CN114173755A - 油性化妆品 - Google Patents
油性化妆品 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN114173755A CN114173755A CN202080053938.3A CN202080053938A CN114173755A CN 114173755 A CN114173755 A CN 114173755A CN 202080053938 A CN202080053938 A CN 202080053938A CN 114173755 A CN114173755 A CN 114173755A
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- cosmetic
- pigment
- oil
- water
- red
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 104
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 66
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 57
- 239000002775 capsule Substances 0.000 claims description 20
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 12
- 229930006000 Sucrose Natural products 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000005720 sucrose Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- CZMRCDWAGMRECN-UGDNZRGBSA-N Sucrose Chemical compound O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@@]1(CO)O[C@@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1 CZMRCDWAGMRECN-UGDNZRGBSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N D-Glucitol Natural products OC[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N D-glucitol Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
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- 239000005715 Fructose Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- RFSUNEUAIZKAJO-ARQDHWQXSA-N Fructose Chemical compound OC[C@H]1O[C@](O)(CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O RFSUNEUAIZKAJO-ARQDHWQXSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- TVXBFESIOXBWNM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Xylitol Natural products OCCC(O)C(O)C(O)CCO TVXBFESIOXBWNM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
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- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 5
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- IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O IPCSVZSSVZVIGE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
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- 239000006224 matting agent Substances 0.000 description 4
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- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 description 4
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- 229940114072 12-hydroxystearic acid Drugs 0.000 description 2
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- LQJBNNIYVWPHFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 20:1omega9c fatty acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O LQJBNNIYVWPHFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- ZQXRINMCMHCYBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-(2-ethylhexoxy)-4-oxobutanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCC(CC)COC(=O)CCC(O)=O ZQXRINMCMHCYBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- QSBYPNXLFMSGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 9-Heptadecensaeure Natural products CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O QSBYPNXLFMSGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- SRBFZHDQGSBBOR-IOVATXLUSA-N D-xylopyranose Chemical compound O[C@@H]1COC(O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O SRBFZHDQGSBBOR-IOVATXLUSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- 241000196324 Embryophyta Species 0.000 description 2
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- 239000004166 Lanolin Substances 0.000 description 2
- OXPCWUWUWIWSGI-MSUUIHNZSA-N Lauryl oleate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC OXPCWUWUWIWSGI-MSUUIHNZSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 241001465754 Metazoa Species 0.000 description 2
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Abstract
本发明的目的在于，提供一种油性化妆品，其能够通过在期望的时机轻轻地涂擦化妆品的涂膜而容易地改变色调，并且发挥良好的磨砂效果或按摩效果。本发明为一种油性化妆品，其特征在于，其含有：(a)包含颜料且颜料的外观颜色的一部分或全部被遮蔽的颗粒、和(b)粒径为50～600μm的水溶性磨砂剂，(b)水溶性磨砂剂的配合量相对于化妆品总量为2～20质量％，并且，(b)与(a)的配合比率[(b)/(a)]为0.5以上且小于2.5。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及一种油性化妆品，其能够通过在将化妆品涂布到皮肤上之后的期望时机对涂膜施加较轻的摩擦力而改变色调，并且，得到良好的磨砂效果。
背景技术
近年来，对于化妆品、特别是彩妆化妆品而言，不仅涂布于皮肤时的涂膜显色良好这一点，化妆品本身的外观颜色的新颖性和用途的特殊化也已经成为商品价值的重要要素。
例如，配合有将颜料等色料的一部分或全部遮蔽的颗粒而成的化妆品由于可通过剥离其遮蔽而露出内部的色料，因此能够在涂布时或涂布后改变色调。
专利文献1记载了：将油性的内包物用不溶于该内包物的软质树脂所形成的壳(胶囊膜)被覆而成的软质树脂胶囊、和配合了该软质树脂胶囊的彩妆化妆品。上述软质树脂胶囊是包含含有一种或两种以上的选自着色颜料、有色珠光颜料和油溶性染料中的色料及油分的内包物、以及被覆该内包物的壳(胶囊膜)的压缩崩解性的胶囊。就专利文献1中记载的化妆品而言，在将化妆品涂布于皮肤后，通过以超过上述胶囊的耐压(破坏)强度的力进行摩擦，从而壳(胶囊膜)被破坏，所内包的颜料等色料被放出。其结果是，能够改变化妆涂膜的色调。但是，为了改变色调，需要在皮肤上以较大的力进行涂擦，另外被破坏的胶囊会残留在皮肤上，因此有时会对化妆涂膜带来不良影响。
鉴于专利文献1的上述课题，专利文献2记载了一种即使不以较大的力进行涂擦也能够改变涂膜的色调的化妆品。专利文献2的油包水型化妆品在内水相中含有包含非着色颜料以及角叉菜和/或黄原胶的软聚集颗粒，仅通过涂布该化妆品，软聚集颗粒就会崩解、显色。其结果是，形成与原来的外观颜色色调不同的化妆涂膜。
另外，专利文献3公开了一种化妆品，其配合了包含大量的紫外线散射剂和颜料的多层型胶囊。将该化妆品涂布于皮肤时，多层型胶囊崩解，被露出的颜料的外观颜色可以缓和由大量的紫外线散射剂引起的白色度。但是，专利文献2和3中记载的化妆品均是在涂布于皮肤时色调发生变化的化妆品，并非在涂布后的任意时机改变色调。
现有技术文献
专利文献
专利文献1：日本昭63-196505号公报
专利文献2：日本特开2011-225563号公报
专利文献3：日本特表2017-515864号公报
发明内容
发明要解决的问题
本发明的课题在于，提供一种化妆品，其涂布于皮肤时色调基本上不变，但是能够容易地使涂布后的化妆涂膜的色调在任意时机发生改变。
用于解决问题的方案
本发明人等为了解决上述课题反复进行了深入研究，结果发现，通过将包含颜料且该颜料的外观颜色的一部分或全部被遮蔽的颗粒与水溶性的磨砂剂组合并配合、并且使该磨砂剂的粒径和配合量在规定的范围内，从而仅通过轻轻地涂擦涂布后的化妆涂膜或仅轻轻地擦拭形成有化妆涂膜的皮肤，则被遮蔽的颜料的外观颜色露出、色调发生变化，从而完成了本发明。
即，本发明提供一种油性化妆品，其特征在于，其含有：
(a)包含颜料且颜料的外观颜色的一部分或全部被遮蔽的颗粒、和
(b)粒径为50～600μm的水溶性磨砂剂，
(b)水溶性磨砂剂的配合量相对于化妆品总量为2～20质量％，并且，(b)水溶性磨砂剂与(a)包含颜料的颗粒的配合比率[(b)/(a)]为0.5以上且小于2.5。
发明的效果
本发明的油性化妆品中若配合包含与化妆品色相不同的颜料的颗粒，则可以在实施化妆后的任意时机仅通过轻轻地涂擦或擦拭而改变色调，具有振奋使用者的精神的效果。另外，若配合包含与油性化妆品同色系的(色相相近的)颜料的颗粒，则能够通过轻轻地摩擦因经时而褪色的化妆涂膜而再次获得鲜艳的显色，能够简便地补妆。
另一方面，本发明的油性化妆品含有具有合适粒径的磨砂剂，因此在化妆品制造工序中不易产生颗粒被压碎的现象，在改变色调的同时，还能够一并感受到良好的磨砂效果、按摩效果。另外，通过使用水溶性的物质作为磨砂剂，从而磨砂剂不会在皮肤上残留，因此使用感也优异。
具体实施方式
本发明的油性化妆品(以下也简称为“化妆品”)含有(a)包含颜料的颗粒和(b)粒径为50～600μm的水溶性磨砂剂作为必需成分。
以下对构成本发明的化妆品的各成分进行详述。
＜(a)包含颜料的颗粒＞
作为本发明的化妆品中配合的(a)包含颜料的颗粒(以下有时简称为“(a)成分”)，只要是化妆品中通常使用的颜料的外观颜色的一部分或全部被遮蔽的颗粒，则可以为任意形态。作为例子，可列举内包颜料的多层型胶囊颗粒、使颜料与其它成分一体化而成的聚集颗粒等。其中，从容易调节颜料自颗粒的放出的观点出发，优选使用内包颜料的多层型胶囊颗粒。
内包颜料的多层型胶囊颗粒具有包含内部层和1个或多个外部层的结构。内部层中内包红色无机颜料、黄色无机颜料等色调颜料作为必需成分，以聚合物为母材的外部层被覆内部层。以聚合物为母材的外部层可以进一步被包含功能性颜料的层被覆。以聚合物为母材的外部层和包含功能性颜料(无机粉末)的层可以以任一顺序进行被覆，分别可以为单层或多层。内部层和外部层中可任选地包含无机粉末。
作为成为母材的聚合物，只要是化妆品中通常使用者就没有特别限定，可列举例如聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯等(甲基)丙烯酸类树脂、尼龙、聚酯、聚乙烯、聚苯乙烯、聚氨基甲酸酯、有机硅树脂、纤维素等有机系聚合物。
本发明中的“色调颜料”只要是具有改变化妆品的色调的功能者就没有特别限定。可列举通常被称为“着色颜料”的颜料，例如红色氧化铁、氧化铁/氧化钛烧结物、镉红、钼红等红色无机颜料以及黄色氧化铁、氧化铈、氧化钒铋黄、铬黄、镉黄等黄色无机颜料等。
本发明中的“功能性颜料”不仅包括通常被称为功能性颜料的氮化硼等，还包括上述“着色颜料”以外的颜料，例如氧化钛和氧化锌等白色颜料、滑石、云母和二氧化硅等体质颜料等。
作为市售制品，可列举Magicolor(注册商标)(Biogenic Co.,Ltd.制)、Sugarcapsule Magic SP Series(大东化成工业公司制)、TagraCap(商标)(タグラバイオテクノロジー公司制)和MicroBeads(商标)(サルボナテクノロジーズ公司制)。
内包颜料的多层型胶囊颗粒例如可如下制造：如美国专利公开第2011/0165208号A1公报(对应的日本特表2011-529104号公报)记载的那样，将色调颜料、增塑剂和聚合物在第1溶剂中混合均匀而制备第1混合溶液，对制备的溶液进行喷雾干燥而形成色调颜料由聚合物被覆的核颗粒，将形成的核颗粒和功能性颜料在第2溶剂中混合均匀而制备第2混合溶液，对第2混合溶液进行喷雾干燥而生成在核颗粒的外部形成有功能性颜料的涂布层的多层型胶囊颗粒。
多层型胶囊颗粒中，多层是指2层或3层、或3层以上，优选为由内包颜料的内部层和以聚合物为母材的外部层构成的2层结构、或者内包颜料的内部层和以聚合物为母材的外部层进一步由包含功能性颜料的层被覆的3层结构。
多层型胶囊颗粒的形状除了可为球形状、方形状、椭圆形状等以外，还可以为不定形，形状没有限制。
本发明的(a)成分可以以原状态直接使用，进而也可以用通常所用的疏水化处理剂对其表面实施疏水化处理后使用。作为疏水化表面处理，没有特别限制，可列举例如有机硅处理(利用下述物质的处理：甲基氢聚硅氧烷、二甲基聚硅氧烷、甲基苯基聚硅氧烷等硅油；甲基三甲氧基硅烷、乙基三甲氧基硅烷、己基三甲氧基硅烷、辛基三甲氧基硅烷等烷基硅烷；三氟甲基乙基三甲氧基硅烷、十七氟癸基三甲氧基硅烷等氟烷基硅烷等)、脂肪酸处理(利用下述物质的处理：棕榈酸、异硬脂酸、硬脂酸、月桂酸、肉豆蔻酸、山萮酸、油酸、松香酸、12-羟基硬脂酸等)、脂肪酸皂处理(利用硬脂酸铝、硬脂酸钙等的处理)、脂肪酸酯处理(利用下述物质的处理：糊精脂肪酸酯、胆固醇脂肪酸酯、蔗糖脂肪酸酯、淀粉脂肪酸酯等)等。这些疏水化处理可以按照常规方法来进行。
本发明的(a)成分的粒径小于300μm，优选为280μm以下，更优选为250μm以下，进一步优选为150μm以下，进一步优选为100μm以下，最优选为60μm以下。在此，粒径是指数均粒径。粒径为300μm以上的情况下，有化妆品的使用触感差的倾向。
本发明的化妆品中的(a)成分的配合量只要为涂布面中足已达成期望的视觉效果的量则没有特别限定。例如，相对于化妆品总量为0.1～10质量％，优选为0.5～9.0质量％，进一步优选为1.0～8.0质量％。若配合量小于0.1质量％，则难以得到色调的变化，若超过10质量％，则有使用性变差的倾向。
＜(b)粒径为50～600μm的水溶性磨砂剂＞
作为本发明的化妆品中配合的(b)水溶性磨砂剂(以下有时简称为“(b)成分”)，只要是水溶性且粒径为50～600μm的粉末就没有特别限定。从对皮肤的刺激少、安全性高(即使进入嘴巴也不会产生问题)的观点出发，优选使用包含糖类的粉末。作为糖类，可使用单糖、多糖、糖醇等。
本发明中的“水溶性”是指：在20℃的水中的溶解度至少为50g/100mL、优选为100g/100mL以上、更优选为150g/100mL以上。
作为单糖，可列举葡萄糖、果糖、木糖、甘露糖、半乳糖等，作为多糖，可列举蔗糖、海藻糖、乳糖、麦芽糖、纤维素等。
作为糖醇，可列举山梨糖醇、麦芽糖醇、木糖醇、甘露糖醇、乳糖醇、赤藓糖醇等。
作为本发明的(b)成分，优选选自由果糖、蔗糖、乳糖醇、木糖醇和山梨糖醇组成的组。特别优选为蔗糖。
本发明的化妆品中的(b)成分的配合量相对于化妆品总量为2～20质量％，优选设为2～10质量％。若配合量小于2质量％，则有如下倾向：作为磨砂剂的刺激不足，难以感觉到按摩效果，而且也难以得到由较轻的摩擦带来的色调变化。配合超过20质量％时，在制造化妆品时会产生(a)包含颜料的颗粒被压碎的问题。
本发明的化妆品中的(b)成分与(a)成分的配合比率(质量比)为(b)/(a)＝0.5以上且小于2.5，更优选为0.5以上且小于2.0。从涂布后(a)成分容易被压碎和制造化妆品时(a)成分不易被压碎的观点出发，优选将(b)/(a)设为1.5以下，更优选为1.25以下，进一步优选为1.0以下。
本发明的化妆品中，除了上述配合成分以外，可以在不损害本发明的效果的范围内根据需要配合油分、色料、油溶性皮膜剂、表面活性剂、低级醇(乙醇等)、保湿剂、紫外线吸收剂、增稠剂、填充剂、稳定化剂、抗氧化剂、消泡剂、防腐剂、杀菌剂、pH调节剂、维生素类、血液循环促进剂、美白剂、皮肤激活剂、药效成分、来自动植物的提取物、香料等化妆品中通常使用的成分。但是不限于这些例示。
作为可配合于本发明的化妆品的油分，从通常用于化妆品的、常温(25℃)下为固体或半固体的固态油分和常温(25℃)下为液体的液态油分中选择。
作为固态油分，可列举例如：固体石蜡、微晶蜡、纯地蜡、BARECO WAX、聚乙烯蜡、硅蜡、山萮醇、硬脂醇、鲸蜡醇、鲨肝醇、巴西棕榈蜡、蜜蜡(蜂蜡)、小烛树蜡、霍霍巴蜡、羊毛脂、虫胶蜡、鲸蜡、木蜡、肉豆蔻酸、棕榈酸、硬脂酸、山萮酸、12-羟基硬脂酸、可可脂、氢化蓖麻油、氢化油、氢化棕榈油、棕榈油、氢化椰子油、聚乙烯粉末、凡士林、各种氢化动植物油脂、脂肪酸单羧酸羊毛脂醇酯等。
作为液态油分，可列举例如橄榄油、鳄梨油、山茶籽油、澳洲坚果油、月见草油、霍霍巴油、菜籽油、蛋黄油、芝麻油、蓖麻油、红花油、棉籽油、大豆油、茶籽油、米糠油、小麦胚芽油、胚芽油、花生油、葵花籽油、甜扁桃油、玉米油、龟油、貂油、杏仁油、落瓣油茶籽油、亚麻籽油、紫苏油、榧子油、日本桐油、白池花籽油、角鲨烯、角鲨烷、植物性角鲨烷、霍霍巴醇、液体石蜡、聚丁烯、氢化聚异丁烯、异硬脂酸异鲸蜡酯、乙二醇二-2-乙基己酸酯、2-乙基己酸鲸蜡酯、三羟甲基丙烷三-2-乙基己酸酯、季戊四醇四-2-乙基己酸酯、辛酸鲸蜡酯、季戊四醇四辛酸酯、三-2-庚基十一酸甘油酯、己二酸二异丁酯、癸二酸2-己基癸酯、三辛酸甘油酯、三异棕榈酸甘油酯、苹果酸二异硬脂酯、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、油酸2-辛基十二烷基酯、二甲基辛酸十六烷基酯、肉豆蔻酸2-己基癸酯、肉豆蔻酸肉豆蔻酯、肉豆蔻酸辛基十二烷基酯、棕榈酸异丙酯、棕榈酸2-乙基己酯、棕榈酸2-己基癸酯、棕榈酸2-庚基十一烷基酯、硬脂酸丁酯、硬脂酸异鲸蜡酯、油酸癸酯、油酸十二烷基酯、油酸油酯、乳酸肉豆蔻酯、乳酸鲸蜡酯、胆甾醇羟基硬脂酸酯、蓖麻油脂肪酸甲酯、琥珀酸2-乙基己酯、己二酸2-己基癸酯、己二酸二-2-庚基十一烷基酯、癸二酸二异丙酯、癸二酸二-2-乙基己酯、新戊二醇二癸酸酯、新戊二醇二辛酸酯、三-2-乙基己酸甘油酯、三肉豆蔻酸甘油酯、三羟甲基丙烷三异硬脂酸酯、三异硬脂酸二甘油酯、三2-乙基己酸甘油酯、聚二甲基硅氧烷、二甲基聚硅氧烷、甲基苯基聚硅氧烷、八甲基环四硅氧烷、十甲基环五硅氧烷、三聚甘油、油酸、妥尔油脂肪酸酯、异硬脂酸、月桂醇、油醇、异硬脂醇、辛基十二醇、甲基聚硅氧烷、甲基氢聚硅氧烷、环状聚硅氧烷、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、月桂酸己酯、邻苯二甲酸二乙酯、邻苯二甲酸二丁酯、琥珀酸二辛酯、氟改性油、三辛酸甘油酯、三丙二醇二戊酸酯、植物甾醇/辛基十二醇月桂酰谷氨酸酯等。
从涂布于皮肤时的延展性、更好地与皮肤融合的观点出发，本发明的化妆品中优选将固态油分和液态油分组合使用。
在本发明的化妆品中作为任选成分而配合的色料决定本发明的化妆品本身的外观颜色，与作为本发明的必需成分的包含颜料的颗粒((a)成分)不同。作为任选成分的色料只要是通常能够配合于化妆品中的色料就没有特别限定。作为例子，可从有机合成色素(包括焦油色素、染料、色淀、有机颜料)、天然色素和无机颜料中选择。
作为有机合成色素，可列举法定色素附表1～3中记载的色素，具体而言可列举红色2号、红色3号、红色102号、红色104号、红色105号、红色106号、黄色5号、绿色3号、蓝色1号、蓝色2号、黄色4号、红色201号、红色202号、红色203号、红色204号、红色205号、红色206号、红色207号、红色208号、红色213号、红色214号、红色215号、红色218号、红色219号、红色220号、红色221号、红色223号、红色225号、红色227号、红色230号、红色231号、红色232号、橙色201号、橙色203号、橙色204号、橙色205号、橙色206号、橙色207号、黄色201号、黄色202号、黄色203号、黄色204号、黄色205号、绿色201号、绿色202号、绿色204号、绿色205号、蓝色201号、蓝色202号、蓝色203号、蓝色204号、蓝色205号、褐色201号、紫色201号、紫色401号、黄色403号、红色401号、红色404号、红色405号、红色501号、红色502号、红色503号、红色504号、红色505号、红色226号、红色228号等。
作为天然色素，可列举β-胡萝卜素等类胡萝卜素系、类黄酮系、黄素系、醌系、卟啉系、二酮系、β花青素系的色素。
作为无机颜料，可列举氧化铁(氧化铁红(铁丹)、氧化铁黄、氧化铁黑等)、氧化铬、群青、普鲁士蓝、炭黑等着色颜料；氧化钛、氧化锌等白色颜料；云母钛、鱼鳞箔、氯氧化铋等珠光颜料等。
本说明书中的“油性化妆品”是指以油性成分和油溶性成分为主原料、可任选包含水或水溶性成分的化妆品。其中，本发明的化妆品中的“水”的配合量优选调节至作为必需成分的水溶性的磨砂剂((b)成分)不会在使用前溶解而失去磨砂效果的量。例如，本发明的化妆品中的水的配合量相对于化妆品总量优选为1质量％以下，更优选为0.5质量％以下。另外，进一步优选设为不含水的无水化妆品形态。
本发明的化妆品优选制备为固体化妆品，其硬度优选为10～70gf(克重)。特别地，在制成棒状化妆品的情况下，优选为20～60gf的硬度。这里“硬度”是指如下值：对于成型为棒状的试样，用硬度计(FUDO公司制)施加载荷(以20mm/s挤压后、释放50gf)，测定直至试样弯折为止的载荷次数而评价脆性时的值。
化妆品的硬度小于10gf时，基剂过于柔软，包含颜料的颗粒不会被粉碎，得不到充分的显色。另一方面，硬度超过70gf时，基剂过硬，使用性变差。
本发明的油性化妆品可以以具有磨砂效果或按摩效果、并且能够在任意时机享受色调变化的化妆品或准药物的形式提供。作为制品形态，设定了皮肤或毛发用的彩妆用化妆品、护肤用化妆品等，但是不限于这些。在彩妆化妆品中，特别适合以***、眼部、脸颊用的固体彩妆化妆品的形式提供，通过设为这些方式，可有效地发挥本发明的效果。
本发明的化妆品可以基于一直以来所使用的方法来制造。例如，可以通过对包含上述必需成分的配合成分进行加热搅拌混合后，进行脱气、容器填充、冷却，从而制造。
实施例
以下列举实施例进一步详细说明本发明，但是本发明不受这些实施例任何限定。配合量只要没有特别声明则以质量％来表示。
实验例1～8、比较例1～4
按照下述的表1和表2所示的配方利用常规方法制备油性化妆品。
接着，对于得到的化妆品，评价(1)颗粒((a)成分)的压碎容易性、(2)使用性(磨砂剂的刺激效果)、(3)制造时的处理容易性(制造工序中颗粒((a)成分)不易被压碎)、和(4)由涂布后的涂擦引起的色调变化。各项目的评价方法如以下所述。
(1)颗粒((a)成分)的压碎容易性
将各例的化妆品(等量)涂布于被检者的手上的与指甲同样面积的区域，形成化妆品涂膜。接着，用一定的力使手指往复而涂擦各涂膜，通过直至涂膜颜色改变为止所需的涂擦(往复)次数来进行评价。
A+：3次往复以下
A：4～6次往复
B：7～10次往复
C：11次往复以上
(2)使用性(磨砂剂的刺激效果)
通过将各例的化妆品(等量)涂布于唇部时和涂布于唇部后使唇部彼此摩擦时感觉到的粗糙感进行评价。
A：强烈感觉到
B：稍稍感觉到
C：感觉不到
(3)制造时的处理容易性(制造工序中颗粒((a)成分)被压碎的难易度)
使用通用混合装置(均质搅拌机)进行混合而制造各例的化妆品，通过该制造工序中包含颜料的颗粒((a)成分)是否被压碎、化妆品的色调是否发生变化来进行评价。
A+：完全未观察到色调变化。
A：几乎未观察到色调变化。
B：产生了微弱的色调变化，但是化妆品整体的色调未发生变化。
C：化妆品整体的色调发生了变化。
(4)由涂布后的涂擦引起的色调变化
将各例的化妆品(等量)涂布于唇部后，通过用手指涂擦或使唇部彼此摩擦而产生色调变化时的印象变化来进行评价。需要说明的是，涂擦或彼此摩擦一直实施至各例的化妆品的色调变化完成为止。
A+：唇部的外观印象显著变化。
A：唇部的外观印象有很大变化。
B：唇部的外观印象几乎没有变化。
C：唇部的外观印象完全没有变化。
需要说明的是，上述(4)“色调变化”中，对于将使用红色颜料等暖色系颜料作为“(a)包含颜料的颗粒”时色调变化的评价结果为“A+”或“A”的化妆品而言，还附带得到了血色感提高的效果。
[表1]
*1；Magicolor 103YP(Biogenic Co.，Ltd.制)
*2；蔗糖(粒径＝约300μm)
[表2]
*1；Magicolor 103YP(Biogenic Co.，Ltd.制)
*2；蔗糖(约300μm)
由表1和表2所示的结果可知，满足配合规定量(2～20质量％)的水溶性磨砂剂(b)、且(b)与(a)的配合量比率[(b)/(a)]为0.5以上且小于2.5的条件的油性化妆品(实施例1～8)在制造工序中包含颜料的颗粒(a)不会被压碎，能够良好地制造。另外确认，由于配合了规定量的磨砂剂，因此磨砂效果(或按摩效果)高，通过涂布后的涂擦(彼此摩擦)，包含颜料的颗粒(a)容易被压碎而带来色调变化。但是，配合比率[(b)/(a)]为5的比较例2中，颗粒(a)在制造过程中被压碎，未能通过涂布后的涂擦(彼此摩擦)而产生色调变化。配合比率[(b)/(a)]为2.5的比较例1虽然能够避免颗粒(a)在制造过程中被压碎这一点，但是由于磨砂剂的配合比率过高，因此涂布化妆品时颗粒被压碎，为观察到由涂布后的涂擦(彼此摩擦)带来的色调变化。未配合磨砂剂的比较例3虽然观察到了色调变化，但是得到色调变化所需要的涂擦(彼此摩擦)的次数非常多，不实用。另外，未配合包含颜料的颗粒的比较例4中，当时即使进行涂擦(彼此摩擦)也不会引起色调变化。
Claims (7)
1.一种油性化妆品，其特征在于，其含有：
(a)包含颜料且颜料的外观颜色的一部分或全部被遮蔽的颗粒、和
(b)粒径为50～600μm的水溶性磨砂剂，
所述(b)水溶性磨砂剂的配合量相对于化妆品总量为2～20质量％，并且，(b)水溶性磨砂剂与(a)包含颜料的颗粒的配合比率(质量比)[(b)/(a)]为0.5以上且小于2.5。
2.根据权利要求1所述的油性化妆品，其中，所述(a)包含颜料的颗粒为包含颜料的多层型胶囊颗粒。
3.根据权利要求2所述的油性化妆品，其中，所述包含颜料的多层型胶囊颗粒的配合量相对于化妆品总量为0.1～10质量％。
4.根据权利要求1至3中任一项所述的油性化妆品，其中，所述(b)水溶性磨砂剂为选自由果糖、蔗糖、乳糖醇、木糖醇和山梨糖醇组成的组中的至少1种。
5.根据权利要求4所述的油性化妆品，其中，所述(b)水溶性磨砂剂为蔗糖。
6.根据权利要求1至5中任一项所述的油性化妆品，其为固体化妆品。
7.根据权利要求6所述的油性化妆品，其硬度为10～70gf。
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| JPWO2021020351A1 (zh) | 2021-02-04 |
| JP7455126B2 (ja) | 2024-03-25 |
| CN114173755B (zh) | 2024-02-06 |
| WO2021020351A1 (ja) | 2021-02-04 |
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