CN108385400B - 一种抗皱免烫型西服面料 - Google Patents
一种抗皱免烫型西服面料 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种抗皱免烫型西服面料,由表层、里层组成,表层与里层之间均采用粘合连接;其中,所述的表层为经过抗皱处理的桑蚕丝混纺面料,所述的里层为胶粘/XLA纤维面料,所述的粘合剂为增强聚氨酯粘合剂,本发明的面料具有很好的抗皱、抑菌等效果,综合品质高。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及一种抗皱免烫型西服面料,属于西服面料技术领域。
背景技术
随着人们的生活水平不断提高,对服饰的要求也越来越高,面料用来制作服装的材料,作为服装三要素之一,面料不仅可以诠释服装的风格和特性,而且直接左右着服装的色彩、造型的表现效果。通过对目前市场上常用的西服面料以及国内外品牌男装西服面料的研究发现,国内外高档西服面料不再局限于羊毛或羊绒等高档材质,此外,棉、麻和丝质材料在西服上也得到广泛应用。
如今,国内生产这种休闲化的正装西服企业开始展露。据服装市场销售态势点评,休闲化风格的西服在销售比重上明显上升,据专家分析,这种趋势会进一步加强。棉纤维具有优良的服用性能,是理想的服装和家纺面料,但棉纤维弹性较差,织物水洗后容易起皱,很难满足现代人追求健康、舒适、方便、快捷生活的多方面需求。为了改善棉织物的洗可穿性能,免烫防皱整理技术已成为棉纺织品染整工艺中不可或缺的整理方式。
中国专利CN201611115221.9 公开了一种羊毛混纺防皱抗菌西服面料,面料采用超细涤纶纤维和苎麻纤维和羊毛一起混纺,不但面料具备涤纶的悬垂感,而且还有麻面料的良好手感,提升面料档次;该发明采用真空酶处理和聚氨酯定型结合方式使得面料防皱,存在真空酶处理过程复杂、处理成本高、对设备要求较高的缺点。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于针对现有技术的缺陷和不足,提供一种抗皱免烫型西服面料。
为实现上述目的,本发明采用以下技术方案:
一种抗皱免烫型西服面料,其特征在于,由表层、里层组成,表层与里层之间均采用粘合连接;其中,所述的表层为经过抗皱处理的桑蚕丝混纺面料,所述的里层为胶粘/XLA纤维面料,所述的粘合剂为增强聚氨酯粘合剂。
所述的经过抗皱处理的桑蚕丝混纺面料,由以下方法制备:
(1)在氩等离子体气体压强为80-100Pa、辉光放电功率为20-25W条件下,对桑蚕丝纤维进行低压等离子处理,处理时间4-5min,得等离子处理的桑蚕丝纤维;
(2)将质量比为6:4-7:3的腈纶纤维、等离子处理的桑蚕丝纤维混和纺丝,然后经过整经、穿综、织布后,放入抗皱液中浸轧处理3-5min,取出后55-65℃干燥,最后采用染色剂进行染色后在60-75℃干燥,得到经过抗皱处理的桑蚕丝混纺面料。
所述的粘胶纤维/XLA纤维面料的制备工艺为:首先以XLA纤维为芯纱、以粘胶纤维为外包纺成包芯纱,然后经过整经、穿综、织布后,即得粘胶纤维/XLA纤维面料。
所述的增强聚氨酯粘合剂是由下述重量份的原料组成的:
异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯60-70、聚碳酸酯二醇100-120、扩链剂一缩二乙二醇3-5、钛酸四丁酯10-15、碳酸二甲酯0.8-2、三乙醇胺6-8、硬脂酸10-12、达玛树脂1-2、催化剂0.01-0.014;
制备方法,包括以下步骤:
(1)取达玛树脂加热软化,加入到其重量10-16倍的乙醇中,在60-65℃下保温搅拌10-20分钟,得树脂醇溶液;
(2)取钛酸四丁酯,加入到上述树脂醇溶液中,搅拌均匀,加入混合料重量10-13倍的水,搅拌3-4小时,抽滤,将滤饼水洗,常温干燥,得树脂溶胶;
(3)将硬脂酸加热熔化,与树脂溶胶、三乙醇胺混合,搅拌均匀,高温度为180-185℃,加入催化剂,搅拌反应6-7小时,冷却至常温,得溶胶酯胺;
(4)取溶胶酯胺、异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯、聚碳酸酯二醇混合,送入到反应釜中,通入氮气,调节反应釜温度为75-80℃,保温搅拌2-3小时,加入扩链剂一缩二乙二醇,降低反应釜温度为55-60℃,保温反应4-5小时,出料冷却,得溶胶酯胺改性聚氨酯;
(5)取溶胶酯胺改性聚氨酯,与碳酸二甲酯混合,送入到反应釜中,通入氮气,调节反应釜温度为70-76℃,反应40-46小时,出料冷却,即得所述增强聚氨酯粘合剂。
所述的抗皱液,以质量份数计,其制备方法如下:
将8-18份尿素、0.01-0.05份阳离子表面活性剂、40-50份水加入至反应器中,溶解均匀,然后向其中加入2-5份低含氢硅油,800-1200r/min高速分散乳化均匀后,加热至50-70℃反应1-2h,得改性尿素溶液;调节pH为5-6、温度40-60℃,向20-25份40%乙二醛水溶液中逐滴滴加一半的改性尿素溶液,0.5-1h滴加完毕后调节pH为4-5,再逐滴滴加另一半改性尿素溶液0.5-1h滴加完毕,最后调节体系pH为4-5,即得到抗皱液。
所述的桑蚕丝纤维、腈纶纤维从市场上购得,其中桑蚕丝纤维的长度为6-12cm、密度为1.30-1.45g/cm3、断裂强度4.0(克力/旦),腈纶纤维的粗细为1.5D-2.0D、长度为35-45mm。
所述的XLA纤维、粘胶纤维的质量比为4:6-5:5;所述的XLA纤维为陶氏化学公司产品;所述的粘胶纤维从市场上购得,粗细为1.8D-2.2D、长度为35-45mm。
所述的阳离子表面活性剂为十二烷基三甲基氯化铵、十二烷基三甲基溴化铵、十八烷基三甲基氯化铵、十八烷基三甲基溴化铵中的至少一种;所述的低含氢硅油的粘度为15-25mm2/s,活性氢质量百分含量为0.1-0.3%。
所述抗皱免烫型西服面料制备步骤如下:
(1)制备经过抗皱处理的桑蚕丝混纺面料;
(2)制备粘胶纤维/XLA纤维面料,并在粘胶纤维/XLA纤维面料涂布增强聚氨酯粘合剂;
(3) 使用压烫机将表层面料与里层面料熔融粘合,经过后整理后得所述抗皱免烫型西服面料。
本发明的优点:
相对于现有技术,本发明具有以下优点:(1)制备了有机硅改性的尿素-乙二醛树脂防皱液,该防皱液在中的醛基能够与桑蚕丝纤维和经纶纤维中的活性基团反应提高其抗皱效果;同时,由于采用低含氢硅油改性,抗皱液处理后,所述的经过抗皱处理的桑蚕丝混纺面料的质感更好、手感得到提高;(2)桑蚕丝纤维经过低压等离子处理,水洗后收缩率极低,通过与强度高的腈纶纤维混纺,所述的经过抗皱处理的桑蚕丝混纺面料耐磨度、拉伸强度高,水洗收缩率低;(3)所述的粘胶纤维/XLA纤维面料以XLA纤维为芯纱、以粘胶纤维为外包纺成包芯纱,粘胶纤维的透气性、抗静电效果好,XLA纤维具有较高的弹性,所述的西服面料里层在水洗后具有抗皱性好、透气性好;(4)本发明制备的增强聚氨酯粘合剂:其首先以钛酸四丁酯为前驱体,在水解过程中加入达玛树脂的醇溶液,得到具有一定黏度的树脂溶胶,之后参与到三乙醇胺与硬脂酸的反应中,得溶胶酯胺,之后再将该得溶胶酯胺参与到聚酰胺的聚合反应中,将得到的溶胶酯胺改性聚氨酯与碳酸二甲酯共混,通过酯胺与碳酸二甲酯的季铵化反应,不仅实现了二氧化钛溶胶在聚氨酯间的分散相容性,提高了聚氨酯粘结剂的稳定性强度,而且二氧化钛还具有很好的光催化效果,通过得到的季铵化产物还具有很好的柔软、抗静电、抗黄变性能,其与二氧化钛能够起到协同抑菌的效果,从而进一步提高成品面料的综合品质。
具体实施方式
实施例1
一种抗皱液A,以质量份数计,其制备方法如下:
将8份尿素、0.01份十二烷基三甲基溴化铵、40份水加入至反应器中,溶解均匀,然后向其中加入2份低含氢硅油(粘度为20mm2/s,活性氢质量百分含量为0.2%), 1200r/min高速分散乳化均匀后,加热至70℃反应1h,得改性尿素溶液;调节pH为5-6、温度60℃,向20份40%乙二醛水溶液中逐滴滴加一半的改性尿素溶液,0.5h滴加完毕后调节pH为4-5,再逐滴滴加另一半改性尿素溶液0.5h滴加完毕,最后调节体系pH为4-5,即得到抗皱液A。
实施例2
一种抗皱液B,以质量份数计,其制备方法如下:
将18份尿素、0.05份十八烷基三甲基溴化铵、50份水加入至反应器中,溶解均匀,然后向其中加入5份低含氢硅油(粘度为15mm2/s,活性氢质量百分含量为0.1%),800r/min高速分散乳化均匀后,加热至50℃反应2h,得改性尿素溶液;调节pH为5-6、温度40℃,向25份40%乙二醛水溶液中逐滴滴加一半的改性尿素溶液,1h滴加完毕后调节pH为4-5,再逐滴滴加另一半改性尿素溶液1h滴加完毕,最后调节体系pH为4-5,即得到抗皱液B。
实施例3
一种抗皱液C,以质量份数计,其制备方法如下:
将11份尿素、0.02份十二烷基三甲基氯化铵、46份水加入至反应器中,溶解均匀,然后向其中加入4份低含氢硅油(粘度为25mm2/s,活性氢质量百分含量为0.3%),900r/min高速分散乳化均匀后,加热至60℃反应1.5h,得改性尿素溶液;调节pH为5-6、温度54℃,向22份40%乙二醛水溶液中逐滴滴加一半的改性尿素溶液,0.8h滴加完毕后调节pH为4-5,再逐滴滴加另一半改性尿素溶液0.8h滴加完毕,最后调节体系pH为4-5,即得到抗皱液。
实施例4
一种抗皱免烫型西服面料制备步骤如下:
(1)制备经过抗皱处理的桑蚕丝混纺面料:在氩等离子体气体压强为85Pa、辉光放电功率为25W条件下,对桑蚕丝纤维(长度为12cm、密度为1.30g/cm3、断裂强度4.0(克力/旦))进行低压等离子处理,处理时间5min,得等离子处理的桑蚕丝纤维;将质量比为6:4的腈纶纤维(粗细为1.5D、长度为35mm)、等离子处理的桑蚕丝纤维混和纺丝,然后经过整经、穿综、织布后,放入抗皱液中浸轧处理3min,取出后65℃干燥,最后采用染色剂进行染色后在60℃干燥,得到经过抗皱处理的桑蚕丝混纺面料。
(2)制备粘胶纤维/XLA纤维面料,并在粘胶纤维/XLA纤维面料涂布增强聚氨酯粘合剂粘合剂:首先以XLA纤维为芯纱、以粘胶纤维为外包纺成包芯纱(XLA纤维、粘胶纤维的质量比为5:5,粘胶纤维粗细为2.2D、长度为45mm),然后经过整经、穿综、织布后,即得粘胶纤维/XLA纤维面料。
(3) 使用压烫机将表层面料与里层面料熔融粘合,经过后整理后得所述抗皱免烫型西服面料。
所述的增强聚氨酯粘合剂是由下述重量份的原料组成的:
异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯66、聚碳酸酯二醇113、扩链剂一缩二乙二醇4、钛酸四丁酯13、碳酸二甲酯0.9、三乙醇胺7、硬脂酸11、达玛树脂1、催化剂0.012;
制备方法,包括以下步骤:
(1)取达玛树脂加热软化,加入到其重量10倍的乙醇中,在60℃下保温搅拌17分钟,得树脂醇溶液;
(2)取钛酸四丁酯,加入到上述树脂醇溶液中,搅拌均匀,加入混合料重量10倍的水,搅拌3小时,抽滤,将滤饼水洗,常温干燥,得树脂溶胶;
(3)将硬脂酸加热熔化,与树脂溶胶、三乙醇胺混合,搅拌均匀,高温度为183℃,加入催化剂,搅拌反应6小时,冷却至常温,得溶胶酯胺;
(4)取溶胶酯胺、异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯、聚碳酸酯二醇混合,送入到反应釜中,通入氮气,调节反应釜温度为76℃,保温搅拌2小时,加入扩链剂一缩二乙二醇,降低反应釜温度为57℃,保温反应4小时,出料冷却,得溶胶酯胺改性聚氨酯;
(5)取溶胶酯胺改性聚氨酯,与碳酸二甲酯混合,送入到反应釜中,通入氮气,调节反应釜温度为72℃,反应43小时,出料冷却,即得所述增强聚氨酯粘合剂。
实施例5
一种抗皱免烫型西服面料制备步骤如下:
(1)制备经过抗皱处理的桑蚕丝混纺面料:在氩等离子体气体压强为100Pa、辉光放电功率为20W条件下,对桑蚕丝纤维(长度为6cm、密度为1.33g/cm3、断裂强度4.0(克力/旦))进行低压等离子处理,处理时间5min,得等离子处理的桑蚕丝纤维;将质量比为7:3的腈纶纤维(粗细为2.0D、长度为38mm)、等离子处理的桑蚕丝纤维混和纺丝,然后经过整经、穿综、织布后,放入抗皱液中浸轧处理5min,取出后65℃干燥,最后采用染色剂进行染色后在75℃干燥,得到经过抗皱处理的桑蚕丝混纺面料。
(2)制备粘胶纤维/XLA纤维面料,并在粘胶纤维/XLA纤维面料涂布增强聚氨酯粘合剂粘合剂:首先以XLA纤维为芯纱、以粘胶纤维为外包纺成包芯纱(XLA纤维、粘胶纤维的质量比为4:6,粘胶纤维粗细为1.8D、长度为35mm),然后经过整经、穿综、织布后,即得粘胶纤维/XLA纤维面料。
(3) 使用压烫机将表层面料与里层面料熔融粘合,经过后整理后得所述抗皱免烫型西服面料。
所述的增强聚氨酯粘合剂是由下述重量份的原料组成的:
异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯70、聚碳酸酯二醇120、扩链剂一缩二乙二醇5、钛酸四丁酯15、碳酸二甲酯2、三乙醇胺8、硬脂酸12、达玛树脂2、催化剂0.014;
制备方法,包括以下步骤:
(1)取达玛树脂加热软化,加入到其重量10-16倍的乙醇中,在65℃下保温搅拌20分钟,得树脂醇溶液;
(2)取钛酸四丁酯,加入到上述树脂醇溶液中,搅拌均匀,加入混合料重量13倍的水,搅拌4小时,抽滤,将滤饼水洗,常温干燥,得树脂溶胶;
(3)将硬脂酸加热熔化,与树脂溶胶、三乙醇胺混合,搅拌均匀,高温度为185℃,加入催化剂,搅拌反应7小时,冷却至常温,得溶胶酯胺;
(4)取溶胶酯胺、异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯、聚碳酸酯二醇混合,送入到反应釜中,通入氮气,调节反应釜温度为80℃,保温搅拌3小时,加入扩链剂一缩二乙二醇,降低反应釜温度为60℃,保温反应5小时,出料冷却,得溶胶酯胺改性聚氨酯;
(5)取溶胶酯胺改性聚氨酯,与碳酸二甲酯混合,送入到反应釜中,通入氮气,调节反应釜温度为76℃,反应46小时,出料冷却,即得所述增强聚氨酯粘合剂。
实施例6
一种抗皱免烫型西服面料制备步骤如下:
(1)制备经过抗皱处理的桑蚕丝混纺面料:在氩等离子体气体压强为80Pa、辉光放电功率为22W条件下,对桑蚕丝纤维(长度为8cm、密度为1.45g/cm3、断裂强度4.0(克力/旦))进行低压等离子处理,处理时间4.5min,得等离子处理的桑蚕丝纤维;将质量比为6-7的腈纶纤维(粗细为1.8D、长度为35-45mm)、等离子处理的桑蚕丝纤维混和纺丝,然后经过整经、穿综、织布后,放入抗皱液中浸轧处理3min,取出后58℃干燥,最后采用染色剂进行染色后在70℃干燥,得到经过抗皱处理的桑蚕丝混纺面料。
(2)制备粘胶纤维/XLA纤维面料,并在粘胶纤维/XLA纤维面料涂布增强聚氨酯粘合剂粘合剂:首先以XLA纤维为芯纱、以粘胶纤维为外包纺成包芯纱(XLA纤维、粘胶纤维的质量比为4:6-5:6,粘胶纤维粗细为2.0D、长度为39mm),然后经过整经、穿综、织布后,即得粘胶纤维/XLA纤维面料。
(3) 使用压烫机将表层面料与里层面料熔融粘合,经过后整理后得所述抗皱免烫型西服面料。
所述的增强聚氨酯粘合剂是由下述重量份的原料组成的:
异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯60、聚碳酸酯二醇100、扩链剂一缩二乙二醇3、钛酸四丁酯10、碳酸二甲酯0.8、三乙醇胺6、硬脂酸10、达玛树脂1、催化剂0.01;
制备方法,包括以下步骤:
(1)取达玛树脂加热软化,加入到其重量10倍的乙醇中,在60℃下保温搅拌10分钟,得树脂醇溶液;
(2)取钛酸四丁酯,加入到上述树脂醇溶液中,搅拌均匀,加入混合料重量10倍的水,搅拌3小时,抽滤,将滤饼水洗,常温干燥,得树脂溶胶;
(3)将硬脂酸加热熔化,与树脂溶胶、三乙醇胺混合,搅拌均匀,高温度为180℃,加入催化剂,搅拌反应6小时,冷却至常温,得溶胶酯胺;
(4)取溶胶酯胺、异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯、聚碳酸酯二醇混合,送入到反应釜中,通入氮气,调节反应釜温度为75℃,保温搅拌2-3小时,加入扩链剂一缩二乙二醇,降低反应釜温度为55℃,保温反应4小时,出料冷却,得溶胶酯胺改性聚氨酯;
(5)取溶胶酯胺改性聚氨酯,与碳酸二甲酯混合,送入到反应釜中,通入氮气,调节反应釜温度为70℃,反应40小时,出料冷却,即得所述增强聚氨酯粘合剂。
按照相关标准对实施例4-6进行检查,检测数据如下表。
按照GB/T20944.3-2008《纺织品抗菌性能的评价》对实施例4-6进行检查,测试方法GB/T20944.3-2008《纺织品抗菌性能的评价第三部分:震荡法》;灭菌方法:高压蒸汽灭菌;震荡液0.03mol/L磷酸缓冲液;接触温度24±1℃;接触时间18h;测试菌种:大肠杆菌、金黄色葡萄球菌,菌种初始浓度2.5×104CFU/mL;检测数据如下表1。
表1:
实施例4 | 实施例5 | 实施例6 | |
对大肠杆菌抗菌率 | 99.9% | 99.9% | 99.8% |
对金黄色葡萄球菌 | 99.7% | 99.3% | 99.5% |
Claims (6)
1.一种抗皱免烫型西服面料,其特征在于,由表层、里层组成,表层与里层之间均采用粘合剂连接;其中,所述的表层为经过抗皱处理的桑蚕丝混纺面料,所述的里层为粘胶纤维/XLA纤维面料,所述的粘合剂为增强聚氨酯粘合剂;
所述的经过抗皱处理的桑蚕丝混纺面料,由以下方法制备:
(1)在氩等离子体气体压强为80-100Pa、辉光放电功率为20-25W条件下,对桑蚕丝纤维进行低压等离子处理,处理时间4-5min,得等离子处理的桑蚕丝纤维;
(2)将质量比为6:4-7:3的腈纶纤维、等离子处理的桑蚕丝纤维混和纺丝,然后经过整经、穿综、织布后,放入抗皱液中浸轧处理3-5min,取出后55-65℃干燥,最后采用染色剂进行染色后在60-75℃干燥,得到经过抗皱处理的桑蚕丝混纺面料;
所述的增强聚氨酯粘合剂是由下述重量份的原料组成的:
异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯60-70、聚碳酸酯二醇100-120、扩链剂一缩二乙二醇3-5、钛酸四丁酯10-15、碳酸二甲酯0.8-2、三乙醇胺6-8、硬脂酸10-12、达玛树脂1-2、催化剂0.01-0.014;
制备方法,包括以下步骤:
(1)取达玛树脂加热软化,加入到其重量10-16倍的乙醇中,在60-65℃下保温搅拌10-20分钟,得树脂醇溶液;
(2)取钛酸四丁酯,加入到上述树脂醇溶液中,搅拌均匀,加入混合料重量10-13倍的水,搅拌3-4小时,抽滤,将滤饼水洗,常温干燥,得树脂溶胶;
(3)将硬脂酸加热熔化,与树脂溶胶、三乙醇胺混合,搅拌均匀,高温度为180-185℃,加入催化剂,搅拌反应6-7小时,冷却至常温,得溶胶酯胺;
(4)取溶胶酯胺、异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯、聚碳酸酯二醇混合,送入到反应釜中,通入氮气,调节反应釜温度为75-80℃,保温搅拌2-3小时,加入扩链剂一缩二乙二醇,降低反应釜温度为55-60℃,保温反应4-5小时,出料冷却,得溶胶酯胺改性聚氨酯;
(5)取溶胶酯胺改性聚氨酯,与碳酸二甲酯混合,送入到反应釜中,通入氮气,调节反应釜温度为70-76℃,反应40-46小时,出料冷却,即得所述增强聚氨酯粘合剂;
所述的抗皱液,以质量份数计,其制备方法如下:
将8-18份尿素、0.01-0.05份阳离子表面活性剂、40-50份水加入至反应器中,溶解均匀,然后向其中加入2-5份低含氢硅油,800-1200r/min高速分散乳化均匀后,加热至50-70℃反应1-2h,得改性尿素溶液;调节pH为5-6、温度40-60℃,向20-25份40%乙二醛水溶液中逐滴滴加一半的改性尿素溶液,0.5-1h滴加完毕后调节pH为4-5,再逐滴滴加另一半改性尿素溶液0.5-1h滴加完毕,最后调节体系pH为4-5,即得到抗皱液。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种抗皱免烫型西服面料,其特征在于,所述的粘胶纤维/XLA纤维面料的制备工艺为:首先以XLA纤维为芯纱、以粘胶纤维为外包纺成包芯纱,然后经过整经、穿综、织布后,即得粘胶纤维/XLA纤维面料。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种抗皱免烫型西服面料,其特征在于,所述的桑蚕丝纤维、腈纶纤维从市场上购得,其中桑蚕丝纤维的长度为6-12cm、密度为1.30-1.45g/cm3、断裂强度4.0克力/旦,腈纶纤维的粗细为1.5D-2.0D、长度为35-45mm。
4.根据权利要求2所述的一种抗皱免烫型西服面料,其特征在于,所述的XLA纤维、粘胶纤维的质量比为4:6-5:5;所述的XLA纤维为陶氏化学公司产品;所述的粘胶纤维从市场上购得,粗细为1.8D-2.2D、长度为35-45mm。
5.根据权利要求1所述的一种抗皱免烫型西服面料,其特征在于,所述的阳离子表面活性剂为十二烷基三甲基氯化铵、十二烷基三甲基溴化铵、十八烷基三甲基氯化铵、十八烷基三甲基溴化铵中的至少一种;所述的低含氢硅油的粘度为15-25mm2/s,活性氢质量百分含量为0.1-0.3%。
6.根据权利要求1所述的一种抗皱免烫型西服面料,其特征在于,所述抗皱免烫型西服面料制备步骤如下:
(1)制备经过抗皱处理的桑蚕丝混纺面料;
(2)制备粘胶纤维/XLA纤维面料,并在粘胶纤维/XLA纤维面料涂布增强聚氨酯粘合剂;
(3) 使用压烫机将表层面料与里层面料熔融粘合,经过后整理后得所述抗皱免烫型西服面料。
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