CN102429334B - Method for manufacturing light and thin suit - Google Patents
Method for manufacturing light and thin suit Download PDFInfo
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- CN102429334B CN102429334B CN201110427638XA CN201110427638A CN102429334B CN 102429334 B CN102429334 B CN 102429334B CN 201110427638X A CN201110427638X A CN 201110427638XA CN 201110427638 A CN201110427638 A CN 201110427638A CN 102429334 B CN102429334 B CN 102429334B
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Abstract
The invention discloses a method for manufacturing light and thin suit. The method comprises the following steps of: cutting out a front interfacing, a side interfacing, a rear interfacing and an integrated liner, wherein a straight tape is ironed on the side vent where the side interfacing is connected with the rear interfacing; the upper end point of the straight tape is positioned at the corner of the top end of the side vent of the side interfacing, the lower end point of the straight tape is positioned on the bottom hemline, and the lower chamfer of the side interfacing is halved into two sections; the convex part of the side vent of the side interfacing is sewn along the upper end part of the straight tape after the straight tape is folded in half, the folded edge of the hem of the side vent is folded in half along the bottom hemline, and then sewn; the edge of a rear seam of the side interfacing, the folding outer edge of the side hem of the side interfacing and the folding edge of the lower chamfer are integrally wrapped; after the front interfacing presses a main liner, the shoulder presses an auxiliary liner, a reinforcing liner presses the lapel and the lower hem; the main liner presses the lapel of the integral liner; and the front interfacing, the side interfacing and the rear interfacing are sewn, and then sewn with the integral liner. The suit provided by the invention realizes that the weight of the suit is reduced and the ventilation and moisture-penetrability of the suit are increased while the shape of the suit is maintained.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to clothes and manufacture field, particularly relate to a kind of preparation method of light and thin type western-style clothes.
Background technology
The society man work of all bearing and immense pressure in life, and as the western-style clothes of man's everyday general purpose, it is more that auxiliary material is applied, make the weight of western-style clothes increase the weight of, increased raw-material use, also affected gas permeability and the poisture-penetrability of dress, such western-style clothes is through with it can produce pressure to our health, and retrain our health, be difficult to meet New Times man's demand.
In sum, existing western-style clothes, because auxiliary material is used too much, causes the gas permeability of western-style clothes and poisture-penetrability bad, affects wearer's mood.Increase simultaneously production time and raw-material use, caused the discharge of carbon dioxide to increase.
Summary of the invention
The invention provides a kind of preparation method of light and thin type western-style clothes, to solve existing western-style clothes because auxiliary material is used too much, cause gas permeability and the bad problem of poisture-penetrability of western-style clothes.
For achieving the above object, technical scheme of the present invention is achieved in that
The invention discloses a kind of preparation method of light and thin type western-style clothes, the method comprises: cut out respectively front cut pieces, side garment piece, rear garment piece, integral type inside;
Cut out respectively front cut pieces, side garment piece, rear garment piece, integral type inside;
At the side fork place that described side garment piece and rear garment piece join, scald a straight check rod; Wherein, the upper extreme point of described straight check rod is positioned at the corner on described side garment piece side fork top, and lower extreme point is positioned on bottom edge line, and lower extreme point is divided into two sections by described side garment piece downside hypotenuse;
By the evagination part of described side garment piece side fork after described straight check rod doubling, the upper part of described side fork is sewed up, the end of swing flanging of described side fork is sewed up after the doubling of end of swing line, tape edge edge and side garment piece side fork flanging collar extension and the whole bound edge of end of swing hemmed edges after the side garment piece;
After described front cut pieces was pressed to main lining, shoulder was pressed the secondary lining of one deck, split head and lap portion pressurization one deck reinforcing line; At integral type split head place inside, press one deck master lining; Described front cut pieces, side garment piece, rear garment piece are sewed up inside with described integral type after sewing up.
In sum, the invention discloses a kind of preparation method of light and thin type western-style clothes, the chest of the western-style clothes front cut pieces that the method is produced is not by black carbon lining, hair-cloth, the cotton composite chest interlining of making of chest; Described western-style clothes is used the half lining structure and has cancelled chest piece and shoulder pad, reduces the auxiliary material that western-style clothes is used; Reduce the position of pressing lining, solved existing western-style clothes because auxiliary material is used too much, cause gas permeability and the bad problem of poisture-penetrability of western-style clothes.
The accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 is the lining structural representation of a kind of light and thin type western-style clothes in the present invention,
Fig. 2 is the structural representation of a kind of front cut pieces of light and thin type western-style clothes in the present invention,
Fig. 3 is the integral type structural representation inside of a kind of light and thin type western-style clothes in the present invention,
Fig. 4 is the structural representation of a kind of rear garment piece of light and thin type western-style clothes in the present invention,
Fig. 5 is the structural representation of the side garment piece of a kind of light and thin type western-style clothes in the present invention.
The specific embodiment
For making the purpose, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention clearer, embodiment of the present invention is described further in detail below in conjunction with accompanying drawing.
The invention discloses a kind of preparation method of light and thin type western-style clothes, the chest of the front cut pieces of the western-style clothes that the method is made is not by black carbon lining, hair-cloth, the cotton composite chest interlining of making of chest; Wherein, the shoulder of the rear garment piece of described western-style clothes, front cut pieces and coat-sleeve are provided with lining; Side garment piece and there is no lining below the rear garment piece shoulder.In the present invention, described light and thin type western-style clothes is not used chest piece and shoulder pad, is provided with lining at the shoulder of described western-style clothes.
Fig. 1 is the lining structural representation of a kind of light and thin type western-style clothes in the present invention, and as shown in Figure 1, described front cut pieces, side garment piece, rear garment piece are sewed up inside with described integral type after sewing up.Wherein, the shoulder of the shoulder of the right side front cut pieces 101 of described light and thin type western-style clothes, left side front cut pieces 104, right side rear garment piece 102, left side rear garment piece 103 and described integral type are sewed up inside; The following position of shoulder of right side side garment piece 105, left side side garment piece 106, right side rear garment piece 102, the following position of shoulder of left side rear garment piece 103 are not covered inside by integral type.
Described right side integral type is 110 rear garment piece shoulder position inside, with described left side integral type inside 111 rear garment piece shoulder position after the neck of rear garment piece in position intersect, and partially overlap.As shown in Figure 1, described integral type rear garment piece shoulder position inside adopts the splayed design, can well cover whole shoulder, in the situation that do not use shoulder pad, keeps the shape of shoulder; Centre position intersects naturally after described neck, and its advantage is, can make the back of western-style clothes have better extensibility, freer light while wearing activity.
The direct flanging in back vent place 107 that right side side garment piece 105 is connected with right side rear garment piece 102 is made fork, and the height of the side fork of described side garment piece 105 is 23cm～27cm; The evagination part of described side garment piece side fork is after described straight check rod doubling, the upper part of described side fork is sewed up, the end of swing flanging of described side fork is sewed up after the doubling of end of swing line, after the side garment piece, tape edge edge and side garment piece side fork flanging collar extension and the whole bound edge of end of swing hemmed edges, uniform more attractive in appearance.
The side fork of the more usual western-style clothes of side fork of the side garment piece of method made provided by the invention western-style clothes is out wanted high 2cm～4cm, its advantage is, the design of high side fork has better activity, can improve the ventilative and poisture-penetrability of western-style clothes, and can regulate the hip circumference size, more fit while guaranteeing to wear.The advantage of using direct flanging to make fork is, reduces sealing thickness, alleviates the weight of clothes; As shown in Figure 1, the side garment piece side of the rear lap portion of described left side side garment piece 106 fork flanging collar extension line 112, for arc designs, makes whole lines inside more harmonious.
Because described western-style clothes is the left-right symmetry structure, the shoulder lining of described left side front cut pieces 104 and left side rear garment piece 103 is also integrated seamless design.The design that is applicable to left side is equally applicable to right side; The design of in like manner makeing on described western-style clothes right side is equally applicable to the western-style clothes left side.
In specific embodiments of the invention, on left side front cut pieces 104, be provided with large pocket 109 and tiny pocket 108, wherein, described large pocket 109 and tiny pocket 108 are used line ball technique, when placing articles, can not roll.
Fig. 2 is the structural representation of a kind of front cut pieces of light and thin type western-style clothes in the present invention, as shown in Figure 2, on described front cut pieces, presses main lining 2, and split head 201 and the bottom 202 places at described front cut pieces, on the basis of having pressed main lining 2, then press one deck reinforcing line 1; Shoulder position 203 at front cut pieces is pressed with the secondary lining 3 of one deck; Wherein, the size of described main lining 2 is half of front cut pieces.In other embodiments of the invention, the concrete size of described main lining, secondary lining, reinforcing line can design according to actual conditions.
Fig. 3 is the integral type structural representation inside of a kind of light and thin type western-style clothes in the present invention, and as shown in Figure 3, described integral type 301 comprises the lining 302 of front cut pieces and the lining 303 of rear garment piece shoulder inside.The lining 301 of described front cut pieces and the lining 303 of rear garment piece shoulder are one-body molded, make clothes lighter, and contact skin is more comfortable, and wherein, the described integral type drift angle of the silk tuft at 301 positions, top 306 inside is 7 °～9 °.As shown in Figure 3, press one deck master to serve as a contrast 2 in 301 split head 304 places inside in integral type, split head is turned over and more be convinced, at utmost reduce and press the lining position.
In the present invention, the integral type that described western-style clothes is used 301 material inside is identical with described fabric, uses fabric to be as the advantage of lining, makes the shoulder of described western-style clothes in the situation that do not use shoulder pad can play the effect of shoulder pad, in figure, dashed region 305.
Fig. 4 is the structural representation of a kind of rear garment piece of light and thin type western-style clothes in the present invention, as shown in Figure 4, is provided with secondary lining at the shoulder 401 of described rear garment piece.Described rear garment piece 102 designs for arc with the side that described side garment piece joins, and wherein, the seam part tie point 402 of take is cut-point, and after the part bound edge of described seam part tie point more than 402, seam part 1.0cm～2.0cm sews up; The following part of described seam part tie point, after bound edge, rear garment piece side fork flanging 3.0cm～4.0cm.In an embodiment of the present invention, described light and thin type western-style clothes has been cancelled shoulder pad, is provided with one deck lining in shoulder position, and after namely the face cloth of described shoulder position was pressed the secondary lining 3 of one deck, rear neck nest place and lining were sewed up; The shoulder position of rear garment piece in the shoulder position of the front cut pieces of Fig. 2 and Fig. 4, the pair lining 3 that it is pressed is the same lining cloth.Described shoulder adopts the seamless design of integral type, with front inner being connected, makes clothes lighter, and contact skin is more comfortable.
Fig. 5 is the structural representation of the side garment piece of a kind of light and thin type western-style clothes in the present invention; As shown in Figure 5, scald a straight check rod 504 that 0.5cm～1.5cm is wide is arranged at the side fork place 107 that described side garment piece 105 and rear garment piece 106 join, the length of described straight check rod 504 and described side fork 107 are isometric.Wherein, the upper extreme point c of described straight check rod 504 is positioned at the corner on described side garment piece 105 side fork tops, and lower extreme point is positioned on end of swing line 503, and lower extreme point d is divided into two sections by described side garment piece 105 downside hypotenuses 505.
Distance between the peak b at the evagination position of the upper extreme point c of described straight check rod and described side garment piece side fork is 3.0cm～4.0cm; Horizontal range between the upper extreme point c of described straight check rod and described side garment piece side fork summit a is 1.0cm～2.0cm; Wherein, in the horizontal direction, the peak b at the evagination position of described side garment piece side fork is than the high 0.4cm～0.8cm of described side garment piece side fork summit a; The upper extreme point a of described straight check rod 504 and the seam part tie point 402 on described rear garment piece 102 are contour, and overlap fixing.
In an embodiment of the present invention, described bound edge is sewed up and is specially: by the evagination part 501 of described side garment piece 105 sides forks after described straight check rod 504 doublings, along the upper extreme point c direction of described side garment piece 105 side fork summit a and straight check rod, cut off the edge of a knife of a 0.8cm～1.2cm, the upper end sealing of side fork is anti-seam 0.2cm～0.4cm again and is sewed up, last line ball 0.1cm～0.2cm.Wherein, the peak b at the evagination position of the described side garment piece side fork after doubling is positioned on the reverse extending line of side fork summit a and the upper extreme point c of straight check rod, and the rear seam bound edge line of the side garment piece after sewing up with described side garment piece and rear garment piece is crossing.
By the evagination part 501 of the side of described side garment piece 105 fork after described straight check rod 504 doublings, the upper part of described side fork is sewed up, end of swing flanging 502 edges of described side garment piece 105 are sewed up after 503 doublings of end of swing line, tape edge edge and side garment piece side fork flanging collar extension and the whole bound edge of end of swing hemmed edges after the side garment piece; Wherein, the outward flange of the evagination part 501 of described side garment piece 105 is arc, and outward flanges described side garment piece 105 and end of swing flanging 502 edges are arc; The outward flange of the evagination part 501 of the side garment piece 105 sides forks after flanging, overlap with the outward flange at end of swing flanging 502 edges of side garment piece 105 sides forks after flanging.As shown in the side garment piece side fork flanging collar extension line 112 of lap portion in Fig. 1.
Described side garment piece 105 downside hypotenuses 505 are 30 °～40 ° with the angle of the end of swing line 503 of described side garment piece 105; Wherein, the length of the downside hypotenuse 505 of described side garment piece 105 is 20cm～24cm.
Described straight check rod 504 is be used to preventing that pitching the borough chief goes out, and side garment piece 105 need not splice fork and paste, and directly flanging is made fork, reduces sealing thickness, alleviates the weight of clothes.
In an embodiment of the present invention, the reinforcing line 1 used is a kind of lining cloth that spins, and broadwise has certain elastic force, and warp-wise is inelastic, makes split head and the bottom, more naturally docile, and the grammes per square metre of described reinforcing line is: 30 grams/every square meter～38 grams/every square meter.Main lining 2 is a kind of linings that spin that are bonded in greatly with it.Adopt the raw material of polyester textured yarn, the cassimere twill structure forms; The grammes per square metre of described main lining is: 50 grams/every square meter～56 grams/every square meter.Described secondary lining 3 is for spinning lining, and the grammes per square metre of described secondary lining is: 30 grams/every square meter～38 grams/every square meter.
In specific embodiments of the invention, the fabric of described light and thin type western-style clothes is selected the blended yarn weaved fabric of the natural fiber that contains hair, silk, fiber crops etc.In the coat-sleeve sleeve, use the guest of natural fiber to seize by force lining, the smooth degree that the guest seizes by force lining is high, is easy to wear off.The shoulder of other position rear garment pieces, the material of lining that front cut pieces is used are identical with the material of described cloth, are all the blended yarn weaved fabrics that contains the natural fiber of hair, silk, fiber crops etc.
In the present invention, the main lining adopted, secondary lining and the warp-wise of reinforcing line and the shrinkage of broadwise are complementary with the shrinkage of described cloth, and require lining cloth to wash at normal temperature below 40 degrees centigrade, and wash indeformablely, can play guarantor's type effect preferably.And the use curve design in cutting of described main lining, secondary lining and reinforcing line, its purpose is to be difficult in appearance finding out the vestige of pressing lining.In an embodiment of the present invention, main lining is a kind of lining that spins be bonded in greatly with it, and the grammes per square metre of described main lining is: 53 grams/every square meter, and its weft yarn is thicker, and warp thread is younger, does not destroy the fabric person's character, the conformal better effects if.Secondary lining is a kind of lining that spins of slim and graceful softness, and every square meter only has 34 grams, and bonding place is naturally plentiful, also has good resilience.Described reinforcing line is for spinning lining, and the broadwise of described reinforcing line has elastic force, and warp-wise is inelastic.
In sum, the invention provides a kind of preparation method of light and thin type western-style clothes, the western-style clothes of the method making place has been used the fabric of light and thin type on material, structurally used the half lining structure, wherein, the design of the integrated seamless of lining shoulder, avoid sealing and shoulder friction when wearing next to the skin; And at shoulder, do not use shoulder pad only to add the secondary lining of one deck, guarantee to have alleviated the weight of western-style clothes simultaneously in the situation that do not have shoulder pad can keep the well-pressed of shoulder equally yet, wear more comfortable; Back place lining adopts cross-over design, and activity is good; Choosing of lining cloth, use the frivolous lining that spins, and can wash safely at normal temperature below 40 degrees centigrade, and the use curve design, guarantee not see in appearance the vestige of pressing lining.In inside, use wrapping process, the flanging of rear lap portion is used the arc design, makes the more unified harmony of lines inside, can because there is no lining, not seem disorderly and unsystematic.Light and thin type western-style clothes provided by the invention, in the outward appearance that guarantees western-style clothes, is used single-layer fabric directly to contact with human body to greatest extent, alleviates the weight of western-style clothes.
The foregoing is only preferred embodiment of the present invention, be not intended to limit protection scope of the present invention.All any modifications of doing within the spirit and principles in the present invention, be equal to replacement, improvement etc., all be included in protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (9)
1. the preparation method of a light and thin type western-style clothes, is characterized in that, the method comprises:
Cut out respectively front cut pieces, side garment piece, rear garment piece, integral type inside;
At the side fork place that described side garment piece and rear garment piece join, scald a straight check rod; Wherein, the upper extreme point of described straight check rod is positioned at the corner on described side garment piece side fork top, and lower extreme point is positioned on bottom edge line, and lower extreme point is divided into two sections by described side garment piece downside hypotenuse;
By the evagination part of described side garment piece side fork after described straight check rod doubling, the upper part of described side fork is sewed up, the end of swing flanging of described side fork is sewed up after the doubling of end of swing line, tape edge edge and side garment piece side fork flanging collar extension and the whole bound edge of end of swing hemmed edges after the side garment piece;
After described front cut pieces was pressed to main lining, shoulder was pressed the secondary lining of one deck, split head and lap portion pressurization one deck reinforcing line; At integral type split head place inside, press one deck master lining; Described front cut pieces, side garment piece, rear garment piece are sewed up inside with described integral type after sewing up;
Described integral type comprises inside: the lining of the lining of front cut pieces and rear garment piece shoulder; The lining of the lining of described front cut pieces and rear garment piece shoulder is one-body molded,
Wherein, after described front cut pieces, side garment piece, rear garment piece were sewed up, with described integral type, sew up and comprise inside: the lining of described integral type rear garment piece shoulder inside intersected in centre position after the neck of rear garment piece.
2. method according to claim 1, is characterized in that,
The integral type drift angle of the silk tuft on top inside is 7 °～9 °.
3. method according to claim 1, is characterized in that,
The straight check rod that 0.5cm～1.5cm is wide is scalded at side fork place at described side garment piece, and wherein, the height of the side of described side garment piece fork is 23cm～27cm.
4. method according to claim 3, is characterized in that,
Distance between the peak at the evagination position of the upper extreme point of described straight check rod and described side garment piece side fork is 3.0cm～4.0cm; Horizontal range between the upper extreme point of described straight check rod and described side garment piece side fork summit is 1.0cm～2.0cm; Wherein, the peak at the evagination position of described side garment piece side fork is than the high 0.4cm～0.8cm of described side garment piece side fork apex horizontal distance.
5. method according to claim 4, is characterized in that, the angle of the bottom edge line of described side garment piece downside hypotenuse and described side garment piece is 30 °～40 °; Wherein, the length of described side garment piece downside hypotenuse is 20cm～24cm.
6. method according to claim 4, is characterized in that, the evagination part of described side garment piece side fork is after described straight check rod doubling, and the upper part of described side fork is sewed up and comprised:
By the evagination part of described side garment piece side fork after described straight check rod doubling, along described side garment piece side fork summit and the upper extreme point direction of straight check rod, cut off the edge of a knife of a 0.8cm～1.2cm, side fork upper end sealing is anti-seam 0.2cm～0.4cm, last line ball 0.1cm～0.2cm again.
7. method according to claim 6, is characterized in that, after described side garment piece, tape edge edge and side garment piece side fork flanging collar extension and the whole bound edge of end of swing hemmed edges comprise:
The outward flange of the evagination part of described side garment piece side fork is arc, and the end of swing hemmed edges of described side garment piece is arc; Wherein, the outward flange of the evagination part of side garment piece side after flanging fork, overlap with the end of swing hemmed edges of side garment piece after flanging, and with the side garment piece after the tape edge edge carry out whole bound edge.
8. according to the described method of any one in claim 1～7, it is characterized in that,
The face cloth of described western-style clothes is used the blended yarn weaved fabric of natural fiber, and the shoulder of described rear garment piece, the material of lining that front cut pieces is used are identical with the material of described cloth; In the sleeve of described coat-sleeve, use the guest of natural fiber to seize by force lining.
9. method according to claim 8, is characterized in that,
Described main lining, secondary lining and the warp-wise of reinforcing line and the shrinkage of broadwise and the shrinkage of described cloth are complementary, and described lining cloth adopts Curve Design; Wherein, described main lining be bodice bonding spin lining, the grammes per square metre of described main lining is: 50 grams/every square meter～56 grams/every square meter; Described secondary lining is for spinning lining, and the grammes per square metre of described secondary lining is: 30 grams/every square meter～38 grams/every square meter; Described reinforcing line is for spinning lining, and the broadwise of described reinforcing line has elastic force, and warp-wise is inelastic, and the grammes per square metre of described reinforcing line is: 30 grams/every square meter～38 grams/every square meter.
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| CN201110427638XA CN102429334B (en) | 2011-12-19 | 2011-12-19 | Method for manufacturing light and thin suit |
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| CN201110427638XA CN102429334B (en) | 2011-12-19 | 2011-12-19 | Method for manufacturing light and thin suit |
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| CN102429334A CN102429334A (en) | 2012-05-02 |
| CN102429334B true CN102429334B (en) | 2013-11-27 |
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Families Citing this family (8)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN103859656B (en) * | 2014-03-06 | 2015-08-26 | 山东舒朗服装服饰股份有限公司 | A kind of processing method of glengarry |
| CN105455217A (en) * | 2014-08-25 | 2016-04-06 | 杨一鸣 | Western-style clothes without adhesive interlining and manufacturing method thereof |
| CN105019106A (en) * | 2015-07-01 | 2015-11-04 | 维柏思特衬布（南通）有限公司 | Production technology for water ripple resistant lining |
| CN107568813A (en) * | 2017-10-27 | 2018-01-12 | 江苏阳光股份有限公司 | Micro- heavy western-style clothes |
| CN109645581B (en) * | 2018-12-12 | 2021-06-08 | 报喜鸟控股股份有限公司 | Double-row buckle suit |
| CN109938424A (en) * | 2019-03-28 | 2019-06-28 | 杭州润娴服饰有限公司 | Vermicelli opens flap jacket structure in complete |
| CN112075678A (en) * | 2020-10-16 | 2020-12-15 | 江苏阳光集团有限公司 | Production process of cutting-free knitted suit |
| CN112471626B (en) * | 2020-11-24 | 2023-03-28 | 上海沙驰服饰有限公司 | Three-dimensional light suit |
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| CN102429334A (en) | 2012-05-02 |
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Address after: Yongjia Oubei County of Wenzhou City, Zhejiang province 325105 Angelo Industrial Park Patentee after: Angelo Cmi Holdings Ltd Address before: Yongjia Oubei County of Wenzhou City, Zhejiang province 325105 Angelo Industrial Park Patentee before: Zhejiang Baoxiniao Garment Co., Ltd. |