EP4005424A1 - Procede et systeme de fabrication d'un article de vêtement - Google Patents

Procede et systeme de fabrication d'un article de vêtement Download PDF

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Publication number
EP4005424A1
EP4005424A1 EP20210562.3A EP20210562A EP4005424A1 EP 4005424 A1 EP4005424 A1 EP 4005424A1 EP 20210562 A EP20210562 A EP 20210562A EP 4005424 A1 EP4005424 A1 EP 4005424A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
garment
elements
unit
cutting
clothing
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP20210562.3A
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Jürgen Siegfried GONSER
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Logo Co Gonser GmbH
Original Assignee
Logo Co Gonser GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Logo Co Gonser GmbH filed Critical Logo Co Gonser GmbH
Priority to EP20210562.3A priority Critical patent/EP4005424A1/fr
Publication of EP4005424A1 publication Critical patent/EP4005424A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00—Garments
    • A41D1/06—Trousers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
    • A41H3/007—Methods of drafting or marking-out patterns using computers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
    • A41H3/08—Patterns on the cloth, e.g. printed

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a piece of clothing, in particular trousers such as jeans, and a method and a system for producing such a piece of clothing.
  • Garments can be made in different ways. Yarns are often spun from fiber raw materials. These are then usually further processed by weaving or knitting into corresponding woven or knitted fabrics. Refining often takes place before or after this further processing; this, for example, by dyeing the yarn or bleaching, dyeing and printing the woven or knitted fabric. The finished item of clothing is then produced or assembled from the woven or knitted fabric by the woven or knitted fabric being cut to size and sewn or glued, for example, according to prefabricated patterns.
  • a pair of jeans is commonly made from fabric made with a dyed warp and undyed weft.
  • the warp thread is dyed with a vat dye such as indigo, which has poor rubbing fastness.
  • Wearing jeans results in a so-called “used look” due to the gradual abrasion of the dye.
  • post-treatment processes such as bleaching, grinding, lasering or washing (with stones).
  • after-treatment is extremely time-consuming, resource-intensive, complex, often requires the use of harmful chemicals and expensive machinery.
  • the object of the present invention is therefore to provide a method and a system for the simple and resource-saving production of a garment.
  • the present invention relates to a method for producing a garment.
  • a sample item of clothing composed of a plurality of sample elements.
  • the sample garment may have been previously made in a variety of ways.
  • the pattern elements can include all of the individual parts from which the pattern item of clothing was made. Individual or all pattern elements can also consist of several individual parts.
  • the sample garment is separated into at least part or all of its sample elements; this, for example, by at least partially unraveling seams of a sample item of clothing that has been sewn together.
  • the individual pattern elements obtained in this way are digitally mapped in a third step in order to obtain digital images of the pattern elements.
  • corresponding elements are printed, preferably true to scale, onto at least one flat textile. It is conceivable, for example, that each element is printed individually or a group of elements or even all elements together on a flat textile.
  • the flat textile is cut into individual parts, each comprising at least one of the printed elements.
  • the elements or individual parts are joined to form the garment corresponding to the sample garment.
  • Sheet-like textile is understood as meaning any textile that extends or can extend essentially in one plane, including woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, braided fabrics, stitched fabrics, nonwoven fabrics, and felts. All textile raw materials are also included, in particular natural fibres, man-made fibres, including synthetic fibers and inorganic fibres.
  • An undyed or bleached textile is preferably used.
  • a woven fabric with a proportion of cotton, preferably with a proportion of greater than 0% to 100%, particularly preferably from 50% to 100%, is preferably used as the planar textile.
  • a twill weave fabric is preferably used.
  • the number of individual pieces of the garment corresponds to the number of pattern elements of the pattern garment, so that a substantially identical Replica of the sample garment is possible.
  • a material similar to the material of the sample item of clothing, particularly preferably an identical material, is used for the item of clothing.
  • sample pieces of clothing composed of several pattern elements or individual parts are suitable as sample items of clothing and items of clothing.
  • a major advantage of the method according to the invention is that a sample item of clothing produced or provided with a specific, desired look and preferably also structure can be reproduced in a simple manner as a similar item of clothing without having to repeat the same steps required for producing the sample item of clothing for each item of clothing. This simplifies the manufacturing process and reduces the resources and effort required for this, while the desired appearance and preferably also the structure of the sample garment as a whole is/are essentially retained or becomes/are reproducible. This applies in particular to items of clothing made from denim, such as jeans in particular, which are particularly complex to produce in the conventional manner.
  • a further advantage is that by providing or producing the sample item of clothing, it is possible to replicate the overall appearance, in particular characterized by the appearance and preferably structure of the sample elements or individual parts and their interaction as a (sample) item of clothing.
  • a particularly realistic simulation of the appearance and preferably also the structure of the sample item of clothing is thus possible.
  • a piece of clothing such as a pair of trousers
  • a pattern imitating another piece of clothing which, however, has not been obtained by digitally depicting the pattern elements, i.e. the sample piece of clothing.
  • a further advantage of the method according to the invention lies in the higher degree of automation that can be achieved.
  • the method according to the invention also reduces the time required for production and the resources required for this, allows the use of harmful chemicals to be largely dispensed with and protects the environment and the health of the people carrying out the method.
  • the method is suitable for producing a pair of pants as a garment corresponding to a sample garment which is a pair of pants, preferably jeans.
  • the sample item of clothing can also be another item of clothing, preferably consisting of or at least comprising denim.
  • Denim fabric is preferably made of a material woven in plain weave, satin weave or preferably twill weave, preferably with Cotton content produced and is particularly preferably a fabric comprising a dyed warp thread and / or dyed weft thread.
  • the first step of providing the sample item of clothing or the pair of jeans is preceded by a step of developing the sample item of clothing, which preferably includes changing the optical and/or structural properties of the sample item of clothing.
  • a step of developing the sample item of clothing which preferably includes changing the optical and/or structural properties of the sample item of clothing.
  • Washing such as stone washing (ie washed with stones), and/or other mechanical processes or abrasion processes, in particular grinding, and/or a chemical treatment and/or a thermal treatment such as lasers, is particularly included.
  • an optically and/or structurally specifically modified sample item of clothing is provided, which can be reproduced particularly efficiently and similarly using the method according to the invention.
  • the second step of separating the sample item of clothing is preferably carried out essentially non-destructively with regard to the pattern elements, i.e. by disassembling it into the pattern elements without cutting the pattern elements themselves, preferably only by separating seams, loosening adhesive spots and/or removing or loosening others Fastening or fixing means.
  • the third step of digital imaging is preferably carried out for at least one of two flat sides of the pattern elements. It is thus easily possible to reproduce the external appearance and/or structure of the sample item of clothing, since in this case only a one-sided process is necessary. By preferably depicting the pattern elements on both sides, it is possible to also reproduce a side of the sample item of clothing that is on the inside when worn, so that the overall appearance of the item of clothing achieves a particularly high level of reproduction quality in relation to the sample item of clothing. This can be particularly advantageous for reversible clothing, for example.
  • Digital mapping or digital recording preferably includes any method that is suitable for optically mapping or capturing the appearance of the pattern elements. recorded and preserved in digital form. This may include photographing, for example using a digital camera, or scanning, for example using a scanner. It is also conceivable and included to supplement the digital image with further assigned information, such as spatial information, for example by recording stereo images or topographical images. This can also include measuring methods for generating height information perpendicular to a (main) extension plane of the pattern element or elements, for example by means of a line laser.
  • the third step also includes processing of the digital image.
  • This can preferably be carried out using methods and programs known per se, e.g. to increase the imaging quality by removing image errors.
  • the image can also be further adjusted, for example by changing color properties, cropping to specific image areas or removing unwanted image areas. It is thus possible to increase the image quality and ultimately to increase the quality of the replica of the sample garment by the garment. It is also conceivable, by means of image processing, to combine digital images of a plurality of sample items of clothing produced using a similar or identical process in order to obtain an averaged digital image.
  • the fourth step of printing further includes printing one or more customizable elements.
  • the customizable or individual element can either be provided independently of the digital images or be integrated into the digital image; for example in the processing step.
  • the printed individual element or elements can overlay the elements printed based on the image or can be provided in a separate area.
  • the individual element or elements are printed on a side facing away from a side of the garment that is on the outside when it is worn.
  • the printing of the individual elements can take place essentially at the same time as the printing of the elements, or in a separate step that takes place before or after, possibly even by a different machine.
  • Customerisable means items that preferably contain garment-specific information(s).
  • the individual elements may be customized for each garment made according to the present invention, or they may be identical for a certain plurality of such garments. It is also conceivable that different individual parts of the item of clothing are each printed with one or more individual elements, possibly even none at all.
  • the individual elements can, for example, be symbols that simplify the assembly and assembly of the garment, such as snaps, gussets or break lines, or mark seam allowances. Likewise, the individual elements can also be logos or security features.
  • a individual element, the digital images of the pattern elements also contain optically complementary images. The provision of one or more (similar or different) individual elements can simplify the handling and thus the method and increase the flexibility of the method.
  • the individual element can also be information about the item of clothing, such as type designation, model name, size information, washing instructions and the like.
  • the individual element can also be an element assigned to the buyer or personalized by the buyer, such as order and delivery information, desired names and other texts and the like.
  • the customizable element is preferably a customizable code.
  • Code is preferably understood to mean any element containing specific information, including 1D codes such as barcodes, 2D codes such as QR codes and 3D codes such as holograms, for example a character or a character string such as one or more words.
  • Personalizable is preferably understood to mean that the code is suitable, as an individual element, for carrying specific information that is preferably unique in comparison to other codes used in the method, and particularly preferably for being product information and/or order information.
  • Order information can be a person assigned to the sample item of clothing, piece of clothing, sample element, element, individual part or textile, such as the orderer, customer, end customer, his or her delivery address and the like.
  • a shipping address and client and/or other information about the order can be assigned to a piece of clothing or individual parts thereof.
  • product information can be information about the garment, such as the length, width, color, and the like.
  • the code additionally or alternatively includes instructions and/or process information for steps following the application of the code, such as cutting the optional fifth step or joining the sixth step.
  • the code can be used to simplify merchandise management and logistics when handling the textile, the individual line and/or the garment. This further simplifies the process and increases the flexibility and personalization of the process.
  • the fourth step of printing the elements and preferably also the customizable elements is preferably carried out by means of direct-to-garment printing.
  • Direct-to-garment printing generally refers to ink jet methods, which are known per se.
  • the advantage of direct-to-garment printing lies in the high degree of customization of the print, so that in principle each individual printed (customizable) element can be designed as desired. This makes it possible to work sensibly from a quantity of one and the pressure of the carry out customizable elements and elements in the same process step.
  • Abrasion-resistant paints are preferably used.
  • light-colored (eg essentially white) textiles are printed, so that the use of a white base layer can be dispensed with.
  • a preferably white base layer can be applied particularly easily in an inkjet process.
  • an adhesion promoter for the printing inks can be applied particularly easily in the inkjet process.
  • the flat textile is preferably fed from a preferably rolled-up textile web, particularly preferably in a roll-to-roll process.
  • the optional fifth step of cutting to size is preferably carried out automatically, partially automatically or manually.
  • a so-called cutting machine can be used, for example. This can preferably be NC-controlled. Laser cutting is also conceivable. It can also be cut, at least partially, by hand using scissors or some other type of cutting tool. The method can thus be adapted to individual needs as required.
  • the sixth step of joining the elements or individual parts to form the garment preferably takes place at least by means of sewing and/or gluing.
  • the garment can thus be assembled in a simple and conventional manner.
  • the method for assembling and joining the item of clothing preferably essentially corresponds to the method and particularly preferably also to the structure of the sample item of clothing.
  • at least one part and preferably all joints of the item of clothing essentially correspond in their arrangement and course to those of the sample item of clothing.
  • the item of clothing can also be realistically reproduced according to the pattern of the item of clothing in its structure.
  • the sixth step of joining is preferably carried out automatically, partially automatically or manually. In the first two cases, a so-called automatic sewing machine can be used, for example. This can preferably be NC-controlled. It can, at least in part, also be sewn by hand in the classic way. The method can thus be adapted to individual needs as required.
  • At least one of the steps of printing (fourth step), cutting (fifth step) and / or joining (sixth step) a post-processing step for post-processing the material of at least one of the elements, the items and / or of the garment.
  • the garment can thus be further developed. It is conceivable, for example, to add roughened areas or holes contained in the sample item of clothing. This can also be done automatically, semi-automatically or manually. The item of clothing can thus be reproduced even more realistically from the sample item of clothing if required.
  • the steps of the method required to generate the digital images are carried out only or at least once, e.g is necessary for the procedure.
  • the use of materials and effort for provision can thus be reduced.
  • the steps required for the actual production of the garment i.e. printing the elements based on the images, optionally cutting the textile into individual parts and joining the individual parts to form the garment, can then in principle be repeated as often as you like in order to obtain several items of clothing. This, for example, by using the once-generated digital images for printing the elements, possibly including individual elements, as often as desired.
  • the production of several items of clothing corresponding to a sample item of clothing i.e. the arbitrarily frequent duplication of the sample item of clothing, can thus preferably be made possible by providing a (single) sample item of clothing and thus leads to a simplification of the method and saving of resources.
  • the entire method but at least individual, some or all of the steps a) to f) and possibly the post-processing step, can be carried out automatically, partially automatically and/or manually.
  • the manufacturing process can be carried out flexibly as desired.
  • the present invention further relates to a garment made by a method according to the present invention.
  • a garment made by a method according to the present invention is characterized by a special closeness to reality compared to a conventionally produced sample item of clothing.
  • the invention also relates to a system by means of which the method can preferably be carried out.
  • the system has a detection unit, by means of which by assembling into one Sample item of clothing and subsequent separating obtained pattern elements of the sample item of clothing can be digitally recorded.
  • the system also has a processing unit, by means of which digital images of the pattern elements are obtained or created on the basis of the digitally recorded pattern elements.
  • the system also has a printing unit, such as an inkjet printer, by means of which elements can be printed on at least one flat textile based on the digital images.
  • the system can also have a cutting unit, such as an (NC-controlled) cutting machine, by means of which the textile can be cut into individual parts, each of which includes at least one of the printed elements.
  • the system has a joining unit, such as an automatic sewing machine, by means of which the printed elements or individual parts can be joined to form the item of clothing in accordance with the sample item of clothing.
  • the system preferably also has a cutting determination unit that can determine cutting parameters and provide them to the cutting unit.
  • the cutting parameters are provided to a cutting control unit of the cutting unit, so as to preferably control a cutting tool for cutting the textile into individual parts.
  • Cutting tools include, for example, driven or non-driven circular cutters, oscillating or non-oscillating inset cutters, milling tools, laser beams or water jets.
  • the printed elements are preferably cut out along predetermined edges by means of the cutting tool. In this way, it is particularly preferable for individual parts to be obtained which largely correspond in shape and size to the pattern elements.
  • the system preferably also has a processing unit for processing the digital image.
  • the processing unit can preferably have an image processing program.
  • the system preferably also has a personalization unit for supplementing the digital image with the customizable element.
  • the customizable element can preferably be a customizable code, such as a bar code or 2D code and be like that. What was said above about the customizable element and the customizable code applies accordingly.
  • the customizable element can preferably contain information, preferably in the form of a customizable code.
  • the information can be an instruction for the production of the garment, such as cutting parameters of the cutting unit or process parameters of the joining unit.
  • the information can also include product information and/or order information and any number of other items. In this respect, what was said above applies analogously.
  • the system preferably also has a detection unit, by means of which the customizable element can be detected, in particular after it has been printed. Detection is understood as a recognition of the customizable element; for example by means of optical and/or radio technology.
  • the detection of the customizable or individual element can preferably include the localization or detection and provision of the information(s) transported with the customizable element or associated therewith.
  • the customizable element can be captured by a camera and then evaluated.
  • the provision of the information identified or recorded in this way can in turn include the provision of, for example, process parameters to/for the cutting unit and/or the joining unit, on the basis of which the following method steps can then be carried out, for example.
  • the information(s) can preferably be provided to an output unit, such as a screen or a print unit, and output there. In this way, any information can be transported and used, for example, for the manufacturing process or subsequent steps, such as the logistics of a goods delivery.
  • the system preferably also has an interface for inputting and/or outputting or displaying process information; this preferably via peripheral devices such as a keyboard, monitor, smartphone, and this wired and/or wireless. Targeted process monitoring and control is thus made possible in a simple manner.
  • the processing unit and other elements, if present, such as at least one of the cutting determination unit, the processing unit, the personalization unit and/or the interface can be part of a central control unit of the system.
  • the system can be easily set up and just as easily controlled.
  • the present invention also relates to a method for producing a garment, comprising the steps of: printing elements on Based on digital images of a sample item of clothing on at least one sheet-like textile, optionally cutting the textile into individual parts each comprising at least one of the elements, and joining the individual parts to form the article of clothing, the elements comprising at least one customizable element.
  • the digital images preferably each comprise images of pattern elements of the pattern item of clothing from which the pattern item of clothing is or was composed. Accordingly, the method can be preceded by a step of providing and separating and digital imaging, as described above.
  • the customizable element is preferably digitally integrated in the digital image or images.
  • the customizable element has customer-specific information (logo, initials, text,%), customer information (name, etc.), product information (size, length, width, color, model name, etc., order information (quantity, delivery address ,%), process information (control and process parameters,%) and the like.
  • the customizable element can also be a code, such as a bar code, a 2D code and the like.
  • the individualized element is printed on an inner side of the garment when the garment is worn. For the rest, reference is made to the above-described statements on the individual method steps, which apply in the same way to the method described here. Likewise, a garment made by this method is an independent aspect of the present invention.
  • a system with the components that are at least necessary for the production of the garment such as a processing unit, printing unit, optional cutting unit and joining unit, wherein the other components can also be included in the system described above according to this aspect of the invention.
  • the remaining elements of the description and/or claims and figures can therefore be applied independently at will to this alternative, independent process, garment and system, in particular with regard to printing, cutting, assembly, providing individual elements and codes that can be personalized.
  • the digital image can be created in any manner, i.e., does not require the provision, ripping, and imaging of a sample garment.
  • the garment to be made can be of any nature and need not replicate a pattern garment, although this is preferred.
  • a sample item of clothing 100 in the present case jeans 100 (also called trousers 100 below), is first provided.
  • the trousers 100 are formed by a plurality of pattern elements 100a-e, for example a plurality of fabric elements 100a-e.
  • the pattern elements 100a-e are assembled into the pattern garment 100, for example by joining such as sewing and/or gluing.
  • the pair of jeans 100 was developed before and/or after provision; e.g. treated to change the optical and/or structural properties, in particular washed.
  • the pair of jeans 100 may have been washed, sanded, lasered, and/or dyed with pumice stones and enzymes.
  • the aim of the method and system 1 according to the invention is to produce an item of clothing (here trousers) 300 which is an optically and preferably also structurally similar replica of the sample item of clothing 100 (here the pair of jeans) 100 .
  • the jeans 100 are broken down or separated into at least some of their elements, ie their pattern elements 100a-e. It is preferred and included that some pattern elements 100a-e consist of other individual parts that are not further broken down. For example, pocket bags, patches or zippers can remain on or on the fabric elements to which they are attached, and these together form one of the pattern elements.
  • the jeans 100 have been broken down into all the essential pattern elements 100a-e.
  • the jeans 100 are preferably disassembled in an essentially non-destructive manner, ie in such a way that the pattern elements 100a-e remain essentially intact. For example, only joining or connection points of the sample item of clothing 100 or the sample elements 100a-e are separated; this preferably by unraveling a seam so that the pattern elements 100ae themselves are retained. The same applies to cutting other fasteners such as adhesives or rivets. Adhesives can be dissolved, for example, by treatment with solvents or by heating. Rivets can be removed with appropriate tools.
  • the pattern elements 100a-e separated in this way are imaged digitally, for example with a detection unit 10 of the system 1, preferably by photographing or scanning.
  • the preferably essentially flat Pattern elements 100a-e preferably initially spread out in one plane. If pattern elements 100a-e cannot be spread out over a large area in one plane due to their nature, for example because they are formed from several individual parts and thus have an uneven or curved surface, they can, for example, be attached to a device provided for this purpose.
  • the pattern elements 100a-e are preferably placed on a high-contrast, for example light, background and particularly preferably fixed on this, for example by vacuum or pins.
  • a camera 10a such as a digital camera 10a, is used in the present embodiment to take a photograph.
  • the entire detection unit 10 can also have a scanner. Digital images of the pattern elements 100a-e are thus obtained as a result of the digital imaging.
  • the digital mapping can be performed simultaneously for all pattern elements 100a-e or also for only a part of the pattern elements 100a-e, including individual execution. It is preferred to image the outer sides of the pattern elements 100a-e only when the pattern item of clothing (here jeans) 100 is worn. However, in addition to this, one or more inside pages can also be displayed digitally.
  • the captured image for example the photograph taken, is preferably transmitted wired or wirelessly to a processing unit 41 of the system 1 and processed there as a digital image and/or stored or temporarily stored. Consequently, the digital images of the pattern elements 100a-e are obtained in the processing unit 41 on the basis of the digitally recorded pattern elements 100a-e.
  • image processing of the digital images obtained is preferably carried out in a further step.
  • This can be done by an image processing unit 42 of the system 1 and can include methods known per se for improving and/or changing the digital image. For example, individual areas of the digital image can be retouched or the color space can be adjusted.
  • Edge detection and/or determination preferably takes place by means of the processing unit 41 and/or image processing unit 42, by means of which the edges of the digital images are defined. This data can then be used by a cutting determination unit 43 of the system for a cutting process to be described later.
  • the system 1 can also have a personalization unit 44 in order to add an individual or customizable element 301, such as a personalized code 301, to the digital image, for example via the image processing unit 42 in the processing unit 41 supplement and thus integrate it into one of the digital images, for example.
  • the personalization unit 44 can be set up to generate or receive a personalized code 301 according to certain criteria and to transmit it to the image processing unit 42 .
  • Such an individual element 301 or personalizable code 301 can be a bar code or 2D code, for example. This can, for example, be information for controlling the individual production and/or handling process for a piece of clothing 300 and contain specific instructions.
  • the code 301 can thus contain, for example, handling and/or other process information which can be read out or used by subsequent units.
  • Such an individual element 301 is then preferably provided in an area that is not visible when the item of clothing 300 to be produced is in the assembled state when it is being worn.
  • Such an individual element or personalized code 301 can also be an element generated at the customer's request or assigned to the customer, such as initials, order information, shipping address, etc., which can be provided on a correspondingly visible or non-visible area of the garment 300 to be produced.
  • the individual element 301 can also contain product information of the garment 300, such as size information, model designation, etc.
  • the individual element 301 or the code 301 is preferably provided on an inner side of the garment 300 when the garment 300 is worn.
  • the optionally revised or individualized or personalized digital image is thus available for the production of an essentially unlimited number of items of clothing (here, for example, pants) 300 .
  • items of clothing here, for example, pants
  • only a sample item of clothing (here, for example, a pair of jeans) 100 is required to create a digital image of it, by means of which the process of printing, cutting and joining to be described below can then be carried out essentially unlimited times.
  • the method as a whole and in particular the digital imaging step is preferably controlled by a (central) control unit 40 of the system 1 .
  • the control unit 40 can be a computer system that is set up to control at least part and preferably all of the method steps by executing a corresponding computer program.
  • the control unit 40 includes, for example, the processing unit 41 , the image processing unit 42 , the cutting determination unit 43 and the personalization unit 44 and can be connectable or connected to an interface 50 of the system 1 .
  • the interface 50 is used for the input and/or output of information, and peripheral devices such as a screen 50a, a keyboard and the like can be/are connected to it. This also includes touch displays and portable, preferably wirelessly connectable devices such as tablets and smartphones. It is also possible by means of the interface 50 to specifically intervene in the course of the method, preferably by entering process information and preferably also to control the image processing.
  • elements 300a'-e' are printed on at least one flat textile 200 based on the digital images.
  • the digital image is preferably transmitted to a printing unit 20 .
  • the printing unit 20 preferably includes a print head 20a, which preferably prints using the inkjet method.
  • the printing unit 20 preferably comprises a conveyor belt 20b, ie a device by means of which the flat textile 200, for example a quasi-endless web of material 200, can be positioned and/or moved relative to the print head 20a. In the case of a conveyor belt 20b, this is preferably done by continuously unwinding the material web 200 along a main direction.
  • the conveyor belt 20b can fix the unwound sections by means of a vacuum.
  • the unwound and printed part 200' of the web of material 200 can be wound up again in order to implement a roll-to-roll process.
  • the unwound and printed part 200′ of the fabric web 200 can also be severed or connected seamlessly to a cutting device 30 which preferably processes or cuts the unwound and printed parts 200′ of the fabric web 200 directly.
  • the cutting device 30 is described in more detail below.
  • the printing unit 20 preferably has a plurality of print heads 20a in order to be able to implement the largest possible color space and, if necessary, special colors.
  • the material of the material web 200 is preferably suitable for direct printing, ie without the use of grounding, primer, etc.
  • the method according to the invention is fundamentally not subject to any restrictions with regard to the printing method to be used.
  • the inks are suitable for use in a printhead.
  • Reactive dyes, disperse dyes or direct dyes, especially pigment dyes, are preferably used.
  • all flat textiles can be considered as the substance 200 .
  • the present method is particularly preferably applied to a fabric with a cotton content, preferably from greater than 0% to 100%, more preferably from 50% to 100% cotton.
  • a drying step that takes place after the printing and fixes the printed colors is preferably also implemented by the printing unit 20 . Procedures for this are known. Heat setting is preferably used.
  • the fabric web 200 is printed in regions with the elements 300a'-e' on the basis of the images, ie a fabric web 200 at least partially printed with elements 300a'-e' is obtained.
  • the elements 300a′-e′ are each attached individually or in groups to a flat textile to be printed.
  • the digital images possibly in a prepared form, serve as a template for the printing process.
  • the individual element 301 such as order information, manufacturing process information or product information, is preferably printed on a side that is preferably on the inside when the item of clothing 300 is worn, for example in a waistband.
  • the textile 200 is cut into individual parts 300a-e each comprising at least one of the printed elements 300a'-e'.
  • the web of material 200 printed in this way is preferably fed to a cutting device 30 for cutting to size after printing.
  • the cutting device 30 preferably has a cutting control unit 30a and a cutting tool 30b functionally connected thereto. Using the cutting tool 30b, the printed elements 300a'-e' are preferably cut out along edges predetermined by the cutting determination unit 43, and the individual parts 300a-e are thus obtained.
  • the cutting determination unit 43 preferably determines the cutting edges based on the edges determined in the processing unit 41 . This may include the addition of machining margins and/or unprinted areas.
  • the cutting controller 30a can be set up to detect a previously applied individual element 301 such as a code 301 by means of a detection unit 30c. This makes it possible to assign production data, such as cutting data, to the element 300e' or cutting parameters. Furthermore, if necessary, additional commands can be executed by the cutting control unit 30a.
  • the individual parts 300a-e of the item of clothing 300 are obtained here by cutting out the printed elements 300a'-e', for example from the printed web of material 200.
  • the blanks each correspond exactly to the contours of an image or element 300a'-e', or that the blanks are larger than the respective image or element 300a'-e' by an additional unprinted area, preferably a Processing area such as a seam allowance is provided.
  • a blank can include multiple images or elements 300a'-e'. It is generally also conceivable that unprinted elements are cut to size in addition to the printed elements 300a'-e'. It is also included that the blank is smaller than the image or element 300a'-e', for example if desired imperfections are to be produced in the textile (tears, holes, fringes, etc.).
  • the elements 300a'-e' or the individual parts 300a-e finally become the item of clothing (here, for example, the pants) 300 according to the sample garment 100 joined; this preferably by means of a joining unit 60.
  • the joining step can also be carried out manually. Joining can be done with an automatic sewing machine and/or include the application of adhesives.
  • the item of clothing produced (here e.g. the pants) 300 is therefore similar in appearance and preferably also in construction or structure to the sample item of clothing (here e.g. the jeans) 100.
  • pants 300 corresponding to the jeans 100 are produced here by way of example.
  • the joining step and the joining unit 60 can include all known means and methods and preferably include sewing, gluing and/or riveting.
  • the trousers 300 are particularly preferably joined using the same means as the jeans 100 in order to achieve a high level of similarity with regard to the structure of the jeans 100 and trousers 300.
  • the steps for capturing the digital images i.e. providing the sample item of clothing 100, separating it and digitally imaging the pattern elements 100a-e and obtaining the digital images (possibly with image processing and possibly personalization) is preferably carried out at least or only once.
  • the subsequent steps for the final production of the garment 300 such as the printing of the elements 300a'-e', the optional cutting into the individual parts 300a-e and the joining to the garment 300, can then be repeated as often as desired in order to create the sample garment 100 replicate as often as you like.
  • FIG 2 objects used or manufactured in the method or in the system 1 are shown by way of example.
  • a pair of jeans 100 is shown which has undergone a complex post-treatment in order to obtain a specific appearance (“used look”). In the present example, this includes strong washes in the thigh area, holes and frayed areas and strongly accentuated folds.
  • Another intermediate step of the procedure described above is shown in the middle figure.
  • This shows individual parts 300a, 300b, .... obtained after printing and cutting structural replica of denim 100.
  • Such a post-processing step for post-processing the material of at least one of the elements 300a'-e', individual parts 300a-e and/or garment 300 can follow at least one of the steps of printing, cutting and/or joining.
  • By joining the items 300a, 300b, ... is finally a pair of pants 300, shown in the figure 2 right, received.
  • a garment 300 produced in this way is an independent part of the present invention.
  • the present invention is to be determined in its broadest form by the claims.
  • the described embodiments and the variations thereof are not limited to what is specifically described, but can be generalized.
  • the terms “trousers” mean any piece of clothing, “jeans” any sample piece of clothing, and “fabric” or “material” any sheet-like textile, insofar as this does not create a contradiction.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
EP20210562.3A 2020-11-30 2020-11-30 Procede et systeme de fabrication d'un article de vêtement Pending EP4005424A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP20210562.3A EP4005424A1 (fr) 2020-11-30 2020-11-30 Procede et systeme de fabrication d'un article de vêtement

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP20210562.3A EP4005424A1 (fr) 2020-11-30 2020-11-30 Procede et systeme de fabrication d'un article de vêtement

Publications (1)

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EP4005424A1 true EP4005424A1 (fr) 2022-06-01

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Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN100437628C (zh) * 2001-10-17 2008-11-26 恩尼格公司 服装纸样的自动数字化
US20150208746A1 (en) * 2002-05-25 2015-07-30 Owayo Gmbh Method for the production of printed items of clothing made from textile material
US20180066395A1 (en) * 2016-08-19 2018-03-08 Levi Strauss & Co. Laser Finishing System for Apparel

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN100437628C (zh) * 2001-10-17 2008-11-26 恩尼格公司 服装纸样的自动数字化
US20150208746A1 (en) * 2002-05-25 2015-07-30 Owayo Gmbh Method for the production of printed items of clothing made from textile material
US20180066395A1 (en) * 2016-08-19 2018-03-08 Levi Strauss & Co. Laser Finishing System for Apparel

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