CN112641155A - Drawing and cutting method for female dovetail clothes - Google Patents
Drawing and cutting method for female dovetail clothes Download PDFInfo
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- CN112641155A CN112641155A CN202011582465.4A CN202011582465A CN112641155A CN 112641155 A CN112641155 A CN 112641155A CN 202011582465 A CN202011582465 A CN 202011582465A CN 112641155 A CN112641155 A CN 112641155A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
- A41H3/08—Patterns on the cloth, e.g. printed
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06H—MARKING, INSPECTING, SEAMING OR SEVERING TEXTILE MATERIALS
- D06H7/00—Apparatus or processes for cutting, or otherwise severing, specially adapted for the cutting, or otherwise severing, of textile materials
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- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
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- Y02P—CLIMATE CHANGE MITIGATION TECHNOLOGIES IN THE PRODUCTION OR PROCESSING OF GOODS
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Abstract
The invention discloses a drawing and cutting method of female dovetail clothes, which is drawn according to the size of the clothes and comprises the following steps: drawing and cutting the back cut piece, the front cut piece, the intensive side piece and the sleeve piece; wherein, the drawing of the rear garment piece comprises: drawing a neckline of the rear garment piece, a middle curve of the back of the rear garment piece, a slit of the rear garment piece, the back width of the rear garment piece, the waist section width of the rear garment piece, a rear shoulder deviation line, a rear garment piece princess dividing line and a lower garment hem structure; drawing of the front panel comprises: drawing a towel gourd collar, a long and low bevel structure of the clothes, a shoulder deviation line, an upper sleeve arch line and a front cut piece princess dividing line; the sleeve piece structure is divided into a large sleeve structure and a small sleeve structure, the sleeve body structures of the large sleeve structure and the small sleeve structure are the same, the sleeve mountain structures are different, the sleeve mountain of the large sleeve structure is a convex structure, and the sleeve mountain of the small sleeve structure is a concave structure. The front garment piece and the rear garment piece are subjected to an offset line drawing method, so that the cutting structure is simplified.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a drawing method of a dovetail garment, in particular to a drawing and cutting method of a female dovetail garment.
Background
In the traditional female dress formal dress structure drawing, a five-digit (specification) drawing method of a coat is adopted, so that the discordance of structures such as collar girth, chest girth, shoulder width, armhole, front width, back width and the like is caused, and the matching and sewing of the subsequent procedures are difficult. Moreover, the traditional structural drawing usually adopts links such as pre-making garment pieces, post-making garment pieces, sleeve making pieces, collar making and the like, has less consideration on matching among the female dovetail garment structural pieces, basically simulates the structural drawing along the traditional experience of an old master for cutting, reduces the drawing efficiency and increases the drawing and cutting difficulty.
Moreover, the dovetail suit has a great characteristic that the dovetail structure and the front and back underarm structures are cut one by one according to a traditional cutting method, so that the structural pieces are more and messy, the management is not facilitated, the number of subsequent sewing procedures is increased, and the production cost is increased.
In addition, the big small sleeve structure is still adopted to traditional swallow-tailed coat's sleeve piece structure, and the main problem that big small sleeve structure was tailor is that borrowing of structure lets, and the width of little sleeve is borrowed to big sleeve, just also causes the sleeve hill structure to borrow to let, and the drawing is complicated and fussy. The matching degree of the sleeve mountains in the armholes is not high.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a drawing and cutting method for female dovetail clothes, which solves the problem that the drawing of the traditional dovetail clothes is not coordinated and matched, and ensures that all parts of the clothes are matched with each other and the drawing efficiency is improved by drawing all the parts of the clothes according to the sizes of the clothes and drawing front and back cut pieces in a matching way.
In order to achieve the aim, the invention provides a drawing and cutting method of female dovetail clothes, which is drawn according to the size of the clothes and comprises the following steps: drawing and cutting the back cut piece, the front cut piece, the intensive side piece and the sleeve piece; wherein the drawing of the rear panel comprises: drawing a neckline of the rear garment piece, a middle curve of the back of the rear garment piece, a slit of the rear garment piece, the back width of the rear garment piece, the waist section width of the rear garment piece, a rear shoulder deviation line, a rear garment piece princess dividing line and a lower garment hem structure; drawing of the front garment piece comprises: drawing a towel gourd collar, a long and low bevel structure of the clothes, a shoulder deviation line, an upper sleeve arch line and a front cut piece princess dividing line; the sleeve piece structure is divided into a large sleeve structure and a small sleeve structure, the sleeve body structures of the large sleeve structure and the small sleeve structure are the same, the sleeve mountain structures are different, the sleeve mountain of the large sleeve structure is a convex structure, and the sleeve mountain of the small sleeve structure is a concave structure; the drawing of the gathered side panel comprises: drawing a left side seam, a right side seam, a lower armhole, a waist line and an armhole bottom dart;
the drawing of the neckline of the back garment piece comprises the following steps: drawing a rectangle abcd, wherein a long side ab is 0.664 multiplied by dc, and a wide side ad is 0.514 multiplied by bc; drawing back straight-open-leading point a on long edge ab4Drawing the left upper point a of the back collar on the broadside ad1Right upper point a of back collar2And back neck side point a3Point a1And a2For transversely-opening neck line segment aa3Is a point of1Close to point a, from point a1And a2Drawing line segments aa into rectangles abcd respectively3Perpendicular line segment a1a5And a2a6Point a5Is the left curvature point of the back collar, point a6A right curvature point of the back collar, a line segment aa of the cross-open collar30.088 × type, back cut piece straight collar line segment aa4Line segment a1a50.027 × line segment a2a6＝aa4-0.2, connecting point a with an arc3、a6、a5、a4Forming a rear neckline arc;
the drawing of the back middle curve and the back cut of the back cut comprises the following steps: drawing a back middle patch point e and a back middle chest point e on a long edge ab1Posteromedial lumbar locus e3And a back waist point f, point e being a line segment a4e1Middle point of (a), line segment ae1Line segment ae of back width and longitudinal depth3The waist joint position of the back garment piece, the line segment af is the middle-lower opening position of the back, and the line segment ae10.178X type, line segment ae30.35 × type, line segment af is No. 0.269 × number; respectively from point e1、e3And f drawing the perpendicular segment e of the long side ab1e2、e3e4And ff1Point e2Points of curvature of the middle back, point e4Point f is the posterior mid-lumbar curvature point1Is the location point of the rear vent, line segment e1e2Line segment e for back-to-middle approach3e4The back-middle-waist-joint retraction amount, line segment ff1A line segment e representing the amount of retraction of the slit in the back1e20.006X line segment e3e40.018 × type, line segment ff1Connecting points e and e with arc line segment as 0.024X type2、e4、f1Forming a back middle curve of the rear garment piece;
the drawing of back width of the back garment piece, waist section width of the back garment piece, back shoulder offset line, rear garment piece princess dividing line and lower garment hem structure comprises: from point e2、e4、f1Respectively making line segments e1e2、e3e4、ff1From the extension line to the back width point k2Back middle waist width point e5And the back waist width point f2Line segment e2k2For drawing back width, line e4e5For drawing back width, line segment f1f2For waist width and line length e of rear garment piece2k20.22 × type, line e4e50.11 × type, line segment f1f2Joining point a with straight line segment ═ 0.093 ×, type3、k2Forming a rear shoulder offset line of the rear garment piece, and connecting the rear shoulder offset line with an arc line2、e5、f2Forming a rear garment piece princess dividing line; drawing a rear-middle pendulum point f on a long edge ab3Point f3From point f to the midpoint of line fb3From the perpendicular line of the line fb to the back center width f4Line segment f3f4Line width of the central pendulum, line segment f3f40.15 × type; drawing a back lower hem point b on the wide side bc1Line segment bb1The width of the bottom edge of the lower hem of the rear garment piece and a line segment bb10.166X type, and connecting point f by arc line2、f4、b1Forming a lower hem side arc of the rear garment piece;
the integral structure of the back cut piece is composed of a line segment a4e. Arc ee2e4f1Line segment f1b and bb1Arc b1f4f2And f2e5k2Line segment k2a3Arc a3a6a5a4A surrounding structure;
the drawing of the towel gourd collar of the front cut piece comprises the following steps: drawing a front garment long point i on the long side dc, wherein the front garment long line section di is 0.313 multiplied by the number; drawing the front neck side point d on the broadside ad3Front-link width line dd3Drawing a collar length line segment d as 0.2 × type3d2Point d of2Is the front collar length point, line segment d3d2Draw line segment d with collar width of 0.098 ×2d1Point d of1Is the front collar width point, point d1At a distance greater than point d from broadside ad2Distance from wide edge ad, angle d3d2d190 degrees (the bottom line of the left and right collar pieces must form a horizontal line after being unfolded, and the horizontal line is matched and sewed with the neck pit to adapt to the structures of the garment pieces with different sizes), and a line segment d2d1Is equal to 0.08X type and is less than d2d3a is 70-2 x line segment d2d1(ii) a Connecting point d by straight line segment1And i form a collar turning line and are on a line section d1i drawing perpendicular j thereto towards the long side dc1j, line segment j1j is a width line for drawing the collar lapel, and point j1Is a front lapel locus, point j is a front lapel curvature point, line segment j1j is 0.08X type and is connected with d by an arc line1J and i form a lapel outer opening arc;
the drawing of the clothes length and lower bevel angle structure of the front cut piece comprises the following steps: drawing a line segment from point i into rectangle abcd to front waist width point i3Line segment ii3Is a basic line segment of a lower oblique angle, and is less than i3ic is 104 degrees (stabilize the modeling structure of the lower corner of the front garment piece, adapt to the garment piece structures of different models), and a line segment ii30.158 × type; in line segment ii3Drawing the center point i thereof1And drawing a perpendicular line i thereof toward the broadside ad1i2Point i1Is the front waist bottom mouth point, point i2Is the front waist bottom opening curvature point, line segment i1i2For drawing radian of bottom edge of front cut piece and line segment i1i20.006X type, connecting point i with arc line3、i2I, forming a bottom edge arc line of the front garment piece;
the shoulder offset line of the front garment piece is the same as the back shoulder offset line of the back garment piece and is a line segment a3k2；
Drawing an upper sleeve arc line and a front garment piece princess dividing line of the front garment piece, wherein the drawing comprises the following steps: drawing line segment a3k2Perpendicular bisector kk1Line segmenta3k2From the perpendicular kk1The intersection point of (A) is a rear offset point k, point k1For the point of curvature of the rear deflection, line section kk1Is 0.016X, and is connected with the point a by an arc line3、k1、k2Forming an upper sleeve hole arc line; at line segment j1i draw point j3，j1j30.02 × type, from point j3Drawing line segment to point j towards princess dividing line of rear garment piece4，∠d1j3j481 degrees (for stabilizing the modeling structure of the front garment piece pocket and adapting to the pocket structures of different sizes), and a line segment j3j40.09 × type; at line segment j3j4And ii3Draw a line segment j therebetween3j4Parallel line segment j of7j5Line segment j7j5And line segment d1i is point j7Two line segments j3j4And j7j5The distance between them is 0.027X type, line segment j7j50.087 × type; connecting point k with arc line2、j4、j5、i3Forming a front garment piece princess dividing line;
the integral structure of the front cut piece is formed by an arc line d1ji、ii2i3、i3j5j4k2And k2k1a3And line segment a3d3、d3d2And d2d1A surrounding structure;
the drawing of the sleeve body structure comprises the following steps: drawing an outer cuff point c on a wide side bc based on the rectangle abcd2And cuff width point c1And from point c2Drawing the vertical line segment of the wide side bc to the left sleeve hill point h in the rectangle abcd2，cc20.222 × type, cc10.17X type, line segment h2c20.636 x type, line segment cc2Is sleeve width line, line segment cc1The cuff is large and the line is h2c2A base line at the outer side of the sleeve; drawing a right sleeve hill point h and a sleeve length point c on a long side dc3Line segment hc3Is the base line, line segment cc, of the inner side of the sleeve30.018 × type, line hc30.606 x type, straight line connecting point c3、c1Forming the inclination of the cuff; drawing sleeve elbow point g on line segment hc, drawing the perpendicular segment of line segment hc and line segment h from point g2c2Crossing the outer elbow point g3Line segment gg3Used for drawing sleeve elbows, the line segment hg is 0.17 multiplied by the type; at line segment gg3Upper drawing sleeve elbow curvature point g1And the outer elbow curvature point g2Line segment gg1The adduction amount of the sleeve elbow, line segment g3g2Line segment g for the outer feeding amount3g2Line gg10.012 × type; connecting points h and g by arc lines1、c3Form the inner radian of the sleeve elbow and connect the point h with an arc2、g2、c1Forming the outer radian of the sleeve elbow;
the drawing of the sleeve mountains of the large-sleeve structure and the small-sleeve structure comprises the following steps: drawing the perpendicular line segment of the line segment hc from the point h to the inside of the rectangle abcd to the middle and lower point h of the sleeve hill4Line segment hh4Is the horizontal central line of the sleeve cap and is used for drawing the central structure of the sleeve cap, hh40.11 × type; passing point h4Drawing line segment hh4Perpendicular line segment h3h1Point h1Close to line segment gg3Point h3Is the sleeve mountain high point, point h1Is the sleeve bottom point, line segment h4h30.077 × type, h4h10.097 × type; connecting point h with arc line2、h3H form a convex top sleeve arc line, and the arc line is connected with the point h2、h1H form a concave small sleeve hill arc;
the left side seam drawing of the intensive side panel comprises: drawing a rectangle mnop, wherein a point m is a back upper point of the side piece, a point n is a left lower point of the side piece, a point o is a right lower point of the side piece, a point p is a front upper point of the side piece, a long edge mn is equal to op which is equal to 0.313 multiplied, and a wide edge mp is equal to no which is equal to 0.333 multiplied; drawing small rectangle mm based on < pmn of rectangle mNop3l2m1Armhole separation point l for drawing posterior axillary structure2Posterior armhole separation base point m1On the line segment mp, the back knife arc divides the basic point m3On the line mn, the line mm1＝m3l20.068 × type, line segment mm3＝m1l20.028 × type; drawing a side sheet waist position left point q on the long edge mn7Line segment mq7The waist pitch position of the intensive side panel, line mq7No. 0.197 ×; work angle l2m3q7Bisector m of the angle3m4Point m4For the back knife arc dividing the curvature point, line segment m3m40.065X type, rear cutting arc division tangent point m5Is a line segment m3q7The midpoint of (1), the swing point s in the side panel2Is a line segment q7Middle point of n, from point q7And s2Drawing a line segment q into a rectangle mno7n perpendicular line segment q7q6And s2s3Point q of6Is a point s of left contraction of the waist part of the side sheet3A point of curvature of the central pendulum, line segment q7q60.039 × type, line segment s2s30.05X type, line q7q6Left waist advance, line segment s, for retracting intensive side panels2s3Used for drawing dovetail side swing arc lines; drawing dovetail lower sharp points s on the broadside no4Line segment ns40.083 x type, line segment ns4Used for drawing the dovetail lower sharp corner; connecting point l by arc line2、m4、m5、q6、s3、s4The left side seam integral structure of the intensive side piece is formed;
the right side seam of intensive side piece is drawn, contains: drawing anterior cuff separation point p on broadside mp3Point p of3Armhole separation point, line segment pp for mapping the anterior axillary structure30.114 × type; drawing a point r on the long side po4And r3Line segment pr40.103 x type, line segment r4r30.027 × type; drawing a side piece waist position right point q on the long side po, wherein a line segment pq is used for drawing the waist node position of the intensive side piece, and the line segment pq is 0.205 multiplied; point r2Is the midpoint of line pq, point r2The point is used as a front knife arc segmentation tangent point and is used for drawing a common line tangent point of an anterior axillary structure; drawing a perpendicular to the long side po within the rectangle mno from point qSection-to-side sheet waist position right retraction point q1Line segment qq1Right waist panel, line qq for tucking in intensive side panels10.04 × type; bisector segment pp for drawing ^ mpo1Line segment pp10.06 × type; connecting point p with arc3、p1、r2、q1A male main line forming an anterior axillary structure; connecting point q by a straight line1And s4On the line segment q1s4Draw its midpoint s1Point s1Is a dovetail base point, and from point s1Drawing a line segment q towards the long side po1s4Perpendicular line segment s1s, point s being dovetail curvature point, line segment s1s is 0.054 × type; connecting point q by arc line1、s、s4Forming a dovetail structure; the male main line and the dovetail structure of the anterior axillary structure form a right side seam integral structure of the intensive side piece;
the lower armhole drawing of the intensive lateral plate comprises: drawing the basic point m on the lateral plate armhole on the wide edge mp2Line segment pm20.189 × type; from point m2Drawing the perpendicular segment of the broad edge mp to the lower endpoint l of the lateral plate armhole in the rectangle mNop3Line segment m2l3Depth of lower armhole, line segment m2l30.138 × type; respectively connecting point l by straight line2、l3And p3、l3On line segment l2l3Drawing the base point l of the middle point posterior arm hole, and drawing a line segment l from the point l to the long side mn2l3Perpendicular line segment to posterior armhole curvature point l1Line segment ll10.015 × type; on line segment p3l3Draw up its midpoint anterior sleeve base point p4From point p4Drawing a line segment p towards the long side po3l3From the perpendicular line segment to the front sleeve gallery curvature point r, line segment p4r is 0.05 × type; connecting point l by arc line2、l1、l3、r、p3Forming a lower sleeve gallery structure;
the waist line of intensive side panel is drawn, includes: connecting point q by a straight line1And q is6Forming a waist section basic line and drawing a line segment q1q6And a line segment q drawn from point v towards the broadside mp1q6From the perpendicular line segment to the side panel waist panel point of curvature v1, line segment vv1Form 0.023 x, connecting point q with arc line6、v1、q1Form a waist pitch arc consisting of an arc line q6v1q1And a straight line q1q6The formed profile structure is transversely cut along the middle and then sewn when being manufactured;
the armhole bottom dart drawing of the intensive side piece comprises: in an arc q6v1q1Upper drawing lateral plate armhole bottom provincial midpoint q3Arc line q3v1The length of the female coat is 1.5-3.5 cm (the value of each female coat dovetail clothes is calculated according to the 5.4 series of the national coat size, for example, 1.5 cm is obtained by 150/74A, 2.0 cm is obtained by 155/78A, 2.5cm is obtained by 160/82A, 3.0 cm is obtained by 165/86A, 3.5cm is obtained by 170/90A, and the difference between adjacent sizes is 0.5 cm); straight line connecting point l1And q is3And extending to the armhole bottom saved end point q5Line segment q3q50.115X type, line segment l1q5The total length of the armhole bottom dart is formed; in an arc q6v1q1Upper point q3Two sides draw left-saving points q at the bottom of the side plate armhole4Left-right saving point q of side plate armhole2Arc line q4q3q22 x arc q4q30.024X model, and points l of province road1、q4、q5、q2Drawing into rhombus with straight line connection, and forming armhole bottom dart.
Preferably, the drawing of the front panel and the intensive side panels each further comprises: drawing a pocket, wherein the pocket of the front garment piece and the pocket of the intensive side piece form a complete pocket shape; drawing of the pocket, comprising: in the rectangle abcd, the point j3As the upper right point of the upper anterior pocket, point j4As the upper point of the left end of the anterior pocket, point j7As the lower right point of the upper front pocket, point j5As the lower left end point of the front pocket, at line segment j3j4Upper drawing front upper pocket right end upper point j2Point j of2Distance line segment d1i distance of 0.021 x type, from point j2To line segment j3j4Drawing line segment d from below1i parallel line segment j2j6Point j of6Is the lower point of the right end of the front upper pocket, and the passing point j6Line drawing j3j4Parallel line segment j of7j5(ii) a In the rectangle mNop, with point r4As a site on the side panel pocket, point r3Line pr as the inferior locus of the lateral pocket4Drawing for determining the position of a pocket in a handkerchief, line segment r4r3The width of the pocket of the handkerchief is respectively from the point r4And r3Drawing a line segment in the rectangle mNop to an upper point p2 at the left end of the side piece pocket and a lower point r1 at the left end of the side piece pocket, wherein two side lines of the handkerchief pocket are r4p2And r3r1And r is4p2And r3r1Is in parallel relation with the angle pr4p289 degrees (the molding structure of the intensive lateral plate pocket of stability, the pocket structure that adapts to different models), line segment r4p20.07 x type, line segment r3r10.068 × type.
Preferably, the cutting of the back garment piece, the front garment piece, the intensive side pieces and the sleeve piece is completed on the basis of basic drawing, and the sewing heads are placed on the basis of the basic drawing for cutting.
Preferably, the back cut piece is sewn by placing sewing heads 1.0cm in the rest parts except for 3.5cm of folded edge width which is released from the bottom edge of the back cut piece.
Preferably, the front garment piece and the intensive side pieces are sewn by 1.0cm by sewing heads on the basis of the outline of the basic drawing.
Preferably, the sleeve piece is sewed, and a sewing head is sewed by 1.0cm on the basis of the structural contour of the sleeve piece.
Preferably, by an arc q6v1q1And a straight line q1q6The formed profile structure is manufactured from vv1Similar arc lines q are transversely cut from the middle point to two sides4v1q1The arc lines are sewn again, and the length of the cut arc lines is 8.0-10.5 cm.
The drawing and cutting method of the female dovetail garment solves the problem that the drawing of the traditional dovetail garment is not coordinated and matched, and has the following advantages that:
according to the drawing and cutting method of the female dovetail garment, the front garment piece and the rear garment piece are subjected to the drawing method of the offset lines, the cutting structure is simplified, the intensive cutting of the front and rear armpit garment pieces and the dovetail structure improves the drawing efficiency, the traditional sleeve structure is broken through, the layout and cutting are facilitated by adopting the structure that the size of sleeves is the same as the size, and the cutting of a collar is simplified by adopting the towel gourd collar connecting structure.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a drawing of front and back panels and sleeve panels of a female dovetail garment of the present invention.
FIG. 2 is a schematic drawing of an integrated side panel of the female dovetail garment of the present invention.
FIG. 3 is a schematic view showing the structure of the front and rear panels of the female dovetail garment of the present invention.
FIG. 4 is a schematic structural view of the intensive side panels and the sleeve panels of the female dovetail garment of the present invention.
FIG. 5 is a schematic view of front and rear panel seams of the present invention.
FIG. 6 is a schematic view of the intensive side panel and sleeve panel seam of the present invention.
FIG. 7 is a schematic view of the appearance of the female dovetail garment of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
Example 1
A method for drawing and cutting female dovetail clothes, which is shown in figures 1-7 and takes the female body size with the size of 160/82A (the height of a figure is indicated by cm; the bust of the figure is indicated by cm) as an example, and comprises the following steps: drawing and cutting method of back garment piece, front garment piece, intensive side piece and sleeve piece. Wherein, the back cut piece is drawn and cut in a mode of butt joint with the shoulder deviation line of the front cut piece, and the structure of the back cut piece comprises: a back neck nest, a back shoulder offset line, a back knife arc dividing line and a back slit. The front panel structure comprises: a conjoined towel gourd collar, a back shoulder offset line, a front arc cutting line and a handkerchief pocket (/ part). The intensive side panel structure comprises: anterior underarm, posterior underarm, dovetail, handkerchief pocket (/ section). The structure of the sleeve piece comprises: the novel sleeve comprises a large-sleeve structure and a small-sleeve structure, wherein the large-sleeve structure and the small-sleeve structure are respectively in a convex-concave shape of a sleeve cap, the large-sleeve cap is a convex sleeve cap, and the small-sleeve cap is a concave sleeve cap.
Drawing of first and last garment pieces
A method of drawing a rear panel, comprising:
(1) drawing a rectangle abcd:
the long side ab ═ dc ═ 0.664 ═ 160 ═ 106.24cm, and the wide side ad ═ bc ═ 0.514 × (0.514 × 82) ═ 42.148 cm.
(2) Drawing a neckline of the back cut piece on the rectangle abcd:
drawing back straight-open-leading point a on long edge ab4Drawing the left upper point a of the back collar on the broadside ad1Right upper point a of back collar2And back neck side point a3Point a1And a2For transversely-opening neck line segment aa3Is a point of1Close to point a, from point a1And a2Drawing line segments aa into rectangles abcd respectively3Perpendicular line segment a1a5And a2a6Point a5Is the left curvature point of the back collar, point a6A right curvature point of the back collar, a line segment aa of the cross-open collar30.088 × 82 7.216cm, straight neck line segment aa of back cut piece4Line segment a1a50.027 × 82 2.214cm, and line segment a2a6＝aa4-0.2-2.014 cm, connecting point a with an arc3、a6、a5、a4Forming a rear neckline arc.
(3) Drawing curves in the back of the back garment piece:
on the long side abDrawing a back middle paste point e and a back middle chest point e1Posteromedial lumbar locus e3And a back waist point f, point e being a line segment a4e1Middle point of (a), line segment ae1Line segment ae of back width and longitudinal depth3The waist position of the back garment piece and the line segment af of the back middle-lower crotch position. Line segment ae1Segment ae of 0.178 × 82 14.596cm30.35 × 82cm, 0.269 × 160 cm 43.04 cm.
Respectively from point e1、e3And f drawing the perpendicular segment e of the long side ab1e2、e3e4And ff1Point e2Points of curvature of the middle back, point e4Point f is the posterior mid-lumbar curvature point1Is the location point of the rear vent, line segment e1e2Line segment e for back-to-middle approach3e4The back-middle-waist-joint retraction amount, line segment ff1The amount of the intake of the vent in the back. Line segment e1e20.006 × 82 ═ 0.492cm, and segment e3e40.018 × type 0.018 × 82 1.476cm, line segment ff1When the curve is equal to 0.024 × 82 equal to 1.968cm, the points e and e are connected by arc line segment2、e4、f1Forming a back middle curve of the back garment piece.
(4) Drawing back width, waist section width, back shoulder deviation line and armhole common main dividing line of back cut piece
From point e2、e4、f1Respectively making line segments e1e2、e3e4、ff1From the extension line to the back width point k2Back middle waist width point e5And the back waist width point f2Line segment e2k2For drawing back width, line e4e5For drawing back width, line segment f1f2Is used for the waist width of the back garment piece. Line segment e2k20.22 × 82cm, and segment e4e50.11 × 82 9.02cm, and a segment f1f20.093 × 82 cm.
Connecting point a by straight line segment3、k2Forming a rear shoulder offset line of the rear garment piece, and connecting the rear shoulder offset line with an arc line2、e5、f2Forming a rear garment piece princess dividing line.
(5) Drawing the structure of the slit of the back cut piece and the lower hem:
the amount ff of the vent in the back1Namely the transverse width of the garment slit.
Drawing a rear-middle pendulum point f on a long edge ab3Point f3From point f to the midpoint of line fb3From the perpendicular line of the line fb to the back center width f4Line segment f3f4Line width of the central pendulum, line segment f3f4The size of the sample was 0.15 × 82, 12.3 cm. Drawing a back lower hem point b on the wide side bc1Line segment bb1The width of the bottom edge of the lower hem of the rear garment piece and a line segment bb10.166 × type 0.166 × 82 13.612 cm. Connecting point f by arc line2、f4、b1Forming the lower hem side arc of the rear garment piece.
The integral structure of the back cut piece is formed by a point a4、e、e2、e4、f1、f、f3、b、b1、f4、f2、e5、k2、a3、a6、a5The enclosed structure.
Drawing of second and front garment pieces
Comprises the following steps: the method comprises the following steps of drawing a towel gourd collar, shoulder deviation, an upper armhole, a pocket, princess segmentation and a coat length lower oblique angle structure, wherein the drawing steps are as follows:
(1) drawing the towel gourd collar of the front cut piece:
the front garment length point i is drawn on the long side dc, and the front garment length line segment di is 0.313 × 160 to 50.08 cm. Drawing the front neck side point d on the broadside ad3Front-link width line dd3The size of the film is 0.2 × 82, 16.4 cm. Drawing the leader line segment d3d2Point d of2Is the front collar length point, angle d2d3a 180-123 deg. 57 deg., and segment d3d20.098 × 82 cm. From point d2Draw the neck width line segment d upwards2d1Point d of1Is frontCollar width point,. angle d3d2d190 degrees, line d2d10.08 × 82 is 6.56 cm.
Connecting point d by straight line segment1And i form a collar turning line and are on a line section d1i draw the vertical line j upwards1j, line segment j1j is a width line for drawing the collar lapel, and point j1Is a front lapel locus, point j is a front lapel curvature point, line segment j1j is 0.08 × 82 is 6.56cm, and d is connected by an arc line1J and i form the arc line of the outer opening of the lapel.
(2) Drawing a lower oblique angle structure of the clothes length:
drawing a line segment from point i into rectangle abcd to front waist width point i3Line segment ii3Is a basic line segment of a lower oblique angle, and is less than i3180-76 degrees, 104 degrees, and ii30.158 × type 0.158 × 82 12.956 cm. In line segment ii3Drawing the center point i thereof1And draw the vertical line i upwards1i2Point i1Is the front waist bottom mouth point, point i2Is the front waist bottom opening curvature point, line segment i1i2Is used for drawing the radian of the bottom edge of the front cut piece and a line segment i1i2When the model is 0.006 × 82 ═ 0.492cm, the point i is connected by an arc line3、i2And i form the bottom arc line of the front garment piece.
(3) Drawing front garment piece pockets:
the front garment piece pocket is of a partial pocket structure and forms a complete pocket shape with the pocket of the intensive side piece.
At line segment j1Drawing the upper right point j of the front upper pocket on the i3，j1j30.02 × 82 is 1.64 cm. From point j3Drawing a line segment to the upper point j of the left end of the front pocket4，∠d1j3j4180-99 deg. -81 deg., line segment j3j40.09 × 82 is 7.38 cm. Line drawing j3j4Parallel line segment j of7j5And line segment d1i is the right lower point j of the front upper pocket7Point j of5Is the lower point of the left end of the front pocket,line segment j7j50.087 × 82 7.134cm, and two line segments j3j4And j7j5A distance of r between4r30.027 × type 0.027 × 82cm 2.214 cm. At line segment j3j4Upper drawing front upper pocket right end upper point j2Point j of2Distance line segment d1i is 0.021 × 82 × 1.722cm from point j2To line segment j3j4Drawing line segment d from below1i parallel line segment j2j6Point j of6Is the lower point of the right end of the front upper pocket.
(4) Drawing shoulder deviation line, upper arm hole arc line and front garment piece princess dividing line
The shoulder deviation lines are drawn in cooperation with the rear garment piece (the rear shoulder deviation lines have already been drawn on the front rear garment piece), and are not described in detail herein.
Drawing line segment a3k2Perpendicular bisector kk1Line segment a3k2From the perpendicular kk1The intersection point of (A) is a rear offset point k, point k1For the point of curvature of the rear deflection, line section kk1The section a is connected with an arc line, wherein the section is 0.016X 82 1.312cm3、k1、k2Form the upper sleeve arch line.
Connecting point k with arc line2、j4、j5、i3Forming a front garment piece princess dividing line.
The integral structure of the front garment piece is formed by a point d1、j、i、i2、i3、j5、j4、k2、k1、a3、d3、d2The enclosed structure.
Intensive lateral plate drawing
The intensive side panel comprises: drawing of the front and back underarm structures and the dovetail structures is completed on the basis of the rectangle mnop, and the drawing is as follows:
(1) rectangle mnop and mm3l2m1Is drawn
In the rectangle mNop, point m is the upper point at the back of the side piece, point n is the lower point of the left garment of the side piece, and point o is the right garment of the side pieceAnd (3) putting down the side piece, wherein the point p is the upper point in front of the side piece, the long side mn is 0.313 × 160 is 94.72cm, and the wide side mp is 0.333 × 82 is 27.306 cm. Drawing small rectangle mm based on < pmn of rectangle mNop3l2m1Armhole separation point l for drawing posterior axillary structure2(i.e., posterior armhole separation point), posterior armhole separation base point m1On the line segment mp, the back knife arc divides the basic point m3On the line mn, the line mm1＝m3l20.068 × 82 5.576cm, line segment mm3＝m1l20.028 × 82 is 2.296 cm.
(2) Left side seam rendering of intensive side panels
Drawing a side sheet waist position left point q on the long edge mn7Line segment mq7The waist pitch position of the intensive side panel, line mq70.197 × 160 × 31.52 cm. Work angle l2m3q7Bisector m of the angle3m4Point m4For the back knife arc dividing the curvature point, line segment m3m40.065 × 82 × 5.248 cm. Rear knife arc cutting tangent point m5Is a line segment m3q7The midpoint of (1), the swing point s in the side panel2Is a line segment q7Middle point of n, from point q7And s2Drawing a line segment q into a rectangle mno7n perpendicular line segment q7q6And s2s3Point q of6Is a point s of left contraction of the waist part of the side sheet3For the mid-sway curvature points, draw dovetail lower cusp points s on the broadside no4Line segment q7q6Left waist advance, line segment s, for retracting intensive side panels2s3For drawing dovetail side-swing arc line, line segment ns4Used for drawing the sharp angle under the dovetail. Line segment q7q60.039 × 82 3.198cm, and segment s2s30.05 × type 0.05 × 82 4.1 cm. Line segment ns40.083 × 82 ═ 6.806 cm. Connecting point l by arc line2、m4、m5、q6、s3、s4Left side seam forming an intensive side panelAnd (4) integral structure.
(3) Right side seam drawing of intensive side piece
Drawing anterior cuff separation point p on broadside mp3Point p of3Armhole separation point, line segment pp for mapping the anterior axillary structure30.114 × 82 cm.
Plotting the lateral pocket upper site r on the long side po4Line segment pr4Drawing for determining the position of a pocket of a handkerchief (integral with a pocket of a front part after sewing), a line segment pr40.103 × 82 is 8.446 cm. Line segment r4r3The width of the pocket of handkerchief, point r3Is the inferior site of the lateral pocket, line segment r4r30.027 × 82 2.214cm, and line segment r4r3Two line segments j with the length equal to that of the pocket formed by the front cut pieces3j4And j7j5The distance between the front panel portion pocket and the gathered side panel portion pocket, for matched stitching of the two portion pockets. Respectively from point r4And r3Drawing a line segment in the rectangle mNop to an upper point p2 at the left end of the side piece pocket and a lower point r1 at the left end of the side piece pocket, wherein two side lines of the handkerchief pocket are r4p2And r3r1And r is4p2And r3r1Is in parallel relation with the angle pr4p2180-91 degrees 89 degrees, line segment r4p20.07 × 82 ═ 5.74cm, and segment r3r10.068 × 82cm 5.576 cm.
The side panel waist position right point q is drawn on the long side po, a line segment pq is used for drawing the waist node position of the intensive side panel, and the line segment pq is 0.205 × 160 cm. Point r2Is the midpoint of line pq, point r2And cutting points for anterior knife arc segmentation, and drawing common main line cutting points of anterior axillary structures. Drawing a segment of the perpendicular line of the long side po from the point q to a right retraction point q of the waist of the side sheet1Line segment qq1Right waist panel, line qq for tucking in intensive side panels10.04 × type 0.04 × 82 3.28 cm. Bisector segment pp for drawing ^ mpo1Line segment pp1＝0.0The 6 × size is 0.06 × 82cm is 4.92 cm. Connecting point p with arc3、p1、r2、q1Forming the male main line of the anterior axillary structure. Connecting point q by a straight line1And s4On the line segment q1s4Drawing the base point s of the dovetail at the center point1And from point s1Drawing line segment q downward1s4Perpendicular line segment s1s, point s being dovetail curvature point, line segment s1s 0.054 × 82 4.428cm, connecting with an arc line1、s、s4Forming a dovetail structure. Point p3、p1、r2、q1、s、s4And the right side seam integral structure of the intensive side piece is formed.
(4) Intensive lower armhole drawing of lateral plate
Drawing the basic point m on the lateral plate armhole on the wide edge mp2(i.e., the starting point of the lower armhole), line pm20.189 × 82 ═ 15.498 cm. From point m2Drawing the perpendicular segment of the broad edge mp to the lower endpoint l of the lateral plate armhole in the rectangle mNop3Line segment m2l3Depth of lower armhole, line segment m2l30.138 × type 0.138 × 82 11.316 cm. Respectively connecting point l by straight line2、l3And p3、l3On line segment l2l3Drawing up the base point l of the posterior armhole at the middle point, and drawing down a line segment l from the point l2l3Perpendicular line segment to posterior armhole curvature point l1On the line segment p3l3Draw up its midpoint anterior sleeve base point p4From point p4Drawing line segment p downwards3l3From the perpendicular line segment to the front sleeve gallery curvature point r, line segment ll10.015 × 82 1.23cm, line segment p4r is 0.05 × 82 is 4.1 cm. Connecting point l by arc line2、l1、l3、r、p3Forming a lower arm hole structure.
(5) Waist line drawing of intensive side panels
Connecting point q by a straight line1And q is6Forming a waist section basic line and drawing a line segment q1q6Side waist of the middle pointThe point v is located at the node, and the line segment q is drawn upward from the point v1q6From the vertical line segment to the waist node curvature point v of the side panel1Line segment vv10.023 × 82 1.886cm, and connecting the point q with an arc6、v1、q1To form the waist pitch arc. By arc line q6v1q1And a straight line q1q6The formed profile structure is manufactured from vv1The middle point is transversely cut to the left and the right similarly to an arc line q4v1q1The arc line (be used for the seam dividing head to iron waist festival cutting line, transversely cut 8.0 ~ 10.5cm, according to big small size type value, make intensive lateral plate become whole like this, do not lose the molding of waist structure again, easily operate in batch production, tailor and make up efficiently) and sew up again.
(6) Armhole bottom dart drawing of intensive side piece
In an arc q6v1q1Upper drawing lateral plate armhole bottom provincial midpoint q3Arc line q3v1Has a length of 2.5cm (/ constant). Straight line connecting point l1And q is3And extending to the armhole bottom saved end point q5Line segment q3q50.115 × 82 9.43cm, and line segment l1q5The total length of the armhole bottom dart is formed. At point q3An arc line q formed by setting the width of the armhole bottom dart to two sides along the arc line4q3q2And point q3Is the midpoint of the width of the dart (i.e. the midpoint of the lateral armhole base), point q4Left-hand point of armhole bottom of side plate2Is a left-right point at the bottom of the side plate armhole and an arc line q4q3q22 x arc q4q30.024 × 82cm, and dividing each point l in the province into two parts1、q4、q5、q2Drawing into rhombus with straight line connection, and forming armhole bottom dart.
Drawing of sleeve structure
The sleeve structure comprises: the big and small sleeve structures have consistent sleeve body widths. The structures of the big sleeve and the small sleeve are only distinguished in the protrusion and the recess of the sleeve mountains, the large sleeve mountains are protruded, the small sleeve mountains are recessed, and the large sleeve and the small sleeve are drawn together, specifically as follows:
(1) drawing base lines of sleeve pieces
Drawing an outer cuff point c on a wide side bc based on the rectangle abcd2And cuff width point c1Drawing a right sleeve mountain point h and a sleeve length point c on the long side dc3And from point c2Drawing the vertical line segment of the wide side bc to the left sleeve hill point h in the rectangle abcd2Line segment hc3Is the base line and line segment h of the inner side of the sleeve2c2Is the base line, line segment cc, outside the sleeve2Is sleeve width line, line segment cc1Is a big cuff, a line segment cc30.018 × type 0.018 × 82 1.476cm, and segment hc30.606 × 82 49.692cm, and segment h2c20.636 × 82 × 52.152cm, cc20.222 × 82 (18.204 cm, cc)10.17 × type 0.17 × 82 13.94 cm. Straight line connecting point c3、c1Forming the inclination of the cuff.
Drawing sleeve elbow point g on line segment hc, drawing the perpendicular segment of line segment hc and line segment h from point g2c2Crossing the outer elbow point g3Line segment gg3For drawing sleeve elbow, line segment hg is 0.17 × 82 is 24.6cm, and on-line segment gg3Upper drawing sleeve elbow curvature point g1And the outer elbow curvature point g2Line segment gg1The adduction amount of the sleeve elbow, line segment g3g2Line segment g for the outer feeding amount3g2＝gg10.012 × 82cm is 0.984 cm. The arc segments are respectively connected with the points h and g1、c3Form the inner radian of the sleeve elbow and connect the point h with an arc2、g2、c1Forming the outer radian of the sleeve elbow.
(2) Drawing of convex sleeve mountains of large sleeves and concave sleeve mountains of small sleeves
Drawing a vertical line segment of the line segment hc from the point h to a lower point h in the sleeve hill4Line segment hh4Is the horizontal central line of the sleeve cap and is used for drawing the central structure of the sleeve cap, hh40.11 × 82 is 9.02 cm. Passing point h4Drawing line segment hh4Perpendicular line segment ofh3h1Point h3Is the sleeve mountain high point, point h1Is the sleeve bottom point, line segment h4h3H is 6.314cm (0.077 × 82 ═ 0.077 × H4h1Connecting point h with arc line as 0.097 × 82 as 7.954cm2、h3H form a convex top sleeve arc line, and the arc line is connected with the point h2、h1H form a concave small sleeve mountain arc.
Fifthly, cutting the rough pattern plate of the back garment piece, the front garment piece, the intensive side piece and the sleeve piece
The cutting of the back garment piece, the front garment piece, the intensive side pieces and the sleeve pieces is finished on the basis of basic drawing, and the cutting of the front garment piece and the back garment piece is finished by sewing heads on the basis of the basic drawing: the seam of the rear garment piece is cut by placing a seam head of 1.0cm (fixed number) at the rest of the structure parts except the hem width of 3.5cm (fixed number) at the bottom edge of the rear garment piece; placing seams on the front garment piece and the intensive side pieces, and placing seam heads for 1.0cm (/ fixed number) on the basis of the outline of the basic drawing for cutting; the sleeve is sewed, on the basis of the structural contour of the sleeve, firstly a sewing head is put 1.0cm (/ fixed number) to cut the sleeve, then the respective sleeve cap structures are cut separately for the big and small sleeve, and the sewing head is put 1.0cm (/ fixed number) for the big and small sleeve cap structures to cut.
While the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood that the above description should not be taken as limiting the invention. Various modifications and alterations to this invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art upon reading the foregoing description. Accordingly, the scope of the invention should be determined from the following claims.
Claims (7)
1. A drawing and cutting method for female dovetail clothes is characterized in that the method draws according to the size of the clothes and comprises the following steps: drawing and cutting the back cut piece, the front cut piece, the intensive side piece and the sleeve piece; wherein the drawing of the rear panel comprises: drawing a neckline of the rear garment piece, a middle curve of the back of the rear garment piece, a slit of the rear garment piece, the back width of the rear garment piece, the waist section width of the rear garment piece, a rear shoulder deviation line, a rear garment piece princess dividing line and a lower garment hem structure; drawing of the front garment piece comprises: drawing a towel gourd collar, a long and low bevel structure of the clothes, a shoulder deviation line, an upper sleeve arch line and a front cut piece princess dividing line; the sleeve piece structure is divided into a large sleeve structure and a small sleeve structure, the sleeve body structures of the large sleeve structure and the small sleeve structure are the same, the sleeve mountain structures are different, the sleeve mountain of the large sleeve structure is a convex structure, and the sleeve mountain of the small sleeve structure is a concave structure; the drawing of the gathered side panel comprises: drawing a left side seam, a right side seam, a lower armhole, a waist line and an armhole bottom dart;
the drawing of the neckline of the back garment piece comprises the following steps: drawing a rectangle abcd, wherein a long side ab is 0.664 multiplied by dc, and a wide side ad is 0.514 multiplied by bc; drawing back straight-open-leading point a on long edge ab4Drawing the left upper point a of the back collar on the broadside ad1Right upper point a of back collar2And back neck side point a3Point a1And a2For transversely-opening neck line segment aa3Is a point of1Close to point a, from point a1And a2Drawing line segments aa into rectangles abcd respectively3Perpendicular line segment a1a5And a2a6Point a5Is the left curvature point of the back collar, point a6A right curvature point of the back collar, a line segment aa of the cross-open collar30.088 × type, back cut piece straight collar line segment aa4Line segment a1a50.027 × line segment a2a6＝aa4-0.2, connecting point a with an arc3、a6、a5、a4Forming a rear neckline arc;
the drawing of the back middle curve and the back cut of the back cut comprises the following steps: drawing a back middle patch point e and a back middle chest point e on a long edge ab1Posteromedial lumbar locus e3And a back waist point f, point e being a line segment a4e1Middle point of (a), line segment ae1Line segment ae of back width and longitudinal depth3The waist joint position of the back garment piece, the line segment af is the middle-lower opening position of the back, and the line segment ae10.178X type, line segment ae30.35 × type, line segment af is No. 0.269 × number; respectively from point e1、e3And f drawing the perpendicular segment e of the long side ab1e2、e3e4And ff1Point e2Points of curvature of the middle back, point e4Point f is the posterior mid-lumbar curvature point1Is the location point of the rear vent, line segment e1e2Line segment e for back-to-middle approach3e4The back-middle-waist-joint retraction amount, line segment ff1A line segment e representing the amount of retraction of the slit in the back1e20.006X line segment e3e40.018 × type, line segment ff1Connecting points e and e with arc line segment as 0.024X type2、e4、f1Forming a back middle curve of the rear garment piece;
the drawing of back width of the back garment piece, waist section width of the back garment piece, back shoulder offset line, rear garment piece princess dividing line and lower garment hem structure comprises: from point e2、e4、f1Respectively making line segments e1e2、e3e4、ff1From the extension line to the back width point k2Back middle waist width point e5And the back waist width point f2Line segment e2k2For drawing back width, line e4e5For drawing back width, line segment f1f2For waist width and line length e of rear garment piece2k20.22 × type, line e4e50.11 × type, line segment f1f2Joining point a with straight line segment ═ 0.093 ×, type3、k2Forming a rear shoulder offset line of the rear garment piece, and connecting the rear shoulder offset line with an arc line2、e5、f2Forming a rear garment piece princess dividing line; drawing a rear-middle pendulum point f on a long edge ab3Point f3From point f to the midpoint of line fb3From the perpendicular line of the line fb to the back center width f4Line segment f3f4Line width of the central pendulum, line segment f3f40.15 × type; drawing a back lower hem point b on the wide side bc1Line segment bb1The width of the bottom edge of the lower hem of the rear garment piece and a line segment bb10.166X type, and connecting point f by arc line2、f4、b1Forming a lower hem side arc of the rear garment piece;
the integral structure of the back cut piece is composed of a line segment a4e. Arc ee2e4f1Line segment f1b and bb1Arc b1f4f2And f2e5k2Line segment k2a3Arc a3a6a5a4A surrounding structure;
the drawing of the towel gourd collar of the front cut piece comprises the following steps: drawing a front garment long point i on the long side dc, wherein the front garment long line section di is 0.313 multiplied by the number; drawing the front neck side point d on the broadside ad3Front-link width line dd3Drawing a collar length line segment d as 0.2 × type3d2Point d of2Is the front collar length point, line segment d3d2Draw line segment d with collar width of 0.098 ×2d1Point d of1Is the front collar width point, point d1At a distance greater than point d from broadside ad2Distance from wide edge ad, angle d3d2d190 degrees, line d2d1Is equal to 0.08X type and is less than d2d3a is 70-2 x line segment d2d1(ii) a Connecting point d by straight line segment1And i form a collar turning line and are on a line section d1i drawing perpendicular j thereto towards the long side dc1j, line segment j1j is a width line for drawing the collar lapel, and point j1Is a front lapel locus, point j is a front lapel curvature point, line segment j1j is 0.08X type and is connected with d by an arc line1J and i form a lapel outer opening arc;
the drawing of the clothes length and lower bevel angle structure of the front cut piece comprises the following steps: drawing a line segment from point i into rectangle abcd to front waist width point i3Line segment ii3Is a basic line segment of a lower oblique angle, and is less than i3ic 104 degrees, line ii30.158 × type; in line segment ii3Drawing the center point i thereof1And drawing a perpendicular line i thereof toward the broadside ad1i2Point i1Is the front waist bottom mouth point, point i2Is the front waist bottom opening curvature point, line segment i1i2For drawing radian of bottom edge of front cut piece and line segment i1i20.006X type, connecting point i with arc line3、i2I, forming a bottom edge arc line of the front garment piece;
the shoulder deviation line of the front garment piece and the front garment pieceThe back shoulder offset lines of the back cut pieces are the same and are line segments a3k2；
Drawing an upper sleeve arc line and a front garment piece princess dividing line of the front garment piece, wherein the drawing comprises the following steps: drawing line segment a3k2Perpendicular bisector kk1Line segment a3k2From the perpendicular kk1The intersection point of (A) is a rear offset point k, point k1For the point of curvature of the rear deflection, line section kk1Is 0.016X, and is connected with the point a by an arc line3、k1、k2Forming an upper sleeve hole arc line; at line segment j1i draw point j3，j1j30.02 × type, from point j3Drawing line segment to point j towards princess dividing line of rear garment piece4，∠d1j3j4Line j of 81 degrees3j40.09 × type; at line segment j3j4And ii3Draw a line segment j therebetween3j4Parallel line segment j of7j5Line segment j7j5And line segment d1i is point j7Two line segments j3j4And j7j5The distance between them is 0.027X type, line segment j7j50.087 × type; connecting point k with arc line2、j4、j5、i3Forming a front garment piece princess dividing line;
the integral structure of the front cut piece is formed by an arc line d1ji、ii2i3、i3j5j4k2And k2k1a3And line segment a3d3、d3d2And d2d1A surrounding structure;
the drawing of the sleeve body structure comprises the following steps: drawing an outer cuff point c on a wide side bc based on the rectangle abcd2And cuff width point c1And from point c2Drawing the vertical line segment of the wide side bc to the left sleeve hill point h in the rectangle abcd2，cc20.222 × type, cc10.17X type, line segment h2c20.636 x type, line segment cc2Is sleeve width line, line segment cc1Is a cuffLarge, line segment h2c2A base line at the outer side of the sleeve; drawing a right sleeve hill point h and a sleeve length point c on a long side dc3Line segment hc3Is the base line, line segment cc, of the inner side of the sleeve30.018 × type, line hc30.606 x type, straight line connecting point c3、c1Forming the inclination of the cuff; drawing sleeve elbow point g on line segment hc, drawing the perpendicular segment of line segment hc and line segment h from point g2c2Crossing the outer elbow point g3Line segment gg3Used for drawing sleeve elbows, the line segment hg is 0.17 multiplied by the type; at line segment gg3Upper drawing sleeve elbow curvature point g1And the outer elbow curvature point g2Line segment gg1The adduction amount of the sleeve elbow, line segment g3g2Line segment g for the outer feeding amount3g2Line gg10.012 × type; connecting points h and g by arc lines1、c3Form the inner radian of the sleeve elbow and connect the point h with an arc2、g2、c1Forming the outer radian of the sleeve elbow;
the drawing of the sleeve mountains of the large-sleeve structure and the small-sleeve structure comprises the following steps: drawing the perpendicular line segment of the line segment hc from the point h to the inside of the rectangle abcd to the middle and lower point h of the sleeve hill4Line segment hh4Is the horizontal central line of the sleeve cap and is used for drawing the central structure of the sleeve cap, hh40.11 × type; passing point h4Drawing line segment hh4Perpendicular line segment h3h1Point h1Close to line segment gg3Point h3Is the sleeve mountain high point, point h1Is the sleeve bottom point, line segment h4h30.077 × type, h4h10.097 × type; connecting point h with arc line2、h3H form a convex top sleeve arc line, and the arc line is connected with the point h2、h1H form a concave small sleeve hill arc;
the left side seam drawing of the intensive side panel comprises: drawing a rectangle mnop, wherein a point m is a back upper point of the side piece, a point n is a left lower point of the side piece, a point o is a right lower point of the side piece, a point p is a front upper point of the side piece, a long edge mn is equal to op which is equal to 0.313 multiplied, and a wide edge mp is equal to no which is equal to 0.333 multiplied; drawing small rectangle mm based on < pmn of rectangle mNop3l2m1Armhole separation point l for drawing posterior axillary structure2Posterior armhole separation base point m1On the line segment mp, the back knife arc divides the basic point m3On the line mn, the line mm1＝m3l20.068 × type, line segment mm3＝m1l20.028 × type; drawing a side sheet waist position left point q on the long edge mn7Line segment mq7The waist pitch position of the intensive side panel, line mq7No. 0.197 ×; work angle l2m3q7Bisector m of the angle3m4Point m4For the back knife arc dividing the curvature point, line segment m3m40.065X type, rear cutting arc division tangent point m5Is a line segment m3q7The midpoint of (1), the swing point s in the side panel2Is a line segment q7Middle point of n, from point q7And s2Drawing a line segment q into a rectangle mno7n perpendicular line segment q7q6And s2s3Point q of6Is a point s of left contraction of the waist part of the side sheet3A point of curvature of the central pendulum, line segment q7q60.039 × type, line segment s2s30.05X type, line q7q6Left waist advance, line segment s, for retracting intensive side panels2s3Used for drawing dovetail side swing arc lines; drawing dovetail lower sharp points s on the broadside no4Line segment ns40.083 x type, line segment ns4Used for drawing the dovetail lower sharp corner; connecting point l by arc line2、m4、m5、q6、s3、s4The left side seam integral structure of the intensive side piece is formed;
the right side seam of intensive side piece is drawn, contains: drawing anterior cuff separation point p on broadside mp3Point p of3Armhole separation point, line segment pp for mapping the anterior axillary structure30.114 × type; drawing a point r on the long side po4And r3Line segment pr40.103 x type, line segment r4r30.027 × type; drawing a side piece waist position right point q on the long edge po, wherein a line segment pq is used for drawing the waist position of the intensive side piece, and the line segment pq is 0.205 and is also used for drawingNumber; point r2Is the midpoint of line pq, point r2The point is used as a front knife arc segmentation tangent point and is used for drawing a common line tangent point of an anterior axillary structure; drawing a segment of the perpendicular to the long side po from the point q within the rectangle mnop to the right waist retraction point q of the side panel1Line segment qq1Right waist panel, line qq for tucking in intensive side panels10.04 × type; bisector segment pp for drawing ^ mpo1Line segment pp10.06 × type; connecting point p with arc3、p1、r2、q1A male main line forming an anterior axillary structure; connecting point q by a straight line1And s4On the line segment q1s4Draw its midpoint s1Point s1Is a dovetail base point, and from point s1Drawing a line segment q towards the long side po1s4Perpendicular line segment s1s, point s being dovetail curvature point, line segment s1s is 0.054 × type; connecting point q by arc line1、s、s4Forming a dovetail structure; the male main line and the dovetail structure of the anterior axillary structure form a right side seam integral structure of the intensive side piece;
the lower armhole drawing of the intensive lateral plate comprises: drawing the basic point m on the lateral plate armhole on the wide edge mp2Line segment pm20.189 × type; from point m2Drawing the perpendicular segment of the broad edge mp to the lower endpoint l of the lateral plate armhole in the rectangle mNop3Line segment m2l3Depth of lower armhole, line segment m2l30.138 × type; respectively connecting point l by straight line2、l3And p3、l3On line segment l2l3Drawing the base point l of the middle point posterior arm hole, and drawing a line segment l from the point l to the long side mn2l3Perpendicular line segment to posterior armhole curvature point l1Line segment ll10.015 × type; on line segment p3l3Draw up its midpoint anterior sleeve base point p4From point p4Drawing a line segment p towards the long side po3l3From the perpendicular line segment to the front sleeve gallery curvature point r, line segment p4r is 0.05 × type; connecting point l by arc line2、l1、l3、r、p3Forming a lower sleeve gallery structure;
the waist line of intensive side panel is drawn, includes: connecting point q by a straight line1And q is6Forming a waist section basic line and drawing a line segment q1q6And a line segment q drawn from point v towards the broadside mp1q6From the perpendicular line segment to the side panel waist panel point of curvature v1, line segment vv1Form 0.023 x, connecting point q with arc line6、v1、q1Form a waist pitch arc consisting of an arc line q6v1q1And a straight line q1q6The formed profile structure is manufactured from vv1Similar arc lines q are transversely cut from the middle point to two sides4v1q1Re-sewing the arc;
the armhole bottom dart drawing of the intensive side piece comprises: in an arc q6v1q1Upper drawing lateral plate armhole bottom provincial midpoint q3Arc line q3v1The length of the groove is 1.5-3.5 cm; straight line connecting point l1And q is3And extending to the armhole bottom saved end point q5Line segment q3q50.115X type, line segment l1q5The total length of the armhole bottom dart is formed; in an arc q6v1q1Upper point q3Two sides draw left-saving points q at the bottom of the side plate armhole4Left-right saving point q of side plate armhole2Arc line q4q3q22 x arc q4q30.024X model, and points l of province road1、q4、q5、q2Drawing into rhombus with straight line connection, and forming armhole bottom dart.
2. A method for drawing and cutting a female dovetail garment according to claim 1, wherein drawing of the front panel and the intensive side panel each further comprises: drawing a pocket, wherein the pocket of the front garment piece and the pocket of the intensive side piece form a complete pocket shape;
drawing of the pocket, comprising:
in the rectangle abcd, the point j3As the upper right point of the upper anterior pocket, point j4As the upper point of the left end of the anterior pocket, point j7As the lower right point of the upper front pocket, point j5As the lower left end point of the front pocket, at line segment j3j4Upper drawing front upper pocket right end upper point j2Point j of2Distance line segment d1i distance of 0.021 x type, from point j2To line segment j3j4Drawing line segment d from below1i parallel line segment j2j6Point j of6Is the lower point of the right end of the front upper pocket, and the passing point j6Line drawing j3j4Parallel line segment j of7j5；
In the rectangle mNop, with point r4As a site on the side panel pocket, point r3Line pr as the inferior locus of the lateral pocket4Drawing for determining the position of a pocket in a handkerchief, line segment r4r3The width of the pocket of the handkerchief is respectively from the point r4And r3Drawing a line segment in the rectangle mNop to an upper point p2 at the left end of the side piece pocket and a lower point r1 at the left end of the side piece pocket, wherein two side lines of the handkerchief pocket are r4p2And r3r1And r is4p2And r3r1Is in parallel relation with the angle pr4p2Segment r at 89 degrees4p20.07 x type, line segment r3r10.068 × type.
3. The method for drawing and cutting female dovetail garment according to claim 1, wherein the cutting of the back panel, the front panel, the intensive side panels and the sleeve panel is performed on the basis of a basic drawing, and the sewing is performed on the basis of the basic drawing.
4. The method for drawing and cutting female dovetail clothes according to claim 3, wherein the sewing of the rear garment piece is performed by putting a sewing head at 1.0cm except for 3.5cm of a folded width which is released from a bottom edge of the rear garment piece.
5. A method for drawing and cutting female dovetail garment according to claim 3, wherein the front panel and intensive side panel are sewn with sewing head 1.0cm based on the outline of the basic drawing.
6. The method for drawing and cutting female clothes with dovetail according to claim 3, wherein the sleeve is sewn and the sewing head is cut by 1.0cm based on the structural contour of the sleeve.
7. Method for drawing and cutting a female dovetail according to claim 1, characterized in that it consists of an arc q6v1q1And a straight line q1q6The formed profile structure is manufactured from vv1Similar arc lines q are transversely cut from the middle point to two sides4v1q1The arc lines are sewn again, and the length of the cut arc lines is 8.0-10.5 cm.
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|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN113331517A (en) * | 2021-06-08 | 2021-09-03 | 西京学院 | Drawing method for female clothes with inclined lapel |
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