CN114053160A

CN114053160A - Concealer and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN114053160A
Application number: CN202111475475.2A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 周慧; 邓靖文; 郑云飞; 黄茜莎
Original assignee: Shanghai Dahai Technology Development Co ltd
Current assignee: Shanghai Dahai Technology Development Co ltd
Priority date: 2021-12-06
Filing date: 2021-12-06
Publication date: 2022-02-18
Anticipated expiration: 2041-12-06
Also published as: CN114053160B

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics and provides concealer and a preparation method thereof. The concealer component provided by the invention comprises: ethylhexyl palmitate, polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, dipentaerythritol hexahydrostearate/hexastearate/hexaabietate, thickeners, silica, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, binders, sorbitan sesquiisostearate and colorants. The concealer provided by the invention has the advantages of strong concealer ability, moistening without drying, light and thin, long make-up holding time, difficulty in color change and make-up, no sensitization, no acne smothering and wide market prospect.

Description

Concealer and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to concealer and a preparation method thereof.

Background

The concealer is a daily cosmetic, can be seen as one kind of foundation make-up, and the difference lies in that concealer has better hiding power than ordinary foundation make-up, and more laminating skin, can cover defects such as spot, fine lines, black eye circle on human skin surface through the color, make human skin surface color and luster more unified, realize the effect that the face beautifies. The cosmetic looks unnatural if the concealer is too thin or too dense, and in use, different concealers are usually selected according to the skin types of individuals to make the skin healthy.

The conventional concealer is usually prepared by mixing mica, talcum powder, montmorillonite, titanium dioxide, ivory powder and the like as fillers with an emollient, an emulsifier, a stabilizer, a coloring agent and the like. For example, patent CN06726692A discloses a concealer comprising a composition a and a composition B, the composition a consisting of titanium dioxide, trimethylsiloxysilicate, polyisobutylene, beeswax, lecithin, isododecane, and a perfume; patent CN102871938A discloses a concealer, which is prepared by mixing mica powder, talcum powder, hyaluronic acid, phenyl trimethicone, silica, boron nitride, synthetic wax, ivory powder and the like.

At present, the concealer in the field contains more fillers and synthetic wax, although the covering power is higher, the concealer is heavy, the makeup effect is not lasting, and the concealer containing less fillers is more refreshing, but the covering power is not high.

Disclosure of Invention

In view of this, the invention provides a concealer and a preparation method thereof. The concealer provided by the invention has the advantages of strong concealer capability, lasting make-up effect, fine paste, light weight and fitness.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides the following technical solutions:

the concealer comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 10-15% of ethylhexyl palmitate, 8-12% of polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, 5-10% of dipentaerythritol hexahydroxystearate/hexastearate/hexaabietate, 6-12% of thickening agent, 8-10% of silica, 6-8% of diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, 3-5% of carnauba wax, 1-3% of candelilla wax, 1-2% of adhesive, 0.3-0.8% of sorbitan sesquiisostearate and 23.5-33.2% of colorant.

Preferably, the thickener comprises a dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and a dimethicone; the mass ratio of the polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer to the polydimethylsiloxane is (3-6) to (3-6).

Preferably, the colorant comprises one or more of CI77891, CI77002, CI77019, CI77492, CI77491 and CI 77499.

Preferably, when the colorant comprises CI77891, CI77002, CI77019, CI77492, CI77491 and CI77499, the mass ratio of CI77891, CI77002, CI77019, CI77492, CI77491 and CI77499 is (15-20): 0.3-0.6): 5-8): 1.5-5): 1-2): 0.1-0.4.

Preferably, the mass ratio of CI77891, CI77002, CI77019, CI77492, CI77491 and CI77499 is 16.575:0.425:5.15:3:1.2: 0.15.

Preferably, the mass ratio of CI77891, CI77002, CI77019, CI77492, CI77491 and CI77499 is 15.6:0.4:7.8:1.6:1: 0.1.

Preferably, the binder is beeswax.

The invention also provides a preparation method of the concealer of the scheme, which comprises the following steps:

carrying out melting and mixing on ethylhexyl palmitate, polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, dipentaerythritol hexahydroxystearate/hexastearate/hexaabietate, a thickening agent, diphenyl siloxyphenyl trimethicone, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, a binder and sorbitan sesquiisostearate to obtain a first mixture;

and grinding and mixing the first mixed material, the colorant and the silica to obtain the concealer.

The invention provides a concealer, which comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 10-15% of ethylhexyl palmitate, 8-12% of polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, 5-10% of dipentaerythritol hexahydroxystearate/hexastearate/hexaabietate, 6-12% of thickening agent, 8-10% of silica, 6-8% of diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, 3-5% of carnauba wax, 1-3% of candelilla wax, 1-2% of adhesive, 0.3-0.8% of sorbitan sesquiisostearate and 23.5-33.2% of colorant. The concealer provided by the invention is added with the carnauba wax and the candelilla wax, wherein the carnauba wax is high-hardness wax, has the advantages of good gloss, high smoothness and no greasiness on the surface, can enable the paste to be softened and lubricated, and the candelilla wax is a good film forming agent, can maintain the soft and moist state of skin, can prevent water vapor from permeating to decompose concealer components, and can prevent the cosmetic effect from being influenced; according to the invention, the carnauba wax and the candelilla wax are used in a matching manner, so that the concealer has the texture similar to that of mousse, the concealer is fine and compact, the upper face can be firmly attached to the skin, the concealer is durable and difficult to remove, the color rendering degree and the color saturation are high, and the concealer has strong capability of concealing.

Silica is added into the concealer, and is spherical powder, so that the concealer can absorb grease secreted by the skin, and the skin feels soft and elastic; furthermore, the thickening agent in the concealer provided by the invention is polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer and polydimethylsiloxane, and the two raw materials can endow the concealer with velvet touch, so that the concealer has velvet touch, is light, thin and smooth, is attached to skin, and has the effects of moistening without pulling out, and light, thin and thick clothes.

Furthermore, the adhesive adopted by the concealer provided by the invention is beeswax which is a natural and harmless substance, so that adverse reaction is not generated to a human body, and the beeswax contains nutrient substances required by skin, so that the moisture of the skin can be locked, the skin can be moistened, the wrinkles of the face can be relieved, and the skin can be kept smooth and elastic; the beeswax also has better stability, can not deteriorate at higher temperature, can effectively protect other chemical components in the concealer, and ensures the effect of the concealer in the process of using the concealer.

In conclusion, the concealer provided by the invention has the advantages of strong concealer capability, moistening without drying, light and thin smoothness, long make-up holding time, difficulty in color change and make-up, no sensitization and no acne, and has wide market prospect.

Detailed Description

The invention provides a concealer, which comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 10-15% of ethylhexyl palmitate, 8-12% of polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, 5-10% of dipentaerythritol hexahydroxystearate/hexastearate/hexaabietate, 6-12% of thickening agent, 8-10% of silica, 6-8% of diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, 3-5% of carnauba wax, 1-3% of candelilla wax, 1-2% of adhesive, 0.3-0.8% of sorbitan sesquiisostearate and 23.5-33.2% of colorant.

Unless otherwise specified, all the raw materials used in the concealer provided by the present invention are commercially available products.

The concealer comprises, by mass, 10-15% of ethylhexyl palmitate, and preferably 12-14%. In the present invention, the ethylhexyl palmitate is a skin conditioner.

The concealer comprises 8-12% of polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, preferably 9-11% by mass. In the present invention, the polyglycerol-2 triisostearate is a skin conditioner.

The concealer comprises, by mass, 5-10% of dipentaerythritol hexahydroxystearate/hexastearate/hexaabietate, and preferably 6-8%. In the present invention, the dipentaerythritol hexahydroxystearate/hexastearate/hexarosinate is a skin conditioning agent.

The concealer comprises, by mass, 6-12% of a thickening agent, and preferably 7-11%. In the invention, the thickening agent preferably comprises polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer and polydimethylsiloxane in a mass ratio of (3-6): 3-6), and more preferably (4-5): 4-5. In a specific embodiment of the invention, the mass fraction of the polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked polymer in the concealer is preferably 3 to 6%, more preferably 4 to 5%, and the mass fraction of the polydimethylsiloxane is preferably 3 to 6%, more preferably 4 to 5%. In the invention, the polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer and the polydimethylsiloxane are uniformly distributed in the cream, so that the concealer has velvet touch, is light, thin and smooth and is attached to the skin.

The concealer comprises 8-10% by mass of silica, preferably 8.5-9.5% by mass of silica. In the present invention, the silica is a filler, and the silica is a spherical powder, and can absorb oil and fat secreted from the skin, and give a soft and elastic feeling to the skin.

The concealer comprises 6-8% of diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, preferably 6.5-7.5% by mass. In the present invention, the diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicones are skin conditioning agents.

The concealer comprises, by mass, 3-5% of carnauba wax, and preferably 3.5-4.5%. In the invention, the carnauba (copricica acerifera) wax is thin and has small viscosity, low resin content, uniform coating, good gloss, high smoothness and no greasiness on the surface, is the hardest wax with the highest melting point in all natural waxes, and has the advantages of gloss, moisture resistance, emulsifying property and the like.

The concealer comprises, by mass, 1-3% of candelilla wax, and preferably 1.5-2.5%. In the invention, the candelilla wax is naturally extracted from the wax skin of the stem of the candelilla shrub, can increase the strength of the concealer and improve the bright texture of the product, is a good film-forming agent and maintains the soft and moist state of the skin; the candelilla wax is also an excellent hydrophobic material and can prevent water vapor from permeating, and the invention can effectively prevent water molecules from permeating to decompose and hide components and prevent cosmetic effect from being influenced by adding the candelilla wax; meanwhile, candelilla wax can absorb ultraviolet rays with wavelength of 276nm, thereby giving sunscreen effect to the concealer.

The concealer comprises 1-2% of an adhesive by mass fraction, and preferably 1.5-2.5% of the adhesive by mass fraction. In the present invention, the binder is preferably beeswax. The beewax is a natural and harmless substance, does not cause adverse reaction to a human body, contains partial nutrient substances required by the skin, can lock skin moisture, moisten the skin, relieve facial wrinkles and keep the skin smooth and elastic; the beeswax also has good stability, does not deteriorate at high temperature, can effectively protect other chemical components in the cosmetics, and can ensure the effect of the cosmetics in the process of using the cosmetics.

The concealer comprises, by mass, 0.3-0.8% of sorbitan sesquiisostearate, and preferably 0.5-0.7%. In the invention, the sorbitan sesquiisostearate is a surfactant, so that the stability of the paste can be improved.

The concealer comprises 23.5-33.2% by mass of a colorant, preferably 24-32%. In the invention, the colorant comprises one or more of CI77891, CI77002, CI77019, CI77492, CI77491 and CI 77499; when the colorant comprises CI77891, CI77002, CI77019, CI77492, CI77491 and CI77499, the mass ratio of CI77891, CI77002, CI77019, CI77492, CI77491 and CI77499 is preferably (15-20): 0.3-0.6): 5-8): 2-5): 1-2): 0.1-0.4; in a specific embodiment of the present invention, the mass ratio of CI77891, CI77002, CI77019, CI77492, CI77491 and CI77499 is preferably 16.575:0.425:5.15:3:1.2:0.15, or preferably 15.6:0.4:7.8:1.6:1: 0.1; in a specific embodiment of the invention, the mass fraction of CI77891 in the concealer is preferably 15-20%, more preferably 16.575% or 15.6%, the mass fraction of CI77002 is preferably 0.3-0.6%, more preferably 0.425% or 0.4%, the mass fraction of CI77019 is preferably 5-8%, more preferably 5.15% or 7.8%, the mass fraction of CI77492 is preferably 1.5-5%, more preferably 3% or 1.6%, the mass fraction of CI77491 is preferably 1-2%, more preferably 1.2% or 1%, and the mass fraction of CI77499 is preferably 0.1-0.4%, more preferably 0.15% or 0.1%. Concealers of different colors can be obtained by blending the colorants, in a specific embodiment of the invention, concealers of two different colors can be placed in one concealer disc, thus obtaining a two-color concealer disc.

The invention has no special requirements on the specific conditions of melting and mixing, and can melt and uniformly mix all the raw materials.

After the first mixture is obtained, preferably, CI77891, CI77002, silica, CI77019, CI77492, CI77491 and CI77499 are sequentially added into the first mixture for grinding and mixing, and preferably, after the former raw material is uniformly ground and mixed, the latter raw material is added. In the present invention, the grinding and mixing are preferably carried out under heating conditions, and the heating conditions are not particularly limited in the present invention, and the paste can be in a molten state. According to the invention, through grinding and mixing, the raw materials can be uniformly dispersed, the particle size of the paste is finer, and the color powder molecules (colorant) are closely arranged together, so that the covering power of the concealer is improved.

After grinding and mixing are finished, the obtained mixture is preferably subjected to microbial detection, and filling, packaging and warehousing are performed after the detection is qualified.

The technical solution of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the embodiments of the present invention.

Example 1

A concealer comprises the following components in percentage by mass:

15% ethylhexyl palmitate, 12% polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, 10% dipentaerythritol hexahydrostearate/hexastearate/hexaabietate, 9% thickener, 10% silica, 7% diphenylsiloxyphenylpolytrimethylsiloxane, 5% carnauba wax, 3% candelilla wax, 2% binder, 0.5% sorbitan sesquiisostearate, CI 7789116.575%, CI 770020.425%, CI 770195.15%, CI 774923%, CI 774911.2%, CI 774990.15%.

The preparation method of the concealer comprises the following steps: carrying out melting and mixing on ethylhexyl palmitate, polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, dipentaerythritol hexahydroxystearate/hexastearate/hexaabietate, a thickening agent, diphenyl siloxyphenyl trimethicone, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, an adhesive and sorbitan sesquiisostearate to obtain a first mixture, then sequentially adding CI77891, CI77002, silica, CI77019, CI77492, CI77491 and CI77499 into the first mixture for grinding and mixing, carrying out microbial detection on the obtained mixture, and filling, packaging and warehousing after the mixture is qualified; the obtained concealer is a pink cream.

Example 2

The concealer has the same mass fractions as in example 1 for the other components, and only the mass fraction of the colorant is changed as follows: CI 7789115.6%, CI 770020.4%, CI 770197.8%, CI 774921.6%, CI 774911%, CI 774990.1%; the obtained concealer is a beige ointment.

Example 3

A concealer comprises the following components in percentage by mass:

14.8% ethylhexyl palmitate, 11.2% polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, 9.7% dipentaerythritol hexahydro/hexa stearate/hexa abietate, 11.8% thickener, 9.6% silica, 7.9% diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, 4.5% carnauba wax, 2% candelilla wax, 1.3% binder, 0.7% sorbitan sesquiisostearate, CI 7789115.6%, CI 770020.4%, CI 770197.8%, CI 774921.6%, CI 774911%, CI 774990.1%.

Example 4

A concealer comprises the following components in percentage by mass:

14.5% ethylhexyl palmitate, 11.5% polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, 9.5% dipentaerythritol hexahydrostearate/hexastearate/hexaabietate, 12% thickener, 9.5% silica, 7.7% diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, 4% carnauba wax, 2% candelilla wax, 2% binder, 0.8% sorbitan sesquiisostearate, CI 7789116.575%, CI 770020.425%, CI 770195.15%, CI 774923%, CI 774911.2%, CI 774990.15%.

And (3) performance detection:

(1) the concealer prepared in examples 1 to 2 was subjected to biological testing according to the "microbial testing method" in technical standards for cosmetic safety (2015 th), and the results are shown in tables 1 to 2.

Table 1 results of microbial testing of concealer in example 1

Table 2 results of microbial testing of concealer in example 1

(2) The results of the physical and chemical tests of the rice flour concealer prepared in examples 1 to 2 and the testing methods used are shown in tables 3 to 4.

Table 3 results of physical and chemical tests of concealer in example 1

Table 4 results of physical and chemical tests of concealer in example 2

(3) Test of patch on human skin

The rice flour concealer and the beige concealer prepared in examples 1 to 2 were prepared into a two-color concealer tray, and a human skin patch experiment was performed according to the method in chapter seven of the technical standards for cosmetic safety (2015). The specific method comprises the following steps:

materials and methods

1. The test substance: double color concealer plate (Pink and beige)

2. Negative control: blank control

3. Subject: the total of 30 people, 7 men and 23 women, the age of 27-58 years, the average age of 44.07 +/-0.30, meet the volunteer selection criteria of the subjects.

4. The spot test method comprises the following steps: selecting qualified spot test equipment, placing 0.020-0.025 ml of a test object in a spot tester by a closed spot test method, externally applying hypoallergenic adhesive tape to the curved side of the forearm of the test object, removing the test object after 24h, observing skin reactions respectively at 0.5, 24 and 48 h after removal, and recording the results according to the skin reaction grading standard in technical Specification for cosmetic safety (2015 edition). The skin response grading criteria are shown in table 5.

TABLE 5 skin closed Patch test skin response grading Standard

Second, experimental results

TABLE 6 cosmetic body Patch test results

(4) Safety evaluation of human trial test on sensitive muscles and pockmarked muscles

The rice-colored concealer and the beige concealer prepared in examples 1 to 2 were prepared into a two-color concealer tray, and safety evaluation of human trial tests on sensitive muscles and pockmarked muscles was performed. The specific method comprises the following steps:

materials and methods

1. The test substance: double-color concealer disc

2. The product using method comprises the following steps: using a concealer brush or fingers to pick a proper amount of concealer to evenly spot on the place needing concealer.

3. The service cycle of the product is as follows: 4 weeks.

4. Subject: the total 32 people, the female 32 people, the male 0 people and the age of 19-45 years are all sensitive skin people, and accord with the volunteer enrollment standard of the subject.

And (3) inclusion standard: chinese females aged 18-45 years; the health of the body; the powder is used in normal times, and the daily life is easy to grow pox/acne; the skin is considered dry and sensitive, and the lactic acid stimulation fraction is more than or equal to 3; the device can be well matched with testers, and the regularity of life can be kept during the research period; the system can read and understand all contents of the informed consent and voluntarily sign the informed consent; no cosmetics, drugs and nutraceuticals were used during the test period, which had an effect on the results.

Exclusion criteria: those who use antihistamines for nearly one week or immunosuppressants for nearly one month; those who have any anti-inflammatory drug applied to the test site in approximately two months; the subject has a clinically unvulcanized inflammatory skin condition; insulin-dependent diabetic patients; patients suffering from asthma or other chronic respiratory diseases undergoing therapy; those receiving anticancer chemotherapy within approximately 6 months; patients with immunodeficiency or autoimmune disease; lactating or pregnant women; bilateral mastectomy and bilateral underarm lymphadectomy; the judgment of the test result is influenced by scars, pigments, atrophy, port wine stains, uneven complexion, folliculitis or other flaws on the skin to be tested; participation in other clinical trial investigators; those with high constitutional sensitivity; non-volunteer participants or those who cannot complete the prescribed content as required by the trial.

5. The test method comprises the following steps: more than 30 subjects with sensitive skin and easy pox/acne growth in daily life are selected according to the inclusion standard of the subjects, and the subjects can directly use the tested products according to the use characteristics and the method indicated by the label of the cosmetic products. Observing whether the skin of the part of the subject coated with the sample has adverse reaction every 1 week, and recording the result according to the skin adverse reaction grading standard in technical Specification for cosmetic safety (2015 edition) by the skin reaction judgment standard. The trial time was 4 weeks. And completed the consumer self-assessment questionnaire at week 4. The grading standards of adverse reactions on skin in human trial tests are shown in Table 7.

TABLE 7 grading Standard of adverse skin reactions for human trial test

Adverse reaction of skin	Grading
		No reaction	0
Weak erythema	1
		Erythema, infiltrates, papules	2
Erythema, edema, papules, blisters	3
		Erythema, edema, blisters	4

Second, test results

1. The results of the human trial are shown in Table 8.

TABLE 8 human trial test results

2. The consumer's self-evaluation results are shown in Table 9

TABLE 9 self-rating of subjects 4 weeks after using the two-color concealer plate

In table 9: evaluation criteria: the score 1 is "very disagreeable", the score 2 is "disagreeable", the score 3 is "general", the score 4 is "agreement", the score 5 is "very agreement", and the Top2Box indicates the proportion of people with N.gtoreq.4.

In table 9: the number of the products is counted to be 32.

According to the test results, the concealer provided by the invention has the advantages of strong concealer capacity, moistening without drying, smoothness and fitting, long make-up holding time, difficulty in oxidizing the floating powder, no sensitization and no acne, is a mild and non-irritant product, and has a wide market prospect.

The concealer prepared in examples 3 to 4 was tested in the same manner, and the results were similar to those described above.

The foregoing is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and it should be noted that, for those skilled in the art, various modifications and decorations can be made without departing from the principle of the present invention, and these modifications and decorations should also be regarded as the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. The concealer is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass: 10-15% of ethylhexyl palmitate, 8-12% of polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, 5-10% of dipentaerythritol hexahydroxystearate/hexastearate/hexaabietate, 6-12% of thickening agent, 8-10% of silica, 6-8% of diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, 3-5% of carnauba wax, 1-3% of candelilla wax, 1-2% of adhesive, 0.3-0.8% of sorbitan sesquiisostearate and 23.5-33.2% of colorant.

2. The concealer of claim 1, wherein said thickener comprises dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and dimethicone; the mass ratio of the polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross-linked polymer to the polydimethylsiloxane is (3-6) to (3-6).

3. Concealer according to claim 1, wherein the colorant comprises one or more of CI77891, CI77002, CI77019, CI77492, CI77491 and CI 77499.

4. The concealer of claim 3, wherein when the colorant comprises CI77891, CI77002, CI77019, CI77492, CI77491 and CI77499, the mass ratio of CI77891, CI77002, CI77019, CI77492, CI77491 and CI77499 is (15-20): (0.3-0.6): (5-8): (1.5-5): (1-2): (0.1-0.4).

5. The concealer of claim 4, wherein the mass ratio of CI77891, CI77002, CI77019, CI77492, CI77491 and CI77499 is 16.575:0.425: 5.15:3:1.2:0.15.

6. The concealer of claim 4, wherein the mass ratio of CI77891, CI77002, CI77019, CI77492, CI77491 and CI77499 is 15.6:0.4:7.8:1.6:1: 0.1.

7. The concealer of claim 1, wherein the binder is beeswax.

8. A method of manufacturing concealer as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising the steps of: