CN108950786A - 一种全棉柔亮面料的加工方法 - Google Patents

一种全棉柔亮面料的加工方法 Download PDF

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CN108950786A
CN108950786A CN201811001575.XA CN201811001575A CN108950786A CN 108950786 A CN108950786 A CN 108950786A CN 201811001575 A CN201811001575 A CN 201811001575A CN 108950786 A CN108950786 A CN 108950786A
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yarn
fabric
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cotton
cellulase
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仝晓婷
陈红霞
陆鹏
袁洪兵
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Jiangsu Goldsun Textile Science and Technology Co Ltd
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    • D02J3/00—Modifying the surface
    • D02J3/12—Modifying the surface by removing projecting ends of fibres
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02J—FINISHING OR DRESSING OF FILAMENTS, YARNS, THREADS, CORDS, ROPES OR THE LIKE
    • D02J3/00—Modifying the surface
    • D02J3/18—Treating with particulate, semi-solid, or solid substances, e.g. wax
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    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/10—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
    • D06M13/184—Carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
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    • D06M15/01—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
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    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
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    • D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
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    • D06M2200/20—Treatment influencing the crease behaviour, the wrinkle resistance, the crease recovery or the ironing ease
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    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
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    • D06M2200/40—Reduced friction resistance, lubricant properties; Sizing compositions

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Abstract

本发明公开了一种全棉柔亮面料的加工方法，包括依次进行的以下工序：纺纱→并线合股→纱线烧毛→纱线酶抛光→整经→浆纱→织造→落布→坯布检测→翻布缝头→烧毛→退浆→染色→纤维素酶抛光→轻免烫整理→压光→预缩。本发明在纱线在织造前经过纱线烧毛、酶处理工序有利于后道的整经工序，上浆工序和纬纱上蜡工序利于降低织造产生毛羽，印染后整理的纤维素酶抛光工艺可进一步降低织物的表面毛羽，各工序环环相扣达到降低织物表面毛羽提升布面光泽感的目的。

Description

一种全棉柔亮面料的加工方法
技术领域
本发明属于家用纺织品技术领域，具体涉及一种全棉柔亮面料的加工方法。
背景技术
全棉高支高密面料，由长度长、整齐度高的纤维制成，因此面料的触感细腻、吸湿透气性能好。床品面料中常采用经面缎纹组织工艺，其主要原因是缎纹面料光泽柔亮，手感柔滑，如果纬纱的毛羽较多在织物表面就会显露出来，影响面料的光泽感。全棉高支高密面料，由于经密较大，织造时经纱在上下运动过程中，经纱与经纱间、经纱与纬纱间、经纱与钢筘间的摩擦力大，容易产生毛羽，而布面毛羽降低了面料的光泽感和品质感。高支高密面料织物结构中可活动的空间较少，在使用过程中如若产生折痕，纱线将很难移动恢复原状，这也降低了面料在使用过程中的光泽感。随着人们物质资源的丰富，对产品的品质有了更高的追求，不仅要求床品面料有亲肤、柔软、吸湿透气等舒适性能、也要求布面档次感高，使用易打理。
发明内容
本发明针对现有技术不足，提供一种全棉柔亮面料的加工方法，该面料具有光洁、柔亮的外观，且洗后外观保型性好。
为实现上述有益效果，本发明采用以下技术手段：
一种全棉柔亮面料的加工方法，包括依次进行的以下工序：纺纱→并线合股→纱线烧毛→纱线酶抛光→整经→浆纱→织造→落布→坯布检测→翻布缝头→烧毛→退浆→染色→纤维素酶抛光→轻免烫整理→压光→预缩；
纱线烧毛工序是先对纱线进行烧毛，烧毛火口温度为1000-1100℃，然后络筒，在高温染缸中进行煮练、漂白，其工艺参数为精炼剂8-10g/L、渗透剂4-6g/L、双氧水2-4g/L；
纱线酶抛光工序的具体工艺为：pH值4.0-4.5，纤维素酶0.5-3g/L，温度40-45℃，处理时间45-60min；
浆纱工序是先上浆后上蜡，浆料配方为：淀粉40-45Kg、变性淀粉30-35 Kg、PVA浆料10-25 Kg、丙烯酸25-30 Kg。
优选地，纺纱工序的原料为纤维长度在38-42mm、马克隆值3.7-4.2的新疆长绒棉，纺成120S-200S纱线。
优选地，并线合股工序得到的股线为120S/2-200S/2。
优选地，织造工序采用八枚缎纹组织，在喷气织机中织造而成，穿筘工艺为6筘/入。
优选地，织造工序在送入纬纱时将纬纱经过乳化料装置。
优选地，所述烧毛工序采用二正二反烧毛。
优选地，所述纤维素酶抛光工序的具体工艺为：pH值4.0-4.5，纤维素酶0.5-3g/L，温度40-45℃，处理时间45-60min。
优选地，所述轻免烫整理工序的具体工艺为：LEC免烫树脂10-20g/L、SQ5 2-3g/L、GN-01 6-8g/L、FFS 2-3g/L、PH-S 0.5-2g/L，车速25-40m/min，温度160-170℃，压力1-3kg。
通过以上有效技术手段，本发明实现以下有益效果：
纱线在织造前经过纱线烧毛和酶处理工序有利于后道的整经工序，上浆工序和纬纱上蜡工序利于降低织造产生毛羽，印染后整理的纤维素酶抛光工艺可进一步降低织物的表面毛羽，各工序环环相扣达到降低织物表面毛羽提升布面光泽感的目的。 面料通过轻免烫工艺提升面料的抗皱性能，面料在使用过程中不容易起皱和产生毛羽，从而使面料持久如新。
附图说明
图1为实施例1的织物组织结构图，图2为实施例2的织物组织结构图，其中，纵向的纱线表示经纱，横向的纱线表示纬纱，■表示经组织点，□表示纬组织点。
具体实施方式
本发明提供一种全棉高支高密面料的制造方法。该面料不仅具有柔亮的光泽感，且面料使用过程中不易起皱，洗后外观保型性好。该面料的主要工艺流程为：纺纱→并线合股→纱线烧毛→纱线酶抛光→整经→浆纱→织造→落布→坯布检测→翻布缝头→烧毛→退浆→染色→纤维素酶抛光→轻免烫整理→压光→预缩。具体工艺如下：
所述面料优选纤维长度在38-42mm，马克隆值3.7-4.2的新疆长绒棉，由此棉纤维经过精梳工序，并采用有紧密纺装置的细纱机纺成的120S-200S纱线。
为了提高纱线强力和降低毛羽，所述面料经纬纱均为股线，具体为120S/2-200S/2。
为了降低整经工序中产生毛羽，本发明对纱线进行烧毛和酶抛光的前处理工作。具体采用气体烧毛机，对纱线进行烧毛，烧毛火口温度为1000-1100℃。将烧毛后的纱线络筒，并在高温染缸中进行煮练、漂白，其工艺参数为精炼剂8-10g/L，渗透剂4-6g/L，双氧水2-4g/L。酶抛光的具体工艺为：PH值4.0-4.5，温度40-45℃，纤维素酶0.5-3g/L，处理时间45-60min。
所述上浆工艺采用以淀粉浆料为主，PVA浆料为辅，后上蜡工艺，调浆原则为中浓度、中粘度。浆料配方淀粉40-45Kg，变性淀粉30-35 Kg，PVA浆料10-25 Kg，丙烯酸25-30Kg。最后用乳化蜡对纱线进行上蜡，提高纱线的平滑性。
所述面料采用八枚缎纹组织，具体八枚三飞经面缎纹和八枚五飞经面缎纹组织，在喷气织机中织造而成。其中织造的穿筘工艺为6筘/入。
所述纬纱织造时经过乳化料装置，使纬纱表层附有蜡质，提升纱线光滑度，从而减少织造毛羽。
所述面料采用二正二反烧毛，去除坯布长毛羽，面料经过退浆和染色工序后产生的轻微毛羽，在溢流缸中采用纤维素酶进行抛光，具体工艺为PH值4.0-4.5，温度40-45℃，纤维素酶0.5-3g/L，处理时间45-60min。
面料在柔软定型时采用轻免烫工艺。具体为LEC免烫树脂：10-20g/L；SQ5：2-3g/L；GN-01：6-8g/L；FFS：2-3g/L；PH-S：0.5-2g/L；车速25-40m/min，温度160-170℃，压力1-3kg。
实施例1
所述面料经纬纱均采用120S/2股线，其规格为120S/2*120S/2/230*110，其织物组织为八枚三飞经面缎纹组织。
本发明需要对纱线进行处理。采用气体烧毛机，对纱线进行烧毛，烧毛火口温度为1100℃。纱线在高温染缸中进行煮练、漂白，其工艺参数为精炼剂10g/L，渗透剂6g/L，双氧水4g/L。纱线酶抛光的工艺参数为为：PH值4.5，温度45℃，纤维素酶3g/L，处理时间60min。
上浆工艺的浆料配方淀粉45Kg，变性淀粉35 Kg，PVA浆料25 Kg，丙烯酸30 Kg。最后用乳化蜡对经纱进行上蜡，提高纱线的平滑性。
纬纱织造时经过乳化料装置，使纬纱表层附有蜡质。
本发明后整理的关键工艺为酶抛光和轻免烫工艺。在溢流缸中采用纤维素酶进行抛光，具体工艺为PH值4.5，温度45℃，纤维素酶3g/L，处理时间60min。面料在柔软定型时采用轻免烫工艺。具体为LEC免烫树脂：20g/L；SQ5：3g/L；GN-01：8g/L；FFS：3g/L；PH-S：2g/L；车速40m/min，温度170℃，压力3kg。
实施例2
所述面料经纬纱均采用200S/2股线，其规格为200S/2*200S/2/320*160，其织物组织为八枚五飞经面缎纹组织。
本发明需要对纱线进行处理。采用气体烧毛机，对纱线进行烧毛，烧毛火口温度为1000℃。纱线在高温染缸中进行煮练、漂白，其工艺参数为精炼剂8g/L，渗透剂4g/L，双氧水2g/L。纱线酶抛光的工艺参数为为：PH值4.0，温度40℃，纤维素酶0.5g/L，处理时间45min。
上浆工艺的浆料配方淀粉40Kg，变性淀粉30Kg，PVA浆料10Kg，丙烯酸25Kg。最后用乳化蜡对经纱进行上蜡，提高纱线的平滑性。
纬纱织造时经过乳化料装置，使纬纱表层附有蜡质。
本发明后整理的关键工艺为酶抛光和轻免烫工艺。在溢流缸中采用纤维素酶进行抛光，具体工艺为PH值4.0，温度40℃，纤维素酶0.5g/L，处理时间45min。面料在柔软定型时采用轻免烫工艺。具体为LEC免烫树脂：10g/L；SQ5：2g/L；GN-01：6g/L；FFS：2g/L；PH-S：0.5g/L；车速25m/min，温度160℃，压力1kg。

Claims (8)

1.一种全棉柔亮面料的加工方法，其特征在于：包括依次进行的以下工序：纺纱→并线合股→纱线烧毛→纱线酶抛光→整经→浆纱→织造→落布→坯布检测→翻布缝头→烧毛→退浆→染色→纤维素酶抛光→轻免烫整理→压光→预缩；
纱线烧毛工序是先对纱线进行烧毛，烧毛火口温度为1000-1100℃，然后络筒，在高温染缸中进行煮练、漂白，其工艺参数为精炼剂8-10g/L、渗透剂4-6g/L、双氧水2-4g/L；
纱线酶抛光工序的具体工艺为：pH值4.0-4.5，纤维素酶0.5-3g/L，温度40-45℃，处理时间45-60min；
浆纱工序是先上浆后上蜡，浆料配方为：淀粉40-45Kg、变性淀粉30-35 Kg、PVA浆料10-25 Kg、丙烯酸25-30 Kg。
2.根据权利要求1所述的全棉柔亮面料的加工方法，其特征在于：纺纱工序的原料为纤维长度在38-42mm、马克隆值3.7-4.2的新疆长绒棉，纺成120S-200S纱线。
3.根据权利要求1所述的全棉柔亮面料的加工方法，其特征在于：并线合股工序得到的股线为120S/2-200S/2。
4.根据权利要求1所述的全棉柔亮面料的加工方法，其特征在于：织造工序采用八枚缎纹组织，在喷气织机中织造而成，穿筘工艺为6筘/入。
5.根据权利要求1所述的全棉柔亮面料的加工方法，其特征在于：织造工序在送入纬纱时将纬纱经过乳化料装置。
6.根据权利要求1所述的全棉柔亮面料的加工方法，其特征在于：所述烧毛工序采用二正二反烧毛。
7.根据权利要求1所述的全棉柔亮面料的加工方法，其特征在于：所述纤维素酶抛光工序的具体工艺为：pH值4.0-4.5，纤维素酶0.5-3g/L，温度40-45℃，处理时间45-60min。
8.根据权利要求1所述的全棉柔亮面料的加工方法，其特征在于：所述轻免烫整理工序的具体工艺为：LEC免烫树脂10-20g/L、SQ5 2-3g/L、GN-01 6-8g/L、FFS 2-3g/L、PH-S 0.5-2g/L，车速25-40m/min，温度160-170℃，压力1-3kg。
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