting machine to knit a seamless sewing knitwear in which a set-in sleeve and a raglan sleeve are mixed without causing looseness on one body.
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
- Knitting Machines (AREA)
- Details Of Garments (AREA)
Abstract
Description
Claims
Priority Applications (4)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
CN200480003131XA CN1813088B (zh) | 2003-02-14 | 2004-01-30 | 针织物及针织物的编织方法 |
US10/545,030 US7143613B2 (en) | 2003-02-14 | 2004-01-30 | Knitwear garment and method of knitting knitwear |
EP04706854.9A EP1605083B1 (en) | 2003-02-14 | 2004-01-30 | Method of knitting knitwear |
JP2005504942A JP4451845B2 (ja) | 2003-02-14 | 2004-01-30 | ニットウェアおよび、ニットウェアの編成方法 |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
JP2003037493 | 2003-02-14 | ||
JP2003-037493 | 2003-02-14 |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
WO2004072344A1 true WO2004072344A1 (ja) | 2004-08-26 |
Family
ID=32866362
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
PCT/JP2004/000968 WO2004072344A1 (ja) | 2003-02-14 | 2004-01-30 | ニットウェアおよび、ニットウェアの編成方法 |
Country Status (6)
Country | Link |
---|---|
US (1) | US7143613B2 (ja) |
EP (1) | EP1605083B1 (ja) |
JP (1) | JP4451845B2 (ja) |
KR (1) | KR100992063B1 (ja) |
CN (1) | CN1813088B (ja) |
WO (1) | WO2004072344A1 (ja) |
Families Citing this family (9)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JP4336298B2 (ja) * | 2004-12-09 | 2009-09-30 | 株式会社島精機製作所 | 編地の編成方法、編地を編成させるための編成プログラム |
KR101232701B1 (ko) * | 2005-06-01 | 2013-02-13 | 가부시키가이샤 시마세이키 세이사쿠쇼 | 몸통 통모양부에 트임부를 구비하는 니트웨어 및 그편성방법 |
US10520280B2 (en) * | 2007-07-16 | 2019-12-31 | Supreme Corporation | Cut, slash and/or abrasion resistant protective fabric and lightweight shaped knit garment made therefrom |
JP5955009B2 (ja) * | 2012-02-01 | 2016-07-20 | 株式会社島精機製作所 | ニットウェア |
CN110512343B (zh) * | 2019-09-23 | 2021-03-02 | 江南大学 | 一种全成形横向沿背中心分片编织方法及编织织物 |
CN112376155B (zh) * | 2020-10-26 | 2021-12-24 | 嘉兴市蒂维时装有限公司 | 一种全成型平肩式肩线前移的编织方法及其应用 |
KR102447515B1 (ko) * | 2021-03-12 | 2022-09-26 | 주식회사 아이디모드 | 소매의 시작편이 최소화될 수 있는 홀가먼트 편직방법 |
CN113846411B (zh) * | 2021-09-24 | 2023-01-31 | 嘉兴市蒂维时装有限公司 | 一种改善全成型马鞍肩袖笼结构的编织方法及针织物 |
CN114164550B (zh) * | 2022-01-09 | 2023-01-31 | 嘉兴市蒂维时装有限公司 | 一种改善全成型夹下双拼角外观效果的编织方法及针织物 |
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US3474647A (en) | 1965-09-10 | 1969-10-28 | Dandliker & Hotz Ag | Tanning apparatus |
US3474643A (en) * | 1966-06-07 | 1969-10-28 | Courtaulds Ltd | Knitting process |
GB2228750A (en) * | 1989-03-03 | 1990-09-05 | Shima Seiki Mfg | Knitting tubular fabric with fashion lines on a flat machine |
JPH1161603A (ja) | 1997-02-07 | 1999-03-05 | H Stoll Gmbh & Co | 2針床横編機上で袖を備えた衣類を製造する方法 |
US5987930A (en) * | 1997-02-17 | 1999-11-23 | Shima Seiki Manufacturing, Ltd. | Method of joining fabrics on a flat knitting machine |
WO2001063030A1 (fr) * | 2000-02-22 | 2001-08-30 | Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. | Procede de tricotage de l'encolure d'un vetement tricote |
WO2001064987A1 (fr) * | 2000-02-29 | 2001-09-07 | Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. | Procede de tricotage du col d'un vetement tricote au moyen d'un metier a tricoter trame et vetement tricote |
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DE69232234T2 (de) * | 1991-09-19 | 2002-06-13 | Shima Seiki Mfg. Ltd., Wakayama | Verfahren zum Stricken von nahtlosen Kleidungstücken an Flachstrickmaschinen |
TW446774B (en) * | 1998-08-28 | 2001-07-21 | Shima Seiki Mfg | Knitwear knitting method |
TW491917B (en) * | 2000-01-26 | 2002-06-21 | Shima Seiki Mfg | Method of knitting neck of knit wear by weft knitting machine and knit designing device for producing the method of knitting the neck |
TW538161B (en) | 2000-01-31 | 2003-06-21 | Shima Seiki Mfg | Knit wear knitting method |
US6658899B2 (en) * | 2000-02-29 | 2003-12-09 | Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. | Method of knitting neck of knit wear by weft knitting machine and the knit wear |
TW491918B (en) * | 2000-05-17 | 2002-06-21 | Shima Seiki Mfg | Method of joining knitted fabrics and joined knitted fabric |
DE60226131T2 (de) * | 2001-02-19 | 2008-07-17 | Shima Seiki Mfg. Ltd. | Strickverfahren |
CN100420781C (zh) * | 2001-10-05 | 2008-09-24 | 株式会社岛精机制作所 | 拼角的形成方法以及形成有拼角的针织物 |
EP1510606B1 (en) * | 2002-05-31 | 2013-05-15 | Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd | Method of knitting knitwear having front neck |
-
2004
- 2004-01-30 KR KR1020057013116A patent/KR100992063B1/ko not_active IP Right Cessation
- 2004-01-30 JP JP2005504942A patent/JP4451845B2/ja not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 2004-01-30 WO PCT/JP2004/000968 patent/WO2004072344A1/ja active Application Filing
- 2004-01-30 US US10/545,030 patent/US7143613B2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 2004-01-30 EP EP04706854.9A patent/EP1605083B1/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 2004-01-30 CN CN200480003131XA patent/CN1813088B/zh not_active Expired - Fee Related
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US3474647A (en) | 1965-09-10 | 1969-10-28 | Dandliker & Hotz Ag | Tanning apparatus |
US3474643A (en) * | 1966-06-07 | 1969-10-28 | Courtaulds Ltd | Knitting process |
GB2228750A (en) * | 1989-03-03 | 1990-09-05 | Shima Seiki Mfg | Knitting tubular fabric with fashion lines on a flat machine |
JPH0415301B2 (ja) | 1989-03-03 | 1992-03-17 | Shima Seiki Mfg | |
JPH1161603A (ja) | 1997-02-07 | 1999-03-05 | H Stoll Gmbh & Co | 2針床横編機上で袖を備えた衣類を製造する方法 |
US5916272A (en) * | 1997-02-07 | 1999-06-29 | H.Stoll Gmbh & Co. | Process for producing sleeved clothing articles on a two bed flat knitting machine |
US5987930A (en) * | 1997-02-17 | 1999-11-23 | Shima Seiki Manufacturing, Ltd. | Method of joining fabrics on a flat knitting machine |
WO2001063030A1 (fr) * | 2000-02-22 | 2001-08-30 | Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. | Procede de tricotage de l'encolure d'un vetement tricote |
WO2001064987A1 (fr) * | 2000-02-29 | 2001-09-07 | Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. | Procede de tricotage du col d'un vetement tricote au moyen d'un metier a tricoter trame et vetement tricote |
Non-Patent Citations (1)
Title |
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See also references of EP1605083A4 |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
CN1813088A (zh) | 2006-08-02 |
JPWO2004072344A1 (ja) | 2006-06-01 |
EP1605083A1 (en) | 2005-12-14 |
US20060107700A1 (en) | 2006-05-25 |
EP1605083A4 (en) | 2006-09-06 |
JP4451845B2 (ja) | 2010-04-14 |
CN1813088B (zh) | 2011-12-07 |
EP1605083B1 (en) | 2014-06-25 |
KR20050098869A (ko) | 2005-10-12 |
US7143613B2 (en) | 2006-12-05 |
KR100992063B1 (ko) | 2010-11-04 |
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