JP2020537605A - 構造化編地およびその製造方法 - Google Patents
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Abstract
Description
Claims (11)
- いくつかの構成要素の組み立ての結果である単層から構成されることを特徴とする構造化編地において、
円形の機械上で機械加工された編物層(2)と、前記編物層の内面に熱結合された膜(3)と、前記膜または編物層に接合された微細編物層(4)と、外面への防水処理とで本質的に構成され、
前記構造化編地が前記3つの構成要素、すなわち、編物層(2)、膜(3)、および微細編物層(4)の異なる組み合わせの結果であり、
第1の織物は、編物層(2)と、膜(3)と、防水処理とを含み、前記編物層の重量に応じて、スキーからサイクリングまでのあらゆるスポーツに適しており、
第2の織物は、編物層(2)と、微細編物層(4)と、防水処理とから構成され、軽量で通気性のある衣服に適しており、
第3の織物は、編物層(2)と、膜(3)と、微細編物層(4)と、防水処理とを含み、寒冷気候およびウィンタースポーツに使用される衣服に適している、
構造化編地。 - 前記第2の織物において、前記2つの構成要素の接合は、前記2つの層の接合を可能にする前記表面上に配置されたポリウレタンステッチによって達成されることを特徴とする、請求項1に記載の構造化編地。
- 前記編物層(2)は、異なる糸の使用により異なる厚さを特徴とすることと、所定のセクタにおける機械加工の種類が、天然もしくは合成または前記2つの組み合わせであり得るか、または、異なる種類および厚さの糸の絡み合いから得られ得る、様々な種類の糸で行われることとを特徴とする、請求項1に記載の構造化編地。
- 前記膜(3)は、親水性を有するポリウレタンフィルムで構成され、この膜の管状要素への適用を容易にする高い耐熱性容量を有し、得られた前記構造化編地の強度および耐久性を向上させることに加えて、前記膜は、得られた最終的な織物に伝達される特性である二次元延伸性に最適な容量を有することを特徴とする、請求項1に記載の構造化編地。
- 前記微細編物層(4)は、天然糸および合成糸の両方で得られる極めて薄く、弾性があり、延性のある織物であり、この層の前記厚さおよび重量に応じて、前記層が前記衣服の寒さからの保護の程度を大きくしたり小さくしたりし、冬の衣服では、厚手でニットがより密着した微細ニットを使用することができるので、前記衣服の温度調節を可能にするように設計されることを特徴とする、請求項1に記載の構造化編地。
- 前記微細編物層(4)は、前記織糸の繊維を起毛させるチーゼル加工を特徴とし、前記層を柔らかく毛羽立たせ、前記表面に毛羽およびビロードのような外観を与えて、空気の保持量を増加させ、得られた前記編地の断熱性を高めるようにすることを特徴とする、請求項1に記載の構造化編地。
- 前記繊維およびその製造に使用される前記材料に応じて、前記編物層(2)は、前記最終的な織物に明確に定義された特性を与え、
前記予め定義された厚さまたはハニカム効果は、身体の微気候および温度調節を調整および管理し、前記織物の弾性および柔軟性を予め決定して、前記織物が運動時に快適かつ動的であるようにすることを特徴とする、
請求項1に記載の構造化編地。 - 前記織物をピンと張った状態に保つ縫い目がない(そのため前記織物は柔らかく伸縮性がある)ので、運動時の快適度を提供する「縫い目のない」特徴に加えて、前記膜の特徴は、通気性、外部湿度を外部に維持すること、および内部湿度を逃がすことを含むことを特徴とする、請求項1に記載の構造化編地。
- 請求項1〜8に記載の構造化編地を製造する方法において、
前記方法は、次の操作ステップ、
編物によって、前記外面および内面の両方にレリーフのある要素を有する前記編物層の三次元性が達成される管状要素を円形の機械を用いて将来の衣服に所定の性能を提供する、製造ステップであって、通気性のある部分が、より開放的なハニカム加工によって、もしくはこの部分の構造により空気の通過を可能にする貫通孔で「設計」されて画定され、かつ/または使用される前記糸によるのではなく、編物の種類により、特に柔軟性があり弾性であるリブ部分で人間工学的である、ステップと、
得られた前記管状要素を裏返しにして、前記将来の織物の前記外面が内側になるようにするステップと、
前記管状要素の前記内面全体を覆うポリカーボネートシートを挿入した後、仮縫い目によって前記管状要素の上部を密封するステップと、
前記管状要素を、後で前記衣服の内面となり、かつ単層から構成された膜または微細編物層を有する膜を含む複数の層から構成される膜の外側に位置する前記内面に適用するステップと、
前記管状要素の前記膜および/または微細編物層を下部に位置決めした後、仮縫い目によって密封するステップと、
十分な熱を供給することによって、前記材料の相互結合を可能にし、前記表面の最初の三次元性を維持する、好適なプレス機によって熱間プレスするステップと、
回転された前記管状要素の他方の半分において前記膜および/または微細編物層を位置決めするステップと、
前記管状要素の前記下部から前記仮縫い目を除去し、前記編物層をわずかに張った状態に保ち、前記編物層に所定の大きさまたは寸法まで張力をかけ、前記プレス時に前記管状要素の2つの半分の接合を妨げていたポリカーボネートシートを除去するステップと、
前記上部の仮縫い目を除去し、前記管状要素を開放することにより、前記要素を矩形部分にするステップと、
前記外面を耐水化するために、前記外面または膜および/もしくは微細編物層が適用された反対側に防水処理を施すステップと、
得られた前記編地の断片を暖めることによって前記断片を乾燥させる好適なデバイスを通過させることによって乾燥させて、次いで動的活動のための衣服の製造に必要なすべての前記構造を作製するために使用される準備ができているようにするステップと、
を本質的に含むことを特徴とする、方法。 - 前記シートは、前記表面を完全に均質にするために、前記管状要素の表面全体に張力をかけ、同時に安定させることができ、製造される前記衣服の異なる大きさに対応する異なる大きさの編地を得るために異なる寸法を特徴とすることを特徴とする、請求項9に記載の方法。
- 前記手順は、
織物の重なりがなく最適な肘および/または膝の動きを可能にする蛇腹状の織物の部分と、
断熱機能を果たす気密性を可能にするか、または汗を吸い取るか、もしくは前記衣服の内部温度を制御するために前記織物に通気性を与えて、ユーザに最適な微気候を提供するようにする、異なる列間の厚さを有する部分と、
通常の手法で縫製され得るよりも滑らかな部分であって、ジッパーを付けるための滑らかな部分と、
前記織物の裏面に浮糸、遊端、または他の要素がなく、前記織物を美的に特別で価値のあるものにするデザインおよび織り方を有する部分と、
を得ても良いことを特徴とする、請求項9に記載の手順。
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PCT/IT2018/000129 WO2019077637A1 (en) | 2017-10-17 | 2018-10-12 | STRUCTURED KNITTED FABRIC AND METHOD FOR PRODUCING THE SAME |
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