CN113080539A

CN113080539A - Method for tailoring T-shaped male sportswear

Info

Publication number: CN113080539A
Application number: CN202110390831.4A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 陈文强
Original assignee: Xijing University
Current assignee: Xijing University
Priority date: 2021-04-12
Filing date: 2021-04-12
Publication date: 2021-07-09

Abstract

The invention discloses a method for cutting T-shaped men's sportswear, which comprises a method for cutting front and back garment pieces, sleeve pieces, hats and pins. The front and back cut pieces, the sleeve pieces, the cap and the pins are cut on the T-shaped typesetting structure. The pin shaping belongs to the fish maw type and is used for being matched with the underarm cut to enhance the range of motion of the clothes sleeves. The structural shape of the hat is similar to that of a head brain spoon, and the edge of the hat opening is provided with a telescopic rope for tightening the hat edge. The sewing step of the T-shaped male sportswear comprises the following steps; sewing a garment piece, sewing a pocket, sewing pins and sewing a hat. The invention has the advantages that; firstly, a T-shaped structural drawing is adopted, the drawing steps of the sports wear are simplified, and the cutting efficiency is improved. Secondly, the pocket is manufactured by adopting a seam allowance rolling process, so that the sewing route is shortened. Thirdly, the adoption of the drawing method of the data of the cap circumference is beneficial to improving the coordination and the matching of all parts of the sportswear, and the method is worthy of popularization.

Description

Method for tailoring T-shaped male sportswear

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of garment manufacturing, and particularly relates to a method for cutting T-shaped male sportswear.

Background

The technical field of the technical field is common fabric, but the drawing is still performed by adopting a multi-specification and multi-data proportional method, so that the problems of low matching degree between sample plate structures, large cutting error, low sewing efficiency and the like of the knitted garment are caused. The traditional knitting men's sportswear is mostly made by adopting a tablet making method on the aspect of printing technology, and the cutting of the dispersible tablets can bring the difficulty of material discharge. More auxiliary means are needed, such as paper flat pressing technology, knitted fabric finishing technology, head pressing technology in the cutting process and dispersible tablet marking technology, and the large number of cut pieces causes bad phenomena of disordered matching and the like. The traditional knitting men's sports clothes have the disadvantages of high production cost and low qualification rate due to multiple steps, multiple sewing types, multiple applied equipment, complicated procedures and more bottleneck processes on the right in the garment piece and sleeve piece sewing technology. The traditional knitted sportswear for men is also multi-process in the pocket sewing technology, and is not beneficial to production.

Disclosure of Invention

Aiming at the defects in the prior art, the invention provides the method for tailoring the T-shaped male sportswear, which can effectively solve the problems, not only reduces the production cost, but also improves the production efficiency by adopting the T-shaped typesetting drawing on the tailoring method, and the scheme is worthy of popularization.

A method for cutting T-shaped men's sportswear comprises cutting front and back garment pieces, sleeve pieces, hat and pins. The front garment piece, the rear garment piece, the sleeve pieces, the cap and the pins are cut on the T-shaped typesetting structure. The front and back cut pieces and the sleeve pieces belong to an integrated structure, wherein the integrated structure comprises a neckline, an underarm cut and a pocket structure. The pin shaping belongs to the fish maw type and is used for being matched with the underarm cut to enhance the range of motion of the clothes sleeves. The structural shape of the hat is similar to that of a head brain spoon, and the edge of the hat opening is provided with a telescopic rope for tightening the hat edge. The sewing step of the T-shaped male sportswear comprises the following steps; sewing a garment piece, sewing a pocket, sewing pins and sewing a hat. The sewing type adopted by sewing the sportswear comprises two types of lock stitches and overedged stitches, and the sportswear is made of knitted materials. The cuffs and the hems of the sportswear are made of rib fabric, and the pockets are made by a seam allowance sewing process.

The invention is realized by the following technical scheme:

a method for tailoring T-shaped male sportswear comprises the following steps:

1) drawing of front and rear garment pieces and sleeve pieces

Drawing front and rear clothes length line sections ab and ac, wherein the line sections ab and ac form a vertex angle bac, the angle of the vertex angle bac is 2.386 multiplied by the length of the hat enclosure, the lengths of the line sections ab and ac are 1.145 multiplied by the length cm of the hat enclosure, the line sections bd and ce of the line sections ab and ac are respectively drawn, the lengths of the front and rear clothes swing line sections bd and ce are 0.5 multiplied by the length cm of the hat enclosure, the line sections dr and eh of the front and rear clothes swing line sections bd and ce are respectively drawn, the lengths of the line sections dr and eh are 0.485 multiplied by the length cm of the hat enclosure, the included angles between the line sections rl and hx and the line sections dr and eh are 1.35 multiplied by the length cm of the hat enclosure, the lengths of the line sections rl and hx are 0.7 multiplied by the length cm of the hat enclosure, and;

taking reverse angle lines of < drl and < ehx as line segments rr1 and hh1, the lengths of the line segments rr1 and hh1 are 0.35 multiplied by cap length cm, taking the middle points of the line segments rr1 and hh1 as perpendicular line segments k1k and g1g, the lengths of the line segments k1k and g1g are 0.018 multiplied by cap length cm, and curve connecting points rkr1 and hgh1 form front and rear arm cut;

points a1 and a2 are respectively taken on a line segment ab and ac, the length of the line segment aa1 is 0.186 multiplied by the cap length cm, the length of the line segment aa2 is 0.294 multiplied by the cap length cm, the line segment a1a2 forms a straight line of a collar, the midpoint of the line segment a1a2 is taken as a vertical line segment ff1, the length of the line segment ff1 is 0.163 multiplied by the cap length cm, and a curve connecting point a1f1a2 forms an arc of the collar;

cutting front and rear garment pieces according to points a2, c, e, h, x, l, r, d, b, a1 and f1, and respectively cutting front and rear armhole incisions rkr1 and hgh1 for sewing pins;

2) mapping of caps and pins

Taking a line segment xl as a base to be a rectangle as lxqp, taking the lengths of a hat height line segment lp and xq as 0.66 multiplied by the hat surrounding length cm, taking a point m on the line segment lp, taking the length of a hat top split potential line segment lm as 0.04 multiplied by the hat surrounding length cm, taking a point t on the line segment pq, taking a hat brim incoming line segment pt as 0.07 multiplied by the hat surrounding length cm, taking points n and y on the line segment lx and xq, taking the lengths of a hat brain spoon line segment xn and xy as 0.289 multiplied by the hat surrounding length cm, taking a line segment xy bisector as a line segment xo, taking the length of the hat corner line segment xo as 0.08 multiplied by the hat surrounding length cm, and forming a back brain spoon structure by curve hat connecting points m, n, o and y;

taking a point r on a line segment qx, wherein the length of a pin width line segment qr is 0.14 multiplied by cap length cm, drawing an isosceles triangle qrs1 according to the line segment qr, the lengths of the line segments rs1 and qs1 are 0.35 multiplied by cap length cm, taking the midpoint of the line segments rs1 and qs1 as a vertical line segment ws and vu, the lengths of the line segments ws and vu are 0.017 multiplied by cap length cm, connecting the lines s1sr and s1uq respectively to form arcs at two sides of the pin, cutting the pin structure according to the points m, n, o, y, r, s1 and t, and cutting the pin structure according to the points r, q, u, s1 and s;

3) drawing of garment piece pockets

A parallel line segment zz1 of a line segment eh is drawn on the front garment piece, the hz distance length is 0.087 multiplied by the cap circumference length cm, the pocket mouth large line segment zz1 length is 0.27 multiplied by the cap circumference length cm, a rectangular shape is drawn by taking a line segment zz1 as a long edge to form a pocket mouth, and the width is 1.0 cm;

4) pocket manufacturing method

Cutting the center of the opening of the welt, forming Y-shaped cuts at four corners, and turning over the back of the garment piece to make the pocket present a rectangle with a cavity;

cutting rectangular pocket cloth, forming round corners at two ends of a long side, arranging a notch on the other long side of the upper pocket cloth, wherein the distance between the notch and one of the short sides is the length of the pocket opening plus 3cm and is used for matching with the pocket opening, the edge of the upper pocket cloth is sewn by adopting a hemming seam allowance manufacturing process, the upper pocket cloth with the hemming seam allowance is aligned to the pocket opening on the back of a garment piece for sewing, the other lower pocket cloth is aligned to the inner side of the upper pocket cloth sewing pocket zz1, the two pocket cloths are sewn by adopting a five-thread bag sewing stitch, and knotted stitches are sewn at two ends of the pocket opening for sealing the pocket;

5) suture making

Aligning and sewing eh and rd side seams of the front and rear garment pieces, inserting the pins into the front and rear armhole incisions for sewing, manufacturing the other half garment piece by the same method and symmetrically sewing;

the obtained cap structure is symmetrically sewn, the outer ring is sewn by adopting a five-thread overlock stitch, the cap is sewn by adopting a seam rolling process in the fore-and-aft direction and is aligned with the front center and the rear center of the neckline of the garment piece.

The invention has the beneficial effects that:

the invention has simple structure and can rapidly cut the sports wear for men. Compared with the traditional cutting, the cutting belongs to a new cutting method, which comprises a cutting method of front and back garment pieces, sleeve pieces, hats and pins. The front and back cut pieces, the sleeve pieces, the cap and the pins are cut on the T-shaped typesetting structure. The front and back cut pieces and the sleeve pieces belong to an integrated structure, wherein the integrated structure comprises a neckline, an underarm cut and a pocket structure. The pin shaping belongs to the fish maw type and is used for being matched with the underarm cut to enhance the range of motion of the clothes sleeves. The structural shape of the hat is similar to that of a head brain spoon, and the edge of the hat opening is provided with a telescopic rope for tightening the hat edge. The sewing step of the T-shaped men's sportswear is as follows; sewing a garment piece, sewing a pocket, sewing pins and sewing a hat. The sewing type adopted by sewing the sportswear comprises two types of lock stitches and overedged stitches, and the sportswear is made of knitted materials. The cuffs and the hems of the sportswear are made of rib fabric, and the pockets are made by a seam allowance sewing process.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a schematic drawing of a garment of the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of a clipping structure according to the present invention;

FIG. 3 is a schematic view of the pocket fabric position of the present invention;

FIG. 4 is a schematic view of the pocket trim of the present invention;

FIG. 5 is a schematic view of the pocket mouth making of the present invention;

FIG. 6 is a schematic view of the seam of the pocket fabric of the present invention;

FIG. 7 is a schematic view of a pocket seam of the present invention;

FIG. 8 is a schematic view of the side seam sewing process of the present invention;

FIG. 9 is a schematic view of the pin stitching process of the present invention;

FIG. 10 is a schematic view of the rib fabric of the present invention;

FIG. 11 is a schematic view of the process for sewing a hat of the present invention;

FIG. 12 is a schematic view of the cap assembly process of the present invention;

fig. 13 is a schematic view of the process of installing the drawstring of the present invention.

Detailed Description

The technical solutions of the present invention will be described clearly and completely with reference to specific embodiments of the present invention, and it should be understood that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all of the embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.

As shown in fig. 1, the sports wear includes: garment piece vertex a, back garment length point b, front garment length point c, back garment pendulum point d, front garment pendulum point e, back collar point a1, front collar point a2, collar sag point f, collar curvature point f1, back underarm point r, front underarm point h, back underarm cut point r1, front underarm cut point h1, back underarm armhole sag point k1, front underarm armhole sag point g1, back underarm armhole curvature point k, front underarm gallery curvature point g, left cuff point l, right cuff point x, front cap length point p, back cap length point q, front cap point m, cap vertex point n, cap spoon point o, cap back point y, upper point r, upper sag point w, upper pin curvature point s, pin s stop point 1, lower pin sag point v, lower pin point u, cap slope point t, and large distance from pin z1, and is used for drawing clothes above and above points.

Referring to fig. 2, a drawing of front and back panels and sleeve panels is shown. The drawing of the front and back cut pieces and the sleeve pieces comprises line segments; setting the T-shaped vertex angle bac to 136.002 degrees, and calculating the method: 2.386 × 57. Setting front and back clothes length line segments ab-ac-65.265 cm, and calculating: 1.145 × 57. Setting the front and rear garment swing line segment bd to ce to 28.5 cm, and calculating: 0.5 multiplied by 57, and the cycloidal segment of the front and the back clothes is vertical to the long line segment of the front and the back clothes. Setting the front and rear side seam line segment dr as eh as 27.645 cm, and calculating: 0.485 x 57, with the front and back side seam line segments perpendicular to the front and back side seam line segments. Setting the line segment rl on the two sides of the sleeve to 39.9 centimeters, and calculating the method: 0.7 multiplied by 57, and the included angle formed by the side suture line segment and the sleeve line segment is equal to < drl > -ehx-76.95 degrees, and the calculation method comprises the following steps: 1.35 x 57, with straight connecting points lx forming the cuff (also cap width). Setting the notch line segment rr 1-hh 1-19.95 cm, the calculation method is as follows: 0.35 x 57, and the notched line segments rr1 and hh1 are on the reverse angle bisectors of < drl and < ehx, respectively. Setting the incision curvature line segment k1 k-g 1 g-1.026 cm, and calculating: 0.018 × 57, the incision curvature line segment is perpendicular to the incision line segment. The anterior and posterior armhole incisions are formed by connecting points rkr1 and hgh1 with arcs, respectively. Setting the front neckline deep line segment aa2 to be 16.758 cm, and calculating: 0.294 × 57, a back collar deep line segment aa1 is 10.602 cm, and the calculation method is as follows: 0.186X 57, and a neckline is formed by connecting the points a1a2 with line segments. Setting the neck curvature line segment ff1 to 9.291 cm, and calculating the method: 0.163 x 57, line ff1 is perpendicular to and bisects line a1a2, and the neckline arc is formed by the arc connection points a1f1a 2. The front and rear cut pieces are composed of points a2, c, e, h, x, l, r, d, b, a1 and f1, and the front and rear cut pieces belong to a hairlike plate. The front and rear armhole incisions rkr1 and hgh1 are cut open, respectively, for sewing the prongs.

Mapping of caps and pins. The cap and the pin drawing method comprises the following steps of (1) setting the cap drawing to be drawn according to a cuff line segment xl, drawing a cap and a pin rectangle to be lxqp, and a cap height line segment lp to be xq to be 37.62 cm, and calculating: 0.66X 57. Setting the cap top split line segment lm as 2.28 cm, and calculating the method: 0.04X 57. Setting the cap edge retraction line section pt to be 3.99 cm, and calculating: 0.07X 57. Setting the hat brain spoon line segment xn-xy-16.473 cm, and calculating: 0.289X 57, and connecting points m, n, o and y with arcs to form a back head structure of the hat. Setting the cap angle line segment xo to be 4.56 centimeters, and calculating the method: 0.08X 57. Setting the pin width line segment qr to 7.98 cm, and calculating: 0.14X 57. Drawing an isosceles triangle qrs1 according to the pin width line segment qr, wherein the two sides rs1 of the triangle are qs1 and 19.95 cm, and calculating: 0.35X 57. Setting the wire camber line segment ws to vu to 0.969 cm, and calculating the method: 0.017 multiplied by 57, the pin curvature line segment is vertical and bisects the two waist line segments of the triangle, and the arc lines are respectively connected with the points s1sr and s1uq to form the arc lines at the two sides of the pin for cutting the pin. The cap structure is made up of points m, n, o, y, r, s1, t. The pin structure is composed of points r, q, u, s1 and s, and the hat and the pins belong to a hairlike plate.

Referring to fig. 3-7, the pocket is manufactured. The pocket is manufactured by setting the length of pocket cloth to be 25 cm (fixed value), the width to be 17 cm (fixed value), and the upper and lower corners of the right side of the pocket cloth are in a round corner structure. The drawing method of the garment piece pocket sets the distance line hz between the upper end edge of the pocket to be 4.959 cm, and the calculation method comprises the following steps: 0.087X 57. The mouth and mouth large line segment zz1 is 15.39 cm, and the calculation method comprises the following steps: 0.27 multiplied by 57, the pocket shape belongs to a rectangular strip structure, the rectangular strip is a pocket spigot, and the width is 1.0 cm (fixed value). And adhering lining cloth to the positions of pockets of the garment pieces (adhered to the back surfaces of the garment pieces), wherein the size of the adhering lining cloth is 2.0 cm (fixed value) wider than the four circumferences of the rectangular strip structures of the pockets. According to the pocket manufacturing method, an opening is cut along the center of a rectangular strip of the pocket, and two Y-shaped notches are cut at the four corners of the rectangular strip. And ironing the cut parts to the back side of the garment piece by using an iron to enable the pocket to be in a hollow rectangular shape. And a cut is cut on the upper layer pocket cloth, the cut is positioned on the right side of the pocket cloth, the depth of the cut is 2.0 centimeters (fixed value), and the distance between the cut and the upper side of the pocket cloth is 3.0+ zz 1. The edge of the pocket cloth above the cut is manufactured by adopting a hemming seam allowance manufacturing process, the first hemming is 0.5 cm (fixed value), the second hemming is 1.5 cm (fixed value), a 0.1 cm (fixed value) open thread is sewn along the hemmed edge, and the pocket cloth is manufactured by adopting a flat seam stitch. The pocket cloth with the hemming seam allowance is aligned to the position of a pocket of a garment piece and is sewn with an open thread of 0.1 cm (fixed value), the lower pocket cloth is aligned to the inner side of a pocket zz1 sewn with the upper pocket cloth, and the pocket cloth is manufactured by flat sewing. The two layers of pocket cloth are sewn by adopting five-thread bag sewing stitches, the width of a sewing head is 1.0 cm (fixed value), and the two ends of the pocket are set to be knotted and sewn by using the stitches for the pocket sealing process.

Referring to fig. 9-10, the preparation of the garment pieces. The production of the garment piece sets the side seam and the sleeve bottom seam of the garment piece to be sewn by adopting five-thread overedged stitches, and the width of the seam head is 1.0 cm (fixed value). The pins are set to be inserted into the cut of the armhole of the garment piece, and 0.1 cm bright lines (fixed value) at the two sides of the pins are sewed on the front surface of the garment piece after five-line overedged stitch is adopted for sewing, so as to reinforce the pins. The cuff rib fabric is manufactured, the rib fabric is of a double-layer structure, the length of the rib fabric is one third less than that of cuffs xl of a garment piece, the width of the cuff rib fabric is 5.0 cm (a fixed value), the cuff rib fabric is sewn by adopting five-thread covered sewing stitches, the width of a sewing head is 1.0 cm (a fixed value), the cuff rib fabric needs to be stretched to be as long as the cuffs xl during sewing, and the sewn model belongs to a shirred cuff structure. The manufacturing process of the clothes pendulum rib fabric is the same as that of the cuff rib fabric, the length of the clothes pendulum rib fabric is (2bd +2ec) multiplied by 23, and the width of the clothes pendulum rib fabric is 5.0 cm (fixed value).

Referring to fig. 11 to 13, the cap is manufactured. The cap is manufactured by setting the outer ring of the cap to be sewn by adopting five-thread wrapping sewing stitches, and the width of the sewing head is 1.0 cm (fixed value). The hat is sewn by a seaming process, and the method is the same as the manufacturing process of the bag cloth hemming seam allowance. The assembled hat is sewn by matching with the neckline of the garment piece (front and back center alignment) and adopting five-thread overedged stitches, and the width of the sewing head is 1.0 cm (fixed value). A drawable rope is arranged in a hole punching opening at a position with a fixed distance of 3.0 cm (fixed value) in front of the hat and is used for tightening the face shape of the hat.

Although embodiments of the present invention have been shown and described, it will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that changes, modifications, substitutions and alterations can be made in these embodiments without departing from the principles and spirit of the invention, the scope of which is defined in the appended claims and their equivalents.

Claims

1. A method for tailoring T-shaped male sportswear is characterized by comprising the following steps:

1) drawing of front and rear garment pieces and sleeve pieces

2) mapping of caps and pins

3) suture making

2. The method of claim 1, wherein the drawing of the pockets comprises:

a parallel line zz1 of a line eh is drawn on the front garment piece, the hz distance is 0.087 multiplied by the cap length cm, the pocket mouth large line zz1 is 0.27 multiplied by the cap length cm, and a rectangular shape is drawn by taking the line zz1 as a long side to form a pocket mouth with the width of 1.0 cm.

3. The method as claimed in claim 2, wherein the method for making the pocket comprises:

cutting rectangular pocket cloth, rounding at two ends of a long edge, arranging an incision on the other long edge of the upper pocket cloth, enabling the incision and the distance of one short edge to be the length of a pocket opening plus 3cm and enabling the incision to be matched with the pocket opening, sewing the upper pocket cloth edge by adopting a hemming seam allowance manufacturing process, aligning the upper pocket cloth with the hemming seam allowance to the pocket opening on the back of a garment piece, sewing the other lower pocket cloth to be aligned with the inner edge of an upper pocket cloth sewing pocket zz1, sewing the two pocket cloths by adopting a five-thread bag sewing stitch, sewing the knotted stitches at two ends of the pocket opening and sealing the pocket.