CN113907458A - Method for making women's necktie - Google Patents
Method for making women's necktie Download PDFInfo
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- CN113907458A CN113907458A CN202111443225.0A CN202111443225A CN113907458A CN 113907458 A CN113907458 A CN 113907458A CN 202111443225 A CN202111443225 A CN 202111443225A CN 113907458 A CN113907458 A CN 113907458A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D1/00—Garments
- A41D1/22—Clothing specially adapted for women, not otherwise provided for
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D25/00—Neckties
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
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Abstract
The invention discloses a method for manufacturing a female necktie, which comprises the following steps: 1) respectively drawing a cut piece, a sleeve piece, a collar piece and a bow tie by adopting a folding method; 2) respectively cutting the drawn garment piece, sleeve piece, collar piece and collar tie into wool sample plates, then bonding non-woven bonding lining cloth at the collar piece, collar tie and collar lap positions of the garment piece, and cutting the non-woven bonding lining cloth into the same size as the collar piece, collar tie and collar lap positions of the garment piece; 3) sewing according to the processing steps of the garment piece, the sleeve piece, the collar piece and the bow tie, sewing the invisible zipper in the back of the garment piece, pinching the pleat part by the W fold, and then sewing by adopting a pointed nut in a mode of controlling the pleat of the neck opening by the bow tie. The invention converts the chest dart as the belt shape of the tie into the collar pleat, and adopts the tie knot to control the pleat to form the tie style, on one hand, the invention reforms the traditional tie dress form, on the other hand, the invention connects the collar head on the clothes and forms the appearance style of the tie with the collar pleat.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to women's clothes, in particular to a manufacturing method of a necktie women's clothes.
Background
In the conventional tie making, the tie is usually made separately and tied with the collar of the clothes to show the integral shape of the tie and the clothes. Conventional ties are made separately and tied to require different materials. It also takes a certain time to make, which affects the cost of making and the efficiency of wearing the tie. In addition, for the separate use of the necktie, it is necessary to learn to tie the necktie. At present, more and more tie methods are used, the tie difficulty is increased, and the wearing popularization rate of the tie is low. Secondly, the traditional women's clothing mostly adopts a front and back garment piece separation method, a collar separation method and a province road separation method in the aspect of drawing, which is not beneficial to structural drawing. The drawing steps are increased, the data are disordered, and the matching among the structural parts is improper. The traditional suit-dress structure does not need to add chest dart in the aspect of design of neckline pleats, and directly widens the front fly structure, so that the manufacture is not beneficial to the flat clothes of the neckline and the structural requirement of controlling the pleats of the tie.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the defects in the prior art, the invention aims to provide a method for manufacturing female necktie garments with a necktie shape by controlling pleats through a bow tie, so as to reform the dressing form of the traditional necktie tying.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
a method for manufacturing a female necktie comprises the following steps:
1) respectively drawing a garment piece, a sleeve piece, a collar piece and a bow tie by adopting a folding method, wherein the garment piece is of an integral structure, and the garment piece is drawn by adopting a front and rear garment piece combined method by taking a front middle line section of the suit-dress as a folding line; the garment piece comprises a collar, shoulders, armholes, waist provinces, a collar arranged at the front collar of the garment piece and a pleat part containing chest provinces, wherein the pleat part comprises a collar used for being scalded into the collar to play a supporting role and a front pleat part positioned at the front collar; the sleeve piece is of a folded structure, the collar piece is of a lapel and bottom collar connecting structure, and the collar knot is of a one-piece structure; the collar of the garment pieces is used for forming a front collar part, the collar piece is used for forming a rear collar part, and the collar of the garment pieces and the collar piece form a collar of the suit-dress together;
2) respectively cutting the drawn garment piece, sleeve piece, collar piece and collar tie into wool sample plates, then bonding non-woven bonding lining cloth at the collar piece, collar tie and collar lap positions of the garment piece, and cutting the non-woven bonding lining cloth into the same size as the collar piece, collar tie and collar lap positions of the garment piece;
3) sewing the dart at the bottom of the armhole of the garment piece, butt-jointing and sewing the collar piece and the collar head, sewing the garment piece and the bottom edge of the sleeve piece by adopting a curling process, sewing the front and back shoulder peaks of the garment piece, sewing the bottom edge of the collar piece and the collar opening of the garment piece, sewing the sleeve piece and the armhole, sewing an invisible zipper in the back of the garment piece, pinching the pleat part to be W-folded, and sewing by adopting a pointed nut in a manner of controlling the pleat of the collar opening by utilizing a collar knot, thereby finishing the manufacture of the necktie-suit for women.
Further, the points included in the drawing of the cut pieces in the step 1) include a back garment upper point a, a back collar lower point c, a back collar transverse point a1, a back neck point b, a back collar curvature point a2, a back collar inclination point a3, a back shoulder point b1, a back transverse back midpoint c1, a back transverse back right point b2, a back arm hole vertical point e, a back arm hole curvature point e1, a back chest point c2, a chest large point e2, a back waist midpoint d, a back waist large point d1, a waist side point f, a hip side point f1, a back garment length point n1, a front garment length point n, a front chest midpoint m 42, a front width point m1, a front width left point g1, a front arm hole vertical point g, a front arm hole curvature point g2, a front shoulder width point k 5, a front collar lower point m, a front collar height point h, a front collar knot height point h1i, a front collar width point j1i, a front collar inclination point j, a front collar base point 2, a front neck point p-tip extension point e, a front neck point e2, a front neck point p-t, a front neck point p-t 599, a front neck point p-t, a front point p-t, a front point p-t, a front point e, a front neck point p-t, The front lapel right point h2, the front bottom collar left inflection point q2, the front bottom collar right inflection point q3, the front bottom collar left point o2, the front bottom collar right point o3 and the front waist large point d2, wherein a back middle line segment an1 is parallel to the front middle line segment hn and is respectively perpendicular to a bottom line segment n1n, and the line segment an1 is 0.451 cm; line segment hn is 0.464 cm; a line segment n1n is 0.553 × type cm; the armhole deep line segment ac2 is 0.273 x type cm; the line segment c2m2 connecting the back chest point c2 and the front chest midpoint m2 is perpendicular to the line segment an 1; the rear transverse back width depth line segment ac1 is 0.175 x type cm; c1 point is used as a vertical line segment c1b2 of the back middle line segment an1, and the line segment c1b2 is 0.201 x type cm; the depth line section ac of the back collar is 0.027 multiplied by type cm; the lower collar horizontal line segment ca2 is aa1 is 0.041 multiplied by type cm; the upper horizontal collar line segment ab of the back collar is 0.083 multiplied by type cm; the line ab and the line ca2 are respectively perpendicular to the back median line an 1; connecting a point a1a2 by a straight line segment, wherein the line segment a1a3 is an angle bisector of ═ ba1a2, and the line segment a1a3 is 0.033 × type cm; connecting the points b, a3 and a2 in sequence by arcs to form a back neck pit structure; rear shoulder angle abb1 is 160 degrees, shoulder line segment bb1 is 0.145 multiplied by type cm; chest large line segment c2e2 is 0.273 × type cm; connecting points e2 and b2 by straight lines, taking the midpoint e of a line segment e2b2, enabling a line segment ee1 to be perpendicular to the line segment e2b2, and enabling the line segment ee1 to be 0.02 x cm; connecting the points b1, b2, e1 and e2 in sequence by arcs to form a rear armhole and fossa structure; the back waist section deep line segment ad is 0.245 multiplied by cm; the rear waist line dd2 is 0.297 x type cm; a point e2 is used for drawing a vertical line e2f1 downwards to form an intersection point f with a line segment dd2, wherein the line segment e2f is f1f is 0.195 multiplied by type cm; a line segment fd1 ═ fd2 ═ 0.023 × cm; a straight line segment is sequentially connected with e2, d1, f1, d2 and e2 to form a dart structure; the front chest width height line segment m2m1 is 0.067 multiplied by type cm; a vertical line segment m1g1 of the line segment hn is defined as a point m1, and the line segment m1g1 is 0.229 × type cm; connecting points g1 and e2 by using a straight line, wherein g is the midpoint of a line segment g1e2, a line segment gg2 is at the position of a middle perpendicular line of the line segment g1e2, and the line segment gg2 is 0.017 multiplied by cm; the front neckline deep line section hm is 0.047 multiplied by type cm; a vertical line segment mj1 of the line segment hn is taken as a point m, and the line segment mj1 is 0.202 multiplied by type cm; a collar vertical straight line segment j1k is perpendicular to a line segment mj1, and the line segment j1k is 0.048 multiplied by type cm; the front shoulder angle j1kk1 is 45 degrees; connecting the points k1, g1, g2 and e2 in sequence by using an arc to form a front sleeve gallery structure; the pleat segment h1m is 0.091 × type cm; the collar width line segment h1i3 is 0.054 × type cm; the collar head i1i3h1 is 86 degrees as equal to the angle ih1m, and the collar elevation line segment i3j is 0.003 x cm; line ji1 ═ 0.033 × type cm; line segment h1i ═ 0.029 × type cm; angle h1ih2 is 166 °; line ih2 ═ 0.075 × cm; angle ji1k2 is 175 degrees; the line segment i1k2 is 0.063 × type cm; an upper collar head structure which is composed of points k2, q2, o2, o3, q3 and h2 as contour points is symmetrical about a middle axis line segment k2h2 and a lower collar head structure which is composed of points k2, i1, i3, h1, i and h2 as contour points, an anterior collar pit inclination line segment j1i2 is an angular line of ═ kj1i3, and a line segment j1i2 is 0.031 multiplied by type cm; the front neck fossa structure is formed by connecting points k, i2 and j in sequence by arcs, namely contour points of the folded garment piece sequentially comprise c, n1, n, h1, i, h2, q3, o3, o2, q2, k2, i1, j, i2, k1, g1, g2, e2, e1, b2, b1, b, a3 and a2, wherein a front middle line section hn is a folding line, and the garment piece is a structure symmetrical about the folding line.
Further, the points included in the step 1) when drawing the sleeve include a sleeve top point z, a sleeve length point x, a sleeve top point x1, a first sleeve top vertical point z1, a first sleeve top curvature point w1, a sleeve top oblique midpoint w, a second sleeve top vertical point y1, a second sleeve top curvature point w2, a sleeve fat point z2, a rear sleeve arc meridian point y, an outer cuff point y2 and a cuff big point x 2; wherein, the middle line zx of the sleeve is 0.25 × type cm; sleeve mountain depth line zx1 is 0.12 × type cm; the sleeve fat line segment x1z2 is vertical to the line segment zx, and the line segment x1z2 is xy2 is 0.22 x cm; a straight line connecting point zz2 is used for forming an sleeve mountain oblique line, and an upper mark line segment zz1 is 0.062 multiplied by type cm; subscript line segment z2y1 ═ 0.06 × type cm; a segment z1w1 is perpendicular to a segment zz2, a segment y1w2 is perpendicular to a segment zz2, and the segment z1w1 is 0.02 × cm; the line segment y1w2 is 0.015 × type cm; the line segment zw is 0.135 × type cm; connecting points z, w1, w2 and z2 in sequence by using arcs to form a front sleeve mountain structure, wherein a point y is positioned at the midpoint of a line segment y1w2, and connecting points z, w1, y and z2 in sequence by using arcs to form a rear sleeve mountain structure; the cuff contraction line segment y2x2 is 0.023 x type cm; the front sleeve body contour points of the sleeve pieces sequentially comprise z, w1, w2, z2, x2 and x; the rear sleeve body contour points of the sleeve piece sequentially comprise z, w1, y, z2, x2 and x; the front sleeve body contour and the back sleeve body contour are unfolded by a central axis line zx to form the folded sleeve sheet with one sheet structure.
Further, the points included in the step 1) when drawing the collar include a collar back upper middle point s, a collar back lower middle point s1, a collar back lower middle point t1, a bottom collar back upper middle point v, a collar back middle point t, a collar head point r3, a collar folding point u, a bottom collar head lower point s2, a collar connecting point l, a collar piece middle point l1, a collar upper bending point r, a bottom collar inner bending point r1 and a bottom collar lower bending point r2, wherein a collar middle line segment ss1 is 0.103 × type cm; the base line section st of the upturned collar is 0.016 multiplied by type cm; the line segment tu is perpendicular to the line segment ss1, and the line segment tu is 0.061 × cm; the connecting line lu between the lapel and the bottom collar is 1.0 cm; the neck inner opening curvature index line segment tl1 is 0.076 multiplied by type cm; the inner opening upper bending line section tt1 is 0.013 x type cm after lapel; the inner opening lower bent line section tv is 0.007 × cm; line segment l1r ═ 0.011 × type cm; line segment l1r1 ═ 0.005 × type cm; sequentially connecting points l, r and t1 by using an arc to form a lapel lower collar radian, sequentially connecting points l, r1 and v by using an arc to form a bottom collar upper collar radian, drawing a line segment sr3 to be vertical to a line segment ss1, wherein the line segment sr3 is 0.164 multiplied by type cm; a lapel collar structure is formed by straight connecting points r3 and u; angle lus2 is 99 °; the bottom leader line segment us2 is 0.033 multiplied by type cm; the line segment r1r2 is 0.035 × cm; connecting the points s2, r2 and s1 in sequence by arcs to form a bottom collar lower opening radian; namely, the folded contour points of the collar piece sequentially comprise s, t1, r, l, r1, v, s1, r2, s2, u and r3, wherein a line segment sr3 is a folding line, and the collar piece is in a structure symmetrical about the folding line.
Further, the points included in the drawing of the bow tie in the step 1) include a bow tie upper middle point o, a bow tie lower middle point o1, a bow tie left tip point p1, a bow tie left lower oblique point q1, a bow tie lower wide point p and a bow tie lower wide outer point q; wherein, the middle line segment oo1 of the bow tie is 0.041 multiplied by type cm; angle o1op1 is 103 °; the line segment o1p is perpendicular to the line segment oo1, and the line segment o1p is 0.017 × cm; copying a left structure of the bow tie which is formed by taking the points o, p1, p and o1 as contour points into a right structure of the bow tie which is formed by taking the points p1, q1, q and p as contour points by taking the line segment p1p as a symmetry axis; namely, the contour points after the bow tie is folded sequentially comprise o, p1, q1, q, p and o1, wherein a bow tie middle line segment oo1 is a folding line, and the bow tie is a structure symmetrical about the folding line.
Further, when the garment pieces, the sleeve pieces, the collar pieces and the tie in the step 2) are cut into wool sample plates, 3.0 cm folded edges are arranged outside the bottom edges of the garment pieces, and 1.0cm sewn ends are arranged at the rest boundary parts of the garment pieces; 3.0 cm hems are arranged outside the bottom edges of the sleeve pieces, and 1.0cm sewing heads are arranged at the rest boundary parts of the sleeve pieces; the peripheries of the collar piece and the bow tie are provided with 1.0cm of sewing heads.
Further, in the step 2), the non-woven adhesive lining cloth is bonded at the collar and the collar fold of the garment piece, and the bonding parameters are set as follows: the temperature is 148 ℃, the pressure is 188 kpa-294 kpa, and the time is 5 s; and (3) bonding the non-woven bonding lining cloth at the collar sheets and the collar knots, wherein the bonding parameters are set as follows: the temperature is 148 ℃, the pressure is 188 kpa-294 kpa, and the time is 7 s.
Furthermore, in the step 3), sewing the dart at two sides of the garment piece, butt-jointing and sewing the collar piece and the collar head, sewing the bottom edges of the garment piece and the sleeve piece by adopting a hemming process, sewing front and rear shoulders of the garment piece and sewing the sleeve piece and the armhole by adopting flat sewing stitches, wherein the sewing parameters are 13 needles/2.5 cm; the bottom edge of the collar piece and the collar of the garment piece are sewn by adopting a collar stitching process, and the sewing parameter is 13 needles/2.5 cm; the invisible zipper is sewn in the back of the garment piece by adopting a partial pressure sewing process, and the sewing parameter is 13 needles/2.5 cm.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following technical effects:
the chest dart is used as the belt shape of the tie and is converted into the collar pleat, and the tie style in the shape is formed by the knot control pleat, so that the wearing form of the traditional tie is improved, and the appearance style of the tie is formed by connecting the collar head on the clothes piece and the collar pleat.
Compared with the traditional necktie drawing method, the drawing of the necktie women belongs to a new cutting method, the drawn structure is cut into wool sample plates, and the tailoring is carried out according to the process steps of garment pieces, sleeve pieces, collar pieces and bow ties.
The front garment piece and the rear garment piece are integrally drawn and cut, so that the production efficiency in the aspects of garment drawing, cutting, typesetting and the like can be greatly improved; the invention adopts the belt which is converted into the tie from the chest dart to reduce the dressing convention of tying the tie, on one hand, the problem that the female dress dart is only single function due to the raised chest is solved, and on the other hand, the invention has the effect of saving two functions. The invention adopts the novel disjunction type collar instead of the traditional collar, and compared with the traditional collar, the novel disjunction type collar has the advantages of reducing the working procedures and improving the manufacturing efficiency.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic view of a panel constructed according to the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a schematic view of the structure of a sleeve according to the present invention;
FIG. 3 is a schematic view of the structure of a collar piece according to the present invention;
FIG. 4 is a schematic view of a bow tie constructed in accordance with the present invention;
FIG. 5 is a schematic view of a panel seam allowance of the present invention;
FIG. 6 is a schematic view illustrating a structure of sewing the sleeve and the sleeve;
FIG. 7 is a view illustrating the sewing and bonding process for collar piece according to the present invention;
FIG. 8 is a drawing of the dart manufacturing process of the cut pieces of the present invention;
FIG. 9 is a schematic view of the bonding process of the neck of the garment piece of the present invention;
FIG. 10 is a schematic view of the sewing process of the collar, the collar head and the shoulder peak of the present invention;
FIG. 11 is a schematic view of a sleeve stitching process of the present invention;
FIG. 12 is a schematic view of the bow tie head and the manufacturing process of the present invention;
FIG. 13 is a schematic view of the bow tie and pleat formation process of the present invention;
FIG. 14 is a schematic view of the manufacturing process of the concealed slide fastener of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be explained in further detail with reference to examples.
The embodiment provides a manufacturing method of a female tie, which comprises the following steps of: 160/84A, for example, comprises the following steps:
1) respectively drawing a garment piece, a sleeve piece, a collar piece and a bow tie by adopting a folding method, wherein the garment piece is of an integral structure, and the garment piece is drawn by adopting a front and rear garment piece combined method by taking a front middle line section of the suit-dress as a folding line; the garment piece comprises a collar, shoulders, armholes, waist provinces, a collar arranged at the front collar of the garment piece and a pleat part containing chest provinces, wherein the pleat part comprises a collar used for being scalded into the collar to play a supporting role and a front pleat part positioned at the front collar; the sleeve piece is of a folded structure, the collar piece is of a lapel and bottom collar connecting structure, and the collar knot is of a one-piece structure; the collar of the garment pieces is used for forming a front collar part, the collar piece is used for forming a rear collar part, and the collar of the garment pieces and the collar piece form a collar of the suit-dress together; wherein, it is specifically
Referring to fig. 1, the drawn garment pieces include points of a back garment upper point a, a back collar lower point c, a back collar transverse point a1, a back neck point b, a back collar curvature point a2, a back collar inclination point a3, a back shoulder point b1, a back transverse back midpoint c1, a back transverse back right point b2, a back arm hole vertical point e, a back arm hole curvature point e1, a back chest point c2, a chest large point e2, a back waist midpoint d, a back waist large point d1, a waist side point f, a hip side point f1, a back garment long point n1, a front garment long point n, a front chest m2, a front width point m1, a front left wide point g1, a front arm hole vertical point g, a front arm hole curvature point g2, a front shoulder width point 1, a front collar lower point m, a front collar tie high point h, a front tie width point j1, a front collar inclination point j, a front neck point j 598, a front neck point m 8653, a front tie point m # 865, a front tie point j, a front tie point m # i, a front tie point m # e, a front tie point m # e, a back point m # e, a front tie point m # e, a back point m # e, a rear tie point m # e, a back point m # e, a front tie point m # e, a back point m #, The front bottom collar left inflection point q2, the front bottom collar right inflection point q3, the front bottom collar left point o2, the front bottom collar right point o3 and the front waist large point d2, wherein a back middle line segment an1 is parallel to the front middle line segment hn and is respectively perpendicular to a bottom line segment n1n, and the line segment an1 is 0.451-160-72.16 cm; line segment hn is 0.464 × 160 is 74.24 cm; segment n1 n-0.553 × 84-46.452 cm; the armhole depth line segment ac2 is 0.273 multiplied by 84 is 22.932 cm; the line segment c2m2 connecting the back chest point c2 and the front chest midpoint m2 is perpendicular to the line segment an 1; the rear transverse back width depth line segment ac1 is 0.175 x 84 is 14.7 cm; a c1 point is used as a vertical line segment c1b2 of the back middle line segment an1, and the line segment c1b2 is 0.201 multiplied by 84 which is 16.884 cm; the depth line segment ac of the back collar is 0.027 multiplied by 84 is 2.268 cm; the lower collar horizontal line segment ca2 is aa1 is 0.041 × 84 is 3.444 cm; the upper horizontal collar line segment ab of the back collar is 0.083 multiplied by 84 is 6.972 cm; the line ab and the line ca2 are respectively perpendicular to the back median line an 1; connecting a point a1a2 by a straight line segment, wherein the line segment a1a3 is an angle bisector of ═ ba1a2, and the line segment a1a3 is 0.033 × 84 is 2.772 cm; connecting the points b, a3 and a2 in sequence by arcs to form a back neck pit structure; rear shoulder angle abb1 is 160 DEG, and the calculation method comprises the following steps: 360-200 degrees, and the shoulder line segment bb1 is 0.145 multiplied by 84 is 12.18 cm; chest line segment c2e2 is 0.273 × 84 is 22.932 cm; connecting points e2 and b2 by straight lines, taking the midpoint e of a line segment e2b2, enabling a line segment ee1 to be perpendicular to the line segment e2b2, and enabling a line segment ee1 to be 0.02 multiplied by 84 to be 1.68 cm; connecting the points b1, b2, e1 and e2 in sequence by arcs to form a rear armhole and fossa structure; the back waist section depth line segment ad is 0.245 multiplied by 160 cm 39.2 cm; the back waist line dd2 is 0.297 × 84 is 24.948 cm; a point e2 is used to draw a vertical line e2f1 downwards to form an intersection point f with a line segment dd2, wherein the line segment e2f is f1f is 0.195 × 84 is 16.38 cm; segment fd1 ═ fd2 ═ 0.023 × 84 ═ 1.932 cm; a straight line segment is sequentially connected with e2, d1, f1, d2 and e2 to form a dart structure; the front chest width height line segment m2m1 is 0.067 multiplied by 84 is 5.628 cm; a vertical line segment m1g1 of the line segment hn is taken as a point m1, and the line segment m1g1 is 0.229 multiplied by 84 is 19.236 cm; connecting points g1 and e2 by straight lines, wherein g is the midpoint of a line segment g1e2, a line segment gg2 is at the position of a perpendicular bisector of the line segment g1e2, and the line segment gg2 is 0.017 multiplied by 84 is 1.428 cm; the front neckline deep line section hm is 0.047 multiplied by 84 is 3.948 cm; a vertical line segment mj1 of the line segment hn is taken as a point m, and the line segment mj1 is 0.202 multiplied by 84 is 16.968 cm; the vertical line segment j1k of the collar is perpendicular to the line segment mj1, and the line segment j1k is 0.048 × 84 is 4.032 cm; the front shoulder < j1kk1 is 45 degrees, and the calculation method comprises the following steps: 360-315 degrees; connecting the points k1, g1, g2 and e2 in sequence by using an arc to form a front sleeve gallery structure; the pleat segment h1m is 0.091 × 84 is 7.644 cm; the collar width line segment h1i3 is 0.054 × 84 is 4.536 cm; the method for calculating the angle of the collar i1i3h1 is equal to angle ih1m is equal to 86 degrees: 360-274 degrees; the neckline elevation line segment i3j is 0.003 multiplied by 84 is 0.252 cm; line ji1 ═ 0.033 × 84 ═ 2.772 cm; segment h1i ═ 0.029 × 84 ═ 2.436 cm; the method for calculating the angle h1ih2 is as follows: 360-194 degrees; line ih2 ═ 0.075 × 84 ═ 6.3 cm; the method for calculating the angle ji1k2 is 175 degrees: 360-185 degrees; the line segment i1k2 is 0.063 × 84 is 5.292 cm; an upper collar head structure which is composed of points k2, q2, o2, o3, q3 and h2 as contour points is symmetrical about a middle axis line segment k2h2 and a lower collar head structure which is composed of points k2, i1, i3, h1, i and h2 as contour points, an anterior collar inclination line segment j1i2 is an angular line of ═ kj1i3, and a line segment j1i2 is 0.031 × 84 ═ 2.604 cm; connecting points k, i2 and j in sequence by using arcs to form a front neck pit structure, namely contour points of the folded garment piece sequentially comprise c, n1, n, h1, i, h2, q3, o3, o2, q2, k2, i1, j, i2, k1, g1, g2, e2, e1, b2, b1, b, a3 and a2, wherein a front middle line section hn is a folding line, and the garment piece is a structure symmetrical about the folding line;
referring to fig. 2, the drawn sleeve patch includes points of a sleeve top point z, a sleeve length point x, a sleeve top point x1, a first sleeve top perpendicular point z1, a first sleeve top curvature point w1, a sleeve top oblique midpoint w, a second sleeve top perpendicular point y1, a second sleeve top curvature point w2, a sleeve fat point z2, a rear sleeve arc meridian point y, an outer cuff point y2 and a cuff large point x 2; wherein, the sleeve middle line zx is 0.25 × 84 is 21 cm; the sleeve-hill depth line zx1 is 0.12 × 84 is 10.08 cm; the sleeve fat line segment x1z2 is perpendicular to the line segment zx, and the line segment x1z 2-xy 2-0.22 × 84-18.48 cm; a straight line connecting point zz2 is used for forming an sleeve mountain oblique line, and an upper mark line segment zz1 is 0.062 multiplied by 84 is 5.208 cm; subscript line segment z2y1 ═ 0.06 × 84 ═ 5.04 cm; a segment z1w1 is perpendicular to the segment zz2, a segment y1w2 is perpendicular to the segment zz2, and a segment z1w1 is 0.02 × 84 is 1.68 cm; the line segment y1w2 is 0.015 × 84 is 1.26 cm; line segment zw is 0.135 × 84 is 11.34 cm; connecting points z, w1, w2 and z2 in sequence by using arcs to form a front sleeve mountain structure, wherein a point y is positioned at the midpoint of a line segment y1w2, and connecting points z, w1, y and z2 in sequence by using arcs to form a rear sleeve mountain structure; the cuff contraction line segment y2x2 is 0.023 x 84 is 1.932 cm; the front sleeve body contour points of the sleeve pieces sequentially comprise z, w1, w2, z2, x2 and x; the rear sleeve body contour points of the sleeve piece sequentially comprise z, w1, y, z2, x2 and x; the front sleeve body outline and the back sleeve body outline are unfolded by a central axis line zx to form a folded sleeve sheet with a one-sheet structure;
referring to fig. 3, the drawn collar comprises points including a collar middle upper middle point s, a collar middle lower point s1, a collar back lower middle point t1, a collar bottom upper middle point v, a collar middle point t, a collar head point r3, a collar break point u, a collar bottom lower point s2, a collar connecting point l, a collar middle point l1, a collar upper bend point r, a collar inner bend point r1 and a collar lower bend point r2, wherein a collar middle line segment ss1 is 0.103 × 84 which is 8.652 cm; the base line segment st of the upturned collar is 0.016 multiplied by 84 which is 5.124 cm; the line segment tu is perpendicular to the line segment ss1, and the line segment tu is 0.061 × 84 is 13.776 cm; the connecting line lu between the lapel and the bottom collar is 1.0 cm; the neck inner curvature index line segment tl1 is 0.076 × 84 is 6.384 cm; after lapel, the inner opening upward bending line section tt1 is 0.013 multiplied by 84 is 1.092 cm; the inner lower mouth elbow segment tv is 0.007 × 84 is 0.588 cm; line segment l1r ═ 0.011 × 84 ═ 0.924 cm; line segment l1r1 is 0.005 × 84 is 0.42 cm; sequentially connecting points l, r and t1 by using an arc to form a lapel lower collar radian, sequentially connecting points l, r1 and v by using an arc to form a bottom collar upper collar radian, drawing a line segment sr3 to be vertical to a line segment ss1, wherein the line segment sr3 is 0.164 multiplied by 84 which is 13.776 cm; a lapel collar structure is formed by straight connecting points r3 and u; the angle lus2 is 99 degrees, and the calculation method comprises the following steps: 360-261 degree; the bottom leading line segment us2 is 0.033 multiplied by 84 is 2.772 cm; the line segment r1r2 is 0.035 × 84 is 2.94 cm; connecting the points s2, r2 and s1 in sequence by arcs to form a bottom collar lower opening radian; namely, the folded contour points of the collar piece sequentially comprise s, t1, r, l, r1, v, s1, r2, s2, u and r3, wherein a line segment sr3 is a folding line, and the collar piece is in a structure symmetrical about the folding line;
referring to fig. 4, the drawn bow tie includes points including a bow tie upper middle point o, a bow tie lower middle point o1, a bow tie left tip point p1, a bow tie left lower oblique point q1, a bow tie lower width point p, and a bow tie lower width outer point q; wherein, the middle line segment oo1 is 0.041 multiplied by 84 is 3.444 cm; the angle o1op1 is 103 degrees, and the calculation method comprises the following steps: 360 degrees to 257 degrees; the line segment o1p is perpendicular to the line segment oo1, and the line segment o1p is 0.017 × 84 is 1.428 cm; copying a left structure of the bow tie which is formed by taking the points o, p1, p and o1 as contour points into a right structure of the bow tie which is formed by taking the points p1, q1, q and p as contour points by taking the line segment p1p as a symmetry axis; namely, the contour points after the bow tie is folded sequentially comprise o, p1, q1, q, p and o1, wherein a bow tie middle line segment oo1 is a folding line, and the bow tie is a structure symmetrical about the folding line;
2) respectively cutting the drawn garment piece, the sleeve piece, the collar piece and the bow tie into wool sample plates, preferably, 3.0 cm folded edges are arranged outside the bottom edges of the garment piece, and 1.0cm sewn ends are arranged at the rest boundary parts of the garment piece; 3.0 cm hems are arranged outside the bottom edges of the sleeve pieces, and 1.0cm sewing heads are arranged at the rest boundary parts of the sleeve pieces; sewing heads are arranged around the collar piece and the bow tie for 1.0cm, and refer to fig. 5-12; then non-woven adhesive interlining is bonded at the collar piece, the collar knot and the collar and collar lap of the garment piece, specifically, an iron and padding cloth are adopted for bonding, and the padding cloth is padded on the adhesive interlining and then pressed by the iron for bonding; cutting the collar to be equal to the collar piece, the collar knot and the collar and collar of the garment piece; the seam is then ironed down. Wherein, when the non-woven adhesive lining cloth is adhered at the collar and the collar folding position of the garment piece, the adhesion parameters are set as follows: the temperature is 148 ℃, the pressure is 188 kpa-294 kpa, and the time is 5 s; when the non-woven adhesive interlining is bonded at the collar sheets and the knot positions, the bonding parameters are set as follows: the temperature is 148 ℃, the pressure is 188 kpa-294 kpa, and the time is 7 s;
3) referring to fig. 8-14, dart tracks on two sides of a garment piece are sewn at the bottom of armholes of the garment piece, a collar piece is in butt joint with a collar head, the garment piece and the bottom edge of the sleeve piece are sewn by a crimping process, front and rear shoulder peaks of the garment piece are sewn, the bottom edge of the collar piece is sewn with a collar opening of the garment piece, the sleeve piece is sewn with the armholes, an invisible zipper is sewn in the back of the garment piece, a pleating part is pinched by a W fold, then a pointed nut is adopted to control the pleating of the collar opening by using a collar tie, specifically, the collar fold is ironed into the collar, a chest dart line segment h1m at the collar opening is 2 times as wide as a line segment h1m after being unfolded, namely, the chest dart is divided into 4 equal parts, the chest dart amount is doubled inwards along the center, then a quarter of the left side and the right side is folded outwards to form a W shape, then the neck tie is clamped and controlled by the collar tie, and the female garment is made.
Preferably, sewing darts on two sides of the garment piece, butt-jointing and sewing a collar piece and a collar head, sewing hemmed edges of the garment piece and sleeve pieces, sewing front and rear shoulders of the garment piece and sewing sleeve pieces and armholes by adopting flat sewing stitches, wherein the sewing parameters are 13 needles/2.5 cm; the bottom edge of the collar piece and the collar of the garment piece are sewn by adopting a collar stitching process, and the sewing parameter is 13 needles/2.5 cm; the invisible zipper is sewn in the back of the garment piece by adopting a partial pressure sewing process, and the sewing parameter is 13 needles/2.5 cm.
In addition, the triangle h1mh at the neckline in fig. 1 is a neckline fold, and after the non-woven adhesive interlining is bonded, the neckline fold is ironed back to the inside, thereby playing a role of supporting the shape of the tie.
Claims (8)
1. A method for manufacturing a female necktie, which is characterized by comprising the following steps:
1) respectively drawing a garment piece, a sleeve piece, a collar piece and a bow tie by adopting a folding method, wherein the garment piece is of an integral structure, and the garment piece is drawn by adopting a front and rear garment piece combined method by taking a front middle line section of the suit-dress as a folding line; the garment piece comprises a collar, shoulders, armholes, waist provinces, a collar arranged at the front collar of the garment piece and a pleat part containing chest provinces, wherein the pleat part comprises a collar used for being scalded into the collar to play a supporting role and a front pleat part positioned at the front collar; the sleeve piece is of a folded structure, the collar piece is of a lapel and bottom collar connecting structure, and the collar knot is of a one-piece structure; the collar of the garment pieces is used for forming a front collar part, the collar piece is used for forming a rear collar part, and the collar of the garment pieces and the collar piece form a collar of the suit-dress together;
2) respectively cutting the drawn garment piece, sleeve piece, collar piece and collar tie into wool sample plates, then bonding non-woven bonding lining cloth at the collar piece, collar tie and collar lap positions of the garment piece, and cutting the non-woven bonding lining cloth into the same size as the collar piece, collar tie and collar lap positions of the garment piece;
3) sewing the dart at the bottom of the armhole of the garment piece, butt-jointing and sewing the collar piece and the collar head, sewing the garment piece and the bottom edge of the sleeve piece by adopting a curling process, sewing the front and back shoulder peaks of the garment piece, sewing the bottom edge of the collar piece and the collar opening of the garment piece, sewing the sleeve piece and the armhole, sewing an invisible zipper in the back of the garment piece, pinching the pleat part to be W-folded, and sewing by adopting a pointed nut in a manner of controlling the pleat of the collar opening by utilizing a collar knot, thereby finishing the manufacture of the necktie-suit for women.
2. The method for making female tie garment according to claim 1, wherein the drawing of the cut pieces in step 1) includes a back upper point a, a back lower point c, a back transverse point a1, a back neck point b, a back socket curvature point a2, a back socket inclination point a3, a back shoulder point b1, a back transverse middle point c1, a back transverse right point b2, a back arm hole vertical point e, a back arm hole curvature point e1, a back chest point c2, a chest large point e2, a back waist middle point d, a back waist large point d1, a waist side point f, a hip side point f1, a back garment length point n1, a front garment length point n, a front middle point m 7378, a front width point m1, a front width left point g1, a front arm hole vertical point g, a front arm hole curvature point g2, a front shoulder width point n, a front neck hole width point m 68629, a front neck hole width point m 4642, a front arm hole width point h2, a front arm hole width point h 4642, a front arm hole inclination point h 8, a front arm hole inclination point h2, a front arm hole inclination point h, The front bottom collar left point i1, the front bottom collar right point i, the front over collar left point k2, the front over collar right point h2, the front bottom collar left inflection point q2, the front bottom collar right inflection point q3, the front bottom collar inside left point o2, the front bottom collar inside right point o3 and the front waist large point d2, wherein a back middle line segment an1 is parallel to a front middle line segment hn and is respectively vertical to a bottom line segment n1n, and a line segment an1 is 0.451 cm; line segment hn is 0.464 cm; a line segment n1n is 0.553 × type cm; the armhole deep line segment ac2 is 0.273 x type cm; the line segment c2m2 connecting the back chest point c2 and the front chest midpoint m2 is perpendicular to the line segment an 1; the rear transverse back width depth line segment ac1 is 0.175 x type cm; c1 point is used as a vertical line segment c1b2 of the back middle line segment an1, and the line segment c1b2 is 0.201 x type cm; the depth line section ac of the back collar is 0.027 multiplied by type cm; the lower collar horizontal line segment ca2 is aa1 is 0.041 multiplied by type cm; the upper horizontal collar line segment ab of the back collar is 0.083 multiplied by type cm; the line ab and the line ca2 are respectively perpendicular to the back median line an 1; connecting a point a1a2 by a straight line segment, wherein the line segment a1a3 is an angle bisector of ═ ba1a2, and the line segment a1a3 is 0.033 × type cm; connecting the points b, a3 and a2 in sequence by arcs to form a back neck pit structure; rear shoulder angle abb1 is 160 degrees, shoulder line segment bb1 is 0.145 multiplied by type cm; chest large line segment c2e2 is 0.273 × type cm; connecting points e2 and b2 by straight lines, taking the midpoint e of a line segment e2b2, enabling a line segment ee1 to be perpendicular to the line segment e2b2, and enabling the line segment ee1 to be 0.02 x cm; connecting the points b1, b2, e1 and e2 in sequence by arcs to form a rear armhole and fossa structure; the back waist section deep line segment ad is 0.245 multiplied by cm; the rear waist line dd2 is 0.297 x type cm; a point e2 is used for drawing a vertical line e2f1 downwards to form an intersection point f with a line segment dd2, wherein the line segment e2f is f1f is 0.195 multiplied by type cm; a line segment fd1 ═ fd2 ═ 0.023 × cm; a straight line segment is sequentially connected with e2, d1, f1, d2 and e2 to form a dart structure; the front chest width height line segment m2m1 is 0.067 multiplied by type cm; a vertical line segment m1g1 of the line segment hn is defined as a point m1, and the line segment m1g1 is 0.229 × type cm; connecting points g1 and e2 by using a straight line, wherein g is the midpoint of a line segment g1e2, a line segment gg2 is at the position of a middle perpendicular line of the line segment g1e2, and the line segment gg2 is 0.017 multiplied by cm; the front neckline deep line section hm is 0.047 multiplied by type cm; a vertical line segment mj1 of the line segment hn is taken as a point m, and the line segment mj1 is 0.202 multiplied by type cm; a collar vertical straight line segment j1k is perpendicular to a line segment mj1, and the line segment j1k is 0.048 multiplied by type cm; the front shoulder angle j1kk1 is 45 degrees; connecting the points k1, g1, g2 and e2 in sequence by using an arc to form a front sleeve gallery structure; the pleat segment h1m is 0.091 × type cm; the collar width line segment h1i3 is 0.054 × type cm; the collar head i1i3h1 is 86 degrees as equal to the angle ih1m, and the collar elevation line segment i3j is 0.003 x cm; line ji1 ═ 0.033 × type cm; line segment h1i ═ 0.029 × type cm; angle h1ih2 is 166 °; line ih2 ═ 0.075 × cm; angle ji1k2 is 175 degrees; the line segment i1k2 is 0.063 × type cm; an upper collar head structure which is composed of points k2, q2, o2, o3, q3 and h2 as contour points is symmetrical about a middle axis line segment k2h2 and a lower collar head structure which is composed of points k2, i1, i3, h1, i and h2 as contour points, an anterior collar pit inclination line segment j1i2 is an angular line of ═ kj1i3, and a line segment j1i2 is 0.031 multiplied by type cm; the front neck fossa structure is formed by connecting points k, i2 and j in sequence by arcs, namely contour points of the folded garment piece sequentially comprise c, n1, n, h1, i, h2, q3, o3, o2, q2, k2, i1, j, i2, k1, g1, g2, e2, e1, b2, b1, b, a3 and a2, wherein a front middle line section hn is a folding line, and the garment piece is a structure symmetrical about the folding line.
3. The method for making a female tie garment as claimed in claim 1, wherein the points included in the step 1) of drawing the sleeve include an sleeve top point z, a sleeve length point x, a sleeve top point x1, a first sleeve top vertical point z1, a first sleeve top curvature point w1, a sleeve top oblique midpoint w, a second sleeve top vertical point y1, a second sleeve top curvature point w2, a sleeve fat point z2, a rear sleeve arc meridian point y, an outer cuff point y2 and a cuff big point x 2; wherein, the middle line zx of the sleeve is 0.25 × type cm; sleeve mountain depth line zx1 is 0.12 × type cm; the sleeve fat line segment x1z2 is vertical to the line segment zx, and the line segment x1z2 is xy2 is 0.22 x cm; a straight line connecting point zz2 is used for forming an sleeve mountain oblique line, and an upper mark line segment zz1 is 0.062 multiplied by type cm; subscript line segment z2y1 ═ 0.06 × type cm; a segment z1w1 is perpendicular to a segment zz2, a segment y1w2 is perpendicular to a segment zz2, and the segment z1w1 is 0.02 × cm; the line segment y1w2 is 0.015 × type cm; the line segment zw is 0.135 × type cm; connecting points z, w1, w2 and z2 in sequence by using arcs to form a front sleeve mountain structure, wherein a point y is positioned at the midpoint of a line segment y1w2, and connecting points z, w1, y and z2 in sequence by using arcs to form a rear sleeve mountain structure; the cuff contraction line segment y2x2 is 0.023 x type cm; the front sleeve body contour points of the sleeve pieces sequentially comprise z, w1, w2, z2, x2 and x; the rear sleeve body contour points of the sleeve piece sequentially comprise z, w1, y, z2, x2 and x; the front sleeve body contour and the back sleeve body contour are unfolded by a central axis line zx to form the folded sleeve sheet with one sheet structure.
4. The method for making female tie garment according to claim 1, wherein the step 1) of drawing the collar piece includes the point of the upper middle point after the collar s, the lower middle point after the collar s1, the lower middle point after the collar t1, the upper middle point after the bottom collar v, the middle point after the collar t, the lapel head point r3, the head break point u, the lower head point s2, the tie point l, the collar piece middle point l1, the upper lapel bend point r, the inner bottom collar bend point r1 and the lower collar bend point r2, wherein the line segment ss1 in the collar is 0.103 x type cm; the base line section st of the upturned collar is 0.016 multiplied by type cm; the line segment tu is perpendicular to the line segment ss1, and the line segment tu is 0.061 × cm; the connecting line lu between the lapel and the bottom collar is 1.0 cm; the neck inner opening curvature index line segment tl1 is 0.076 multiplied by type cm; the inner opening upper bending line section tt1 is 0.013 x type cm after lapel; the inner opening lower bent line section tv is 0.007 × cm; line segment l1r ═ 0.011 × type cm; line segment l1r1 ═ 0.005 × type cm; sequentially connecting points l, r and t1 by using an arc to form a lapel lower collar radian, sequentially connecting points l, r1 and v by using an arc to form a bottom collar upper collar radian, drawing a line segment sr3 to be vertical to a line segment ss1, wherein the line segment sr3 is 0.164 multiplied by type cm; a lapel collar structure is formed by straight connecting points r3 and u; angle lus2 is 99 °; the bottom leader line segment us2 is 0.033 multiplied by type cm; the line segment r1r2 is 0.035 × cm; connecting the points s2, r2 and s1 in sequence by arcs to form a bottom collar lower opening radian; namely, the folded contour points of the collar piece sequentially comprise s, t1, r, l, r1, v, s1, r2, s2, u and r3, wherein a line segment sr3 is a folding line, and the collar piece is in a structure symmetrical about the folding line.
5. The method for making female necktie as set forth in claim 1, wherein the drawing of the bow tie in step 1) includes points including a bow tie upper middle point o, a bow tie lower middle point o1, a bow tie left tip point p1, a bow tie left lower oblique point q1, a bow tie lower wide point p and a bow tie lower wide outer point q; wherein, the middle line segment oo1 of the bow tie is 0.041 multiplied by type cm; angle o1op1 is 103 °; the line segment o1p is perpendicular to the line segment oo1, and the line segment o1p is 0.017 × cm; copying a left structure of the bow tie which is formed by taking the points o, p1, p and o1 as contour points into a right structure of the bow tie which is formed by taking the points p1, q1, q and p as contour points by taking the line segment p1p as a symmetry axis; namely, the contour points after the bow tie is folded sequentially comprise o, p1, q1, q, p and o1, wherein a bow tie middle line segment oo1 is a folding line, and the bow tie is a structure symmetrical about the folding line.
6. The method for making women's wear with a tie as claimed in claim 1, wherein, when the cut pieces, the sleeve pieces, the collar pieces and the bow ties in the step 2) are cut into wool sample plates, 3.0 cm hems are arranged outside the bottom edges of the cut pieces, and 1.0cm sewing heads are arranged at the rest boundary parts of the cut pieces; 3.0 cm hems are arranged outside the bottom edges of the sleeve pieces, and 1.0cm sewing heads are arranged at the rest boundary parts of the sleeve pieces; the peripheries of the collar piece and the bow tie are provided with 1.0cm of sewing heads.
7. A method for making female necktie as set forth in claim 1, wherein the step 2) of bonding the nonwoven adhesive interlining at the neck and neck lap of the garment piece is carried out by setting the bonding parameters as follows: the temperature is 148 ℃, the pressure is 188 kpa-294 kpa, and the time is 5 s; and (3) bonding the non-woven bonding lining cloth at the collar sheets and the collar knots, wherein the bonding parameters are set as follows: the temperature is 148 ℃, the pressure is 188 kpa-294 kpa, and the time is 7 s.
8. The method for making women's wear with tie as claimed in claim 1, wherein in the step 3), sewing the dart at two sides of the clothes piece, butt-jointing the collar piece and the collar head, sewing the bottom edges of the clothes piece and the sleeve piece by a hemming process, sewing the front and back shoulder of the clothes piece and sewing the sleeve piece and the armhole by a flat seam stitch, and the sewing parameters are 13 needles/2.5 cm; the bottom edge of the collar piece and the collar of the garment piece are sewn by adopting a collar stitching process, and the sewing parameter is 13 needles/2.5 cm; the invisible zipper is sewn in the back of the garment piece by adopting a partial pressure sewing process, and the sewing parameter is 13 needles/2.5 cm.
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| CN202111443225.0A CN113907458A (en) | 2021-11-30 | 2021-11-30 | Method for making women's necktie |
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Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN114631661A (en) * | 2022-05-19 | 2022-06-17 | 杭州全尚科技股份有限公司 | Plate making method of one-piece type wave-shaped jacket and full-automatic intelligent clothes cutting device |
| CN114790617A (en) * | 2022-03-25 | 2022-07-26 | 嘉兴慕思寝室用品有限公司 | Pleat cotton type processing method and fabric |
-
2021
- 2021-11-30 CN CN202111443225.0A patent/CN113907458A/en not_active Withdrawn
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN114790617A (en) * | 2022-03-25 | 2022-07-26 | 嘉兴慕思寝室用品有限公司 | Pleat cotton type processing method and fabric |
| CN114631661A (en) * | 2022-05-19 | 2022-06-17 | 杭州全尚科技股份有限公司 | Plate making method of one-piece type wave-shaped jacket and full-automatic intelligent clothes cutting device |
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Application publication date: 20220111 |