CN111802714A

CN111802714A - Method for cutting men's suit universal exhibition lining

Info

Publication number: CN111802714A
Application number: CN202010699225.6A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 陈文强
Original assignee: Xijing University
Current assignee: Xijing University
Priority date: 2020-07-20
Filing date: 2020-07-20
Publication date: 2020-10-23

Abstract

The invention discloses a method for cutting a men's suit open exhibition lining, which comprises the following steps: the drawing method of the lining cloth, the lapel lining and the shoulder pad of the suit comprises the steps of drawing the sizes of all parts of the lining cloth, the lapel lining and the shoulder pad according to the sizes, sewing the lapel lining at the neckline part of the lining cloth, sewing the shoulder pad at the shoulder part of the lining cloth, sewing the lapel lining and the shoulder pad with the lining cloth, then combining the lapel lining and the shoulder pad with the lining cloth, and placing the clothing piece, the lapel lining and the shoulder pad into an oral cavity for shaping by adopting a three-dimensional shaping machine, so that the fit degree of the lining cloth of the suit and the clothing piece is improved, and the manufacturing efficiency of the lining cloth is improved.

Description

Method for cutting men's suit universal exhibition lining

Technical Field

The invention relates to a method for cutting a universal exhibition lining, in particular to a method for cutting a universal exhibition lining of men's business suit.

Background

The making method of men's western-style clothes is continuously innovated in recent years, and the lining cloth comprises the tailoring of the traditional lining cloth and the tailoring of the modern lining cloth.

The traditional lining cloth is mostly made of a thickened type, such as: the use of a large amount of wool linings and the combined use of white cloth linings and black carbon linings often cause the phenomena of thick and heavy western-style clothes, low matching degree between the cut pieces and the lining cloth, influence on wrinkling and uneven clothes on the surface of the western-style clothes and the like, and have the disadvantages of complex manufacturing process, various working procedures, high cost and difficulty in mastering.

For the production process of the modern suit interlining, adhesive interlining is adopted mostly, the adhesive interlining is soft, the surface of the suit cannot be made to be stiff by one layer, so that the phenomenon of multi-layer adhesion occurs, the phenomenon of poor glue permeation occurs during multi-layer adhesion, the surface of the suit is leaked, and the appearance of the suit loses aesthetic feeling.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a method for cutting a universal exhibition lining of a suit for men, which solves the problem that the matching degree of lining cloth of the existing suit and a garment piece is not high, can be well matched with the garment piece and improves the manufacturing efficiency.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides a method for tailoring a men's business suit lining, comprising: drawing method of the stretcher lining, the lapel lining and the shoulder pad.

The method for drawing the substrate comprises the following steps: drawing a line segment ab, wherein the length of the line segment ab is-100 +4.0, and the line segment ab is used for drawing the length of the universal lining; drawing a segment from a point a to a point d, wherein the segment ad has a length of 0.30 and is used for drawing the width of the extending lining; drawing a point e on a line df from a point d, wherein the length of the line de is 0.051 and is used for drawing shoulder slope of the extending lining, and the length of the line ef is 0.217 and is used for drawing armhole depth of the extending lining; drawing a vertical line segment of the line segment df from the point f to a point g, wherein the length of the line segment fg is 0.023 to be used for drawing the bottom end of the armhole of the extending lining; the g point and the b point are taken as vertical lines of a segment fg and a segment ab respectively and intersect at a vertical point f1, and the segments ad, df, fg, gf1, f1b and ba form the basic outline of the open-ended lining; drawing a point a1 on a line ab, wherein the length of the line aa1 is 0.128-point type and is used for drawing a collar of the extending lining; drawing a point c on a line segment ab, wherein the length of the line segment ac is 0.5 x type and is used for drawing the lapel length; drawing a point a2 on the line segment ac, the length of the line segment a1a2 being 0.054 x type for the lapel blending position point; straight line connecting points a1 and e, wherein a midpoint d3 is drawn on a line segment a1e, a segment perpendicular to the line segment a1e is drawn from the point d3 to a point d1, the length of the line segment d1d3 is 0.005, and arc line connecting points a1, d1 and e form a shoulder arc line; extending a line segment d1d3 from a point d3 to a point d2, wherein the length of the line segment d3d2 is 0.1-88, and the line segment is used for drawing a shoulder wedge opening line through the spreading pad; drawing a quarter point e1 close to the point f on the line df, drawing a point e2 in the basic outline, wherein the line e1e2 is perpendicular to the line ef, the length of the line e1e2 is 0.058, and arc connecting points g, e2 and e form an armhole arc; drawing a segment g1g2 perpendicular to a line segment gf1 from a point g1, wherein a point g1 is drawn on the line segment gf1, and the length of the line segment g1g2 is 0.04 ×; drawing a point f2 on a line segment f1b, wherein the length of the line segment f1f2 is 0.055, and connecting points g, g2 and f2 by arcs respectively form a side seam arc; drawing a point r2 on the segment cb, wherein the length of the segment cr2 is 0.11 ×; drawing a segment h2r2 perpendicular to line cb, point h2 lying within the general outline of the open liner, segment h2r2 being 0.16 x in length; perpendicular segments h2f3 and h2h are drawn from a point h2 to two sides of a line segment h2r2, the perpendicular segment h2f3 and the line segment f1b are intersected at a point f3, and the length of the line segment h2h is 0.24 ═ type; drawing a point h1 on a segment h2r2, wherein the segment h2h1 is 0.011; the straight line connecting points h and h1 and the line segments h2h, hh1 and h1h2 form a waist province; drawing a perpendicular segment r1r2 of the line cb, the point r1 being outside the basic outline of the open liner, the line r1r2 being 0.011 type; drawing a point k on a line segment r2b from a point r1 to a point r which is parallel to a line segment r2a, wherein the length of the line segment r1r is equal to the length of the line segment r2k is equal to 0.006 type; drawing a point k1 within the basic outline of the open liner, with segment k1k perpendicular to segment r2b, segment k1k being 0.002 type; the line segments rh1, h1k1, k1k, kr2 and r2r1 form a bellowed part; a segment r2b is extended from a point b to a point b1, a segment b1b2 perpendicular to a segment bb1 is drawn from the point b1 to a point f1, and the length of the segment bb1 is equal to the length of the segment b1b2, which is 0.022 type; straight line connecting points b2 and f3, k1 and b2, a bisector b2b3 of < k1b2f3, and a segment b2b3 is 0.028 x in length; a point k2 which is one third close to the point b2 is drawn on the line segment k1b2, a point k3 which is one third close to the point f3 is drawn on the line segment f3b2, and the points k2, b3 and k3 are respectively connected by adopting an arc line to form a circular pendulum.

The drawing method of the lapel lining comprises the following steps: drawing a line segment jm and vertical line segments jo and mp thereof, wherein the vertical line segments jo and mp are positioned on the same side of the line segment jm, the length of the line segment jm is 0.13-type and used for drawing the width of the lapel, the length of the line segment jo is 0.5-type and used for drawing the length of the lapel, and the line segment mp is 0.092-type and used for drawing the inclination of the lapel; from a point o to a point n, a vertical line segment of the line segment jo is drawn, the line segment on and the line segment jm are positioned on the same side of the line segment jo, and the line segment on is 0.012-type and is used for drawing the width of the lapel base; the straight lines are connected with the points p and n, a center point p2 is drawn on the line segment pn, a perpendicular line segment p2p1 of the line segment pn is drawn towards the outside, the length of the line segment p2p1 is 0.006, and the arc lines are used for connecting the points p, p1 and n and drawing the radian of the external opening of the lapel; line jp, arc pp1n, line no and oj form a lapel.

The method for drawing the shoulder pad comprises the following steps: drawing an isosceles triangle tqs, wherein the length of the line segment qs is 0.25, and the length of the line segment qt is 0.19; drawing the middle points w and x of the line segments qt and ts respectively, and drawing perpendicular line segments wu and xy of the line segments qt and ts respectively outside the isosceles triangle tqs, wherein the length of the line segment wu is equal to the length of the line segment xy which is equal to 0.035 type; connecting points q, u, t, y and s by using arcs to form an outer radian of the shoulder pad; a midpoint z is drawn on a line qs, a straight line is used for connecting the points z and t, a point v is drawn on a line zt, the line zv is 0.011 type, and an arc line is used for connecting the points q, v and s to form the inner radian of the shoulder pad.

Preferably, the method further comprises: drawing and sewing a first filler strip and a second filler strip; the drawing and sewing method of the first filler strip and the second filler strip comprises the following steps: the first filler strip is in a wedge shape, and the length of the first filler strip is greater than that of the line segment d1d 2; the second filler strip is L-shaped, and the length of two vertical sides of the L-shaped is longer than that of the waist and belly provinces; cutting according to the waist and belly dart structure, sewing the waist and belly dart, and sewing the second pad strip at the waist and belly dart position on the reverse side of the open and spread lining; the shoulder opening wedge line d1d2 is cut at the shoulder of the open lining, and is broken and sewed with the pad strip.

Preferably, the first filler strip and the second filler strip are both cut by adopting cross-plied cotton cloth; the first padding strip is sewn in a lock stitch flat sewing mode; and the second pad strip is sewn by 304 zigzag lock stitch.

Preferably, the method further comprises: cutting and sewing method of lapel; the cutting and sewing method of the lapel comprises the following steps: and cutting according to the structure of the lapel to obtain a lapel lining, and blending and sewing the lapel lining and the neckline of the lapel lining at the point a2 of the lapel lining.

Preferably, the method further comprises: a method for stretching, ironing and pressing a liner; the method for ironing the unfolding lining comprises the following steps: refute first lining and lead to the exhibition lining and sew up the back, utilize the flatiron to return and pull out, pull out at the waist and handle, return into at armpit, shoulder, round pendulum and advance the processing, return to pull out to iron and take the floorcloth mode to iron the design, the parameter of ironing is: the temperature is 150 ℃, the pressure is 206-294 kpa, and the time is 6s, and the intermittent ironing technology is adopted.

Preferably, the method further comprises: cutting and sewing method of the traction belt; the cutting and sewing method of the traction belt comprises the following steps: and cutting the traction belt according to the shape of the open lining side stitch and the circular pendulum line, and superposing one half of the cut traction belt on the side seam and the circular pendulum part.

Preferably, the method further comprises: cutting and sewing method of shoulder pad; the cutting and sewing method of the shoulder pad comprises the following steps: cutting the soft cotton lining according to the drawn shoulder pad shape, wherein the shapes of the sponge lining and the black carbon lining are consistent with the shape of the soft cotton lining, the soft cotton lining is wider than the periphery of the sponge lining by a distance, the sponge lining is wider than the periphery of the black carbon lining by a distance, and the sponge lining and the black carbon lining are wrapped between the upper layer soft cotton lining and the lower layer soft cotton lining; the thickness of the inner side arc of the sponge lining is greater than that of the outer side arc; wrapping the sponge lining and the black carbon lining with two layers of soft cotton linings, aligning the soft cotton linings with qs lines, and sewing around an outer arc; the shoulder pad is fixed on the open-spandrel lining, and the point v of the shoulder pad is aligned with the point e of the open-spandrel lining and is sewed.

Preferably, the method further comprises: a pocket drawing and cutting method of the universal interlining; the pocket drawing and cutting method of the universal exhibition liner comprises the following steps: from the parallel line with point g as f1f3 to point 1, the length of line segment g-1 is 0.054 ×; from point 1 to point 2, making the vertical line segment of line segment g-1, the length of line segment 1-2 is 0.025 type; drawing a point 3 on the line segment 1-2, wherein the length of the line segment 3-2 is 0.016 type; from point 2, the segment perpendicular to segment 1-2 to point 4, segment 4-2 being 0.125 x in length; from point 1 to point 5, making the vertical line segment of line segment g-1, the length of line segment 1-5 is 0.027 type; from point 4, a segment perpendicular to segment 4-2 to point 9 is drawn, and the length of segment 4-9 is equal to the length of segment 3-5; drawing a segment perpendicular to the segment g-1 from the point 5 to the point 6, drawing a segment perpendicular to the segment 4-9 from the point 9 to the point 8, wherein the length of the segment 6-5 is equal to the length of the segment 8-9 is equal to 0.011; parallel line segments 6-7 of the line segment 5-1 are drawn from a point 6, parallel line segments 8-10 of the line segment 9-4 are drawn from a point 8, the length of the line segments 6-7 is equal to the length of the line segments 8-10, the line segments are 0.019,

straight connection points

3, 5, 6, 7, 10, 8, 9 and 4 are respectively used for forming a concave shape, and the concave shape is used for digging holes in the upper pocket; drawing a point 11 on the segment hh2, wherein the length of the segment 11-h2 is 0.009 a type; from point 11 to both sides, parallel line segments of the line segment h2r2 to

points

14 and 12 are respectively drawn, the point 14 is an intersection point with an arc fg2f2, and the length of the line segment 11-12 is 0.026 x type; the length of the line segment 12-13 is 0.018 from the point 12, the arc fg2f2 of the line segment 12-14 is from the point 13 to the point 15, and the rectangle formed by the

connecting points

12, 13, 15 and 14 is used for digging holes in the lower pocket.

Preferably, the lapel lining is cut by a woven adhesive lining; the stretching lining is cut by a black carbon lining with sol, the front side is a smooth surface, the back side is a rough surface, and the rough surface is provided with particle sol and is used for bonding with the back side of the garment piece.

Preferably, the method further comprises: a method for shaping a stretching lining; the method for shaping the stretching lining comprises the following steps: putting the open lining into the oral cavity of a setting machine, pressurizing, heating and melting the granular glue on the rough surface of the lining cloth for bonding, and molding the three-dimensional shape of the western-style clothes; the setting ironing parameters are as follows: ironing the wet pad cloth at 150 deg.C under 294kpa for 13s, and shaping by one-step ironing.

The invention relates to a method for cutting a men's suit universal exhibition lining, which solves the problem of low matching degree between the lining cloth of the existing suit and the garment pieces, and has the following advantages:

the tailoring method of the invention draws the sizes of each part of the open and spread lining, the lapel lining and the shoulder pad according to the size, the lapel lining is sewed on the neckline part of the open and spread lining, the shoulder pad is sewed on the shoulder part of the open and spread lining, the lapel lining and the shoulder pad are respectively sewed with the open and spread lining and then are combined with the garment piece, and the garment piece, the open and spread lining, the lapel lining and the shoulder pad are placed in the mouth cavity for shaping by adopting a three-dimensional shaping machine, thereby not only improving the fit degree of the suit lining cloth and the garment piece, but also improving the lining cloth making efficiency.

The lining is made of black carbon with sol, the lining is made of viscose lining, the shoulder pad is made of soft cotton lining, sponge and black carbon with sol, and the suit is made of single-layer lining cloth, so that the weight of the suit is reduced, and the lining is made of soft and thin cloth and is favorable for the fit of the suit.

The shoulder pad fixing method is used for stabilizing the shoulder shape and improving the operability, the manufacturing is simple, the process route is short, batch production is easy based on one accessory of western-style clothes, and the shoulder pad fixing method is worthy of popularization.

Drawings

Fig. 1 is a schematic structural view of a stretcher pad, a shoulder pad and a lapel pad of the invention.

Fig. 2 is a schematic diagram of the cutting process of the extended liner dart board of the present invention.

FIG. 3 is a schematic view of the combined sewing process of the universal shoulder straps and the dart boards.

Fig. 4 is a schematic view of the lapel lining sewing, unfolding lining, returning, pulling, returning and pulling process of the invention.

FIG. 5 is a schematic view of the belt cutting and sewing process of the present invention.

Fig. 6 is a schematic diagram of the cutting process of the shoulder pad structure of the present invention.

FIG. 7 is a schematic view showing the arrangement of the soft cotton liner, sponge and black carbon liner of the present invention.

Fig. 8 is a schematic view of the shoulder pad sewing process of the present invention.

Fig. 9 is a schematic view of the process of combining the shoulder pad and the stretchable lining according to the present invention.

FIG. 10 is a schematic view of the hole digging process for cutting off the upper and lower pockets according to the present invention.

Fig. 11 is a schematic view of the process of combining the garment piece and the stretch panel of the present invention.

Fig. 12 is a schematic view of the bonding process of the garment piece, the unfolding lining, the lapel lining and the traction band.

FIG. 13 is a schematic view of the process of sewing the drawstring and the garment piece, the pocket cloth and the lining cloth.

Fig. 14 is a schematic view of the process for setting the body panels of the three-dimensional setting machine of the present invention.

Detailed Description

The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.

Example 1

A method for cutting open and spread lining of suit for men, take size 170/88A (size/type, middle size) as an example, open and spread lining refers to the lining cloth covering the shoulder, chest, waist, abdomen of the human body, and the structure is wide at the top and narrow at the bottom, cut by a piece of lining cloth, it surpasses the traditional lining cloth in the aspect of the shape, have shoulder stiff and plump, the characteristics of the chest is full, the waist and abdomen is open and flat, as shown in figure 1, the method comprises:

(1) drawing of a cartoon liner

The length of the line segment ab is-100 + 4.0-170-100 + 4.0-74 cm, which is used for drawing the length of the through-stretched lining. From point a, the segment ab is perpendicular to point d, and the length of segment ad is 0.30, 88, 26.4cm for the width of the liner. Drawing a point e on the line df from a point d, drawing a line de with the length of 0.051 type 0.051 88cm 4.488cm for shoulder slope drawing of the extending lining, and drawing a line ef with the length of 0.217 type 0.217 cm 88cm 19.096cm for armhole depth drawing of the extending lining. From the point f, the segment perpendicular to the line df to the point g is drawn, and the length of the line fg is 0.023 type 88cm 2.024cm, which is used for drawing the bottom end of the armhole of the extending lining. The g point and the b point are respectively taken as vertical lines of a segment fg and a segment ab and intersect at a vertical point f1, and the segments ad, df, fg, gf1, f1b and ba form the basic outline of the open-ended lining.

A point a1 is drawn on the line ab, and the line aa1 is 0.128-type 88-type 11.264cm long for drawing the collar of the passage lining. And drawing a point c on the line segment ab, wherein the length of the line segment ac is 0.5 to 88 to 44cm, and the point c is used for drawing the lapel length. A point a2 is drawn on the line segment ac, and the length of the line segment a1a2 is 0.054 ═ 88 ═ 4.752cm, for the overlap blending position point. Connecting points a1 and e, drawing a midpoint d3 on a line segment a1e, drawing a segment from the point d3 to d1 perpendicular to the line segment a1e from the point d3, wherein the length of the line segment d1d3 is 0.005 × 88 is 0.005 × 0.44cm, and the shoulder arcs are formed by arc connecting points a1, d1 and e and are used for drawing the shoulder arc line of the universal lining.

The segment d3d2 is 0.1 ═ 88 ═ 8.8cm in length, from point d3 to point d1d3 to point d2, and is drawn by the shoulder wedge opening through the spreading pad. Drawing a quarter point e1 close to the point f on the line df, drawing a point e2 in the basic outline, wherein the line e1e2 is perpendicular to the line ef, the length of the line e1e2 is 0.058 and 88 is 5.104cm, and the connecting points g, e2 and e of the arc form an armhole arc for drawing the armhole radian of the universal lining.

A center point g1 is drawn on the line gf1, and a perpendicular segment g1g2 of the line gf1 is drawn from a point g1, and the length of the line g1g2 is 0.04 cm or 88cm or 3.52 cm. A point f2 is drawn on the line segment f1b, the length of the line segment f1f2 is 0.055, 88 and 4.84cm, and the arc lines are respectively connected with the points g, g2 and f2 to form a side seam arc line, and the side seam arc line is drawn for opening and unfolding the lining.

A point r2 is drawn on the line cb, and the length of the line cr2 is 0.11 × 88 ═ 9.68 cm. The segment h2r2 is perpendicular to the line cb, the point h2 is located within the basic contour of the open liner, and the length of the line h2r2 is 0.16, 88, 14.08 cm. Perpendicular segments h2f3 and h2h are drawn from a point h2 to both sides of a segment h2r2, the segment h2f3 intersects with a segment f1b at a point f3, and the length of the segment h2h is 0.24-88-21.12 cm. A point h1 is drawn on the line h2r2, and the line h2h1 is 0.011 ═ 88 ═ 0.968 cm. The straight lines connect the points h and h1, and the line segments h2h, hh1 and h1h2 form a waist province, so that the waist province is drawn.

The segment r1r2 is perpendicular to the line cb, the point r1 is outside the basic contour of the open-ended lining, and the segment r1r2 is 0.011 and 88 is 0.968 cm. From r1, a parallel line of the segment r2a is drawn to the point r, and a point k is drawn on the segment r2b, and the length of the segment r1r is 0.006, and the length of the segment r2k is 0.006, 88 is 0.528 cm. A point k1 is drawn within the basic outline of the open liner, segment k1k is perpendicular to segment r2b, and segment k1k is 0.002 and 0.002 88 is 0.176 cm. The line segments rh1, h1k1, k1k, kr2, r2r1 constitute the bellyband, and are used for bellyband drawing.

A segment r2b extends from a point b to a point b1, a segment bb 1b2 perpendicular to the segment bb1 extends from the point b1 to a point f1, and the length of the segment bb1 is 0.022 type and 88 is 1.936cm from the segment b1b 2. Straight line connecting points b2 and f3, k1 and b2 are taken as a bisector b2b3 of the < k1b2f3, and the length of a line segment b2b3 is 0.028 and 88 is 2.464 cm. A third point k2 close to the point b2 is drawn on the line segment k1b2, a third point k3 close to the point f3 is drawn on the line segment f3b2, and the points k2, b3 and k3 are respectively connected by adopting arcs to form a circular pendulum for drawing the circular pendulum.

(2) Drawing of lapel lining

Drawing a line segment jm and vertical line segments jo and mp thereof, wherein the vertical line segments jo and mp are positioned on the same side of the line segment jm, the length of the line segment jm is 0.13-88-11.44 cm and used for drawing the width of the overlap head, the length of the line segment jo is 0.5-88-44 cm and used for drawing the length of the overlap head, and the length of the line segment mp is 0.092-88-8.096 cm and used for drawing the inclination of the overlap head. From the point o to the point n, the line on and the jm are located on the same side of the line jo, and the line on is 0.012 (88) 1.056cm, which is used for drawing the width of the lapel base. The straight lines connect the points p and n, a center point p2 is drawn on the line segment pn, a perpendicular segment p2p1 of the line segment pn is drawn outwards, the length of the line segment p2p1 is 0.006 ═ 88 ═ 0.528cm, and the arc lines connect the points p, p1 and n for drawing the extraoral radian of the lapel. The line segment jp, the arc pp1n, the line segments no and oj form a lapel for drawing the lapel.

The lapel lining is cut by a layer of bonded viscose lining.

(3) Drawing of shoulder pads

An isosceles triangle tqs is drawn, the length of the segment qs is 0.25 ═ 88 ═ 22cm, and the length of the segment qt is 0.19 ═ 88 ═ 16.72 cm. The middle points w and x of the line segments qt and ts are drawn respectively, and the perpendicular segments wu and xy of the line segments qt and ts are drawn outside the isosceles triangle tqs respectively, and the length of the line segment wu is 0.035 and 88 is 3.08 cm. The outer radian of the shoulder pad is formed by connecting points q, u, t, y and s by arcs. A neutral point z is drawn on a line qs, a straight line is used for connecting the points z and t, a point v is drawn on the line zt, the line zv is 0.011 type and 88 is 0.968cm, and the arc line connecting points q, v and s form the inner radian of the shoulder pad.

(4) Drawing of filler strip 1 and filler strip 2

As shown in FIG. 3, the furring strip 1 is in the shape of a wedge (or isosceles trapezoid) having a width of 3.0cm at its wide side and 1.0cm at its narrow side, and a length 1.0cm longer than d1d 2.

The pad strip 2 is L-shaped, the width of the pad strip 2 is 2.0cm, and the length of the two vertical sides is 1.0cm longer than that of the waist and the belly.

(5) Cutting out lining and provincial way

As shown in fig. 2 and 3, cutting along line segments a1c, cr, rr1, r1r2, r2k, kk1, k1k2, arc k2b3k3, line segments k3f3, f3f2, arc f2g2f, ge2e and ed1a1 to obtain a stretch fabric, wherein the front surface of the stretch fabric is a smooth surface, the back surface of the stretch fabric is a rough surface, and the rough surface is provided with particle sol for bonding with the back surface of the garment piece.

The cut is made along line segments rh1, h1k1, and k1k, and the belly cut of the stretcher is cut.

The cut is made along line segments h2h, hh1, and h1h2, leaving the waist of the open liner cut.

(6) Sewing of filler strip 1 and filler strip 2

The shoulder head opening wedge thread d1d2 is cut at the shoulder of leading to exhibition lining, breaks the opening part off with the fingers and thumb and is 1.0cm, sews up with filler strip 1, and filler strip 1 adopts the oblique yarn cotton cloth to cut out the system, takes lock stitch parallel sewing mode, and the parameter is: the needle code density is 13 needles/2.5 cm, and the seam type is 1.01.01/(301).

The waist province and the stomach province of the open and spread lining are sewed, the two provinces are combined to be in an L shape, the L shape is matched and sewed with the pad strip 2 on the rough surface (the reverse surface) of the open and spread lining, the pad strip 2 is also cut by adopting cotton diagonal yarn and is fixedly sewed by adopting a triangular needle, the sewing shape is 304 zigzag lock stitch, and the stitch code density is 12 needles/2.5 cm.

(7) Cutting and sewing of lapel and ironing by stretching and pulling

And (5) cutting along the line segments jp, the arc pp1n and the line segments no and oj to obtain the lapel.

As shown in fig. 4, at a point a2, a lapel is lined on the neck opening of the unfolding lining and is blended by 1.0cm, the lapel is smooth and faces upwards like the unfolding lining, the rough surface is arranged below (on the reverse side), the blended and overlapped part is fixedly sewn by a triangular needle, the sewing type is 304 zigzag lock stitch, and the stitch density is 12 needles/2.5 cm.

The lapel lining and the unfolding lining are sewed and then are subjected to heat treatment (namely, bending and ironing), and bending and ironing are carried out by utilizing an iron. The waist needs to be pulled out, the armpit, the shoulder and the circular pendulum need to be put back, and the pulled-out stretching lining shows the modeling requirements of plump chest, sunken waist and percussion in the circular pendulum. Ironing by adopting a cloth liner modeIroning and shaping, wherein the ironing parameters are as follows: the temperature is 150 ℃ and the pressure is 206-294 kpa (2.1 kgf/cm)²～3kgf/cm²) And the time is 6s, and an intermittent ironing technology is adopted.

(8) Cutting and sewing of traction bands

As shown in fig. 5, the drawstring was cut with a pass-through liner side stitch and a circular cycloid (the drawstring was cut around the line segment and the shape formed by the points g, g2, f2, f3, b3, k1, and o) and was cut with a spun-bonded liner bias yarn having a drawstring width of 2.0 cm.

Half of the width of the cut traction belt is overlapped to a side seam and a circular pendulum part, a triangular needle is adopted for fixing and sewing, the sewing is required to be sewed on a smooth surface, the sewing type is a 304-zigzag lock stitch, and the stitch code density is 12 needles/2.5 cm.

(9) Cutting and sewing shoulder pad

As shown in fig. 6-8, the soft cotton lining is cut according to the drawn shoulder pad shape, the thickness is 0.2cm, and the sponge lining and the black carbon lining are wrapped between the upper soft cotton lining and the lower soft cotton lining. The sponge lining of the shoulder pad is cut into a layer with a thickness of 0.3cm at the inner side and 0.1cm at the outer side, and is in a tile shape (matched with the curvature of the shoulder of a human body). The black carbon lining of the shoulder pad is cut into a layer with a thickness of 0.1cm and a tile shape, which is smaller than the sponge lining by 1.5 cm. And (3) wrapping the sponge lining and the black carbon lining by two layers of soft cotton linings, aligning the soft cotton linings by qs threads, adopting a triangular needle for fixing and sewing, wherein the sewing type is a 304-zigzag lock stitch, the stitch code density is 8 needles/2.5 cm, and sewing three threads around an outer arc.

As shown in figure 9, the shoulder pad is fixed on the open-extension lining, the arc midpoint v of the shoulder pad is aligned with the lower point e of the open-extension lining, the shoulder pad is fixed by hand needle on the front arc edge of the shoulder pad, and the shoulder pad is not sewed at the position 3.0cm away from the shoulder (the shoulder seam for the open-extension lining is sewed with the shoulder seam of the back garment piece).

(10) Cutting out pocket of open lining

As shown in fig. 10, from the parallel line f1f3 at point g to point 1, the length of line segment g-1 is 0.054, 88, 4.752 cm. From point 1 to point 2, the length of line 1-2 is 0.025-88-2.2 cm. Point 3 is drawn on line segment 1-2, and line segment 3-2 has a length of 0.016 88 1.408 cm. From point 2, which is a perpendicular to line 1-2, to point 4, line 4-2 has a length of 0.125 ═ 88 ═ 11 cm. From point 1 to point 5, the length of line 1-5 is 0.027-88-2.376 cm. From point 4, a segment perpendicular to segment 4-2 is drawn up to point 9, and the length of segment 4-9 is equal to the length of segment 3-5. From point 5, a segment perpendicular to the segment g-1 to point 6, from point 9, a segment 4-9 to point 8, and the length of the segment 6-5 is 0.011 and 88 is 0.968 cm. Parallel line segments 6-7 of line segments 5-1 are drawn from point 6, parallel line segments 8-10 of line segments 9-4 are drawn from point 8, the length of line segments 6-7 is 0.019 ═ 88 ═ 1.672cm, and straight line connection points 3, 5, 6, 7, 10, 8, 9 and 4 are respectively used for forming a concave shape for upper pocket hole digging.

The point 11 is drawn on the line hh2, and the length of the line segment 11-h2 is 0.009, 88 is 0.792 cm. From point 11 to both sides, parallel line segments of line segment h2r2 to

points

14 and 12 are drawn, point 14 is the intersection point with arc fg2f2, and the length of line segment 11-12 is 0.026 ═ 88 ═ 2.288 cm. The length of the line segment 12-13 is 0.018 ═ 88 ═ 1.584cm from the point 12 to the point 13, the intersection line fg2f2 of the parallel line of the line segment 12-14 from the point 13 to the point 15, and the rectangle formed by the connection points 12, 13, 15 and 14 is used for digging holes in the lower pocket.

(11) Production of universal lining

As shown in fig. 11 to 13, the rough surface of the lining is set to be aligned with the reverse side of the garment piece, the chest, the waist, the upper pocket digging hole, the lower pocket digging hole, the circular pendulum and the lapel of the lining are respectively overlapped on the corresponding positions of the garment piece, and the upper pocket cloth and the lower pocket cloth are drawn out. An iron is adopted to bond a traction belt and a lapel lining (colloidal sol is arranged on the rough surface of the lapel lining) preliminarily, and then a hand needle is adopted to fix the side seam of the open lining and the outer side of the lower pocket and fix one side of the upper pocket and the lower pocket.

(12) Stretching lining shaping method

As shown in figure 14, the shaping is carried out by a three-dimensional shaping machine, the upper and lower ironing dies of the three-dimensional shaping machine are the same as the chest surface of the western-style clothes, the garment piece and the open-and-spread lining are put into the oral cavity of the shaping machine to be pressed and heated to melt the granular glue on the rough surface of the lining cloth for bonding, and the adhesive is used for bondingAnd the three-dimensional shape of the suit is shaped. The setting ironing parameters are as follows: the temperature was 150 ℃ and the pressure was 294kpa (2.1 kgf/cm)²～3kgf/cm²) And ironing the wet pad cloth for 13s, and performing one-time ironing and shaping.

While the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood that the above description should not be taken as limiting the invention. Various modifications and alterations to this invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art upon reading the foregoing description. Accordingly, the scope of the invention should be determined from the following claims.

Claims

1. A method for tailoring a men's suit bootie, the method comprising: drawing method of the extension lining, the lapel lining and the shoulder pad;

the method for drawing the substrate comprises the following steps:

drawing a line segment ab, wherein the length of the line segment ab is-100 +4.0, and the line segment ab is used for drawing the length of the universal lining; drawing a segment from a point a to a point d, wherein the segment ad has a length of 0.30 and is used for drawing the width of the extending lining; drawing a point e on a line df from a point d, wherein the length of the line de is 0.051 and is used for drawing shoulder slope of the extending lining, and the length of the line ef is 0.217 and is used for drawing armhole depth of the extending lining; drawing a vertical line segment of the line segment df from the point f to a point g, wherein the length of the line segment fg is 0.023 to be used for drawing the bottom end of the armhole of the extending lining; the g point and the b point are taken as vertical lines of a segment fg and a segment ab respectively and intersect at a vertical point f1, and the segments ad, df, fg, gf1, f1b and ba form the basic outline of the open-ended lining;

drawing a point a1 on a line ab, wherein the length of the line aa1 is 0.128-point type and is used for drawing a collar of the extending lining; drawing a point c on a line segment ab, wherein the length of the line segment ac is 0.5 x type and is used for drawing the lapel length; drawing a point a2 on the line segment ac, the length of the line segment a1a2 being 0.054 x type for the lapel blending position point; straight line connecting points a1 and e, wherein a midpoint d3 is drawn on a line segment a1e, a segment perpendicular to the line segment a1e is drawn from the point d3 to a point d1, the length of the line segment d1d3 is 0.005, and arc line connecting points a1, d1 and e form a shoulder arc line;

extending a line segment d1d3 from a point d3 to a point d2, wherein the length of the line segment d3d2 is 0.1-88, and the line segment is used for drawing a shoulder wedge opening line through the spreading pad; drawing a quarter point e1 close to the point f on the line df, drawing a point e2 in the basic outline, wherein the line e1e2 is perpendicular to the line ef, the length of the line e1e2 is 0.058, and arc connecting points g, e2 and e form an armhole arc;

drawing a segment g1g2 perpendicular to a line segment gf1 from a point g1, wherein a point g1 is drawn on the line segment gf1, and the length of the line segment g1g2 is 0.04 ×; drawing a point f2 on a line segment f1b, wherein the length of the line segment f1f2 is 0.055, and connecting points g, g2 and f2 by arcs respectively form a side seam arc;

drawing a point r2 on the segment cb, wherein the length of the segment cr2 is 0.11 ×; drawing a segment h2r2 perpendicular to line cb, point h2 lying within the general outline of the open liner, segment h2r2 being 0.16 x in length; perpendicular segments h2f3 and h2h are drawn from a point h2 to two sides of a line segment h2r2, the perpendicular segment h2f3 and the line segment f1b are intersected at a point f3, and the length of the line segment h2h is 0.24 ═ type; drawing a point h1 on a segment h2r2, wherein the segment h2h1 is 0.011; the straight line connecting points h and h1 and the line segments h2h, hh1 and h1h2 form a waist province;

drawing a perpendicular segment r1r2 of the line cb, the point r1 being outside the basic outline of the open liner, the line r1r2 being 0.011 type; drawing a point k on a line segment r2b from a point r1 to a point r which is parallel to a line segment r2a, wherein the length of the line segment r1r is equal to the length of the line segment r2k is equal to 0.006 type; drawing a point k1 within the basic outline of the open liner, with segment k1k perpendicular to segment r2b, segment k1k being 0.002 type; the line segments rh1, h1k1, k1k, kr2 and r2r1 form a bellowed part;

a segment r2b is extended from a point b to a point b1, a segment b1b2 perpendicular to a segment bb1 is drawn from the point b1 to a point f1, and the length of the segment bb1 is equal to the length of the segment b1b2, which is 0.022 type; straight line connecting points b2 and f3, k1 and b2, a bisector b2b3 of < k1b2f3, and a segment b2b3 is 0.028 x in length; a third point k2 close to a point b2 is drawn on a line segment k1b2, a third point k3 close to a point f3 is drawn on a line segment f3b2, and connecting points k2, b3 and k3 are respectively connected by adopting an arc line to form a circular pendulum;

the drawing method of the lapel lining comprises the following steps:

drawing a line segment jm and vertical line segments jo and mp thereof, wherein the vertical line segments jo and mp are positioned on the same side of the line segment jm, the length of the line segment jm is 0.13-type and used for drawing the width of the lapel, the length of the line segment jo is 0.5-type and used for drawing the length of the lapel, and the line segment mp is 0.092-type and used for drawing the inclination of the lapel; from a point o to a point n, a vertical line segment of the line segment jo is drawn, the line segment on and the line segment jm are positioned on the same side of the line segment jo, and the line segment on is 0.012-type and is used for drawing the width of the lapel base; the straight lines are connected with the points p and n, a center point p2 is drawn on the line segment pn, a perpendicular line segment p2p1 of the line segment pn is drawn towards the outside, the length of the line segment p2p1 is 0.006, and the arc lines are used for connecting the points p, p1 and n and drawing the radian of the external opening of the lapel; the line segment jp, the arc pp1n, the line segments no and oj form a lapel;

the method for drawing the shoulder pad comprises the following steps:

drawing an isosceles triangle tqs, wherein the length of the line segment qs is 0.25, and the length of the line segment qt is 0.19; drawing the middle points w and x of the line segments qt and ts respectively, and drawing perpendicular line segments wu and xy of the line segments qt and ts respectively outside the isosceles triangle tqs, wherein the length of the line segment wu is equal to the length of the line segment xy which is equal to 0.035 type; connecting points q, u, t, y and s by using arcs to form an outer radian of the shoulder pad; a midpoint z is drawn on a line qs, a straight line is used for connecting the points z and t, a point v is drawn on a line zt, the line zv is 0.011 type, and an arc line is used for connecting the points q, v and s to form the inner radian of the shoulder pad.

2. The method of tailoring a men's suit bootie according to claim 1 further comprising: drawing and sewing a first filler strip and a second filler strip;

the drawing and sewing method of the first filler strip and the second filler strip comprises the following steps:

the first filler strip is in a wedge shape, and the length of the first filler strip is greater than that of the line segment d1d 2; the second filler strip is L-shaped, and the length of two vertical sides of the L-shaped is longer than that of the waist and belly provinces;

cutting according to the waist and belly dart structure, sewing the waist and belly dart, and sewing the second pad strip at the waist and belly dart position on the reverse side of the open and spread lining;

the shoulder opening wedge line d1d2 is cut at the shoulder of the open lining, and is broken and sewed with the pad strip.

3. The method for cutting a men's suit open-style interlining according to claim 2, wherein the first and second filler strips are cut with an inclined cotton cloth; the first padding strip is sewn in a lock stitch flat sewing mode; and the second pad strip is sewn by 304 zigzag lock stitch.

4. The method of tailoring a men's suit bootie according to claim 1 further comprising: cutting and sewing method of lapel;

the cutting and sewing method of the lapel comprises the following steps:

and cutting according to the structure of the lapel to obtain a lapel lining, and blending and sewing the lapel lining and the neckline of the lapel lining at the point a2 of the lapel lining.

5. The method of tailoring a men's suit lining according to claim 4, further comprising: a method for stretching, ironing and pressing a liner;

the method for ironing the unfolding lining comprises the following steps:

refute first lining and lead to the exhibition lining and sew up the back, utilize the flatiron to return and pull out, pull out at the waist and handle, return into at armpit, shoulder, round pendulum and advance the processing, return to pull out to iron and take the floorcloth mode to iron the design, the parameter of ironing is: the temperature is 150 ℃, the pressure is 206-294 kpa, and the time is 6s, and the intermittent ironing technology is adopted.

6. The method of tailoring a men's suit bootie according to claim 1 further comprising: cutting and sewing method of the traction belt;

the cutting and sewing method of the traction belt comprises the following steps:

and cutting the traction belt according to the shape of the open lining side stitch and the circular pendulum line, and superposing one half of the cut traction belt on the side seam and the circular pendulum part.

7. The method of tailoring a men's suit bootie according to claim 1 further comprising: cutting and sewing method of shoulder pad;

the cutting and sewing method of the shoulder pad comprises the following steps:

cutting the soft cotton lining according to the drawn shoulder pad shape, wherein the shapes of the sponge lining and the black carbon lining are consistent with the shape of the soft cotton lining, the soft cotton lining is wider than the periphery of the sponge lining by a distance, the sponge lining is wider than the periphery of the black carbon lining by a distance, and the sponge lining and the black carbon lining are wrapped between the upper layer soft cotton lining and the lower layer soft cotton lining;

the thickness of the inner side arc of the sponge lining is greater than that of the outer side arc;

wrapping the sponge lining and the black carbon lining with two layers of soft cotton linings, aligning the soft cotton linings with qs lines, and sewing around an outer arc;

the shoulder pad is fixed on the open-spandrel lining, and the point v of the shoulder pad is aligned with the point e of the open-spandrel lining and is sewed.

8. The method of tailoring a men's suit bootie according to claim 1 further comprising: a pocket drawing and cutting method of the universal interlining;

the pocket drawing and cutting method of the universal exhibition liner comprises the following steps:

from the parallel line with point g as f1f3 to point 1, the length of line segment g-1 is 0.054 ×; from point 1 to point 2, making the vertical line segment of line segment g-1, the length of line segment 1-2 is 0.025 type; drawing a point 3 on the line segment 1-2, wherein the length of the line segment 3-2 is 0.016 type; from point 2, the segment perpendicular to segment 1-2 to point 4, segment 4-2 being 0.125 x in length; from point 1 to point 5, making the vertical line segment of line segment g-1, the length of line segment 1-5 is 0.027 type; from point 4, a segment perpendicular to segment 4-2 to point 9 is drawn, and the length of segment 4-9 is equal to the length of segment 3-5; drawing a segment perpendicular to the segment g-1 from the point 5 to the point 6, drawing a segment perpendicular to the segment 4-9 from the point 9 to the point 8, wherein the length of the segment 6-5 is equal to the length of the segment 8-9 is equal to 0.011; parallel line segments 6-7 of the line segment 5-1 are drawn from a point 6, parallel line segments 8-10 of the line segment 9-4 are drawn from a point 8, the length of the line segments 6-7 is equal to the length of the line segments 8-10, the line segments are 0.019, straight connection points 3, 5, 6, 7, 10, 8, 9 and 4 are respectively used for forming a concave shape, and the concave shape is used for digging holes in the upper pocket;

drawing a point 11 on the segment hh2, wherein the length of the segment 11-h2 is 0.009 a type; from point 11 to both sides, parallel line segments of the line segment h2r2 to points 14 and 12 are respectively drawn, the point 14 is an intersection point with an arc fg2f2, and the length of the line segment 11-12 is 0.026 x type; the length of the line segment 12-13 is 0.018 from the point 12, the arc fg2f2 of the line segment 12-14 is from the point 13 to the point 15, and the rectangle formed by the connecting points 12, 13, 15 and 14 is used for digging holes in the lower pocket.

9. The method for cutting men's suit open-style interlining according to claim 1, wherein the lapel interlining is cut by using a woven adhesive interlining; the stretching lining is cut by a black carbon lining with sol, the front side is a smooth surface, the back side is a rough surface, and the rough surface is provided with particle sol and is used for bonding with the back side of the garment piece.

10. The method of tailoring a men's suit bootie according to claim 9, further comprising: a method for shaping a stretching lining;

the method for shaping the stretching lining comprises the following steps: putting the open lining into the oral cavity of a setting machine, pressurizing, heating and melting the granular glue on the rough surface of the lining cloth for bonding, and molding the three-dimensional shape of the western-style clothes; the setting ironing parameters are as follows: ironing the wet pad cloth at 150 deg.C under 294kpa for 13s, and shaping by one-step ironing.