EP3166689A1 - Agents cosmétiques à teneur en isoparafine - Google Patents

Agents cosmétiques à teneur en isoparafine

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Publication number
EP3166689A1
EP3166689A1 EP15730517.8A EP15730517A EP3166689A1 EP 3166689 A1 EP3166689 A1 EP 3166689A1 EP 15730517 A EP15730517 A EP 15730517A EP 3166689 A1 EP3166689 A1 EP 3166689A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
weight
cosmetic
oil
acid
ester oil
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP15730517.8A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Jens Delowsky
Thomas Hippe
Edith Von Aspern
Bernd Richters
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from DE102014213136.7A external-priority patent/DE102014213136A1/de
Priority claimed from DE102014224453.6A external-priority patent/DE102014224453A1/de
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP3166689A1 publication Critical patent/EP3166689A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/002—Preparations for repairing the hair, e.g. hair cure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/004—Preparations used to protect coloured hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/34—Free of silicones

Definitions

  • the invention relates to isoparaffin-containing cosmetic compositions which are preferably free of silicones and preferably in the form of a hair oil and their use for the care of keratinic fibers.
  • the strains straining strains include, for example, the coloring of the hair and its deformation, for example by a perm.
  • the organosilicon compounds in particular the silicones such as trisiloxanes, which are distinguished by nourishing properties.
  • the disadvantages of these silicones are the reduced penetration of active ingredients and auxiliaries into the hair due to wetting of the hair surface and the hair styling being hampered by the wetting of the hair surface. The provision of silicone-poor or silicone-free care products is therefore a relevant task in the field of hair cosmetics.
  • ester oils in hair conditioning agents is described in international patent application WO 2010/063565 A1 (Henkel).
  • Hair care products containing at least one ester oil and at least one isoparaffin from the group of isodecane, isoundecane, isododecane, isotridecane and isotetradecane are known from EP 2 623 088 A2 (Henkel).
  • mixtures of ester oils and polymeric quaternary ammonium compounds are described, as well as combinations of both cosmetic agents.
  • Object of the present invention is to provide cosmetic compositions that make the concomitant use of silicon-organic compounds, especially silicones redundant and can dispense with their use and still maintain the performance of the silicone-containing formulations. The weighting and greasing of the treated hair, which frequently occur with silicones, should be avoided.
  • a cosmetic agent comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier a) at least one isoparaffin from the group isodecane, isoundecane, isododecane, isotridecane and isotetradecane,
  • ester oil from the group of the tri-fatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,
  • cosmetic agents are obtainable which do not lead to any weighting or re-greasing of the hairs treated with them and, moreover, good combability and ensure a shine of the hair.
  • cosmetic products in particular hair care products are available which show excellent care effect and in particular cause good gloss properties, an improved appearance and preferably an improved regeneration of the keratinic fibers.
  • the cosmetic agents contain at least one isoparaffin from the group isodecane, isoundecane, isododecane, isotridecane and isotetradecane. It is possible to use individual isoparaffins or mixtures of two or more of said isoparaffins. These isoparaffins are distinguished from the n-paraffins with the same number of carbon atoms when used in the cosmetic products by improved olfactory properties. Compared to the n-paraffins with the same number of carbon atoms and compared to the isoparaffins with lower or higher number of carbon atoms in combination with the ester oils also surprisingly improved cosmetic, especially hair care effect is achieved.
  • isoparaffins from the group isoundecane, isododecane and isotridecane are preferred according to the invention.
  • Particularly advantageous effects in combination with the oil bodies show inventive cosmetic compositions containing as isoparaffin a mixture of isoundecane, isododecane and Isotridecan.
  • cosmetic agents according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain as isoparaffin a mixture of isoundecane, isododecane and isotridecane, in particular a mixture of isododecane and isotridecane.
  • the proportion by weight of isoundecan, isodecane and isotridecan in the total weight of all isoparaffins used in the cosmetic agent is preferably more than 62% by weight, preferably more than 72% by weight, more preferably more than 82% by weight and in particular more than 92 wt .-%. It is particularly preferred that the weight fraction of the isodecane and isotridecane in the total weight of all isoparaffins used in the cosmetic agent more than 60 wt .-%, preferably more than 70 wt .-%, more preferably more than 80 wt .-% and in particular more is 90% by weight.
  • the density at 15 ° C. (DIN 51 757 P.4; ASTM D 4052) of preferred isoparaffine mixtures is preferably 700 to 820 kg / m 3 , preferably 720 to 800 kg / m 3 and in particular 740 to 780 kg / m 3 .
  • Preferred isoparaffine mixtures are characterized by a boiling range (DIN ES ISO 3405, ASTM D 86) between 195 ° C and 250 ° C, preferably between 200 ° C and 245 ° C and in particular between 205 ° and 240 ° C.
  • a particularly preferred isoparaffine mixture according to the invention is commercially available under the name Pionier® 2094 (H & R Group).
  • Particularly preferred is the at least one isoparaffin a) isododecane.
  • the at least one ester oil b) is selected from the group of trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol.
  • the at least one ester oil b) is selected from trifatty acid esters of saturated linear and / or branched Ce-i2-carboxylic acids with glycerol.
  • Particularly preferred is the use of linear Ce-12 carboxylic acids, in particular Cs-io carboxylic acids.
  • the at least one ester oil b) a mixture of tri-fatty acid esters of caprylic acid and capric acid with glycerol, preferably in a weight ratio of Caprylklaretricglycerids to Caprinklaretriglycerid from 3: 1 to 1: 1.
  • the at least one ester oil c) is different from the at least one ester oil b).
  • the ester oil c) can not be an ester oil which is already present in component b).
  • Ester oils c) are defined as follows: Ester oils c) are understood as meaning the esters of Ce - C30 fatty acids with C2 - C30 fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, Palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic, elaeostearic, arachidic, gadoleic, behenic and erucic acids and their technical mixtures.
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behe- nylalkohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures.
  • isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
  • isononanoic acid C16 18-alkyl ester Cetiol ® SN
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft ® 24
  • stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol ® 868
  • cetyl oleate glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ® LC)
  • n-butyl stearate oleyl erucate
  • isopropyl palmitate IPP Rilanit ®
  • oleyl Oleate Cetiol ®
  • hexyl laurate Cetiol ® A
  • di-n-butyl adipate Cetiol ® B
  • ester oils may also be alkoxylated with ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide.
  • the alkoxylation can be found both on the fatty alcohol part and on the fatty acid part and on both parts of the ester oils.
  • R 1 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms,
  • AO is ethylene oxide, propylene oxide or butylene oxide
  • X is a number between 1 and 200, preferably 1 and 100, more preferably between 1 and 50, most preferably between 1 and 20, most preferably between 1 and 10 and most preferably between 1 and 5,
  • R 2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched cyclic saturated cyclic unsaturated alkyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, phenyl or benzyl radical having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • fatty acid moieties used as radical R1 in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid , Gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • fatty alcohol moieties as radical R2 in the ester oils are benzyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, Caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof.
  • a particularly preferred according to the invention is Esteröl example, under the INCI - available name PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate, for example the commercial product Crodamol STS ®.
  • ester oils are to be understood as meaning:
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate
  • diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, and
  • Fatty acid partial glycerides ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides.
  • the partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-II),
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are each independently hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents a Acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen.
  • the sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25.
  • R 1 is an acyl radical and R 2 and R 3 are hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0.
  • Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic , Linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • oleic acid monoglycerides are used.
  • the at least one ester oil c) is selected from symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols.
  • the at least one ester oil c) selected from esters of carbonic acid with Ce-12-alkanols, in particular C7-9-alkanols.
  • Particularly preferred are symmetrical esters of carbonic acid with the alkanols, especially dicaprylyl carbonate (esters of carbonic acid with n-octyl alcohol).
  • component c) it is also possible to use mixtures of two or more of the abovementioned ester oils of component c). Preference is given to the presence of at least one symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic ester of the carboxylic acid with fatty alcohols.
  • ester oils c) is a major amount of symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with alcohols.
  • the at least one ester oil c) contains only symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention may contain the components a), b) and c) in any suitable amounts.
  • 0.2 to 90 wt .-% preferably 0.5 to 40 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1 to 5 wt .-% of component b) and
  • 0.2 to 90 wt .-% preferably 1 to 40 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 5 to 10 wt .-% of component c).
  • the total amount of which yields 100% by weight, the sum of components a), b) and c) is preferably 10 to 99.9% by weight, preferably 50 to 99% by weight, in particular 90 to 99.8% by weight.
  • Preferred cosmetic agents contain, based on their total weight, components a), b) and c) in proportions by weight above 90% by weight, preferably above 94% by weight and in particular above 98% by weight. In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic agents consist entirely of the components a), b) and c).
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be tailored to the respective hair quality.
  • targeted formulations for the treatment of fine, normal or thick hair can be obtained.
  • organosilicon compounds in particular silicones, such as trisiloxanes
  • Preferred embodiments of the invention are therefore characterized in that the cosmetic agent, based on its total weight, less than 5.0 wt .-%, preferably less than 2.0 wt .-%, preferably less than 0.5 wt .-% and in particular, does not contain trisiloxane; respectively.
  • the cosmetic agent based on its total weight, contains less than 5.0% by weight, preferably less than 2.0% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight and in particular no dimethicone; respectively.
  • the cosmetic agent based on its total weight, contains less than 5.0% by weight, preferably less than 2.0% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight and in particular no amodimethicone; respectively.
  • the cosmetic agent based on its total weight, contains less than 5.0% by weight, preferably less than 2.0% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight and in particular no cyclomethicone; respectively.
  • the cosmetic agent based on its total weight, contains less than 5.0% by weight, preferably less than 2.0% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight and in particular no organosilicon compounds.
  • the cosmetic agent is free of organosilicon compounds, in particular free of silicones, trisiloxanes and silicone oils.
  • composition of some preferred cosmetic agents can be found in the following tables (data in% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent, unless stated otherwise).
  • Isoparaffin 1 9.8 to 99.6 40 to 98.5 70 to 98.5 85 to 94 85 to 94
  • Isoparaffin 1 > 9.8 to 99.5 40 to 98.4 70 to 98.3 85 to 93.8 85 to 93.6
  • Vegetable oil 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.2 to 8.0 0.4 to 5.0
  • Vegetable oil 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.2 to 8.0 0.4 to 5.0
  • Isododecane 9.8 to 99.5 40 to 98.4 70 to 98.3 85 to 93.8 85 to 93.6
  • Vegetable oil 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.2 to 8.0 0.4 to 5.0
  • Vegetable oil 0.1 to 10 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.2 to 8.0 0.4 to 5.0
  • the cosmetic agent according to the invention can be used in any suitable field of application.
  • hair treatment agents in particular hair oils.
  • the cosmetic agent is particularly preferably in the form of a hair oil.
  • the hair oil is particularly preferably used as a spray oil and sprayed on the hair.
  • This can be a pump spray or spraying can be done using propellants.
  • propellants are propane, propene, n-butane, isobutane, isobutene, n-pentane, pentene, isopentane, isopentene, methane, ethane, dimethyl ether, nitrogen, air, oxygen, nitrous oxide, 1, 1, 1, 3-tetrafluoroethane, heptafluoro-n-propane, perfluoroethane, monochlorodifluoromethane, 1, 1-difluoroethane, both individually and in combination.
  • hydrophilic propellants such as carbon dioxide
  • hydrophilic propellants such as carbon dioxide
  • lipophilic propellant gas eg., Propane / butane
  • propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures of these propellants propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures of these propellants. It has been found that the use of n-butane as the only propellant gas according to the invention can be particularly preferred.
  • pressurized gas containers come vessels made of metal (aluminum, tinplate, tin), protected or non-splitterndem plastic or glass, which is coated with plastic on the outside, in question, at their selection pressure and breaking strength, corrosion resistance, easy fillability as well as aesthetic considerations, handiness, printability, etc. play a role.
  • the invention thus also relates to the use of the cosmetic agent for the care of keratinic fibers.
  • compositions according to the invention are particularly suitable for hair care.
  • a further subject of the present application is therefore a process for the treatment of keratinic fibers, characterized in that a cosmetic agent according to the invention is applied to the dried and / or towel wet keratinic fibers.
  • the hair treatment agent according to the invention is preferably used immediately before, during or after an oxidative or surfactant hair treatment.
  • an application directly followed by the oxidative or surfactant hair treatment the hair treatment agent according to the invention was previously rinsed from the hair or preferably left on the hair and the hair is preferably still wet ,
  • oxidative or surfactant hair treatment is understood within the meaning of the invention, an application which is either directly to the oxidative or surfactant hair treatment, said hair treatment agent according to the invention after rinsing the oxidative or surfactant acting on the preferably still wet, towel-dried Hair is applied, or applied to the dry or wet hair only after several hours or days.
  • the hair treatment composition according to the invention can be rinsed out after a contact time of a few seconds up to 45 minutes or completely remain on the hair.
  • the effect of the hair treatment agent according to the invention unfolds even during the oxidative or surfactant hair treatment and surprisingly persists even after intensive washing out of the hair treatment composition according to the invention.
  • Another object of the present application is the use of a cosmetic agent according to the invention for the care of keratinic fibers.
  • a cosmetic agent according to the invention is claimed
  • combing is understood according to the invention both the combability of the wet fiber, as well as the combability of the dry fiber.
  • the combing work or the force used during the combing process of a fiber collective.
  • the measurement parameters can be assessed by the skilled person or quantified by measuring devices.
  • an oxidative cosmetic agent containing at least one oxidizing agent on hair in a cosmetic carrier is defined according to the invention.
  • Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention also contain, in addition to the previously described ingredients a), b) and c), specific siloxanes.
  • a preferred subject of this application is therefore a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier a) at least one isoparaffin selected from the group isodecane, isoundecane, isododecane, isotridecane and isotetradecane,
  • ester oil from the group of the trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol, c) at least one ester oil c) different from the ester oil b),
  • the cosmetic products containing constituents d) and e) are, in addition to the above-mentioned quantitative restrictions of the ingredient a), preferably characterized in that
  • the proportion by weight of isoundecane, isododecane and isotridecan, in particular of isododecane, in the total weight of the cosmetic agent is 60 to 99% by weight, preferably 65 to 95% by weight and in particular 70 to 90% by weight;
  • the proportion by weight of the ester oil b) of the total weight of the cosmetic composition is from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight and in particular from 1 to 0 to 10% by weight;
  • Preferred cosmetic agents are characterized in that the proportion by weight of ester oil c) in the total weight of the cosmetic agent is 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 15% by weight and in particular 1 to 0% by weight. is.
  • the preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise at least one trimethylsiloxysilicate.
  • Co-hydrolysis products of tetraalkoxysilane and trimethylethoxysilane are referred to herein as "trimethylsiloxysilicate.” These products form a three-dimensional network of polysilicic acid moieties terminated with trimethylsilyl groups, which may contain a low level of ethoxy and hydroxy functions
  • Trimethylethoxysilane can be determined from the ratio of the tetraalkoxysilane units to the trimethylethoxysilane units Preferably, this ratio is 0.5 to 1.0, more preferably 0.66
  • An example of a trimethylethoxysilane having a ratio of 0.66 is Wacker-Belsil TMS 803 from Wacker-Chemie GmbH An exemplary formula for trimethylsiloxysilicate is
  • Trimethylsiloxysilicate is a water-resistant additive that can be used as a film former and fixative.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention contain trimethylsiloxysilicate within narrower ranges.
  • Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their total weight, they contain from 0.3 to 7.0% by weight, preferably from 0.4 to 5.0% by weight and in particular from 0.6 to 3.5% by weight .-% Trimethylsiloxysilicat included.
  • polyalkylsilsesquioxanes is understood here to mean compounds from the group of the polyhedral oligomeric silsesquioxanes (POSS) which are described by the empirical formula RSiOi, 5, where R is an organic substituent, this organic radical may be, for example, hydrogen, Siloxy or a cyclic or linear aliphatic or aromatic group which may additionally contain reactive functional groups such as alcohol, ester, amine, keto, olefin, ether or halide groups.
  • PES polyhedral oligomeric silsesquioxanes
  • the basic structure of POSS compounds has polyhedral Si-O backbone to which the R groups are attached Homoleptic POSS compounds containing only a single type of R groups, and heteroleptic POSS chemicals containing different R groups each are known.
  • polyalkylsilsesquioxanes are used, ie the radicals R are alkyl radicals.
  • homoleptic polyalkylsilsesquioxanes are particularly preferably used, ie only one type of alkyl radical is contained in the molecule.
  • polypropylsilsesquioxane ie the radical R in the formula RSiOi, 5 is a propyl radical, "propyl” meaning both n-propyl and isopropyl radicals.
  • Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their total weight, they contain from 0.2 to 3.0% by weight, preferably from 0.3 to 2.0% by weight and in particular from 0.4 to 1.5% by weight % Polyalkylsilsesquioxane.
  • the weight ratio of components d) and e) is 4: 1 to 1: 2, preferably 3: 1 to 1: 1.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be tailored to the respective hair quality.
  • targeted formulations for the treatment of fine, normal or thick hair can be obtained.
  • a preferred subject matter of the present application is a cosmetic agent comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, in each case based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent
  • Preferred cosmetic agents contain, based on their total weight, components a), b), c), d) and e) in proportions by weight above 90% by weight, preferably above 94% by weight and in particular above 98% by weight.
  • the cosmetic agents consist entirely of the components a), b), c), d) and e).
  • the composition of some further preferred cosmetic compositions with the components a), b), c), d) and e) can be taken from the following tables (data in% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic agent, unless stated otherwise).
  • Isododecane 60 to 99 60 to 98 65 to 95 65 to 95 70 to 90
  • Isoparaffin 1 > 60 to 99 60 to 98 65 to 95 65 to 95 70 to 90
  • Isododecane 60 to 99 60 to 98 65 to 95 65 to 95 70 to 90
  • Isododecane 60 to 99 60 to 98 65 to 95 65 to 95 70 to 90
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are distinguished by above-average care properties on keratinic fibers.
  • a further subject of this application is therefore the use of a cosmetic agent according to the invention for the care of keratinic fibers.
  • the cosmetic agent according to the invention with components a) to e) is applied to the dried and / or towel-moist keratin fibers.
  • Particular cosmetic advantages are achieved when the application of the cosmetic product takes place immediately before, during or after an oxidative or surfactant hair treatment.
  • the cosmetic composition with the components a) to e) preferably remains on the hair until the next hair wash.
  • the hair can be styled and styled after applying the cosmetic composition according to the invention by all conventional methods.
  • the application of heat in the form of a hair dryer, a towel, a drying hood or a curling iron or curler is possible.
  • it is also possible to use further compositions which help to style the hair for example hairsprays.
  • composition according to the invention with components a) to e) may, if desired, remain on the hair for up to 30 minutes after a few seconds and then be rinsed out again.
  • the cosmetic composition with components a) to e) is formulated as a spray cure and for this purpose combined with a spray device, preferably a non-Aersol spray device.
  • a spray device preferably a non-Aersol spray device.
  • the spray pattern and the spray can be effectively adjusted by the viscosity of the cosmetic product and / or the selection of spray head and spray pump of the spray device.
  • Another object of the present invention is a cosmetic product comprising a cosmetic agent according to the invention with the components a) to e) and a spray device, in particular a non-aerosol spray device for spraying the cosmetic product a).
  • compositions according to the invention with components a) to e) is effected by mixing the ingredients described above.
  • the cosmetic agent according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention with the components a) to c) or a) to e) may contain further ingredients.
  • the group of these other ingredients includes, in particular, the cosmetically active substances, auxiliaries and additives.
  • a first group of optional ingredients are the oil body forming substances.
  • examples include vegetable oils, liquid paraffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons, and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of between 12 and 36 carbon atoms and fatty alcohols: vegetable oils.
  • vegetable oils are amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, marula oil , Evening primrose oil, olive oil, orange oil, palm oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, walnut oil
  • liquid paraffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, iso
  • the compounds are available as commercial products 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ® OE) may be preferred.
  • the group of preferred fatty alcohols includes the Cs to C22 fatty alcohols, preferably the C10 to C20 fatty alcohols and in particular the C12 to C18 fatty alcohols.
  • the proportion by weight of the fatty alcohol in the total weight of preferred cosmetic agents is from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 8.0% by weight and in particular from 0.4 to 5.0% by weight.
  • the total amount of the ingredients of the cosmetic products is 100 wt .-%.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention may contain other ingredients.
  • the group of these other ingredients includes, in particular, the cosmetically active substances, auxiliaries and additives.
  • the agent may contain, for example, at least one protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its derivatives.
  • Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins).
  • the term protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids.
  • the molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.
  • the agent according to the invention may further comprise at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives.
  • vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
  • panthenol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed using the composition of the present invention.
  • compositions according to the invention may further contain at least one plant extract, but also mono- or oligosaccharides and / or lipids.
  • Particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are preferably formulated as low-water application mixtures.
  • the water content of preferred cosmetic compositions based on their total weight, less than 10 wt .-%, preferably less than 5.0 wt .-%, more preferably less than 1, 0 wt .-% and in particular less than 0.1 wt .-%, wherein in very particularly preferred cosmetic agents no water is included.
  • compositions, uses, and methods of the invention are characterized by the following items:
  • Cosmetic composition containing in a cosmetically acceptable carrier a) at least one isoparaffin selected from the group of isodecane, isoundecane, isododecane, isotridecane and isotetradecane,
  • ester oil from the group of the tri-fatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,
  • composition according to item 1 characterized in that the at least one isoparaffin a) is isododecane.
  • Cosmetic composition according to items 1 or 2 characterized in that the at least one ester oil b) is selected from trifatty acid esters of saturated linear and / or branched Ce-i 2-carboxylic acids and glycerol.
  • Cosmetic composition according to item 3 characterized in that the at least one ester oil b) is a mixture of tri-fatty acid esters of caprylic acid and capric acid with glycerol.
  • Cosmetic agent according to one of the items 1 to 4, characterized in that the at least one ester oil c) is selected from symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols.
  • Cosmetic composition according to item 5 characterized in that the at least one ester oil c) is selected from esters of carbonic acid with Ce-i 2-alkanols, especially n-octanol.
  • Cosmetic agent according to one of the items 1 to 6 characterized in that, based on the total amount of components a), b) and c), which gives 100% by weight,
  • Cosmetic composition according to item 10 characterized in that the proportion by weight of isoundecane, isododecane and isotridecan, in particular of isododecane, on Total weight of the cosmetic agent 60 to 99 wt .-%, preferably 65 to 95 wt .-% and in particular 70 to 90 wt .-% is.
  • Cosmetic agent according to items 10 to 12 characterized in that the at least one ester oil b) is selected from triflic acid esters of saturated linear and / or branched Ce-i 2-carboxylic acids and glycerol.
  • Cosmetic composition according to item 13 characterized in that the at least one ester oil b) is a mixture of tri-fatty acid esters of caprylic acid and capric acid with glycerol.
  • Cosmetic agent according to item 13 characterized in that the proportion by weight of the ester oil b) in the total weight of the cosmetic agent 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 15 wt .-% and in particular 1, 0 to 10 wt. -% is.
  • Cosmetic composition according to item 16 characterized in that the at least one ester oil c) is selected from esters of carbonic acid with C6-i 2-alkanols, in particular with n-octanol.
  • Cosmetic agent according to one of the items 10 to 22, characterized in that the proportion by weight of the components a), b), c), d) and e) more than 90 wt .-%, preferably more than 94 wt .-% and in particular more than 98% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • Cosmetic composition according to any one of items 10 to 23 in the form of a spray cure.
  • Cosmetic product comprising
  • a spraying device in particular a non-aerosol spraying device, for spraying the cosmetic product a).
  • a cosmetic agent according to any one of items 1 to 23 for the care of keratinic fibers.
  • Process for the treatment of keratinic fibers characterized in that a cosmetic agent according to one of the items 1 to 23 is applied to the dried and / or towel-moist keratin fibers.
  • Method according to item 28 characterized in that the cosmetic agent is applied immediately before, during or after an oxidative or surfactant hair treatment. Examples
  • Caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride 1, 0
  • Purolan ® IDD be used, for example, which is at least 98 wt .-% composed of Ci2 hydrocarbons.
  • caprylic / capric acid triglyceride a product available under the INCI name Caprylic / Capric triglycerides can be used.
  • Cetiol ® CC can be used, which is di-n-octyl carbonate.
  • Perfume 956046 Vivida Plus II can be used as a perfume.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des agents cosmétiques à teneur en isoparafine qui sont de préférence exempts de silicones et se présentent de préférence sous forme d'une huile capillaire. L'invention concerne également leur utilisation pour le soin de fibres kératiniques.
EP15730517.8A 2014-07-07 2015-06-23 Agents cosmétiques à teneur en isoparafine Withdrawn EP3166689A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102014213136.7A DE102014213136A1 (de) 2014-07-07 2014-07-07 Isoparaffin-haltiges kosmetisches Mittel
DE102014224453.6A DE102014224453A1 (de) 2014-11-28 2014-11-28 Isoparaffin-haltiges kosmetisches Mittel
PCT/EP2015/064116 WO2016005184A1 (fr) 2014-07-07 2015-06-23 Agents cosmétiques à teneur en isoparafine

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3166689A1 true EP3166689A1 (fr) 2017-05-17

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EP15730517.8A Withdrawn EP3166689A1 (fr) 2014-07-07 2015-06-23 Agents cosmétiques à teneur en isoparafine

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US (1) US20170112738A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP3166689A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2016005184A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2018065277A1 (fr) * 2016-10-06 2018-04-12 Unilever Plc Procédé de traitement des cheveux
JP7077864B2 (ja) * 2018-08-21 2022-05-31 日油株式会社 ミスト用化粧料
DE102018221937A1 (de) * 2018-12-17 2020-06-18 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Haaröle zum konditionieren von keratinfasern
DE102018221938A1 (de) * 2018-12-17 2020-06-18 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Cosmetic agents for conditioning keratin fibres
WO2021128055A1 (fr) * 2019-12-25 2021-07-01 L'oreal Composition pour le conditionnement de fibres de kératine
KR20230003765A (ko) * 2021-06-30 2023-01-06 유씨엘 주식회사 실리콘-프리의 모발 개선용 화장료 조성물

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2007269726A (ja) * 2006-03-31 2007-10-18 Kose Corp ヘアオイル
DE102011087972A1 (de) * 2011-12-08 2013-06-13 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Haarpflegemittel
EP2623088A3 (fr) * 2011-12-08 2016-06-15 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Produit de soin pour cheveux
DE102011087976A1 (de) * 2011-12-08 2012-08-23 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Haarpflegemittel
DE102013223793A1 (de) * 2013-11-21 2014-04-10 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verwendung kosmetischer Zusammensetzungen für die Inaktivierung und/oder Eliminierung von Hautmilben

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WO2016005184A1 (fr) 2016-01-14

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