200307775 玖、發明說明： I：發明所屬之技術領域3 [發明之領域] 本發明係有關於一種缝紐扣機器，尤其是在依據布厚度藉 5 由拉緊針縫的深度而缝紐扣於布上之後，繞線在鈕扣及布之間 的缝線(頸線)的缝鈕扣機器。 [相關技藝之說明] 一習知鈕扣頸繞線缝紉機將配合第17及18圖說明如下。 10 此機器包括一舌1以及具有面對舌1的一支持板之一紐扣 支持單元4以及一钮扣失元件(紐扣夾頭)3。舌1(如第18(b)圖所 示）支持折疊在相對於一針5之前進路徑的鈕扣縫製位置上的一 布C。鈕扣夾頭3可以水平或垂直位置支持一鈕扣BU，支持單元 4連接可轉動地架設在一機器體上的一轉動轴6，且藉由與轴連 15 接的一空氣汽缸7之活塞動作而轉動。軸6之轉動允許鈕扣夾頭 3擺動。 備置此組合之機器的操作將說明如下。 當鈕扣BU縫至布C上時，鈕扣BU先置於以舌1支持之布C 以及支持板2上的水平位置（參看第18(a)，（b)圖）。當機器操作 20 時，針5上下交替地移動至扣眼Ba及擬缝扣之布C中，配合舌1， 支持板2及鈕扣夾頭3之同步動作，缝鈕扣BU至布上，形成在布 之紐扣間具有一預定間隔(頸高度）的單線鏈狀針缝。在此缝鈕 扣操作後’操作者轉動夾頭3成如第18(c)圖所示的直立位置， 使得夾頭3支持鈕扣於舌1前的垂直位置。當機器再開始操作 5 200307775 時，針5交替地落在鈕扣BU及布C之間的缝線Sa及Sb的兩側（以 下稱為頸線），如第19(a)及(b)圖所示，以形成'繞線〃 Sc，藉 由繞著頸以及舌1，支持板2和夾頭3的水平移動形成 '繞線"。 此扣頸之繞線的優點在於強化缝至布上鈕扣的強度，以阻止鈕 5 扣掉落，以及扣眼被線Sa及Sb撐大而影饗外觀，換言之，扣頸 繞線藉由擬拉直的繞線Sc可向内拉緊缝線Sa及Sb，以阻止扣眼 樓大。 該缝扣機器另備置一扣頸高度調整盤8。該盤8的調整可改 變鈕扣夾頭3之垂直位置以改變布及鈕扣間的距離。 10 然而，由於在此機器中的盤8可以手動方式調整，且無法 在缝扣過程中調整位置，在缝扣機中夾頭位置之高度無可避免 的幾乎與在繞頸過程中幾乎相同。因此，繞線Sc之線的張力直 接作動在頸線Sa及Sb上。由於此因素，若線Sc張力太小，線Sa 及Sb無法收縮，如第19(a)围所示，因而造成外觀之不良，且若 15 線以張力過大，布C會繞著布C上的缝點出現皺紋C1(即所謂的 凹陷）向上拉，因而失去美觀。即使適當的張力施加於線Sc上， 繞線集中在縫線Sa，Sb的中間部份，看起來像一個日本手鼓， 難看且會減少針缝之強度，而頸線的兩端會無法對齊。 曰本第2655749號專利案揭露一缝初機，其中頌高度及繞 20線高度均可調整以改良缝製外觀。尤其是，此鈕扣縫紉機除鈕 扣頸馬度調整盤之外，包括用以上升紐扣夾頭之高度位置的一 上推槓桿，用以羅動上推槓桿的一汽缸，以及用以調整紐扣夾 頭上升之高度位置。 就此構造而言，鈕扣夾頭在縫鈕扣之前上升至較藉由高度 6 200307775 調整盤以汽缸驅動之上推槓桿調整高度為高之位置。在缝鈕達 到此高度後，汽缸停止動作，以回復槓桿的動作下降鈕扣夾 頭，鈕扣定位成直立的，然後執行繞線操作。 就上述操作而言，在繞線操作前頸線之張力即減少，以解 5 決上述問題。 為供應钮扣至上述機器中的鈕扣夾頭，一習知鈕扣負載器 用來自供應部份傳送紐扣至紐扣夾頭。 在此機器中，供應部的高度可調整成使鈕扣可自供應部上 的一鈕扣裝載器傳送至夾頭，以到達高度調整盤所調整的夾頭 1〇 高度上。 [本發明擬解決的問題] 在上述鈕扣頸繞線機器中，缝紐扣中頸高度僅由高度調整 盤決定，而繞線操作中的繞線高度以高度調整盤及調整螺釘決 定。因此，繞線高度的改變除了高度調整盤之外還需要作調整 15 螺釘之同步調整，以不改變頸高。因此在操作上帶來麻煩。 操作者必須調整各頸的高度以及繞線高度。此亦造成操作 上的麻煩。 當連續地缝具有不同頸高或繞線高度的紐扣時，操作者必 須為各鈕扣作個別的高度調整，亦造成操作上的麻煩。 20 此外，當以習知機器缝一曲柄鈕扣時，操作者必須藉由鬆 開螺釘調整鈕扣夾頭，亦造成操作上的麻煩。 因此，本發明的一目的為備置不須複雜操作之可設定頸高 及繞線高度的一鈕扣頸繞線機器。 本發明的另一目的是備置一钮扣頸繞線機，它可在具有不 7 200307775 同頸高或繞線高度之不同鈕扣連續地在一缝製循環中縫製時 可容易地改變頸高及繞線高度。 本發明的另一目的是備置一鈕扣頸繞線機，它可容易地依 據一曲柄鈕的明細而改變其高度位置。 5 本發明的另一目的是備置一鈕扣頸繞線機，它可容易地依 據一擬縫製知扣的外形而改變其高度位置。 【發明内容】 [解決問題之手段] 為解決上述問題，本發明備置一鈕扣頸繞線縫紉機。依據 10本發明的第一特徵，如第1至3圖所示，該鈕扣頸繞線機（10)具 有一鈕扣支持器(2〇)，其可繞著水平配置的一轉動軸22〇轉動， 使得以在奴扣支持器上的一鈕扣夾頭21支持的一紐扣(BU)可 改變水平及垂直位置。該機器以鈕扣設定在水平位置下缝鈕扣 至一布上，其後以鈕扣設定在垂直位置下繞線缝線至鈕扣及布 15之間。該機器包括用以驅動鈕扣夾頭以改變布至鈕扣的高度的 一馬達(22)，用以設定各缝钮扣及繞線頸之操作高度的資料之 一設定裝置(40)，用以顯示設定資料的一顯示裝置(9〇),用以依 據設定資料控制馬達的一控制裝置(7〇),使得鈕扣夾頭定位成 在各縫紐扣及頸繞線操作中所欲的高度。 20 依據本發明的第一實施例，操作者可在顯示板上清楚的看 到缝鈕扣及頸繞線操作中的高度資料，以增加工作效率。 若僅須改變繞線操作中的間隔，僅改變繞線操作中的間隔 而不改變縫鈕扣操作中的間隔，因而增加工作效率。 此外，鈕扣夾頭僅以一馬達驅動，而使得機構精巧。 8 200307775 同時，上述之設定資料一方面藉由操作面板輪入資料，另 一方面藉由讀取儲存在記憶體(RAM，ROM等)之資料表中的所 欲資料而完成。 有關兩度之資料可界定成自钮扣至布的距離，或自轉動轴 5中心至鈕扣的距離，但前者對於改良工作效率較為佳。可選擇 地，自布至鈕扣的距離可為上述兩種操作之一設定，並可為其 他操作設定距離之位移。 在本發明的第一實施例中，機器10包括馬達，在頸繞線操 作中設定自布至鈕扣的一設定裝置，以及用來控制馬達，並依 10據設定資料而決定缝鈕扣操作中之高度，使得鈕扣夾頭在鈕扣 缝及頸繞線操作中定位成所欲的高度。 依據本發明的第二資施例，由於設定操作僅設定自布至鈕 扣的距離，設定操作因而簡化。 在縫鈕扣中的高度（自布至鈕扣的距離)可藉由計算在頸繞 15線操作中布至紐扣的距離，或自儲存於記憶體(RAM，ROM軟 碟等）中讀取一資料表的對應高度，選擇後一高度而決定。資料 表儲存對應後一高度之前一高度。 在本發明的第三實施例中，藉由設定裝置而設定之鈕扣缝 製的高度係以計算而得來。 20 依據本發明的第三實施例，除了第二實施例的效果外，該 機器不須具有所有缝鈕扣過程中的高度資料，因而資料容董可 減少。 在本發明的第四實施例中，該機器另包括一更正裝置 (7〇)，用以更正在缝鈕扣過程中的高度，如第1至3圖所示。 9 200307775 依據本發明之第四實施例，除了第二實施例之效果外，該 機器可藉由更正獲得期待的感覺或外觀。譬如，若一缝製品仍 有凹下之不良外觀，在缝鈕扣過程中可藉由增加較頸繞線過程 中之1¾度為高的高度以解決凹下問題，以達到期待之外觀。 5 在本發明的第五實施例中，該機器包括馬達，如第一實施 例之設定裝置(41),用以儲存對應於數個鈕扣之高度資料的一 記憶體裝置(71，73)以及依據自記憶體中連續讀取的各鈕扣之 高度資料控制馬達的一控制裝置(72)。 依據本發明的第五實施例，該機器可依據儲存於記憶體中 10的對應高度資料以馬達控制在縫鈕扣及頸繞線過程中鈕扣的 to度而連續地縫兩個或數個钮扣。換言之，該機器可自動地連 續缝鈕扣以達成一缝紉循環，不須在缝鈕扣及頸繞線過程中為 每一鈕扣設定高度，因而簡化操作。 在本發明的第六實施例中，如第M4圖所示，該機器包括 15 一馬達，一用以選擇曲柄鈕扣或其他鈕扣的選擇裝置，以及若 選擇曲柄鈕扣用以控制馬達以缝曲柄鈕扣的控制裝置(70)。 依據本發明的第六實施例，該機器可同時且容易地達成曲 柄鈕扣之頸繞線操作。 在本發明的第七實施例中，如第1至14圖所示，該機器包 20括馬達，用以供應钮扣至鈕扣夾頭的一钮扣負載器（5〇),用 以儲存供應位置資料至鈕扣夾頭上的一供應位置之一記憶體 裝置(73)’以及適於依據供應位置資料控制馬達的一控制裝置 (70)〇 依據本發明的第七實施例，該供應位置可在鈕扣夾頭側調 10 200307775 整，且不須調整在鈕扣側的供應位置，使得鈕扣可連續且容易 地由供應負載器維持的固定供應位置供應至鈕扣夾頭。 [圖式之簡要說明] 第1圖為一概略方塊圖，其顯示依據本發明之一鈕扣頸繞 5 線缝紉機的整個構形； 第2圈顯示支持在一紐扣支持器單元上的一紐扣以及以第 1囷之機器將紐扣縫製於其上的-布之間的位置關係； 第3圓為支持紐扣於機器中的師支持器單元之整個構造 之立體囷； 1〇帛4圖為在第3圏之鈕扣支持器單元上的-鈕扣夾頭之底 視圖； 以及目 馬钮扣夾頭之一夾頭臂的一頂端之截面圖 夾頭臂上移開之一夾頭指形部的平面圓； 夾 15 20 頭支Hi為心支純扣爽頭於第313之紐扣單元中的 頭支持機機_面立艘圖； 在機器上之一紐扣負載器之侧視圖 第9:示裝在機器上之一紐扣負載器之平面圈 為類不裝在機器上之一鈕扣負載器之 裝在機器上的一顯示部分之一： 繞線的缝製及! 一钮扣广本發明之機器縫至布上並完成她^ 第16®為在本發明之機器中一缝製循環所須的資料之 11 200307775 實例； 第π圖為顯示一習知鈕扣頸繞線機器的主要零件之立體 圖； 第18圖顯示以習知機器縫製鈕扣的該方法(a)為在鈕扣缝 5製過程中一鈕扣夾頭的狀態，（b)為（a)狀態下的平面圖，而（c) 顯示在紐扣頸部繞線過程中鈕扣夾頭狀態的平面圖； 第19圖顯示習知機器的鈕扣縫製狀態；（幻為顯示第i8(c) 圖中縫線狀態的側視圖，而(b)為顯示鈕扣頸部在狀態(a)下具有 一完成高度的一狀態之側視圖。 10 【背施方式】 [發明之實施例] 以下將配合圖式及本發明之一實施例詳細說明。 參看第1圖，一鈕扣頸繞線缝紉機1〇包括一缝製部u，一 鈕扣支持單元20 , —進給機構30 , 一操作面板(輸入裝置，設定 15裝置)40，一鈕扣負載器50，一鈕扣負載驅動器60 , —控制盒70 , 電磁閥80以及一顯示器9〇。 該缝紉部11具有一針，一環圈器，以及軀動器，其藉由針 之上下移動及環圈器之移動縫鈕扣至布上，線通過在鈕扣上的 扣眼，並繞線鈕扣頸。 20 參看第1-3圖，支持器單元20與一轉動轴220相連(參看第2 圖），該轴與習知钮扣支持器單元一樣，可轉動及以水平地架設 在一機器艘上。轴220的轉動可改變在單元2〇上的钮扣成為相 對於布之水平或垂直位置，以使钮扣縫於其上。支持器單元2〇 具有支持紐扣BU的-紐扣夾頭2卜以及用以上下移動爽頭21 12 200307775 的一夾頭南度調整馬達22。軸220與作為一夾頭擺動裝置的一 空氣汽缸(未顯示）連接，而空氣汽缸之驅動造成單元2〇繞著軸 220擺動，以定位紐扣成為相對布之水平或垂直位置。在此實 施例中的轴220，空氣汽缸，以及支持器單元2〇除支持器單元 5之高度外，與第17圖中的習知機器的軸ό ,空氣汽缸7以及支持 器單元4是對應的。 以下將配合第3至6圖詳細說明鈕扣支持器單元20。 該單元20包括鈕扣夾頭21，夾頭高度調整馬達22，以及用 以可移開地支持夾頭21之一夾頭支持部23。 10 支持紐扣BU於縫製位置的夾頭21有一連接於支持部23的 夾頭本體211，以及備置在本體211上的夾頭臂212及213，而該 臂可相對於該本體前後滑動。 臂212及213水平地平行配置，且可滑動地配合在本體211 之後面上的兩個凹槽211b，211a。此處，臂212較在移動方向的 15臂213為長。在臂的各頂端上分別連接相互相對的夾頭指形部 217 ’ 218，以自邊上爽住钮扣。 參看第4圖，一轉動板215可轉動地繞著在本體211下方的 一轴214架設。該板215具有在軸214的兩側上之直徑方向為狹 長的孔215a，215b，該孔215a，215b分別與自臂213，212的近 20 端突出之栓213P及212P銜接。 就此組合而言，板215阻止臂212,213移出凹槽211b，211a 之外，且作動在栓213P，212P上的孔215a，215b的板215之轉 動使臂213，212沿著凹槽211a，211b移動，於是，指形部218， 217可相互分開或靠近。 13 200307775 此外，一栓215c站立在孔215a及215b的中間及下方上，而 一栓211c站立在定位於本體211之左下方上的一延伸部之頂 上，該栓215c及211c藉由一彈簧216(驅動元件）而相互連接。彈 簧216總是驅使平板215以順時鐘方向轉動。 5 換言之，彈簧總是驅使夾頭指形部217及218靠近，以穩固 地夾住鈕扣。此處，平板215連接於一夾頭動作槓桿241，以下 將說明。 夾頭指形部217，218可移開地分別依據擬缝上的鈕扣形狀 而架設在臂212，213上。 10 如第5囷所示，除了夾體外，指形部217，218分別具有擬 ***臂212，213上之支持架2121，2131的架設孔2121a，2131a 中的架設轴。 架設轴217a，218a在其週邊上具有凹槽，其配合突出部 2121b，2131b，而該突出部可分別在架設孔2121a，2131a之内 15 壁上移進移出。突出部2121b，2131b突出於孔2121a，2131a之 壁上，藉由彈簧2121c，2131c以孔之徑向移進移出。就此構造 而言，指形部217及218可分別連接於支持器架2121，2131，並 可自其上移開。 夾頭指形部217，218在夾體上具有相對之切口（未顯示）， 20 以配合鈕扣之週邊，使得被切口夾住的鈕扣部份可維持鈕扣底 面之高度。 以下將說明用以支持可上下移動之鈕扣夾頭的夾頭支持 機構23，其中鈕扣頸的高度係藉由上下移動之一既定高度定位 夾頭21而決定。 14 200307775 支持機構23包括夾頭高度調整馬達22，馬達固定於其上的 一底231，以及架設在底231上且可上下移動的一高度動作底 245 〇 高度調整馬達22為被通過一馬達連接電線1〇1而供應之信 號所驅動的脈衝馬達。在馬達軸的頂端上，一高度驅動齒輪22a 被齒輪螺釘22b所固定。 馬達22以螺釘組232a固定至具有齒輪22a可通過的一孔之 一馬達調整板232。 底231具有一U字形體，而馬達22藉由螺釘102通過平板232 10 架設在底231上，使得齒輪22a水平地自底背通過至U字形體的 内部。 一頸部高度驅動轴233備置在可上下移動而延伸的底231 上。 軸233***架設在一上底231b及一下底231c的軸孔上之軸 15 承231d中，而各端均以e形環233b固定，以阻止轴233離開底 231。軸承231d以螺釘組231e固定於上底231b及下底231c上的底 231 上。 轴233上有一架233a，其與配置在U形底231内的齒輪22a 嚙合。就此組合而言，馬達22之轉動造成轴233上下移動。 20 此外，一引導轴235以上下方向備置在上底231b與下底 231c之間，且與驅動轴233平行。此處，驅動轴233及引導軸235 均加上滑脂以使與其接觸的元件作平順的滑動。 底231另備置一頸高度源感應器236，以在驅動轴233移動 時偵測出鈕扣頸的原始高度。 15 200307775 一高度動作底245以水平延伸以作一致動作的螺釘組245a 固定於軸233上。 在動作底245的一端上固定一滑件246，其在引導轴235上 滑動。當驅動轴233相對於底上下時，滑件246沿著引導軸235 5 的滑動可阻止驅動軸233以及動作底245的轉動。 動作底245備置一校準栓237,以定位架設其上且以水平延 伸的紐扣夾頭21。在栓237的頂部的是以螺釘固定的一夾頭槓 桿238的一轴頂端238a。 栓237***夾頭本體211的近端表面，而夾頭槓桿238之軸 10 部通過在夾頭本體211上的一架設元件211d上之一孔***。頂端 238a與栓237之間以螺紋的銜接允許鈕扣夾頭21固定於動作底 245 〇 動作底245男備置通過一汽缸架設板240以開關夾頭指形 部217，218的一汽缸239。 15 架設在板240之下方的汽缸239具有可前後移動的一汽缸 桿239a。在該桿239a具有在頂端上的一夾頭動作檟桿241，在槓 桿241上的一圓形切口241a，而槓桿銜接站立於轉動板上的栓 215c(參看第4圖），汽缸239之驅動造成指形部217，218的移動 而夾住或鬆開钮扣。 20 在架設板240的上方，架設一感應器板242，以被原始感應 器236所偵測。亦即，與動作底245—起移動之鈕扣夾頭21的原 始高度依據驅動轴233之移動而被偵測。同時，轉動轴220*** 在底231下方的一孔231f中，並固定於其中。 在上述鈕扣支持器單元20操作中，馬達22之驅動造成齒輪 16 200307775 22a的轉動，傳送轉動至驅動軸233，以上下移動轴233。然後， 固定於軸233的動作底245上下移動。底245的上下移動會使連 接於底245的鈕扣夾頭21上升或下降。 由於架233a及齒輪22a用來上下移動夾頭21的範圍大約是 5 30mm，與習知凸輪3mm之動作比較顯然大得多。此較大範圍的 移動允許缝鈕扣至一布的高度較習知者為高，且可缝具有高度 在30mm内的不同頸之紐扣。 進給機構30幾乎與習知鈕扣頸繞線機相同，其與一針及一 環圈器的動作同步。機構30包括一進給框架31，一缝扣深度調 10整馬達32 , — R-轴進給馬達33(用以以徑向移動框架31)以及 一 ·-轴進給馬達（用以以弧形方向移動框架），該1軸以及· _ 轴進給馬達移動進給框架31至對應於一缝上位置的一預定位 支持一折疊布以使鈕扣缝在其上的進給框架31具有一板 15舌31丨(參看第2圖），其用以定位折疊布至針的上下移動路徑， 以及一布容納板312 ,其與舌311—起支持布。缝扣深度調整馬 達32改變容納板312的位置，使得縫扣深度可以相對於針之上 下移動路徑之折疊布的水平位移改變。 操作面板(設定裝置)40具有，譬如，輸入鈕扣頸高度及包 20括高度之預定資料的十個鍵的開關。此資料自操作面板40輸入 至控制盒70。 以下將配合第7_9圖說明紐扣負載器5〇。 鈕扣負載器50自動地供應擬缝上的鈕扣至夾頭指形部217 及218，以改良操作效率。負載器5〇，如第7 , 8圖所示，配置 17 200307775 在與縫上位置(針進入位置）有一段既定距離的機器之側邊上。 負載器50包括固定於機器體的一底板61，配置在底板61上 且可轉動地以水平方向架設之一轉動底62，可相對於轉動底62 作前後移動的一滑動臂63，以及架設在滑動臂63上的一鈕支持 5 部 64。 在上方具有一長的長度水平表面之底板61之上固定一空 氣汽缸65。 轉動底62可繞著一轉動轴66轉動，且該轉動轴垂直地架設 在底板61上，並經由一連桿67連接在板61上的汽缸65。亦即， 10 汽缸65的驅動造成轉動底62相對於底板61之轉動。 滑動臂63藉由與底62上之一細孔62a銜接的階級式螺針 63a連接於轉動底62之近端上。螺釘63a沿著細孔62a的滑動允許 臂63相對於轉動底62滑動。 滑動臂63亦與固定在轉動底62上之一空氣汽缸68的一汽 15 缸桿68a之頂端連接〇汽缸68之驅動在臂63之移動平行方向上產 生桿68a的一活塞動作，並以第9圖中箭頭所示方向移動臂63。 鈕扣支持部64架設於滑動臂63的頂端上，以水平地支持鈕 扣0 在上述組合中，汽缸65，轉動軸66，連桿67，轉動底62， 20汽缸68 ,以及滑動臂63構成一姐扣負載器驅動部6〇。該藤動部 60允許鈕扣負載器50(及鈕扣支持部64)前後移動，並擺動。 因此’如第8圖所示，支持部64藉由底62之轉動以及臂63 的滑動動作移動至如虛線所示的一供應位置SP。換言之，鈕扣 負載器50以此方式控制，使得下一擬缝上的紐扣必須供應至夾 18 200307775 頭構形部217，218可夾住奴扣以使其缝至布上的位置证處。 控制盒(控制裝置)7〇基本上包括R〇M 71，RAM 73，以及 CPU72，以依據程式執行不同的操作。R〇M(記憶體裝置)71事 先已儲存控制缝紉機的程式，以及使用於程式中的資料。 5 RAM(記憶裝置)73儲存自R〇M71中讀取的資料，該資料輪入或 自操作面板40上設定，且該資料均依據程式以cpu(控制裝置) 計算。 譬如，ROM 71儲存程式，以執rCPU所設定鈕扣頸繞線 部份之頸部高度及繞線高度，以及缝紐扣之操作等步驟，以下 1〇將詳細說明。MM 73儲存控制資料，如第16圖所示的繞線鈕扣 頸的缝製資料，以及用以執行操作步驟的程式。 CPU 72經由未顯示的一界面連接操作面板4〇，以選擇或改 變依據操作面板40之輸入資料的控制資料。cpu 72亦與一伺服 器馬達驅動回路有一界面，以驅動缝紉部份丨丨之主要軸伺服器 15馬達。伺服器馬達之轉動的控制控制了針，環圈器，以及通過 針，環圈器以及包括一上轴及一下轴的延展機的驅動機構。 CPU 72另與驅動回路有一界面，以驅動1轴進給馬達(脈 衝馬達)33，該· ·轴進給馬達(脈衝馬達)34以及缝扣深度調整馬 達32控制進給動作在R及•方向，以及缝扣深度之調整的動作。 20 CPU 72與一脈衝馬達驅動回路有一界面，以驅動一脈衝馬 達在紐扣缝上及頸繞線操作中轉動針及一環圈器的底。 CPU 72亦與電磁閥80有一界面，以驅動鈕扣負載器驅動部 (汽缸65，68等)上下移動，並擺動鈕扣負載器50。 CPU 72另通過電磁閥80控制在鈕扣支持器單元2〇上的各 19 200307775 起動器，如擺動單元20的空氣汽缸，夾頭21的汽缸239，以及 高度調整馬達等。 以下參考第2圖將說明以一數學公式由CPU 72計算出的一 頸高度以及一完成繞線高度之一繞線高度。 5 在下文中，P代表扣眼之間的距離，S為缝扣深度，T為在 鈕扣頸繞線時自布至鈕扣的距離（以下稱為、完成高度夕，T1為 在鈕扣缝上時自轉動轴220中心至鈕扣的距離（以下稱為、頸高 度，），T2為在鈕扣頸繞線時自轉動軸220至鈕扣之間的距離(以 下稱為 '燒線高度♦)，T3為布及轉動轴220中心之間的距離（以 10 下稱為★偏位值〃）。B為鈕扣厚度，而Η為扣眼直徑。 首先，頸高度Τ1由完成高度Τ計算出。 若RT代表完成高度Τ所須的一線圈長度，則 RT=2(P+B+T+S+2S5) (1) 假設S’幾乎等於s。 15 在鈕扣縫上時整個環長度為 P-H + 2B + T1 + J(P. H/2.S)2. (71. S)2 ⑵ 決定公式（1)等於公式(2)， rt:p H+2B+t1+ 职 ff/2. s)2.(n善 若以χ=ιιΤ·Ρ+Η_2Β取代，且Y==P H/2 S，則上述公式為 XTia (π. sy 將此二項平方 20 200307775 y2· v2· β 2〇S. 使用公式(3)，頸高度T1可由既定完成高度T所獲得《因此， 適當的頸高度Τ1藉由向上移動鈕扣夾頭21至高度Τ1而設定。 接下來，頸高度Τ1及繞線高度Τ2之間的位移以下述公式計 算。 5 · · Τ2 ,以及Τ2=Τ · Τ3 (4) 以Τ1替換公式(3)，位移可由既定完成高度Τ獲得。 藉由位移•自頦高度Τ1移動鈕扣夾頭2Ϊ，在頸繞線缝製時 設定成繞線高度T2，使得自布至鈕扣的高度可在頭繞線缝製時 建立完成高度T。若夾頭21擺動至實施例之機器中的繞線位置 10 時，在頸繞線縫製時，由於偏位值T3，自布至鈕扣的詎離變成 較頸高度T1長，而造成布被頸線向上拉動。 以下將參考第11至14圖說明缝鈕扣至布上的機器之操作。 該方法自第11圖開始，以開始步驟S1打開機器。在步驟S2 上，CPU送出信號至所有驅動器，以回到其原來的點，且該方 15 法進入決定步驟S3，檢查各感應器，以偵測各驅動器之操作狀 況，以檢查各駆動器回到其原來的點。若是，該方法進入步驟 S5，若否（不正常），該方法進入步驟S6，其指出在一顯示器上 的錯誤，並移動至步驟S7，以關上電源，然後，進入步驟S8， 它釋出並儲存錯誤，且該方法移動回到步驟S1。 20 在步驟S5，不同的缝製資料自操作面板40輸入，並進入步 驟S9。這些資料為完成高度τ，扣眼直徑Η，扣眼P之間的距離， 叙扣厚度Β，縫扣深度s，一種纽扣之選擇(扁平紐，或曲柄钮 21 200307775 等），一鈕扣轉換高度S，缝速等。步驟S9檢查是否一曲柄鈕扣 、已選出。若是，該方法進入步驟S10，若否，進入步驟S11。 [非曲柄钮扣之姐扣] 在步驟S11中，CPU依據輸入資料及控制程式，以上述公 5 式(3)計算出頸高度T1，並以公式(4)計算出繞線高度T2，然後 該方法進入步驟S12。 在步驟S12中，高度調整馬達22依據在步驟S5上的鈕扣轉 換高度Tp輸入上下移動鈕扣夾頭，而夾頭指形部217，218夾住 由鈕扣支持部64供應之夾住鈕扣。然後，該方法進入決定步驟 10 S13 〇 步驟S13檢查是否計算值須更正，若是，該方法進入步驟 S14，若若，移動至步驟S15。步驟S13通常在決定值是否須更 正的試驗缝製之後才作決定。 步驟S14加入更正值至計算值Τ1及Τ2中。更正值係由部的 15 彈性等得出，以獲得完成高度Τ，且通常在0.1mm步驟中決定。 在更正後，該方法進入步驟S15。在步驟S15中，操作者設置一 布在一預定位置，詳言之，係設定一折疊布在舌311及布容納板 312之間（參看第2圖），然後進入步驟S16。 步驟S16鎖住舌311。然後，該方法進入步驟S17，以打開 20 —布設定開關（未顯示），並移動至步驟S18,起動一壓機裝置(未 顯示），然後進入步驟S19。 在步驟S19中，高度調整馬達22移動鈕扣夾頭21至頸高度 T1。其後，該方法進入步驟S20。以移動夾頭21至缝製開始位 置，並進入決定步驟S21。 22 200307775 步驟S21檢查是否設定鈕在打開狀況。若是，該方法進入 步驟S22，以鬆開布並回到步驟S15再設定布，否則，進入步驟 S23，以打開一缝製開始開關，步驟S24以針及環圈器等作鈕扣 縫上工作，而鈕扣縫製在步驟S25中以頸線端切開作完成，然 5 後該方法進入步驟S26。 在步驟S26中，支持在支持器單元20上的鈕扣藉由轉動轴 220繞著其轴轉90度而擺動，並進入步驟S27。 步驟S27計算一位移，而鈕扣夾頭21依據位移·移動至繞線 高度T2之位置，然後頸繞線縫製在步驟S28中於缝製部11上執 10 行。頸繞線缝製在步驟S29中切下繞線線端而完成，然後，進 入步驟S30。 在步驟以S30中，以鈕扣缝的布被釋放出，且在步驟S31 中，進給機構30移動至一鈕扣容納位置（與鈕扣供應位置水 平），亦即，夾頭21移動至鈕扣供應位置SP，而進給機構移動至 15 鈕扣容納位置。 接著，夾頭21移動至在步驟S32中的夾頭轉換高度Tp，然 後，夾頭指形部217，218在步驟S33中自鈕扣負載器中承接一 鈕扣，然後該方法回到步驟S13，以重複以下步驟，直到鈕扣 缝製結束。 20 [曲柄紐扣] 若步驟S9選擇一曲柄鈕扣，該方法進入步驟S10以計算出 一繞線高度Τ2，並進入CPU72加入一曲柄鈕扣轉變值•至 Τ2(Τ2=Τ2+·)，的步驟S35，然後進入步驟S36。在步驟S36中， 夾頭21被調整成轉換高度Tp以容納一鈕扣，並進入決定步驟 23 200307775 S37，檢查是否計算值須更正。若是，該方法進入步驟S38，若 否，則移動至步驟S39。步驟S38加入更正值至計算值T2及Tp。 更正值由布彈性等得來，以獲得完成高度Τ，並通常在o.imm 步驟中決定。在更正後，該方法進入步驟S39。在步驟S39中， 5 操作者設定一布於一預定位置，尤其是，設定一擬缝製之折疊 布於舌311及布容納板312之間。然後進入步驟S41中，鎖住舌。 其後，該方法進入步驟S41，以打開一布設定開關（未顯 示），並移動至步驟S42，起動一壓機裝置(未顯示），然後進入 步驟S43。在步驟S43中，鈕扣夾頭21移動至繞線高度T2，其後 10 該方法進入步驟S45 ’在該處支持於支持器單元20上的紐扣藉 由轉動轴220繞著其轴以90度轉動而擺動，且進入步驟S46中以 移動夾頭21至缝製開始位置。然後，決定步驟S47檢查是否設 定開關為打開的。 若設定開關為打開的，該方法進入步驟S48，以鬆開布並 15 回到步驟S39，以再設定布，否則，進入步驟S49以打開一縫製 開始開關（未顯示），並進入步驟S50執行鈕扣縫製，其後該方法 進入步驟S51，執行在缝製部11上的頸繞線缝製。在步驟S52 中，頸繞線之缝製在切下繞線線端後完成並進入步驟S53 ,以 鬆開以鈕扣缝製的布，並進入步驟S54。在步驟S54中，進給機 20 構30移動至一鈕扣容納位置，亦即，移動至鈕扣容納位置的進 給機構之移動允許夾頭21水平地移動至鈕扣供應位置sp。 接下來，夾頭21移動至在步驟S55中的夾頭轉換高度Tp， 然後夾頭指形部217，218在步驟S56中自鈕扣負載器上承接一 鈕扣，並回到步驟S37，以重複以下步驟直到鈕扣缝製結束為 24 200307775 止。 [鈕扣負載器之操作] 以下將說明鈕扣負載器之操作，其係以紐扣縫製及上述頸 繞線該方法執行。 在步驟S13/S14或S37/S38後，該方法與步驟S15或S39同時 進入步驟S57。 步驟S57驅動鈕扣50至等待位置，在該處操作者可在負載 器50上設定一鈕扣(鈕扣設定在預備狀態下），而鈕扣支持在步 驟S58中的鈕扣支持部64上(鈕扣預先設定），然後，該方法進入 10 步騨S33或S56。步驟S33或S56分支到步驟S59。 步驟S59縮回汽缸桿68a以自鈕扣接收位置移回支持部 64。其後，在步驟S60中，汽缸65被驅動以繞著轉動轴66中心 朝機器側轉動。步驟S61驅動汽缸68以推進支持部64轉換鈕 扣，然後，負載器50自缝製工作區撤出，該方法進入步驟S13 15 或337。 在上述實施例中，操作面板40用來作為資料設定裝置，亦 4遂擇地使用一資料表儲存於如ROM或RAM之記憶體中。警 如，完成高度T，20mm，15mm以及10mm可分別以大(L)，中（M)， 小（S)輸入記憶體中。當此資料L，M’ s之一經由面板40而選出 在，對應的完成高度可自記憶體中讀取’並建立。 2〇时 在該實施例中，完成的高度T為一指定的所欲高度，但， 誓如，一頸高度T1以及繞線高度T亦可直接輪入。在此例中， 如第10圖所示，面板40可具有一顯示器90，以顯示輸入頸高度 以及繞線高度，而操作鍵41用來改變其值。就此組合而言，各 25 200307775 高度可藉由上下箭頭所表示的對應鍵41之操作而建立，其中顯 示部份之間出現的點表示小數點，而單位是mm。 可選擇地，各頸高度及繞線高度可輸入作為一布至一鈕扣 間的距離，只要各鈕扣夾頭高度可依據在缝製及頸繞線缝製時 5 的輸入資料設定成所欲的高度即可。 就此組合而言，操作者可在顯示器9上辨識出頸高度以及 繞線高度。 [缝製循環] 此實施例之鈕扣頸繞線機運用電腦控制缝紉機構，以對於 10完成高度的設定具有高度彈性。若機器具有如第16圓所示儲存 於RAM73中的縫製資料，機器即可連續地讀取依據一缝製循環 指令而儲存的資料，而執行缝製循環❶ 參看第16圖’垂直方向加線項目代表一縫製循環所須的輸 入資料，而水平方向加線項目代表縫製体置(擬缝的位置”縫 15 製位置(N)以四個位置作代表，以方便說明。 第一個鈕扣缝製施加於衣服的上方，第二鈕扣在衣服下 方。第二鈕扣與第一扭扣由於布料厚度的不同而有不同的缝扣 深度。第三钮扣之缝製施加一裝飾紐扣（曲柄紐扣)於前方。該 裝飾鈕扣不與一扣眼銜接，因此不需要高的繞線高度，且由於 20裝飾位置之布料厚度其缝扣深度與第一，第二鈕扣不同。就第 三鈕扣缝製而言，高度調整馬達22被驅動以調整繞線高度。 第四個紐扣缝製施加於一内袋。紐扣之尺寸較第一至第= 钮扣為小’且其縫製圖樣為兩個孔的紐扣，其缝扣深度等亦不 同。最好備置雙鈕扣負載器，且可依據缝製圖樣選出一個負載 26 200307775 器。在此實施例中，鈕扣負載器為懸吊的，使得鈕扣可以手 動方式設定。 於是，由於依據本發明之機器可在缝製過程中改變繞線的 高度’縫製循環可在操作者作第三個紐扣缝製，但不干擾機器 5 下容易地達成。 此外，本發明之單一單元的缝紉機可用於具彈性的循環， 包括不同種類的鈕扣，如前扣，裝飾扣（曲柄扣），套筒扣，内 扣以及肩扣等。亦即，一件衣服僅須一個循環即可完成紐扣的 缝製。此外，即使紐扣具有不同的尺寸，亦可以一個缝紉循環 10完成，因而增加縫製操作的效力。 可選擇地’钮扣本身可在鈕扣缝製之後轉動，以轉動頸線 成為細長柱形狀，然後該細長柱可作繞線之用。此該方法造成 較一致且牢固的鈕扣頸繞線。 【圖式簡單說明】 15 第1圖為一概略方塊圖，其顯示依據本發明之一鈕扣頸繞 線缝紉機的整個構形； 第2圖顯示支持在一鈕扣支持器單元上的一鈕扣以及以第 1圖之機器將鈕扣縫製於其上的一布之間的位置關係； 第3圓為支持鈕扣於機器中的鈕扣支持器單元之整個構造 20 之立體圓； 第4圓為在第3圓之鈕扣支持器單元上的一鈕扣夾頭之底 視圖， 第5圏為鈕扣夾頭之一夾頭臂的一頂端之截面圖，以及自 夾頭臂上移開之一夾頭指形部的平面圖； 27 200307775 第6圖為用以支持鈕扣夾頭於第3圖之鈕扣單元 頭支持機構的剖面立體圖； 的夾 第7圖為顯不裝在機器上之一鈕扣負載器之倒挽圏； 第8圖為顯示裝在機器上之一鈕扣負載器之平面囷·： 第9圖為顯示裝在機器上之一鈕扣負載器之立趙圖！ 第1〇圏顯示裝在機器上的一顯示部分之一實例；’ 第U至14圖為顯示在依據本發明之機器上起彳 繞線的-流賴_份； 、裂及頸 10 第15圖顯示以本發明之機器縫至布上並完成 一鈕扣的一實例； 扣頸繞線的 第16圖為在本發明之機器中一縫製循環所須的資料之一 實例； 一 第Π圖為顯示一習知鈕扣頸繞線機器的主要零件之立體 圖； 15 第18圖顯示以習知機器缝製鈕扣的該方法(a)為在鈕扣縫 製過程中一鈕扣夾頭的狀態，（1>)為(&)狀態下的平面圖，而(c) 顯示在紐扣頸部繞線過程中鈕扣夾頭狀態的平面圖； 第19囷顯示習知機器的鈕扣缝製狀態；（a)為顯示第i8(c)圖中 缝線狀態的側視圖，而(b)為顯示鈕扣頦部在狀態(a)下具有一完成高 20度的一狀態之側視圖。 【圖式之主要元件代表符號表】 4 支持單元 5 針 6 轴 1 舌 2 支持板 3 鈕扣夾頭 28 200307775 7 汽缸 64 支持部 8 盤 65 汽缸 10 鈕扣頸繞線機 66 轴 11 縫製部 67 連桿 20 支持器單元 68 汽缸 21 鈕扣夾頭 68a 桿 22 馬達 70 控制裝置 22a 齒輪 71 記憶體裝置 22b 螺釘 72 CPU 23 夾頭支持部 73 記憶體裝置 30 進給機構 80 電磁閥 31 進給框架 90 顯示器 32 馬達 101 電線 33 馬達 102 螺釘 34 脈衝馬達 211 夾頭本體 40 操作面板 211a 凹槽 41 設定裝置 211b 凹槽 50 負載器 211c 栓 60 驅動器 212 夾頭臂 61 底板 212p 栓 62 底 213 夾頭臂 62a 細孔 213p 栓 63 滑動臂 214 轴 63a 螺釘 215 板 29 200307775 215a 孔 238a 軸頂端 215b 孔 239 汽缸 215c 栓 239a 汽缸桿 216 彈簧 240 板 217 夾頭指形部 241 槓桿 217a 架設軸 241a 切口 218 夾頭指形部 242 感應器板 218a 架設轴 245 底 220 轴 245a 螺釘組 231 底 246 滑件 231b 上底 311 舌 231c 下底 312 板 23 Id 轴承 2121 支持架 231e 螺釘組 2121a 孔 23 If 孔 2121b突出部 232 馬達調整板 2121c彈簧 232a 螺釘組 2131 支持架 233 驅動轴 2131a 孔 233a 架 2131b突出部 233b 環 2131c 彈簧 235 引導轴 SI 電源打開 236 感應器 S2 回到原處 237 校準栓 S3 正常地進行 238 槓桿 S5 輸入缝紉資料 30 200307775 56 顯示錯誤 57 關閉 58 釋出錯誤並儲存 59 曲柄紐扣？ 510 計算T2 511 計算ΤΙ，T2 512 以傳送高度設定一鈕扣 513 須要更正？ 514 加上更正值 515 設定布 516 鎖住舌 517 打開設定開關 518 起動一壓機 519 移動細口夾頭頭高度Γ1 S20回到缝紉開始點 S21設定開關打開？ S22移開布 S23打開開始開關 S24開始縫鈕扣 S25切線端 S26擺動钮扣90 S27移動鈕扣夾頭至繞線高度 T2 S28開始頸繞線 S29切斷線端 S30移開缝好的布 S31移動鈕扣夾頭至鈕扣供應 位置 S32移動鈕扣夾頭至高度％ S33傳送一钮扣 S35 計算 Τ2=Τ2+ S3 6以傳送高度設^—奴^口 S37需要更正？ S38加上更正值 S39設定布 S40鎖住舌 S41打開設定開關 S42起動一壓機 S43移動鈕扣夾頭至繞線高度 Τ2 S45缝鈕扣 S46回到缝紉開始點 S47設定開關打開？ S48移開布 S49打開開始開關 S50 開始缝钮扣 S51開始頸繞線 S52切斷線端 31 200307775 S53 移開缝好的布 S57鈕扣準備狀態 S54移動鈕扣夾頭至鈕扣供應 S58預設一鈕扣 位置 S59移動後支持部 S55移動鈕扣夾頭至高度Tp S60擺動鈕扣負載器至機器側 S56傳送一鈕扣 S61前進並撤空鈕扣負載器 32200307775 发明 Description of the invention: I: The technical field to which the invention belongs 3 [Field of the invention] The present invention relates to a sewing button machine, in particular, according to the thickness of the cloth, the button is sewn on the cloth by 5 by the depth of the seam of the needle. Thereafter, a button sewing machine that winds a seam (neckline) between a button and a cloth. [Explanation of Related Techniques] A conventional button neck winding sewing machine will be described with reference to Figs. 17 and 18 as follows. 10 This machine includes a tongue 1 and a button support unit 4 with a support plate facing the tongue 1 and a lost button element (button chuck) 3. The tongue 1 (shown in Fig. 18 (b)) supports a cloth C folded at a button sewing position with respect to a path forward of a needle 5. The button chuck 3 can support a button BU in a horizontal or vertical position. The support unit 4 is connected to a rotating shaft 6 rotatably mounted on a machine body, and is actuated by a piston of an air cylinder 7 connected to the shaft 15. Turn. The rotation of the shaft 6 allows the button chuck 3 to swing. The operation of preparing this combination machine will be explained as follows. When the button BU is sewn to the cloth C, the button BU is first placed on the cloth C supported by the tongue 1 and the horizontal position on the support plate 2 (see Fig. 18 (a), (b)). When the machine is operating 20, the needle 5 moves up and down alternately into the buttonhole Ba and the cloth C to be sewn. In cooperation with the tongue 1, the support plate 2 and the button chuck 3 are synchronized to move the button BU to the cloth and form on the cloth. A single-thread chain stitch with a predetermined interval (neck height) between the buttons. After this sewing button operation, the operator rotates the chuck 3 to an upright position as shown in FIG. 18 (c), so that the chuck 3 supports the button in a vertical position in front of the tongue 1. When the machine restarts operation 5 200307775, the needle 5 alternately falls on both sides of the suture Sa and Sb (hereinafter referred to as the neckline) between the button BU and the cloth C, as shown in Fig. 19 (a) and (b). As shown, to form a 'winding line Sc', the horizontal movement of the support plate 2 and the chuck 3 around the neck and the tongue 1 forms the 'winding line'. The advantage of this button neck winding is to strengthen the strength of the button sewn to the cloth to prevent the button 5 from falling, and the buttonhole is stretched by the threads Sa and Sb to affect the appearance. In other words, the button neck winding is intended to be pulled. The straight winding Sc can tighten the sutures Sa and Sb inward to prevent the buttonhole floor from becoming large. The sewing machine is also provided with a button neck height adjusting disc 8. The adjustment of the disc 8 can change the vertical position of the button chuck 3 to change the distance between the cloth and the button. 10 However, since the disc 8 in this machine can be adjusted manually and the position cannot be adjusted during the sewing process, the height of the chuck position in the sewing machine is unavoidably almost the same as that during the neck winding process. Therefore, the tension of the winding wire Sc acts directly on the necklines Sa and Sb. Due to this factor, if the tension of the thread Sc is too small, the threads Sa and Sb cannot shrink, as shown in the circle 19 (a), which causes the appearance to be poor, and if the tension of the thread 15 is too large, the cloth C will be wound around the cloth C The creases at the seams C1 (so-called depressions) appear to be pulled upwards, thus losing the beauty. Even if an appropriate tension is applied to the thread Sc, the winding is concentrated on the middle part of the sutures Sa, Sb, which looks like a Japanese tambourine, which is ugly and reduces the strength of the needle seam, and the two ends of the neckline cannot be aligned. Japanese Patent No. 2655749 discloses an initial sewing machine, in which both the height of the song and the height of the winding line can be adjusted to improve the sewing appearance. In particular, the button sewing machine includes a push-up lever for raising the height position of the button chuck, a cylinder for moving the push-up lever, and an adjustment for the button chuck, in addition to the button-neck adjustment knob. Ascending height position. With this configuration, the button chuck is raised to a higher position before the button is sewn to adjust the height by the cylinder 6 driven by the adjustment disk. After the sewing button reaches this height, the cylinder stops to lower the button chuck in response to the action of the lever, the button is positioned upright, and then the winding operation is performed. As for the above operation, the tension of the neckline is reduced before the winding operation to solve the above problem. In order to supply buttons to the button chucks in the above-mentioned machine, a conventional button loader transfers the buttons to the button chucks from the supply part. In this machine, the height of the supply section can be adjusted so that the buttons can be transferred from a button loader on the supply section to the chuck to reach the height of the chuck 10 adjusted by the height adjustment disc. [Problems to be Solved by the Invention] In the above-mentioned button-neck winding machine, the height of the middle neck of the sewing button is determined only by the height adjustment disk, and the winding height in the winding operation is determined by the height adjustment disk and the adjustment screw. Therefore, in addition to the height adjustment disc, the winding height needs to be adjusted simultaneously with the 15 screws so as not to change the neck height. Therefore, trouble is caused in operation. The operator must adjust the height of each neck and the winding height. This also causes trouble in operation. When continuously sewing buttons with different neck heights or winding heights, the operator must adjust the height of each button individually, which also causes trouble in operation. 20 In addition, when sewing a crank button with a conventional machine, the operator must adjust the button chuck by loosening the screw, which also causes trouble in operation. Therefore, an object of the present invention is to prepare a button neck winding machine that can set the neck height and the winding height without requiring complicated operations. Another object of the present invention is to provide a button neck winding machine, which can easily change the neck height and the length of the neck when continuously sewing in a sewing cycle with different buttons having the same neck height or winding height. Winding height. Another object of the present invention is to provide a button neck winding machine which can easily change its height position according to the details of a crank button. 5 Another object of the present invention is to provide a button neck winding machine which can easily change its height position according to the shape of a button to be sewn. [Summary of the Problem] [Means for Solving the Problems] In order to solve the above problems, the present invention is provided with a button neck winding sewing machine. According to the first feature of the present invention 10, as shown in Figs. 1 to 3, the button neck winding machine (10) has a button holder (20) that can rotate about a horizontally disposed rotation axis 22o. , So that a button (BU) supported by a button chuck 21 on the button holder can change the horizontal and vertical position. The machine sews the buttons on a cloth with the buttons set in the horizontal position, and then winds the stitches between the buttons and the cloth 15 with the buttons set in the vertical position. The machine includes a motor (22) for driving the button chuck to change the height of the cloth to the button, a setting device (40) for setting the operating height of each sewing button and the winding neck, and displaying A display device (90) for setting data is used to control a motor (70) for controlling the motor according to the setting data, so that the button chuck is positioned at a desired height in each sewing button and neck winding operation. 20 According to the first embodiment of the present invention, the operator can clearly see the height data in the sewing button and neck winding operation on the display panel to increase work efficiency. If it is only necessary to change the interval in the winding operation, only the interval in the winding operation is changed without changing the interval in the sewing button operation, thereby increasing work efficiency. In addition, the button chuck is driven by only one motor, which makes the mechanism compact. 8 200307775 At the same time, the above-mentioned setting data is completed by rotating data on the operation panel on the one hand, and reading the desired data stored in the data table of the memory (RAM, ROM, etc.) on the other hand. Data about two degrees can be defined as the distance from the button to the cloth, or the distance from the center of the rotating shaft 5 to the button, but the former is better for improving work efficiency. Alternatively, the distance from the cloth to the button can be set for one of the above two operations, and the distance can be set for other operations. In the first embodiment of the present invention, the machine 10 includes a motor, a setting device for setting a cloth to a button in a neck winding operation, and a motor for controlling the motor, and determines whether to perform the sewing button operation according to the setting data according to 10 The height enables the button chuck to be positioned at a desired height during button sewing and neck winding operations. According to the second embodiment of the present invention, since the setting operation only sets the distance from the cloth to the button, the setting operation is simplified. The height in the sewing button (the distance from the cloth to the button) can be calculated by calculating the distance from the cloth to the button during the operation of the neck winding 15 threads, or reading a data from the memory (RAM, ROM floppy disk, etc.) The corresponding height of the table is determined by selecting the latter height. The data table stores the previous height corresponding to the next height. In the third embodiment of the present invention, the height of the button sewing set by the setting device is calculated. 20 According to the third embodiment of the present invention, in addition to the effects of the second embodiment, the machine does not need to have all the height data during the sewing of buttons, so the data capacity can be reduced. In a fourth embodiment of the present invention, the machine further includes a correction device (70) for correcting the height during the sewing of the button, as shown in Figs. 1 to 3. 9 200307775 According to the fourth embodiment of the present invention, in addition to the effects of the second embodiment, the machine can obtain the desired feeling or appearance by correction. For example, if a sewn product still has a bad appearance of being sunken, in the process of sewing a button, the sunken problem can be solved by increasing the height by 1¾ degrees higher than that in the process of neck winding to achieve the desired appearance. 5 In a fifth embodiment of the present invention, the machine includes a motor, such as the setting device (41) of the first embodiment, a memory device (71, 73) for storing height data corresponding to several buttons, and A control device (72) for controlling the motor based on the height data of each button continuously read from the memory. According to the fifth embodiment of the present invention, the machine can continuously sew two or more buttons according to the corresponding height data stored in the memory 10 by using a motor to control the to degree of the buttons during the sewing and neck winding processes. . In other words, the machine can automatically sew buttons continuously to achieve a sewing cycle, and it is not necessary to set the height for each button during the sewing and neck winding process, thereby simplifying the operation. In a sixth embodiment of the present invention, as shown in FIG. M4, the machine includes 15 a motor, a selecting device for selecting a crank button or other buttons, and if the crank button is selected for controlling the motor to sew the crank button Control device (70). According to the sixth embodiment of the present invention, the machine can easily and simultaneously achieve the neck winding operation of the crank button. In a seventh embodiment of the present invention, as shown in Figs. 1 to 14, the machine 20 includes a motor for supplying a button loader (50) from a button to a button chuck for storing a supply A memory device (73) 'from position data to a supply position on the button chuck and a control device (70) adapted to control the motor based on the supply position data. According to a seventh embodiment of the present invention, the supply position may be at Button chuck side adjustment 10 200307775 without adjusting the supply position on the button side, so that the button can be continuously and easily supplied to the button chuck from a fixed supply position maintained by the supply loader. [Brief description of the drawings] Fig. 1 is a schematic block diagram showing the entire configuration of a button neck winding 5-thread sewing machine according to the present invention; the second circle shows a button supported on a button support unit and The positional relationship between the cloth and the button on which the button is sewn on the first machine; The third circle is a three-dimensional unit supporting the entire structure of the teacher support unit in the machine; Bottom view of the-button chuck on the button holder unit of 3 ；; and a cross-sectional view of a top end of one of the chuck arms of the horse button chuck, and the plane of one of the chuck fingers removed from the chuck arm Round; Clip 15 20 Head support Hi is a heart support pure buckle. The head support machine in the 313 button unit is shown in the figure above. The side view of a button loader on the machine is shown in Figure 9: The flat circle of a button loader on the machine is one of the display parts of a button loader that is not installed on the machine. The sewing on the wire is as simple as one button! Go to the cloth and complete her ^ The 16th® is required for a sewing cycle in the machine of the present invention No. 11 200307775 Example; Figure π is a perspective view showing the main parts of a conventional button neck winding machine; Figure 18 shows the method for sewing buttons with a conventional machine (a) is a button during the process of button sewing 5 The state of the chuck, (b) is a plan view in (a) state, and (c) is a plan view showing the state of the button chuck during the winding process of the button neck; FIG. 19 shows the state of button sewing of the conventional machine; It is a side view showing the state of the suture in the i8 (c) picture, and (b) is a side view showing a state in which the button neck has a completed height in the state (a). 10 [Back application method] [ Embodiment of the invention] A detailed description will be given below with reference to the drawings and one embodiment of the present invention. Referring to Fig. 1, a button neck winding sewing machine 10 includes a sewing portion u, a button support unit 20, a feeding mechanism. 30, an operation panel (input device, setting 15 device) 40, a button loader 50, a button load driver 60, a control box 70, a solenoid valve 80 and a display 90. The sewing section 11 has a needle, a ring Circulator, and torso Move the sewing button of the looper to the cloth, thread through the buttonhole on the button, and wind the button neck. 20 Referring to Figures 1-3, the holder unit 20 is connected to a rotating shaft 220 (see Figure 2) ), The shaft is the same as the conventional button holder unit, can be rotated and horizontally mounted on a machine ship. The rotation of the shaft 220 can change the button on the unit 20 to a horizontal or vertical position relative to the cloth So that the button is sewed on it. The holder unit 20 has a button chuck 2 for supporting the button BU and a chuck south adjustment motor 22 for moving the cool head 21 12 200307775 up and down. The shaft 220 and as An air cylinder (not shown) of a chuck swinging device is connected, and the driving of the air cylinder causes the unit 20 to swing around the shaft 220 to position the button in a horizontal or vertical position relative to the cloth. In this embodiment, the shaft 220, the air cylinder, and the supporter unit 20 correspond to the shaft of the conventional machine, the air cylinder 7 and the supporter unit 4 except for the height of the supporter unit 5. of. The button holder unit 20 will be described in detail below with reference to FIGS. 3 to 6. The unit 20 includes a button chuck 21, a chuck height adjustment motor 22, and a chuck support portion 23 for removably supporting one of the chucks 21. 10 The chuck 21 supporting the button BU at the sewing position has a chuck body 211 connected to the support portion 23, and chuck arms 212 and 213 provided on the body 211, and the arm can slide forward and backward relative to the body. The arms 212 and 213 are horizontally arranged in parallel and slidably fit the two grooves 211b and 211a on the rear surface of the body 211. Here, the arm 212 is longer than the 15 arm 213 in the moving direction. Collet fingers 217 ′ 218 facing each other are connected to the top ends of the arms, so that the buttons are relaxed from the sides. Referring to Fig. 4, a rotating plate 215 is rotatably mounted around a shaft 214 below the main body 211. The plate 215 has narrow holes 215a, 215b in the diameter direction on both sides of the shaft 214, and the holes 215a, 215b are respectively engaged with the bolts 213P and 212P protruding from the near 20 ends of the arms 213, 212, respectively. In this combination, the plate 215 prevents the arms 212, 213 from moving out of the grooves 211b, 211a, and the rotation of the plate 215, which operates the holes 215a, 215b on the bolts 213P, 212P, moves the arms 213, 212 along the grooves 211a, 211b Therefore, the finger portions 218, 217 can be separated or approached from each other. 13 200307775 In addition, a bolt 215c stands in the middle and below of the holes 215a and 215b, and a bolt 211c stands on top of an extension positioned on the lower left of the body 211. The bolts 215c and 211c are supported by a spring 216 (Driving elements). The spring 216 always drives the plate 215 to rotate in the clockwise direction. 5 In other words, the spring always drives the chuck fingers 217 and 218 to hold the button firmly. Here, the flat plate 215 is connected to a chuck action lever 241, which will be described below. The chuck fingers 217 and 218 are removably mounted on the arms 212 and 213 according to the shape of the button to be sewn, respectively. 10 As shown in Fig. 5 (a), in addition to the clamp body, the finger portions 217, 218 have mounting shafts 2121a, 2131a in the mounting holes 2121a, 2131 to be inserted into the arms 212, 213, respectively. The erection shafts 217a, 218a have grooves on their peripheries, which cooperate with the protrusions 2121b, 2131b, and the protrusions can be moved in and out on the 15 walls within the erection holes 2121a, 2131a, respectively. The projections 2121b, 2131b protrude from the walls of the holes 2121a, 2131a, and are moved in and out by the springs 2121c, 2131c in the radial direction of the holes. With this configuration, the finger portions 217 and 218 can be connected to the holder frames 2121 and 2131, respectively, and can be removed therefrom. The chuck fingers 217, 218 have opposite cutouts (not shown) on the clip body, 20 to match the periphery of the button, so that the portion of the button caught by the cutout can maintain the height of the bottom surface of the button. The chuck supporting mechanism 23 for supporting a button chuck that can be moved up and down will be described below. The height of the button neck is determined by positioning the chuck 21 at a predetermined height by moving up and down. 14 200307775 The support mechanism 23 includes a chuck height adjustment motor 22, a bottom 231 fixed to the motor, and a height action bottom 245 mounted on the bottom 231 and movable up and down. The height adjustment motor 22 is connected by a motor. A pulse motor driven by a signal supplied from a wire 101. On the top end of the motor shaft, a height drive gear 22a is fixed by a gear screw 22b. The motor 22 is fixed to a motor adjustment plate 232 having a hole through which the gear 22a can pass by a screw set 232a. The bottom 231 has a U-shaped body, and the motor 22 is mounted on the bottom 231 through the flat plate 232 10 by the screws 102, so that the gear 22 a passes horizontally from the bottom back to the inside of the U-shaped body. A neck height driving shaft 233 is provided on the bottom 231 that can be moved up and down. The shaft 233 is inserted into the shaft 15 bearing 231d mounted on the shaft holes of an upper bottom 231b and a lower bottom 231c, and each end is fixed with an e-ring 233b to prevent the shaft 233 from leaving the bottom 231. The bearing 231d is fixed to the bottom 231 on the upper bottom 231b and the lower bottom 231c by a screw set 231e. There is a frame 233a on the shaft 233, which meshes with a gear 22a arranged in the U-shaped bottom 231. In this combination, the rotation of the motor 22 causes the shaft 233 to move up and down. 20 In addition, a guide shaft 235 is disposed between the upper bottom 231b and the lower bottom 231c in the upper and lower directions, and is parallel to the driving shaft 233. Here, the drive shaft 233 and the guide shaft 235 are both greased to make the components in contact with them slide smoothly. The bottom 231 is further provided with a neck height source sensor 236 to detect the original height of the button neck when the driving shaft 233 moves. 15 200307775 A high-movement bottom 245 is fixed to the shaft 233 with a screw set 245a extending horizontally for uniform action. A slider 246 is fixed to one end of the action bottom 245, and it slides on the guide shaft 235. When the driving shaft 233 is up and down relative to the bottom, the sliding of the slider 246 along the guide shaft 235 5 can prevent the driving shaft 233 and the operating bottom 245 from rotating. The action bottom 245 is provided with a calibration bolt 237 for positioning the button chuck 21 horizontally extending thereon. At the top of the bolt 237 is a shaft tip 238a of a collet lever 238 fixed with a screw. The bolt 237 is inserted into the proximal surface of the collet body 211, and the shaft 10 of the collet lever 238 is inserted through a hole in a mounting member 211d on the collet body 211. The threaded connection between the top end 238a and the bolt 237 allows the button chuck 21 to be fixed to the action bottom 245. The action bottom 245 is provided by a cylinder mounting plate 240 to open and close a cylinder 239 of the chuck fingers 217,218. The cylinder 239 erected below the plate 240 has a cylinder rod 239a which can be moved forward and backward. The lever 239a has a chuck action lever 241 on the top end, a circular cutout 241a on the lever 241, and the lever engages a pin 215c (see FIG. 4) standing on the rotating plate. The cylinder 239 is driven The fingers 217, 218 are caused to move to pinch or release the buttons. 20 A sensor plate 242 is set above the mounting plate 240 to be detected by the original sensor 236. That is, the original height of the button chuck 21 moving with the action bottom 245 is detected based on the movement of the drive shaft 233. At the same time, the rotating shaft 220 is inserted into a hole 231f below the bottom 231 and fixed therein. In the operation of the button holder unit 20 described above, the driving of the motor 22 causes the gear 16 200307775 22a to rotate, and transmits the rotation to the driving shaft 233, which moves the shaft 233 up and down. Then, the operating base 245 fixed to the shaft 233 moves up and down. The vertical movement of the base 245 causes the button chuck 21 connected to the base 245 to rise or fall. Since the frame 233a and the gear 22a are used to move the chuck 21 up and down in a range of about 5 to 30 mm, the movement of the conventional cam 3 mm is obviously much larger. This large range of movement allows sewing buttons to a cloth higher in height than a conventional one, and can sew buttons with different necks within 30mm in height. The feed mechanism 30 is almost the same as the conventional button neck winding machine, which is synchronized with the movement of a needle and a looper. The mechanism 30 includes a feed frame 31, a sewing depth adjustment motor 10, a R-axis feed motor 33 (for moving the frame 31 in a radial direction), and a · -axis feed motor (for an arc) Frame in the direction of movement), the 1-axis and · _-axis feed motor moves the feed frame 31 to a predetermined position corresponding to a sewing position, and supports a folding cloth so that the feed frame 31 on which the buttons are sewn has a The tongue 15 of the plate 15 (see FIG. 2) is used for positioning the up-and-down movement path of the folded cloth to the needle, and a cloth receiving plate 312 which supports the cloth together with the tongue 311. The sewing depth adjustment motor 32 changes the position of the receiving plate 312, so that the sewing depth can be changed relative to the horizontal displacement of the folding cloth in the up and down movement path of the needle. The operation panel (setting device) 40 includes, for example, a ten-key switch for inputting the height of the button neck and predetermined data including the height. This data is input from the operation panel 40 to the control box 70. The button loader 50 will be described below with reference to Figs. 7-9. The button loader 50 automatically supplies the buttons to be sewn to the chuck fingers 217 and 218 to improve operation efficiency. The loader 50, as shown in Figures 7 and 8, is configured with 17 200307775 on the side of the machine at a predetermined distance from the sewing position (needle entry position). The loader 50 includes a bottom plate 61 fixed to the machine body, one bottom plate 61 disposed on the bottom plate 61 and rotatably mounted in a horizontal direction, a bottom 62, a sliding arm 63 capable of moving forward and backward relative to the bottom 62, and a bracket One button on the slide arm 63 supports 5 sections 64. An air cylinder 65 is fixed on the bottom plate 61 having a long horizontal surface above. The rotating bottom 62 is rotatable about a rotating shaft 66, and the rotating shaft is vertically mounted on the bottom plate 61, and is connected to the cylinder 65 on the plate 61 via a link 67. That is, the driving of the 10 cylinder 65 causes the rotation of the rotating bottom 62 relative to the bottom 61. The sliding arm 63 is connected to the proximal end of the rotating base 62 by a stepped screw 63a engaged with a small hole 62a in the base 62. The sliding of the screw 63a along the fine hole 62a allows the arm 63 to slide relative to the rotation base 62. The sliding arm 63 is also connected to the top of the FAW 15 cylinder rod 68a of an air cylinder 68 fixed on the rotating bottom 62. The driving of the cylinder 68 generates a piston action of the rod 68a in the parallel direction of the movement of the arm 63, The arm 63 is moved in the direction indicated by the arrow in the figure. A button support portion 64 is mounted on the top of the slide arm 63 to support the button 0 horizontally. In the above combination, the cylinder 65, the rotation shaft 66, the connecting rod 67, the rotation bottom 62, the 20 cylinder 68, and the slide arm 63 constitute a sister. Buckle loader drive section 60. The ratcheting portion 60 allows the button loader 50 (and the button support portion 64) to move back and forth and swing. Therefore, as shown in FIG. 8, the support portion 64 is moved to a supply position SP shown by a dotted line by the rotation of the bottom 62 and the sliding movement of the arm 63. In other words, the button loader 50 is controlled in such a manner that the button on the next sew must be supplied to the clip 18 200307775 The head formations 217, 218 can clamp the button to sew it to the position certificate on the cloth. The control box (control device) 70 basically includes ROM 71, RAM 73, and CPU 72 to perform different operations according to the program. The ROM 71 (memory device) 71 has previously stored a program for controlling the sewing machine and data used in the program. 5 RAM (memory device) 73 stores the data read from ROM 71, the data is turned on or set from the operation panel 40, and the data is calculated by cpu (control device) according to the program. For example, the ROM 71 stores a program to perform the steps such as the neck height and the winding height of the button neck winding part set by the rCPU, and the operation of the sewing button, which will be described in detail below. The MM 73 stores control data, such as the sewing data of the winding button neck shown in Figure 16, and the program used to perform the operating steps. The CPU 72 is connected to the operation panel 40 through an interface not shown to select or change control data based on the input data of the operation panel 40. The CPU 72 also has an interface with a servo motor drive circuit to drive the main axis servo 15 motor of the sewing section. The control of the rotation of the servo motor controls the needle, the looper, and the drive mechanism of the needle, the looper, and the spreader including an upper shaft and a lower shaft. The CPU 72 also has an interface with the drive circuit to drive the 1-axis feed motor (pulse motor) 33. The shaft feed motor (pulse motor) 34 and the sewing depth adjustment motor 32 control the feed motion in the R and • directions , And the action of adjusting the depth of the sewing button. 20 CPU 72 has an interface with a pulse motor drive circuit to drive a pulse motor to rotate the needle and the bottom of a looper during button stitching and neck winding operations. The CPU 72 also has an interface with the solenoid valve 80 to drive the button loader driving section (cylinder 65, 68, etc.) to move up and down, and swing the button loader 50. The CPU 72 also controls each of the starters on the button holder unit 20 through a solenoid valve 80, such as an air cylinder of the swing unit 20, a cylinder 239 of the chuck 21, and a height adjustment motor. The following will describe a winding height calculated by the CPU 72 using a mathematical formula and a winding height, which is a completed winding height, with reference to FIG. 2. 5 In the following, P represents the distance between the buttonholes, S is the depth of the button, T is the distance from the cloth to the button when the button neck is wound (hereinafter referred to as the completion height, and T1 is the self-rotation when the button is sewn. The distance from the center of the shaft 220 to the button (hereinafter referred to as the neck height), T2 is the distance from the shaft 220 to the button when the button neck is wound (hereinafter referred to as' burning wire height ♦), T3 is the cloth and The distance between the centers of the rotating shaft 220 (referred to as ★ offset value 10 below). B is the button thickness and ， is the buttonhole diameter. First, the neck height T1 is calculated from the completed height T. If RT represents the completed height T The required length of a coil, then RT = 2 (P + B + T + S + 2S5) (1) Assume that S 'is almost equal to s. 15 The length of the entire loop when the button is sewn is PH + 2B + T1 + J ( P. H / 2. S) 2. (71. S) 2 ⑵ determines that formula (1) is equal to formula (2), rt: p H + 2B + t1 + ff / 2. s) 2. (n Good if replaced by χ = ιιΤ · Ρ + Η_2B, and Y == P H / 2 S, then the above formula is XTia (π. sy squares this binomial 20 200307775 y2 v2 β 2〇S. Using formula (3), the neck height T1 can be obtained from the predetermined completion height T. Therefore, the appropriate neck height T1 is set by moving the button chuck 21 to the height T1. Next, the displacement between the neck height T1 and the winding height T2 is calculated by the following formula. 5 · · T2, and T2 = T · T3 (4) Replace formula (3) with T1, and the displacement can be obtained from the predetermined completion height T. The button chuck 2Ϊ is moved by the displacement and self-height T1, and the winding height T2 is set when the neck is wound, so that the height from the cloth to the button can be established to complete the height T when the head is wound. If the chuck 21 is swung to the winding position 10 in the machine of the embodiment, when the neck is wound, the deviation from the cloth to the button becomes longer than the neck height T1 due to the offset value T3, resulting in a cloth quilt. Pull the line up. The operation of the machine for sewing buttons to cloth will be described below with reference to Figs. 11 to 14. The method starts from Fig. 11 to start the machine at step S1. In step S2, the CPU sends a signal to all the drivers to return to their original points, and the method goes to decision step S3, checks each sensor to detect the operating status of each driver, and checks each actuator's return. To its original point. If yes, the method proceeds to step S5, if not (not normal), the method proceeds to step S6, which indicates an error on a display, and moves to step S7 to turn off the power, and then proceeds to step S8, which is released and The error is stored and the method moves back to step S1. 20 In step S5, different sewing materials are input from the operation panel 40, and the process proceeds to step S9. These data are the completion height τ, the buttonhole diameter Η, the distance between the buttonholes P, the button thickness B, the button depth s, a button option (flat button, or crank button 21 200307775, etc.), a button conversion height S, Sewing speed and so on. Step S9 checks whether a crank button is selected. If yes, the method proceeds to step S10, and if not, proceeds to step S11. [Sister button of non-crank button] In step S11, the CPU calculates the neck height T1 according to the input data and the control program according to the above equation (3), and calculates the winding height T2 according to the formula (4). The method proceeds to step S12. In step S12, the height adjustment motor 22 moves the button chuck up and down in accordance with the button switching height Tp input in step S5, and the chuck fingers 217, 218 hold the clamping buttons supplied from the button support section 64. Then, the method proceeds to decision step 10 S13. Step S13 checks whether the calculated value needs to be corrected. If so, the method proceeds to step S14, and if so, moves to step S15. In step S13, a decision is usually made after the test sewing which determines whether the value needs to be corrected. Step S14 adds correction values to the calculated values T1 and T2. The correction value is derived from the 15 elasticity of the part, etc. to obtain the completed height T, and is usually 0. Determined in 1mm steps. After the correction, the method proceeds to step S15. In step S15, the operator sets a cloth at a predetermined position, specifically, sets a folded cloth between the tongue 311 and the cloth receiving plate 312 (see FIG. 2), and then proceeds to step S16. Step S16 locks the tongue 311. Then, the method proceeds to step S17 to turn on the 20-cloth setting switch (not shown), moves to step S18, starts a press device (not shown), and then proceeds to step S19. In step S19, the height adjustment motor 22 moves the button chuck 21 to the neck height T1. Thereafter, the method proceeds to step S20. The chuck 21 is moved to the sewing start position, and the process proceeds to a decision step S21. 22 200307775 Step S21 Check whether the setting button is on. If yes, the method proceeds to step S22 to release the cloth and return to step S15 to set the cloth, otherwise, proceeds to step S23 to turn on a sewing start switch, and step S24 uses a needle and a looper to perform button sewing. The button sewing is completed by cutting the neckline end in step S25, and then the method proceeds to step S26. In step S26, the button supported on the holder unit 20 is swung by rotating the shaft 220 around its axis by 90 degrees, and the process proceeds to step S27. In step S27, a displacement is calculated, and the button chuck 21 is moved to the winding height T2 according to the displacement and then the neck winding sewing is performed on the sewing portion 11 in step S28. The neck-winding sewing is completed by cutting the winding end in step S29, and then the process proceeds to step S30. In step S30, the button-stitched cloth is released, and in step S31, the feeding mechanism 30 is moved to a button accommodation position (level with the button supply position), that is, the chuck 21 is moved to the button supply position SP, while the feed mechanism moves to the 15-button accommodating position. Next, the chuck 21 moves to the chuck transition height Tp in step S32, and then, the chuck fingers 217, 218 receive a button from the button loader in step S33, and then the method returns to step S13 to Repeat the following steps until the button sewing is finished. 20 [Crank button] If a crank button is selected in step S9, the method proceeds to step S10 to calculate a winding height T2, and enters the CPU 72 to add a crank button conversion value • to T2 (T2 = Τ2 + ·), step S35, Then, the process proceeds to step S36. In step S36, the chuck 21 is adjusted to a conversion height Tp to accommodate a button, and proceeds to a decision step 23 200307775 S37 to check whether the calculated value needs to be corrected. If yes, the method proceeds to step S38, and if not, moves to step S39. Step S38 adds correction values to the calculated values T2 and Tp. The correction value is obtained by the elasticity of the cloth, etc. to obtain the completed height T, and is usually at o. decided in imm step. After the correction, the method proceeds to step S39. In step S39, the operator sets a cloth at a predetermined position, in particular, sets a folded cloth to be sewn between the tongue 311 and the cloth receiving plate 312. Then, the process proceeds to step S41, and the tongue is locked. Thereafter, the method proceeds to step S41 to turn on a cloth setting switch (not shown), moves to step S42, starts a press device (not shown), and then proceeds to step S43. In step S43, the button chuck 21 is moved to the winding height T2, and thereafter the method 10 proceeds to step S45 'where the button supported on the holder unit 20 is rotated by 90 degrees around its axis by the rotating shaft 220 While swinging, it proceeds to step S46 to move the chuck 21 to the sewing start position. Then, decision step S47 checks whether the switch is set to be on. If the setting switch is on, the method proceeds to step S48 to release the cloth and 15 returns to step S39 to set the cloth again, otherwise, proceeds to step S49 to turn on a sewing start switch (not shown) and proceeds to step S50 to execute Button sewing, after which the method proceeds to step S51, and neck winding sewing on the sewing section 11 is performed. In step S52, the sewing of the neck winding is completed after cutting off the winding end, and the process proceeds to step S53 to release the button-sewn cloth, and the process proceeds to step S54. In step S54, the feeder 20 is moved to a button accommodating position, that is, the movement of the feed mechanism moved to the button accommodating position allows the chuck 21 to be horizontally moved to the button supply position sp. Next, the chuck 21 moves to the chuck transition height Tp in step S55, and then the chuck fingers 217, 218 receive a button from the button loader in step S56, and return to step S37 to repeat the following Steps until the end of button sewing is 24 200307775. [Operation of Button Loader] The operation of the button loader will be described below, which is performed by the method of button sewing and the above-mentioned neck winding. After step S13 / S14 or S37 / S38, the method proceeds to step S57 simultaneously with step S15 or S39. Step S57 drives the button 50 to the waiting position, where the operator can set a button on the loader 50 (the button is set in the standby state), and the button is supported on the button support portion 64 in step S58 (the button is preset) Then, the method goes to step 10: S33 or S56. Step S33 or S56 branches to step S59. Step S59 retracts the cylinder rod 68a to return to the support portion 64 from the button receiving position. Thereafter, in step S60, the cylinder 65 is driven to rotate toward the machine side about the center of the rotation shaft 66. Step S61 drives the cylinder 68 to advance the support portion 64 to change the button, and then the loader 50 is withdrawn from the sewing work area, and the method proceeds to step S13 15 or 337. In the above embodiment, the operation panel 40 is used as a data setting device, and a data table is optionally stored in a memory such as a ROM or a RAM. For example, the completed heights T, 20mm, 15mm, and 10mm can be entered into the memory in large (L), medium (M), and small (S), respectively. When one of the data L, M's is selected via the panel 40, the corresponding completed height can be read from the memory 'and created. 20 o'clock In this embodiment, the completed height T is a specified desired height, but, as a matter of course, the neck height T1 and the winding height T can also be directly turned in. In this example, as shown in FIG. 10, the panel 40 may have a display 90 to display the input neck height and the winding height, and the operation key 41 is used to change its value. In terms of this combination, each 25 200307775 height can be established by the operation of the corresponding key 41 indicated by the up and down arrows, where the dots appearing between the display parts represent decimal points, and the unit is mm. Alternatively, the height of each neck and the winding height can be input as the distance between one cloth and one button, as long as the height of each button chuck can be set to the desired value according to the input data of 5 during sewing and neck winding sewing. Just height. With this combination, the operator can recognize the neck height and the winding height on the display 9. [Sewing cycle] The button neck winding machine of this embodiment uses a computer to control the sewing mechanism so as to have a high degree of flexibility in setting the completed height. If the machine has sewing data stored in RAM73 as shown in the 16th circle, the machine can continuously read the data stored according to a sewing cycle command and execute the sewing cycle. The item represents the input data required for a sewing cycle, and the horizontally-added line item represents the sewing position (the position to be sewn). The sewing position (N) is represented by four positions for the convenience of explanation. The second button is below the clothes. The second button and the first twist button have different sewing depths due to the thickness of the fabric. The sewing of the third button applies a decorative button (crank button) At the front. This decorative button does not connect with a buttonhole, so it does not need a high winding height, and because of the fabric thickness of 20 decorative positions, its sewing depth is different from the first and second buttons. As far as the third button is sewn The height adjustment motor 22 is driven to adjust the winding height. The fourth button sewing is applied to an inner bag. The size of the button is smaller than the first to the third buttons, and the sewing pattern is a button with two holes. The depth of the buttons is also different. It is best to prepare a double button loader, and a load 26 200307775 can be selected according to the sewing pattern. In this embodiment, the button loader is suspended, so that the buttons can be manually set. So Because the machine according to the present invention can change the height of the winding during the sewing process, the 'sewing cycle can be achieved by the operator for a third button sewing, but it is easy to achieve without disturbing the machine 5. In addition, a single unit of the present invention Sewing machine can be used for flexible loops, including different types of buttons, such as front buckles, decorative buckles (crank buckles), sleeve buckles, inner buckles, shoulder buckles, etc. That is, a garment can be completed in only one cycle Sewing of buttons. In addition, even if the buttons have different sizes, they can be completed in one sewing cycle 10, thereby increasing the effectiveness of the sewing operation. Column shape, and then the slender column can be used for winding. This method results in a more consistent and strong button neck winding. [Simple illustration of the drawing] 15 Fig. 1 is a schematic block diagram showing the entire configuration of a button neck winding sewing machine according to the present invention; Fig. 2 shows a button supported on a button holder unit and sewing the button with the machine of Fig. 1 The positional relationship between a cloth on it; the third circle is a three-dimensional circle supporting the entire structure of the button holder unit 20 in the machine; the fourth circle is a circle on the button holder unit of the third circle The bottom view of the button chuck, No. 5 is a cross-sectional view of a top end of a chuck arm of the button chuck, and a plan view of a finger portion of the chuck removed from the chuck arm; 27 200307775 Figure 6 is A sectional perspective view of the button unit head supporting mechanism used to support the button chuck in Figure 3; Figure 7 shows the upside-down handle of a button loader displayed on the machine; Figure 8 shows the installation on the machine Plane of the previous button loader 囷: Figure 9 shows the figure of a button loader installed on the machine! No. 10 圏 shows an example of a display portion mounted on the machine; 'U to U. 14 are diagrams showing the rippling of the windings on the machine according to the present invention; The figure shows an example of sewing a button on a cloth by the machine of the present invention and completing a button; Figure 16 of the winding of the neck is an example of the data required for a sewing cycle in the machine of the present invention; Shows a perspective view of the main parts of a conventional button neck winding machine; 15 Figure 18 shows the method of sewing buttons with a conventional machine (a) is the state of a button chuck during button sewing, (1 >) Is a plan view in the & state, and (c) is a plan view showing the state of the button chuck during the winding process of the button neck; the 19th line shows the button sewing state of the conventional machine; (a) the i8 line is displayed (c) A side view of the state of the suture in the figure, and (b) is a side view showing the state where the button crotch has a completed 20 degree height in the state (a). [Representative symbols for the main components of the diagram] 4 Support unit 5 pin 6 Shaft 1 Tongue 2 Support plate 3 Button chuck 28 200307775 7 Cylinder 64 Support 8 disk 65 Cylinder 10 Button neck winding machine 66 Shaft 11 Sewing section 67 Rod 20 Holder unit 68 Cylinder 21 Button chuck 68a Rod 22 Motor 70 Control device 22a Gear 71 Memory device 22b Screw 72 CPU 23 Collet support 73 Memory device 30 Feed mechanism 80 Solenoid valve 31 Feed frame 90 Display 32 motor 101 wire 33 motor 102 screw 34 pulse motor 211 chuck body 40 operation panel 211a groove 41 setting device 211b groove 50 loader 211c plug 60 driver 212 chuck arm 61 bottom plate 212p chute 62 bottom 213 chuck arm 62a thin Hole 213p Bolt 63 Slide arm 214 Shaft 63a Screw 215 Plate 29 200307775 215a Hole 238a Shaft top 215b Hole 239 Cylinder 215c Bolt 239a Cylinder rod 216 Spring 240 Plate 217 Collet finger 241 Lever 217a Mounting shaft 241a Cutout 218 Chuck finger Section 242 Sensor plate 218a Erection shaft 245 bottom 220 shaft 245a screw set 231 bottom 246 slider 231b upper bottom 311 tongue 231c lower bottom 312 plate 23 Id bearing 2121 support frame 231e screw set 2121a hole 23 If hole 2121b projection 232 motor adjustment plate 2121c spring 232a screw set 2131 support frame 233 drive shaft 2131a hole 233a frame 2131b projection 233b Ring 2131c Spring 235 Guide shaft SI Power on 236 Sensor S2 Return to original position 237 Calibration bolt S3 Normally proceed 238 Lever S5 Enter sewing data 30 200307775 56 Display error 57 Close 58 Release error and store 59 Crank button? 510 Calculate T2 511 Calculate Ti, T2 512 Set a button to transmit height 513 Need to be corrected? 514 Add correction value 515 Setting cloth 516 Lock tongue 517 Turn on the setting switch 518 Start a press 519 Move the height of the small-mouth chuck head Γ1 S20 Return to the sewing start point S21 Set switch on? S22 remove cloth S23 open start switch S24 start sewing button S25 trimming end S26 swing button 90 S27 move button chuck to winding height T2 S28 start neck winding S29 cut thread end S30 remove the stitched cloth S31 move button Chuck to button supply position S32 Move button chuck to height% S33 Send a button S35 Calculate Τ2 = Τ2 + S3 6 to transmit height setting ^ — slave ^ mouth S37 need to be corrected? S38 plus correction value S39 setting cloth S40 locking tongue S41 opening setting switch S42 starting a press S43 moving the button chuck to the winding height Τ2 S45 sewing button S46 back to the sewing start point S47 setting switch on? S48 remove cloth S49 open start switch S50 start sewing button S51 start neck winding S52 cut thread end 31 200307775 S53 remove the sewn cloth S57 button ready state S54 move button chuck to button supply S58 preset one button position S59 After moving, the support section S55 moves the button chuck to the height Tp S60 swings the button loader to the machine side S56 sends a button S61 forward and evacuates the button loader 32