CN111118897A - 一种抗起毛起球面料的制作工艺 - Google Patents

一种抗起毛起球面料的制作工艺 Download PDF

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CN111118897A
CN111118897A CN202010033103.3A CN202010033103A CN111118897A CN 111118897 A CN111118897 A CN 111118897A CN 202010033103 A CN202010033103 A CN 202010033103A CN 111118897 A CN111118897 A CN 111118897A
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刘惠林
张曙光
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Huamao Xiamen Special Material Co ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种抗起毛起球面料的制作工艺，包括如下步骤：S1、坯布织造，选用空包加捻纱材，空包加捻纱材采用免桨工艺并进行上蜡处理，在织布机上织成坯布；S2、坯布一次预定型，将坯布在170～180℃的条件下烘干，将烘烤后的坯布快速冷却到40℃以下；S3、退浆，采用无张力退浆工艺对坯布进行退浆处理；S4、坯布二次预定型，将退浆后的坯布浸渍黄变防止剂，然后在190～200℃条件下完成二次预定型；S5、定型烘干，将坯布浸渍固纱剂后高温烘干；S6、泼水定型，将烘干后的坯布经过轧槽吸收泼水药剂，再经过高温定型，使面料的幅宽达到所需求的幅宽。本发明工艺制得的面料具有良好的拒水性、抗磨损性和抗起毛起球性。

Description

一种抗起毛起球面料的制作工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及纺织面料生产领域，特别涉及一种抗起毛起球面料的制作工艺。
背景技术
户外运动的环境较为特殊，户外运动爱好者需要经常出入丛林等场所，身上的面料容易被荆棘树丛等勾到，导致起毛起球。工装因其特殊的使用环境也容易导致其出现起毛起球的现象，因此此类问题急需解决。
发明内容
针对上述问题，本发明的目的在于提供一种抗起毛起球面料的制作工艺，既能够提高面料的抗起毛起球性能，还能够提高面料的拒水性能和抗磨损性能。
为了实现上述目的，本发明采用的技术方案如下：
一种抗起毛起球面料的制作工艺，包括如下步骤：
S1、坯布织造，选用空包加捻纱材，空包加捻纱材采用免桨工艺并进行上蜡处理，在织布机上织成坯布。上蜡处理可以保护纱材不结丝起球，对面料抗起毛起球有一定帮助。
S2、坯布一次预定型，将坯布在175～185℃的条件下烘干，将烘干后的坯布快速冷却到40℃以下。保持面料的尺寸稳定性，减少坯布幅宽收缩，使幅宽更加稳定。
S3、退浆，采用无张力退浆工艺对步骤S2中得到的坯布进行退浆处理。使张力得到最大程度的释放，面料经向弹性得到很好的回复，保持面料的松弛性，手感好，韧性佳。
S4、坯布二次预定型，将退浆后的坯布浸渍黄变防止剂，然后在190～200℃条件下完成二次预定型。既可以防止氨纶被高温烤焦、保护氨纶不受高温的损坏，有又助于面料的尺寸稳定性。幅宽控制和染色后幅宽一致，有利于稳定沸水缩率和蒸汽熨烫缩率，保持60℃水洗缩率3%以内。
S5、定型烘干，将坯布浸渍固纱剂后高温烘干，手感不板结，不硬脆。
S6、泼水定型，将烘干后的坯布经过轧槽吸收定型剂，再经过高温定型，使面料的幅宽达到所需求的幅宽，所述的定型剂包括以下含量的原料制成：
树脂 3～9g/L
渗透剂 0.5～1g/L
泼水剂 20～100g/L
防裂纱剂 10～60g/L。
进一步地，所述的步骤S4和步骤S5之间还包括步骤S41，将二次预定型完成的坯布进行染色，染色温度为90～95℃。
进一步地，所述步骤S1中，空包加捻纱材的牵伸比为2.8～3.6，加捻捻度为800～1200捻回数/m。
进一步地，所述步骤S3中的无张力退浆工艺为超声波高频率振动退浆工艺，退浆时长8～10min。同药剂接触时间长，退浆精炼效果更佳，不损伤纤维的同时保持良好的退浆效果。
进一步地，所述步骤S4中的黄变防止剂为烷基磺酸盐黄变防止剂，代号72406，用量1-6g/L。
进一步地，所述步骤S5中的固纱剂为有机硅固纱剂，用量为20～40g/L。
进一步地，所述步骤S5中的定型条件为：定型温度155～165℃，超喂3～20%，速度30～60m/min，幅宽52～58〞。
进一步地，所述步骤S6中的定型条件为：定型温度155～165℃，超喂3～20%，速度30～60m/min，幅宽52～58〞。
本发明具有如下有益效果：提供一种抗起毛起球面料的制作工艺，制得的面料具有良好的拒水性、抗磨损性和抗起毛起球性。拒水性可以达到ISO 4920 4级，抗磨损性可以达到ISO 12947-2:2016(12KPA/woven wool fabric) >5万次，抗起毛起球性可以达到GB/T4802.1(起毛1500次 起球1500次) 4级。
具体实施方式
下面结合具体实施方式，对本发明做进一步说明。
实施例一
抗起毛起球面料的制作工艺，包括如下步骤：
第一步、选用尼龙70D空包加捻纱，捻度为800捻回数/m，旭化成氨纶纱，包纱牵伸比为2.8，成品经纬密：145*120。对氨纶纱采用免桨工艺并进行上蜡处理，在剑杆织布机上织成坯布。
第二步、将坯布在175℃的条件下烘干，将烘干后的坯布快速冷却到40℃以下，完成一次预定型。
第三步、采用超声波高频率振动退浆工艺对坯布进行退浆处理，退浆时长8min。
第四步、将退浆后的坯布浸渍黄变防止剂，然后在190℃条件下完成二次预定型，黄变防止剂为烷基磺酸盐黄变防止剂，代号72406， 用量1-6%。
第五步、将二次预定型完成的坯布进行染色，染色温度为90℃
第五步、将坯布浸渍固纱剂后高温烘干烘干。固纱剂为有机硅固纱剂，用量为20g/L，定型条件为：定型温度155℃，超喂3%，速度30m/min，幅宽52〞。
第六步、将烘干后的坯布经过轧槽吸收泼水药剂，再经过高温定型，定型条件为：定型温度155℃，超喂3%，速度30m/min，幅宽52〞。泼水药剂包括树脂和泼水剂，所述树脂的用量为3g/L，泼水剂包括以下含量的原料制成：
G01AY 0.5g/L
L75QG 20g/L
V17CS 10g/L。
将实施例一所制得的坯布进行物理测试，拒水性可以达到ISO 4920 4级，抗磨损性可以达到ISO 12947-2:2016(12KPA/woven wool fabric) >5万次，抗起毛起球性可以达到GB/T 4802.1(起毛1500次 起球1500次) 4级。
实施例二
第一步、选用尼龙70D空包加捻纱，捻度为900捻回数/m，旭化成氨纶纱，包纱牵伸比为3.2，成品经纬密：145*120。对氨纶纱采用免桨工艺并进行上蜡处理，在剑杆织布机上织成坯布。
第二步、将坯布在180℃的条件下烘干，将烘干后的坯布快速冷却到40℃以下，完成一次预定型。
第三步、采用超声波高频率振动退浆工艺对坯布进行退浆处理，退浆时长9min。
第四步、将退浆后的坯布浸渍黄变防止剂，然后在195℃条件下完成二次预定型，黄变防止剂为烷基磺酸盐黄变防止剂，代号72406， 用量1-6%。
第五步、将二次预定型完成的坯布进行染色，染色温度为95℃
第五步、将坯布浸渍固纱剂后高温烘干烘干。固纱剂为有机硅固纱剂，用量为30g/L，定型条件为：定型温度160℃，超喂15%，速度40m/min，幅宽54〞。
第六步、将烘干后的坯布经过轧槽吸收泼水药剂，再经过高温定型，定型条件为：定型温度160℃，超喂15%，速度40m/min，幅宽54〞。泼水药剂包括树脂和泼水剂，所述树脂的用量为6g/L，泼水剂包括以下含量的原料制成：
G01AY 1g/L
L75QG 40g/L
V17CS 20g/L。
将实施例二所制得的坯布进行物理测试，拒水性可以达到ISO 4920 4级，抗磨损性可以达到ISO 12947-2:2016(12KPA/woven wool fabric) >5万次，抗起毛起球性可以达到GB/T 4802.1(起毛1500次 起球1500次) 4级。
实施例三
第一步、选用尼龙70D空包加捻纱，捻度为1200捻回数/m，旭化成氨纶纱，包纱牵伸比为3.6，成品经纬密：145*120。对氨纶纱采用免桨工艺并进行上蜡处理，在剑杆织布机上织成坯布。
第二步、将坯布在185℃的条件下烘干，将烘干后的坯布快速冷却到40℃以下，完成一次预定型。
第三步、采用超声波高频率振动退浆工艺对坯布进行退浆处理，退浆时长10min。
第四步、将退浆后的坯布浸渍黄变防止剂，然后在200℃条件下完成二次预定型，黄变防止剂为烷基磺酸盐黄变防止剂，代号72406， 用量1-6%。
第五步、将二次预定型完成的坯布进行染色，染色温度为95℃
第五步、将坯布浸渍固纱剂后高温烘干烘干。固纱剂为有机硅固纱剂，用量为40g/L，定型条件为：定型温度165℃，超喂20%，速度60m/min，幅宽58〞。
第六步、将烘干后的坯布经过轧槽吸收泼水药剂，再经过高温定型，定型条件为：定型温度165℃，超喂20%，速度60m/min，幅宽58〞。泼水药剂包括树脂和泼水剂，所述树脂的用量为9g/L，泼水剂包括以下含量的原料制成：
G01AY 1g/L
L75QG 100g/L
V17CS 60g/L。
将实施例三所制得的坯布进行物理测试，拒水性可以达到ISO 4920 4级，抗磨损性可以达到ISO 12947-2:2016(12KPA/woven wool fabric) >5万次，抗起毛起球性可以达到GB/T 4802.1(起毛1500次 起球1500次) 4级。
尽管结合优选实施方案具体展示和介绍了本发明，但所属领域的技术人员应该明白，在不脱离所附权利要求书所限定的本发明的精神和范围内，在形式上和细节上对本发明做出各种变化，均为本发明的保护范围。

Claims (8)

1.一种抗起毛起球面料的制作工艺，其特征在于，包括如下步骤：
S1、坯布织造，选用空包加捻纱材，空包加捻纱材采用免桨工艺并进行上蜡处理，在织布机上织成坯布；
S2、坯布一次预定型，将坯布在175～185℃的条件下烘干，将烘干后的坯布快速冷却到40℃以下；
S3、退浆，采用无张力退浆工艺对步骤S2中得到的坯布进行退浆处理；
S4、坯布二次预定型，将退浆后的坯布浸渍黄变防止剂，然后在190～200℃条件下完成二次预定型；
S5、定型烘干，将坯布浸渍固纱剂后高温烘干；
S6、泼水定型，将烘干后的坯布经过轧槽吸收定型剂，再经过高温定型，使面料的幅宽达到所需求的幅宽，所述的定型剂包括以下含量的原料制成：
树脂 3～9g/L
渗透剂 0.5～1g/L
泼水剂 20～100g/L
防裂纱剂 10～60g/L。
2.如权利要求1所述的一种抗起毛起球面料的制作工艺，其特征在于：所述的步骤S4和步骤S5之间还包括步骤S41，将二次预定型完成的坯布进行染色，染色温度为90～95℃。
3.如权利要求1所述的一种抗起毛起球面料的制作工艺，其特征在于：所述步骤S1中，空包加捻纱材的牵伸比为2.8～3.6，加捻捻度为800～1200捻回数/m。
4.如权利要求1所述的一种抗起毛起球面料的制作工艺，其特征在于：所述步骤S3中的无张力退浆工艺为超声波高频率振动退浆工艺，退浆时长8～10min。
5.如权利要求1所述的一种抗起毛起球面料的制作工艺，其特征在于：所述步骤S4中的黄变防止剂为烷基磺酸盐黄变防止剂，用量为1～6g/L。
6.如权利要求1所述的一种抗起毛起球面料的制作工艺，其特征在于：所述步骤S5中的固纱剂为有机硅固纱剂，用量为20～40g/L。
7.如权利要求1所述的一种抗起毛起球面料的制作工艺，其特征在于：所述步骤S5中的定型条件为：定型温度155～165℃，超喂3～20%，速度30～60m/min，幅宽52～58〞。
8.如权利要求1所述的一种抗起毛起球面料的制作工艺，其特征在于：所述步骤S6中的定型条件为：定型温度155～165℃，超喂3～20%，速度30～60m/min，幅宽52～58〞。
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