CN111567969A - Method for drawing and cutting women's clothing - Google Patents
Method for drawing and cutting women's clothing Download PDFInfo
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- CN111567969A CN111567969A CN202010485431.7A CN202010485431A CN111567969A CN 111567969 A CN111567969 A CN 111567969A CN 202010485431 A CN202010485431 A CN 202010485431A CN 111567969 A CN111567969 A CN 111567969A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
- A41H3/08—Patterns on the cloth, e.g. printed
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Abstract
The invention discloses a drawing and cutting method for women's dress conjoined clothes, which comprises the following steps: a method for drawing and cutting a body, a hat, insert-insert cloth and pin cloth; wherein the insert crotch cloth is arranged at the crotch of the body and is used for increasing the crotch structure of the trousers; the pin cloth is arranged at the armpit position of the body and used for increasing the moving angle of the sleeves. The method integrates the sleeves and the body, strengthens the garment structure by the insert cloth and the angle cloth, is easy to operate and improve, and improves the cutting efficiency of the conjoined garment.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a method for drawing a one-piece garment, in particular to a method for drawing and cutting a one-piece garment for women.
Background
For a long time, the traditional one-piece clothes have complex structural graphs, multiple steps and low working efficiency in the drawing process. Especially when crotch structure was drawn, with the application of the former original book of crotch structure of trousers in disjunctor structure, when causing to tailor, the cloth can't be folded, and front and back crotch structure figure is complicated and will separately tailor just can accomplish, has increased the tailoring degree of difficulty. And the sleeves are often independently cut for drawing the sleeves, so that the efficiency is not high.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a method for drawing and cutting women's dress conjoined clothes, which solves the problems of the crotch structure and the sleeve drawing in the traditional conjoined dress drawing, integrates the sleeves and the body, strengthens the dress structure by inserting the crotch cloth and the corner inserting cloth, is easy to operate and improves the cutting efficiency of the conjoined dress.
In order to achieve the aim, the invention provides a method for drawing and cutting women's dress connected body, which comprises the following steps: a method for drawing and cutting a body, a hat, insert-insert cloth and pin cloth; wherein the insert crotch cloth is arranged at the crotch of the body and is used for increasing the crotch structure of the trousers; the pin cloth is arranged at the armpit position of the body and used for increasing the moving angle of the sleeves.
The method for drawing the body comprises the following steps:
drawing a rectangle abcd, setting ab and cd as long sides of the rectangle, wherein the length of ab is equal to the length of cd, which is equal to the length of clothes +2.0cm, and the length of ad is equal to the length of bc, which is equal to 0.25, which is equal to the length of hip circumference +1.0 cm;
setting points c1 and c2 on the cd side, wherein the point c1 is used for drawing a rear straight neck, the point c2 is used for drawing a front straight neck, the length of a line segment cc1 is 0.05 head size, and the length of a line segment cc2 is 0.2 head size; setting a point c3 on the bc side, drawing a back horizontal open collar at a point c3, and setting the length of a line segment cc3 to be 0.2 of the head circumference size; a straight line connects the points c1 and c3, a midpoint h is drawn on a line segment c1c3, a segment perpendicular to the line segment c1c3 is drawn from the point h to h1, the point h1 is used for drawing a rear neckline arc, the length of the line segment hh1 is 0.025 head circumference, and the rear neckline arc is formed by connecting points c3, h1 and c1 of the arc;
a straight line connects points c2 and c3, a midpoint i1 is drawn on a line segment c2c3, a segment from the point i1, which is a perpendicular line of the line segment c2c3, to the point i, is used for drawing a front neckline arc, the length of the line segment i1i is 0.046 head circumference size, and the front neckline arc is formed by connecting points c3, i and c2 of the arc;
extending cb from point b to point f, wherein the length of the line segment cf is equal to the sleeve length plus 1.0cm and is used for drawing the sleeve length; from the parallel line of ba drawn at point f to point f1, the length of line segment ff1 is 0.15 × hip circumference size +1.0 for drawing the cuff; b1 point is set on the ab edge, b1 point is used for drawing armhole depth, and the length of the line segment bb1 is 0.25 × hip circumference size; the straight line connects the point f1 and the point b1, and the line segments bf, ff1 and f1b1 form sleeves;
setting a G point on an ab edge, wherein the length of a line segment bG is 0.41 mark, intersecting a cd edge with a perpendicular line segment from the G point to the ab edge at a G1 point, and GG1 is a hip contour line;
drawing a line segment b1b2 from a point b1 into the rectangle abcd, wherein an angle Gb1b2 is 180-1/2, an angle f1b1G, and the length of the line segment b1b2 is 0.144 in hip size, and the line segment b1b is used for drawing an underarm opening;
the length of segment aa1, which is set at point a1 on the ad edge, is 0.038 × hip size, and is used to draw the cuff.
The method for drawing a hat comprises:
a line segment k1e3 is drawn, and the length of k1e3 is equal to the head circumference/2 +3.5 cm; drawing a middle point g1 on a line segment k1e3, drawing a perpendicular line from points k1, e3 and g1 to points k, e and g of the line segment k1e3, respectively, wherein the length of k1k is equal to the length of e3e is equal to the length of g1g is equal to the length of k1e 3; points k2 and e2 are shown on k1k and e3e, respectively, and the length of kk2 is 0.16 × head circumference, ee2, for plotting hat width and height; from point e3, making an extension line of e2e3 to e1, and drawing a line segment e3e1 of 0.19 of head circumference of 0.19 of 60cm of 11.4cm for drawing the forehead lower end height of the hat;
connecting points k2 and e2 by a straight line, dividing a line segment k2e2 into four equal parts, generating four equal division points w, g3 and m from points k2 to points e2, connecting points k, w, g, m and e in sequence by the straight line to form an equal line segment, and wherein em is mg, gw, wk;
setting the middle points of the line segments em, mg, gw and wk as points n1, y1, z1 and x1 respectively, making vertical line segments of the line segments em, mg, gw and wk from the points n1, y1, z1 and x1 to the points n, y, z and x respectively, and obtaining an arc enm, an arc myg, an arc gzw and an arc wxk by arc connection to form a petal structure at the top end of the hat;
setting a point s, straight line connecting points s and k2 on a line segment k1g1, setting a midpoint t1 on a line segment sk2, making a perpendicular line of a line segment sk2 from the midpoint t1 to the point t, and forming a cap rear spoon structure by using arc connecting points k2, t and s;
drawing a line segment sp from a point s to the outside of a rectangle k2e2e3k1, wherein the angle g1sp is 0.127 × 180 × 22.86 degrees, the line segment sp is a back neckline arc c3h1c1-r1r/2 of the body, setting a center point r1 on the line segment sp, drawing a vertical line of the line segment sp from the center point r1 to the point r, forming a back neckline arc by using arc connecting points s, r and p, and enabling the length of the back neckline arc srp of the hat to be equal to the length of the back neckline arc c3h1c1 of the body;
a line segment e1p1 is drawn from a point e1, an angle e3e1p1 is 0.372 x 180 degrees and 66.96 degrees, a line segment e1p1 is a front body neckline arc c3ic2-q1q/2 is a front body neckline arc c3ic2-1.35, a middle point q1 is set on the line segment e1p1, a perpendicular line to q of the line segment e1g1 is drawn downwards from the middle point q1, the front hat neckline arc is formed by arc line connecting points e1, q and p1, and the length of the front hat neckline e1qp1 is equal to the length of the front body neckline arc c3 2;
the ear window of the hat is a circle which takes a point g4 as a circle center and is tangent to a point g3 and is used for cutting the ear window; connecting a point g4 with points p and p1 respectively in straight lines, setting the midpoints of line segments g4p and g4p1 as a point v and a point u respectively, drawing vertical lines of the line segments g4p and g4p1 from the point v and the point u to the points v1 and u1 from the point v and the point u respectively, and connecting a first group of arc lines g4r1p and a second group of arc lines g4u1p1 respectively by using arc lines to form a lower end structure of the cap ear;
the structures of the eye window and the mouth window are both rectangular with round corners on one side, the eye window is positioned at the corner k2e2e3, the two vertical sides are positioned on k2e2 and e2e3, and the side of the mouth window with the two corners being right angles is positioned on e2e1 which is positioned at the position 8.0cm below the eye window.
The method for drawing the insert crotch cloth comprises the following steps:
drawing a line segment 1-2, wherein the length of the line segment 1-2 is 0.431 for drawing the length of the insert cloth; drawing vertical line segments of the line segment 1-2 from the point 1 to two opposite directions to form a line segment 1-5 and a line segment 1-6 respectively, wherein the length of the line segment 1-5 is equal to the length of the line segment 1-6 is equal to 0.067 hip circumference, and the vertical line segments are used for drawing the width of the insert crotch cloth; drawing a vertical line segment of the line segment 1-2 from the point 2 to two opposite directions to form a line segment 2-3 and a line segment 2-4 respectively, wherein the line segment 2-3 and the line segment 1-6 are positioned on the same side of the line segment 1-2, the line segment 2-4 and the line segment 1-5 are positioned on the same side of the line segment 1-2, the length of the line segment 2-3 is 0.009 hip circumference and is used for drawing the width of the front bottom edge of the insert crotch cloth, and the length of the line segment 2-4 is 0.019 hip circumference and is used for drawing the width of the rear bottom edge of the insert crotch cloth;
drawing a vertical line segment 5-7 of the line segment 1-5 from the point 5, wherein the line segment 5-7 is 0.096 hip circumference and is used for drawing the crotch back length of the insert crotch cloth; drawing a vertical line segment 6-8 of the line segment 1-6 from the point 6, wherein the line segment 6-8 is 0.057 hip circumference and is used for drawing the crotch length of the insert crotch cloth; drawing a bisector segment 5-11 of an angle 1-5-7 from the point 5, wherein the segment 5-11 is 0.038 the hip circumference and is used for drawing the back crotch curvature of the insert crotch cloth; drawing a bisector line segment 6-12 of an angle 1-6-8 from the point 6, wherein the line segment 6-12 is 0.019 the hip circumference and is used for drawing the front crotch curvature of the insert crotch cloth; drawing a vertical line segment 7-10 of a line segment 5-7 from the point 7 to the outside, drawing a vertical line segment 8-9 of a line segment 6-8 from the point 8 to the outside, and drawing the crotch inclination of the insert crotch, wherein the line segment 7-10 is the line segment 8-9 is 0.009 the hip circumference;
the crotch cloth is composed of line segments 4-10, crotch cloth camber lines, line segments 3-9 and line segments 3-4, wherein the crotch cloth is composed of straight line connecting points 4 and 10, point segments 3 and 9, and the crotch cloth camber lines are composed of arc lines 10, 11, 1, 12 and 9.
The pin cloth drawing method comprises the following steps:
the pin cloth is shaped into a diamond, the height of the diamond is 0.271 and the hip circumference of the diamond is 0.098 and 104cm and 10.192cm, the hypotenuse of the diamond is a line segment b1b2, the pin cloth is drawn, and the hypotenuse of the diamond is matched and sewn with the line segment b1b2 on the body piece.
The method for cutting the body piece, the hat, the insert piece cloth and the pin cloth comprises the following steps:
the cloth is firstly folded in the radial direction and then folded in the weft direction, four layers of cloth are cut along the shape of the body according to the drawing of the body, the four layers of cloth are cut according to the back neckline arc, then the radial cloth is unfolded and then the front neckline arc is cut, and the four layers of cloth are cut according to the line segment b1b2 under the armpit to obtain the body;
cutting a front crotch line on the body, setting a gap to be cut at the center of the lower part of the front body and the same length as the line segment 3-9 on one side of the insert crotch cloth, cutting a back crotch line on the body, setting a gap to be cut at the center of the lower part of the back body and the same length as the line segment 4-10 on the other side of the insert crotch cloth;
cutting the shape of the insert crotch cloth in the cloth according to the insert crotch cloth drawing, and using the insert crotch cloth as the insert crotch cloth on the left side and the right side;
cutting the shape of the pin cloth in the cloth according to the pin cloth drawing, wherein the pin cloth is used as pin cloth under the armpits on the left side and the right side;
and cutting the cloth according to the drawing of the hat to obtain the hat structure.
Preferably, in the drawing of the hat, the vertical line segment n1n, y1y, z1z, x1x, 2.5 cm.
Preferably, in the drawing of the hat, the line segment k1s is 2.5 cm.
Preferably, in the drawing of the hat, the line t1t is 0.5cm, the line r1r is 0.5cm, the line q1q is 2.7cm, and the line vv1 is 0.5cm uu 1.
Preferably, in the drawing of the hat, the ear window is a circle having a diameter of 10 cm.
Preferably, in the drawing of the hat, the side of the eye window on e2e1 is its height of 8cm, and the side parallel to k1e3 is its width of 7 cm; the side of the mouthpiece lying on e2e1 was its height, 7cm, and the side parallel to k1e3 was its width, 6 cm.
Preferably, the method for drawing the figure further comprises: and setting the distance between the bottom end of the pocket and the line GG1 to be 16cm, the opening of the pocket to be 18cm, the height of the pocket to be 17cm, and the lower corner of the pocket to be a round corner for drawing the pocket.
Preferably, the body, the hat, the insert-crotch cloth and the pin cloth are sewn by:
adhering petals, an eye window, a mouth window, an ear window, a back spoon of a hat, the hat sides g4p and g4p1 which are raised by adopting sol;
the side seam of the body is sewed by adopting a flat sewing stitch, the crotch cloth is respectively inserted and closed at the front and back crotch lines at the left and right sides of the cut body and is also sewed by adopting the flat sewing stitch, the pin cloth is adhered at the armpit by adopting sol, and the cap is adhered at the neck pit of the clothes body by adopting sol; the zipper is arranged in the middle of the back body piece, so that the back body piece is convenient to put on and take off.
Preferably, the eye window material is transparent soft glass, the ear window and the mouth window are made of flock spraying cloth, and the cap material is made of coating gas-proof cloth.
Preferably, a layer of adhesive tape is arranged on the zipper for protection; elastic bands are arranged at the positions of the collar, the cuffs, the waistline and the foot openings and are used for tightening.
The method for drawing and cutting the women's clothing connected body solves the problems of the traditional connected clothing drawing of the crotch structure and the sleeves, and has the following advantages:
according to the method, the hat comprises the eye window, the mouth window and the ear window, and can be used for protecting the face, the eye window is made of transparent soft glass, the ear window and the mouth window are made of flock spraying cloth, and the hat is made of coating anti-virus cloth and can be used as protective clothing.
The method integrates the body and the sleeves, and the upper garment and the lower garment are integrally drawn, so that the garment structure is simplified.
The method of the invention adds the insert cloth and the angle cloth, the insert cloth is cut into the shape of a fish fork and is applied to the crotch position of the body to increase the crotch structure of the trousers, and the angle cloth is cut into the diamond structure and is used for inserting the angle under the armpit of the body to increase the movement of the sleeves.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a first drawing structure diagram of the body of the present invention.
Fig. 2 is a drawing structure diagram of the body of the invention.
FIG. 3 is a first drawing structure of the hat of the present invention.
FIG. 4 is a second drawing structure of the hat of the present invention.
FIG. 5 is a third drawing structure of the hat of the present invention.
FIG. 6 is a fourth drawing structure of the cap of the present invention.
FIG. 7 is a fifth drawing structure of the hat of the present invention.
Fig. 8 is a drawing structure diagram of the insert crotch fabric of the present invention.
Fig. 9 is a drawing structure diagram of the pin cloth of the present invention.
Fig. 10 is a schematic diagram of the cutting of the body piece of the present invention.
Fig. 11 is a cut-out view of the hat and pin cloth of the present invention.
Fig. 12 is a schematic view showing the cutting of the insert crotch fabric and the pocket of the present invention.
FIG. 13 is a schematic view showing the sewing of the cap of the present invention.
Fig. 14 is a first schematic view of the sewing of the insert crotch fabric of the present invention to the body panel.
Fig. 15 is a second sewing view showing the sewing of the insert crotch panel of the present invention to the body panel.
Fig. 16 is a third schematic view showing the sewing of the insert crotch fabric of the present invention to the body panel.
Figure 17 is a schematic view of the stitching of the body panel of the present invention.
Fig. 18 is a schematic view showing the sewing of the cap and the pin cloth of the present invention to the body.
FIG. 19 is a schematic view of a stitched dress form of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
Example 1
A method for drawing and cutting the connected clothes of women's dress, as shown in fig. 1-19, includes drawing and cutting the hat, body, insert cloth and pin cloth. Wherein, the cutting of the hat comprises the following steps: cutting the eye window, the mouth window and the ear window, setting the eye window and the mouth window to be square and round structures, setting the eye window and the mouth window to be larger than the mouth window and respectively positioned at the positions corresponding to the eyes and the mouth of the head of the human body, and setting the ear window to be round structures and positioned at the positions corresponding to the ears of the head of the human body. The cutting of the body is to draw and cut on the four layers of folding cloth, which comprises the following steps: cutting neckline, sleeves and body. The insert cloth is cut into a fish-fork shape and is used for the crotch position of the body and increasing the crotch structure of the trousers. The pin cloth is cut into a diamond structure for inserting the corner of the armpit of the body and increasing the movement of the sleeves.
For the female model with the middle number 160/84A, the sizes of the parts are as follows: the method is characterized in that the length of the suit is 136cm, the hip circumference is 104cm, the head circumference is 60cm, the length of the sleeves is 74cm, and the method comprises the following specific steps:
(S100) figure drawing method of body
As shown in fig. 1, a rectangle abcd is set, ab and cd are long sides of the rectangle, the clothes length is calculated, ab is equal to cd, 2.0cm is equal to 136+2.0cm is equal to 138cm, ad and bc are wide sides of the rectangle, the hip circumference is calculated, ad is equal to bc, 0.25 is equal to hip circumference, and 1.0cm is equal to 0.25 is equal to 104+1.0cm is equal to 27 cm.
Points c1 and c2 are set on the cd edge, a line segment cc1 is 0.05, a head circumference size is 0.05, 60cm is 3.0cm, a point c1 is used for drawing a rear straight open collar, a line segment cc2 is 0.2, a head circumference size is 0.2, 60cm is 12cm, and a point c2 is used for drawing a front straight open collar. A point c3 is set on bc, and a line segment cc3 of 0.2 of head size 0.2 of 60cm of 12cm is used to draw the horizontal open neck after drawing. And a straight line connects points c1 and c3, a midpoint h is drawn on a line segment c1c3, a segment h perpendicular to the line segment c1c3 is drawn from the point h to h1, a line segment hh1 is 0.025, a head size is 0.025, 60cm is 1.5cm, and is used for drawing a rear neckline arc, and the rear neckline arc is formed by arc connection points c3, h1 and c 1. The straight line connects the points c2 and c3, a midpoint i1 is drawn on the line segment c2c3, a segment from the point i1 to the perpendicular line of the line segment c2c3 is drawn, the line segment i1i is 0.046, the head size is 0.046, 60cm is 2.76cm, and is used for drawing a front neckline arc, and the front neckline arc is formed by connecting the arc lines c3, i and c 2.
Extending cb from point b to point f, line segment cf is sleeve length dimension +1.0 cm-74 cm +1.0 cm-75 cm for drawing sleeve length. From the parallel line drawn from point f for ba to point f1, the line segment ff1 is 0.15 × hip circumference size +1.0 is 0.15 × 104cm +1.0 is 16.6cm for drawing the cuff. And b1 point is set on the ab edge, the line segment bb1 is 0.25, 104 and 26cm, and the b1 point is used for drawing the armhole depth.
Points G are set on the ab edge, and the line segment bG is 0.41, 160cm is 65.6cm, and the points G are used for drawing the hip circumference.
A line segment b1b2 is drawn from a point b1 into the rectangle abcd, an angle Gb1b2 is 180-1/2, an angle f1b1G, and a line segment b1b2 is 0.144, a hip size is 0.144, 104cm is 14.976cm, and the line segment is used for drawing an underarm opening.
The point a1 is set on the ad edge, and the segment aa1 is 0.038 and 104cm is 3.952cm for drawing the crotch.
Perpendicular line section that ab limit was made from G point intersects cd limit in G1 point, and GG1 is the buttockss envelope curve, sets for the pocket bottom apart from line segment GG1 to be 16cm, and the pocket sack is 18cm, and the pocket bag is high to be 17cm, and the pocket lower corner is the fillet for draw the pocket.
(S200) method for drawing hat
As shown in fig. 2, a line k1e3 is drawn, and the length of k1e3 is equal to head circumference/2 +3.5 cm; a center point g1 is drawn on the line segment k1e3, the perpendicular to the line segment k1e3 is drawn from the points k1, e3, and g1, respectively, the length of k1k is the length of e3e is the length of g 1e3, and the points k1k and e3e are drawn, respectively, and k2 is 0.16 is the head circumference 0.16 is 60cm is 0.96cm, for the purpose of drawing the hat width and height.
From point e3, an extension of e2e3 is drawn to e1, and a line segment e3e1 is 0.19, 60cm, 11.4cm around the head for plotting the forehead lower height of the hat.
A straight line connects points k2 and e2, dividing line segment k2e2 into quarters, resulting in quarter points w, g3, m from points k2 to e 2. The g point is at the same height as the k point and the e point from the g3 point, which is perpendicular to the line k2e2, gg3 is kk2 is ee2, and the k, w, g, m and e are connected in sequence by straight lines to form an equal line segment, i.e., em is mg, gw is wk.
The middle points of the line segments em, mg, gw and wk are respectively set as points n1, y1, z1 and x1, the vertical line segments of the line segments em, mg, gw and wk are respectively drawn upwards from the points n1, y1, z1 and x1 to the points n, y, z and x, the vertical line segment n1n ═ y1y ═ z1z ═ x1x ═ 2.5cm, and arc lines are connected to obtain an arc line enm, an arc line myg, an arc line gzw and an arc line wxk, so that the hat top structure is formed.
The point s is set on the segment k1g1, and the segment k1s is 2.5 cm. The straight line connecting points s and k2 set the middle point t1 on the line segment sk2, the perpendicular line from the middle point t1 to the line segment sk2 is drawn to the point t, t1t is 0.5cm, and the arc connecting points k2, t and s form the rear spoon structure of the hat.
A line segment sp is drawn from a point s to the outside of the rectangle k2e2e3k1, the angle g1sp is 0.127 × 180 ═ 22.86 °, the line segment sp is a back body neckline arc c3h1c1-r1r/2 ═ a back body neckline arc c3h1c1-0.25, a center point r1 is set on the line segment sp, a perpendicular line to the line segment sp is drawn from a center point r1 to a point r, the line segment r1r is 0.5cm, the back hat neckline is formed by arc connecting points s, r, and p, and the length of the back hat neckline arc srp is equal to the length of the back body neckline arc c3h1c 1.
A line segment e1p1 is drawn from the point e1, the angle e3e1p1 is 0.372 × 180 degrees, 66.96 degrees, the line segment e1p1 is a front body neck arc c3ic2-q1q/2 is a front body neck arc c3ic2-1.35, a middle point q1 is set on the line segment e1p1, a perpendicular line to q of the line segment e1g1 is drawn downward from the middle point q1, the line segment q1q is 2.7cm, the front hat neck arc is formed by arc connecting points e1, q and p1, and the length of the front hat neck arc e1qp1 is equal to the length of the front body neck c3ic 2.
The ear window of the hat is a circle with the diameter oo1, oo1 is 10cm, the circle is tangent to the point g3, the center of the circle is a point g4, and the ear window is cut. The point g4 is linearly connected with the points p and p1 respectively, the midpoint of the line segments g4p and g4p1 is set as a point v and a point u respectively, the perpendicular lines of the line segments g4p and g4p1 are drawn from the point v and the point u to the points v1 and u1 respectively downwards (namely towards the angle pg4p 1), vv1 is equal to 0.5cm as u1, and the first group of arc lines g4r1p and the second group of arc lines g4u1p1 are connected by arc lines to form the lower end structure of the cap lug.
The structures of the eye window and the mouth window are both rectangular with round corners on one side, the eye window is positioned at the corner k2e2e3, the two vertical sides are positioned on k2e2 and e2e3, and the side of the mouth window with the two corners being right angles is positioned on e2e1 which is positioned at the position 8.0cm below the eye window. The side of the eye window lying on e2e1 was its height, 8cm, and the side parallel to k1e3 was its width, 7 cm. The side of the mouthpiece lying on e2e1 was its height, 7cm, and the side parallel to k1e3 was its width, 6 cm.
(S300) method for drawing insert-crotch cloth
And drawing a line segment 1-2, wherein the length of the line segment 1-2 is 0.431 cm to 160cm to 68.96cm, and the line segment is used for drawing the length of the insert crotch cloth. Perpendicular line segments drawing the line segment 1-2 from the point 1 to two opposite directions are the line segment 1-5 and the line segment 1-6, and the length of the line segment 1-5 is 0.067, the hip circumference is 0.067, 104cm is 6.968cm, and the line segment is used for drawing the width of the insert crotch cloth. The vertical line segment of the line segment 1-2 is drawn from the point 2 to two opposite directions to be a line segment 2-3 and a line segment 2-4, the line segment 2-3 and the line segment 1-6 are positioned on the same side of the line segment 1-2, the line segment 2-4 and the line segment 1-5 are positioned on the same side of the line segment 1-2, the length of the line segment 2-3 is 0.009 and the hip circumference is 0.009 and 104cm and 0.936cm, the line segment is used for drawing the front bottom edge width of the insert cloth, and the length of the line segment 2-4 is 0.019 and the hip circumference is 0.019 and 104cm and 1.976cm, and the line segment is used for drawing the back bottom edge width of the insert cloth.
Drawing a segment 5-7 perpendicular to the segment 1-5 from the point 5, wherein the segment 5-7 is 0.096 hip circumference 104cm 9.984cm for the crotch piece fabric crotch length. Drawing a vertical line segment 6-8 of the line segment 1-6 from the point 6, wherein the line segment 6-8 is 0.057 and the hip circumference is 104cm and 5.928cm, and the vertical line segment is used for drawing the crotch length of the insert crotch cloth. And drawing a bisected line segment 5-11 of an angle 1-5-7 from the point 5, wherein the line segment 5-11 is 0.038 and the hip circumference is 0.038 and 104cm and 3.952cm, and the bisected line segment is used for drawing the back crotch curvature of the insert crotch cloth. And drawing a bisected line segment 6-12 of an angle 1-6-8 from the point 6, wherein the line segment 6-12 is 0.019 and the hip circumference is 0.019 and 104cm and 1.976cm, and the bisected line segment is used for drawing the front crotch curvature of the insert crotch cloth. A vertical line segment 7-10 of a line segment 5-7 is drawn outward (upward in the figure) from the point 7, a vertical line segment 8-9 of a line segment 6-8 is drawn outward (downward in the figure) from the point 8, and the line segment 7-10 is 0.009, 0.936cm around the hip, and 0.936cm around the hip, for use in plotting the crotch slope.
The crotch cloth is composed of line segments 4-10, crotch cloth camber lines, line segments 3-9 and line segments 3-4, wherein the crotch cloth is composed of straight line connecting points 4 and 10, point segments 3 and 9, and the crotch cloth camber lines are composed of arc lines 10, 11, 1, 12 and 9.
(S400) pin cloth drawing method
The pin cloth is shaped into a diamond, the height of the diamond is 0.271, the hip circumference is 0.271, 104cm and 28.184cm, the width of the diamond is 0.098, the hip circumference is 0.098, 104cm and 10.192cm,
for drawing pin-out, the hypotenuse of the diamond is stitched to match line b1b2 on the body piece.
(S500) method for cutting body, hat, insert-and-insert cloth, and pin cloth
As shown in fig. 3 to 4, which are schematic diagrams of body cutting according to the present invention, a fabric is first folded in a radial direction and then folded in a weft direction, the length and width after folding are equal to the size of the body (/ the length of the sleeve), four layers of the fabric are cut along the shape of the body according to drawing of the body, then four layers of the fabric are cut according to a rear neckline arc, then the radial fabric is unfolded and then a front neckline arc is cut, and four layers of the fabric are cut under an armpit according to a line segment b1b 2.
And taking a piece of cloth to cut the pocket according to the drawing of the pocket in the body drawing.
As shown in fig. 8 to 13, the front crotch line is cut out from the body, a slit is cut out from the center of the lower part of the front body and is set to be as long as a line segment 3-9 on one side of the insert-crotch cloth, the back crotch line is cut out from the body, and a slit is cut out from the center of the lower part of the back body and is set to be as long as a line segment 4-10 on the other side of the insert-crotch cloth.
The shape of the insert crotch cloth is cut out from the blank cut out from the body piece according to the insert crotch cloth drawing, and the insert crotch cloth is respectively used as the insert crotch cloth on the left and right sides (see fig. 10-12). The shape of the pin cloth is cut out by the excess material obtained by cutting the body piece according to the pin cloth drawing, and the pin cloth is respectively used as the pin cloth under the armpits at the left side and the right side (see figure 12).
As shown in FIG. 5, the cap is obtained by cutting the surplus material obtained by cutting the body according to the drawing of the cap.
(S600) method of sewing body panel, hat, insert-and-insert piece, and pin piece
The cap sewing method comprises the following steps: referring to fig. 7, petals of the roof fall, an eye window, a mouth window, an ear window, a back middle part of the hat and the side of the hat are all adhered by sol. Wherein, the eye window material adopts transparent soft glass, the ear window and the mouth window adopt flock spraying cloth, and the cap material adopts coating gas-proof cloth.
The body sewing method comprises the following steps: the side seam of the body is sewed by adopting a flat seam stitch, the crotch cloth is respectively inserted and closed at the front and back crotch lines at the left and right sides of the cut body and is also sewed by adopting the flat seam stitch, the pin cloth is adhered at the armpit by adopting sol, and the cap is adhered at the neck pit of the clothes body by adopting sol. The zipper is arranged in the middle of the back body piece, so that the back body piece can be conveniently put on and taken off, and a layer of adhesive tape is arranged on the zipper for protection. Elastic bands are arranged at the positions of the collar, the cuffs, the waistline and the foot openings and are used for tightening.
While the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood that the above description should not be taken as limiting the invention. Various modifications and alterations to this invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art upon reading the foregoing description. Accordingly, the scope of the invention should be determined from the following claims.
Claims (10)
1. A method for drawing and cutting women's dress conjoined clothes is characterized by comprising the following steps: a method for drawing and cutting a body, a hat, insert-insert cloth and pin cloth; wherein the insert crotch cloth is arranged at the crotch of the body and is used for increasing the crotch structure of the trousers; the pin cloth is arranged at the armpit position of the body and used for increasing the moving angle of the sleeves;
the method for drawing the body comprises the following steps:
drawing a rectangle abcd, setting ab and cd as long sides of the rectangle, wherein the length of ab is equal to the length of cd, which is equal to the length of clothes +2.0cm, and the length of ad is equal to the length of bc, which is equal to 0.25, which is equal to the length of hip circumference +1.0 cm;
setting points c1 and c2 on the cd side, wherein the point c1 is used for drawing a rear straight neck, the point c2 is used for drawing a front straight neck, the length of a line segment cc1 is 0.05 head size, and the length of a line segment cc2 is 0.2 head size; setting a point c3 on the bc side, drawing a back horizontal open collar at a point c3, and setting the length of a line segment cc3 to be 0.2 of the head circumference size; a straight line connects the points c1 and c3, a midpoint h is drawn on a line segment c1c3, a segment perpendicular to the line segment c1c3 is drawn from the point h to h1, the point h1 is used for drawing a rear neckline arc, the length of the line segment hh1 is 0.025 head circumference, and the rear neckline arc is formed by connecting points c3, h1 and c1 of the arc;
a straight line connects points c2 and c3, a midpoint i1 is drawn on a line segment c2c3, a segment from the point i1, which is a perpendicular line of the line segment c2c3, to the point i, is used for drawing a front neckline arc, the length of the line segment i1i is 0.046 head circumference size, and the front neckline arc is formed by connecting points c3, i and c2 of the arc;
extending cb from point b to point f, wherein the length of the line segment cf is equal to the sleeve length plus 1.0cm and is used for drawing the sleeve length; from the parallel line of ba drawn at point f to point f1, the length of line segment ff1 is 0.15 × hip circumference size +1.0 for drawing the cuff; b1 point is set on the ab edge, b1 point is used for drawing armhole depth, and the length of the line segment bb1 is 0.25 × hip circumference size; the straight line connects the point f1 and the point b1, and the line segments bf, ff1 and f1b1 form sleeves;
setting a G point on an ab edge, wherein the length of a line segment bG is 0.41 mark, intersecting a cd edge with a perpendicular line segment from the G point to the ab edge at a G1 point, and GG1 is a hip contour line;
drawing a line segment b1b2 from a point b1 into the rectangle abcd, wherein an angle Gb1b2 is 180-1/2, an angle f1b1G, and the length of the line segment b1b2 is 0.144 in hip size, and the line segment b1b is used for drawing an underarm opening;
setting a point a1 on the ad edge, wherein the length of a line segment aa1 is 0.038 × hip circumference size, and the line segment is used for drawing the trouser leg opening;
the method for drawing a hat comprises:
a line segment k1e3 is drawn, and the length of k1e3 is equal to the head circumference/2 +3.5 cm; drawing a middle point g1 on a line segment k1e3, drawing a perpendicular line from points k1, e3 and g1 to points k, e and g of the line segment k1e3, respectively, wherein the length of k1k is equal to the length of e3e is equal to the length of g1g is equal to the length of k1e 3; points k2 and e2 are shown on k1k and e3e, respectively, and the length of kk2 is 0.16 × head circumference, ee2, for plotting hat width and height; from point e3, making an extension line of e2e3 to e1, and drawing a line segment e3e1 of 0.19 of head circumference of 0.19 of 60cm of 11.4cm for drawing the forehead lower end height of the hat;
connecting points k2 and e2 by a straight line, dividing a line segment k2e2 into four equal parts, generating four equal division points w, g3 and m from points k2 to points e2, connecting points k, w, g, m and e in sequence by the straight line to form an equal line segment, and wherein em is mg, gw, wk;
setting the middle points of the line segments em, mg, gw and wk as points n1, y1, z1 and x1 respectively, making vertical line segments of the line segments em, mg, gw and wk from the points n1, y1, z1 and x1 to the points n, y, z and x respectively, and obtaining an arc enm, an arc myg, an arc gzw and an arc wxk by arc connection to form a petal structure at the top end of the hat;
setting a point s, straight line connecting points s and k2 on a line segment k1g1, setting a midpoint t1 on a line segment sk2, making a perpendicular line of a line segment sk2 from the midpoint t1 to the point t, and forming a cap rear spoon structure by using arc connecting points k2, t and s;
drawing a line segment sp from a point s to the outside of a rectangle k2e2e3k1, wherein the angle g1sp is 0.127 × 180 × 22.86 degrees, the line segment sp is a back neckline arc c3h1c1-r1r/2 of the body, setting a center point r1 on the line segment sp, drawing a vertical line of the line segment sp from the center point r1 to the point r, forming a back neckline arc by using arc connecting points s, r and p, and enabling the length of the back neckline arc srp of the hat to be equal to the length of the back neckline arc c3h1c1 of the body;
a line segment e1p1 is drawn from a point e1, an angle e3e1p1 is 0.372 x 180 degrees and 66.96 degrees, a line segment e1p1 is a front body neckline arc c3ic2-q1q/2 is a front body neckline arc c3ic2-1.35, a middle point q1 is set on the line segment e1p1, a perpendicular line to q of the line segment e1g1 is drawn downwards from the middle point q1, the front hat neckline arc is formed by arc line connecting points e1, q and p1, and the length of the front hat neckline e1qp1 is equal to the length of the front body neckline arc c3 2;
the ear window of the hat is a circle which takes a point g4 as a circle center and is tangent to a point g3 and is used for cutting the ear window; connecting a point g4 with points p and p1 respectively in straight lines, setting the midpoints of line segments g4p and g4p1 as a point v and a point u respectively, drawing vertical lines of the line segments g4p and g4p1 from the point v and the point u to the points v1 and u1 from the point v and the point u respectively, and connecting a first group of arc lines g4r1p and a second group of arc lines g4u1p1 respectively by using arc lines to form a lower end structure of the cap ear;
setting the structures of the eye window and the mouth window to be rectangles with round corners on one side, wherein the eye window is positioned at a corner k2e2e3, the two vertical sides are positioned on k2e2 and e2e3, and the side, the two corners of the mouth window are both right angles, is positioned on e2e1 and is positioned 8.0cm below the eye window;
the method for drawing the insert crotch cloth comprises the following steps:
drawing a line segment 1-2, wherein the length of the line segment 1-2 is 0.431 for drawing the length of the insert cloth; drawing vertical line segments of the line segment 1-2 from the point 1 to two opposite directions to form a line segment 1-5 and a line segment 1-6 respectively, wherein the length of the line segment 1-5 is equal to the length of the line segment 1-6 is equal to 0.067 hip circumference, and the vertical line segments are used for drawing the width of the insert crotch cloth; drawing a vertical line segment of the line segment 1-2 from the point 2 to two opposite directions to form a line segment 2-3 and a line segment 2-4 respectively, wherein the line segment 2-3 and the line segment 1-6 are positioned on the same side of the line segment 1-2, the line segment 2-4 and the line segment 1-5 are positioned on the same side of the line segment 1-2, the length of the line segment 2-3 is 0.009 hip circumference and is used for drawing the width of the front bottom edge of the insert crotch cloth, and the length of the line segment 2-4 is 0.019 hip circumference and is used for drawing the width of the rear bottom edge of the insert crotch cloth;
drawing a vertical line segment 5-7 of the line segment 1-5 from the point 5, wherein the line segment 5-7 is 0.096 hip circumference and is used for drawing the crotch back length of the insert crotch cloth; drawing a vertical line segment 6-8 of the line segment 1-6 from the point 6, wherein the line segment 6-8 is 0.057 hip circumference and is used for drawing the crotch length of the insert crotch cloth; drawing a bisector segment 5-11 of an angle 1-5-7 from the point 5, wherein the segment 5-11 is 0.038 the hip circumference and is used for drawing the back crotch curvature of the insert crotch cloth; drawing a bisector line segment 6-12 of an angle 1-6-8 from the point 6, wherein the line segment 6-12 is 0.019 the hip circumference and is used for drawing the front crotch curvature of the insert crotch cloth; drawing a vertical line segment 7-10 of a line segment 5-7 from the point 7 to the outside, drawing a vertical line segment 8-9 of a line segment 6-8 from the point 8 to the outside, and drawing the crotch inclination of the insert crotch, wherein the line segment 7-10 is the line segment 8-9 is 0.009 the hip circumference;
respectively connecting points 4, 10 and points 3, 9 by straight lines, respectively connecting points 10, 11, 1, 12, 9 by arc lines to form crotch cloth bending arc lines, and forming crotch cloth by line segments 4-10, crotch cloth bending arc lines, line segments 3-9 and line segments 3-4;
the pin cloth drawing method comprises the following steps:
the pin cloth is shaped into a diamond, the height of the diamond is 0.271 and the hip circumference of the diamond is 0.098 and 104cm and 10.192cm, the hypotenuse of the diamond is a line segment b1b2 and is used for drawing the pin cloth, and the hypotenuse of the diamond is matched and sewn with a line segment b1b2 on the body;
the method for cutting the body piece, the hat, the insert piece cloth and the pin cloth comprises the following steps:
the cloth is firstly folded in the radial direction and then folded in the weft direction, four layers of cloth are cut along the shape of the body according to the drawing of the body, the four layers of cloth are cut according to the back neckline arc, then the radial cloth is unfolded and then the front neckline arc is cut, and the four layers of cloth are cut according to the line segment b1b2 under the armpit to obtain the body;
cutting a front crotch line on the body, setting a gap to be cut at the center of the lower part of the front body and the same length as the line segment 3-9 on one side of the insert crotch cloth, cutting a back crotch line on the body, setting a gap to be cut at the center of the lower part of the back body and the same length as the line segment 4-10 on the other side of the insert crotch cloth;
cutting the shape of the insert crotch cloth in the cloth according to the insert crotch cloth drawing, and using the insert crotch cloth as the insert crotch cloth on the left side and the right side;
cutting the shape of the pin cloth in the cloth according to the pin cloth drawing, wherein the pin cloth is used as pin cloth under the armpits on the left side and the right side;
and cutting the cloth according to the drawing of the hat to obtain the hat structure.
2. The method for drawing and cutting dress of women's clothing as claimed in claim 1, wherein in said drawing of said cap, said vertical line segment n1 n-y 1 y-z 1 z-x 1 x-2.5 cm.
3. The method for drawing and cutting dress of women's dress conjoined clothes according to claim 1, wherein in the drawing of the hat, the line segment k1s is 2.5 cm.
4. The method for drawing and cutting dress-ups for women's clothing as claimed in claim 1, wherein in said drawing of said hats, said line segment t1 t-0.5 cm, said line segment r1 r-0.5 cm, said line segment q1 q-2.7 cm, and said line segment vv 1-uu 1-0.5 cm.
5. A method for making body suits for women according to claim 1, wherein in the making of said hats, said ear windows are circles having a diameter of 10 cm.
6. The method for making and cutting dress for women's clothing as claimed in claim 1, wherein in said drawing of said cap, the side of said eye window on e2e1 is 8cm in height and the side parallel to k1e3 is 7cm in width; the side of the mouthpiece lying on e2e1 was its height, 7cm, and the side parallel to k1e3 was its width, 6 cm.
7. The method for drawing and cutting women's dress conjoined garments according to claim 1, wherein the method for drawing the body piece further comprises: and setting the distance between the bottom end of the pocket and the line GG1 to be 16cm, the opening of the pocket to be 18cm, the height of the pocket to be 17cm, and the lower corner of the pocket to be a round corner for drawing the pocket.
8. The method for making drawings and cutting women's dress conjoined clothes according to claim 1, wherein the sewing method of the body piece, the hat, the insert piece cloth and the pin cloth is as follows:
adhering petals, an eye window, a mouth window, an ear window, a back spoon of a hat, the hat sides g4p and g4p1 which are raised by adopting sol;
the side seam of the body is sewed by adopting a flat sewing stitch, the crotch cloth is respectively inserted and closed at the front and back crotch lines at the left and right sides of the cut body and is also sewed by adopting the flat sewing stitch, the pin cloth is adhered at the armpit by adopting sol, and the cap is adhered at the neck pit of the clothes body by adopting sol; the zipper is arranged in the middle of the back body piece, so that the back body piece is convenient to put on and take off.
9. A method for making drawings and cutting lingerie garment according to claim 8, wherein the eye window material is transparent soft glass, the ear window and mouth window are made of flock-sprayed cloth, and the cap material is made of coating poison-proof cloth.
10. A method of making and cutting dress as claimed in claim 8, wherein a layer of tape is provided over the zipper for protection; elastic bands are arranged at the positions of the collar, the cuffs, the waistline and the foot openings and are used for tightening.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN202010485431.7A CN111567969A (en) | 2020-06-01 | 2020-06-01 | Method for drawing and cutting women's clothing |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN202010485431.7A CN111567969A (en) | 2020-06-01 | 2020-06-01 | Method for drawing and cutting women's clothing |
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| CN111567969A true CN111567969A (en) | 2020-08-25 |
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| CN202010485431.7A Withdrawn CN111567969A (en) | 2020-06-01 | 2020-06-01 | Method for drawing and cutting women's clothing |
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Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN112841788A (en) * | 2021-01-22 | 2021-05-28 | 西京学院 | Drawing method for cap-connected men's toilet suit |
| CN117882907A (en) * | 2024-01-16 | 2024-04-16 | 波司登羽绒服装有限公司 | Drawing method of two-piece type hat |
-
2020
- 2020-06-01 CN CN202010485431.7A patent/CN111567969A/en not_active Withdrawn
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN112841788A (en) * | 2021-01-22 | 2021-05-28 | 西京学院 | Drawing method for cap-connected men's toilet suit |
| CN117882907A (en) * | 2024-01-16 | 2024-04-16 | 波司登羽绒服装有限公司 | Drawing method of two-piece type hat |
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Application publication date: 20200825 |