JP6161666B2 - Knitted garment and manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents

Knitted garment and manufacturing method thereof Download PDF

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JP6161666B2
JP6161666B2 JP2015152465A JP2015152465A JP6161666B2 JP 6161666 B2 JP6161666 B2 JP 6161666B2 JP 2015152465 A JP2015152465 A JP 2015152465A JP 2015152465 A JP2015152465 A JP 2015152465A JP 6161666 B2 JP6161666 B2 JP 6161666B2
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knitting
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body part
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明 堀川
明 堀川
章 宮下
章 宮下
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株式会社堀川ニット
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Description

この発明は、襟や袖ぐりにいわゆる襟ゴムや脇ゴム等の付属編（以下単に「付属編」ともいう）を有するセーターやベスト等のニット製衣服に関し、詳細には、かかる付属編の基端縁に沿って袋編部を備えたニット製衣服、及びその製造方法に関する。   The present invention relates to a knit garment such as a sweater or a vest having an accessory knitting such as a so-called collar rubber or armpit rubber (hereinafter also simply referred to as “accessory knitting”) on a collar or a sleeve, and more specifically, the base of the accessory knitting. The present invention relates to a knitted garment having a bag knitted portion along an edge, and a manufacturing method thereof.

従来、横編地からなるセーターやベストは、襟ぐりや袖ぐりの周囲に設けられる襟ゴムや脇ゴムと呼ばれる付属編が、広くリンキングという手法により縫着されている。このリンキングは、編地のループ１つずつに縫製糸を通しながら縫製する縫製方法で、襟ゴム等の付属編を身頃部に縫着する際には、付属編の基端部端縁に沿って、表編地と裏編地からなる袋編部を設けて付属編の横断面をＹ字やＵ字に形成し、この袋編部を挟み代として身頃部の襟ぐりや袖ぐりの端縁を挟んで縫着するものである（例えば、特許文献１の産業上の利用分野、及び従来の技術参照）。   Conventionally, in sweaters and vests made of flat knitted fabric, accessory knittings called collar rubber and side rubber provided around the neckline and armhole are widely sewn by a technique called linking. This linking is a sewing method in which sewing loops are threaded through each loop of the knitted fabric, and when the accessory knitting such as a collar rubber is sewn to the body part, it follows the edge of the base end of the accessory knitting. Then, a bag knitting part consisting of a front knitted fabric and a back knitted fabric is provided, and the cross section of the accessory knitting is formed in a Y-shape or U-shape. They are sewn together (see, for example, the industrial application field of Patent Document 1 and conventional technology).

ところが、リンキングによる縫製は、編地のループにリンキングマシンのポイント針を１つずつ通す技術の習得に多数の年月を要することから、近年では人材の確保が問題となっている。   However, in sewing by linking, it takes many years to acquire the technique of passing the point needles of the linking machine one by one through the loop of the knitted fabric. In recent years, securing human resources has become a problem.

一方、付属編としては挟み代としての袋編部を備えないものも広く用いられている。袋編部を備える付属編が重厚な高級感のある印象を与えるのに対し、袋編部を備えない付属編は、すっきりとしたシンプルな印象を与えるものであり、両者は、衣服のデザインにより使い分けがなされている。   On the other hand, an accessory that is not provided with a bag knitting portion as a pinch is also widely used. While the accessory knitting with the bag knitting part gives a profound and luxurious impression, the accessory knitting without the bag knitting part gives a clean and simple impression. Used properly.

この袋編部を備えない付属編は、一般に、かがり縫いにより身頃部に縫着されている。その縫着方法は、付属編の基端側に編成した折代部を内側に折り返し、付属編の本体部分と身頃部の間に折代部を挟んだ状態で、折線部に沿って、線状にミシン縫製を行うとともに、付属編と身頃部の端縁部をいわゆるオーバーロックミシンでかがり縫いするものであり、リンキングに比べて技術の習得が容易である。
そこで、本発明者は、袋編部を有する付属編についても、線状の縫製とかがり縫いにより身頃部に縫着する方法を開発すべく鋭意研究を重ねる。 The accessory knitting not provided with the bag knitting portion is generally sewn to the body portion by over stitching. The sewing method is to fold the folding margin part knitted on the base end side of the accessory knitting inward and sandwich the folding margin part between the main part and body part of the accessory knitting along the folding line part. The sewing machine is sewn in the shape of a sewing machine, and the edge of the accessory knitting and the body part is overlocked with a so-called overlock sewing machine, which makes it easier to learn the technique than linking.
Therefore, the present inventor has intensively studied to develop a method of sewing the accessory knitting having the bag knitting portion to the body portion by linear sewing and over stitching.

特開平２−２８３３９６号公報JP-A-2-283396

しかし、線状の縫製とかがり縫いで縫着する付属編に設けられる折代部は、天竺編みで編成すると先端が丸くなってその後の作業がやり辛くなるため、リブ編等、前後のニードルベッドを必要とする編成により形成される。すると、袋編部を備える付属編の場合、表編地に続く折代部と裏編地に続く折代部の両方にそれぞれ一対のニードルベッドを要するため、合計でニードルベットを２対備えた横編機が必要となるという問題が生じる。
本発明は、上記課題に鑑みてなされたものであり、袋編部を備えた付属編に前後一対のニードルベッドしか備えない横編み機であっても折代部を編成できるようにし、この折代部を用いて付属編を身頃部に対しかがり縫いしたニット製衣服の提供、及び、該ニット製衣服の製造方法の提供を目的とする。 However, the folding margin provided in the accessory knitting sewn by linear sewing and over-stitching makes the tip round when knitting with a tense knitting, making it difficult to perform the subsequent work. Formed by knitting. Then, in the case of the accessory knitting provided with the bag knitting portion, since a pair of needle beds are required for both the folding margin portion following the front knitted fabric and the folding margin portion following the back knitted fabric, two pairs of needle beds are provided in total. The problem arises that a flat knitting machine is required.
The present invention has been made in view of the above problems, and enables a folding portion to be knitted even in a flat knitting machine having only a pair of front and rear needle beds on an accessory knitting provided with a bag knitting portion. It is an object of the present invention to provide a knit garment in which an accessory knitting is stitched to the body part using the part and a method for producing the knitted garment.

上記課題を解決するためになされた発明は、身頃部の襟ぐり回り、又は袖ぐり回りに縫着される付属編が身頃部に縫着された端縁に沿って延びる帯状の袋編部を備えるニット製衣服であって、前記付属編は、前記袋編部に連続して一又は複数コースに編成された一枚編地からなる折線部と、前記折線部に連続した一枚編地からなり前記折線部で内側かつ袋編部側へ折り返された折代部とを備え、前記身頃部の襟ぐり回り、又は袖ぐり回りの端部と前記袋編部の間に前記折代部を挟んだ状態で、前記折線部に沿って前記袋編部の前記折線部側の端部に、又は折線部上に設けられた線状縫製線と、前記身頃部の襟ぐり回り、又は袖ぐり回りの端縁と前記折代部の端縁とを合わせて縁どるかがり縫いとにより前記身頃部と前記付属編が縫着されていることを特徴とする。
尚、ここで「線状縫製線」とは、環縫いや本縫い等による曲線状、又は直線状の縫製線をいうものとする。 The invention made in order to solve the above-mentioned problems includes a belt-shaped bag knitting portion that extends along an edge of an accessory knitted around the neckline of the body part or around the armhole part. A knit garment, wherein the accessory knitting is composed of a fold line portion made of a single knitted fabric continuously knitted into one or a plurality of courses, and a single knitted fabric continuous to the fold line portion. A folding margin portion that is folded back to the inner side and the bag knitting portion side at the fold line portion, and the folding margin portion is sandwiched between an end portion of the body part around the neckline or around the sleeve and the bag knitting portion In the state, along the fold line portion, the end of the bag knitted portion on the fold line portion side or on the fold line portion and the end of the body part around the neckline or the armhole The body part and the accessory knitting are sewn together by edge stitching of the edge and the edge of the folding margin part. It is characterized in.
Here, the “linear sewing line” refers to a curved or straight sewing line by chain stitching, main sewing or the like.

本発明に係るニット製衣服では、このように、折代部を一枚の編地とすることで、折代部を前後一対のニードルベットのみで編成することができる。また、付属編の身頃部に対する縫着を線状縫製線とかがり縫いとにより行うことで、特殊な技能を有さない作業者であっても容易に縫着を行うことができる。   In the knitted garment according to the present invention, the folding margin portion can be knitted only with a pair of front and rear needle beds by using the folding margin portion as a single knitted fabric. In addition, by performing sewing on the body part of the accessory knitting with a linear sewing line and over stitching, even an operator who does not have special skills can easily perform sewing.

前記袋編部は、表編地が裏編地より一又は複数コース多めに編成されていることが好ましい。本願のニット製衣服では、付属編の袋編部に身頃部の編地を挟み込まないため袋編部が膨らみに欠け意匠性に劣るという問題が有る。このように、表編地を裏編地より一又は複数コースだけ多めに編成することで、従来のリンキングによる縫着と同様に、袋編部に膨らみを持たせることができる。   The bag knitted portion is preferably knitted with one or more courses on the front knitted fabric than on the back knitted fabric. In the knitted garment of the present application, there is a problem that the knitted fabric of the body part is not sandwiched between the bag knitted part of the accessory knitted part and the bag knitted part lacks swelling and is inferior in design. In this way, by knitting the front knitted fabric one or more courses more than the back knitted fabric, the bag knitted portion can be swollen in the same manner as the conventional sewing by linking.

前記折線部は、熱収縮糸により編成されたコースを含むことが好ましい。こうすることで、熱収縮糸が加熱により収縮する性質を利用して、折線部をスチームアイロン等で加熱するだけで容易に折代部を折り曲げることができ、また折代部を折り曲げた状態を半永久的に維持することができる。   It is preferable that the bent line portion includes a course knitted with heat shrink yarn. By using this property, the heat shrinkable yarn can be easily shrunk by heating, so that the folding part can be easily folded just by heating the folded part with a steam iron or the like. It can be maintained semipermanently.

前記熱収縮糸により編成されたコースは、裏目の天竺編みを含むことが好ましい。熱収縮糸で編成するコースを天竺編みにすることで、リブ編等にする場合に比べて、折り曲げによる皺の発生を抑制することができ、また、裏目とすることで折代部を自動的に内側に折り曲げることができる。   The course knitted with the heat-shrinkable yarn preferably includes a reverse stitch knitting. Compared to rib knitting, etc., the course knitted with heat-shrinkable yarn can be used to suppress wrinkles due to bending, and the folding margin can be automatically set by using the back. Can be folded inward.

前記線状縫製線は、環縫いであることが好ましい。こうすることで、ニット製衣服の表側に現れる線状縫製線をチェーンステッチ状のリンキングに類似した縫製線とすることができる。   The linear sewing line is preferably a chain stitch. By doing so, the linear sewing line appearing on the front side of the knitted garment can be a sewing line similar to chain stitch-like linking.

本発明は、身頃部の襟ぐり回り、又は袖ぐり回りに縫着される付属編が身頃部に縫着された端縁に沿って延びる帯状の袋編部を備えるニット製衣服の製造方法であって、身頃部を形成する身頃部形成工程と、前記身頃部形成工程と並行又は前後して付属編を形成する付属編形成工程と、前記身頃部と前記付属編を縫着する付属編縫着工程とを備え、前記付属編形成工程は、前後一対のニードルベッドを備えた横編み機で前記付属編を編成する付属編編成工程と、前記付属編を折り曲げる付属編折り曲げ工程とを有し、前記付属編編成工程において、前編地と後編地からなる袋編部を編成し、続けて前記袋編部に連続して一又は複数コースの一枚の編地からなる折線部を編成したのち前記折線部に続けて一枚の編地からなる折代部を編成して前記付属編を形成し、前記付属編折り曲げ工程において、前記付属編編成工程で編成した付属編の折代部を折線部で折り曲げ、前記付属編縫着工程において、前記付属編折り曲げ工程で折り曲げた付属編の折代部を内側にして、前記身頃部の襟ぐり回り、又は袖ぐり回りの端部と前記袋編部の間に前記折代部を挟んだ状態で、前記折線部に沿って前記袋編部の前記折線部側の端部を、又は折線部上を線状縫製線で縫製したのち、前記折代部の端縁を前記身頃部の襟ぐり回り、又は袖ぐり回りの端縁に重ね合わせてかがり縫いすることにより、前記身頃部と前記付属編とを縫着することを特徴とする。   The present invention is a method for manufacturing a knitted garment comprising a band-shaped bag knitting portion that extends along an edge of an accessory knitted around the neckline or around the sleeve of the body part. A body part forming step for forming a body part, an accessory knitting process for forming an accessory knitting in parallel with or before or after the body part forming process, and an accessory knitting for sewing the body part and the accessory knitting. And the auxiliary knitting forming step includes an auxiliary knitting knitting step of knitting the auxiliary knitting with a flat knitting machine having a pair of front and rear needle beds, and an auxiliary knitting bending step of bending the auxiliary knitting, In the accessory knitting process, the knitted line portion formed of the front knitted fabric and the back knitted fabric is knitted, and then the folded line portion formed of one knitted fabric of one or a plurality of courses is continuously formed on the bag knitted portion, and then the folded line Next to the part, knitting a folding part consisting of a single knitted fabric before An accessory knitting is formed, and in the accessory knitting bending process, the folding margin part of the accessory knitting knitted in the accessory knitting knitting process is folded at a fold line portion, and in the accessory knitting sewing process, the accessory is folded in the accessory knitting folding process. The bag along the fold line portion, with the folding margin portion sandwiched between the end portion of the neckline of the body part or the end of the neckline and the bag knitting portion with the folding margin portion of the knitting inside After sewing the end of the knitted portion on the side of the fold line portion or on the fold line portion with a linear sewing line, the end edge of the fold portion is overlapped with the end of the neckline around the body part or around the armhole The body part and the attached knitting are sewn together by overlocking together.

本発明のニット製衣服の製造方法は、前記付属編編成工程において、前記袋編部の前編地を後編地より一又は複数コースだけ多めに編成することが好ましい。   In the knit garment manufacturing method of the present invention, it is preferable that in the accessory knitting process, the front knitted fabric of the bag knitted portion is knitted one or more courses more than the back knitted fabric.

本発明のニット製衣服製造方法では、前記付属編編成工程において、前記折線部の少なくとも１コースを熱収縮糸で編成し、前記付属編折り曲げ工程において、前記折り曲げ部を加熱して前記熱収縮糸を収縮させることにより前記付属編を折り曲げることが好ましく、熱収縮糸で編成するコースの少なくとも一部を裏目の天竺編みで編成することが好ましく、また、前記付属編縫着工程において、前記線状縫製線を環縫いにより縫製することが好ましい。   In the knit garment manufacturing method of the present invention, in the accessory knitting knitting step, at least one course of the fold line portion is knitted with heat shrink yarn, and in the accessory knitting bending step, the bent portion is heated to heat the shrink yarn. It is preferable to fold the accessory knitting by shrinking, preferably knitting at least a part of the course knitted with the heat shrink yarn with a tentacle knitting of the back, and in the accessory knitting sewing step, the linear shape It is preferable to sew the sewing line by chain stitching.

以上説明したように、本発明のニット製衣服、及びニット製衣服の製造方法によれば、 袋編部を備える付属編に一対しかニードルベッドを備えない横編み機で折代部を編成可能であり、高度な技術を有するリンキングではなく、比較的容易な線状縫製やかがり縫いで付属編を身頃部に縫着可能なニット製衣服、及びニット製衣服の製造方法を提供できる。   As described above, according to the knitted garment and the manufacturing method of the knitted garment of the present invention, the folding margin portion can be knitted by the flat knitting machine having only one pair of needle beds on the accessory knitting having the bag knitting portion. In addition, it is possible to provide a knitted garment that can sew the accessory knitting to the body part by linear sewing or overlock sewing that is relatively easy rather than linking with high technology, and a method for manufacturing the knitted garment.

本発明の一の実施の形態に係るニット製衣服の正面図である。1 is a front view of a knitted garment according to an embodiment of the present invention. 図１に示した付属編の横断面（ハッチング部）と裏面側を示した部分斜視図であり、（ａ）は、折白部を折り曲げる前の状態を、（ｂ）は、折代部を折り曲げた状態を、（ｃ）は、折代部を折り曲げた付属編と身頃部を線状縫製線により縫着した状態を、（ｄ）は、折代部の端縁と身頃部の端縁をかがり縫いにより縫着した状態を示す。It is the fragmentary perspective view which showed the cross section (hatching part) and back surface side of the accessory shown in FIG. 1, (a) is the state before bending a fold white part, (b) is a folding margin part. (C) is a state where the accessory knitted part and the body part are sewn with a linear sewing line, (d) is an edge of the folding part and an edge of the body part. The state of sewing by overlock stitching is shown. 図２に示した付属編の編成を２コースごとに分割表示した編成図である。図中、Ｂ，Ｆは、それぞれ前側及び後側のニードルベッドを示し、矢印は、編成方向（キャリッジの走行方向）を示し、Ｘは編み糸、Ｙは熱収縮糸を示す。FIG. 3 is a knitting diagram in which the knitting of the accessory knitting shown in FIG. 2 is divided and displayed every two courses. In the drawing, B and F respectively indicate the front and rear needle beds, the arrows indicate the knitting direction (traveling direction of the carriage), X indicates the knitting yarn, and Y indicates the heat shrink yarn.

以下、適宜図面を用いながら本発明の実施形態について詳述する。ただし、本発明は、以下の実施形態に限られるものではない。   Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the drawings as appropriate. However, the present invention is not limited to the following embodiments.

図１は、本発明の一の実施の形態に係るＶネックのベストからなるニット製衣服１００である。ニット製衣服１００は、身頃部１と、身頃部１の襟ぐり１３の周縁に縫着される襟ゴム（付属編）２と、袖ぐり１４の周縁に縫着される脇ゴム（付属編）３とを主に備えている。
尚、襟ゴム２及び脇ゴム３は、付属編の例を示したものであるが、付属編は、襟ゴム２及び脇ゴム３に限られるものではない。また、襟ゴム２と脇ゴム３とを合わせて単に付属編２，３ともいう。 FIG. 1 is a knitted garment 100 comprising a V-neck vest according to an embodiment of the present invention. The knitted garment 100 includes a body part 1, a collar rubber (attachment) 2 sewn on the periphery of the neckline 13 of the body part 1, and a side rubber (attachment) 3 sewn on the periphery of the armhole 14. And mainly.
The collar rubber 2 and the side rubber 3 are examples of the accessory knitting, but the accessory knitting is not limited to the collar rubber 2 and the side rubber 3. Further, the collar rubber 2 and the side rubber 3 are also simply referred to as accessory parts 2 and 3.

身頃部１は、前身頃１１と後身頃１２とを備える。前身頃１１、及び後身頃１２は、それぞれ横編み機で編成されたのち所定の形状に裁断され側部１５及び肩部１６をかがり縫いにより縫着されて身頃部１に形成される。身頃部１は、下端の裾ゴム部１７が２×２リブに編成され、裾ゴム部１７より上側の肩部１６までのグランド部１８が全て天竺編みに編成されている。身頃部１の編み糸Ｘとしては、特に限定されず、アクリル７０％、ウール３０％の撚糸や、アクリル５０％、綿５０％の撚糸等、公知の編み糸を適宜に用いることができる。   The body part 1 includes a front body 11 and a back body 12. The front body 11 and the back body 12 are knitted by a flat knitting machine, cut into a predetermined shape, and sewn on the side portion 15 and the shoulder portion 16 by over stitching to form the body portion 1. In the body part 1, the bottom rubber part 17 at the lower end is knitted into 2 × 2 ribs, and the ground part 18 from the bottom rubber part 17 to the shoulder part 16 above is all knitted in a tense knitting. The knitting yarn X of the body part 1 is not particularly limited, and known knitting yarns such as 70% acrylic and 30% wool twisted yarn, 50% acrylic and 50% cotton twisted yarn can be appropriately used.

襟ゴム２、及び脇ゴム３は、図２に示すように、それぞれリブ編部４と、袋編部５と、折線部６と、折代部７とを備えている。リブ編部４は、襟ゴム２、又は脇ゴム３の先端縁側（図２の左側）を構成し、身頃部１と同じ編み糸Ｘからなる２×１のリブ編組織を有している。   As shown in FIG. 2, the collar rubber 2 and the side rubber 3 each include a rib knitting portion 4, a bag knitting portion 5, a folding line portion 6, and a folding margin portion 7. The rib knitting portion 4 constitutes the leading edge side (left side in FIG. 2) of the collar rubber 2 or the side rubber 3 and has a 2 × 1 rib knitting structure made of the same knitting yarn X as the body portion 1.

袋編部５は、図２に示すように、リブ編部４に続けて付属編２，３の基端側（図２の右側）に設けられ編み糸Ｘにより表編地５ａと裏編地５ｂが共に天竺編からなる袋編に編成されている。
図３は、付属編２の編成図を示し、袋編部６は、Ｓ７〜Ｓ１６に示すように、表編地５ａが１２コースに編成されるのに対し裏編地５ｂが８コースに編成され、表編地５ａを裏編地５ｂより４コース多く編成することで、袋編部５の間に身頃部１の端縁を挟み込んでいるかのように表編地が外側へ膨らむよう構成されている。 As shown in FIG. 2, the bag knitting portion 5 is provided on the base end side (right side in FIG. 2) of the attached knitting 2, 3 following the rib knitting portion 4, and the front knitted fabric 5 a and the back knitted fabric. Both 5b are knitted into a bag knitting made of a tengu.
FIG. 3 shows a knitting diagram of the accessory knitting 2. As shown in S7 to S16, the bag knitting portion 6 knitted the front knitted fabric 5a into 12 courses while the back knitted fabric 5b knitted into 8 courses. The front knitted fabric 5a is knitted four courses more than the back knitted fabric 5b, so that the front knitted fabric swells outward as if the edge of the body part 1 is sandwiched between the bag knitted portions 5. ing.

折線部６は、図２（ａ）に示すように、袋編部５と折代部７の境界部をなし、図３のＳ１８、Ｓ１９に示すように、編み糸Ｘと熱収縮糸Ｙを１コースずつ交互に編成した４コースの裏目の天竺組織を有している。熱収縮糸Ｙとしては、ポリエステルの芯糸にナイロン糸をカバリングしたカバリングヤーン（ＦＴＹ）が好ましく用いられるが、スチームアイロン等で熱を加えることで収縮する編み糸であれば特に限定されず、公知の熱収縮糸を適宜に用いることができる。   As shown in FIG. 2 (a), the fold line portion 6 forms a boundary between the bag knitting portion 5 and the folding margin portion 7, and the knitting yarn X and the heat shrink yarn Y as shown in S18 and S19 in FIG. It has a four-course back eye tengu organization that is knitted alternately one by one. As the heat-shrinkable yarn Y, a covering yarn (FTY) in which a nylon yarn is covered with a polyester core yarn is preferably used, but is not particularly limited as long as it is a knitting yarn that shrinks by applying heat with a steam iron or the like. These heat shrinkable yarns can be used as appropriate.

折代部７は、図２（ａ）に示すように、折線部６に連続して付属編２，３の基端側に設けられ、図３の工程Ｓ２０からＳ２２に示すように、コース方向に裏目２目と表目１目を繰り返す編組織を有している。このように、裏目のみの天竺編にするのではなく、表目を挟むことで先端が丸くなることを抑制している。   As shown in FIG. 2A, the folding margin portion 7 is provided on the base end side of the appendages 2 and 3 continuously to the folding line portion 6, and as shown in steps S20 to S22 in FIG. Have a knitting structure that repeats the second stitch and the first stitch. In this way, it is possible to prevent the tip from being rounded by pinching the front face, instead of using only the back face.

付属編２、３は、図２（ａ）の状態で、折線部６をスチームアイロン等で加熱すると熱収縮糸Ｙが収縮し、折代部７が図２（ｂ）のように折り返る。ここで、折線部６の熱収縮糸Ｙは、裏目の天竺に編まれているので、ループが収縮すると裏側に折り返る。   When the folding lines 6 are heated with a steam iron or the like in the state shown in FIG. 2A, the accessory knitted fabrics 2 and 3 shrink the heat shrink yarn Y, and the folding margin 7 is folded back as shown in FIG. 2B. Here, since the heat-shrinkable yarn Y of the fold line portion 6 is knitted on the tentacles on the back side, when the loop contracts, it is folded back.

付属編２は、図２（ｃ）に示すように、袋編部５の折線部６側の端部に、折線部６に沿った線状縫製線９を有している。本実施形態では、線状縫製線として、擬似リンキング、又は環縫いと呼ばれるチェーン状のステッチを採用している。環縫いとしては、二重環縫いが好ましく用いられる他、単環縫いにしてもよい。線状縫製線９は、表側（図２各図の下側）から縫製され、袋編部５の前後の編地５ａ，５ｂと、折代部７（又は折線部６）と、身頃部１とをまとめて縫着している。このように、直線状縫製線９を折線部６に沿って袋編部５の折線側端部に設けることで、より、袋編部を備える付属編をリンキングに縫製したものに外観を似せることができる。ただし、線状縫製線９は、折線部６上に設けてもよい。
加えて、図２（ｄ）に示すように、付属編２，３は、折代部７の端縁と身頃部１の襟ぐり１３や袖ぐり１４の端縁とを揃えてかがり縫いがされている。尚、図中符号８は、かがり縫いのステッチを示している。 As shown in FIG. 2 (c), the accessory knitting 2 has a linear sewing line 9 along the fold line portion 6 at the end of the bag knitting portion 5 on the fold line portion 6 side. In the present embodiment, a chain-like stitch called pseudo linking or chain stitch is adopted as the linear sewing line. As the chain stitch, a double ring stitch is preferably used, and a single ring stitch may be used. The linear sewing line 9 is sewn from the front side (the lower side of each figure in FIG. 2), and the knitted fabrics 5a and 5b before and after the bag knitting part 5, the folding margin part 7 (or the folding line part 6), and the body part 1 Are sewn together. Thus, by providing the linear sewing line 9 along the fold line portion 6 at the fold line side end portion of the bag knitting portion 5, the appearance can be more similar to that obtained by sewing the attached knitting including the bag knitting portion to the linking. Can do. However, the linear sewing line 9 may be provided on the broken line portion 6.
In addition, as shown in FIG. 2 (d), the accessory knittings 2, 3 are stitched by aligning the edge of the folding margin 7 with the edges of the neckline 13 and the armhole 14 of the body part 1. Yes. Note that reference numeral 8 in the drawing indicates an over stitch stitch.

（製造方法）
次に、ニット製衣服１００の製造方法について説明する。本発明のニット製衣服１００の製造方法は、主に、身頃部１を形成する身頃部形成工程Ａ１と、付属編２，３を形成する付属編形成工程Ａ２と、身頃部１と付属編２，３を縫着する付属編縫着工程Ａ３とを備えている。 (Production method)
Next, a method for manufacturing the knitted garment 100 will be described. The manufacturing method of the knitted garment 100 of the present invention mainly includes a body part forming step A1 for forming the body part 1, an accessory knitting forming process A2 for forming the accessory parts 2, 3, and the body part 1 and the accessory part 2. , 3 is attached.

（身頃部形成工程Ａ１）
身頃部形成工程Ａ１では、まず予め横編み機で編成された前身頃用、後身頃用の編地をそれぞれ所定の型紙に合わせて裁断し、前身頃部１１、及び後身頃部１２を形成する。次に、前身頃部１１と後身頃部１２の側部１５と肩部１６をオーバーロックミシンを用いてかがり縫いにより縫着する。ただし、前身頃部１１と後身頃部１２は、共通の編地から裁断してしてもよい。 (Body part formation process A1)
In the body part forming step A1, first, the knitted fabric for the front body and the back body knitted in advance by a flat knitting machine is cut according to a predetermined pattern to form the front body part 11 and the back body part 12. Next, the side part 15 and the shoulder part 16 of the front body part 11 and the back body part 12 are sewn by overlock sewing using an overlock sewing machine. However, the front body part 11 and the back body part 12 may be cut from a common knitted fabric.

（付属編形成工程Ａ２）
付属編形成工程Ａ２は、付属編２，３を形成する工程で、前後一対にニードルベッドを備えた横編み機にて付属編２，３を編成する付属編編成工程Ａ２１と、付属編を折り曲げる付属編折り曲げ工程Ａ２２とを有している。 (Attachment formation process A2)
The accessory knitting formation step A2 is a step of forming the accessory knitting 2 and 3, and an accessory knitting step A21 for knitting the accessory knitting 2 and 3 with a flat knitting machine having a pair of front and back needle beds, and an accessory knitting the accessory knitting. A knitting and folding step A22.

（付属編編成工程Ａ２１）
図３は、付属編２，３の編成図を示し、Ｓ１からＳ２１は、２コースごとの工程を示している。図３中、符号Ｆは前側のニードルベットを、符号Ｂは後側のニードルベッドを示し、左向きの矢印はキャリッジが左行することを、右向きの矢印はキャリッジが右行することを示している。
付属編編成工程Ａ２２では、まず、前後のニードルベッドに編み糸Ｘを架け渡すようにして編み出し部４１（図２参照、図３においては、編み出し部４１の編成図は省略）を編成したのち、図３のＳ１からＳ５に示すように、編み糸Ｘで２×１のリブ編部４を編成する。リブ編部４の編み終わり部４２（図２参照）では、図３のＳ６に示すように、次の袋編部５の編成に備えて、前後のニードルベッドの全ての編針に編み糸を給糸する。Ｓ６の編成は、全ての針に給糸を行うものであれば他の編成組織を採用してもよく、例えば、前後のニードルベッドに交互に、かつ総針に給糸するいわゆるゴム編みにしてもよい。 (Attached knitting process A21)
FIG. 3 shows a knitting diagram of the appendages 2 and 3, and S1 to S21 show processes for every two courses. In FIG. 3, symbol F indicates a front needle bed, symbol B indicates a rear needle bed, a leftward arrow indicates that the carriage moves left, and a rightward arrow indicates that the carriage moves right. .
In the attached knitting knitting step A22, first, the knitting portion 41 (see FIG. 2; the knitting diagram of the setting portion 41 is omitted in FIG. 3) is knitted so as to bridge the knitting yarn X between the front and back needle beds. As shown in S1 to S5 in FIG. 3, a 2 × 1 rib knitting portion 4 is knitted with the knitting yarn X. In the knitting end portion 42 (see FIG. 2) of the rib knitting portion 4, as shown in S6 of FIG. 3, knitting yarn is supplied to all the knitting needles of the front and rear needle beds in preparation for the next knitting of the bag knitting portion 5. Yarn. For the knitting of S6, other knitting structures may be adopted as long as the yarn is fed to all the needles. For example, a so-called rubber knitting that alternately feeds the front and back needle beds and feeds all the needles. Also good.

リブ編部４の編成が終了すると、図３のＳ７からＳ１６に示すように、続けて袋編部５の編成を行う。袋編部５は、前側のニードルベッドＦを使った天竺編みと後側のニードルベッドＢを使った天竺編みを交互に繰り返しながら筒状の編地を編成する。本実施形態では、図３のＳ９の左行と右行や、Ｓ１１の右行とＳ１４の左行、Ｓ１４の左行と右行のところで前側ニードルベッドＦによる編成を２コース連続して行うことで、前編地５ａのコース数が後編地５ｂのコース数より４コース多くなるように編成している。このように、後編地５ｂよりも前編地５ａを一又は複数コース多く編成することで、前編部５ａに膨らみを持たせることができる。   When the knitting of the rib knitting portion 4 is completed, the bag knitting portion 5 is continuously knitted as shown in S7 to S16 of FIG. The bag knitting part 5 knits the tubular knitted fabric while alternately repeating the tentacle knitting using the front needle bed F and the tentacle knitting using the rear needle bed B. In this embodiment, the knitting with the front needle bed F is continuously performed for two courses at the left and right rows of S9, the right and left rows of S11, and the left and right rows of S14 in FIG. Thus, the number of courses of the front knitted fabric 5a is knitted so as to be four more than the number of courses of the rear knitted fabric 5b. Thus, the front knitted fabric 5a is knitted one or more courses more than the back knitted fabric 5b, so that the front knitted portion 5a can be swollen.

袋編部５の編成が終了すると、Ｓ１７に示すように、前側ニードルベッドＦの編針に係止したループを半分ずつ２回に分けて後側のニードルベッドＢの編針に目移しする。
目移しが完了すると、Ｓ１８及びＳ１９に示すように、編み糸Ｘと、熱収縮糸Ｙを用いて折線部６を編成する。本実施形態では、キャリッジが複数組の編成カムを有する横編み機を用いることを想定し、Ｓ１８及びＳ１９工程では、１回のキャリッジの右行又は左行で編み糸Ｘによる天竺編みと熱収縮糸Ｙによる天竺編みを同時に行い、キャリッジ一往復で編み糸Ｘによるコースと熱収縮糸Ｙによるコースを交互にして計４コース編成する。 When the knitting of the bag knitting portion 5 is completed, as shown in S17, the loop locked to the knitting needle of the front needle bed F is divided into two halves and transferred to the knitting needle of the rear needle bed B.
When the transfer is completed, the fold line portion 6 is knitted using the knitting yarn X and the heat-shrinkable yarn Y as shown in S18 and S19. In the present embodiment, it is assumed that a flat knitting machine having a plurality of sets of knitting cams is used in the present embodiment, and in steps S18 and S19, a tentacle knitting and a heat shrink yarn using a knitting yarn X are performed in the right row or the left row of one carriage. Tendon knitting with Y is performed at the same time, and the course with the knitting yarn X and the course with the heat shrink yarn Y are alternately knitted for a total of four courses in one carriage reciprocation.

折線部６の編成が終了したら、図３のＳ２０からＳ２２に示すように、折線部６に続けて編み糸Ｘで折代部７の編成を行う。折代部７は、後側のニードルベッドＢへの２針の給糸と前側のニードルベッドＦへの１針の給糸を交互に繰り返しながら、後側のニードルベッドＢの全編針に編み糸を給糸し前側のニードルベッドＦには１針置きに編み糸Ｘを給糸して編成する。   When the knitting of the folding line part 6 is completed, the folding margin part 7 is knitted with the knitting yarn X following the folding line part 6 as shown in S20 to S22 of FIG. The folding margin 7 repeats alternately supplying two needles to the rear needle bed B and supplying one needle to the front needle bed F, while knitting yarn to all the knitting needles of the rear needle bed B. Are knitted by feeding the knitting yarn X to the front needle bed F every other needle.

（付属編折り曲げ工程Ａ２２）
付属編２，３の編成が終了したら、付属編２，３の折線部６にスチームアイロンを当てて付属編２,３を折り曲げる。この際、折線部６の熱収縮糸Ｙのコースが裏目の天竺に編成されているため、折代部７は、付属編２，３の裏側に自動的に折り返る。尚、付属編２，３の折り曲げは、熱収縮糸Ｙを十分に加熱収縮して、付属編２，３を十分に折り曲げることができ、編地を痛めることがなければ、スチームアイロンに限らず、他のアイロンや加熱手段を適宜に用いることができる。 (Accessory folding process A22)
When the knitting of the accessory knitting 2 or 3 is finished, the accessory knitting 2 or 3 is bent by applying a steam iron to the folding line portion 6 of the accessory knitting 2 or 3. At this time, since the course of the heat shrink yarn Y of the fold line portion 6 is knitted on the back stitch, the folding margin portion 7 is automatically folded to the back side of the attached knitting 2 and 3. The bending of the accessory knitting 2 and 3 is not limited to the steam iron as long as the heat-shrinkable yarn Y can be sufficiently heated and shrunk so that the accessory knitting 2 and 3 can be sufficiently bent and the knitted fabric is not damaged. Other irons and heating means can be used as appropriate.

（付属編縫着工程Ａ３）
身頃部形成工程Ａ１と付属編形成工程Ａ２がともに終了し、身頃部１と付属編２，３が完成したら、付属編２，３を身頃部１に縫着する。縫着に先立ち、付属編２，３は、長さ方向の両端を縫い合わせて輪状に形成する。輪状に形成した付属編２，３は、図２（ｃ）に示すように、まず、付属編２，３と襟ぐり１３回り、又は袖ぐり１４回りの端部とを間に折代部７を挟むようにして重ね合わせ、表側となる袋編部５の表編地５ａ側からミシンの針を通し、袋編部５の折線部６側の端部を折線部６に沿って、表編地５ａから折代部７（又は折線部６）線状縫製線を形成すべく縫製を行う。線状縫製線９としては、単環縫いや二重環縫い等の環縫い（又は、擬似リンキング）が好ましく用いられる他、２本の縫製糸を用いる本縫い等、他の縫製方法を採用してもよい。また、折線部６上に線状縫製線９を設けてもよい。
線状縫製線９の縫製が終了したら、折代部７と身頃部１の襟ぐり回りや袖ぐり回りの端縁を重ねて、オーバーロックミシンで折代部７及び身頃部１の端縁を揃えるべく切断しながらこの切断縁をかがり縫いする。かがり縫いには、例えば４本の縫製糸によるかがり縫いを用いることができるが、縫製糸の種類や本数、かがり縫いのステッチの形状は特に限定されず、公知のかがり縫いの形状を適宜に選択できる。 (Attached knitting process A3)
When the body part forming step A1 and the accessory knitting formation step A2 are both completed, and the body part 1 and the accessory knitting 2, 3 are completed, the accessory knitting 2, 3 is sewn to the body part 1. Prior to sewing, the accessory knittings 2 and 3 are formed in a ring shape by sewing both ends in the length direction. As shown in FIG. 2 (c), the accessory knitting 2, 3 formed in a ring shape first has a folding margin 7 between the attachment knitting 2, 3 and the end of the neckline 13 or the armhole 14. They are overlapped so that they are sandwiched, and the needle of the sewing machine is passed from the front knitted fabric 5a side of the bag knitted portion 5 on the front side, and the end of the bag knitted portion 5 on the fold line portion 6 side along the fold line portion 6 from the front knitted fabric 5a. The folding portion 7 (or the folding line portion 6) is sewn to form a linear sewing line. As the linear sewing line 9, other sewing methods such as single stitching or double chain stitching (or pseudo linking) are preferably used, and other sewing methods such as main sewing using two sewing threads are adopted. May be. Further, the linear sewing line 9 may be provided on the broken line portion 6.
When the sewing of the linear sewing line 9 is completed, the folding margin portion 7 and the edge of the body portion 1 around the neckline and the neckline are overlapped, and the edges of the folding margin portion 7 and the body portion 1 are aligned with an overlock sewing machine. This cutting edge is stitched while cutting as much as possible. For example, overlock stitching with four sewing threads can be used, but the type and number of sewing threads and the shape of the overlock stitch are not particularly limited, and a well-known overlock stitch shape is appropriately selected. it can.

本発明は、上記の実施形態に限られるものではなく、例えば、本発明のニット製衣服は、ベストに限らず、カーディガンやセーター等、付属編を有するニット製衣服をすべて含む。付属編についても、襟ゴムや脇ゴムに限らず、袋編部を有すれば、前立て、袖ゴム、裾ゴムなど、全ての付属編を含む。リブ編部は、２×１のリブ編に限らず公知のリブ編を適宜に用いることができるし、リブ編部自体を省略することもできれば、リブ編部の代わりに別の編成による組織を設けることもできる。身頃部、及び付属編は、ともに公知の編成方法を適宜に用いることができる。折線部は熱収縮糸によるコースを少なくとも１コース含めば足り、４コースに限らず３コース以下でも５コース以上でもよく、編み糸Ｘと熱収縮糸Ｙのコースを交互にではなく任意に並べかえることができる。身頃部と付属編を異なる編み糸で編成してもよいし、付属編の各部で異なる編み糸を用いてもよい。また、本発明の製造方法は、前後一対しかニードルベッドを備えない横編み機で製造可能とするために発明されたものであるが、前後に２対のニードルベッドを備える横編み機を用いて編成してもよいことは言うまでもない。１つのキャリッジに１組しか編成カムを備えない横編み機を用いることもできる。   The present invention is not limited to the above embodiment. For example, the knitted garment of the present invention is not limited to the vest, and includes all knitted garments having an accessory knitting such as a cardigan and a sweater. The accessory knitting is not limited to the collar rubber and the side rubber, but includes any accessory knitting such as a placket, a sleeve rubber, and a hem rubber if the bag knitting portion is provided. The rib knitting portion is not limited to the 2 × 1 rib knitting, and a known rib knitting can be used as appropriate. If the rib knitting portion itself can be omitted, a structure by another knitting can be used instead of the rib knitting portion. It can also be provided. A well-known knitting method can be appropriately used for the body part and the accessory part. It is sufficient for the bent portion to include at least one course by heat shrink yarn, not limited to four courses, and may be 3 courses or less or 5 courses or more, and the courses of knitting yarn X and heat shrink yarn Y can be arbitrarily arranged instead of alternately. be able to. The body part and the accessory knitting may be knitted with different knitting yarns, or different parts of the accessory knitting yarn may be used. The manufacturing method of the present invention was invented so that it can be manufactured by a flat knitting machine having only a pair of front and back needle beds. Needless to say. A flat knitting machine having only one set of knitting cams in one carriage can also be used.

１００ ニット製衣服
１ 身頃部
１３ 襟ぐり
１４ 袖ぐり
２ 襟ゴム（付属編）
３ 脇ゴム（付属編）
５ 袋編部
５ａ 表編地
５ｂ 裏編地
６ 折線部
７ 折代部
８ かがり縫いのステッチ
９ 線状縫製線
Ｘ 編み糸
Ｙ 熱収縮糸 100 Knit garment 1 Body part 13 Neckline 14 Armhole 2 Collar rubber (included)
3 Side rubber (included)
5 Bag knitting part 5a Front knitted fabric 5b Back knitted fabric 6 Folding line part 7 Folding margin part 8 Over stitch stitch 9 Linear sewing line X Knitting yarn Y Heat shrink yarn

Claims (10)

身頃部の襟ぐり回り、又は袖ぐり回りに縫着される付属編が身頃部に縫着された端縁に沿って延びる帯状の袋編部を備えるニット製衣服であって、
前記付属編は、前記袋編部に連続して前記一又は複数コースに編成された一枚編地からなる折線部と、前記折線部に連続した一枚編地からなり前記折線部で内側かつ袋編部側へ折り返された折代部とを備え、
前記身頃部の襟ぐり回り、又は袖ぐり回りの端部と前記袋編部の間に前記折代部を挟んだ状態で、前記折線部に沿って前記袋編部の前記折線部側の端部に、又は折線部上に設けられた線状縫製線と、前記身頃部の襟ぐり回り、又は袖ぐり回りの端縁と前記折代部の端縁とを合わせて縁どるかがり縫いとにより前記身頃部と前記付属編が縫着されていることを特徴とするニット製衣服。 A knitted garment comprising a band-shaped bag knitting portion extending along an edge sewn around the neck portion of an accessory knitting around the neck portion of the body portion or around the sleeve portion,
The accessory knitting includes a folded line portion made of a single knitted fabric continuously knitted into the one or a plurality of courses continuously to the bag knitted portion, and a single knitted fabric continuous to the folded line portion, and the inner side at the folded line portion and With a folding part folded back to the bag knitting part side,
The end portion of the bag knitting portion on the side of the fold line portion along the fold line portion in a state where the folding margin portion is sandwiched between the neck portion of the body part or the end portion of the neckline and the bag knitting portion. Or the neckline of the body part by combining a linear sewing line provided on the folding line part and the neckline of the body part or the edge of the armhole part and the edge of the folding part. A knitted garment characterized in that a part and the accessory are sewn together. 前記袋編部は、表編地が裏編地より一又は複数コース多めに編成されている請求項１に記載のニット製衣服。   The knit garment according to claim 1, wherein the bag knitted portion is knitted with one or more courses on the front knitted fabric than on the back knitted fabric. 前記折線部は、熱収縮糸により編成されたコースを含む請求項１又は請求項２に記載のニット製衣服。   The knit garment according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the fold line portion includes a course knitted by heat shrink yarn. 前記熱収縮糸により編成されたコースが裏目の天竺編みを含む請求項３に記載のニット製衣服。   The knitted garment according to claim 3, wherein the course knitted with the heat shrink yarn includes a tentacle knitting on the back. 前記線状縫製線が、環縫いである請求項１から請求項４のいずれか１項に記載のニット製衣服。 The knit garment according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the linear sewing line is a chain stitch. 身頃部の襟ぐり回り、又は袖ぐり回りに縫着される付属編が身頃部に縫着された端縁に沿って延びる帯状の袋編部を備えるニット製衣服の製造方法であって、
身頃部を形成する身頃部形成工程と、
前記身頃部形成工程と並行又は前後して付属編を形成する付属編形成工程と、
前記身頃部と前記付属編を縫着する付属編縫着工程とを備え、
前記付属編形成工程は、前後一対のニードルベッドを備えた横編み機で前記付属編を編成する付属編編成工程と、前記付属編を折り曲げる付属編折り曲げ工程とを有し、
前記付属編編成工程において、前編地と後編地からなる袋編部を編成し、続けて前記袋編部に連続して一又は複数コースの一枚の編地からなる折線部を編成したのち前記折線部に続けて一枚の編地からなる折代部を編成して前記付属編を形成し、
前記付属編折り曲げ工程において、前記付属編編成工程で編成した付属編の折代部を折線部で折り曲げ、
前記付属編縫着工程において、前記付属編折り曲げ工程で折り曲げた付属編の折代部を内側にして、前記身頃部の襟ぐり回り、又は袖ぐり回りの端部と前記袋編部の間に前記折代部を挟んだ状態で、前記折線部に沿って前記袋編部の前記折線部側の端部を、又は折線部上を線状縫製線で縫製したのち、前記折代部の端縁を前記身頃部の襟ぐり回り、又は袖ぐり回りの端縁に重ね合わせてかがり縫いすることにより、前記身頃部と前記付属編とを縫着することを特徴とするニット製衣服の製造方法。 A method of manufacturing a knitted garment comprising a band-shaped bag knitting portion that extends along an edge of an accessory knitted around the neck of the body part or around the sleeve part, which is sewn on the body part,
A body part forming step for forming the body part;
An accessory knitting forming step for forming an accessory knitting in parallel with or before or after the body part forming step,
An accessory knitting sewing step for sewing the body part and the accessory knitting,
The accessory knitting forming step includes an accessory knitting step of knitting the accessory knitting with a flat knitting machine having a pair of front and rear needle beds, and an accessory knitting bending step of bending the accessory knitting,
In the accessory knitting process, after knitting a bag knitted portion consisting of a front knitted fabric and a rear knitted fabric, and subsequently knitting a folded line portion consisting of one knitted fabric of one or a plurality of courses continuously to the bag knitted portion, Forming the accessory knitting by knitting a folding part composed of a single knitted fabric following the fold line part,
In the accessory knitting bending step, the folding portion of the accessory knitting knitted in the accessory knitting knitting step is folded at a fold line portion,
In the accessory knitting process, the folding margin portion of the accessory knitted in the accessory knitting folding step is set on the inside, and the end of the neckline around the body part or between the end of the neckline and the bag knitting part After sewing the end portion of the bag knitting portion on the side of the fold line portion along the fold line portion, or on the fold line portion with a linear sewing line, with the fold margin portion interposed therebetween, the edge of the fold portion A method for producing a knitted garment, wherein the body part and the accessory knitting are sewn together by stitching the body part over the neckline or the edge of the armhole part. 前記付属編編成工程において、前記袋編部の前編地を後編地より一又は複数コースだけ多めに編成する請求項６に記載のニット製衣服の製造方法。   The method for manufacturing a knitted garment according to claim 6, wherein in the accessory knitting step, the front knitted fabric of the bag knitted portion is knitted by one or more courses more than the back knitted fabric. 前記付属編編成工程において、前記折線部の少なくとも１コースを熱収縮糸で編成し、
前記付属編折り曲げ工程において、前記折り曲げ部を加熱して前記熱収縮糸を収縮させることにより前記付属編を折り曲げる請求項６、又は請求項７に記載のニット製衣服の製造方法。 In the accessory knitting step, knitting at least one course of the fold line portion with heat shrink yarn,
The method for manufacturing a knitted garment according to claim 6 or 7, wherein, in the accessory knitting bending step, the accessory knitting is bent by heating the bent portion and shrinking the heat-shrinkable yarn. 前記付属編編成工程において、熱収縮糸で編成するコースの少なくとも一部を裏目の天竺編みで編成する請求項８に記載のニット製衣服の製造方法。   The method for manufacturing a knit garment according to claim 8, wherein in the accessory knitting knitting step, at least a part of a course knitted with the heat shrink yarn is knitted with a reverse stitch. 前記付属編縫着工程において、前記線状縫製線を環縫いにより縫製する請求項６から請求項９のいずれか１項に記載のニット製衣服の製造方法。   The method for manufacturing a knitted garment according to any one of claims 6 to 9, wherein, in the accessory knitting sewing step, the linear sewing line is sewn by chain stitching.
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