EP0204313A2 - String for jewellery - Google Patents

String for jewellery Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0204313A2
EP0204313A2 EP86107516A EP86107516A EP0204313A2 EP 0204313 A2 EP0204313 A2 EP 0204313A2 EP 86107516 A EP86107516 A EP 86107516A EP 86107516 A EP86107516 A EP 86107516A EP 0204313 A2 EP0204313 A2 EP 0204313A2
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
cord
threads
metal fibers
silk
cords
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Granted
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EP86107516A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP0204313B1 (en
EP0204313A3 (en
Inventor
Dieter Paul Bräuer
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Individual
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Individual
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Publication of EP0204313A2 publication Critical patent/EP0204313A2/en
Publication of EP0204313A3 publication Critical patent/EP0204313A3/en
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Publication of EP0204313B1 publication Critical patent/EP0204313B1/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C15/00Other forms of jewellery
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C11/00Watch chains; Ornamental chains
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C5/00Bracelets; Wrist-watch straps; Fastenings for bracelets or wrist-watch straps
    • A44C5/0053Flexible straps
    • A44C5/0061Flexible straps essentially made from metal

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a cord for jewelry purposes, which is particularly suitable for the production of necklaces. It is known to produce such cords from silk.
  • Silk cords are very supple and flexible and have the typical silky sheen. So that the cords do not dissolve, they are gripped at their ends, in particular by sleeves into which they are glued.
  • decorative elements are loosely pushed onto or attached to the silk cords.
  • silk cords have a number of disadvantages that have prevented them from being used extensively in the manufacture of real jewelry.
  • One of these disadvantages is that the silk fibers are easily vulnerable: decorative elements that are loosely arranged on the cord tend to cut more and more silk fibers as a result of their movement, which then protrude laterally from the cord and severely disturb its appearance. Even when wearing a piece of jewelry made using a silk cord, there is always a risk of individual fibers being damaged by rubbing, rubbing or even getting caught on other objects.
  • Another disadvantage of silk cords is that it is difficult to attach decorative elements to them, without hurting silk fibers.
  • Gluing is still the gentlest type of fastening, but once the decorative elements have been glued to the cord, it is practically impossible to remove them without damaging the cord, which is desirable for repair or cleaning purposes.
  • Cleaning is also a problem with silk cords, because they readily absorb grease, sweat, powder, cream, etc. from the skin and quickly become unsightly, making cleaning unavoidable.
  • Another disadvantage of silk cords is that it is difficult to fully grasp them at their ends; rather, one often observes signs of dissolution at the ends of the cords. All of this means that silk cords have to be replaced frequently.
  • the invention has for its object to provide a cord particularly suitable for jewelry purposes, which does not have the disadvantages mentioned, i.e. durable, easy to handle and easy to clean, has a decorative appearance and is sufficiently smooth and flexible. Surprisingly, it has been shown that these requirements can be met by cords which are made of endless, corrosion-resistant metal fibers with a diameter of not more than 20 ⁇ m exist. Only corrosion-resistant metals are suitable for the cords according to the invention, because they are intended for jewelry purposes and should not change their appearance due to signs of corrosion.
  • chrome-nickel steels such as the steel with the designation X5 CrNiMo 19 22, but also noble metals or noble metal alloys, insofar as they can be used to produce sufficiently thin, endless fibers.
  • Inconel fibers a nickel-based alloy with up to 72% nickel, 14-17% chromium, 6 to 10% iron, 0 - 28% cobalt
  • An endless fiber in the sense of the invention is such a fiber which extends over the entire length of the cord.
  • metal fibers with a diameter of not more than 20 ⁇ m are suitable for the invention, and metal fibers with a diameter between 8 ⁇ m and 15 ⁇ m are particularly suitable. Such metal fibers can surprisingly be used to produce cords that are not inferior to silk cords in their flexibility.
  • threads consisting of a number of metal fibers, in particular twisted threads, are first produced and then two groups of such threads are interwoven.
  • the ends of a cord according to the invention are expediently provided with a sleeve like the known cords made of silk. Unlike silk cords, this sleeve no longer has the function of holding the fibers of the cord together, rather it has a decorative function and is used in particular when used for a necklace to fasten a clasp.
  • the end sleeves can be attached to the cord in different ways, for example by gluing or soldering; It is of particular advantage compared to the fastening options for silk cords that the sleeves can also be fastened by clamping, riveting or pinning, without the cohesion of the Endangering cord. It is therefore also possible to remove the sleeves as required without destroying the cord.
  • the surface quality and suppleness of a cord according to the invention can be extremely positively influenced by heat treatment. For example, if a cord made of corrosion-resistant steel may feel a little rough after braiding, this roughness can be completely eliminated by heat treatment. After such a heat treatment, the cord feels extraordinarily smooth, sympathetic and supple and receives a matt sheen that is pronounced of a silk sheen and harmonises extraordinarily well with decorative elements made of precious metal. Such a cord feels similar to a silk cord, without having the disadvantages mentioned above.
  • the heat treatment can be carried out simply by passing the cord through an open flame after the ends have been soldered. Interaction with the flame gases and with the air can change the color of the surface of the cord, and it does so in a very advantageous and appealing way for cords made of corrosion-resistant steel. In addition to air, the heat treatment can also be carried out in other reactive gases or under protective gas, which means that the colors of the cord surface can be shifted.
  • the heat treatment can be used not only to smooth the cord and to color its surface, but also to relieve tension that is present in the cord as a result of the braiding process. Without such stress relief annealing, a cord according to the invention would try to relax after the braiding and soldering of its ends by turning back a little as soon as it is removed from the tensioning device in which it is held until the ends are soldered; this automatic relaxation is accompanied by loosening and a slight increase in the diameter of the cord. This automatic relaxation of the cord can be completely or partially prevented by relieving tension and thereby influencing how firm or flexible the cord ultimately becomes.
  • the cords are firmly clamped and stretched at their ends during the stress relief annealing and the shape of the cord is stabilized in this position by the heat treatment.
  • a cord according to the invention is not so easily soiled and can be repeated as required and cleaned without difficulty, ideally in an ultrasonic bath; Repeated cleaning processes do not affect the durability or the appearance of the cord.
  • Another advantage of the cord according to the invention is that it is specifically heavier than a silk cord. With regard to the use for jewelry purposes, this is an advantage that should not be underestimated, because the heavier design compared to a silk cord gives the wearer of the jewelry a feeling of high quality, and this is what makes the new cord unlike Silk cord also suitable for use for really precious, high quality jewelry.
  • the higher specific weight means that a cord according to the invention, particularly when used for a necklace, conforms more harmoniously to the body of the person wearing the piece of jewelry.
  • the cord is made from endless fibers made of corrosion-resistant steel.
  • a chrome-nickel-molybdenum steel with the grade 1.4404 according to DIN is particularly suitable.
  • the cross section of the metal fibers is round with a diameter of 12 ⁇ m.
  • Double-twisted metal threads are produced from yarn containing 275 of these metal fibers, the twisting being carried out at 200 turns per running meter.
  • the metal threads thus produced contain 550 fibers. Two groups of such metal threads are now intertwined into a cord. If you take 30 twisted threads for each group, you get a cord with a diameter of approximately 2.7 mm. For thicker or thinner cords, more or fewer threads are used accordingly.
  • the groups of 30 threads are intertwined with approximately 40 turns (right and left turns taken together) per running meter of the cord.
  • the cord When the cord is fully braided, its ends are soldered about 1 to 2 cm in length with silver braze, while the cord is taut and under torsion is held in a jig. When soldering, care is taken that the silver hard solder penetrates into the cord over the entire cross-section. If not already done, the desired strength or flexibility of the cord is set by rotating the two brackets of the clamping device that engage the ends of the cord and the cord is then subjected to a heat treatment in the stretched state, this is done by means of the open flame of a gas burner, which is carried along the cord. Due to the heat treatment, the cord is annealed without tension and at the same time it is smoothed on the surface and gets a silky, matt shine. The heat treatment can of course also be carried out in an oven and, instead of the air, can also be carried out under a protective gas or under another reaction gas if one wishes to color the surface.
  • the cord is removed from the clamping device and can then be further processed into a piece of jewelry.
  • the attached drawing shows such a cord in a schematic view.
  • the section is indicated, which ge with a silver hard solder is soaked.
  • a sleeve 2 is slid over the section impregnated with the silver solder, which will generally consist of a noble metal and is riveted or pinned to the cord. Since the cord consists of metal fibers and is impregnated with a silver hard solder at its end, it can be pierced transversely at the ends without the risk of partial loosening of the cord to accommodate a pin or rivet for fastening the sleeve 2.

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Abstract

1. A cord for ornamental purposes, particularly for necklaces, characterized in that it consists of endless corrosion-resisting metal fibres not in excess of 20 mu m in diameter.

Description

Gegenstand der Erfindung ist eine Kordel für Schmuckzwecke, welche sich insbesondere für die Herstellung von Colliers eignet. Es ist bekannt, solche Kordeln aus Seide herzustellen. Kordeln aus Seide sind sehr geschmeidig und flexibel und haben den typischen seidigen Glanz. Damit die Kordeln sich nicht auflösen, werden sie an ihren Enden gefaßt, insbesondere durch Hülsen, in welche sie eingeklebt werden. Zum Herstellen von Colliers werden schmückende Elemente auf die Seidenkordeln lose aufgeschoben oder auf ihnen befestigt.The invention relates to a cord for jewelry purposes, which is particularly suitable for the production of necklaces. It is known to produce such cords from silk. Silk cords are very supple and flexible and have the typical silky sheen. So that the cords do not dissolve, they are gripped at their ends, in particular by sleeves into which they are glued. To make necklaces, decorative elements are loosely pushed onto or attached to the silk cords.

Kordeln aus Seide haben jedoch eine Reihe von Nachteilen, die es verhindert haben, dass sie in größerem Umfang für die Herstellung von echten Schmuckwaren verwendet werden. Einer dieser Nachteile liegt darin, dass die Seidefasern leicht verletzlich sind: Schmückende Elemente, welche lose auf der Kordel angeordnet sind, neigen dazu, infolge ihrer Bewegung mehr und mehr Seidefasern zu zerschneiden, die dann seitlich aus der Kordel herausstehen und deren Erscheinungsbild empfindlich stören. Auch beim gewöhnlichen Tragen eines unter Verwendung einer Seidenkordel hergestellten Schmuckstücks besteht immer die Gefahr der Verletzung einzelner Fasern durch Reiben,Scheuern oder gar Hängenbleiben an anderen Gegenständen. Ein weiterer Nachteil von Seidenkordeln liegt darin, dass es schwer ist, schmückende Elemente auf ihnen zu befestigen, ohne Seidefasern zu verletzen. Die schonenste Art der Befestigung ist noch das Kleben, doch wenn die schmückenden Elemente einmal auf der Kordel durch Kleben befestigt sind, ist es praktisch nicht möglich, sie ohne Beschädigung der Kordel wieder zu entfernen, was für Zwecke der Reparatur oder Reinigung erwünscht ist. Auch die Reinigung ist ein Problem bei Seidenkordeln, denn sie nehmen bereitwillig Fett, Schweiß, Puder, Creme usw. von der Haut auf und rasch unansehlich, sodass eine Reinigung unumgänglich ist. Eine gründliche Reinigung ist jedoch erfahrungsgemäß sehr schwierig und die auf bzw. in der Kordel verbleibenden Verunreinigungen greifen die Seide an. Ein weiterer Nachteil der Seidenkordeln liegt darin, dass es schwer ist, sie an ihren Enden vollständig zu fassen; vielmehr beobachtet man gerade an den Enden der Kordeln, häufig Auflösungserscheinungen. Dies alles führt dazu, dass man Kordeln aus Seide häufig ersetzen muss.However, silk cords have a number of disadvantages that have prevented them from being used extensively in the manufacture of real jewelry. One of these disadvantages is that the silk fibers are easily vulnerable: decorative elements that are loosely arranged on the cord tend to cut more and more silk fibers as a result of their movement, which then protrude laterally from the cord and severely disturb its appearance. Even when wearing a piece of jewelry made using a silk cord, there is always a risk of individual fibers being damaged by rubbing, rubbing or even getting caught on other objects. Another disadvantage of silk cords is that it is difficult to attach decorative elements to them, without hurting silk fibers. Gluing is still the gentlest type of fastening, but once the decorative elements have been glued to the cord, it is practically impossible to remove them without damaging the cord, which is desirable for repair or cleaning purposes. Cleaning is also a problem with silk cords, because they readily absorb grease, sweat, powder, cream, etc. from the skin and quickly become unsightly, making cleaning unavoidable. Experience has shown, however, that thorough cleaning is very difficult and the contaminants remaining on or in the cord attack the silk. Another disadvantage of silk cords is that it is difficult to fully grasp them at their ends; rather, one often observes signs of dissolution at the ends of the cords. All of this means that silk cords have to be replaced frequently.

Der Erfindung liegt die Aufgabe zugrunde, eine für Schmuckzwecke besonders geeignete Kordel zur Verfügung zu stellen, welche die erwähnten Nachteile nicht hat, also langlebig, gut zu handhaben und leicht zu reinigen ist, dabei ein dekoratives Aussehen hat und hinreichend geschmeidig und flexibel ist. überraschenderweise hat sich gezeigt, dass man diesen Anforderungen gerecht werden kann durch Kordeln, welche aus endlosen, korrosionsbeständigen Metallfasern mit einem Durchmesser von nicht mehr als 20 µm bestehen. Für die erfindungsgemäßen Kordeln kommen nur korrosionsbeständige Metalle infrage, weil sie für Schmuckzwecke bestimmt sind und ihr Aussehen durch Korrosionserscheinungen nicht verändern sollen. Es kommen in erster Linie korrosionsbeständige Stähle, insbesondere Chrom-Nickel-Stähle infrage, wie z.B. der Stahl mit der Bezeichnung X5 CrNiMo 19 22, aber auch Edelmetalle oder Edelmetalllegierungen, soweit sich aus ihnen hinreichend dünne, endlose Fasern herstellen lassen. Geeignet sind auch Fasern aus Inconel (eine Nickelbasislegierung mit bis zu 72 % Nickel, 14-17 % Chrom, 6 bis 10 % Eisen, 0 - 28 % Kobalt). Eine endlose Faser im Sinne der Erfindung ist eine solche Faser, welche sich über die gesamte Länge der Kordel erstreckt.The invention has for its object to provide a cord particularly suitable for jewelry purposes, which does not have the disadvantages mentioned, i.e. durable, easy to handle and easy to clean, has a decorative appearance and is sufficiently smooth and flexible. Surprisingly, it has been shown that these requirements can be met by cords which are made of endless, corrosion-resistant metal fibers with a diameter of not more than 20 µm exist. Only corrosion-resistant metals are suitable for the cords according to the invention, because they are intended for jewelry purposes and should not change their appearance due to signs of corrosion. There are primarily corrosion-resistant steels, in particular chrome-nickel steels, such as the steel with the designation X5 CrNiMo 19 22, but also noble metals or noble metal alloys, insofar as they can be used to produce sufficiently thin, endless fibers. Inconel fibers (a nickel-based alloy with up to 72% nickel, 14-17% chromium, 6 to 10% iron, 0 - 28% cobalt) are also suitable. An endless fiber in the sense of the invention is such a fiber which extends over the entire length of the cord.

Wie steif oder flexibel die aus endlosen Metallfasern hergestellte Kordel ist, hängt maßgeblich vom Durchmesser der verwendeten Metallfasern ab. Für die Erfindung geeignet sind Metallfasern mit einem Durchmesser von nicht mehr als 20 um, besonders geeignet sind Metallfasern mit einem Durchmesser zwischen 8 um und 15 um. Aus solchen Metallfasern lassen sich überraschenderweise Kordeln herstellen, die in ihrer Flexibilität Kordeln aus Seide nicht nachstehen.How stiff or flexible the cord made of endless metal fibers is depends largely on the diameter of the metal fibers used. Metal fibers with a diameter of not more than 20 µm are suitable for the invention, and metal fibers with a diameter between 8 µm and 15 µm are particularly suitable. Such metal fibers can surprisingly be used to produce cords that are not inferior to silk cords in their flexibility.

Zur Herstellung einer erfindungsgemäßen Kordel werden zunächst aus einer Anzahl von Metallfasern bestehende Fäden, insbesondere Zwirnsfäden hergestellt und dann zwei Gruppen solcher Fäden miteinander verflochten.To produce a cord according to the invention, threads consisting of a number of metal fibers, in particular twisted threads, are first produced and then two groups of such threads are interwoven.

Wieviele Fäden man für die beiden miteinander zu verflechtenden Fadengruppen nimmt, richtet sich danach, wie dick die Kordel werden soll. Damit sich die Kordel nach dem Flechten nicht wieder auflöst, werden ihre Enden verlötet, und zwar zweckmässigerweise, während die Kordel noch straff und Torsion gehalten wird, damit sie während des Lötens ihre Gestalt beibehält. Das Lot kann sich über den gesamten Querschnitt der Kordel verteilen und jede einzelne Faser der Kordel erfassen, sodass vom Ende der Kordel ausgehende Auflösungserscheinungen, wie man sie bei Seidekordeln kennt, absolut ausgeschlossen sind.How many threads you take for the two groups of threads to be intertwined depends on how thick the cord should be. So that the cord does not dissolve after braiding, its ends are soldered, expediently, while the cord is still held tight and torsion so that it retains its shape during the soldering. The solder can be distributed over the entire cross-section of the cord and grasp each individual fiber of the cord, so that the end of the cord, the signs of dissolution, as you know it with silk cords, are absolutely excluded.

Zweckmässigerweise versieht man die Enden einer erfindungsgemäßen Kordel wie die bekannten Kordeln aus Seide mit einer Hülse. Anders als bei Kordeln aus Seide hat diese Hülse jedoch nicht mehr die Funktion, die Fasern der Kordel zusammenzuhalten, sie hat vielmehr eine dekorative Funktion und dient insbesondere bei Verwendung für ein Collier zur Befestigung einer Schließe. Die Befestigung der Endhülsen an der Kordel kann auf unterschiedliche Weise erfolgen, beispielsweise durch Kleben oder Löten; von besonderem Vorteil im Vergleich zu den Befestigungsmöglichkeiten bei Seidenkordeln ist es jedoch, dass man die Hülsen auch durch Klemmen, Nieten oder Verstiften befestigen kann, ohne den Zusammenhalt der Kordel zu gefährden. Somit besteht auch die Möglichkeit, die Hülsen nach Bedarf ohne Zerstörung der Kordel wieder entfernen zu können.The ends of a cord according to the invention are expediently provided with a sleeve like the known cords made of silk. Unlike silk cords, this sleeve no longer has the function of holding the fibers of the cord together, rather it has a decorative function and is used in particular when used for a necklace to fasten a clasp. The end sleeves can be attached to the cord in different ways, for example by gluing or soldering; It is of particular advantage compared to the fastening options for silk cords that the sleeves can also be fastened by clamping, riveting or pinning, without the cohesion of the Endangering cord. It is therefore also possible to remove the sleeves as required without destroying the cord.

Entsprechendes gilt für das Befestigen von dekorativen Elementen an anderen Stellen der Kordel: Hier ist nunmehr die Möglichkeit gegeben, dekorative Elemente nach Wahl lose auf die Kordel aufzureihen oder auch festzuklemmen. In beiden Fällen erweisen sich die Metallfasern als erheblich widerstandsfähiger als Fasern aus Seide; die Gefahr einer Verletzung der Metallfasern ist so gering, dass über Jahre hinweg mit einem einwandfreien Aussehen der Kordel gerechnet werden kann.The same applies to the fastening of decorative elements at other points on the cord: Here there is now the possibility of loosely stringing decorative elements of your choice onto the cord or of clamping them. In both cases, the metal fibers prove to be considerably more resistant than silk fibers; The risk of injury to the metal fibers is so low that the cord can be expected to look flawless over the years.

Die Oberflächenbeschaffenheit und Geschmeidigkeit einer erfindungsgemäßen Kordel kann durch eine Wärmebehandlung ausserordentlich positiv beeinflußt werden. Fühlt sich beispielsweise eine aus korrosionsbeständigem Stahl hergestellte Kordel nach dem Flechten u.U. noch etwas rauh an, so kann diese Rauhigkeit durch eine Wärmebehandlung vollständig zum Verschwinden gebracht werden. Die Kordel fühlt sich nach einer solchen Wärmebehandlung ausserordentlich glatt, symphatisch und geschmeidig an und erhält einen matten Glanz, der an Seidenglanz erinnert und ausserordentlich gut mit schmückenden Elementen aus Edelmetall harmoniert. Eine solche Kordel fühlt sich ähnlich an wie eine Seidenkordel, ohne deren eingangs genannte Nachteile aufzuweisen.The surface quality and suppleness of a cord according to the invention can be extremely positively influenced by heat treatment. For example, if a cord made of corrosion-resistant steel may feel a little rough after braiding, this roughness can be completely eliminated by heat treatment. After such a heat treatment, the cord feels extraordinarily smooth, sympathetic and supple and receives a matt sheen that is reminiscent of a silk sheen and harmonises extraordinarily well with decorative elements made of precious metal. Such a cord feels similar to a silk cord, without having the disadvantages mentioned above.

Die Wärmebehandlung kann einfach dadurch erfolgen, dass man die Kordel nach dem Verlöten ihrer Enden durch eine offene Flamme hindurchführt. Durch Wechselwirkung mit den Flammengasen und mit der Luft kann sich die Farbgebung der Oberfläche der Kordel ändern und sie tut das bei Kordeln aus korrosionsbeständigem Stahl auch in sehr vorteilhafter und ansprechender Weise. Die Wärmebehandlung kann ausser in Luft auch in anderen reaktiven Gasen oder auch unter Schutzgas durchgeführt werden, wodurch sich verschiebliche Farbgebungen der Kordeloberfläche erreichen lassen.The heat treatment can be carried out simply by passing the cord through an open flame after the ends have been soldered. Interaction with the flame gases and with the air can change the color of the surface of the cord, and it does so in a very advantageous and appealing way for cords made of corrosion-resistant steel. In addition to air, the heat treatment can also be carried out in other reactive gases or under protective gas, which means that the colors of the cord surface can be shifted.

Die Wärmebehandlung kann nicht nur zum Glätten der Kordel und zur farblichen Gestaltung ihrer Oberfläche benutzt werden, sondern auch dazu, Spannungen abzubauen, die durch den Flechtvorgang in der Kordel vorhanden sind. Ohne ein solches Spannungsfreiglühen würde sich eine erfindungsgemäße Kordel nach dem Verflechten und Verlöten ihrer Enden dadurch zu entspannen suchen, dass sie sich etwas zurückdreht, sobald sie aus der Spannvorrichtung entnommen wird, in welcher man sie bis zum Verlöten ihrer Enden hält; diese selbsttätige Entspannung geht mit einer Lockerung und einer geringen Durchmesservergrößerung der Kordel einher. Dieses selbsttätige Entspannen der Kordel kann man durch ein Spannungsfreiglühen ganz oder teilweise verhindern und dadurch beeinflussen, wie fest oder flexibel die Kordel letztendlich wird. Zu diesem Zweck hält man die Kordel während des Spannungsfreiglühens an ihren Enden fest eingespannt und gestreckt und stabilisiert die Form der Kordel in dieser Lage durch die Wärmebehandlung. Je fester die Kordel werden soll, umso stärker tordiert spannt man sie vor dem Spannungsfreiglühen ein.The heat treatment can be used not only to smooth the cord and to color its surface, but also to relieve tension that is present in the cord as a result of the braiding process. Without such stress relief annealing, a cord according to the invention would try to relax after the braiding and soldering of its ends by turning back a little as soon as it is removed from the tensioning device in which it is held until the ends are soldered; this automatic relaxation is accompanied by loosening and a slight increase in the diameter of the cord. This automatic relaxation of the cord can be completely or partially prevented by relieving tension and thereby influencing how firm or flexible the cord ultimately becomes. For this purpose, the cords are firmly clamped and stretched at their ends during the stress relief annealing and the shape of the cord is stabilized in this position by the heat treatment. The tighter the cord should be, the more twisted it is to be clamped before the stress relief annealing.

Es gelingt auf diese Weise, Kordeln herzustellen, die in ihrem Glanz und in ihrer Flexibilität Seidenkordeln vergleichbar sind, den Seidenkordeln aber weit überlegen sind, wenn es um die Haltbarkeit, um die Beständigkeit, und um die Möglichkeiten der Befestigung von schmückenden Elementen geht. Ein weiterer Vorteil liegt daran, dass eine erfindungsgemäße Kordel nicht so leicht verschmutzt und nach Bedarf wiederholt und ohne Schwierigkeiten gereinigt werden kann, am besten in einem Ultraschallbad; wiederholte Reinigungsvorgänge beeinträchtigen weder die Haltbarkeit noch das Aussehen der Kordel. Ein weiterer Vorteil der erfindungsgemäßen Kordel liegt darin, dass sie spezifisch schwerer ist als eine Seidenkordel. Im Hinblick auf die Verwendung für Schmuckzwecke ist dies ein nicht zu unterschätzender Vorteil, denn die im Vergleich zu einer Seidenkordel schwerere Ausführung vermittelt dem Träger des Schmucks eher das Gefühl von Hochwertigkeit, und das macht die neue Kordel im Gegensatz zur Seidenkordel auch geeignet für die Verwendung für wirklich kostbaren, hochwertigen Schmuck. Ausserdem bewirkt das höhere spezifische Gewicht, dass eine erfindungsgemäße Kordel, insbesondere bei Verwendung für ein Collier, sich dem Körper der Person, die das Schmuckstück trägt, harmonischer anschmiegt.In this way it is possible to produce cords that are comparable in their gloss and flexibility to silk cords, but are far superior to silk cords when it comes to durability, durability and the possibility of attaching decorative elements. Another advantage is that a cord according to the invention is not so easily soiled and can be repeated as required and cleaned without difficulty, ideally in an ultrasonic bath; Repeated cleaning processes do not affect the durability or the appearance of the cord. Another advantage of the cord according to the invention is that it is specifically heavier than a silk cord. With regard to the use for jewelry purposes, this is an advantage that should not be underestimated, because the heavier design compared to a silk cord gives the wearer of the jewelry a feeling of high quality, and this is what makes the new cord unlike Silk cord also suitable for use for really precious, high quality jewelry. In addition, the higher specific weight means that a cord according to the invention, particularly when used for a necklace, conforms more harmoniously to the body of the person wearing the piece of jewelry.

Nachfolgend wird noch ein detailliertes Ausführungsbeispiel für die Herstellung einer erfindungsgemäßen Kordel angegebenen.A detailed exemplary embodiment for the production of a cord according to the invention is given below.

Für die Herstellung der Kordel geht man aus von endlosen Fasern aus einem korrosionsbeständigen Stahl. Besonders geeignet ist ein Chrom-Nickel-Molybdän-Stahl mit der Merkstoffnummer 1.4404 nach DIN. Die Metallfasern sind im Querschnitt rund mit einem Durchmesser von 12 µm. Aus Garn, welches 275 dieser Metallfasern enthält, werden zweifach gezwirnte Metallfäden hergestellt, wobei das Verzwirnen mit 200 Drehungen pro laufenden Meter erfolgt. Die so hergestellten Metallfäden enthalten also 550 Fasern. Zwei Gruppen solcher Metallfäden werden nun zu einer Kordel verflochten. Nimmt man für jede Gruppe 30 verzwirnte Fäden, erhält man eine Kordel mit einem Durchmesser von ungefähr 2,7 mm. Für dickere oder dünnere Kordeln nimmt man entsprechend mehr oder weniger Fäden. Die Gruppen zu je 30 Fäden werden mit ungefähr 40 Umdrehungen (Rechts- und Linksdrehungen zusammengenommen) pro laufenden Meter der Kordel verflochten.The cord is made from endless fibers made of corrosion-resistant steel. A chrome-nickel-molybdenum steel with the grade 1.4404 according to DIN is particularly suitable. The cross section of the metal fibers is round with a diameter of 12 µm. Double-twisted metal threads are produced from yarn containing 275 of these metal fibers, the twisting being carried out at 200 turns per running meter. The metal threads thus produced contain 550 fibers. Two groups of such metal threads are now intertwined into a cord. If you take 30 twisted threads for each group, you get a cord with a diameter of approximately 2.7 mm. For thicker or thinner cords, more or fewer threads are used accordingly. The groups of 30 threads are intertwined with approximately 40 turns (right and left turns taken together) per running meter of the cord.

Wenn die Kordel fertiggeflochten ist, werden ihre Enden auf einer Länge von ungefähr 1 bis 2 cm mit Silberhartlot verlötet, während die Kordel straff und unter Torsion in einer Einspannvorrichtung gehalten wird. Beim Verlöten wird darauf geachtet, dass das Silberhartlot über den ganzen Querschnitt in die Kordel eindringt. Soweit nicht schon geschehen, wird nun durch Verdrehen der beiden an den Enden der Kordel angreifenden Halterungen der Einspannvorrichtung gegeneinander die gewünschte Festigkeit bzw. Flexibilität der Kordel eingestellt und die Kordel dann in gestrecktem Zustand einer Wärmebehandlung unterzogen, dies geschieht mittels der offenen Flamme eines Gasbrenners, welche an der Kordel entlanggeführt wird. Durch die Wärmebehandlung wird die Kordel spannungsfrei geglüht und zugleich wird sie oberflächlich geglättet und erhält einen seidigen, matten Glanz. Die Wärmebehandlung kann natürlich auch in einem Ofen durchgeführt werden und kann anstatt der Luft auch unter Schutzgas oder unter einem anderen Reaktionsgas erfolgen, wenn man eine Farbgebung der Oberfläche erreichen will.When the cord is fully braided, its ends are soldered about 1 to 2 cm in length with silver braze, while the cord is taut and under torsion is held in a jig. When soldering, care is taken that the silver hard solder penetrates into the cord over the entire cross-section. If not already done, the desired strength or flexibility of the cord is set by rotating the two brackets of the clamping device that engage the ends of the cord and the cord is then subjected to a heat treatment in the stretched state, this is done by means of the open flame of a gas burner, which is carried along the cord. Due to the heat treatment, the cord is annealed without tension and at the same time it is smoothed on the surface and gets a silky, matt shine. The heat treatment can of course also be carried out in an oven and, instead of the air, can also be carried out under a protective gas or under another reaction gas if one wishes to color the surface.

Nach der Wärmebehandlung wird die Kordel aus der Einspannvorrichtung entnommen und kann dann zu einem Schmuckstück weiterverarbeitet werden.After the heat treatment, the cord is removed from the clamping device and can then be further processed into a piece of jewelry.

Die beigefügte Zeichnung zeigt eine solche Kordel in einer schematischen Ansicht. An dem einen Ende 1 ist der Abschnitt angedeutet, welcher mit einem Silberhartlot gegetränkt ist. Am gegenüberliegenden Ende ist über den mit dem Silberlot getränkten Abschnitt eine Hülse 2 aufgeschoben, welche in der Regel aus einem Edelmetall bestehen wird und mit der Kordel vernietet oder verstiftet ist. Da die Kordel aus Metallfasern besteht und an ihrem Ende mit einem Silberhartlot getränkt ist, kann sie ohne Gefahr eines teilweisen Auflösens der Kordel an den Enden quer durchbohrt werden um einen Stift oder Niet für die Befestigung der Hülse 2 aufzunehmen.The attached drawing shows such a cord in a schematic view. At one end 1 the section is indicated, which ge with a silver hard solder is soaked. At the opposite end, a sleeve 2 is slid over the section impregnated with the silver solder, which will generally consist of a noble metal and is riveted or pinned to the cord. Since the cord consists of metal fibers and is impregnated with a silver hard solder at its end, it can be pierced transversely at the ends without the risk of partial loosening of the cord to accommodate a pin or rivet for fastening the sleeve 2.

Claims (11)

1. Kordel für Schmuckzwecke, insbesondere für Colliers, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie aus endlosen, korrosionsbeständigen Metallfasern mit einem Durchmesser von nicht mehr als 20 um besteht.1. Cord for jewelry purposes, especially for necklaces, characterized in that it consists of endless, corrosion-resistant metal fibers with a diameter of not more than 20 µm. 2. Kordel nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der Durchmesser der Metallfasern zwischen 8 um und 15 µm liegt.2. Cord according to claim 1, characterized in that the diameter of the metal fibers is between 8 microns and 15 microns. 3. Kordel nach Anspruch 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Kordel aus gezwirnten Metallfäden besteht, die aus den Metallfasern gebildet sind.3. Cord according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the cord consists of twisted metal threads which are formed from the metal fibers. 4. Kordel nach Anspruch 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Metallfäden zweifach gezwirnt sind.4. Cord according to claim 3, characterized in that the metal threads are twisted twice. 5. Kordel nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Metallfasern aus korrosionsbeständigem Stahl, insbesondere aus einem Chrom-Nickel-Stahl bestehen.5. Cord according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the metal fibers corrosion-resistant steel, in particular made of a chrome-nickel steel. 6. Kordel nach einem der vorstehenden Ansprüche, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie an ihren Enden verlötet ist.6. Cord according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is soldered at its ends. 7. Verfahren zum Herstellen einer Kordel für Schmuckzwecke durch Verflechten von zwei gegeneinander geführten Fadengruppen, deren Fäden aus Metallfasern bestehende Zwirnsfäden sind, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Enden der Kordel nach dem Verflechten verlötet werden, während die Kordel straff und unter Torsion gehalten wird.7. A method of producing a cord for jewelry purposes by intertwining two groups of threads, the threads of which consist of metal fibers, are threads, characterized in that the ends of the cord are brazed after the interlacing, while the cord is held taut and under torsion. 8. Verfahren nach Anspruch 7, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Kordel nach dem Verlöten ihrer Enden einer Wärmebehandlung unterzogen wird.8. The method according to claim 7, characterized in that the cord is subjected to a heat treatment after the soldering of its ends. 9. Verfahren nach Anspruch 8, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Wärmebehandlung in einer reaktiven Atmosphäre durchgeführt wird.9. The method according to claim 8, characterized in that the heat treatment is carried out in a reactive atmosphere. 10. Verfahren nach Anspruch 8 oder 9, dadurch ge-- kennzeichnet, dass die Wärmebehandlung ein Spannungsfreiglühen ist.10. The method according to claim 8 or 9, characterized in that the heat treatment is a stress relief annealing. 11. Verfahren nach Anspruch 10, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Spannungsfreiglühen durchgeführt wird, während die Kordel gestreckt und an ihren Enden fest eingespannt ist.11. The method according to claim 10, characterized in that the stress relief annealing is carried out while the cord is stretched and firmly clamped at its ends.
EP19860107516 1985-06-03 1986-06-03 String for jewellery Expired EP0204313B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE19853519844 DE3519844A1 (en) 1985-06-03 1985-06-03 Cord for jewellery purposes
DE3519844 1985-06-03

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EP0204313A2 true EP0204313A2 (en) 1986-12-10
EP0204313A3 EP0204313A3 (en) 1987-04-29
EP0204313B1 EP0204313B1 (en) 1989-05-17

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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1988004146A1 (en) * 1986-12-03 1988-06-16 Braeuer Dieter Paul Twisted wire and strip for decorative purposes
EP0500497A1 (en) * 1991-02-20 1992-08-26 Gösta-Christian Sperling Annular connectable ornament carrier
WO2000040111A1 (en) * 1998-12-30 2000-07-13 Golay - Buchel Et Cie S.A. Maintenance-free necklace

Families Citing this family (4)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2613194B1 (en) * 1987-04-06 1992-09-04 Kanno Kiyohiro PARURE DEVICE, PARTICULARLY FOR NECKLACES
DE4317210C2 (en) * 1993-05-21 1998-10-15 Norbert Muerrle Semi-finished product for the production of jewelry and process for its processing
JP2578167Y2 (en) * 1993-06-30 1998-08-06 安彦 殿川 Decorative wire
DE9408040U1 (en) * 1994-05-14 1994-11-10 Haaga, Bernhard, 71229 Leonberg Jewelry chain element

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FR658462A (en) * 1928-08-01 1929-06-05 Application of flexible wire rope to jewelry
CH205277A (en) * 1938-06-04 1939-06-15 Nationale De Spiraux S A Fab Stretch bracelet.
FR2009571A1 (en) * 1968-05-29 1970-02-06 Dunlop Co Ltd
FR2505629A1 (en) * 1981-05-18 1982-11-19 Lasbleiz Fournier Vitiello Bracelet made from stainless steel cable - has cable completely covered by bands of precious metal twisted round it

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DE1724602U (en) * 1955-12-20 1956-06-21 Wilhelm Sternal NECK JEWELRY TO BE WEARED IN THE WAY OF A TIE
FR1595320A (en) * 1968-12-18 1970-06-08
GB1601714A (en) * 1978-02-15 1981-11-04 Johnson Matthey Co Ltd Fabricating wire

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR658462A (en) * 1928-08-01 1929-06-05 Application of flexible wire rope to jewelry
CH205277A (en) * 1938-06-04 1939-06-15 Nationale De Spiraux S A Fab Stretch bracelet.
FR2009571A1 (en) * 1968-05-29 1970-02-06 Dunlop Co Ltd
FR2505629A1 (en) * 1981-05-18 1982-11-19 Lasbleiz Fournier Vitiello Bracelet made from stainless steel cable - has cable completely covered by bands of precious metal twisted round it

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1988004146A1 (en) * 1986-12-03 1988-06-16 Braeuer Dieter Paul Twisted wire and strip for decorative purposes
EP0500497A1 (en) * 1991-02-20 1992-08-26 Gösta-Christian Sperling Annular connectable ornament carrier
WO2000040111A1 (en) * 1998-12-30 2000-07-13 Golay - Buchel Et Cie S.A. Maintenance-free necklace

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP0204313B1 (en) 1989-05-17
EP0204313A3 (en) 1987-04-29
DE3519844A1 (en) 1986-12-04
DE3663325D1 (en) 1989-06-22

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