CN106521781A - 抽条风格的混纺高弹环保面料的生产工艺 - Google Patents

抽条风格的混纺高弹环保面料的生产工艺 Download PDF

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CN106521781A
CN106521781A CN201611182646.1A CN201611182646A CN106521781A CN 106521781 A CN106521781 A CN 106521781A CN 201611182646 A CN201611182646 A CN 201611182646A CN 106521781 A CN106521781 A CN 106521781A
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fabric
blending
production technology
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preshrunk
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CN106521781B (zh
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徐卫民
冯燕平
董涛涛
李娟�
李慧兰
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Jiangsu Dongyuan Textile Technology Industry Co Ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了抽条风格的混纺高弹环保面料的生产工艺，面料由定纺的32S～45ST涤纶丝和色纱网络丝添加20～40D氨纶织造而成，色纱网络丝由50～65%的32～40S竹纤维、20～25%粘胶、15～25%莱赛尔网络而成，面料的生产工艺过程如下：织造→剖幅→定型→预缩→成品（1）在织造中，选用双面罗纹机进行织造，使织物具有抽条风格；（2）在定型中，使用长链脂肪族类柔软剂或氨基改性有机硅类柔软剂，定型温度为140～160℃，速度为18～26m/min，定型上超位115～120%，下超位100～110%，风机95～100%；（3）在预缩中，预缩温度为100～120℃，速度为20～25m/min，张力0.5～0.8N，超位20～30%。使用上述的生产工艺生产的面料具有硬挺抗皱、抗菌保健、吸湿透气、柔软光滑、抗紫外的特性。

Description

抽条风格的混纺高弹环保面料的生产工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及面料的生产工艺，尤其涉及到一种混纺面料的生产工艺。
背景技术
近年来，随着科学技术的发展和人民生活水平的提高，人们不仅要求面料硬挺抗皱，还要求面料具有抗菌保健、吸湿透气、柔软光滑、抗紫外的特性，但是传统服装面料功能单一，不能满足人们对服装面料多功能性的要求。
发明内容
本发明所要解决的技术问题是：将提供一种能使面料硬挺抗皱、抗菌保健、吸湿透气、柔软光滑、抗紫外的抽条风格的混纺高弹环保面料的生产工艺。
为了解决上述问题，本发明所采用的技术方案为：抽条风格的混纺高弹环保面料的生产工艺，面料由定纺的32S～45ST涤纶丝和色纱网络丝添加20～40D氨纶织造而成，面料的克重为160～200g/m2，色纱网络丝由50～65%的32～40S竹纤维、20～25%的粘胶、15～25%的莱赛尔网络而成，面料的生产工艺过程如下：织造→剖幅→定型→预缩→成品，其特点是：
（1）在织造中，选用34～38英寸18～20G的双面罗纹机进行织造，双面罗纹机在排针时双面布正面采用排列8～10根针再抽取3～5根针的组合方式，同时上针和下针全加氨纶，使得织造出的织物能具有固定间距的抽条状风格和高弹性能；
（2）在定型中，使用长链脂肪族类柔软剂或氨基改性有机硅类柔软剂，定型温度为140～160℃，速度为18～26m/min，定型上超位115～120%，下超位100～110%，风机95～100%；
（3）在预缩中，预缩温度为100～120℃，速度为20～25m/min，张力0.5～0.8N，超位20～30%。
进一步的，前述的抽条风格的混纺高弹环保面料的生产工艺，其中：面料的克重为160g/m2。
进一步的，前述的抽条风格的混纺高弹环保面料的生产工艺，其中：氨纶细度为20D，涤纶丝支数为40ST，色纱网络丝由65%的40S竹纤维、20%的粘胶、15%的莱赛尔网络而成。
进一步的，前述的抽条风格的混纺高弹环保面料的生产工艺，其中：选用34英寸18G的双面罗纹机进行织造。
进一步的，前述的抽条风格的混纺高弹环保面料的生产工艺，其中：双面罗纹机在排针时双面布正面采用排列10根针再抽取3根针的组合方式。
进一步的，前述的抽条风格的混纺高弹环保面料的生产工艺，其中：在定型中，使用氨基改性有机硅类柔软剂，定型温度为150℃，速度为22m/min，定型上超位115%，下超位100%，风机100%。
进一步的，前述的抽条风格的混纺高弹环保面料的生产工艺，其中：在预缩中，预缩温度为110℃，速度为23m/min，张力0.6N，超位25%。
本发明的优点为：使用本发明所述的抽条风格的混纺高弹环保面料的生产工艺生产的面料具有硬挺抗皱、抗菌保健、吸湿透气、柔软光滑、抗紫外的特性，并且该生产工艺中没有面料染色步骤，因而能大大减少污染物的排放，达到节能环保的目的。
具体实施方式
下面结合具体实施例对本发明作进一步的详细描述。
实施例1
抽条风格的混纺高弹环保面料的生产工艺，面料由定纺的40ST涤纶丝和色纱网络丝添加20D莱卡高弹氨纶织造而成，面料的克重为160g/m2，色纱网络丝由65%的40S竹纤维、20%的粘胶、15%的莱赛尔网络而成，面料的生产工艺过程如下：织造→剖幅→定型→预缩→成品
（1）在织造中，选用34英寸18G的双面罗纹机进行织造，双面罗纹机在排针时双面布正面采用排列10根针再抽取3根针的组合方式，同时上针和下针全加氨纶，使得织造出的织物能具有固定间距的抽条状风格和高弹性能，同时织物上固定的间距保证了织物的透气性；抽条织物是一种特殊的、或者说没有循环规律的正反面线圈相互配置组成的双面织物，对应织物中被抽针实为对面针床上进行反面编织的织针，因而整块织物好似在单面平针织物中配置了几条纵条纹；
（2）在实际生产中，剖幅可以在意大利生产的CORINO轧水、剖幅一体机上进行；
（3）在定型中，定型温度为150℃，速度为22m/min，定型上超位115%，下超位100%，风机100%；在实际生产中，定型工序可以在德国布鲁克钠定型机上进行；定型一般不使用树脂类成膜整理剂，可以使用长链脂肪族类柔软剂（如：苏州联胜化学有限公司生产的型号为软片EO），其可以赋予织物更加滑爽、丰满的手感；
（4）在预缩中，预缩温度为110℃，速度为23m/min，张力0.6N，超位25%；在实际生产中，预缩可以在LAFER KAM500预缩机上进行；预缩处理后，面料表面平整、细腻、色泽艳丽、光亮，具有真丝般的效果。预缩能进一步提高面料品质和尺寸稳定性，改善面料物理性能和保护面料表面质量，如有手感和目感、色彩和光泽、消除折痕、提高丰满度、表面光洁度、改善经纬密度的均匀性和纬斜。
实施例2
抽条风格的混纺高弹环保面料的生产工艺，面料由定纺的32S涤纶丝和色纱网络丝添加30D莱卡高弹氨纶织造而成，面料的克重为180g/m2，色纱网络丝由60%的35S竹纤维、25%的粘胶、15%的莱赛尔网络而成，面料的生产工艺过程如下：织造→剖幅→定型→预缩→成品
（1）在织造中，选用38英寸19G的双面罗纹机进行织造，双面罗纹机在排针时双面布正面采用排列9根针再抽取4根针的组合方式，同时上针和下针全加氨纶，使得织造出的织物能具有固定间距的抽条状风格和高弹性能，同时织物上固定的间距保证了织物的透气性；抽条织物是一种特殊的、或者说没有循环规律的正反面线圈相互配置组成的双面织物，对应织物中被抽针实为对面针床上进行反面编织的织针，因而整块织物好似在单面平针织物中配置了几条纵条纹；
（2）在实际生产中，剖幅可以在意大利生产的CORINO轧水、剖幅一体机上进行；
（3）在定型中，定型温度为140℃，速度为18m/min，定型上超位120%，下超位110%，风机98%；在实际生产中，定型工序可以在德国布鲁克钠定型机上进行；定型一般不使用树脂类成膜整理剂，可以使用氨基改性有机硅类柔软剂（如：苏州联胜化学有限公司生产的型号为柔软剂M6+），其可以赋予织物更加滑爽、丰满的手感；
（4）在预缩中，预缩温度为100℃，速度为20m/min，张力0.5N，超位20%；在实际生产中，预缩可以在LAFER KAM500预缩机上进行；预缩处理后，面料表面平整、细腻、色泽艳丽、光亮，具有真丝般的效果。预缩能进一步提高面料品质和尺寸稳定性，改善面料物理性能和保护面料表面质量，如有手感和目感、色彩和光泽、消除折痕、提高丰满度、表面光洁度、改善经纬密度的均匀性和纬斜。
实施例3
抽条风格的混纺高弹环保面料的生产工艺，面料由定纺的45ST涤纶丝和色纱网络丝添加40D莱卡高弹氨纶织造而成，面料的克重为200g/m2，色纱网络丝由50%的32S竹纤维、25%的粘胶、25%的莱赛尔网络而成，面料的生产工艺过程如下：织造→剖幅→定型→预缩→成品
（1）在织造中，选用38英寸20G的双面罗纹机进行织造，双面罗纹机在排针时双面布正面采用排列8根针再抽取5根针的组合方式，同时上针和下针全加氨纶，使得织造出的织物能具有固定间距的抽条状风格和高弹性能，同时织物上固定的间距保证了织物的透气性；抽条织物是一种特殊的、或者说没有循环规律的正反面线圈相互配置组成的双面织物，对应织物中被抽针实为对面针床上进行反面编织的织针，因而整块织物好似在单面平针织物中配置了几条纵条纹；
（2）在实际生产中，剖幅可以在意大利生产的CORINO轧水、剖幅一体机上进行；
（3）在定型中，定型温度为160℃，速度为26m/min，定型上超位118%，下超位105%，风机95%；在实际生产中，定型工序可以在德国布鲁克钠定型机上进行；定型一般不使用树脂类成膜整理剂，可以使用氨基改性有机硅类柔软剂（如：苏州联胜化学有限公司生产的型号为柔软剂M6+），其可以赋予织物更加滑爽、丰满的手感；
（4）在预缩中，预缩温度为120℃，速度为25m/min，张力0.8N，超位30%；在实际生产中，预缩可以在LAFER KAM500预缩机上进行；预缩处理后，面料表面平整、细腻、色泽艳丽、光亮，具有真丝般的效果。预缩能进一步提高面料品质和尺寸稳定性，改善面料物理性能和保护面料表面质量，如有手感和目感、色彩和光泽、消除折痕、提高丰满度、表面光洁度、改善经纬密度的均匀性和纬斜。
本发明的有益效果为：涤纶纤维易洗快干，挺括，但不透气；莱赛尔纤维舒适，手感好；粘胶纤维透气，价廉；竹纤维的抗菌性好；本发明所述的抽条风格的混纺高弹环保面料的生产工艺将涤纶纤维、莱赛尔纤维、粘胶纤维、竹纤维很好的混纺织造在一起，从而取长补短，使面料具有硬挺抗皱、抗菌保健、吸湿透气、柔软光滑、抗紫外的特性，并且该生产工艺中没有面料染色步骤，因而能大大减少污染物的排放，达到节能环保的目的。

Claims (7)

1.抽条风格的混纺高弹环保面料的生产工艺，面料由定纺的32S～45ST涤纶丝和色纱网络丝添加20～40D氨纶织造而成，面料的克重为160～200g/m2，色纱网络丝由50～65%的32～40S竹纤维、20～25%的粘胶、15～25%的莱赛尔网络而成，面料的生产工艺过程如下：织造→剖幅→定型→预缩→成品，其特征在于：
（1）在织造中，选用34～38英寸18～20G的双面罗纹机进行织造，双面罗纹机在排针时双面布正面采用排列8～10根针再抽取3～5根针的组合方式，同时上针和下针全加氨纶，使得织造出的织物能具有固定间距的抽条状风格和高弹性能；
（2）在定型中，使用长链脂肪族类柔软剂或氨基改性有机硅类柔软剂，定型温度为140～160℃，速度为18～26m/min，定型上超位115～120%，下超位100～110%，风机95～100%；
（3）在预缩中，预缩温度为100～120℃，速度为20～25m/min，张力0.5～0.8N，超位20～30%。
2.根据权利要求1所述的抽条风格的混纺高弹环保面料的生产工艺，其特征在于：面料的克重为160g/m2。
3.根据权利要求1或2所述的抽条风格的混纺高弹环保面料的生产工艺，其特征在于：氨纶细度为20D，涤纶丝支数为40ST，色纱网络丝由65%的40S竹纤维、20%的粘胶、15%的莱赛尔网络而成。
4.根据权利要求1或2所述的抽条风格的混纺高弹环保面料的生产工艺，其特征在于：选用34英寸18G的双面罗纹机进行织造。
5.根据权利要求1或2所述的抽条风格的混纺高弹环保面料的生产工艺，其特征在于：双面罗纹机在排针时双面布正面采用排列10根针再抽取3根针的组合方式。
6.根据权利要求1或2所述的抽条风格的混纺高弹环保面料的生产工艺，其特征在于：在定型中，使用氨基改性有机硅类柔软剂，定型温度为150℃，速度为22m/min，定型上超位115%，下超位100%，风机100%。
7.根据权利要求1或2所述的抽条风格的混纺高弹环保面料的生产工艺，其特征在于：在预缩中，预缩温度为110℃，速度为23m/min，张力0.6N，超位25%。
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