CN103653448B - The preparation method of the high-grade men suit collar of a kind of full hemp liner - Google Patents
The preparation method of the high-grade men suit collar of a kind of full hemp liner Download PDFInfo
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- CN103653448B CN103653448B CN201310716894.XA CN201310716894A CN103653448B CN 103653448 B CN103653448 B CN 103653448B CN 201310716894 A CN201310716894 A CN 201310716894A CN 103653448 B CN103653448 B CN 103653448B
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Abstract
The present invention relates to the preparation method of the high-grade men suit collar of a kind of full hemp liner, comprise lapel face, sit top collar, collar bottom wool fabric and the black carbon lining of neck core, following processing step is adopted to make: one, high-ranking military officer's core black carbon lining water vapour dries after steaming, to turn over, dry after sitting top collar cut-parts humidifier humidifies, collar bottom wool fabric is served as a contrast with the black carbon of neck core and sews up, neck stringcourse AB stitches cotton strip, lapel face and seat top collar are sewed up, lapel face collar extension margin to seam is clipped in collar bottom wool fabric and neck core black carbon serve as a contrast between sew up, finally return and pull out collar, adopt the not sticky lining of the collar of preparation method of the present invention, fiber crops lining is relied on namely to lead the black carbon lining of core to set off the moulding of collar completely, collar bottom wool fabric serves as a contrast with neck core black carbon and is stitched together by the mode of seam received by hand, make collar softness flexible, comfortable and easy to wear from however well-pressed, be applicable to all kinds of crowd dress.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to the preparation method of the high-grade men suit collar of a kind of full hemp liner.
Background technology
The adhesive lining Western-style clothes collar of current making with chemical fibre (adhesive lining) and woollen fiber (fabric) at certain pressure, stick together by force at temperature, such bonding mode can not change the characteristic of collar fabric wool fibre self, make collar fabric hardening, glossiness weakens, poor air permeability, lose the original comfort of pure wool fabric, and top collar has every print, collar is not docile smoother, if adhesive lining is glued and insecurely just be there will be the phenomenon of coming unstuck, wear easy wrinkling deformation for a long time, also must dry-clean during washing, otherwise fabric recovering of folds is poor, effect is worn in impact.
Summary of the invention
Technical problem to be solved by this invention is to provide a kind of good permeability, top collar not every the preparation method of print, the high-grade men suit collar of the docile smoother full hemp liner of collar.
The present invention adopts following technical scheme:
Collar of the present invention comprises the black carbon lining of lapel face, seat top collar, collar bottom wool fabric and neck core, adopts following processing step to make:
One, be placed in steam box by black for described neck core carbon lining, the water vapour passing into 110-120 DEG C steams taking-up after 12-16 hour, naturally cools, dries;
Two, described lapel face, seat top collar cut-parts humidifier humidifies were taken out after 30 minutes, naturally dry;
Three, described collar bottom wool fabric serve as a contrast with neck core black carbon adopts manual stitching to sew up, lead the black carbon of core to serve as a contrast collar extension 0.2cm-0.3cm longer than collar bottom wool fabric collar extension;
Four, by described collar bottom wool fabric along end opening limit upwards 2.4-2.5cm place picture lapel turn-line AB, C point is left neck shoulder point, and D point is that right neck takes on point, C point and D point symmetry; Described lapel turn-line AB is neck stringcourse AB, neck stringcourse AB stitches cotton strip, be critical collar bottom wool fabric along each 3cm place of CA, CD line at left neck shoulder point C point place while seam cotton strip 0.3-0.4cm, and be critical collar bottom wool fabric along each 3cm place of DC, DB line at right neck shoulder point D point place 0.3-0.4cm; The wide 0.25cm-0.35cm of described cotton strip;
Five, lapel face and seat top collar being sewed up, margin to seam 0.6cm, criticize and scald, leading upper edge to stitch 0.1cm open-wire line along sitting;
Six, lapel face collar extension margin to seam is clipped between collar bottom wool fabric and neck core black carbon serve as a contrast, sews up with floricome stitching, lead the black carbon of core to contrast collar bottom wool fabric four girth 0.2cm-0.3cm, reserve the amount of eating of 0.2-0.3cm at left and right lapel angle place;
Seven, return and pull out collar: with single line flush joint automatic tangent apply lining machine high-ranking military officer face mouth, lapel turnover amount stretches tight naturally along neck stringcourse AB, scalds collar along neck stringcourse AB folding; The hot collar of folding being placed on solid returns on neck ironing machine automatically again, aims at solid and automatically return in after neck ironing machine during neck is rear, wide symmetrical along neck stringcourse AB placement before lapel, then carries out pressing, and unplug collar collar extension, in collar, mouth normalized volume is returned flat.
Good effect of the present invention is as follows: lapel face of the present invention, sit the retractility of Absorbable organic halogens collar fabric after top collar humidifier humidifies, and after dress, collar fabric is not because of dry weather, humidity and make collar be out of shape; Collar bottom wool fabric and neck core black carbon serve as a contrasts and adopt craft to intersect stitching to be stitched together, make collar ventilative, soft, to bend freely and comfortable and easy to wear; Lapel face collar extension margin to seam is clipped between collar bottom wool fabric and neck core black carbon serve as a contrast, and the black carbon of neck core contrasts collar bottom wool fabric and leans out 0.2cm-0.3cm, combines with cutting needle stitching, makes lapel face open and flat less than every print; The amount of eating of 0.2-0.3cmcm is reserved at lapel angle to top collar, make neck collar extension rim of the mouth even, well-pressed, and neck angle naturally can not reflex action; Be critical collar bottom wool fabric at left and right neck shoulder point 3cm place the 0.3-0.4cm amount of eating, and makes mouth in collar smoother docile, meet the radian of human body neck; The present invention is by lapel face mouth, and turnover amount in lapel face stretches tight naturally along collar bottom wool fabric neck stringcourse, and the appearance reached will present different naturally curling according to human body, under various regimes can be freely comfortable, well-pressed docile.The collar made is placed on solid and automatically returns on neck ironing machine and return and pull out collar by the present invention, neck collar extension is unpluged gradually, inner collar mouth normalized volume is returned flat, neck angle is naturally docile, whole collar is docile smoother, more meet modelling of human body, put on docile, embrace neck, smoother, the collar outward appearance made according to preparation method of the present invention from however well-pressed, there is stronger third dimension and beautiful design, wear for a long time and not easily wrinkling deformation, conveniently washing, wear rear collar fabric elastic recovery good, the phenomenon of not coming unstuck occurs.
Adopt the not sticky lining of the collar of preparation method of the present invention, rely on fiber crops lining namely to lead core black carbon lining to set off the moulding of collar completely, collar bottom wool fabric serves as a contrast with the black carbon of neck core and is stitched together by the mode of seam received by hand, makes collar softness flexible, comfortable and easy to wear from however well-pressed, be applicable to all kinds of crowd dress.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Accompanying drawing 1 is the utility model structural representation;
Accompanying drawing 2 is the utility model lapel face and sits top collar structural representation;
Accompanying drawing 3 is the utility model collar bottom wool fabric structural representation;
Accompanying drawing 4 is the utility model cotton strip structural representation;
In the accompanying drawings: top collar, 3 neck core black carbon lining, 4 collar bottom wool fabrics, 5 manual stitchings, 6 cotton strip are sat in 1 lapel face, 2.
Detailed description of the invention
As shown in accompanying drawing 1,2,3,4, the present invention includes the black carbon lining 3 of lapel face 1, seat top collar 2, collar bottom wool fabric 4 and neck core, adopt following processing step to make:
One, be placed in steam box by black for described neck core carbon lining 3, the water vapour passing into 110-120 DEG C steams taking-up after 12-16 hour, and naturally cool, dry, with the retractility of stable neck core hair interlining, reach and match with the shrinkage of top collar, described steam box is common steam box;
Two, described lapel face 1, seat top collar 2 cut-parts humidifier humidifies are taken out nature after 30 minutes and dry; After dress, collar fabric is not because of dry weather, humidity and make collar be out of shape; Described humidifier is beautiful KS8U_06N humidifier;
Three, described collar bottom wool fabric 4 being served as a contrast 3 with the black carbon of neck core adopts manual stitching 5 to sew up, described manual stitching 5 is wave stitching or the stitching that intersects, neck core black carbon serves as a contrast 3 collar extensions 0.2cm-0.3cm longer than collar bottom wool fabric 4 collar extension, and the black carbon of neck core serves as a contrast 3 collar extensions and collar bottom wool fabric 4 collar extension and is the black carbon of neck core and serves as a contrast 3 collar extensions and collar bottom wool fabric 4 collar extension; Make collar ventilative, soft, bending freely and comfortable and easy to wear;
Four, by described collar bottom wool fabric 4 along end opening limit upwards 2.4-2.5cm place picture arc lapel turn-line AB, lapel turn-line AB and human body neck shin match, on lapel turn-line AB: C point is left neck shoulder point, D point is right neck shoulder point, and C point and D point are to lead rear middle symmetry; Described lapel turn-line AB is collar bottom wool fabric neck stringcourse AB, neck stringcourse AB stitches cotton strip 6, along CA, CD line each 3cm place, collar bottom wool fabric to be critical 0.3-0.4cm technique amount according to the left neck shoulder point C point place that do not coexist of fabric while seam cotton strip 6, along DC, DB line each 3cm place, collar bottom wool fabric to be critical 0.3-0.4cm technique amount according to the right neck shoulder point D point place that do not coexist of fabric; Make mouth in the collar made smoother docile, meet the radian of human body neck; The wide 0.25cm-0.35cm of described cotton strip 6, makes the collar after stitching present according to human body neck shin different naturally curling, under various regimes can be freely comfortable, well-pressed docile;
Five, lapel face 1 and seat top collar 2 being sewed up, margin to seam 0.6cm, criticize and scald, leading upper edge bundle 0.1cm open-wire line along sitting;
Six, lapel face 1 collar extension margin to seam is clipped in collar bottom wool fabric 4 and leads the black carbon of core to serve as a contrast between 3, sew up with cutting needle stitching, make lapel face open and flat not every print; Neck core black carbon lining 3, than collar bottom wool fabric 4 surrounding and each length of side 0.2cm-0.3cm, reserves the amount of eating of 0.2-0.3cm at left and right lapel angle place, make neck collar extension rim of the mouth even, well-pressed, and neck angle naturally can not reflex action;
Seven, return and pull out collar: with single line flush joint automatic tangent apply lining machine high-ranking military officer face mouth, lapel turnover amount stretches tight naturally along neck stringcourse 6, collar is scalded again along neck stringcourse 6 folding, it is Japanese JUKI that described single line flush joint automatic tangent applies lining machine, and model is that the single line flush joint automatic tangent of LT_591 applies lining machine; The hot collar of folding being placed on solid returns on neck ironing machine automatically again, aim at solid in after neck automatically to return in after neck ironing machine, wide along leading stringcourse 6 to place symmetrical before lapel, carry out pressing again, unplug collar collar extension, in collar, mouth normalized volume is returned flat, and described solid returns neck ironing machine to be Shanghai prestige scholar automatically, and model is that the solid of AZT_C56A returns neck ironing machine automatically.
The not sticky adhesive lining of collar of preparation method of the present invention, fiber crops lining is relied on namely to lead the black carbon lining 3 of core to set off the moulding of collar completely, collar bottom wool fabric 4 is served as a contrast 3 with the black carbon of neck core and is stitched together by the mode of seam received by hand, make collar softness flexible, the collar outward appearance adopting preparation method of the present invention to make from however well-pressed, there is stronger third dimension and beautiful design, long-time dress and not easily wrinkling deformation, convenient washing, wear rear collar fabric elastic recovery good, the phenomenon of not coming unstuck occurs, and make collar more meet the moulding of human body neck shin, put on rear docile, embrace neck, smoother, comfortable and easy to wear from however well-pressed, be applicable to all kinds of crowd dress.
Claims (1)
1. a preparation method for the high-grade men suit collar of full hemp liner, described collar comprises black carbon lining (3) of lapel face (1), seat top collar (2), collar bottom wool fabric (4) and neck core, it is characterized in that adopting following processing step to make:
One, be placed in steam box by black for described neck core carbon lining (3), the water vapour passing into 110 ~ 120 DEG C steams taking-up after 12 ~ 16 hours, naturally cools, dries;
Two, described lapel face (1), seat top collar (2) cut-parts humidifier humidifies were taken out after 30 minutes, naturally dry;
Three, described collar bottom wool fabric (4) being served as a contrast (3) with the black carbon of neck core adopts manual stitching (5) to sew up, neck core black carbon lining (3) collar extension 0.2cm-0.3cm longer than collar bottom wool fabric (4) collar extension;
Four, by described collar bottom wool fabric (4) along end opening limit upwards 2.4-2.5cm place picture lapel turn-line AB, C point is left neck shoulder point, and D point is that right neck takes on point, C point and D point symmetry; Described lapel turn-line AB is neck stringcourse AB, neck stringcourse AB stitches cotton strip (6), be critical collar bottom wool fabric along each 3cm place of CA, CD line at left neck shoulder point C point place while seam cotton strip (6) 0.3-0.4cm, and be critical collar bottom wool fabric along each 3cm place of DC, DB line at right neck shoulder point D point place 0.3-0.4cm; Described cotton strip (6) wide 0.25cm-0.35cm;
Five, lapel face (1) and seat top collar (2) being sewed up, margin to seam 0.6cm, criticize and scald, leading upper edge to stitch 0.1cm open-wire line along sitting;
Six, lapel face (1) collar extension margin to seam is clipped in collar bottom wool fabric (4) and leads the black carbon of core to serve as a contrast between (3), sew up with floricome stitching, black carbon lining (3) of neck core, than collar bottom wool fabric (4) four girth 0.2cm-0.3cm, reserves the amount of eating of 0.2-0.3cm at left and right lapel angle place;
Seven, return and pull out collar: with single line flush joint automatic tangent apply lining machine high-ranking military officer face mouth, lapel turnover amount stretches tight naturally along neck stringcourse AB, scalds collar along neck stringcourse AB folding; The hot collar of folding being placed on solid returns on neck ironing machine automatically again, aims at solid and automatically return in after neck ironing machine during neck is rear, wide symmetrical along neck stringcourse AB placement before lapel, then carries out pressing, and unplug collar collar extension, in collar, mouth normalized volume is returned flat.
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| CN201310716894.XA CN103653448B (en) | 2013-12-24 | 2013-12-24 | The preparation method of the high-grade men suit collar of a kind of full hemp liner |
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| CN201310716894.XA CN103653448B (en) | 2013-12-24 | 2013-12-24 | The preparation method of the high-grade men suit collar of a kind of full hemp liner |
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| CN103653448B true CN103653448B (en) | 2015-09-09 |
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Cited By (1)
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| CN106723438A (en) * | 2017-02-17 | 2017-05-31 | 吴国英 | Neckline closes the art shapes method of patch neck on customization western-style clothes |
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| CN104223525A (en) * | 2014-09-29 | 2014-12-24 | 闽江学院 | Stitch closure structure for reducing stitch slipping degree of clothing, and sewing method thereof |
| CN104544652B (en) * | 2015-01-12 | 2016-05-18 | 吴国英 | Make neckline complete the method for sewing of the suit collar of laminating neck |
| CN104544669B (en) * | 2015-01-30 | 2017-02-22 | 湖南省忘不了服饰有限公司 | Interlining attaching method suitable for batch production of high-end non-adhesive interlined suits |
| CN104585946B (en) * | 2015-01-30 | 2017-02-01 | 湖南省忘不了服饰有限公司 | Lining method for custom-tailoring of top-grade non-adhesive interlining business suit |
| CN105455277B (en) * | 2015-11-16 | 2017-01-25 | 胡亨有 | VU primitive number design tailoring method for lapels of clothing |
| CN108634392B (en) * | 2018-07-27 | 2023-10-20 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | Manufacturing method of lapel collar corner of high-grade shirt |
| CN109393609A (en) * | 2019-01-03 | 2019-03-01 | 浙江乔顿服饰股份有限公司 | A kind of viscous lining method of sewing of collar bottom wool fabric |
| CN111461663B (en) * | 2020-04-02 | 2021-05-14 | 雅派朗迪（北京）科技发展股份有限公司 | Wool product processing method based on cut pieces and finished product humidification |
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