CN111568831B - Composition of Chinese herbal medicine extract for skin cosmetics and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Composition of Chinese herbal medicine extract for skin cosmetics and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a composition of herbal extracts for skin cosmetics. The composition contains Chinese herbal medicine extracts of chrysanthemum, salix integra, angelica sinensis, pseudo-ginseng, astragalus membranaceus, glossy privet fruit, liquorice and elderberry, can be used for resisting skin aging, and has the effects of resisting wrinkles, oxidation and free radicals, increasing skin elasticity, reducing melanin content, whitening, improving skin glossiness and the like. The invention also relates to a preparation method of the composition of the Chinese herbal medicine extract and application of the composition in cosmetics, and further relates to cosmetics containing the composition of the Chinese herbal medicine extract.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a composition of Chinese herbal medicine extracts with skin cosmetic effect. The composition contains Chinese herbal medicine extracts of chrysanthemum, salix integra, angelica sinensis, pseudo-ginseng, astragalus membranaceus, glossy privet fruit, liquorice and elderberry, can be used for resisting skin aging, and has the effects of resisting wrinkles, oxidation and free radicals, increasing skin elasticity, reducing melanin content, whitening, improving skin glossiness and the like. The invention also relates to a method for preparing the composition of the Chinese herbal medicine extract and application of the composition in cosmetics, and further relates to cosmetics containing the composition of the Chinese herbal medicine extract.
Background
With the increasing aging of the population and the increasing attention of people to the appearance, skin care and anti-aging become important research points in the cosmetic field. As skin cells age with age, activity decreases; the skin is exposed to the external environment (e.g., uv radiation, air pollution, smoking, etc.), and in addition, excessive free radical formation results in decreased collagen expression by cells in the dermis or increased collagen hydrolases (e.g., matrix metalloproteinases MMPs), resulting in collagen breakdown and ECM degradation of the extracellular matrix, cells lacking collagen and fibrin support, sagging of the stratum corneum and epidermis to form wrinkles, decreased skin elasticity, decreased radiance, and dull skin tone, all of which are manifestations of skin aging.
The transcription factor AP-1 is an important regulation factor for MMP-1 expression, MMP-1 can degrade type I collagen and type III collagen, wherein the type I collagen accounts for 75% of the total amount of the protein in the dermis layer, and can help the skin to achieve corresponding mechanical strength and texture, and the type III collagen cooperates with the type I collagen to ensure that the skin is smooth and elastic; AP-1 can achieve the anti-aging effect of skin by regulating and reducing the expression of MMP-1, increasing the stretching and mechanical tension of fibroblasts and the toughness of I type collagen fibers.
In addition, dark circles and edema around eyes often occur after staying up all night, and fatigue causes problems such as dull and lusterless skin. Studies have shown that dark circles and edema around the eyes after staying up overnight are mainly due to local retention of water and melanin deposition caused by microcirculation disturbance around the eyes. Most of the currently adopted eye cosmetics have the problems of unobvious effect, adverse reaction and the like.
The current research begins to focus on the field of traditional Chinese herbal medicines which are relatively safe, but many cosmetic products containing Chinese herbal medicine extracts have some problems, such as high cost, difficult skin absorption, unobvious effect, low safety, unstable products, and the like. There is a great need for cosmetics containing herbal extracts that are efficacious, safe, and free of adverse reactions.
Disclosure of Invention
An object of the present invention is to provide a composition of herbal extracts with potent synergistic anti-aging effects on the skin. The composition of the invention contains extracts of Chinese herbal medicine types of chrysanthemum, salix integra, angelica, pseudo-ginseng, astragalus, glossy privet fruit, liquorice and elderberry.
It is another object of the present invention to provide a method for preparing a composition containing the herbal extract. The method can be used for respectively extracting one or more Chinese herbal medicines by taking chrysanthemum, salix purpurea, angelica, pseudo-ginseng, astragalus mongholicus, glossy privet fruit, liquorice and elderberry as raw materials, and then mixing the obtained extracts for preparation, or extracting the Chinese herbal medicines together for direct preparation.
The invention verifies the efficacy of the composition of the Chinese herbal medicine extract as the cosmetic through experiments. The composition provided by the invention has the effects of resisting aging, wrinkles, oxidation and free radicals, increasing skin elasticity, reducing melanin content, whitening skin, improving skin glossiness and the like. The invention also provides the application of the composition in cosmetics. The composition of the Chinese herbal medicine extract can be directly combined with a common cosmetic substrate to be used for preparing cosmetics. The cosmetic prepared according to the invention has stable components, obvious effect, safety and no toxic or side effect.
Detailed Description
In order to accurately understand the terms used in the present invention, the meanings of some of the terms are specifically defined below. To the extent that terms are not specifically defined herein, they have the meanings commonly understood and accepted by those skilled in the art. To the extent that a term defined herein has a meaning that is inconsistent with the commonly understood and accepted meaning of those skilled in the art, the meaning of that term is defined herein.
The term "herbal extract" as used herein refers to the product obtained by extracting the herbs in any suitable form, including herbal powders and micronized herbal powders, with a suitable solvent, and includes specific active ingredients and mixtures containing the active ingredients. The form of the extract includes, but is not limited to, solid, semi-solid, solution, suspension, concentrate, paste, and powder.
Chrysanthemum, which is a dried flower-like head, leaf or stem of a plant of the genus Glycyrrhiza or Bellis of the family Compositae, is preferably selected from the group consisting of Chrysanthemum Indicum (Chrysanthemum Indicum), chrysanthemum morifolium (Chrysanthemum lavandulifolium), chrysanthemum morifolium (Chrysanthemum morifolium) and Bellis perennis, and more preferably is a daisy.
The Asteris Lasiocladia (Asteris) is dried flower-like head sequence, leaf or stem of Asteris Lasiocladia (Hieracum krameri Franch. Et Sev.), asteris Lasiocladia (Hieracum umbellatum L.), or Asteris Lasiocladia (Hieracum Pilosella).
Angelica sinensis (oliv.) Diels is root or leaf of Angelica gigas nakai (Angelica sinensis) of Angelica of Umbelliferae family, angelica gigas nakai (Angelica archalica), angelica gigas nakai (Angelica Acutiloba), etc.
Notoginseng radix is dried root of Panax notoginseng (Burk.) F.H. Chen) belonging to Panax of Araliaceae.
Radix astragali is root of Astragalus membranaceus (Fisch.) bge.) of Astragalus of Leguminosae, such as Astragalus membranaceus (Fisch.) bge.
Fructus Ligustri Lucidi is mature fruit or seed of Ligustrum lucidum (Ligustrum lucidum) belonging to Ligustrum of Oleaceae.
The Glycyrrhrizae radix is dried root and rhizome of Glycyrrhiza uralensis (Glycyrrhiza uralensis), glycyrrhiza inflata (Glycyrrhiza inflata) or Glycyrrhiza glabra (Glycyrrhiza glabra) belonging to Glycyrrhiza of Leguminosae.
Sambucus Nigra is flower or fruit of Sambucus Nigra (Sambucus Williamsii Hance), sambucus Nigra (Sambucus Nigra) or Sambucus americana (Sambucus Canadensis) of Sambucus of Caprifoliaceae.
In an embodiment according to the present invention, there is provided a synergistic anti-skin aging herbal extract composition, the herbal extracts comprising:
10 to 50 parts of chrysanthemum, 5 to 30 parts of salix mongolica, 0.5 to 20 parts of angelica, 0.5 to 20 parts of pseudo-ginseng, 0.25 to 10 parts of astragalus, 0.25 to 15 parts of glossy privet fruit, 0.25 to 20 parts of liquorice and 1 to 25 parts of elderberry; preferably, 12 to 45 parts of chrysanthemum, 6 to 25 parts of salix purpurea, 0.5 to 10 parts of angelica, 0.5 to 10 parts of pseudo-ginseng, 0.5 to 7.5 parts of astragalus, 0.5 to 10 parts of glossy privet fruit, 0.5 to 7.5 parts of liquorice and 2.5 to 20 parts of elderberry; more preferably, 15 to 40 parts of chrysanthemum, 7 to 20 parts of salix purpurea, 1 to 5 parts of angelica, 1 to 5 parts of pseudo-ginseng, 0.5 to 2.5 parts of astragalus, 0.5 to 2.5 parts of glossy privet fruit, 0.5 to 2.5 parts of liquorice and 5 to 10 parts of elderberry.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing a composition containing the extract of the herb materials. In the method, one or more Chinese herbal medicine raw materials can be respectively extracted by taking chrysanthemum, salix mongolica, angelica sinensis, pseudo-ginseng, astragalus membranaceus, glossy privet fruit, liquorice and elderberry as raw materials, and then the obtained extracts are mixed for preparation, or the Chinese herbal medicine raw materials are extracted together for direct preparation. The weight ratio of each Chinese herbal medicine raw material or Chinese herbal medicine extract is as follows: 10-50 parts of chrysanthemum, 5-30 parts of salix purpurea, 0.5-20 parts of angelica, 0.5-20 parts of pseudo-ginseng, 0.25-10 parts of astragalus membranaceus, 0.25-15 parts of glossy privet fruit, 0.25-20 parts of liquorice and 1-25 parts of elderberry; preferably, 12 to 45 parts of chrysanthemum, 6 to 25 parts of salix mongolica, 0.5 to 10 parts of angelica, 0.5 to 10 parts of pseudo-ginseng, 0.5 to 7.5 parts of astragalus, 0.5 to 10 parts of glossy privet fruit, 0.5 to 7.5 parts of liquorice and 2.5 to 20 parts of elderberry; more preferably, 15 to 40 parts of chrysanthemum, 7 to 20 parts of salix purpurea, 1 to 5 parts of angelica, 1 to 5 parts of pseudo-ginseng, 0.5 to 2.5 parts of astragalus, 0.5 to 2.5 parts of glossy privet fruit, 0.5 to 2.5 parts of liquorice and 5 to 10 parts of elderberry.
In an embodiment according to the invention, the extract of the invention is a water and/or C2-4 alcohol extract and the solvent for extraction is water, C2-4 alcohol or a combination thereof. The C2-4 alcohol is preferably ethanol, propanol, propylene glycol, n-butanol or a combination thereof, more preferably propylene glycol and ethanol, with 1, 3-propanediol being a commonly used propylene glycol. Optionally, one or more of the pulverized Chinese medicinal materials are extracted with water, the other one or more of the Chinese medicinal materials are extracted with 20-85% C2-4 alcohol water solution, and the extracts are mixed to obtain the extract composition. In a further preferred embodiment, the aqueous C2-4 alcohol solution is a 20% to 85%, preferably 40% to 70% aqueous C2-4 alcohol solution. More preferably, the aqueous solution of C2-4 alcohols is an aqueous solution of 20% to 85%, preferably 40% to 70%, propylene glycol and/or ethanol.
In a further embodiment, the extract composition obtained above is subjected to ultrafiltration by a microfiltration membrane for purification, preferably by filtration using a 0.1 to 10 μm, more preferably 0.22 to 1 μm microfiltration membrane, and the solvent is recovered to obtain a concentrate.
In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention is composed of a preparation 1, a preparation 2 and a preparation 3, wherein the preparation 1 contains extracts of chrysanthemum and salix purpurea, the preparation 2 contains extracts of angelica, notoginseng, astragalus, glossy privet fruit and liquorice, and the preparation 3 contains elderberry extract.
In the preferred embodiment of the invention, chrysanthemum and salix purpurea are taken as raw materials for extraction to obtain a preparation 1; extracting radix Angelicae sinensis, notoginseng radix, radix astragali, fructus Ligustri Lucidi and Glycyrrhrizae radix to obtain preparation 2; extracting elderberry serving as a raw material to obtain a preparation 3; the three preparations are then combined to produce the composition of the present invention.
In a more preferred embodiment of the invention, chrysanthemum and salix purpurea are taken as raw materials and extracted by 20-85% of C2-4 alcohol aqueous solution to obtain a preparation 1; extracting radix Angelicae sinensis, notoginseng radix, radix astragali, fructus Ligustri Lucidi and Glycyrrhrizae radix with water to obtain preparation 2; extracting elderberry serving as a raw material by using a 20-85% C2-4 alcohol aqueous solution to obtain a preparation 3; the three preliminary phases are then mixed to produce the composition of the invention.
In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, chrysanthemum and salix integra are used as raw materials and are extracted by using 20% -85%, preferably 40% -70% of ethanol aqueous solution to obtain a preparation 1; extracting radix Angelicae sinensis, notoginseng radix, radix astragali, fructus Ligustri Lucidi and Glycyrrhrizae radix with water to obtain preparation 2; extracting elderberry serving as a raw material with 20-85 percent, preferably 40-70 percent of ethanol water solution to obtain a preparation 3; the three preliminary phases are then mixed to produce the composition of the invention.
In another embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention is prepared by extracting all the Chinese herbal medicine materials including chrysanthemum, salix integra, angelica sinensis, notoginseng, astragalus membranaceus, fructus ligustri lucidi, liquorice and elderberry together, wherein the extract is 20% -85% aqueous solution of C2-4 alcohol, preferably 20% -85% aqueous solution of ethanol, and more preferably 40% -70% aqueous solution of ethanol.
In a further embodiment according to the invention, the herbal materials are crushed, weighed and mixed before extraction. The mesh number of the pulverized Chinese herbal medicine raw materials is preferably 10-200 meshes, more preferably 10-80 meshes, and more preferably 10-50 meshes.
In a preferred embodiment, the herbal extract composition of the present invention is prepared according to the following method:
1) Pulverizing various Chinese herbal medicine raw materials, weighing according to weight ratio, and mixing well; the number of the crushed Chinese herbal medicine raw materials is preferably 10-200 meshes, more preferably 10-80 meshes, and more preferably 10-50 meshes;
2) Extracting the crushed Chinese herbal medicine raw materials by adopting water and/or 20-85% of C2-4 alcohol aqueous solution to obtain an extracting solution; volatilizing the solvent to obtain a concentrated solution;
alternatively, the concentrate is adjusted to 100% with water, i.e.: adjusting the weight of the concentrated solution to be equal to the weight of the Chinese herbal medicine materials adopted at first;
* Concentration label = Chinese herbal material weight/final concentrate weight 100%
3) Alternatively, treatment with polyol/water: mixing the concentrated solution with polyalcohol and/or water, cooling to below 30 deg.C, vacuum filtering or filtering with filter membrane, and collecting filtrate to obtain mixture of Chinese herbal medicine extract; wherein the polyol is selected from the group consisting of butylene glycol and propylene glycol, commonly 1, 3-butylene glycol and 1, 3-propylene glycol; the mass ratio of the concentrated solution to the mixture of the polyhydric alcohol and the water is 1 (0-3): (0-3), preferably 1 (0-1): (0-1), more preferably 1:0.5:0.5;
4) Optionally, performing ultrafiltration by using a microporous filter membrane for purification, and recovering the solvent to obtain a filtrate; preference is given to using 0.1 to 10 μm, more preferably 0.22 to 1 μm, microfiltration membranes;
5) Optionally, sterilizing at high temperature, cooling to below 30 deg.C to obtain the composition of the Chinese herbal extract of the present invention; preferably, the sterilization temperature is 80-100 ℃, more preferably 80-90 ℃; the sterilization time may be 20-60min, preferably 30-45min.
Wherein the water extraction method comprises: pulverizing Chinese herbal medicine raw materials to be extracted by water, weighing according to a weight ratio, mixing with water according to a mass ratio of 1-1; concentrating, preferably concentrating the filtrate at 40-60 deg.C under reduced pressure, and volatilizing water to obtain concentrated solution.
Wherein the alcohol aqueous solution extraction method comprises: crushing Chinese herbal medicine raw materials to be extracted by the alcohol-water solution, weighing according to the weight ratio, mixing, carrying out reflux extraction with the alcohol-water solution, cooling to below 30 ℃, and carrying out vacuum filtration; wherein the mass volume ratio of the raw material to the alcohol aqueous solution is 1; the alcohol aqueous solution is 20-85%, preferably 40-70% of C2-4 alcohol aqueous solution; preferably the aqueous alcohol solution is a 20% to 85%, more preferably 40% to 70% aqueous solution of propylene glycol and/or ethanol; evaporating the solvent from the solution mixture obtained after suction filtration to obtain a concentrated solution; preferably, the evaporation is carried out by rotary evaporation, the temperature of the rotary evaporation is usually 40-80 ℃, preferably 50-70 ℃, and the evaporation time is usually 1-5h, preferably 1-3h.
It should be noted that in the cosmetic according to the present invention, the weight ratio of each herb extract may be calculated as the dry weight of the extract, but solutions, semisolids, suspensions, concentrates, pastes, and powders containing the extract are often used in the preparation process.
In the embodiment of the present invention, alternatively, the extracts may be obtained by separately extracting the individual herb materials, and then combining the obtained extracts, thereby obtaining the herb extract composition of the present invention. The Chinese herbal materials can be extracted by known extraction methods, but preferably, the extraction is performed by the method described in the present specification. The cosmetic prepared by the method has stable components, obvious effect, safety and no toxic or side effect.
In an embodiment of the invention, said amount of extraction solvent, extraction time and number of extractions are not absolute, i.e. corresponding parameter values outside and close to said ranges also achieve the object of the invention. Such obvious variations are within the scope of the present invention.
One skilled in the art will recognize that one or more steps may be added to the above method steps in order to facilitate the achievement of the objectives of the present invention. For example, the herbal materials may be soaked for a period of time prior to extraction, or may be physically processed to facilitate extraction of the active substances. Such obvious variations are within the scope of the present invention.
Those skilled in the art will appreciate that, based on the disclosure of the present specification, the Chinese herbal medicine extract suitable for the present invention can be prepared by extracting the Chinese herbal medicine materials individually or in combination; the Chinese herbal medicine extract composition can also be obtained by purchasing one or more Chinese herbal medicine active extracts adopted by the invention from commercial sources and then combining the Chinese herbal medicine active extracts with the rest Chinese herbal medicine active extracts. Such obvious variations are within the scope of the present invention.
The composition containing the herbal extract of the present invention can be widely used for preparing cosmetics in the form of cream, lotion, paste, ointment, pack, gel, lotion, etc. Can be prepared into skin lotion, essence, facial mask, stock solution, ampoule, lotion, cream, eye cream, etc., preferably cream and eye cream, more preferably eye cream, by mixing with matrix, adjuvant, carrier, additive, etc. known in the art according to conventional method. The content of the composition of the chinese herbal medicine extract in the cosmetic may be, for example, about 0.1 to 20%, preferably 1 to 15%, more preferably 2 to 8% by weight. The concentration can be adjusted by those skilled in the art according to the actual situation and need.
The cosmetic of the present invention may further comprise one or more other ingredients such as other herbal extracts, nutritional additives, surfactants, perfumes and fragrances, pigments, preservatives, antioxidants, moisturizers, ultraviolet absorbers, astringents, penetration aids, pH regulators, and the like. The skilled person will be able to select them on the basis of their general knowledge and specific needs.
In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic product of the invention contains one or more of the following ingredients:
a humectant selected from one or more of: glycerol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, sorbitol, betaine, glycerol polyacrylate, trehalose, urea, serine, methyl gluceth-20, polyvinylpyrrolidone, sodium hyaluronate, sodium polyglutamate, 1, 2-pentanediol, octylene glycol, hexylene glycol.
An emulsifying thickener selected from one or more of: hydrogenated lecithin, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, sodium polyacrylate, hydrogenated polydecene, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, sorbitan isostearate, polysorbate-60, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, sodium polyacrylate grafted starch, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, carbomer, acrylic acid/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer, polyglycerol-3-methylglucyldistearate, ceteareth-20, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, PEG-75 stearate, ceteareth-20, steareth-20, cetearyl olive oleate, sorbitan olive oleate.
A skin conditioning agent selected from one or more of: dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, glyceryl polyether-26, citric acid, C13-14 isoparaffin, laureth-7, polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10/15 cross-linked polymer, tapioca starch, chinlon-12, silica and arginine.
An emollient selected from one or more of: tocopheryl acetate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, olive shell oil, shea butter, sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, cetearyl ethyl hexanoate, squalane, camellia oil, pentaerythritol distearate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, triglycerides of C10-18 fatty acids.
An antioxidant selected from one or more of: p-hydroxyacetophenone, pentaerythritol tetrakis (bis-tert-butylhydroxyhydrocinnamate) and tocopherol (vitamin E).
Chelating agent: disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA;
a pH adjusting agent selected from one or more of: triethanolamine, sodium hydroxide, tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine, arginine;
aromatics, (daily use) essences.
A preservative selected from one or more of: bis (hydroxymethyl) imidazolidinyl urea, phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, methylparaben.
In a more preferred embodiment, the cosmetic of the present invention may be prepared by separately preparing the aqueous phase component and the oil phase component, heating, stirring and mixing, homogenizing, holding for a period of time, cooling, adding the neutralized phase, continuing to cool, adding the phase containing the extract of the Chinese herbal medicine of the present invention, adjusting the pH to 5.0-7.0, and discharging after detection. For example, the aqueous phase may contain the following ingredients: 3-10% of glycerin, 2-8% of 1, 3-butanediol, 1-5% of betaine, 0.05-0.2% of xanthan gum, 0.1-0.05% of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 1-3% of glyceryl polyether, 0.01-0.1% of sodium hyaluronate, 0.01-0.2% of sodium polyglutamate, 0.5-2% of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, 0.01-0.2% of sorbitan isostearate, 0.01-0.2% of polysorbate-60, 0.02-0.1% of disodium EDTA and 0.2-1% of p-hydroxyacetophenone. The oil phase may contain the following ingredients: 1-5% of squalane, 0.2-1.0% of tocopherol acetate, 0.1-1.5% of hydrogenated lecithin, 1.0-5.0% of C10-18 fatty acid triglyceride, 0.5-3.0% of cetearyl alcohol olive oleate, 0.5-3.5% of sorbitan olive oleate, 1.0-3.0% of C13-14 isoparaffin and 0.1-0.8% of laureth-7. The neutralizing phase may contain 0.01-0.5% tetrahydroxypropylethylenediamine. The phase containing the herbal extract of the invention may also contain hexylene glycol 0.2-1.0% or other skin conditioning agents.
The safety of the cosmetic of the present invention was tested by performing a patch test on human skin according to technical specification for cosmetic safety 2015 edition.
According to the composition containing the multiple Chinese herbal medicine extracts and the composition containing the same, the expression of the AP-1 factor can be regulated, so that the effects of resisting wrinkles, oxidation and free radicals, increasing skin elasticity, reducing melanin content, whitening skin, improving skin glossiness and the like in cosmetics are achieved, and an unexpected strong skin anti-aging effect is achieved. The test of the patch on the human body proves that the composition is mild to the human body, does not cause irritation to the skin, and has good safety and no toxic or side effect.
In a specific embodiment, the composition of the present invention is prepared into an eye cream, and tests show that the composition has the effects of reducing melanin, lightening dark eye circles, brightening skin color, reducing wrinkles and the like.
Drawings
FIG. 1: shows the experimental results of the test sample for reducing the signal of the senescence factor AP-1;
FIG. 2: the experimental result of the test sample on the reduction of the melanin around the eyes is shown;
FIG. 3: the effect of the test samples on reducing periocular wrinkles is shown.
Detailed description of the preferred embodiments
The present invention will be described in further detail with reference to examples.
I. Preparation examples
Comparative example 1 (preparation 1):
weighing Chinese herbal medicine raw materials, namely 4 parts of daisy (Bellis perennis) and 2.5 parts of salix mongolica (Hieracium Pilosella), crushing the raw materials into 40-mesh powder, mixing, adding 70% ethanol according to a mass volume ratio of 1; rotary evaporating at 65 deg.C to remove solvent to obtain concentrated solution, cooling to below 30 deg.C, and adjusting the concentration of the concentrated solution to 100% with water; mixing the concentrated solution with butanediol and water in a proportion of 1:0.5: mixing at a mass ratio of 0.5, vacuum filtering with 0.22 μm microporous membrane, sterilizing the filtrate at 85 deg.C for 30min, and cooling.
Comparative example 2 (preparation 2):
weighing Chinese herbal medicine raw materials, namely 2.5 parts of Chinese Angelica (Angelica sinensis), 2 parts of pseudo-ginseng (Panax notoginseng), 1 part of Astragalus (Astragalus membranaceus) 1 part, 1 part of glossy privet fruit (Ligustrum lucidum) and 1 part of liquorice (Glycyrrhiza uralensis), crushing the raw materials into 20-mesh powder, mixing, adding pure water according to a mass volume ratio of 1; performing rotary evaporation at 65 deg.C to obtain concentrated solution, cooling to below 30 deg.C, and adjusting the concentration of the concentrated solution to 100% with water; mixing the concentrated solution with butanediol and water in a proportion of 1:0.5: mixing at a mass ratio of 0.5, vacuum filtering with 0.22 μm microporous membrane, sterilizing the filtrate at 85 deg.C for 30min, and cooling.
Comparative example 3 (preparation 3):
weighing Chinese herbal medicine raw materials, namely 7 parts of elderberry (Sambucus Nigra), crushing the raw materials into powder of 40 meshes, adding 70% ethanol according to the mass volume ratio of 1 to 18 for reflux extraction, carrying out hot reflux extraction at 55 ℃ for 120min, cooling to below 30 ℃, and carrying out vacuum filtration to obtain filtrate; rotary evaporating at 50 deg.C to remove solvent to obtain concentrated solution, cooling to below 30 deg.C, and adjusting the concentration of the concentrated solution to 100% with water; mixing the concentrated solution with 1, 3-propanediol and water at a ratio of 1:0.5, vacuum filtering with 0.22 μm microporous membrane, sterilizing the filtrate at 85 deg.C for 30min, and cooling.
Comparative example 4:
the preparation 1 and the preparation 2 obtained by the methods of comparative examples 1 and 2 were mixed at a mass ratio of 6.
Comparative example 5:
the preparation 2 and the preparation 3 obtained by the methods of comparative examples 2 and 3 were mixed at a mass ratio of 1.
Comparative example 6:
the preparation 1 and the preparation 3 obtained by the methods of comparative examples 1 and 3 were mixed at a mass ratio of 6.
Example 1:
the preparation 1, the preparation 2 and the preparation 3 obtained by the methods of comparative examples 1,2 and 3 were mixed at a mass ratio of 6.
Example 2:
weighing Chinese herbal medicine raw materials, 20 parts of daisy, 10 parts of salix mongolica, 3 parts of angelica, 3 parts of pseudo-ginseng, 1.5 parts of astragalus membranaceus, 1.5 parts of glossy privet fruit, 1.5 parts of liquorice and 9 parts of elderberry, crushing the raw materials into 40-mesh powder, adding 60% ethanol according to the mass volume ratio of 1; performing rotary evaporation at 60 deg.C to remove solvent to obtain concentrated solution, cooling to below 30 deg.C, and adjusting the concentration of the concentrated solution to 100% with water; mixing the concentrated solution with propylene glycol and water in a ratio of 1:0.5: mixing at a mass ratio of 0.5, vacuum filtering with 0.45 μm microporous membrane, sterilizing the filtrate at 85 deg.C for 30min, and cooling to obtain Chinese medicinal composition.
Example 3:
1. weighing 30 parts of daisy, crushing the daisy into 40-mesh powder, adding 65% ethanol according to the mass volume ratio of 1; rotary evaporating at 65 deg.C to remove solvent to obtain concentrated solution, cooling to below 30 deg.C, and adjusting the concentration of the concentrated solution to 100% with water; mixing the concentrated solution with butanediol and water in a ratio of 1:0.5:0.5, vacuum filtering with 0.45 μm microporous membrane, sterilizing the filtrate at 85 deg.C for 30min, and cooling.
Respectively weighing 15 parts of salix davidii and 8 parts of elderberry, and performing separate extraction by the same extraction method as that of a daisy, wherein the extract is used for later use after extraction.
2. Weighing 4 parts of angelica, crushing the raw materials into 20-mesh powder, mixing, adding pure water according to the mass volume ratio of 1; performing rotary evaporation at 65 ℃ to obtain a concentrated solution, cooling to below 30 ℃, and adjusting the labeled concentration of the concentrated solution to 100% by using water; mixing the concentrated solution with butanediol and water in a ratio of 1: mixing at a mass ratio of 0.5, vacuum filtering with 0.22 μm microporous membrane, sterilizing the filtrate at 85 deg.C for 30min, and cooling.
Weighing 4 parts of pseudo-ginseng, 2 parts of astragalus, 2 parts of glossy privet fruit and 2 parts of liquorice respectively, extracting separately by the same extraction method as that of the angelica, and taking the extract for later use after the extract is finished.
3. The daisy, the salix davidii, the angelica, the pseudo-ginseng, the astragalus membranaceus, the glossy privet fruit, the liquorice and the elderberry extract which are extracted independently are mixed according to the following ratio of 1.
Activity Effect test
2.1. Experiment reagent and equipment
A-Hacat cells (Hacat cells containing the transcription factor AP-1), DMEM medium (SIGMA), serum, incubator (Samerfei), luciferase reader (Meigu MD), luciferase assay kit (purchased from Shanghai Yiying Biotechnology Ltd.), DPBS, pancreatic enzymes (SIGMA), 96-well plate.
2.2. Sample to be tested
Test samples of example 1: an appropriate amount of the composition of the herbal extracts prepared in example 1 was added to DMEM medium to prepare a sample to be tested having a sample concentration of 1% (v/v).
The test samples of examples 2 to 3 and comparative example were prepared in the same manner as in example 1.
Table 1:
reagent: TNF-alpha (10 ng/ml)
2.3. Experimental method
Cultured A-Hacat cells were removed from the incubator, digested and centrifuged to prepare a cell suspension, adjusted to a cell density of 2 × 105 cells/ml, and 135 μ l per well, inoculated into a 96-well plate, and cultured for 24 hours. 15. Mu.l of a pre-prepared sample to be tested (examples 1 to 3, comparative example 1, comparative example 2 and comparative example 3) at a specific concentration was added to the well plate, the culture was continued for 12 to 24 hours with Duchen phosphate buffer DPBS as a blank, and 16.5. Mu.l of TNF-. Alpha.was added to each well of the well plate (3 blank wells with DPBS added thereto were left to add an equal volume of DPBS as a negative control). And (4) continuing culturing for 24 hours, discarding the culture solution after the culture is finished, adding 100 mu l of lysis solution (obtained from the luciferase detection kit, see kit use instructions) into each hole of the hole plate, operating according to the luciferase detection kit instructions, and putting the hole plate into a luciferase labeling instrument to read the value in a Lum mode.
2.4. Results of the experiment
The results of the experiment are shown in FIG. 1 and Table 1. It can be seen that the samples to be tested in example 1, example 2 and example 3 can significantly reduce the expression of the aging factor AP-1 signal, the activity data is obviously superior to that of all comparative examples, and the effect of example 1 is most obvious; the test samples of comparative example 1, comparative example 4 and comparative example 6 could reduce the expression of senescence factor AP-1 signal to some extent, while comparative example 2, comparative example 3 and comparative example 5 failed to reduce senescence factor AP-1 signal.
The combination of the above results shows that the composition of the Chinese herbal medicine extract has a synergistic effect in the aspect of inhibiting the expression of the anti-aging factor AP-1, and can jointly inhibit the expression of the AP-1 anti-aging factor. The composition obtained according to the herbal combination and extraction of example 1 significantly reduced the AP-1 signal and achieved the best inhibition.
Formulation examples (eye cream)
Formulation example 1 (eye cream):
3.1. composition (in weight percent of the preparation):
phase A component: 5% of glycerin, 3% of 1, 3-butanediol, 3% of betaine, 0.1% of xanthan gum, 0.2% of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 26% of glyceryl polyether, 0.05% of sodium hyaluronate, 0.05% of sodium polyglutamate, 1.2% of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, 0.07% of sorbitan isostearate, 0.07% of polysorbate-60, 0.1% of carbomer, 0.1% of disodium EDTA, 0.6% of p-hydroxyacetophenone and 85% of water;
b phase component: 2% of squalane, 1% of tocopherol acetate, 1.0% of hydrogenated lecithin, 2% of C10-18 fatty acid triglycerides, 1% of cetearyl olive oleate, 1.5% of sorbitan olive oleate, 2% of C13-14 isoparaffin and 0.5% of laureth-7;
phase C component including tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine 0.1%;
and (3) phase D component: 3% of the herbal extract of example 1, 0.5% hexylene glycol.
Comparative formulation example (eye cream) 1:
compared with the eye cream of formulation example 1, the components and processes are the same as those of the eye cream of formulation example 1 except that the herbal extracts prepared in example 1 are not added.
3.2. The preparation method comprises the following steps:
1) Dispersing xanthan gum and sodium hyaluronate in phase A in water, adding other raw materials in phase A after completely dispersing, raising the temperature to about 85 ℃, and stirring for later use;
2) Sequentially adding the phase B components into another container, raising the temperature to about 85 ℃, and stirring for dissolving for later use;
3) Adding phase B into phase A, stirring, homogenizing, defoaming, and cooling to about 60 deg.C;
4) Adding the phase C component to adjust the pH value, and continuously stirring and cooling;
5) Cooling to below 30 deg.C, adding phase D component, stirring, adjusting pH to 5.5-6.5, adding water to adjust weight to 100%, testing, discharging, and packaging to obtain eye cream.
3.3. Safety test
The human skin closed patch test was performed according to the technical Specification for safety of cosmetics 2015.
Adhesive tape for spot pasting: finn chambers on Scanpor-8mm (Smart Practice, USA)
Hospital skin pen: for locating and marking skin
Selection of subjects: 31 volunteers, namely 19-60 years old healthy Chinese
The experimental method comprises the following steps: the eye cream of formulation example 1 was placed in a spot tester in an amount of about 0.025g, the control well was a blank control (no substance placed), and the spot tester with the eye cream of formulation example 1 added was applied to the back of the subject with a non-irritating tape and applied evenly to the skin with a light pressure of the palm for 24 hours. 30min after removing the eye cream spot tester of formulation example 1, the skin reaction was observed after the indentation disappeared. If the result is negative, the test is observed once more at 24h and 48h after the patch test.
The entire test period was three days. The volunteers were subjected to skin screening (BL) of the test area by the staff before spot-pasting. And selecting a skin area without influence evaluation factors for spot pasting. After application, the sample area was marked on the non-applied area with a medical skin pen. In order to prevent the spot tester from falling off, the periphery of the spot tester can be fixed by medical adhesive tapes. After 24 hours of patch application (i.e., next day visit), the patch was removed by the staff and the crosshairs were marked underneath for evaluation by the physician. And (4) resting for more than half an hour, and performing doctor evaluation after the print of the spot tester of the area to be tested disappears (T0.5). After 24 hours of removal of the patch tester, the clinician assesses the skin response of the product in this area according to the markings of the medical skin pen (T24).
Test results
TABLE 2
Table 2 the test results can conclude that a total of 31 volunteers participated in and completed the test, completing 31 valid data. The eye cream of formulation example 1 according to the invention did not show any skin reaction after 30 minutes nor after 24 hours. The cosmetic does not cause adverse skin reactions to human bodies within the range allowed by the judgment standard, which shows that the eye cream of the preparation example 1 and the composition of the Chinese herbal medicine extract of the example 1 are safe and non-irritant, and the composition of the Chinese herbal medicine extract of the example 1 is safe and non-irritant when applied to the cosmetic.
3.4. Efficacy comparison test
3.4.1 Experimental Equipment and personnel
VisioSere 3D digital face (france), skin tester custom dual MPA580;
volunteers, 30, were healthy women of 20-50 years old. Inclusion criteria were: the complexion of the face is dull, the eye corners have obvious fine lines, black eye circles and eye bags, and the skin lacks elasticity; the test can be well matched, and the life rule can be kept during the test; all the contents of the informed consent can be read and understood and signed voluntarily; during the test period, the skin care product is stopped, the skin care product does not participate in clinical tests of any other research centers, and cosmetics, medicines and health care products which may influence the results are not used;
3.4.2 samples to be tested formulation example 1 (eye cream) and comparative formulation example 1 (eye cream).
3.4.3 test methods
The single-eye control test was carried out using the product of formulation example 1 (eye cream) on one side and the product of comparative formulation example 1 (eye cream) on the other side, and other skin care products were used according to usual habits, and replacement or addition of new skin care products was prohibited. The eye contour efficacy test is carried out before, after and after the eye contour efficacy test is continuously used for four weeks, the eye contour efficacy test is carried out respectively before, after and after the eye contour efficacy test is carried out for four weeks, during the test period, the eye contour efficacy test is carried out in a constant temperature and constant humidity environment, hot or caffeine-containing beverage is not allowed to be drunk, melanin is tested through a skin tester cutometer dual MPA580 probe, and wrinkles in unit area are obtained through Visiosere 3D digital face collection processing.
3.4.4 Experimental Effect
a. Brightening skin color
As can be seen from the results of table 3 and fig. 2, the melanin content around the eyes was significantly reduced (0.01 ≦ P < 0.05) after two weeks for formulation example 1 (eye cream) prepared using the composition containing the herbal extracts of example 1 of the present invention; there was a very significant decrease in periocular melanin after four weeks of use (. About.p < 0.01).
The comparative preparation example 1 (eye cream) prepared using the raw materials not containing the herbal extracts of the present invention showed no significant change in melanin around the eyes after two and four weeks.
The measurement was performed at two weeks (W2) and four weeks (W4), respectively. The decrease of melanin in the periphery of the eye using the eye cream containing the herb extracts of example 1 of the present invention was significantly better than that using the eye cream not containing the herb extracts of example 1.
TABLE 3
According to a monocular contrast test, the composition of the Chinese herbal medicine extract can be applied to eyes to achieve the effects of reducing melanin content, whitening, lightening dark eye circles, brightening skin and the like, the effect is more obvious along with the increase of the using time, and similarly, the composition of the Chinese herbal medicine extract can be applied to other cosmetics such as astringent, facial mask, essence, cream and the like. Has the effects of reducing melanin content, whitening skin, brightening skin color, improving glossiness and elasticity, and the like.
b. Wrinkle improvement
After two weeks using the eye cream of formulation example 1 containing the herbal extracts of inventive example 1, wrinkles around the eyes were significantly reduced; after four weeks of use, the reduction in periocular wrinkles continued. The comparative preparation prepared using the raw materials not containing the herbal extracts of the present invention, example 1, the eye cream showed no significant change in periocular wrinkles after two and four weeks.
The eye cream of formulation example 1 prepared using the herbal extracts of the present invention of example 1 exhibited significantly better reduction of periocular wrinkles than the eye cream of comparative formulation example 1 prepared without the extracts of the present invention, measured at time points of two weeks (W2) and four weeks (W4), respectively.
The results are shown in table 4 and fig. 3.
TABLE 4
| Wrinkle per unit area (percentage) | W0 | W2 | W4 |
| Formulation example (eye cream) 1 | 0.089505 | 0.079048 | 0.075577 |
| Comparative formulation example (eye cream) 1 | 0.071798 | 0.070789 | 0.072485 |
According to a monocular contrast test, the Chinese herbal medicine extract is applied to cosmetics by taking eye cream as an example, has the effects of improving wrinkles and particularly reducing fishtail lines, has more obvious effect along with the increase of the using time, and can be applied to other cosmetic preparations such as astringent, mask, essence, cream and the like to have the anti-aging effects of reducing wrinkles, lightening lines, increasing elasticity and the like.
Claims (28)
1. A composition of Chinese herbal medicine extracts for skin cosmetics comprises Chinese herbal medicine extracts of daisy, salix mongolica, angelica, pseudo-ginseng, astragalus membranaceus, glossy privet fruit, liquorice and elderberry, wherein the Chinese herbal medicine extracts comprise the following Chinese herbal medicine raw materials in parts by weight:
12 to 45 portions of daisy, 6 to 25 portions of salix pityridis, 0.5 to 10 portions of angelica, 0.5 to 10 portions of pseudo-ginseng, 0.5 to 7.5 portions of astragalus, 0.5 to 10 portions of glossy privet fruit, 0.5 to 7.5 portions of liquorice and 2.5 to 20 portions of elderberry;
wherein the extract is obtained by extracting with water or 20% -85% ethanol water solution.
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of each Chinese herbal medicine raw material is as follows: 15-40 parts of daisy, 7-20 parts of salix pittany, 1-5 parts of angelica, 1-5 parts of pseudo-ginseng, 0.5-2.5 parts of astragalus, 0.5-2.5 parts of glossy privet fruit, 0.5-2.5 parts of liquorice and 5-10 parts of elderberry.
3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the concentration of the aqueous ethanol solution is 40% to 70%.
4. The composition according to claim 1, which is composed of a preparation 1, a preparation 2 and a preparation 3, wherein the preparation 1 contains an aqueous ethanol extract of daisy and salix integra, the preparation 2 contains an aqueous ethanol extract of angelica sinensis, notoginseng, astragalus membranaceus, fructus ligustri lucidi and liquorice, and the preparation 3 contains an aqueous ethanol extract of elderberry.
5. A composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4 wherein one or more of the herbal materials is/are separately extracted with water and the other one or more of the herbal materials is/are separately extracted with 20% to 85% aqueous ethanol and the extracts are then combined to provide said composition of extracts.
6. A method for preparing a composition of herbal extracts of any one of claims 1-5, said method comprising the steps of:
1) Pulverizing various Chinese herbal medicine raw materials, weighing according to weight ratio, and mixing uniformly; the crushed meshes of the Chinese herbal medicine raw materials are 10-200 meshes;
2) Extracting the crushed Chinese herbal medicine raw materials by adopting water or 20 to 85 percent ethanol water solution to obtain extracting solution; volatilizing the solvent to obtain a concentrated solution;
adjusting the marked concentration of the concentrated solution to 100% by using water, namely: adjusting the weight of the concentrated solution to be equal to the weight of the Chinese herbal medicine raw materials adopted at first;
* The marked concentration of the concentrated solution is equal to 100 percent of the weight of the Chinese herbal medicine raw materials/the weight of the final concentrated solution
3) Polyol/water treatment: mixing the concentrated solution with polyalcohol and water, cooling to below 30 deg.C, vacuum filtering or filtering with filter membrane, and collecting filtrate to obtain mixture of Chinese herbal medicine extract; wherein the polyol is selected from the group consisting of butylene glycol and propylene glycol; the mass ratio of the concentrated solution to the mixture of the polyhydric alcohol and the water is 1 (0.5-3): (0.5-3);
4) Ultrafiltering with 0.1-10 μm microporous membrane, purifying, and recovering solvent to obtain filtrate.
7. The method of claim 6, further comprising the steps of:
5) Sterilizing at high temperature, and cooling to below 30 deg.C to obtain the composition of the Chinese medicinal extract; sterilizing at 80-100 deg.C for 20-60min.
8. The method according to claim 6, wherein in step 1), the pulverized Chinese herbal medicine materials have a mesh size of 10-80 mesh.
9. The method according to claim 8, wherein in step 1), the crushed Chinese herbal medicine materials have a mesh size of 10-50 meshes.
10. The method according to claim 6, wherein in the step 3), the mass ratio of the concentrated solution to the mixture of the polyhydric alcohol and the water is 1 (0.5-1): (0.5-1).
11. The method according to claim 6, wherein in step 3), the mass ratio of the concentrated solution to the mixture of the polyhydric alcohol and the water is 1:0.5:0.5.
12. the process according to claim 6, wherein in step 4) the purification is carried out by ultrafiltration with a 0.22-1 μm microfiltration membrane.
13. The method according to claim 7, wherein in step 5), the sterilization temperature is 80-90 ℃.
14. The method according to claim 7, wherein in step 5), the sterilization time is 30-45min.
15. The method according to claim 6, wherein one or more pulverized Chinese herbal materials are extracted with water, respectively, and the other one or more pulverized Chinese herbal materials are extracted with 20% -85% ethanol aqueous solution, respectively, and then the extracts are mixed.
16. The method according to any one of claims 6 to 15,
wherein the water extraction method comprises: crushing Chinese herbal medicine raw materials to be extracted by water, weighing and mixing the raw materials according to the weight ratio of 1-1; concentrating to volatilize water to obtain concentrated solution;
wherein the alcohol aqueous solution extraction method comprises: crushing Chinese herbal medicine raw materials to be extracted by the alcohol-water solution, weighing according to the weight ratio, mixing, carrying out reflux extraction with the alcohol-water solution, cooling to below 30 ℃, and carrying out vacuum filtration; wherein the mass volume ratio of the raw material to the alcohol-water solution is 1; the alcohol water solution is 20-85% of ethanol water solution; and evaporating the solvent from the solution mixture obtained after suction filtration to obtain a concentrated solution.
17. The method of claim 16, wherein the water extraction process comprises: pulverizing Chinese herbal medicine raw materials to be extracted by water, weighing according to a weight ratio, mixing with water according to a mass ratio of 1-1; concentrating, and volatilizing water to obtain concentrated solution.
18. The method according to claim 16, wherein in the water extraction method, after filtering to remove the residue to obtain a filtrate, the filtrate is concentrated at a temperature of 40-60 ℃ under reduced pressure to volatilize water to obtain a concentrated solution.
19. The method according to claim 16, wherein in the alcohol aqueous solution extraction method, the evaporation is rotary evaporation, the temperature of the rotary evaporation is 40-80 ℃, and the evaporation time is 1-5h.
20. The process according to claim 19, wherein the temperature of the rotary evaporation is 50-70 ℃.
21. The method according to claim 19, wherein the evaporation time is 1-3h.
22. The method according to claim 16, wherein the aqueous alcohol extraction process comprises: crushing Chinese herbal medicine raw materials to be extracted by the alcohol-water solution, weighing according to the weight ratio, mixing, carrying out reflux extraction with the alcohol-water solution, cooling to below 30 ℃, and carrying out vacuum filtration; wherein the mass volume ratio of the raw material to the alcohol-water solution is 1; the alcohol water solution is 40-70% of alcohol water solution; and evaporating the solvent of the solution mixture obtained after suction filtration to obtain a concentrated solution.
23. A herbal extract composition prepared according to the method of any one of claims 6-22.
24. Use of a composition of herbal extracts according to any one of claims 1 to 5 or 23 for the preparation of a cosmetic for the skin having anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle, anti-oxidant, anti-free radical, skin elasticity increasing, melanin content decreasing, whitening, skin gloss enhancing effects.
25. A cosmetic comprising the composition of the herbal extract according to any one of claims 1 to 5 or 23, wherein the cosmetic is a cream, lotion, paste, ointment, pack, gel or lotion; the content of the Chinese herbal medicine extract composition in the cosmetics is 0.1-20% by weight.
26. The cosmetic according to claim 25, wherein the cosmetic is a face cream or an eye cream.
27. The cosmetic as claimed in claim 25, wherein the content of the herbal extract composition in the cosmetic is 1-15% by weight.
28. The cosmetic as claimed in claim 25, wherein the content of the composition of herbal extracts in the cosmetic is 2 to 8% by weight.
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