GB2591182A

GB2591182A - Silicone-free hair oils for conditioning keratin fibres

Info

Publication number: GB2591182A
Application number: GB2019875.0A
Authority: GB
Inventors: Battermann Marlene; Kerl Sylvia
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2019-12-19
Filing date: 2020-12-16
Publication date: 2021-07-21
Anticipated expiration: 2040-12-16
Also published as: FR3104965B1; DE102019135205A1; GB2591182B; GB202019875D0; FR3104965A1

Abstract

Cosmetic hair oils are disclosed consisting essentially of esters, triglycerides and natural oils as defined therein which are free from silicones. Also disclosed is the use of such compositions for the care of keratin fibres, in particular hair. The said hair oil compositions can be formulated according to natural cosmetic guidelines.

Description

SILICONE-FREE HAIR OILS FOR CONDITIONING KERATIN FIBRES

[0001] The invention relates to cosmetic hair oils comprising esters, triglycerides and natural oils and free from silicones, and their use for the care of keratin fibres, in particular hair. Invented hair oils can be formulated according to natural cosmetic guidelines.

BACKGROUND

[0002] Hair conditioners with nourishing effects consist mainly of quats (quaternary ammonium compounds), silicone oils, fatty acids and polymers. For some years now, the hair cosmetic sector has been developing hair oils, which consist mainly of silicone oils. Furthermore, the hair oils are used as "leave-in products", i.e. the formulations remain in the hair without subsequent rinsing. The consumer thus saves time and water. From this point of view, the hair oils enjoy a beneficial sustainability. The success of hair oils of this type on the market is extremely high.

[0003] New combinations are being sought that can guarantee a high level of care, a noticeable nursing effect and good stability. In the context of sustainability, greater emphasis is currently being placed on raw materials of plant origin or with good biodegradability. In this context, silicone oils are a constant source of criticism. However, the good supply level should not be impaired. The biggest difficulty in replacing silicone oils in hair oils is to find natural oils or natural raw materials that do not burden or grease the hair. There is also an increasing demand for cosmetic products formulated according to the Natural Cosmetics Directive.

[0004] In addition to the natural environmental influences, human hair is also exposed to a number of other, particularly cosmetic, stresses. Among these stresses that put a strain on the hair are the colouring of the hair and the shaping of the hair, e.g. by permanent waves. Cosmetic hair care products are used to reduce the adverse effects of (environmental) influences affecting the hair structure, but also to maintain and improve the natural hair structure. An essential active ingredient in many of these cosmetic products consists of organosilicon compounds, in particular silicones such as trisiloxanes, which are characterized by caring properties. The disadvantages of these silicones are the reduced penetration of active ingredients and additives into the hair by wetting the hair surface and the increased difficulty in styling the hair, also by wetting the hair surface. The provision of care products with low silicone content or silicone-free is therefore a relevant goal in the field of hair cosmetics.

[0005] The user of ester oils in hair conditioning products is described in the international patent application WO 2010/063565 Al.

[0006] EP 2 623 088 A2 contains hair care products containing at least one ester oil and at least one isoparaffin from the group of isodecanes, isoundecanes, isodododecanes, isotridecanes and isotetradecanes. Mixtures of ester oils and polymeric quatemmy ammonium compounds are additionally described as well as combinations of both cosmetic products.

[0007] The aim of the present invention is to provide cosmetic products that eliminate the co-use of organosilicon compounds, in particular silicones, while maintaining the performance of silicone-containing formulations. The weightiness of the hair and the greasy condition of the treated hair, which often occurs when using silicones, should be avoided. The aim of the present invention is in particular to enable the use of raw materials in a silicone-free hair oil, which would enable certification as natural cosmetics, and at the same time to preserve the positive care and conditioning properties when using the hair oil to treat hair fibres.

BRIEF SUMMARY

[0008] The object of the present disclosure is solved by the subject-matter of the independent claims, wherein further embodiments are incorporated in the dependent claims.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0009] The following detailed description is merely exemplary in nature and is not intended to limit the disclosure or the application and uses of the subject matter as described herein. Furthermore, there is no intention to be bound by any theory presented in the preceding background or the following detailed description.

[0010] Surprisingly, it was found that a mixture of ester, triglyceride, natural oil and optionally perfume has good conditioning properties without leaving an oily condition on the hair. The task underlying the present invention is therefore solved by a silicone free hair oil, comprising: a) at least one ester, b) at least one triglyceri de, c) at least one natural oil, and d) optionally at least one perfume, where the at least one ester a) is not a triglyceride.

[0011] "At least one" in the sense of the present invention means that the hair oil may contain the corresponding component one, two, three, four, five, six or more times. For example, an ester can be included. It may also contain mixtures of 2, 3,4, 5, 6 or more different esters. If in the following weight data for the components are mentioned, then these always refer to the total weight of the component, thus for example the total weight of all contained esters.

[0012] Preferred compositions as contemplated herein consist essentially of the listed ingredients. "Consisting essentially of' in the sense of the present invention means that the composition necessarily includes the listed ingredients and may comprise further auxiliary ingredients that do not materially affect the basic properties of the composition. Most preferred compositions as contemplated herein consist of (i e contain only) the listed ingredients [0013] The hair oil is preferably a natural cosmetic, i.e. a hair oil certified according to natural cosmetic guidelines. For example, the COSMOS standard (version 3.0, published January 1, 2019), which is available under http s://cosmosstandard. wordpress. com/2018/12/C 0 SNIO S -standard-V3.0-including-editorial -changes-0101 2019.pdf.

[0014] The ester is preferably an ester based on natural raw materials. In particular, the ester is based on C6-C30 fatty acids with C2-C20 alcohols. Preferably, the fatty acids have 12 to 22 carbon atoms and/or the alcohol 4 to 12 carbon atoms. Especially preferred it is an ester of olive oil. The essential fatty acids of olive oil are oleic acid, linoleic acid, palmitic acid. The alcohol is preferably a linear or branched, preferably branched, alkyl alcohol with 4 to 10 C atoms. Suitable esters are for example those with the LNC1 designation Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivates.

[0015] In addition to the ester, the hair oil can also contain other components of olive oil.

The hair oil contains Hydrogenated Ethlyhexyl Olivate and Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables (the INCI name is indicated) Commercially, this is for example offered by the company Berg + Schmidt GmbH & Co. KG, Hamburg, Germany, under the name BergaCare FG Olive.

100161 The hair oil comprises the at least one ester preferably in a proportion of from about 1% to about 65% by weight, in particular from about 5% to about 65% by weight, preferably from about 10% to about 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair oil.

[0017] In addition to the ester, the hair oil also contains at least one triglyceride. The at least one triglyceride is preferably an ester of glycerol with one or more C6-C14 carboxylic acids. Triglycerides with the INC1 designation Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides are suitable, for example.

[0018] The hair oil comprises the at least one triglyceride preferably in a proportion of from about 1% to about 60% by weight, in particular from about 2% to about 25% by weight, preferably from about 5% to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair oil [0019] The at least one natural oil can be selected from Ricinus Communis (castor oil) seed oil, Crambe Abyssinica seed oil, Amaranth seed oil, Apricot kernel oil, Argan oil, Avocado oil, Babassu oil, Cottonseed oil, Borage seed oil, Camelina oil, Safflower oil, Peanut oil, Pomegranate seed oil, Grapefruit seed oil, Hemp oil, Hazelnut oil, Elderberry seed oil, Black currant seed oil, Jojoba oil, Cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn germ oil, almond oil, manila oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, orange oil, palm oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, wild rose oil, the liquid components of coconut oil and mixtures thereof [0020] The hair oil may contain only one natural oil component (a natural oil) or a mixture of two or more different natural oil components. For example, the hair oil can contain a mixture of Helianthus Annuus (sunflower) seed oil with none, one or more other natural oil components. Preferably the only contained natural oil component is Helianthus Annuus (sunflower) seed oil.

[0021] The at least one natural oil is preferably contained in a proportion of from about 0.01% to about 60% by weight, in particular from about 0.5% to about 40% by weight, preferably from about 5% to about 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair oil [0022] The hair oils revealed herein may also contain at least one perfume. The at least one perfume is preferably contained in a proportion of from 0 wt% to about 1 wt%, in particular from about 0.1 wt?/ to about 0.9 wt%, preferably from about 0.2 wt?/ to about 0.8 wt%.

[0023] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention thus reveals a hair oil produced according to natural cosmetic guidelines, comprises: a) Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate (and) Hydrogenated 01 ve Oil Unsaponifiables (NCI Name) b) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceri de (INCI Name) c) Sunflower seed oil and d) optionally one or more perfumes [0024] In a more preferred embodiment, the present invention thus reveals a hair oil produced according to natural cosmetic guidelines, consists essentially of: a) Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables (NCI Name) b) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceri de (INCI Name) c) Sunflower seed oil and d) optionally one or more perfumes.

[0025] By using the hair oil according to the invention, it is possible to avoid organosili con compounds, especially silicones, in hair oil. For the purposes of the present invention, "silicone-free" means that the hair oil is free from organosilicon compounds, in particular free from silicones, trisiloxanes and silicone oils.

[0026] Especially preferred is to apply the hair oil via a dispenser to the user's hand. Thus, the packaging is adapted on the basis of this application method, as the expert understands it well. The user then distributes the hair oil from the hand/hands to the hair length and tips. The user can apply the hair oil to his hand/hands before distribution. The user can pump the hair oil into his hand, so the dispenser can include a pump. The dispenser may also include a pipette so that the oil can be delivered from the dispenser to the hand. The dispenser can also contain a droplet insert.

100271 The hair oil can alternatively be applied in the form of a spray oil and sprayed onto the hair. The spray can be a pump spray, or the spraying can be done using propellants. Suitable propellants (blowing gases) are propane, propene, n-butane, iso-butane, iso-butene, n-pentane, pentene, iso-pentane, i so-pentane, iso-pentane, methane, ethane, dimethyl ether, nitrogen, air, oxygen, nitrous oxide, 1,1,1,1,3-tetratluoroethane, heptafluoro-n-propane, pertluoroethane, monochlorodifluoromethane, 1,1-difluoroethane, in particular individually or in combination. Hydrophilic propellants such as carbon dioxide can also be advantageously used if the proportion of hydrophilic gases is chosen to be low and a lipophilic propellant (e.g. propane/butane) is present in excess. Propane, n-butane-, isobutane and mixtures of these propellants are particularly preferred. It has been found that the use of n-butane-as the only propellant gas can be particularly preferred. Containers made of metal (aluminium, tinplate, tin), protected or non-splintering plastic or glass, coated on the outside with plastic, can be used as pressurized gas containers; compressive strength and breaking strength, corrosion resistance, easy filling as well as aesthetic aspects, handling, printability, etc. play a role in the selection.

100281 The invention thus also relates to the use of the hair oil for the care of keratin fibres.

[0029] A further object of the present application is therefore a process for treating keratin fibres, characterized in that a hair oil is applied to the dried and/or moist keratin fibres according to the invention.

[0030] The hair oil according to the invention is preferably used directly before, during or after an oxidative or surface-active hair treatment. In the context of the invention, the term "immediately prior to oxidative or surface-active hair treatment" means an application directly following the oxidative or surface-active hair treatment, wherein the hair treatment agent corresponding to the invention has previously been rinsed from the hair or preferably left on the hair and the hair is preferably still wet.

[0031] The term "after oxidative or surface-active hair treatment" in the context of the invention means an application which follows either directly the oxidative or surface-active hair treatment, whereby the hair treatment agent corresponding to the invention is applied to the preferably still wet towel-dried hair after the agent with oxidative or surface-active effect has been rinsed out, or is applied to the dry or wet hair only after several hours or days. In both cases, the hair treatment agent corresponding to the invention can be rinsed out again after a reaction time of a few seconds up to about 45 minutes or remain completely on the hair.

[0032] Another subject of the present application is the use of a hair oil according to the invention for the care of keratin fibres In particular, the use of a cosmetic product after the invention is claimed here: - to improve the wet and dry combability of keratin fibres, - to improve the gloss of keratin fibres, - to improve the feeling of the keratin fibres.

[0033] According to the invention, combability means both the combability of wet fibres and the combability of dry fibres The combing work or the force applied when combing a fibre bundle is used as a measure of combability. The measurement parameters can be assessed by a specialist using sensors or quantified with measuring instruments [0034] In addition to the active ingredients described above the hair oils according to the invention may contain other ingredients. The group of these further ingredients includes in particular the cosmetically effective active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives.

[0035] A first group of optional ingredients is formed by the additional substances that form oil bodies. Examples include di-n-alkyl ethers with a total of 12 to 36 C atoms: - Di-n-alkyl ethers with a total of 12 to 36 C atoms, in particular 12 to 24 C atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-noctyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert. -butyl-n-octyl ether, isopentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The commercially available compounds 1,3-di-(2-ethyl-hexyl)-cyclohexane (Cetiolg S) and di-noctylether (Cetiole OE) may be preferred.

[0036] The hair oil according to the invention may also contain fatty acid partial glycerides (partial glycerides), i.e. monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures as an additional component. When technical products are used, the production process may still contain small amounts of triglycerides The partial glycerides preferably confirm the following formula CH20(CH2CH20)411 CHO(CH2CH20),,R2 CH20(CH2C1-120),i R3 wherein Ri, R2 and R3 independently of one another represent hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and/or unsaturated acyl group having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents an acyl group and at least these groups represent hydrogen. The sum (m+n+q) stands for 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably for 0 or 5 to 25, where at least one of m or n or q is O. 121 preferably stands for an acyl group and R2 and R3 preferably stand for hydrogen, and the sum (m+n+q) is 0. Typical examples are mono-and/or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, Stearic acid, i sosteari c acid, oleic acid, el ai di c acid, petrosel inic acid, linol ei c acid, linoleni c acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and mixtures thereof Preferably oleic acid monoglycerides are used.

100371 Suitable active ingredients, auxiliary materials and additives are in particular additional care substances. For example, the product may contain at least one protein hydrolysate and/or one of its derivatives as a maintenance substance. Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid-catalysed, base-catalysed or enzyme-catalysed degradation of proteins. According to the invention, the term "protein hydrolysates" also includes total hydrolysates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives and mixtures of different amino acids. The molecular weight of protein hydrolysates usable according to the invention is between about 75, the molecular weight for glycine and about 200,000 daltons, and the molecular weight is preferably from about 75 to about 50,000 daltons and most preferably from about 75 to about 20,000 daltons.

[0038] According to the invention, the agent may also contain at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and/or one of its derivatives as a care substance. According to the invention, vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred here, which are usually assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H. [0039] According to the invention, the products may also contain at least one plant extract as a care substance, but also monosaccharides or oligosaccharides and/or lipids.

[0040] Especially preferred hair oils according to the invention are preferably formulated as an application mixture with low water content. The water content of the preferred hair oils, based on the total weight of the hair oils, is less than about 10% by weight, preferably less than about 5.0% by weight, particularly preferably less than about 1.0% by weight and particularly less than about 0.1% by weight, very particularly preferred hair oils containing no water.

[0041] The hair oil disclosed herein may have any viscosity that makes it suitable for delivery from the package to the user's hand. The viscosity of the hair oil disclosed herein can be measured in centipoise (cps). The hair oil disclosed herein may have a viscosity ranging from about 0.8 cps to about 500,000 cps. In one example, a hair oil disclosed herein is offered as a dispensable liquid with a viscosity ranging from about 300 to about 5,000 cps, for example from about 1,000 cps to about 4,000 cps.

Methods [0042] The present specification is also directed to a method of using a hair oil according to the invention. The procedure involves applying the hair oil revealed herein to the hair. The procedure involves dispensing the hair oil revealed herein onto the user's hand and from the user's hand onto the hair. The procedure can also include rubbing the hair. The procedure may involve the user applying the hair oil to his hand or hands before applying it to the hair.

[0043] The procedure for using a hair oil revealed herein may also include additional, optional steps. In an example, such steps may include air drying the hair, drying the hair with heat, styling the hair and any other appropriate step known to a person specialized in the art of hair treatment [0044] While at least one exemplary embodiment has been presented in the foregoing detailed description, it should be appreciated that a vast number of variations exist It should also be appreciated that the exemplary embodiment or exemplary embodiments are only examples, and are not intended to limit the scope, applicability, or configuration of the various embodiments in any way. Rather, the foregoing detailed description will provide those skilled in the art with a convenient road map for implementing an exemplary embodiment as contemplated herein. It being understood that various changes may be made in the function and arrangement of elements described in an exemplary embodiment without departing from the scope of the various embodiments as set forth in the appended claims.

Claims

Patent Claims I. Silicone-free hair oil, comprising: a) at least one ester, b) at least one triglyceride, c) at least one natural oil, and d) optionally at least one perfume, where the ester is not a triglyceride.
2. Hair oil according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least one ester is selected from esters of C6-C30 fatty acids with C2-C20 alcohols.
3. Hair oil according to claim 2, characterized in that the fatty acids have 12 to 22 C atoms and/or the alcohol has 4 to 12 C atoms.
4. Hair oil according to any one of claims 2 or 3, characterized in that the fatty acid is selected from oleic acid, linoleic acid, palmitic acid and mixtures thereof
5. Hair oil according to any one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that the alcohol is a branched alkyl alcohol with 4 to 10 C atoms.
6. Hair oil according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the at least one ester is contained in a proportion of from about 1% to about 65% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair oil.
7. Hair oil according to any one of claims Ito 6, characterized in that the at least one ester is contained in a proportion of from about 5% to about 65% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair oil.
8. Hair oil according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the at least one ester is contained in a proportion of from about 10% to about 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair oil.
9. Hair oil according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the at least one triglyceride is an ester of glycerol with one or more C6-C14 carboxylic acids.
10. Hair oil according to any one of claims Ito 9, characterized in that the at least one triglyceride is contained in a proportion of from about 1% to about 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair oil.
11. Hair oil according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the at least one triglyceride is contained in a proportion of from about 2% to about 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair oil.
12. Hair oil according to any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the at least one triglyceride is contained in a proportion of from about 5% to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair oil.
13. Hair oil according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, wherein the at least one natural oil is selected from Ricinus Communis (Castor) seed oil, Crambe Abyssinica seed oil, Amaranth seed oil, Apricot kernel oil, Argan oil, Avocado oil, Babassu oil, Cottonseed oil, Borage seed oil, Camelina oil, Safflower oil, Peanut oil, Pomegranate kernel oil, Grapefruit kernel oil, Hemp oil, Hazelnut oil, Elderberry seed oil, Currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, manila oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, orange oil, palm oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, Sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, wild rose oil, the liquid components of coconut oil and mixtures thereof.
14 Hair oil according to any one of claims Ito 13, characterized in that the at least one natural oil is contained in a proportion of from about 0.01% to about 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair oil.
15. Hair oil according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that the at least one natural oil is contained in a proportion of from about 0.5% to about 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair oil.
16. Hair oil according to any one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that the at least one natural oil is contained in a proportion of from about 5% to about 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair oil
17. Hair oil according to any one of claims Ito 16, characterized in that the at least one perfume is contained in a proportion of from 0% to about 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair oil.
18. Hair oil according to any one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that the at least one perfume is contained in a proportion of from about 0.1% to about 0.9% by weight, based on the total weight of the hair oil.
19. Hair oil according to any one of claims 1 to 18, characterized in that the at least one perfume is contained in a proportion of from about 0.2% to about 0.8% by weight based on the total weight of the hair oil.
20. Hair oil according to any one of claims 1 to 19, further comprising: e) at least one substance that forms oil bodies, 0 at least one fatty acid partial glyceride, g) at least one care substance.
21. Hair oil according to any one of claims Ito 20, wherein the hair oil contains less than about 10% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the hair oil.
22. Hair oil according to any one of claims Ito 21, characterized in that the hair oil is certified according to natural cosmetic guidelines
23. Hair oil according to any one of claims 1 to 22, characterized in that the hair oil consists essentially of components a)-c) and optional components d)-g).
24. Hair oil according to any one of claims 1 to 23, characterized in that the hair oil consists of components a)-c) and optional components d)-g).
25. Use of a hair oil according to any one of the previous claims for the care of hair fibres.