EP3174433B1 - Applicateur à âme en fil métallique comprenant des poils à fibres creuses chanfreinés - Google Patents

Applicateur à âme en fil métallique comprenant des poils à fibres creuses chanfreinés Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3174433B1
EP3174433B1 EP15750010.9A EP15750010A EP3174433B1 EP 3174433 B1 EP3174433 B1 EP 3174433B1 EP 15750010 A EP15750010 A EP 15750010A EP 3174433 B1 EP3174433 B1 EP 3174433B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
bristles
bristle
filaments
wedge
mascara brush
Prior art date
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Application number
EP15750010.9A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP3174433A1 (fr
Inventor
Wolfgang KAMM
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Geka GmbH
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Geka GmbH
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Priority claimed from DE202014103567.2U external-priority patent/DE202014103567U1/de
Priority claimed from DE202014103564.8U external-priority patent/DE202014103564U1/de
Priority claimed from DE202014103565.6U external-priority patent/DE202014103565U1/de
Application filed by Geka GmbH filed Critical Geka GmbH
Publication of EP3174433A1 publication Critical patent/EP3174433A1/fr
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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A46BRUSHWARE
    • A46BBRUSHES
    • A46B9/00Arrangements of the bristles in the brush body
    • A46B9/02Position or arrangement of bristles in relation to surface of the brush body, e.g. inclined, in rows, in groups
    • A46B9/021Position or arrangement of bristles in relation to surface of the brush body, e.g. inclined, in rows, in groups arranged like in cosmetics brushes, e.g. mascara, nail polish, eye shadow
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A46BRUSHWARE
    • A46BBRUSHES
    • A46B3/00Brushes characterised by the way in which the bristles are fixed or joined in or on the brush body or carrier
    • A46B3/18Brushes characterised by the way in which the bristles are fixed or joined in or on the brush body or carrier the bristles being fixed on or between belts or wires
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A46BRUSHWARE
    • A46DMANUFACTURE OF BRUSHES
    • A46D1/00Bristles; Selection of materials for bristles
    • A46D1/02Bristles details
    • A46D1/0207Bristles characterised by the choice of material, e.g. metal
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A46BRUSHWARE
    • A46DMANUFACTURE OF BRUSHES
    • A46D1/00Bristles; Selection of materials for bristles
    • A46D1/02Bristles details
    • A46D1/023Bristles with at least a core and at least a partial sheath
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A46BRUSHWARE
    • A46DMANUFACTURE OF BRUSHES
    • A46D1/00Bristles; Selection of materials for bristles
    • A46D1/02Bristles details
    • A46D1/0238Bristles with non-round cross-section
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A46BRUSHWARE
    • A46DMANUFACTURE OF BRUSHES
    • A46D1/00Bristles; Selection of materials for bristles
    • A46D1/02Bristles details
    • A46D1/0246Hollow bristles
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A46BRUSHWARE
    • A46DMANUFACTURE OF BRUSHES
    • A46D1/00Bristles; Selection of materials for bristles
    • A46D1/02Bristles details
    • A46D1/0261Roughness structure on the bristle surface
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A46BRUSHWARE
    • A46DMANUFACTURE OF BRUSHES
    • A46D1/00Bristles; Selection of materials for bristles
    • A46D1/02Bristles details
    • A46D1/0276Bristles having pointed ends
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A46BRUSHWARE
    • A46BBRUSHES
    • A46B2200/00Brushes characterized by their functions, uses or applications
    • A46B2200/10For human or animal care
    • A46B2200/1046Brush used for applying cosmetics
    • A46B2200/1053Cosmetics applicator specifically for mascara

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a mascara brush with a core made of at least two wire sections twisted together and with a bristle facing made of bristles that are formed by filaments that are hollow on the inside and that are held clamped between the two wire sections.
  • Such applicators are also referred to as wire core applicators.
  • Your bristles should have the highest possible mass storage capacity, so that the applicator only has to be dipped once or only a few times into the supply of cosmetics in order to coat the eyelashes with a sufficiently voluminous layer of mascara.
  • their bristles should have the best possible separation capacity, ie the ability to separate obliquely superimposed eyelashes of the eyelash arch from one another separate and align largely parallel. This is not least because the eyelashes can only be given the desired volume by the mascara mass if they are individually coated all around and are not already soaked in tufts of mascara mass.
  • the starting point for achieving this is to provide the mascara applicator with bristles which, after dipping into the mascara supply, each carry the thickest possible film of mascara mass.
  • the mascara brush according to the invention has a core made of at least two wire sections twisted together and a bristle facing made of filaments which are hollow on the inside and which are each held clamped between the two wire sections.
  • the filaments form bristles, which are usually no longer in the clamping area of the wire core, but are otherwise hollow on the inside and thus have the necessary capillary effect to absorb mascara mass. It is in no way important that mascara mass is drawn into the bristle over the whole or most of its length by the capillary effect; rather, mostly what is happening at the radially outward end of the respective bristle is of interest.
  • the mascara brush according to the invention is characterized in a first aspect in that the radially outward, free ends of the bristles are cut obliquely in the manner of a simple wedge, so that a first side of the bristle in question, seen from the wire core along the respective bristle, is seen from a has a maximum length and the diametrically opposite second side has a minimum length.
  • the bristle ends are not chisel- or roof-like, i. H. sharpened from two sides.
  • the cut face which runs obliquely in a wedge-like manner to the longitudinal axis of the bristle and, figuratively speaking, resembles the obliquely cut end of a cut rose.
  • the bevel cut and the resulting wedge surface make the mouth of the bristle significantly larger and thus create a larger area in which the mascara mass can be stored in such a way that it is immediately available for dispensing when it is applied and that The mascara stored a little deeper in the interior of the bristles can also be released more easily via the larger mouth area.
  • the cut surface of the bristles resulting from the bevel cut forms a large contact area along which the individual eyelashes can slide for some time before they slip off the end face of the bristle and lie down between neighboring bristles.
  • the eyelashes have plenty of opportunity to be wetted with mascara mass. This also distinguishes the invention from the prior art, because the individual eyelashes can only stay for a much shorter time on the small-area end face of a hollow bristle running essentially perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the bristles without a sloping cut surface before they slip off into the spaces between the bristles.
  • the surface roughness (Rz) of the respective cut surface (4) can be between 0.2 ⁇ m and 6. 3 ⁇ m, in particular between 2.9 ⁇ m and 6.3 ⁇ m.
  • the surface roughness Rz also known as roughness depth, is to be determined in accordance with DIN EN ISO 4287/4288.
  • wedge-shaped cut surfaces which improve combing and have the indicated roughness Rz between 0.2 ⁇ m and 6.3 ⁇ m, in particular between 2.9 ⁇ m and 6.3 ⁇ m, improves the mascara absorption capacity of each wedge-shaped, obliquely cut bristle. It is of particular advantage here that the sloping cut surfaces have a good mascara absorption capacity due to the roughness according to the invention and thus also a correspondingly good mascara delivery capacity to the eyelash hairs initially sliding along them during the combing process.
  • the cut surfaces are of particular importance insofar as the eyelashes are first guided and slide along this surface during the make-up process at the beginning of the make-up movement.
  • the surface roughness (Rz) can be produced in particular by grinding the bristle ends using a grinding wheel.
  • the roughness and the associated mass absorption and mass storage capacity for mascara mass are improved by the roughening.
  • the desired roughness of the inclined cutting surface can be influenced and defined.
  • a mascara brush with a core made of at least two wire sections twisted together and a bristle facing made of bristles formed by filaments.
  • the filaments are each held clamped between the two wire sections.
  • the bristles are made of a hollow plastic material and have a wedge-shaped tip at their free end instead of an end face running essentially perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the bristles.
  • bristles as a whole have a wedge-shaped tip with at least one cut surface and some of the bristles have a wedge-shaped tip formed by a bevel cut and with a cut surface.
  • the at least one wedge surface with which a bristle can be equipped according to the invention makes it possible to push the bristle between the eyelashes at the beginning of application in such a way that the respective eyelash stays in better contact with the bristle, and that too even after the eyelash has slipped off the cut surface forming the wedge surface into the region of the bristle shaft.
  • the respective bristle shaft and the cut surfaces which store a thicker film of mascara mass due to their increased roughness, can deliver more of this mascara mass to the eyelashes. This results in a better coating of the eyelash. Last but not least, this benefits the eyelash volume that can be achieved.
  • the wedge-shaped tip of the respective bristle is formed by a bevel cut in the manner of a simple wedge, so that a first side of the bristle in question has a maximum length (L MAX ) and its diametrically opposite second side has a minimum length (L MIN ).
  • L MAX maximum length
  • L MIN minimum length
  • the wedge-shaped tip can be formed by a double oblique cut consisting of two converging surfaces which intersect at the free end of the bristle, at least in its imaginary one Renewal.
  • the bristle in question can act on both sides and thus influence two eyelashes that have applied against the bristle from different sides.
  • Some of the bristles can have a wedge-shaped tip formed by a double oblique cut, which comprises two converging cutting surfaces which intersect or their imaginary extensions intersect at or in the area of the free end of a respective bristle.
  • a bristle designed in this way can displace eyelashes on both sides and thus separate them. Unlike a bristle that is simply cut off at an angle, such a bristle does not show any disturbing preferred direction.
  • cut surfaces are essentially flat.
  • two opposite cut surfaces at the same bristle end are essentially the same size.
  • the bristles can be aligned in such a way that one or the two opposite cutting surfaces at a bristle tip are arranged transversely to the longitudinal axis of the wire core, in which case the bristles in particular, which are only equipped with a cutting surface on one side, are arranged and aligned in such a way that a Part of the respective cut surfaces is aligned with the direction towards the brush tip bearing the bristles and a part towards the opposite end of the brush.
  • the invention is therefore characterized in that the cut surfaces are aligned transversely, in particular perpendicularly, to the longitudinal axis (LD) of the wire core.
  • the cut surfaces of the bristles are aligned with a cut surface partially in the direction of the end of the brush and partially in the direction of the brush tip.
  • the cut surface formed by the bevel cut is aligned in such a way that, when looking along the longitudinal axis of the wire core (i.e. with a frontal view of the free end of the wire core or with a frontal view of the free end provided for attachment to the handle end of wire core) looks at the gate face frontally, while looking circumferentially does not look at the gate surface. This preferably applies to all bristles of the trimming.
  • a mascara brush can have several different types of bristles on its bristle tip.
  • a bristle trimming in its entirety can have bristles with a tip that is not pointed and not wedge-shaped and bristles with a bristle tip that is wedge-shaped and has two opposite cut surfaces and bristles with a bristle tip that is wedge-shaped but only has a cut surface on one side, the cut surfaces being divided into different Directions, once towards the end of the bristle and once towards the bristle tip, have. It is therefore particularly expedient if the individual types of bristles are arranged systematically in the bristle stock and are assigned to areas, zones or sectors of the bristle stock.
  • the bristle stocking has several areas, sectors or zones which, in the circumferential direction of the bristle stocking, run transversely, in particular perpendicularly, to the longitudinal axis of the wire core (LD) or in the circumferential direction of the bristle stocking spirally to the longitudinal axis of the wire core (LD) or in Longitudinally of the bristle facing along, in particular parallel, to the wire core longitudinal axis (LD) are aligned running, and each at least one of several to each other adjacent bristles each having a similarly designed bristle tip, or are formed by such a row of bristles, and which are arranged in the circumferential direction and/or in the longitudinal direction of the bristle facing adjacent to a/an area or sector or zone comprising a plurality of bristles, whose/ whose bristles have a bristle tip that is designed differently.
  • the bristle stock it is also possible for the bristle stock to have several areas, sectors or zones that run in the circumferential direction of the bristle stock transversely, in particular perpendicularly, to the longitudinal axis of the wire core (LD) or in the circumferential direction of the bristle stock spirally to the longitudinal axis of the wire core (LD) or in the longitudinal direction of the bristle stock along , in particular parallel, to the longitudinal axis of the wire core (LD) and which each comprise at least one row of bristles consisting of a plurality of adjacent bristles, the adjacent bristles of which each have a differently designed bristle tip.
  • bristle types of the bristle types described above or in this application as a whole can be arranged alternately adjacent to one another in an area or a zone or a sector and thereby form an area or a zone or a sector.
  • an area or a zone or a sector comprises at least two bristles. All conceivable combinations of bristle types and areas, zones and sectors are of course possible. For example, must not all of the bristle types mentioned above or all of the types of bristles described as a whole occur in every zone or in every area or in every sector or are basically present in a set of bristles.
  • the invention therefore provides that the several areas, sectors or zones in the circumferential direction transverse or along the longitudinal axis (LD) of the wire core once sweep over the circumference or a partial area of the circumference of the bristle facing.
  • an area or a zone or a sector covers an angular distance that makes up 1/8 to 1/64 of the circumference or the enveloping circle of the bristle facing and thus an angular extension between 5.6° and 45°.
  • bristles each equipped with a beveled cutting surface it can be expedient to alternate between an area or a sector or a zone in which the cutting surfaces of all the bristles are aligned pointing in the direction of the brush tip and an area or a sector or a zone , in which / which the cut surfaces of all bristles are aligned pointing towards the end of the brush.
  • the bristle stocking consists of bristles or filaments with a wedge-shaped point and further bristles or filaments without a wedge-shaped point, the bristle stock being preferably designed in such a way that the bristles or filaments with a wedge-shaped point have one or more sectors ( en) of the set of bristles and the further bristles or filaments form one or more further sector(s), the sector(s) and the further sector(s) preferably and ideally alternating in the circumferential direction follow one another, which the invention also provides in an embodiment.
  • there is expedient for there to be between 1 and 8 sectors and between 1 and 8 further sectors.
  • the bristles or filaments with a wedge-shaped tip are arranged in the bristle stock, which otherwise consists of other bristles or filaments, so that they form a path running spirally on the peripheral surface of the bristle stock, which the invention also provides.
  • the other bristles or filaments can consist of the same material as the bristles or filaments with a wedge-shaped tip.
  • the chisel surfaces of the bristles or filaments with a wedge-shaped tip are aligned perpendicular to the course of the imaginary longitudinal axis of the spiral path, neglecting their wedge angle.
  • the angle ( ⁇ ) by which the cut surface(s) formed by the bevel cut or the double bevel cut is/are inclined relative to the longitudinal axis of the bristles maintains the relationship ⁇ 55° and ideally even ⁇ 35°.
  • This is preferably accompanied by a so-called double bevel, i. H. one and the same cutting surface is ground a first time and then, in a separate operation, a second time, which allows such a steep angle to be achieved.
  • the invention is therefore further characterized in that for the angle by which the cut surface(s) formed by the bevel cut or the double bevel cut is/are inclined relative to the longitudinal axis of the bristles, the relationship ⁇ 55°, preferably ⁇ 35°, in particular ⁇ ⁇ 20°.
  • the filaments forming the bristles can have a non-round cross-section and preferably a polygonal or square cross-section.
  • the bristles or filaments according to the invention has turned out to be particularly favorable to design the bristles or filaments according to the invention to be tubular, hollow on the inside, preferably over their entire length (before twisting). This results in a particularly favorable, synergistic effect, precisely when the bevel cut is made by grinding the bristles will be produced. If the bristle is hollow on the inside, it can store mascara mass in its hollow space, which is released to the outside in the course of application via the mouth of the hollow space, which lies in the middle of the center of the cut surface. The lashes are thus already pre-coated as they slide along the cut surface, which further improves the mascara application overall.
  • the bevel cut and the resulting wedge surface allows the mouth of the hollow bristle to be significantly larger and thus creates a larger area in which the mascara mass can be stored so that it is immediately available for dispensing when it is applied and that the mascara stored a little deeper inside the bristles can be released more easily via the larger mouth area.
  • the cut surface of the bristles resulting from the bevel cut forms a large contact area along which the individual eyelashes can slide for some time before they slip off the end face of the bristle and lie down between neighboring bristles. Meanwhile, the eyelashes have plenty of opportunity to be wetted with mascara mass.
  • the individual eyelashes can only stay for a significantly shorter time on a small-area end face of a hollow bristle, which runs essentially perpendicularly to the longitudinal axis of the bristles, before they slip off into the spaces between the bristles.
  • the invention is therefore characterized in that the bristles or filaments are tubular and hollow inside and preferably in the direction along them
  • Longitudinal axis are continuously slotted. It is favorable to design the bristles or filaments to be continuously slotted in the direction along their longitudinal axis. In this way, the bristles or filaments become somewhat more unstable, or their stability can be better controlled, so that the bristles deform more during application in such a way that bristles are stored in their cavity Mascara mass is dispensed through the mouth in the area of the bevel cut.
  • the outside diameter of bristles that are circular is 1 ⁇ 115 ⁇ m and even better ⁇ 215 ⁇ m.
  • the outer diameter of the circular bristles used in the invention is 1 ⁇ 320 ⁇ m.
  • the embodiment of the invention is therefore also characterized in that the outer diameter of circular bristles is ⁇ 115 ⁇ m, preferably ⁇ 215 ⁇ m, and ⁇ 320 ⁇ m.
  • the outside enveloping circle of bristles that are non-circular in cross-section has an enveloping circle diameter that is ⁇ 100 ⁇ m and more preferably ⁇ 200 ⁇ m.
  • the outside enveloping circle of the bristles used in the invention and having a non-circular cross-section is ⁇ 340 ⁇ m and better still ⁇ 320 ⁇ m.
  • the invention is also characterized in that the outside enveloping circle of non-circular bristles has an enveloping circle diameter that is ⁇ 100 ⁇ m, preferably ⁇ 200 ⁇ m, and ⁇ 340 ⁇ m, in particular ⁇ 320 ⁇ m.
  • the enveloping circle is to be understood here as the circle in which the respective cross section of the bristle can be inscribed in the best possible way.
  • Both the outer diameter of the bristles and the enveloping circle diameter are ⁇ 340 ⁇ m, in particular ⁇ 320 ⁇ m, because otherwise the bristles become so coarse that their ability to separate the eyelashes is restricted too far.
  • the wall thickness of the bristles used measured perpendicularly to the outer surface be between 15 ⁇ m and 100 ⁇ m.
  • the wall thickness of the bristles or their bristle casing, which delimits the cavity inside the bristle, is selected in each case in such a way that the hollow bristle undergoes sufficiently strong deformations under the influence of the forces typically occurring during application, by the mass stored in its interior to push outside.
  • the corners of the radially outward bristle tips are rounded.
  • particles can also be added to the plastic material, or an additional effect that improves the mass absorption capacity can also be achieved by so-called indentations, i.e. punctiform depressions, instead of particles protruding locally over the surface, i. H. by a large number of local indentations in the bristle surface, which (seen microscopically or greatly enlarged) profile the bristle surface like a crispbread and thus make it more absorbent.
  • the number of indentations or punctiform indentations or indentations distributed over a respective bristle is more than 200.
  • the wire core applicator has a particularly dense set of bristles.
  • the separating capacity of the bristles can be further increased by making the bristles from as hard a material as possible, which gives the bristles greater rigidity and buckling resistance with the same diameter and therefore has two positive effects.
  • a stiff bristle is inherently better at penetrating between overlapping eyelashes in the eyelash arch.
  • a stiff bristle also shows a significantly lower Tendency to avoid the grinding wheel and therefore offers the possibility of a stronger point cut than a softer bristle.
  • the problem arises that the quality of the outer edge of the ground surface can decrease during the grinding.
  • the edge no longer forms a clean, continuous line, but instead shows a jagged contour, which can prevent the eyelashes from sliding along the edge.
  • the bristles consist of two different plastics, have a bristle casing made of a first, softer material and a bristle core, connected to the bristle casing, made of a second, harder material. Since bristles that are as hard as possible and at the same time slim are advantageous for separating eyelashes as efficiently as possible, it would have made sense to make the coat of the filament or the coat of the bristles from the harder material and not the core.
  • the core also gives the filament or the bristles formed by the filament greater flexural rigidity, even if the bristle ends are generously ground and thereby lose most of their original coat in the ground area.
  • the hard core which is largely retained during grinding, simplifies sharpening the free bristle ends as flatly as possible by grinding them, because it prevents the bristles from escaping the grinding wheel too easily and therefore not coming into close enough contact with the grinding wheel to be sanded efficiently and above all over a considerable length. Consequently the described configuration of the bristles makes it much easier to provide the respective bristle end with a wedge angle that is as flat as possible and at least one wedge surface that is as long as possible.
  • the soft coat which is supported by the hard core, behaves extremely well when sanded and surprisingly forms a well-defined outer edge, free from fraying and/or breakouts, i. H. Irregularities on which the individual eyelashes could get caught when the sharpened bristle end penetrates the eyelash trimmings, which could have a negative impact on the separation result.
  • the majority of the filaments or bristles of the bristle facing consists of such a material mix and structure.
  • the filaments are preferably made of the softer material that is also used for the ground filaments.
  • the first and preferably also the second material can be a plastic, ideally a thermoplastic.
  • the two plastics can be firmly connected to each other by coextrusion and the filaments can Be parts of an endless coextruded thread or multiple endless coextruded threads.
  • Co-extrusion is not just any arbitrary, interchangeable process, but imprints its special microstructure on the endless thread and thus also on the filaments cut from it and the bristles formed from it.
  • This microstructure is characterized on the one hand by the fact that the two different plastic materials are particularly intimately bonded or welded or fused to one another and on the other hand by the fact that their plastic molecule chains have a significant orientation in the direction of the longitudinal axis, which later forms the longitudinal axis of the bristles.
  • a cavity can be created, for example, after the coextrusion of such a filament by slitting and partial coring.
  • the second material to be preferred is one that has a modulus of elasticity (E modulus) of at least ⁇ 1300 N/mm 2 . It is significantly better if the second material has at least a modulus of elasticity of ⁇ 1700 N/mm 2 . For most applications it is advisable if the modulus of elasticity of the second material does not exceed 2700 N/mm 2 .
  • E modulus modulus of elasticity
  • the first material can have a Shore D hardness of ⁇ 80.
  • the procedure for measuring the Shore hardness D is standardized, the relevant standards are DIN EN ISO 868 and DIN ISO 7619-1.
  • the filaments in the non-clamped state ie before they are clamped between the twisted wire legs, have a non-round cross-section over their entire length and preferably a square cross-section.
  • the angle a by which the cut surface formed by the bevel cut is inclined relative to the longitudinal axis L of the bristles, maintains the relationship ⁇ 55° and ideally even ⁇ 35°.
  • a long oblique cut results, via which a significant part of the mascara mass stored by the relevant bristle can also be released again.
  • an angle ⁇ 20° is provided, which leads to particularly slender bristles.
  • the cut surface of the bevel cut is aligned in such a way that when looking along the longitudinal axis of the applicator (i.e. when looking frontally at the free end of the wire core or when looking frontally at the end of the wire core) looking at the gate surface and not looking along the circumferential direction.
  • the area in the direction of movement of eyelashes moving radially inward into the bristle stocking is of maximum size, so that the chance that individual eyelashes hit the cutting surface directly is particularly high.
  • the outer diameter of the circular bristles according to the invention is preferably greater than or equal to 115 ⁇ m and even better is greater than or equal to 215 ⁇ m. For many applications, it is preferably the case that the outer diameter should preferably not exceed 320 ⁇ m, because otherwise the bristles become so coarse that their ability to separate the eyelashes is restricted too far.
  • the outside enveloping circle of the bristles according to the invention which are non-circular, has an enveloping circle diameter that is greater than or equal to 100 ⁇ m and better still greater than or equal to 200 ⁇ m.
  • the enveloping circle is to be understood here as the circle in which the respective cross section of the bristle can be inscribed in the best possible way.
  • the wall thickness of the bristles or their bristle casing, which delimits the cavity inside the bristle, must be chosen so that the bristle undergoes sufficiently strong deformations under the influence of the forces typically occurring during application in order for the mass stored inside to move outwards press.
  • the wall thickness of the bristles according to the invention, measured perpendicular to the outer surface, is therefore preferably between 15 ⁇ m and 100 ⁇ m, the limit values included in each case.
  • Such an applicator or such a mascara brush 18 as him / her 8 shows is usually produced in that between at least one wire clip 11 with two straight wire sections 12, 13, a plurality of initially mostly straight filaments is inserted.
  • a filament in the context of the invention is preferably a section of an endlessly extruded fiber.
  • the filaments are inserted between the wire sections 12, 13 of the wire clamp 11 in such a way that they protrude to the same extent on both sides of the wire clamp 11 or its wire sections 12, 13 (preferably a maximum of +/-10%).
  • the wire sections 12, 13 are then twisted together, causing the filaments to disperse and eventually become firmly pinched between the wire sections.
  • Each filament forms i. i.e. R. then two bristles 1 out.
  • the brush contour is cut with a milling cutter and counter-knife while the brush rotates in such a way that the large number of radially protruding bristles correspond exactly to a given brush body according to the drawing.
  • the bristles are beveled according to the invention, mostly by grinding.
  • Figures 1 and 2 show the details of an embodiment of a bristle 1 according to the invention.
  • the bristle has a circular cross-section and the bristle is hollow on the inside, preferably over its entire length up to its base-side anchoring point between the twisted wires, cf. 1 .
  • the bristle thus forms a tube, the interior of which can receive and store mascara mass at least in the vicinity of its opening to the outside.
  • the bristle 1 At its radially outward, free end, the bristle 1 has a bevel cut 3 in the manner of a simple wedge. This means that a first side of the relevant bristle, seen in the direction along the longitudinal axis L of the bristle, has a maximum length L MAX and the second side diametrically opposite it has a minimum length LMIN . One side of the bristle is longer than the side diametrically opposite it, cf. 2 .
  • the bristle is not only cut "a little" obliquely, but shows a clearly recognizable oblique cut 3.
  • the relationship ⁇ ⁇ applies to the angle at which the cut surface 4 formed by the oblique cut 3 is inclined relative to the longitudinal axis L of the bristle 55° and ideally even ⁇ ⁇ 35°.
  • An additional bevel has a particularly advantageous effect on the slenderness of the wedge, with which an angle ⁇ ⁇ 20° can be achieved.
  • Figures 1 and 2 show an optional exemplary embodiment, the cut surface 4 of which is essentially flat, ie is flat in itself.
  • Another embodiment, which is again clearly preferred for certain applications, is 7 represented figuratively.
  • This embodiment corresponds to that of the Figures 1 and 2
  • the embodiment shown is complete and differs therefrom only in that the cut surface 4 is curved convexly outwards, at least in some areas, mostly predominantly.
  • the cut surface is convexly curved (roughly in the manner of a pocket watch crystal) in two mutually perpendicular directions.
  • tests have shown that such a convex curvature again significantly improves the release of the stored mascara mass and the wetting of the eyelashes sliding past.
  • the effect achieved with the invention can best be based on the 3 explain.
  • the mascara mass shown here in black penetrates completely or at least a little into the hollow bristle core 5 and is stored there. If the bristles are moved or bent, e.g. B. when it passes through the wiper and / or in the course of the actual application, a certain overpressure arises in the hollow bristle core, which in any case pushes out the mascara mass stored in the vicinity of the mouth somewhat outwards, so that the mascara mass is ready for delivery to the eyelashes .
  • the cutting surface 4 can come into better contact with the eyelashes (usually longer and more intensively) than a small end surface running approximately perpendicular to the longitudinal axis L of the bristles. Because such a small forehead is harder for the eyelashes to hit and when an eyelash has laid on this small forehead, then the further movement of the eyelashes inward in the direction of the trimming is impeded, so that a tension builds up that causes the eyelashes to jump off the small forehead, often before a large part of the mascara mass available at the bristle mouth can be delivered to them. This is different with the bristles designed according to the invention. Here the movement of the eyelashes W in the inward direction of the trimming is not significantly impeded.
  • the eyelashes W can gradually slide along the large cut surface 4 in the direction inward of the stocking and intensively absorb the mascara mass. This improves the loading of the lashes with mascara mass and at the same time improves the ability of the bristles to penetrate between the lashes.
  • the bristle outer diameter 9 drawn in there which should preferably be at least 115 ⁇ m and even better at least 215 ⁇ m for circular bristles.
  • the wall thickness 7 of the bristles according to the invention is drawn in, which should preferably be between 15 ⁇ m and 100 ⁇ m, inclusive in each case.
  • the cut surface 4 preferably does not merge into the outer peripheral surface of the bristle with a sharp edge, but with the formation of a rounding, which of course does not have to be circular.
  • the bevel cut is not made by correspondingly oblique cutting when cutting the continuous thread into individual filaments, but by grinding the radially outward ends of the bristles, the held between the wire sections already twisted together.
  • the preferred embodiment can be implemented in which the cut surfaces 4 of the inclined cuts 3 are aligned in such a way that when you look along the longitudinal axis LD of the wire core or the brush as a whole looks at her. This considerably improves the contact between the eyelashes and the bristles, because the cutting surfaces 4 then present themselves with a maximum area, seen in the direction in which the eyelashes move relative to the bristles.
  • the angle at which the grinding wheel must be held and moved relative to the brush for this purpose cannot be generally defined numerically due to the strong dependence on the stiffness and length of the bristles actually used find out what bristles he is using once he has been instructed on what he is supposed to achieve systematically.
  • the 4 Fig. 12 shows a second embodiment which is a modification of the first embodiment.
  • the bristle according to the invention is slotted in the direction of the longitudinal axis of the bristle in this exemplary embodiment.
  • the slot is preferably carried out like the Figure 4a illustrated.
  • the slit is then designed in such a way that it "gaps", ie the edges of the slit do not touch one another when the bristle is not under load, so that the free cross-section of the slit is practically zero.
  • the slit is preferably designed to occupy between 7% and 21% of the total area of the wall cross-section that an identical but unslit bristle has.
  • the cut-out angle ⁇ describing the slit preferably satisfies the following relationship: 15° ⁇ 50° ⁇ .
  • the slit described is the result of the use of filaments slit end-to-end along the length. These filaments are of course “squashed” in the area of their nip between the twisted wire sections so that they form bristles which are slotted from their radially outward end to the nip area between the twisted wire sections.
  • the slit has the advantage that the bristles tend to be more easily deformed, so that even the low forces occurring during the actual application can be sufficient to deform the bristles in such a way that the mascara mass initially stored in their hollow bristle core 5 passes through the mouth at the cut surface 4 and/or the slit 8 emerges to the outside and is then available there for absorption by the eyelashes.
  • the figure 5 shows a third embodiment, which is a modification of the embodiment examples described above in the form of bristles with a circular cross-section.
  • the bristle according to the invention in this exemplary embodiment is not round but non-round or preferably has a polygonal or quadrangular, ideally square, cross-section.
  • bristles with a non-round cross-section are in many cases much more suitable for the implementation of the invention than bristles with a round cross-section.
  • the bristles can be given a so-called preferred direction, i. H. a direction in which the bristles have an increased bending stiffness.
  • the preferred direction can be linked to the cut 3 in such a way that the forces that arise on the wedge surface and tend to "bend the bristles aside" are absorbed particularly well, so that the bristles do not give way prematurely, but rather long and intensively with the force against the cut surface 4 adjacent eyelash remains in contact.
  • the bristles can "work” or deform, not least under the influence of the forces occurring during application, in such a way that the mascara mass stored in the core of the bristle is released to the outside, but on the other hand it is reliably avoided that the bristle is regularly so overloaded during the application that it collapses or buckles due to the slit and is then no longer able to make any further really meaningful contribution to the make-up result, but instead begins to "smear" until it has straightened up again after the overload has ended .
  • FIG. 12 illustrates some characteristics of this embodiment according to FIG figure 5 .
  • the enveloping circle shown in dot-dash lines, which envelops the outer circumference of the bristle profile, can be seen here.
  • the diameter of the bristle profile is preferably chosen such that the following applies to the enveloping circle diameter 9*: 9* ⁇ 100 ⁇ m and better 9* ⁇ 200 ⁇ m.
  • the bristles of the applicators according to the invention consist entirely of hollow filaments.
  • a mix of the hollow filaments according to the invention and solid, preferably equally ground filaments is preferred, with the hollow filaments usually being in the majority.
  • the 11, 12 and 13 illustrate a variant of the mascara brush according to the invention with an extremely advantageous application and separation effect.
  • the bristles here consist of bristles 1a formed by filaments with a bevel cut, as described above, and of other bristles 1b, also formed of filaments, without a bevel cut.
  • the bristle facing is designed in such a way that the bristles 1a with a bevel cut form a plurality of sectors 100 of the set of bristles and the other bristles 1b form a further sector 101 .
  • the sectors and the further sectors in the circumferential direction finally follow one another in a repeating, alternating pattern.
  • the number of sectors depends on the individual application and the rheological properties of the cosmetic used. Preferably there are between 1 to 8 sectors and between 1 to 8 other sectors.
  • the filaments or bristles with a bevel cut are arranged in the bristle facing that otherwise consists of other filaments so that they form a path running spirally on the peripheral surface of the bristle facing, which is not shown here in the figures.
  • the other filaments are made of the same material as the filaments with the bevel cut.
  • the trimming is designed in such a way that the inclined surfaces of the filaments with a bevel cut, neglecting their wedge or bevel angle, are perpendicular to the course of the imaginary longitudinal axis of the spiral track are aligned.
  • the 14 illustrates a variant of the mascara brush according to the invention with an extremely advantageous application and separation effect.
  • the bristle facing 26 consists of bristles 1a, 1c formed by filaments with a wedge-shaped point and other bristles 1b also formed from filaments without a wedge-shaped point, with the bristles 1a, 1c differing only with regard to the orientation of their cut surface 4.
  • the cut face 4 of each of the bristles 1a faces the brush end 16 and the cut face 4 of each of the bristles 1c faces the brush tip 15.
  • the bristle stock 26 is designed in such a way that the bristles 1a with wedge-shaped taper arranged adjacent to several in a row of bristles 17 form a sector 100 of the bristle stock 26, the bristles 1c with wedge-shaped taper arranged adjacent to several in a row of bristles 17' form a sector 102 of the bristle stock 26 form, and the further bristles 1b arranged in a row of bristles 17'' form a further sector 101 of the bristle stock 26.
  • the sectors 100 and 102 and the further sector 101 follow one another alternately in the circumferential direction.
  • Sector 102 is again followed by a sector 101.
  • the sequence of sectors continues until a 360° circular arc is closed over the circumference of the bristle facing 26 .
  • the number of sectors depends on the individual application and the rheological properties of the cosmetic used. Preferably between 1 to 8 sectors 100, 102 and between 1 to 8 further sectors 101 are present.
  • the filaments or bristles 1a, 1c with a wedge-shaped tip are arranged in the bristle stock 26, which otherwise consists of further filaments or bristles 1, 1b, so that they form a path running spirally on the peripheral surface of the bristle stock 26, which is shown here is not shown figuratively.
  • the other filaments or bristles 1b are made of the same material as the filaments or bristles 1a, 1c with a wedge-shaped tip.
  • the bristles are designed in such a way that the chisel surfaces of the filaments or bristles with a wedge-shaped tip, neglecting their wedge angle, are aligned perpendicular to the course of the imaginary longitudinal axis of the spiral path are.
  • bristles 1a, 1b, 1c of a respective row of bristles 17, 17', 17" are of the same design with regard to the formation of the bristle tip
  • a row of bristles can of course also be made of Bristles may be formed, each having differently designed bristle tips. It is thus possible for bristles 1a, 1b, 1c to be formed next to one another and adjacent to one another in a row of bristles, which are arranged in a recurring pattern relative to one another, with the pattern forming a sector, a region or a zone. All conceivable combinations are executable. Sectors, areas or zones can also run spirally over the circumference of the bristle facing 26 or be arranged, formed and aligned to run in the longitudinal direction of the longitudinal axis LD of the wire core.

Landscapes

  • Brushes (AREA)

Claims (15)

  1. Une brosse à mascara avec un noyau intérieur constitué d'au moins deux tronçons de fil (12, 13) torsadés l'un avec l'autre, et une garniture de poils (26) constituée de poils (1) formés par des filaments creux à l'intérieur qui sont chacun maintenus serrés entre les deux tronçons de fil, caractérisée en ce que les extrémités radialement extérieures et libres des poils ont une coupe oblique (3) à la manière d'une simple cale de sorte qu'un premier côté du poil en question a une dimension longitudinale maximale (Lmax) et le second côté diamétralement opposé à celui-ci a une dimension longitudinale minimale (LMIN), et que les coins des pointes de poils radialement extérieurs sont arrondis.
  2. Une brosse à mascara avec un noyau intérieur constitué d'au moins deux tronçons de fil (12, 13) torsadés l'un avec l'autre le long d'un axe longitudinal du noyau en fil (LD), et une garniture de poils (26) constituée de poils (1) en matière plastique formés par des filaments qui sont chacun maintenus serrés entre les deux tronçons de fil (12, 13) et qui ont une pointe de poil en forme de cale (3) à leurs extrémités libres ou qui sont conçus sans pointe de poil en forme de cale, les poils étant formés, en particulier au moins partiellement, de filaments creux à l'intérieur, caractérisés en ce que, en particulier au moins, les poils conçus de manière creuse à l'intérieur ont une coupe oblique (3) à la manière d'une simple cale à leurs extrémités radialement extérieures et libres et comportent une pointe de poil en forme de cale avec au moins une surface de coupe (4) formant une cale et que les coins des pointes de poils radialement extérieurs sont arrondis.
  3. La brosse à mascara selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisée en ce que les surfaces de coupe (4) des poils (1) sont partiellement orientées en direction de l'extrémité de brosse (16) et partiellement en direction de la pointe de brosse (15).
  4. La brosse à mascara selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la garniture de poils comporte une pluralité de régions, de secteurs ou de zones (100, 102), qui sont alignés de manière à s'étendre, dans la direction circonférentielle de la garniture de poils (26), transversalement, en particulier perpendiculairement, par rapport à l'axe longitudinal du noyau en fil (LD) ou, dans la direction circonférentielle de la garniture de poils (26), de manière spiralée par rapport à l'axe longitudinal du noyau en fil (LD), ou, dans la direction longitudinale de la garniture de poils (26), longitudinalement, en particulier parallèlement, par rapport à l'axe longitudinal du noyau en fil (LD) et qui comprennent chacun(e) au moins une rangée de poils (17, 17') constituée d'une pluralité de poils adjacents (1a, 1c) qui ont chacun une pointe de poils de configuration identique, ou sont formés par une telle rangée de poils (17, 17'), et qui, dans la direction circonférentielle et/ou dans la direction longitudinale de la garniture de poils, sont chacun(e) disposés adjacents à une région ou un secteur ou une zone (101) qui comprend une pluralité de poils (1b) ayant chacun une pointe de poils configurée différemment.
  5. La brosse à mascara selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la garniture de poils (26) comporte une pluralité de régions, de secteurs ou de zones, qui sont alignés de manière à s'étendre dans la direction circonférentielle de la garniture de poils (26) transversalement, en particulier perpendiculairement, par rapport à l'axe longitudinal du noyau en fil (LD) ou, dans la direction circonférentielle de la garniture de poils (26), de manière spiralée par rapport à l'axe longitudinal du noyau en fil (LD), ou, dans la direction longitudinale de la garniture de poils (26), longitudinalement, en particulier parallèlement, par rapport à l'axe longitudinal du noyau en fil (LD) et qui comprennent chacun(e) au moins une rangée de poils constituée d'une pluralité de poils adjacents (1) ayant chacun une pointe de poils configurée différemment.
  6. La brosse à mascara (18) selon la revendication 4 ou 5, caractérisée en ce que la pluralité de régions, de secteurs ou de zones (100, 101, 102) couvrent, dans la direction circonférentielle, transversalement ou longitudinalement par rapport à l'axe longitudinal du noyau en fil (LD), une fois la circonférence ou une région partielle de la circonférence de la garniture de poils (26).
  7. La brosse à mascara (18) selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la garniture de poils (26) est constituée de poils (1a, 1c, 1d, 1e, 1f) ou de filaments (1') avec une partie pointue en forme de cale et d'autres poils (1b) ou filaments (1') sans partie pointue en forme de cale, la garniture de poils (26) étant de préférence conçue de telle sorte que les poils (1a, 1c, 1d, 1e, 1f) ou les filaments (1') avec une partie pointue en forme de cale forment un ou plusieurs secteur(s) (100, 102) de la garniture de poils (26) et les autres poils (1b) ou filaments (1') forment un ou plusieurs d'autres secteur(s) (101), le ou les secteurs (100, 102) et le ou les autres secteurs (101) se succédant de préférence en alternance dans la direction circonférentielle.
  8. La brosse à mascara (18) selon la revendication 7, caractérisée en ce que les poils (1a, 1c, 1d, 1e, 1f) ou les filaments (1') avec une partie pointue en forme de cale sont disposés dans la garniture de poils (26) - qui par ailleurs est constituée d'autres poils (1b) ou filaments (1') - de manière à former une trajectoire s'étendant en forme de spirale sur la surface enveloppante de la circonférence de la garniture de poils (26).
  9. La brosse à mascara (18) selon l'une des revendications 6 à 8, caractérisée en ce que les autres poils (1b) ou filaments (1') sont constitués du même matériau que les poils (1a, 1c, 1d, 1e, 1f) ou filaments (1') avec une partie pointue en forme de cale.
  10. La brosse à mascara (18) selon la revendication 8 ou 9, caractérisée en ce qu'en négligeant leur angle de cale, les surfaces de burin (4a) des poils (1a, 1c, 1d, 1e, 1f) ou des filaments (1') avec une partie pointue en forme de cale sont alignés de manière à s'étendre perpendiculairement par rapport à l'axe longitudinal imaginaire de la trajectoire en forme de spirale.
  11. La brosse à mascara (18) selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'une région ou une zone ou un secteur couvre une distance angulaire qui représente 1/8 à 1/64 de la circonférence de 360° ou du cercle enveloppant de 360° de la garniture des poils.
  12. La brosse à mascara (18) selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que respectivement une région ou un secteur ou une zone dans laquelle/lequel les surfaces de coupe (4) de tous les poils sont alignées en direction de la pointe de la brosse (15) et une région ou un secteur ou une zone dans laquelle/lequel les surfaces de coupe (4) de tous les poils sont alignés en direction de l'extrémité de la brosse (16) sont conçus en alternance.
  13. La brosse à mascara selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que les filaments (1) sont des filaments (1) rainurés longitudinalement et/ou que les poils ou filaments sont tubulaires et creux à l'intérieur et rainurés continûment en direction le long de leur axe longitudinal.
  14. La brosse à mascara selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que l'angle (a) dont la surface de coupe (4) formée par la coupe oblique (3) est inclinée par rapport à l'axe longitudinal des poils (L), respecte la relation α ≤ 55° et de préférence même α ≤ 35° et idéalement α ≤ 20°, dans ce dernier cas la brosse à mascara étant de préférence poncée deux fois de suite, en deux opérations successives.
  15. La brosse à mascara selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que les coupes obliques (3) formant la cale simple sont orientées par rapport à l'axe longitudinal (LD) du noyau en fil de sorte que les coupes obliques soient visibles en regardant le long de l'axe longitudinal.
EP15750010.9A 2014-07-31 2015-07-31 Applicateur à âme en fil métallique comprenant des poils à fibres creuses chanfreinés Active EP3174433B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

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DE202014103567.2U DE202014103567U1 (de) 2014-07-31 2014-07-31 Applikator mit Borsten aus partikelgefülltem Kunststoff
DE202014103564.8U DE202014103564U1 (de) 2014-07-31 2014-07-31 Drahtkernapplikator mit Mehrmaterialborsten
DE202014103565.6U DE202014103565U1 (de) 2014-07-31 2014-07-31 Drahtkernapplikator mit angeschrägten Hohlfaserborsten
PCT/EP2015/067679 WO2016016433A1 (fr) 2014-07-31 2015-07-31 Applicateur à âme en fil métallique comprenant des poils à fibres creuses chanfreinés

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EP3174433A1 EP3174433A1 (fr) 2017-06-07
EP3174433B1 true EP3174433B1 (fr) 2022-05-04

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EP15747443.8A Withdrawn EP3174432A1 (fr) 2014-07-31 2015-07-31 Applicateur comprenant des poils composés d'une matière plastique remplie de particules
EP15750010.9A Active EP3174433B1 (fr) 2014-07-31 2015-07-31 Applicateur à âme en fil métallique comprenant des poils à fibres creuses chanfreinés
EP15750011.7A Active EP3174434B1 (fr) 2014-07-31 2015-07-31 Applicateur à âme en fil métallique comprenant des poils à plusieurs matériaux

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EP3516985A1 (fr) 2018-01-30 2019-07-31 GEKA GmbH Brosse cosmétique et de soins de santé améliorée
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WO2012137134A1 (fr) 2011-04-06 2012-10-11 L'oreal Brosse, et conditionnement et dispositif applicateur comportant une telle brosse
DE102012018466A1 (de) 2012-09-19 2014-03-20 Rusi Cosmetic Gmbh & Co. Kg Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Applikators für kosmetische Produkte
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BR112017001244A2 (pt) 2019-05-14
US20200196743A1 (en) 2020-06-25
WO2016016433A1 (fr) 2016-02-04
WO2016016436A1 (fr) 2016-02-04
BR112017001129A2 (pt) 2017-11-14
US11547202B2 (en) 2023-01-10
US20170231377A1 (en) 2017-08-17
BR112017001131A2 (pt) 2017-11-14
US20170311706A1 (en) 2017-11-02
US10499725B2 (en) 2019-12-10
EP3174434A1 (fr) 2017-06-07
EP3174434B1 (fr) 2022-01-05
US10610007B2 (en) 2020-04-07
EP3174433A1 (fr) 2017-06-07
WO2016016440A1 (fr) 2016-02-04
US20170215565A1 (en) 2017-08-03
EP3174432A1 (fr) 2017-06-07

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