CN113749339B - Plate making method of body sleeve flexible loose clothing - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention discloses a plate making method of a body sleeve flexible clothing, which relates to the technical field of clothing plate making, and comprises the following specific steps: drawing a front and rear clothing piece foundation framework, making a chest girth, a waist girth and a hip girth, making a rear shoulder blade, making side seams and splitting chest, drawing a basic sleeve, drawing an armhole arc line and a sleeve ridge line of a shoulder sleeve, equally dividing the sleeve ridge line into two equal parts to form a big sleeve piece and a small sleeve piece of the two sleeves, deleting the folded part of the front sleeve, and drawing a split seam; the invention not only has strong adaptability to various loose garments and high maturity in the linkage adjustment of the garment body and the sleeves, but also carries out deep research on the relationship among the chest circumference size, the armhole depth and the sleeve fertilizer size, and summarizes the size matching data table of the chest circumference, the sleeve fertilizer and the armhole depth of the loose garment, thereby having the characteristics of convenience, rapidness and accuracy.

Description

Plate making method of body sleeve flexible loose clothing

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of clothing platemaking, in particular to a platemaking method of a body sleeve flexible loose clothing.

Background

Loose garments have a large market share, affected by the fashion trends of garments. The current plate making method of loose clothing mainly comprises the following three steps: firstly, a vertical cutting method: a method for making templates by utilizing tools and materials such as a three-dimensional model, white grey cloth, a pin and the like, which is mostly used for hanging, hanging and fluffy night dress and stage dress platemaking, and some loose dress adopts the method, so that the method is not used for carrying out loose dress platemaking in enterprises at present, and has low popularity; secondly, a prototype method: the method is characterized in that a Japanese cultural type clothing prototype is adopted to manufacture loose clothing, a female cultural type jacket prototype is firstly manufactured, and then chest circumference loosening is performed on the basis of the prototype, so that the adoption rate of the method in enterprises is not high due to the fact that the jacket prototype needs to be drawn or prepared in advance; thirdly, a proportion distribution method: the proportion distribution method is a method which is most used when the clothing manufacturing industry of China makes boards and cuts at present, and the method refers to a Japanese chest degree method, and the clothing cutting method is created by taking the actual chest circumference of the ready-made clothing as a base number. The proportion distribution method is used for making patterns of men and women's coats, jackets, trousers and the like, and loose clothes are also used for proportion distribution;

the prior clothing platemaking method has the following problems:

1. although the vertical cutting method is relatively visual, the plate making process is relatively complicated due to the multiple procedures of consuming materials, copying the plane paper patterns and the like, and the copied plane paper patterns are also properly corrected. The main problems are long time consumption and uneconomical; 2. when the prototype method is adopted to make loose clothing, operations such as chest circumference size adding and releasing, sleeve size adding and releasing are needed, and the accuracy and stability of clothing modeling are insufficient; 3. the proportion distribution method calculates the size of each part through a certain formula proportion, is a generalized plate making method, lacks the method of balancing clothes bodies such as shearing, gathering and the like, and has the advantages that the accuracy and the balance of the modeling are required to be improved when loose clothing plate making is carried out by the method; therefore, we propose a plate making method of body sleeve flexible loose clothing.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to solve the following defects in the prior art:

1. solves the problem of unbalanced front and back clothing pieces of loose clothing;

2. solving the problem of unreasonable front and back relaxation amount of loose clothing;

3. solves the problem that the relation between the chest circumference of loose clothing, the armhole depth and the sleeve fertilizer is difficult to match.

In order to achieve the above purpose, the present invention adopts the following technical scheme:

a plate making method of a body sleeve flexible loose garment comprises the following specific steps:

s1, drawing front and rear garment piece basic frames, and making chest girth lines, waist girth lines and hip girth lines:

s2, shoulder blade province after doing: drawing a horizontal line with the length of 21cm perpendicular to the rear central line, intersecting with the rear shoulder oblique line, determining a rear shoulder width point, and drawing a front chest width line with the length of 16cm parallel to the front central line; drawing a back width line parallel to a back center line by 17.5cm, wherein the BP point is 9cm away from the front center line, the front small shoulder width is determined by taking the back small shoulder width length-1 as the front small shoulder width dimension, the back small shoulder width is halved, a back shoulder province center line is formed at the halving point, the province center line length is 9cm, the province width is 2cm, and the province length is 9cm as a back shoulder blade province;

s3, performing side suture and chest splitting: intersecting with a vertical line of a chest girth line on a BP point, namely intersecting with a front small shoulder line, taking the line as a unilateral chest girth line of the chest province, taking 17 degrees as the chest province size, drawing an equal length line of the other chest province, opening the chest province, taking an intersection point of a front chest width line and the chest girth line to one half of an intersection point of a back width line and the chest girth line, taking a side suture downwards, taking 3.5cm leftwards from the intersection point of an upper flat line and the front central line, and taking the split chest quantity;

s4, drawing a basic sleeve: expanding 1.3cm at the position of the horizontal line from the BP point to the front central line, trimming the front central line, removing redundant lines, drawing an arc line along the armholes, determining a rear collar fossa deep line by falling 2.4cm from the rear upper flat line, determining a front collar fossa deep line by falling 7.5cm from the front central line, and drawing an arc line along the front collar fossa and the rear collar fossa; the lower amount of the rear center point is 11cm, a horizontal line is made to intersect with a rear armhole arc line, the horizontal line is cut off, the rear shoulder province and the front chest province are combined, the front armhole and the rear armhole are opened, the front armhole is taken as one half of the opening amount of the front armhole, the front armhole is taken as the shearing and lifting amount of the corresponding position of the rear piece, redundant lines are removed, the front armhole and the rear armhole are deeply dropped for 7cm and are connected with the front armhole line and the rear armhole line, the bottom ends of the front armhole and the rear armhole line are upwards respectively measured for 10cm, an armhole alignment mark is made, the front armhole alignment point and the rear armhole alignment point are downwards led to intersect with a bottom cycloid, and a basic armhole is drawn according to the size;

s5, drawing armhole arcs and sleeve lines of the raglan sleeves: respectively making alignment marks on the sleeve lines according to the lengths of front and rear armholes, respectively taking 10cm at the bottom ends of the front and rear sleeve lines, making alignment marks, overlapping the alignment mark points of the front and rear armholes of the front and rear pieces by taking the front and rear alignment mark points of the sleeve as reference points, extending the rear shoulder line by 1cm, taking the alignment mark points of the front and rear armholes as central points, rotating the front and rear pieces towards the sleeve peak, enabling the extension line endpoints of the front shoulder point and the rear small shoulder line to fall on the sleeve arc line, enabling the distance between the two points to be about 0.8-1.2 cm, simultaneously taking the alignment mark points of the front sleeve as round points, drawing a circle by taking the 4cm as radius, making an auxiliary circle with additional looseness of the front chest circumference, drawing a circle by taking a rear armhole alignment mark point as a circle center and a radius of 9cm, making a rear chest circumference additional loose auxiliary circle, taking a rear small shoulder line extension line end point as the circle center, rotating a rear middle piece leftwards to enable the rear armhole alignment mark point to fall on a circumferential line, taking a front middle piece rightwards to enable a front armhole alignment mark point to fall on the circumferential line, connecting the front small shoulder end point and the rear small shoulder line extension line end point into a straight line, taking one half of the line, making a new sleeve central line downwards, taking 9cm at the upper end of the sleeve central line, and drawing an armhole arc line and an armhole line of a sleeve through the points;

s6, equally dividing the sleeve fertilizer line into two equal parts: firstly, making an alignment mark point, secondly, performing process pulling-out treatment on the middle end of a front small shoulder line, finally, pulling out the sleeve middle point to the sleeve arc alignment point by 0.7cm, drawing an auxiliary line in the direction parallel to the sleeve middle line by 5cm, and equally dividing the sleeve fertilizer lines on the left side and the right side of the auxiliary line into two equal parts;

s7, forming a basic sleeve arc line of a large sleeve piece and a small sleeve piece of the two sleeves: horizontally overturning and copying the front and rear sleeve arches, overlapping the bottom end points of the front and rear sleeve arches with the intersection point of the sleeve central line auxiliary line and the sleeve fertilizer line, generating 2 intersection points of the copied front and rear sleeve arches and the original sleeve arches, respectively leading vertical lines downwards from the 2 intersection points to intersect with the cuff line, finally respectively making two parallel lines at the left and right 3cm of the vertical line led by the intersection point of the two front sleeve arches, deleting redundant arches, and forming two-sleeve large-sleeve-piece basic sleeve arches and two-sleeve small-piece basic sleeve arches;

s8, deleting the folded part of the front sleeve;

s9, drawing a splicing line: two parallel lines are respectively 1.2cm above and below the cuff line, and the upper parallel line extends to the right 5cm; 1.5cm and 1.8cm are used as circles on the intersection points of the two front sleeve seam auxiliary lines and the sleeve elbow lines; the intersection point of the two front sleeve seam auxiliary lines and the cuff line is rounded by 0.7cm and 5cm; respectively drawing a front sleeve seam line of the big sleeve piece and a front sleeve seam line of the small sleeve piece; the front sleeve split stitch line of the big sleeve and the small sleeve generates two intersection points with the cuff line, the midpoint of the two intersection points is taken as a circle center, a circle is taken as a radius of 14.5cm, and the circle center is connected with the intersection point of a parallel line below the cuff and the circumference; taking the intersection point of the auxiliary line of the back sleeve seam and the sleeve fertilizer line as a center point and taking 5cm as a radius to make a circle; taking the intersection point of the back sleeve seam auxiliary line and the sleeve elbow line as a center point, taking 3cm as a radius as a circle, taking the intersection point of the cuff line and the auxiliary line below the cuff as a circle center, taking 1cm as a radius as a circle, and connecting the back sleeve seam auxiliary line of the large sleeve piece and the small sleeve piece; the front end of the small sleeve arc line descends by 0.7cm, the small sleeve arc line is adjusted, and the back stitching line of the large sleeve and the small sleeve is drawn smoothly.

As a further scheme of the invention: the length of the front and rear panel base frames in the step S1 is 90cm, and the width is 47cm;

wherein, the specific steps of making chest girth, waist girth and buttock girth are: the front upper flat line is lifted by 1cm on the basic frame; the front transverse opening width is 6.8cm, the rear transverse opening collar width is 7.3cm, and the front shoulder angle is 15: 6. rear shoulder line bevel angle 15:5, making front and back shoulder oblique lines, and respectively making chest girth lines, waist girth lines and hip girth lines 25cm, 40cm and 59cm away from the front upper flat line.

As a further scheme of the invention: the specific steps of the alignment mark point in the step S6 are as follows:

A. making alignment mark points on the front and rear small shoulder lines:

B. making alignment mark points on the front and back armhole arcs: the upper end of the back side seam is shortened by 1.2cm, the upper end of the front side seam line is shortened by 1.3cm, the end point of the armhole arc line is adjusted to the upper end point of the new side seam line, the front and back armhole arc lines and the front and back armhole arc lines are connected in a circle, 10cm is respectively taken from the upper ends of the front and back armhole arc lines, and the opposite points are marked;

C. registering mark points on the top of the sleeve cap: the positions of 9.4cm are respectively taken at the left and right of the peak of the sleeve, and the opposite positions are marked.

As a further scheme of the invention: the specific steps of making alignment mark points on the front and rear small shoulder lines are as follows:

SS1, drawing two auxiliary lines above and below the front small shoulder line by 0.15cm parallel to the front small shoulder line, dividing the front small shoulder line and the two parallel auxiliary lines into three equal parts, and connecting a front shoulder neck point, a first equal point of the auxiliary line below the front small shoulder line, a second equal point of the auxiliary line above the front small shoulder line and a midpoint of a line connecting the front small shoulder end point and a rear small shoulder line extension line end point into smooth arcs;

SS2, connecting the midpoint of the rear small shoulder line and the midpoint of the connecting line of the front small shoulder point and the end point of the extension line of the rear small shoulder line into a smooth arc line;

SS3, taking 2cm from the shoulder and neck point to the shoulder point, and respectively making alignment mark points on the front and rear small shoulder lines.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:

1. the distribution of the tightness of the chest circumference accords with the ergonomics, and is convenient for activities and beautiful: in the prior art, when loose clothing is processed, the front chest circumference and the back chest circumference are processed to be equal in size, or the front chest circumference is slightly larger than the back chest circumference, from the perspective of human body movement, arms move forward in the human body movement, and the back chest circumference is properly processed to be larger, so that arm movement is facilitated; the plate making method has small front chest circumference and large back chest circumference, and has beautiful appearance.

2. The body shape characteristics of the human body are met, and the balance of the front and rear garment pieces is excellent: the front and back surfaces of the female body are shaped like a curved surface and undulate, and the side materials of loose clothing can generate forward middle and back middle thrust due to the action of gravity, so that the front midline is easy to overlap and lift, and the back middle piece does not fit.

3. The linkage adjustment of clothing body and coat-sleeve is extremely strong to the adaptability of various loose clothing, and the maturity is high: the plate making method has conducted intensive research on the relationship among chest circumference size, armhole depth and armhole size, and summarized a size matching data table of the chest circumference, armhole and armhole depth of loose clothing, and has the characteristics of convenience, rapidness and accuracy compared with the table.

4. The sleeve shape accords with the shape of the human arm, and is comfortable and beautiful: the lower arm is slightly inclined forward when the human arm naturally sags, and the plate making method adopts a forward inclination plate making method below the elbow, so that the shape is matched with the human body, and the problems of arm pressing, unattractive shape and the like of sleeves are solved.

Drawings

The accompanying drawings are included to provide a further understanding of the invention and are incorporated in and constitute a part of this specification, illustrate the invention and together with the embodiments of the invention, serve to explain the invention.

FIGS. 1-3 are schematic diagrams of step S5 of the present invention;

FIGS. 4-5 are schematic diagrams of step S6 of the present invention;

FIG. 6 is a schematic diagram of step S7 of the present invention;

FIGS. 7-8 are schematic diagrams of step S8 of the present invention;

FIGS. 9-14 are schematic diagrams of step S9 of the present invention;

fig. 15 is a flow chart of the present invention.

Detailed Description

The following description of the embodiments of the present invention will be made clearly and completely with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which it is apparent that the embodiments described are only some embodiments of the present invention, but not all embodiments.

The embodiment discloses a plate making method of a body sleeve flexible loose garment, which comprises the following specific steps:

referring to fig. 1-15, front and rear panel base frames are drawn and chest, waist and hip circumference lines are made;

specifically, the front and rear panel base frames are 90cm long and 47cm wide;

the specific steps for making the chest girth, the waist girth and the hip girth in the embodiment are as follows: the front upper flat line is lifted by 1cm on the basic frame; the front transverse opening width is 6.8cm, the rear transverse opening collar width is 7.3cm, and the front shoulder angle is 15: 6. rear shoulder line bevel angle 15:5, making front and back shoulder oblique lines, and respectively making chest girth lines, waist girth lines and hip girth lines 25cm, 40cm and 59cm away from the front upper flat line;

after doing so, the shoulder blade is saved: drawing a horizontal line with the length of 21cm perpendicular to the rear central line, intersecting with the rear shoulder oblique line, determining a rear shoulder width point, and drawing a front chest width line with the length of 16cm parallel to the front central line; drawing a back width line parallel to a back center line by 17.5cm, wherein the BP point is 9cm away from the front center line, the front small shoulder width is determined by taking the back small shoulder width length-1 as the front small shoulder width dimension, the back small shoulder width is halved, a back shoulder province center line is formed at the halving point, the province center line length is 9cm, the province width is 2cm, and the province length is 9cm as a back shoulder blade province;

side suture and chest splitting amount: intersecting with a vertical line of a chest girth line on a BP point, namely intersecting with a front small shoulder line, taking the line as a unilateral chest girth line of the chest province, taking 17 degrees as the chest province size, drawing an equal length line of the other chest province, opening the chest province, taking an intersection point of a front chest width line and the chest girth line to one half of an intersection point of a back width line and the chest girth line, taking a side suture downwards, taking 3.5cm leftwards from the intersection point of an upper flat line and the front central line, and taking the split chest quantity;

drawing a basic sleeve: expanding 1.3cm at the position of the horizontal line from the BP point to the front central line, trimming the front central line, removing redundant lines, drawing an arc line along the armholes, determining a rear collar fossa deep line by falling 2.4cm from the rear upper flat line, determining a front collar fossa deep line by falling 7.5cm from the front central line, and drawing an arc line along the front collar fossa and the rear collar fossa; the lower amount of the rear center point is 11cm, a horizontal line is made to intersect with a rear armhole arc line, the horizontal line is cut off, the rear shoulder province and the front chest province are combined, the front armhole and the rear armhole are opened, the front armhole is taken as one half of the opening amount of the front armhole, the front armhole is taken as the shearing and lifting amount of the corresponding position of the rear piece, redundant lines are removed, the front armhole and the rear armhole are deeply dropped for 7cm and are connected with the front armhole line and the rear armhole line, the bottom ends of the front armhole and the rear armhole line are upwards respectively measured for 10cm, an armhole alignment mark is made, the front armhole alignment point and the rear armhole alignment point are downwards led to intersect with a bottom cycloid, and a basic armhole is drawn according to the size;

1-3, the armhole arc and the armhole line of the raglan sleeve are drawn: respectively making alignment marks on the armholes according to the lengths of the front armholes and the rear armholes, then respectively taking 10cm at the bottom ends of the front armholes and the rear armholes as alignment marks, taking the front armhole alignment mark point and the rear armhole alignment mark point of the armholes as reference points, overlapping the front armhole alignment mark point and the rear armhole alignment mark point, prolonging the rear shoulder line by 1cm, taking the front armhole alignment mark point and the rear armhole alignment mark point as center points, rotating the front and the rear armhole towards the armhole peak, enabling the front shoulder point and the rear shoulder line extension line to fall on an armhole arc line, enabling the two points to be about 0.8cm to 1.2cm away, taking the front armhole alignment mark point as a round point, taking 4cm as a radius to draw a circle, taking the front chest circumference as an auxiliary circle, taking the rear armhole alignment mark point as a circle center, taking 9cm as a radius to draw a rear chest circumference auxiliary circle, taking the rear shoulder circumference extension line as a circle center, enabling the rear shoulder line extension line to rotate leftwards, enabling the rear shoulder alignment mark point to fall on the circumference line, taking the front shoulder point as a circle center point, taking the front shoulder line point and the front shoulder line as a straight line point and the front shoulder line point and the arm point and taking the front shoulder line and the two points to be a straight down;

referring to fig. 4-8, the sleeve fertilizer line is equally divided into two equal parts: firstly, making an alignment mark point, secondly, performing process pulling-out treatment on the middle end of a front small shoulder line, finally, pulling out the sleeve middle point to the sleeve arc alignment point by 0.7cm, drawing an auxiliary line in the direction parallel to the sleeve middle line by 5cm, and equally dividing the sleeve fertilizer lines on the left side and the right side of the auxiliary line into two equal parts;

specifically, the specific steps of the alignment mark point are as follows: firstly, making alignment mark points on front and rear small shoulder lines: secondly, making alignment mark points on the front and back armhole arcs: the upper end of the back side seam is shortened by 1.2cm, the upper end of the front side seam line is shortened by 1.3cm, the end point of the armhole arc line is adjusted to the upper end point of the new side seam line, the front and back armhole arc lines and the front and back armhole arc lines are connected in a circle, 10cm is respectively taken from the upper ends of the front and back armhole arc lines, and the opposite points are marked; finally, registering mark points on the top of the sleeve cap: taking 9.4cm from the left and right sleeve peak, marking opposite sites;

in addition, the embodiment further discloses the specific steps of making alignment mark points on the front and rear small shoulder lines: drawing two auxiliary lines above and below the front small shoulder line by 0.15cm parallel to the front small shoulder line, dividing the front small shoulder line and the two parallel auxiliary lines into three equal parts, and connecting a front shoulder neck point, a first equal point of the auxiliary line below the front small shoulder line, a second equal point of the auxiliary line above the front small shoulder line and a midpoint of a line connecting the front small shoulder end point and a rear small shoulder line extension line end point into a smooth arc line; secondly, connecting a midpoint of the rear small shoulder line and a midpoint of a connecting line between the front small shoulder end point and an extension line end point of the rear small shoulder line into a smooth arc line; finally, taking 2cm from the shoulder and neck point to the shoulder point, and respectively making alignment mark points on the front and rear small shoulder lines;

forming a basic sleeve arch line of a large sleeve piece and a small sleeve piece of the two sleeves: horizontally overturning and copying the front and rear sleeve arches, overlapping the bottom end points of the front and rear sleeve arches with the intersection point of the sleeve central line auxiliary line and the sleeve fertilizer line, generating 2 intersection points of the copied front and rear sleeve arches and the original sleeve arches, respectively leading vertical lines downwards from the 2 intersection points to intersect with the cuff line, finally respectively making two parallel lines at the left and right 3cm of the vertical line led by the intersection point of the two front sleeve arches, deleting redundant arches, and forming two-sleeve large-sleeve-piece basic sleeve arches and two-sleeve small-piece basic sleeve arches; deleting the folded part of the front sleeve;

referring to fig. 9-14, a split stitch line is drawn: two parallel lines are respectively 1.2cm above and below the cuff line, and the upper parallel line extends to the right 5cm; 1.5cm and 1.8cm are used as circles on the intersection points of the two front sleeve seam auxiliary lines and the sleeve elbow lines; the intersection point of the two front sleeve seam auxiliary lines and the cuff line is rounded by 0.7cm and 5cm; as shown in fig. 12, the front sleeve seam line of the large sleeve piece and the front sleeve seam line of the small sleeve piece are respectively drawn; the front sleeve split stitch line of the big sleeve and the small sleeve generates two intersection points with the cuff line, the midpoint of the two intersection points is taken as a circle center, a circle is taken as a radius of 14.5cm, and the circle center is connected with the intersection point of a parallel line below the cuff and the circumference; taking the intersection point of the auxiliary line of the back sleeve seam and the sleeve fertilizer line as a center point and taking 5cm as a radius to make a circle; taking the intersection point of the back sleeve seam auxiliary line and the sleeve elbow line as a center point, taking 3cm as a radius as a circle, taking the intersection point of the sleeve opening line and the auxiliary line below the sleeve opening as a circle center, and taking 1cm as a radius as a circle, and connecting the back sleeve seam auxiliary line of the large sleeve piece as shown in figure 13; the front end of the small sleeve arc line descends by 0.7cm, the small sleeve arc line is adjusted, and the back stitching line of the large sleeve and the small sleeve is drawn smoothly as shown in fig. 14.

In conclusion, the platemaking method has extremely strong adaptability to various loose clothes and high maturity through linkage adjustment of the clothes body and the sleeves. The plate making method carries out intensive study on the relation among the chest circumference size, the armhole depth and the armhole size, and summarizes the size matching data table of the chest circumference, the armhole and the armhole depth of loose clothing as follows:

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the reference table has the characteristics of convenience, rapidness and accuracy.

The foregoing is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, but the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto, and any person skilled in the art, who is within the scope of the present invention, should make equivalent substitutions or modifications according to the technical scheme of the present invention and the inventive concept thereof, and should be covered by the scope of the present invention.

Claims (1)

1. A plate making method of a body sleeve flexible loose garment is characterized by comprising the following specific steps:

s1, drawing front and rear garment piece basic frames, and making chest girth lines, waist girth lines and hip girth lines:

the length of the front and rear panel base frames is 90cm, and the width is 47cm;

wherein, the specific steps of making chest girth, waist girth and buttock girth are: the front upper flat line is lifted by 1cm on the basic frame; the front transverse opening width is 6.8cm, the rear transverse opening collar width is 7.3cm, and the front shoulder angle is 15: 6. rear shoulder line bevel angle 15:5, making front and back shoulder oblique lines, and respectively making chest girth lines, waist girth lines and hip girth lines 25cm, 40cm and 59cm away from the front upper flat line;

s2, shoulder blade province after doing: drawing a horizontal line with the length of 21cm perpendicular to the rear central line, intersecting with the rear shoulder oblique line, determining a rear shoulder width point, and drawing a front chest width line with the length of 16cm parallel to the front central line; drawing a back width line parallel to a back center line by 17.5cm, wherein the BP point is 9cm away from the front center line, the front small shoulder width is determined by taking the back small shoulder width length-1 as the front small shoulder width dimension, the back small shoulder width is halved, a back shoulder province center line is formed at the halving point, the province center line length is 9cm, the province width is 2cm, and the province length is 9cm as a back shoulder blade province;

s3, performing side suture and chest splitting: intersecting with a vertical line of a chest girth line on a BP point, namely intersecting with a front small shoulder line, taking the line as a unilateral chest girth line of the chest province, taking 17 degrees as the chest province size, drawing an equal length line of the other chest province, opening the chest province, taking an intersection point of a front chest width line and the chest girth line to one half of an intersection point of a back width line and the chest girth line, taking a side suture downwards, taking 3.5cm leftwards from the intersection point of an upper flat line and the front central line, and taking the split chest quantity;

s4, drawing a basic sleeve: expanding 1.3cm at the position of the horizontal line from the BP point to the front central line, trimming the front central line, removing redundant lines, drawing an arc line along the armholes, determining a rear collar fossa deep line by falling 2.4cm from the rear upper flat line, determining a front collar fossa deep line by falling 7.5cm from the front central line, and drawing an arc line along the front collar fossa and the rear collar fossa; the lower amount of the rear center point is 11cm, a horizontal line is made to intersect with a rear armhole arc line, the horizontal line is cut off, the rear shoulder province and the front chest province are combined, the front armhole and the rear armhole are opened, the front armhole is taken as one half of the opening amount of the front armhole, the front armhole is taken as the shearing and lifting amount of the corresponding position of the rear piece, redundant lines are removed, the front armhole and the rear armhole are deeply dropped for 7cm and are connected with the front armhole line and the rear armhole line, the bottom ends of the front armhole and the rear armhole line are upwards respectively measured for 10cm, an armhole alignment mark is made, the front armhole alignment point and the rear armhole alignment point are downwards led to intersect with a bottom cycloid, and a basic armhole is drawn according to the size;

s5, drawing armhole arcs and sleeve lines of the raglan sleeves: respectively making alignment marks on the sleeve lines according to the lengths of front and rear armholes, respectively taking 10cm at the bottom ends of the front and rear sleeve lines, making alignment marks, overlapping the alignment mark points of the front and rear armholes of the front and rear pieces by taking the front and rear alignment mark points of the sleeve as reference points, extending the rear shoulder line by 1cm, taking the alignment mark points of the front and rear armholes as central points, rotating the front and rear pieces towards the sleeve peak, enabling the extension line endpoints of the front shoulder point and the rear small shoulder line to fall on the sleeve arc line, enabling the distance between the two points to be about 0.8-1.2 cm, simultaneously taking the alignment mark points of the front sleeve as round points, drawing a circle by taking the 4cm as radius, making an auxiliary circle with additional looseness of the front chest circumference, drawing a circle by taking a rear armhole alignment mark point as a circle center and a radius of 9cm, making a rear chest circumference additional loose auxiliary circle, taking a rear small shoulder line extension line end point as the circle center, rotating a rear middle piece leftwards to enable the rear armhole alignment mark point to fall on a circumferential line, taking a front middle piece rightwards to enable a front armhole alignment mark point to fall on the circumferential line, connecting the front small shoulder end point and the rear small shoulder line extension line end point into a straight line, taking one half of the line, making a new sleeve central line downwards, taking 9cm at the upper end of the sleeve central line, and drawing an armhole arc line and an armhole line of a sleeve through the points;

s6, equally dividing the sleeve fertilizer line into two equal parts: firstly, making an alignment mark point, secondly, performing process pulling-out treatment on the middle end of a front small shoulder line, finally, pulling out the sleeve middle point to the sleeve arc alignment point by 0.7cm, drawing an auxiliary line in the direction parallel to the sleeve middle line by 5cm, and equally dividing the sleeve fertilizer lines on the left side and the right side of the auxiliary line into two equal parts;

the specific steps of the alignment mark point are as follows:

A. making alignment mark points on the front and rear small shoulder lines:

B. making alignment mark points on the front and back armhole arcs: the upper end of the back side seam is shortened by 1.2cm, the upper end of the front side seam line is shortened by 1.3cm, the end point of the armhole arc line is adjusted to the upper end point of the new side seam line, the front and back armhole arc lines and the front and back armhole arc lines are connected in a circle, 10cm is respectively taken from the upper ends of the front and back armhole arc lines, and the opposite points are marked;

C. registering mark points on the top of the sleeve cap: taking 9.4cm from the left and right sleeve peak, marking opposite sites;

the specific steps of making alignment mark points on the front and rear small shoulder lines are as follows:

SS1, drawing two auxiliary lines above and below the front small shoulder line by 0.15cm parallel to the front small shoulder line, dividing the front small shoulder line and the two parallel auxiliary lines into three equal parts, and connecting a front shoulder neck point, a first equal point of the auxiliary line below the front small shoulder line, a second equal point of the auxiliary line above the front small shoulder line and a midpoint of a line connecting the front small shoulder end point and a rear small shoulder line extension line end point into smooth arcs;

SS2, connecting the midpoint of the rear small shoulder line and the midpoint of the connecting line of the front small shoulder point and the end point of the extension line of the rear small shoulder line into a smooth arc line;

SS3, taking 2cm from the shoulder and neck point to the shoulder point, and respectively making alignment mark points on the front and rear small shoulder lines;

s7, forming a basic sleeve arc line of a large sleeve piece and a small sleeve piece of the two sleeves: horizontally overturning and copying the front and rear sleeve arches, overlapping the bottom end points of the front and rear sleeve arches with the intersection point of the sleeve central line auxiliary line and the sleeve fertilizer line, generating 2 intersection points of the copied front and rear sleeve arches and the original sleeve arches, respectively leading vertical lines downwards from the 2 intersection points to intersect with the cuff line, finally respectively making two parallel lines at the left and right 3cm of the vertical line led by the intersection point of the two front sleeve arches, deleting redundant arches, and forming two-sleeve large-sleeve-piece basic sleeve arches and two-sleeve small-piece basic sleeve arches;

s8, deleting the folded part of the front sleeve;

s9, drawing a splicing line: two parallel lines are respectively 1.2cm above and below the cuff line, and the upper parallel line extends to the right 5cm; 1.5cm and 1.8cm are used as circles on the intersection points of the two front sleeve seam auxiliary lines and the sleeve elbow lines; the intersection point of the two front sleeve seam auxiliary lines and the cuff line is rounded by 0.7cm and 5cm; respectively drawing a front sleeve seam line of the big sleeve piece and a front sleeve seam line of the small sleeve piece; the front sleeve split stitch line of the big sleeve and the small sleeve generates two intersection points with the cuff line, the midpoint of the two intersection points is taken as a circle center, a circle is taken as a radius of 14.5cm, and the circle center is connected with the intersection point of a parallel line below the cuff and the circumference; taking the intersection point of the auxiliary line of the back sleeve seam and the sleeve fertilizer line as a center point and taking 5cm as a radius to make a circle; taking the intersection point of the back sleeve seam auxiliary line and the sleeve elbow line as a center point, taking 3cm as a radius as a circle, taking the intersection point of the cuff line and the auxiliary line below the cuff as a circle center, taking 1cm as a radius as a circle, and connecting the back sleeve seam auxiliary line of the large sleeve piece and the small sleeve piece; the front end of the small sleeve arc line descends by 0.7cm, the small sleeve arc line is adjusted, and the back stitching line of the large sleeve and the small sleeve is drawn smoothly.

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