CN110604346B - Method for cutting collar of men's shirt - Google Patents
Method for cutting collar of men's shirt Download PDFInfo
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- CN110604346B CN110604346B CN201910940762.2A CN201910940762A CN110604346B CN 110604346 B CN110604346 B CN 110604346B CN 201910940762 A CN201910940762 A CN 201910940762A CN 110604346 B CN110604346 B CN 110604346B
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- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 34
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 41
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 29
- 238000004364 calculation method Methods 0.000 claims description 23
- 239000004698 Polyethylene Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 229920000573 polyethylene Polymers 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000000853 adhesive Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000001070 adhesive effect Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000002093 peripheral effect Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- -1 polyethylene Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000011230 binding agent Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 238000010409 ironing Methods 0.000 abstract description 9
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 abstract description 8
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 abstract description 5
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 abstract description 4
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 6
- 230000007306 turnover Effects 0.000 description 5
- 229920003023 plastic Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 239000004033 plastic Substances 0.000 description 4
- 241000251468 Actinopterygii Species 0.000 description 2
- 230000004075 alteration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000007547 defect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000006467 substitution reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000008093 supporting effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 1
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
- A41B1/00—Shirts
- A41B1/08—Details
- A41B1/12—Neckbands
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
- A41B3/00—Collars
- A41B3/005—Methods or devices for their manufacture
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
- Details Of Garments (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a method for cutting a collar of a men shirt, which comprises collar template A cutting, cloth cutting, lining cloth bonding and collar combination sewing technology. The collar sample plate A is cut by adopting a high-temperature resistant material, and a collar surface B, a collar lining C, a collar lining D, an upper collar lining E and a lower collar lining F are sequentially cut by utilizing the collar sample plate A. And the collar sewing is to sew the adhered collar surface B and the collar lining C into an integral collar and assemble the integral collar with the garment piece. The invention has the advantages that the collar template is tailored by adopting an intensive method. And secondly, adopting a collar sample plate to sequentially cut a collar surface B, a collar lining C, a collar lining D, an upper collar lining E and a lower collar lining F of the collar. Thirdly, designing a provincial road on the upper collar lining E to shape the appearance of the collar. Fourthly, the collar curvature is shaped by the curved surface collar ironing machine to improve the shaping quality. Fifthly, the collar sewing process is shortened by adopting the stitching process to stitch the collar once and stitching the open line of the collar.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of tailoring of clothing collars, and particularly relates to a method for tailoring a men's shirt collar.
Background
For a long time, men's shirts are one of the main clothes types worn by men, and the number of production enterprises is very large. From the prior art, most shirt enterprises mainly stay in the traditional production mode. In particular, the collar of a men's shirt is still cut by separating a lapel from a base collar, and the collar process is complicated. In the collar process, a plastic turnover strip is added in the collar, so that the phenomenon that the plastic turnover strip falls off after washing is often caused, and the turnover and supporting effects on the collar are lost. The traditional collar has more parts in the aspect of cutting, long sewing route, disordered number matching easily caused, complex operation and low yield. The invention adopts the method of integrally cutting the lapel and the bottom collar to improve the production efficiency, and the method for cutting the collar of the men shirt can effectively solve the problems.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a method for cutting a collar of a men shirt, which comprises the steps of cutting a sample plate A of the collar, cutting cloth (comprising a collar surface B, a collar lining C, a collar lining D, an upper collar lining E and a lower collar lining F), bonding lining cloth and sewing collar combination. The sample plate of the collar is cut by adopting a high-temperature resistant material, and a collar surface B, a collar lining C, a collar lining D, an upper collar lining E and a lower collar lining F are sequentially cut by utilizing the collar sample plate A. The lining cloth is adhered by adhering the collar surface B, the upper collar lining E and the lower collar lining F on the rough surface (reverse surface) of the collar surface B and adhering the collar lining D on the rough surface (reverse surface) of the collar lining C. And the collar sewing is to sew the adhered collar surface B and the collar lining C into an integral collar and assemble the integral collar with the garment piece. The collar stitching technology adopts a seam riding process.
The invention is realized by the following technical scheme:
a method for tailoring the collar of a shirt for a man comprises the following steps:
1) collar template cutting system
Folding the sample plate in half, setting an upper collar center point a, a lower collar center point d, an upper collar point b and a lower collar point c, wherein the contour points abcd form a rectangle, and the upper collar center point a and the lower collar center point d are positioned on a folding line;
a bottom collar middle and rear point d2 and a collar bottom warping point c1 are respectively arranged on ad and bc, a d2c1 line segment is parallel to a cd line segment, a collar long point b1 is arranged on ab, the length of bb1 is the same as that of cc1, a collar bottom convex upper point d3 and a collar bottom convex lower point d1 are respectively arranged on d2c1 and cd, d3d1 is parallel to bc, a collar bottom head high point c2 is arranged, a d2c1c2 is a human shoulder inclination degree multiplied by 2+10, a collar bottom middle point 3 is arranged at the middle point of c1c2, a collar bottom head convex point c4 is arranged, and c3c4 is vertical to c1c 2;
cutting according to the contour formed by the points ad2d1c1c4c2b1, opening the sample plate to obtain a collar sample plate A, wherein the collar sample plate A consists of a collar outer opening line q, a lapel head line p, a bottom collar head line s and a collar inner opening line o;
2) cutting collar fabric
The collar fabric comprises a collar surface B, a collar lining C, a collar lining D, an upper collar lining E and a lower collar lining F;
respectively taking a collar surface B, a collar lining C and a collar lining D, overlapping three layers of cloth, covering the collar sample plate A, and placing 1.0 cm of sewing heads on the periphery to be aligned and cut;
covering the collar sample plate A on cloth of an upper collar lining E, setting a left E point and a right E3 point of thick lining cloth, setting the distances between the left E point and the right E3 point of the thick lining cloth and a collar bottom high point c2 to be the same, setting a middle point E1 of the thick lining cloth at the middle point of an ee3 line segment, setting a middle concave point E2 of the thick lining cloth perpendicular to an E1 point, and cutting according to a curve formed by a collar outer opening line q, a lapel line p and an ee2E3 to obtain the upper collar lining E; setting a provincial distance point k, a provincial opening large point k1 and a provincial cusp k2 on the upper collar lining E to form a provincial road, and cutting the provincial road;
the lower collar lining F is only cut by the lower part of the collar sample plate A in an aligned mode and is cut around the outline of a collar bottom collar head line s and a collar inner opening line o, and the lower collar lining F is cut by a non-woven adhesive lining;
3) collar lining cloth sewing
Sewing a provincial way on the upper collar lining E, respectively sewing the upper collar lining E and the lower collar lining F on the rough surface of the collar surface B in a matching manner, and sewing the collar lining D on the rough surface of the collar lining C;
4) combined sewing collar
The smooth surfaces of the collar surface B and the collar lining C are opposite, three edges except the bottom edge are sewn along the edges, the peripheral sewing head of the collar is ironed and poured on the collar lining cloth, and the collar is turned over from the unsewn bottom edge so that the rough surface is arranged in the collar lining cloth.
Further, in the step (1), ab is dc, ad is bc, ab is calculated as "human neck base circumference size/2 +1.0 cm", ad is calculated as "ab/3", d2d is calculated as "ad/7", c1c2 is calculated as "ad/2.6", c3c4 is calculated as "ad/13", and c1d3 is calculated as "c 1d 2/3".
Further, the collar outer opening line q and the lapel head line p in the step (1) are of a straight line structure, the collar bottom collar head line s is of an arc structure, and the collar inner opening line o is of a symmetrical fish maw arc structure.
Further, the upper collar interlining E in the step (2) is cut by thick Polyethylene (PE) bonding weft interlining yarns.
Further, in step (2), the calculation method of kk1 ═ ec2 is "ad/22", the calculation method of kk2 is "ad/3.4", the calculation method of ek is "ad/1.8", and the calculation method of e1e2 is "ad/7".
Furthermore, in the step (3), six notches are respectively punched on the bottom edges of the collar surface B and the collar surface C, the calculation method of the edge distance of the notches is set to be ad/1.3, and the calculation method of the notch distance is set to be ad/3.4.
The invention has the beneficial effects that:
the invention relates to a method for cutting a collar of a men shirt, which comprises the steps of cutting a sample plate A of the collar, cutting cloth, bonding lining cloth and sewing collar combination. The collar drawing and cutting are performed in a mode of lapel and bottom collar intensive drawing, and drawing and cutting are completed by adopting high-temperature-resistant materials. The high-temperature resistant material is adopted for the application when various lining cloth, collar surfaces, collar linings and buttons are sewn in the collar in the next procedure. In addition, a dart is arranged at the collar of the upper collar lining E, and the dart is sewn to turn over the collar, so that the defect that a traditional turnover plastic strip is easy to fall off is avoided. After the collar is sewn, a curved surface ironing machine (collar ironing machine) is adopted for one-time shaping and ironing, so that the manufacturing efficiency of the collar is improved, and the cost for purchasing a large collar ironing machine for enterprises is reduced. The collar stitching technology is manufactured by adopting a stitching process, and the collar is stitched on the collar nest of the clothes body by the method at one time, so that the operation is simple and convenient. The invention changes the traditional men's shirt collar technology, changes the original cutting method of separating the lapel and the bottom collar into an intensive cutting method. The original mode that the collar nest is shaped by turning over the plastic strips is changed into the mode that a province road is arranged at the position E of an upper collar lining to realize the shape of the collar, and meanwhile, a micro collar ironing machine is adopted to finish shaping. The invention has simple manufacture, short process route, easy production and worth popularization.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a flow chart of the collar tailoring of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a schematic design diagram of a collar template A according to the present invention;
FIG. 3 is a schematic view of a collar template A according to the present invention;
FIG. 4 is a schematic view of the upper collar lining E of the present invention being cut;
FIG. 5 is a schematic view of the structure of the collar lining E of the present invention;
FIG. 6 is a schematic view of the lower collar lining F of the present invention being cut;
FIG. 7 is a schematic view of the collar stitching process of the present invention;
FIG. 8 is a schematic view of the molded appearance of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions of the present invention will be described clearly and completely with reference to specific embodiments of the present invention, and it should be understood that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all of the embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
As shown in FIGS. 1 to 6, a method for cutting the collar of a men's shirt, a collar template A is cut and drawn in a folding way, which comprises the following steps; the collar middle upper point a, the collar middle lower point d, the collar upper point b, the collar lower point c, the collar long point b1, the collar bottom warped point c1, the collar bottom high point c2, the collar bottom middle point c3, the collar bottom convex point c4, the collar bottom convex lower point d1, the collar bottom convex upper point d3 and the collar middle rear point d2 form a collar sample plate for collar sample plate cutting.
The ab on the collar template a is dc, ad is bc, and forms a rectangle, the ab is calculated as "human neck base circumference size/2 +1.0 cm", the ad is calculated as "ab/3", d2d is c1c is b1b is d3d1, the d2d is calculated as "ad/7", the d2c1c2 is "human shoulder inclination x 2+ 10", the c1c2 is calculated as "ad/2.6", and the c3c4 is "ad/13", and is used for collar template cutting.
For example, the girth of the human neck root of men's middle size 170/88A is set to "38" cm, ab is calculated as "38/2 + 1.0" 20 cm ", ad is calculated as" 20/3 "6.6 cm", and d2d is calculated as "6.6/7" 0.95 cm ".
The human body shoulder inclination of man's middle size 170/88A is set to "20 degrees", the method of calculating angle d2c1c2 is "20 × 2+10 ═ 50 degrees", the method of calculating c1c2 is "6.6/2.6 ═ 2.5 cm", and the method of calculating c3c4 is "6.6/13 ═ 0.5 cm".
And opening the cut sample plate, wherein the collar sample plate A comprises a collar outer opening line q, a lapel head line p, a bottom collar head line s and a collar inner opening line o. The collar outer opening line q and the lapel head line p are of linear structures, the collar bottom collar head line s is of an arc structure, and the collar inner opening line o is of a symmetrical fish maw arc structure and is used for making a collar sample plate.
And (4) cutting the collar fabric (comprising a collar surface B, a collar lining C, a collar lining D, an upper collar lining E and a lower collar lining F). The collar surface B, the collar lining C and the collar lining D are cut into three layers with the same size, the collar sample plate A is used for covering, and 1.0 cm of sewing head is placed on the periphery of the collar sample plate A to be aligned with the collar sample plate A for cutting.
And (4) cutting the collar fabric (comprising a collar surface B, a collar lining C, a collar lining D, an upper collar lining E and a lower collar lining F). The upper collar lining E is only cut by the upper part of the collar sample plate A in an aligning way (the upper collar lining E is cut by a contour formed by surrounding a collar outer opening line q and a lapel head line p, namely a lapel part), and the upper collar lining E is cut in the weft yarn bonding direction by thick Polyethylene (PE). The upper collar lining E comprises a thick lining cloth left E point, a thick lining cloth right E3 point, a distance saving point k, a mouth saving large point k1, a sharp point k2, a thick lining cloth middle point E1 and a thick lining cloth middle concave point E2. The two ends of the upper collar lining E are provided with dart roads, the calculation method of the dart road kk1 is equal to ec2 is "ad/22 is equal to 0.3 cm", the calculation method of the kk2 is equal to "ad/3.4 is equal to 1.9 cm", the calculation method of the ek is equal to "ad/1.8 is equal to 3.6 cm", the calculation method of the E1E2 is equal to "ad/7 is equal to 0.9 cm", and triangles and dart roads are cut at the two ends of the basic lining cloth of the upper collar lining E.
And (4) cutting the collar fabric (comprising a collar surface B, a collar lining C, a collar lining D, an upper collar lining E and a lower collar lining F). The lower collar lining F is cut only by the lower part of the collar template a in alignment (cut by the contour around the collar base collar line s and the collar inner opening line o, i.e., the base collar part), and the lower collar lining F is cut by the nonwoven adhesive lining.
As shown in figures 7-8, a method for cutting the collar of a men's shirt, the dart on the upper collar lining E is sewn manually, the technical method is reverse stitch, and the parameter is 8 stitches/2.5 cm. The collar interlining adhesion comprises two parts of a collar surface B and a collar lining C, the collar surface B is set to be adhered to an upper collar lining E and a lower collar lining F, the collar lining C is set to be adhered to a collar lining D, and the respective interlinings are adhered to rough surfaces (namely the reverse surfaces of the cloth) of the collar surface B and the collar lining C. Setting the bonding parameters; temperature 150 deg.C, pressure 196-294 kpa (2 kgf/cm)2～3kgf/cm2) And the time is 10 s.
Six cuts are respectively formed on the bottom edges of the collar surface B and the collar C (three are respectively distributed at two ends of the collar head), the calculation method of the cut edge distance is set to be ad/1.3, the calculation method of the cut distance is set to be ad/3.4, the bottom edges of the collar surface B and the collar C are buckled to the sewing head for 1.0 cm, ironing and shaping are carried out to form a smooth edge, and the buckling to the sewing head is carried out by adopting a collar sample plate.
The collar combination technology is characterized in that a collar surface B is opposite to a collar lining C smooth surface (the front surface of cloth), and two ends of the collar are aligned to each other and sewn with three edges except the bottom edge along the edges. A sewing method; adopting a lock stitch and a flat sewing mode with the parameters as follows; the needle code density is 12 needles/2.5 cm, and the seam type is 1.01.01/(301).
The collar combination sewing technology is characterized in that a triangle and a cut are cut off at the collar head for turning over the collar. And the collar is turned over, the peripheral seam of the collar is ironed and poured on the collar lining cloth along a collar sample plate A (high-temperature resistant material), and a collar tip is pried by turning over an awl.
The collar combination sewing technology is characterized in that the sewn collar is placed at the inner opening of a collar ironing machine, the collar surface is upward, and the collar lining is downward pressed and shaped. The ironing parameters are as follows; temperature of 160 deg.C and pressure of 206-294 kpa (2.1 kgf/cm)2～3kgf/cm2) And the time is 13 s.
The collar combination sewing technology is characterized in that a collar lower opening is arranged to ride on a collar nest of a garment piece to be sewn through a stitching process, the width of a lapel stitching open thread is 0.4 cm, and the width of a bottom stitching open thread is 0.1 cm. The parameters are that the stitch density is 12 stitches/2.5 cm, and the stitch type is 2.42.01/(301).
Although embodiments of the present invention have been shown and described, it will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that changes, modifications, substitutions and alterations can be made in these embodiments without departing from the principles and spirit of the invention, the scope of which is defined in the appended claims and their equivalents.
Claims (4)
1. A method for cutting the collar of a men shirt is characterized by comprising the following steps:
1) collar template cutting system
Folding the sample plate in half, setting an upper collar center point a, a lower collar center point d, an upper collar point b and a lower collar point c, wherein the contour points abcd form a rectangle, and the upper collar center point a and the lower collar center point d are positioned on a folding line;
respectively arranging a bottom collar middle and rear point d2 and a collar bottom warping point c1 on ad and bc, arranging a d2c1 line segment to be parallel to a cd line segment, arranging a collar long point b1 on ab, setting the length of bb1 to be the same as that of cc1, respectively arranging a collar bottom convex upper point d3 and a collar bottom convex lower point d1 on d2c1 and cd, arranging d3d1 to be parallel to bc, arranging a collar bottom head high point c2, setting a wing bottom d2c1c2 to be human shoulder inclination multiplied by 2+10, arranging a collar bottom head middle point 3 at the middle point of c1c2, arranging a collar bottom head convex point c4, and setting a c3c4 to be vertical to c1c 2; cutting according to the contour formed by the points ad2d1c1c4c2b1, opening the sample plate to obtain a collar sample plate A, wherein the collar sample plate A consists of a collar outer opening line q, a lapel head line p, a bottom collar head line s and a collar inner opening line o;
the calculation method of ab is dc, ad is bc, the calculation method of ab is human neck root circumference size/2 +1.0, the calculation method of ad is ab/3, the calculation method of d2d is ad/7, the calculation method of c1c2 is ad/2.6, the calculation method of c3c4 is ad/13, and the calculation method of c1d3 is c1d 2/3;
2) cutting collar fabric
The collar fabric comprises a collar surface B, a collar lining C, a collar lining D, an upper collar lining E and a lower collar lining F;
respectively taking a collar surface B, a collar lining C and a collar lining D, overlapping three layers of cloth, covering the collar sample plate A, and placing 1.0 cm of sewing heads on the periphery to be aligned and cut;
covering the collar sample plate A on cloth of an upper collar lining E, setting a left E point and a right E3 point of thick lining cloth, overlapping a left E point and a right E3 point of the thick lining cloth with a collar bottom high point c2, setting a middle point E1 of the thick lining cloth at the middle point of an ee3 line segment, setting a middle concave point E2 of the thick lining cloth perpendicular to an E1 point, and cutting according to a curve formed by a collar outer opening line q, a lapel line p and an ee2E3 to obtain the upper collar lining E; setting a provincial distance point k, a provincial opening large point k1 and a provincial cusp k2 on the upper collar lining E to form a provincial road, and cutting the provincial road;
the lower collar lining F is only cut by the lower part of the sample plate A in an aligned mode and is cut around the outline of the collar bottom collar line s and the collar inner opening line o, and the lower collar lining F is cut by a non-woven adhesive lining;
wherein the calculation method of kk1 ═ ec2 is ad/22, the calculation method of kk2 is ad/3.4, the calculation method of ek is ad/1.8, and the calculation method of e1e2 is ad/7;
3) collar lining cloth sewing
Sewing a provincial way on the upper collar lining E, respectively sewing the upper collar lining E and the lower collar lining F on the rough surface of the collar surface B in a matching manner, and sewing the collar lining D on the rough surface of the collar lining C;
4) combined sewing collar
The smooth surfaces of the collar surface B and the collar lining C are opposite, three edges except the bottom edge are sewn along the edges, the peripheral sewing head of the collar is ironed and poured on the collar lining cloth, and the collar is turned over from the unsewn bottom edge so that the rough surface is arranged in the collar lining cloth.
2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the collar outer line q and the lapel head line p in step (1) are straight lines, the collar base head line s is a circular arc, and the collar inner line o is a symmetrical fish-belly arc.
3. The method according to claim 1, wherein the top collar lining E in the step (2) is cut using a thick type polyethylene binder weft inserted yarn.
4. The method according to claim 1, wherein six cuts are made at the bottom edges of the front surface B and the back surface C in the step (3), the edge distance of the cuts is calculated as ad/1.3, and the distance of the cuts is calculated as ad/3.4.
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| CN201910940762.2A CN110604346B (en) | 2019-09-30 | 2019-09-30 | Method for cutting collar of men's shirt |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| CN201910940762.2A CN110604346B (en) | 2019-09-30 | 2019-09-30 | Method for cutting collar of men's shirt |
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| CN110604346A CN110604346A (en) | 2019-12-24 |
| CN110604346B true CN110604346B (en) | 2021-04-09 |
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| CN112773031B (en) * | 2021-01-20 | 2023-02-03 | 鲁泰纺织股份有限公司 | Production process for solving curling problem of knitted shirt |
Citations (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN103445357A (en) * | 2013-09-13 | 2013-12-18 | 山东仙霞服装有限公司 | Manufacturing process of business suit collar |
| CN107006898A (en) * | 2017-03-31 | 2017-08-04 | 西京学院 | A kind of cutting of western-style clothes collar and sewing tech method |
| CN107788598A (en) * | 2017-09-28 | 2018-03-13 | 山西兵娟制衣有限公司 | A kind of sewing tech method of shirt collar |
| CN108244730A (en) * | 2017-12-30 | 2018-07-06 | 北京亿都川服装集团有限公司 | A kind of western-style clothes collar production method |
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Patent Citations (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN103445357A (en) * | 2013-09-13 | 2013-12-18 | 山东仙霞服装有限公司 | Manufacturing process of business suit collar |
| CN107006898A (en) * | 2017-03-31 | 2017-08-04 | 西京学院 | A kind of cutting of western-style clothes collar and sewing tech method |
| CN107788598A (en) * | 2017-09-28 | 2018-03-13 | 山西兵娟制衣有限公司 | A kind of sewing tech method of shirt collar |
| CN108244730A (en) * | 2017-12-30 | 2018-07-06 | 北京亿都川服装集团有限公司 | A kind of western-style clothes collar production method |
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Effective date of registration: 20221010 Address after: No. 29, Huohuo Road, Huangshigang District, Huangshi City, Hubei Province, 435000 Patentee after: HUBEI MAILYARD Co.,Ltd. Address before: No.1 Xijing Road, Chang'an District, Xi'an City, Shaanxi Province 710100 Patentee before: XIJING University |
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| CF01 | Termination of patent right due to non-payment of annual fee |
Granted publication date: 20210409 |