WO2015086004A1 - Composition cosmétique renfermant une combinaison de protéolipides et de céramides - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique renfermant une combinaison de protéolipides et de céramides Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2015086004A1
WO2015086004A1 PCT/DE2014/200605 DE2014200605W WO2015086004A1 WO 2015086004 A1 WO2015086004 A1 WO 2015086004A1 DE 2014200605 W DE2014200605 W DE 2014200605W WO 2015086004 A1 WO2015086004 A1 WO 2015086004A1
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Prior art keywords
cosmetic composition
ceramide
total amount
weight
composition according
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PCT/DE2014/200605
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche
Volker Scheunemann
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2015086004A1 publication Critical patent/WO2015086004A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/368—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof with carboxyl groups directly bound to carbon atoms of aromatic rings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42—Amides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/463—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/65—Collagen; Gelatin; Keratin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/68—Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • Cosmetic composition containing a combination of proteolipids and ceramides :
  • the present invention relates to the technical field of hair cleansing and hair care.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising at least one ceramide in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 3.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, of at least one particular proteolipid in a total amount of from 0.00001 to 10 Wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and at least one surfactant selected from the group of (i) anionic surfactants; (ii) nonionic surfactants; (iii) cationic surfactants; (iv) amphoteric surfactants; as well as their mixtures.
  • Composition improved combability and disentanglement, and improved grip and shine occur.
  • Cosmetic compositions in the form of hair treatment agents must have a good cleaning action to reliably remove contaminants from the hair and scalp. Furthermore, the hair treatment compositions, especially the ingredients contained therein, should not cause unwanted deposits on the hair, as this hair properties, such as combability and the handle, are adversely affected.
  • Hair care products in the form of hair cleansers additionally added care products and conditioners with the longest possible effect, in order to avoid excessive stress on the hair.
  • care products and conditioners affect the natural structure and properties of the hair.
  • the wet and dry combability of the hair can be optimized or the hair can be protected from increased split ends.
  • the combability and entanglement as well as the hair grip and the gloss should be improved after use.
  • Another object of the present invention was to provide cosmetic compositions which have high stability even over long periods of storage.
  • Cosmetic compositions according to the invention possible. Finally, the addition of the combination of ceramides and special proteolipids does not lead to unfavorable interactions with other ingredients, so that the cosmetic compositions of the invention have a high storage stability.
  • the present invention thus relates to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising:
  • Y is -H or -OH
  • Solvents such as fats.
  • Oligopeptides is preferably at least 3 and at most 50 amino acids.
  • composition refers in the present case - unless otherwise stated - to the
  • the at least one ceramide (a) may be present in a total amount of from 0.0002 to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 0.0005 to 1.0% by weight, preferably from 0.0008 to 0.5% by weight .-%, more preferably from 0.002 to 0.1 wt .-%, even more preferably from 0.004 to 0.05 wt .-%, in particular from 0.006 to 0.02 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition to be included.
  • the use of the ceramide in the above amounts results in a positive influence on hair properties, such as combability, entanglement, hand and shine.
  • the use of the abovementioned amounts of ceramide avoids a negative influence on further ingredients, the cleaning and / or care performance and the stability of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.
  • Proteolipids of the formula (I) which fulfill the abovementioned conditions lead, in combination with at least one ceramide, in particular at least one particular ceramide, to a particularly good improvement in the cleaning and care performance of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention.
  • the cosmetic composition contains at least one proteolipid of the formula (Ia)
  • X- is selected from CI “ , Br, Vi S0 4 2" , 7 3 P0 4 3 " , and
  • Hy is an oligopeptide residue of keratin hydrolyzate
  • Composition of at least one proteolipid of the formula (Ib) is selected from CI “ , Br, Vi S0 4 2" , 7 3 P0 4 3 " , and
  • X is selected from CI “ , Br, Vi S0 4 2" , 7 3 P0 4 3 " ,
  • n stands for numbers from 8 to 22
  • n is the number of amino acids in the keratin hydrolyzate, preferably for numbers from 3 to 12,
  • R 3 is the side chains of the amino acids in the keratin hydrolyzate, where R 3 may be different in each repeating unit,
  • m is the number 9 (corresponding to a decyl radical attached to the N atom), 1 1 (dodecyl radical, lauryl radical), 13 (tetraadecyl radical, myristyl radical), 15 (hexadecyl radical, palmityl radical) and preferably represents 17 (octadecyl radical, stearyl radical).
  • Corresponding compounds are commercially available, for example, under the INCI name "Steardimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin".
  • compounds of the formula (Ic) in which the long-chain radical at the N atom has been obtained from natural fats via their fatty acid or fatty alcohol mixtures.
  • a preferred example according to the invention is coconut fat, which is rich in lauric acid, so that the commercially available and preferably usable compound with the INCI name "Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin” is rich in compounds of the formula (Ic) in which m is the number 1 1 stands.
  • proteolipids (b) of the formulas (Ia) and / or (Ib) and / or (Ic) results, in combination with the abovementioned ceramides, a significant improvement in the properties of the hair, such as combability, disentanglement Handle and shine.
  • these proteolipids in combination with the abovementioned ceramides can be incorporated into formulations in an excellent manner and thus enable a simple and inexpensive preparation of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention.
  • the use of these special proteolipids in combination with the above ceramides does not lead to a reduced storage stability of the cosmetic compositions.
  • the cosmetic composition contains the at least one proteolipid (b) of the formula (I) in a total amount of from 0.0005 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.003 to 6.0% by weight. preferably from 0.005 to 5.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.008 to 4.5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.02 to 3.0% by weight, especially from 0.05 to 2, 0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the use of the at least one specific proteolipid in the abovementioned amounts results in a positive influence in combination with the at least one ceramide, in particular the at least one specific ceramide
  • the care performance of the cosmetic compositions of the invention can be further improved by the use of additional conditioning ingredients.
  • the anionic surfactant is preferably selected from the group of
  • alkyl sulfates having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain, especially sodium lauryl sulfate;
  • alkyl ether sulfates having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and 1 to 14 oxyethyl groups, especially sodium lauryl ether sulfate;
  • alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and 0 to 10 oxyethyl groups; such as
  • compositions are achieved when the anionic surfactant is selected from the group of (i) alkyl ether sulfates having 8 to 30 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and 1 to 14
  • Oxyethyl groups especially sodium lauryl ether sulfate; (ii) alkyl sulfates of 8 to 30
  • Carbon atoms in the alkyl chain especially sodium lauryl sulfate; and (iii) their
  • Proteolipid (b) no unfavorable interactions with other ingredients, so that the cosmetic compositions of the invention have a high care performance and a long shelf life.
  • the anionic surfactant in a total amount of 0.05 to 45 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 25 wt .-%, more preferably from 1, 0 to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 2.0 to 15 wt .-%, based on the
  • nonionic surfactant is selected from the group of
  • alkoxylated carboxylic acid alkyl esters having 6 to 22 carbon atoms in the acyl group, 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 14 oxyethyl groups;
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention have a high care performance and a high storage stability.
  • radicals R 11 and R 14 are an acyl radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 26, preferably 12 to 20, more preferably 14 to 18,
  • A is a physiologically acceptable anion
  • A is a physiologically acceptable anion; such as
  • Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of carboxylic acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of carboxylic acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of carboxylic acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines.
  • Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ®, ® and Dehyquart® Armocare® ®.
  • the cationic surfactant is used in a total amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.03 to 8.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 6.0% by weight. %, more preferably from 0.08 to 4.5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.1 to 3.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition is used.
  • the cationic surfactant is a particularly good
  • amphoteric surfactant may be present in a total amount of from 0.2 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1.0 to 15% by weight. %, more preferably from 1, 5 to 12 wt .-%, in particular from 2.0 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition is used.
  • amphoteric surfactant is a particularly good cleaning performance of the cosmetic compositions of the invention
  • a particularly high cleaning performance and a particularly high foaming power is obtained according to the invention if the at least one surfactant (c) is used in a total amount of from 0.2 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 45% by weight, preferably from 0 , 8 to 40 wt .-%, more preferably from 1, 0 to 35 wt .-%, even more preferably from 3.0 to 30 wt .-%, in particular from 5.0 to 25 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition is included.
  • Weight ratio of the total amount of (b) to the total amount of (c) from 1: 5 to 1: 400, preferably from 1:10 to 1: 350, preferably from 1:15 to 1: 300, more preferably from 1:20 to 1: 250, more preferably from 1:25 to 1: 200, especially from 1:30 to 1: 180.
  • a weight ratio of the total amount of (a) to the total amount of (b) to the total amount of (c) is also possible for a weight ratio of the total amount of (a) to the total amount of (b) to the total amount of (c) to be from 1: 1: 500 to 1: 200: 4,500, preferably from 1 : 2: 700 to 1: 150: 4,000, preferably from 1: 3: 900 to 1: 100: 3,500, more preferably from 1: 4: 1 .000 to 1: 90: 3,000, even more preferably from 1: 5: 1 .200 to 1: 80: 2,500, especially from 1: 7: 1 .500 to 1: 70: 2,300.
  • the use of these weight ratios results firstly in an excellent cleaning performance and secondly in an improvement in the combability, the entangleability, the handle and the gloss. Furthermore, a negative mutual influence of the ingredients at
  • Hy is an oligopeptide residue of keratin hydrolyzate
  • X " is selected from CI,” Br 1/2 S0 4 2 ', 7 3 P0 4 3 ", and
  • Hy is an oligopeptide residue of keratin hydrolyzate
  • Disodium cocoamphodiacetate in a total amount of 2 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition,
  • X " is selected from CI,” Br 1/2 S0 4 2 ', 7 3 P0 4 3 ", and
  • Hy is an oligopeptide residue of keratin hydrolyzate, in a total amount of from 0.05 to 2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and
  • Disodium cocoamphodiacetate and / or PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate in a total amount of from 2 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • X is selected from CI,” Br 1/2 SCU 2 ", 7 3 PCU 3", and
  • Hy is an oligopeptide residue of keratin hydrolyzate
  • X is selected from Cl ", Br, 1/2 S0 4 2 - 7 3 4 3 ⁇ 0"
  • n stands for numbers from 8 to 22
  • n for the number of amino acids in the keratin hydrolyzate, preferably for numbers
  • R 3 is the side chains of the amino acids in the keratin hydrolyzate, where R 3 may be different in each repeating unit,
  • Disodium cocoamphodiacetate and / or PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate in a total amount of from 2 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • n stands for numbers from 8 to 22
  • n is the number of amino acids in the keratin hydrolyzate, preferably for numbers from 3 to 12,
  • R 3 is the side chains of the amino acids in the keratin hydrolyzate, where R 3 may be different in each repeating unit,
  • Disodium cocoamphodiacetate in a total amount of 2 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition,
  • the abovementioned six particularly preferred embodiments which contain a combination of at least one specific ceramide (a), at least one extremely special proteolipid (b) and specific surfactants (c) in specific amounts and weight ratios lead to an excellent cleaning and / or care performance.
  • the combability, the entangleability, the handle and the gloss are significantly improved.
  • these combinations do not lead to a reduction in the storage stability of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention.
  • these special combinations also have no unfavorable interactions with other ingredients and / or care agents, so that the nourishing effect can be additionally improved by the addition of other conditioning ingredients.
  • compositions contain a number of other active ingredients and ingredients. Preference is given to adding further active ingredients to the cosmetic compositions which have additional cosmetic care properties in order to condition the hair during the treatment
  • Composition further contains at least one hair and / or skin conditioning agent, wherein the active ingredient is selected from the group of oil components, cationic polymers, plant extracts and / or humectants.
  • Oil components suitable according to the invention may be selected from mineral, natural or synthetic oil components such as petrolatum, paraffins, silicones, alcohols, fatty acid esters, natural oils of plant and animal origin and mixtures thereof, and are used in a total amount of 0.005 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.2 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition used.
  • mineral, natural or synthetic oil components such as petrolatum, paraffins, silicones, alcohols, fatty acid esters, natural oils of plant and animal origin and mixtures thereof, and are used in a total amount of 0.005 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.2 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition used
  • silicones is understood by the person skilled in the art to mean various structures of organosilicon compounds which are present in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 2% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition may be included.
  • the silicones may preferably be selected from at least one member of the group of organosilicon compounds which is formed from:
  • polyalkyl siloxanes polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
  • grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone-containing organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone to which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;
  • grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted thereto non-silicone-containing organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone onto which at least one organic macromer not containing silicone has been grafted in the chain, and optionally at least at one of its ends , such as the commercial product Abil B 8832 from Degussa marketed under the INCI name Bis-PEG / PPG-20/20 dimethicone;
  • the conditioning agent is a
  • conditioning silicone having a viscosity of from 20,000 to 120,000 mPa ⁇ s, preferably from 40,000 to 80,000 mPa ⁇ s.
  • the conditioning silicone is particularly preferably selected from dimethicones, amodimethicones or dimethiconols.
  • fatty alcohols it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having C 6 -C 30, preferably C 10 -C 22 and very particularly preferably C 12 -C 22, carbon atoms.
  • Decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol can be used for the purposes of the invention, for example.
  • the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids having C6-C30 carbon atoms, which usually can be assumed to be derived from the esters of the fatty acids by reduction.
  • fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols resulting fatty acid esters, and thus a mixture of
  • wool wax alcohols such as are commercially available under the names Corona®, White Swan®, Coronet® or Fluilan®, can also be used.
  • Fatty alcohols suitable according to the invention are present in the cosmetic compositions in a total amount of from 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight the cosmetic composition used.
  • Isoparaffins carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax and
  • Microsell be used from PE or PP.
  • Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of C 6 -C 30 -fatty acids with C 2 -C 30 -fatty alcohols.
  • the monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol,
  • Fatty acid partial glycerides in particular monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides.
  • the partial glycerides preferably have the formula (I I)
  • Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, Linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • oleic acid monoglycerides are used.
  • Natural oils include, for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil,
  • avocado oil apricot kernel oil, rose hip kernel oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, almond oil, olive oil, peach kernel oil, shea butter, sunflower oil and grapeseed oil are particularly preferred.
  • Cationic polymers can likewise be used according to the invention as conditioning components.
  • suitable cationic polymers are polymers which have "temporarily cationic” or “permanently cationic” groups in the main and / or side chain.
  • “permanently cationic” refers to those polymers which have a cationic group independently of the pH of the agent These are generally polymers which contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
  • R 7 -H or -CH 3
  • p is a natural number
  • X- is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as
  • Copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (I I I) and nonionic monomer units are particularly preferred cationic polymers. Within the scope of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:
  • hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives for example those under the trade name
  • Vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
  • Polyquaternium-27 known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.
  • extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
  • alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used.
  • the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and
  • compositions according to the invention are suitable as cosmetically.
  • Compositions may be in the form of hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, hair dye shampoos, or combinations thereof.
  • inventive cosmetic may be in the form of hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, hair dye shampoos, or combinations thereof.
  • compositions both as a leave-on, so as on the hair until the next hair wash remaining products, as well as rinse-off, so a few seconds to a few hours after the application again rinsed products, be provided.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention have excellent fragrance
  • the cosmetic compositions for stabilization may contain an inorganic thickener.
  • Inorganic thickeners can be used in the context of the present invention phyllosilicates (polymeric, crystalline sodium disilicates). Particularly stable foams having excellent foaming properties are obtained when magnesium aluminum silicates from the group of bentonites, in particular smectites, such as
  • Montmorillonite or hectorite which may optionally also be suitably modified.
  • synthetic phyllosilicates such as that sold by the company Süd Chemie under the trade name Optigel
  • Magnesium layer silicate can be used.
  • the effect of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be increased by emulsifiers.
  • emulsifiers are, for example
  • alkyl (oligo) glucosides for example, the commercially available product ® Montanov 68,
  • Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and of animal tissue
  • zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol.
  • suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
  • glucose phospholipids e.g. as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from e.g. Egg yolk or plant seeds (e.g., soybeans) are understood.
  • Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ® PGPH),
  • Linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts,
  • the ethoxylated glyceryl oleates and glyceryl cocoates are preferred, and PEG-7 is particularly preferred Glyceryl Cocoate, as it is commercially available for example under the name Tegosoft ® GC or Cetiol ® HE.
  • the emulsifiers are preferably used in a total amount of from 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 8 to 18 can be used.
  • Nonionic emulsifiers having an H LB value of 10 to 15 may be preferred according to the invention.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may additionally contain protein hydrolysates and / or derivatives thereof for further support of their skin and hair-care action.
  • Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures which are obtained by acid, basic or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins).
  • protein hydrolysates of plant and animal origin can be used.
  • Cationized protein hydrolysates can be used according to the invention, the underlying protein hydrolyzate being derived from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, maize, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or from biotechnology
  • Protein hydrolysates can stem.
  • the protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or by a combination of the two types of hydrolysis.
  • the hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preferred are such cationic
  • Protein hydrolysates the protein content of which has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5,000 daltons. Furthermore, under cationic
  • Quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out by means of quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides.
  • the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized.
  • cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives those mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1 101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially available products: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein,
  • Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxyproypltrimonium
  • the protein hydrolysates and their derivatives are preferably used in a total amount of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • a total amount of 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition is very particularly preferred.
  • vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
  • vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, Vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • the vitamin A component is preferably used in a total amount of 0.05 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a.
  • Vitamin B3 Under this designation are often the compounds nicotinic acid and
  • Nicotinic acid amide (niacinamide).
  • Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in a total amount of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the
  • Total weight of the cosmetic composition is used.
  • panthenol • Vitamin Bs (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Within this group the panthenol is preferred. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention
  • panthenol in particular the esters and ethers of panthenol as well as cationically derivatized panthenols.
  • Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and the cationic disclosed in WO 92/13829 A1
  • Panthenol The said compounds of the vitamin Bs type are preferably used in a total amount of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. A total amount of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition, is particularly preferred.
  • Vitamin Be pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal
  • Vitamin C (ascorbic acid).
  • the usual total amount of vitamin C is 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred.
  • the use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol.
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are used according to the invention preferably in a total amount of 0.05 to 1 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential carboxylic acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] - imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, meanwhile, the trivial name biotin has prevailed.
  • Biotin is preferably used in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • Particularly preferred according to the invention is the use of vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.
  • compositions according to the invention there are no fundamental restrictions.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention are characterized in addition to the excellent cleansing, nourishing and foaming properties continue by their application and production-friendly rheology and viscosity.
  • a second subject of the present invention is a use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for the cleansing and / or care of skin and hair.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention for the cleansing and / or care of skin and hair.
  • a third object of the present invention is a method for cleaning and / or care of the skin and hair, wherein a cosmetic according to the invention
  • Composition is applied to the optionally previously washed and / or wet hair and optionally rinsed off after a certain period of time, wherein after the application of the cosmetic composition improved combing and entanglement and improved feel and shine occur.
  • the method for cleaning and / or care of skin and hair mutatis mutandis applies to the cosmetic compositions of the invention.
  • the proteolipid of the formula (I) used in the following examples is preferably a compound of the formula (Ia) and / or (Ib) and / or (Ic).
  • the washing raw materials and the bulk of the water are introduced, heated to 70 ° C to 80 ° C and stirred until homogeneous. Subsequently, if appropriate, the thickeners preswollen in warm water and polymeric care substances are added. After all ingredients have been added to the cosmetic composition, gasification may optionally be performed with cooling and stirring to 25 ° C. If no gassing is provided, the mixture is cooled to 25 ° C with stirring.
  • the preservatives as well optionally mixed with a solubilizer perfume oils are added only at a temperature of 35 ° C.
  • the formulations I to IX according to the invention result in cosmetic compositions which have high foaming power and excellent cleaning performance.
  • the use of a combination of at least one specific ceramide, at least one special proteolipid and at least one surfactant also leads to an improvement in hair properties, such as combability, entangleability, the handle and the gloss, and has no negative interactions with other ingredients.
  • the hairs cleaned with the cosmetic compositions according to the invention have improved dry and wet combability, improved entanglement, improved feel and improved gloss.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention have a high storage stability.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des compositions cosmétiques renfermant: (a) au moins un céramide, en une quantité totale de 0,0001 à 3,0 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition cosmétique, (b) au moins un protéolipide de formule (I), dans laquelle R1 désigne un groupe hydrocarbure à chaîne linéaire, de 8 à 22 atomes de carbone, R2 désigne -(CH2)y-CH3 où y = 0 à 22, Y désigne -H ou -OH, X désigne un anion physiologiquement compatible, Hy désigne un radical oligopeptide d'un hydrolysat kératine et x présente une valeur comprise entre 0 et 22, en une quantité totale de 0,00001 à 10 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition cosmétique, et (c) au moins un agent tensioactif, choisi dans le groupe constitué par (i) des tensioactifs anioniques; (ii) des tensioactifs non ioniques; (iii) des tensioactifs cationiques; (iv) des tensioactifs amphotères; ainsi que des mélanges de ces produits, qui présentent un pouvoir nettoyant remarquable, et qui facilitent le peignage et le démêlage et permettent d'obtenir un toucher et un éclat améliorés.
PCT/DE2014/200605 2013-12-13 2014-10-29 Composition cosmétique renfermant une combinaison de protéolipides et de céramides WO2015086004A1 (fr)

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DE102013225846.1A DE102013225846A1 (de) 2013-12-13 2013-12-13 Kosmetische Zusammensetzung enthaltend eine Kombination aus Proteolipiden und Ceramiden
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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB2547061A (en) * 2015-09-01 2017-08-09 Henkel Ag & Co Kgaa High-Performance hair treatment agents with a Proteolipid and a magnesium salt
WO2018050483A1 (fr) * 2016-09-13 2018-03-22 Basf Se Hydrolysats de kératine de faible poids moléculaire

Citations (3)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1992013829A1 (fr) 1991-02-06 1992-08-20 Smith Ronald J Composes quaternaires de panthenol et utilisation desdits composes
EP0704200A1 (fr) * 1994-09-29 1996-04-03 L'oreal Compositions cosmétiques contenant un composé lipidique de type céramide et un peptide à une chaîne grasse, et leurs utilisations
DE102011004123A1 (de) * 2011-02-15 2012-08-16 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Kosmetisches Reinigungsmittel zur Erhöhung des Haarvolumens

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1992013829A1 (fr) 1991-02-06 1992-08-20 Smith Ronald J Composes quaternaires de panthenol et utilisation desdits composes
EP0704200A1 (fr) * 1994-09-29 1996-04-03 L'oreal Compositions cosmétiques contenant un composé lipidique de type céramide et un peptide à une chaîne grasse, et leurs utilisations
DE102011004123A1 (de) * 2011-02-15 2012-08-16 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Kosmetisches Reinigungsmittel zur Erhöhung des Haarvolumens

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Title
"International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", 1997, THE COSMETIC, TOILETRY, AND FRAGRANCE ASSOCIATION
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 1 May 2009 (2009-05-01), "Regenerating Hair Treatment", XP002735382, Database accession no. 1108487 *

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB2547061A (en) * 2015-09-01 2017-08-09 Henkel Ag & Co Kgaa High-Performance hair treatment agents with a Proteolipid and a magnesium salt
GB2547061B (en) * 2015-09-01 2018-01-10 Henkel Ag & Co Kgaa High-Performance hair treatment agents with a Proteolipid and a magnesium salt
WO2018050483A1 (fr) * 2016-09-13 2018-03-22 Basf Se Hydrolysats de kératine de faible poids moléculaire
CN109689022A (zh) * 2016-09-13 2019-04-26 巴斯夫欧洲公司 低分子量角蛋白水解物

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