EP0229955A1 - Procédé de fabrication de bijoux par électroformage - Google Patents

Procédé de fabrication de bijoux par électroformage Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0229955A1
EP0229955A1 EP86116898A EP86116898A EP0229955A1 EP 0229955 A1 EP0229955 A1 EP 0229955A1 EP 86116898 A EP86116898 A EP 86116898A EP 86116898 A EP86116898 A EP 86116898A EP 0229955 A1 EP0229955 A1 EP 0229955A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
stone
jewelry
precious
support
core
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP86116898A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Herbert Kull
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Juwedor GmbH
Original Assignee
Juwedor GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Juwedor GmbH filed Critical Juwedor GmbH
Publication of EP0229955A1 publication Critical patent/EP0229955A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A44C17/046—Setting gems in a plurality of non coplanar table top planes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/02—Settings for holding gems or the like, e.g. for ornaments or decorations
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C25—ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PROCESSES; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D—PROCESSES FOR THE ELECTROLYTIC OR ELECTROPHORETIC PRODUCTION OF COATINGS; ELECTROFORMING; APPARATUS THEREFOR
    • C25D1/00—Electroforming
    • Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T29/00—Metal working
    • Y10T29/23—Gem and jewel setting

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method for the galvanoplastic production of largely hollow jewelry made of metals, in particular precious metals with at least one setting for a stone, in particular a precious stone, or semi-precious stone, in that the precious metal is electrolytically deposited on an electrically conductive mold core that has the spatial contour of the piece of jewelry, after reaching the desired layer thickness, the core is dissolved by chemical or thermal means and the core material is removed through an opening in the noble metal layer.
  • the mandrel is produced in a conventional manner in a negative model of the piece of jewelry by pouring out, in principle all materials that can be thermally or chemically liquefied or volatilized without attacking the metal can be used as the material.
  • materials are concerned that are not themselves electrically conductive, such as waxes
  • the mold core is coated with a metal in an electrically conductive manner and, if necessary, the wax is immediately removed, so that a hollow mold core is formed.
  • the dissolved core material is removed through an opening in the noble metal layer, which is either already obtained during the deposition process or is subsequently attached.
  • the prongs consist of web-like or strip-like solid sheet metal strips, which are usually soldered to the stone support and overlap the stone edges after pressing.
  • the Chaton version is made of tall, narrow bars that grip the stone edges like fingers.
  • grain holders in which the stone is held by individual small pin-like or column-like "grains" that protrude above the stone support and thus also form a delicate holder with greater incidence of light.
  • the grains are obtained by cutting out a kind of chip from the solid frame material, bending it up and then reshaping it into a head by mechanical processing, the stone being held at the periphery by several such grains.
  • the wall of the frame is worked out into the area of the stone support in order to obtain an even stronger incidence of light.
  • the stone bellows usually consists only of a support ring, so that the stone is also exposed on the back for the incidence of light.
  • the grain frames also include the Carreau, Thread and Pave frames, which usually consist of lined-up or grid-like individual frames. This is different from the frame or frame settings, which usually surround the gem in a ring on its entire circumference and generally give a more solid impression.
  • the invention is based on the object of further developing the galvanoplastic method mentioned at the outset such that pieces of jewelery with holders for stones, in particular gemstones, can also be produced without an additional operation.
  • this object is achieved in that the mandrel is provided in the region of the socket with a shaped surface forming a stone support and with the nose, ring or web-like approaches surrounding it and that after the core material has been removed, the stone is placed on the stone support is placed and the frame parts formed by the approaches are pressed against the stone.
  • a molding surface forming the stone support is initially provided and web-like or ring-shaped or nose-like projections are further formed, on which the noble metal is deposited with the same contours, so that a blank of the piece of jewelry is obtained after the core material has melted or dissolved , which on the one hand has a stone support, on the other hand has individual frame parts (prongs or grains) or a closed frame part (frame or frame) in the area of the web or nose-shaped lugs of the mold core. These frame parts are hollow.
  • the stone is then placed on the stone support of the possibly aftertreated jewelry blank.
  • the frame parts are then mechanically reshaped and pressed against the stone edges, so that the stone is held in place like in a conventional frame.
  • the mandrel is provided in the frame with a stone surface forming a mold surface and with this surrounding nose, ring or web-like approaches and that after the removal of the core material, the stone on the the lugs parts formed on the approaches and the stone support is pressed against the stone.
  • the metal layer in the middle region of the stone support is broken out while leaving a support ring.
  • This can be made easier, for example, by the fact that the stone support is molded Mold surface on the mandrel in the area to be broken out later has a linear elevation or depression or a linear, electrically non-conductive cover.
  • This creates a predetermined breaking line that facilitates the breaking out of the metal layer in this area.
  • the mandrel can also be electrically non-conductive in this entire area. This can be done for example by an insulating cover or the like.
  • a version is obtained in which the stone is also exposed on the back, so that it appears in greater brilliance.
  • the metal layer on the back of the piece of jewelry opposite the socket is broken out or that the mandrel is electrolytically shielded on the rear side opposite the later socket.
  • Two measures are achieved by this measure.
  • the gemstone inserted into the setting is exposed on the back for the incidence of light, so that it appears in even better brilliance
  • the setting is accessible from the back of the piece of jewelry, so that the necessary removal of the precious metal layer in the area of the stone support is possible . This also facilitates the insertion and gripping of the stone from the back.
  • the hollow frame parts are filled with metal, in particular noble metal, after the mold core has been removed.
  • the hollow frame parts are stabilized so that they are not damaged - if necessary - during processing and the stone has an even better hold after gripping.
  • Figure 1 is shown schematically and broken a piece of jewelry 1, which is obtained with a thin wall 2 by electrolytic deposition on a mandrel and in which a stone 3 is subsequently inserted.
  • the piece of jewelry 1 has an annular stone support 4, on the upper edge of which several - four grains 5 are arranged symmetrically in the exemplary embodiment shown (see FIG. 2).
  • the stone 3 is held by pressing the grains 5 against the upper stone surfaces.
  • the entire piece of jewelry 1, including the stone support 4 and the grains 5, is produced by electrolytic deposition on a mold core 6 shown in dash-dot lines in FIG. 1, made of electrically conductive or correspondingly coated material.
  • the mandrel 6 has in the area of the ring-shaped stone support 4 a recess 7 of the same shape, on the upper edge of which there are largely vertical, nose-like projections 8 corresponding to the number of desired grains 5.
  • a depression 9 adjoins the depression 7 in the mandrel, so that an edge is formed between the depression 7 and depression 9.
  • the precious metal layer When the precious metal layer is deposited on the mandrel, it occurs in the area of this edge to inhomogeneities similar to a predetermined breaking line, so that the precious metal deposited in the depression 9 can be easily broken out and thus an annular stone support 4 is formed, so that the stone 5 is not shadowed to the rear.
  • the base 7 of the depression 7 can also be made electrolytically non-conductive, for example provided with an insulating layer.
  • the optical effect of the stone 3 can be further increased by choosing a type of Carreau frame according to FIG. 2, by means of which the stone is highlighted from the surrounding piece of jewelry.
  • FIGS. 3 and 4 show, several stones can be arranged on a piece of jewelry in a manner similar to a pave setting. In this case, too, the grains are captured. All other types of sockets can naturally also be produced in the same way, in that case the elevation 8 is not in the form of a nose, but in the form of approaches with a corresponding contour and arrangement.
  • the mandrel 6 can also be designed such that either no precious metal is deposited on the back of the piece of jewelery opposite the setting or the precious metal layer can be subsequently removed so that the setting is accessible from the back.
  • This also gives the possibility of the frame parts on the visible side, for. B. the grains 5 or an annular peripheral frame in their final form during electrolytic deposition and then use as a stone support for the stone 3 to be used from behind.
  • the support ring 7 is formed during the electrolytic deposition so that the stone 3 can be used, and then the support ring or individual strips of the noble metal layer are pressed against the back of the stone 3.
  • the socket parts - the grains 5 in the exemplary embodiments shown - appear after electroforming, as described, as hollow projections, projections or the like. They can be made at least partially solid by filling from the open back of the jewelry body. For example, a precious metal alloy with a slightly lower melting point can be used for refilling. This design makes it easier to absorb the forming forces when gripping the gem and gives the stone a stable hold.

Landscapes

  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • Electrochemistry (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Metallurgy (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Adornments (AREA)
  • Eyeglasses (AREA)
EP86116898A 1985-12-16 1986-12-04 Procédé de fabrication de bijoux par électroformage Withdrawn EP0229955A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE3544429 1985-12-16
DE19853544429 DE3544429A1 (de) 1985-12-16 1985-12-16 Verfahren zur galvanoplastischen herstellung von schmuckwaren

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0229955A1 true EP0229955A1 (fr) 1987-07-29

Family

ID=6288551

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP86116898A Withdrawn EP0229955A1 (fr) 1985-12-16 1986-12-04 Procédé de fabrication de bijoux par électroformage

Country Status (4)

Country Link
US (1) US4710276A (fr)
EP (1) EP0229955A1 (fr)
JP (1) JPS62202092A (fr)
DE (1) DE3544429A1 (fr)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1993010686A1 (fr) * 1991-12-05 1993-06-10 Mueller Manfred Procede de fabrication de bijoux coules sertis

Families Citing this family (21)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
IN174705B (fr) * 1988-09-09 1995-02-18 Daya Ranjit Senanayake
DE3918920A1 (de) * 1989-06-09 1990-12-13 Eberle Josef Gmbh & Co Kg Galvanoplastisches verfahren zum herstellen von hohlen schmuck- und juwelierwaren
EP0620987A1 (fr) * 1993-04-22 1994-10-26 Firma Franz Breuning Sertissage d'une pierre de bijouterie
US5430365A (en) * 1993-07-02 1995-07-04 Tandem Computers Incorporated Power regulation for redundant battery supplies
FR2717051B1 (fr) * 1994-03-11 1996-08-02 Pgcm Conception Procédé de sertissage de pièces de bijouterie réalisées par électroformage et pièces ainsi obtenues.
EP0873209A1 (fr) * 1995-12-13 1998-10-28 Robert Baum Procede de production d'un article creux et article ainsi produit
FR2754152B1 (fr) * 1996-10-09 1998-12-24 Pgcm Conception Procede d'enchassement de pierres dans la surface d'un bijou realise par electroformage et bijou ainsi obtenu
GB9700051D0 (en) * 1997-01-03 1997-02-19 G & A Manufacturing Ltd Improvements relating to methods and apparatus for setting small objects in malleable materials
US5891317A (en) * 1997-02-04 1999-04-06 Avon Products, Inc. Electroformed hollow jewelry
AT2273U1 (de) * 1997-07-18 1998-08-25 Swarovski & Co Hohlschmuck
AU3775500A (en) * 1999-03-26 2000-10-16 Laser Optronic Technologies (Proprietary) Limited Setting of gemstones
US6245265B1 (en) * 1999-06-23 2001-06-12 International Business Machines Corporation Method of forming a die-castable hollow core actuator arm with improved damping
DE10030495A1 (de) 2000-06-21 2002-01-03 Zeiss Carl Verfahren zum Verbinden einer Vielzahl von optischen Elementen mit einem Grundkörper
US6467526B1 (en) 2000-10-23 2002-10-22 I.B. Goodman Manufacturing Co., Inc. Method of making a jewelry ring in a vertical mold
DE10136387A1 (de) 2001-07-26 2003-02-13 Zeiss Carl Objektiv, insbesondere Objektiv für die Halbleiter-Lithographie
DE10219514A1 (de) 2002-04-30 2003-11-13 Zeiss Carl Smt Ag Beleuchtungssystem, insbesondere für die EUV-Lithographie
US7265917B2 (en) 2003-12-23 2007-09-04 Carl Zeiss Smt Ag Replacement apparatus for an optical element
DE102008000967B4 (de) 2008-04-03 2015-04-09 Carl Zeiss Smt Gmbh Projektionsbelichtungsanlage für die EUV-Mikrolithographie
EP2549340B1 (fr) * 2011-07-20 2018-09-19 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd. Procédé pour fixer une garniture sur un élément d'habillage horloger et élément d'habillage réalisé selon ce procédé
EP2549341A1 (fr) * 2011-07-20 2013-01-23 The Swatch Group Research and Development Ltd. Procédé pour implanter un décor dans un élément d'habillage horloger déposé par galvanoplastie et élément d'habillage réalisé selon ce procédé
CH715238A1 (fr) * 2018-08-08 2020-02-14 Csem Centre Suisse Delectronique Et De Microtechnique Sa – Rech Et Developpement Procédé de formation d’un châton de sertissage sur un substrat non-ductile et objet obtenu selon ce procédé.

Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CH192892A (fr) * 1936-01-04 1937-09-15 Pasche Auguste Procédé pour fabriquer une monture métallique avec pierres de joaillerie montées, appareillage pour la mise en oeuvre de ce procédé et monture métallique avec pierres de joaillerie obtenue au moyen de ce procédé.

Family Cites Families (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE1244520B (de) * 1963-07-11 1967-07-13 W Kampschulte & Cie Dr Verfahren zur galvanoplastischen Herstellung von Schmuckstuecken

Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CH192892A (fr) * 1936-01-04 1937-09-15 Pasche Auguste Procédé pour fabriquer une monture métallique avec pierres de joaillerie montées, appareillage pour la mise en oeuvre de ce procédé et monture métallique avec pierres de joaillerie obtenue au moyen de ce procédé.

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1993010686A1 (fr) * 1991-12-05 1993-06-10 Mueller Manfred Procede de fabrication de bijoux coules sertis

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
US4710276A (en) 1987-12-01
DE3544429C2 (fr) 1987-12-17
DE3544429A1 (de) 1987-06-19
JPS62202092A (ja) 1987-09-05

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Inventor name: KULL, HERBERT