CN104585946B - Lining method for custom-tailoring of top-grade non-adhesive interlining business suit - Google Patents
Lining method for custom-tailoring of top-grade non-adhesive interlining business suit Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN104585946B CN104585946B CN201510048303.5A CN201510048303A CN104585946B CN 104585946 B CN104585946 B CN 104585946B CN 201510048303 A CN201510048303 A CN 201510048303A CN 104585946 B CN104585946 B CN 104585946B
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- Prior art keywords
- wadding
- fabric
- humidity
- anthropometric dummy
- lining
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H43/00—Other methods, machines or appliances
- A41H43/02—Handling garment parts or blanks, e.g. feeding, piling, separating or reversing
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D1/00—Garments
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
- A41D27/02—Linings
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)
- Details Of Garments (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a lining method for custom-tailoring of a top-grade non-adhesive interlining business suit. The method comprises the following steps: measuring; molding; baiting; lining; sewing; ending. The lining material and the shell fabric adopted in the method are appointed by a customer. The step of measuring comprises measurement of the body of the customer; the step of lining is performed in a constant-temperature constant-humidity working room and the temperature and the humidity in the constant-temperature constant-humidity working room are confirmed according to the selected lining material and the selected shell fabric; the step of molding comprises three dimension scanning for human body, manufacturing for a human body model, arrangement for a positioning device and mounting for the human body model; the temperature and the humidity in the constant-temperature constant-humidity working room are confirmed according to the selected lining material and the selected shell fabric; the lining material and the shell fabric tailored in the step of baiting are kept for 20-60 minutes together with the human body model in the constant-temperature constant-humidity working room under the conditions of preset temperature and humidity; the step of lining is performed in the constant-temperature constant-humidity working room and specifically comprises the following steps: positioning the lining material, positioning the shell fabric, positioning the lining fabric and sewing the lining material and the shell fabric.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of be applied to the cover lining method that high-grade non-adhering serves as a contrast Western-style clothes customization.
Background technology
With growth in the living standard, the demand that high-grade non-adhering serves as a contrast Western-style clothes is increasing, and client wants to its quality
Seek also more and more higher.Serve as a contrast in the manufacturing process of Western-style clothes in high-grade non-adhering, the quality of its cover lining operation leads to final products
Quality.Current cover lining method is completely dependent on having been manually done, and have carries out cover lining on the workbench of plane, also has
Carry out cover lining on concavo-convex workbench.Even the Western-style clothes of customization, the shape of the final finished product of above two mode
State is inconsistent with the form of garment wearer build, and property of mutually coincideing is poor, and the fabric and wadding humiture in cover lining does not obtain
To any control, generation is overall to be become so that fabric and wadding are mutually pullled to lead to Western-style clothes to be affected by ambient temperature and humidity when wearing
Shape, allows wearer to feel awkward.Its weak point:
1. the concordance in face, the panel shapes of lining cloth and buman body type carries out fuzzy Judgment only according to operator's experience, reaches not
To good compatibility relationship.
2. different tissues structure, the face of physical property, variable condition under different humitures for the lining cloth are according to operation
The qualitatively glimmer of person is it is difficult to accomplish quantitative analysis.
3., during cover lining, do not have figurate mould accurately and easily to carry out the cover lining of face lining cloth clothing body, to reach optimization
The effect of design.
4. low production efficiency.
5. couple operator has high demands.
Content of the invention
It is an object of the invention to overcoming deficiency of the prior art, provide a kind of human body matching precision high, to fabric lining
Material carries out specifying humiture pretreatment, and fabric wadding deformation when wearing is consistent substantially, can reduce operator's work
The high-grade non-adhering that is applied to of intensity and technology difficulty serves as a contrast the cover lining method that Western-style clothes customizes.
The purpose of the present invention is achieved by following technical proposals:
Methods described includes step amount body, molding, blanking, cover lining, sewing and end；The wadding dough-making powder that methods described uses
Expect specified by customization customer；Described step amount body is to the customization customer amount of carrying out body；
Described step cover lining is carried out in constant temperature and humidity work interior, and the indoor temperature and humidity of constant temperature and humidity work is according to choosing
Fixed wadding and fabric determine；
Described molding includes:
Human body three-dimensional scans: carries out human body three-dimensional to customization customer and scans and preserve data；
Make anthropometric dummy: with the data of human body three-dimensional scanning acquisition as foundation, human mould is made using 3d printing technique
Type；
Setting positioner: require to arrange the positioning dress of wadding and fabric according to dress designing and cutting in anthropometric dummy
Put；
Anthropometric dummy is installed: anthropometric dummy is arranged on the indoor Working gantry of constant temperature and humidity work；
The indoor temperature and humidity of described constant temperature and humidity work determines according to the wadding selected and fabric；
The wadding that described step blanking cuts out and fabric are being set together with anthropometric dummy in constant temperature and humidity work interior
Temperature and humidity under the conditions of keep 20-60 minute；
Described step cover lining is carried out in constant temperature and humidity work interior, is divided into left front part cover lining and right anterior plate cover lining, left front part
Cover lining and right anterior plate cover lining in no particular order, all using following steps:
Wadding positions: pave on model wadding, is smoothed with handss, is positioned to wadding with positioner；
Fabric positions: pave on the wadding having good positioning fabric, is smoothed with handss, is positioned to fabric with positioner；
Wadding fabric positions: the tightening degree of fine setting wadding, fabric and anthropometric dummy three reaches basically identical, replacement institute
Some positioners；
Wadding fabric quilting: wadding and fabric are adopted together with following order quilting with line:
A section sews with long stitches line: from shoulder seam midpoint 10cm about withdrawal of needle, saved by breast and turn at bag angle, further until base, seam
Thread path is: h1 > h2 > h3 > h4；
B section sews with long stitches line: at about 2cm inside split head turn-line, from neck angle point withdrawal of needle to waist nodel line, suture path is: h5 >
h6—>h7—>h4；
C section sews with long stitches line: from shoulder seam 10cm about withdrawal of needle, along muffs line to muffs oxter, suture path is: h5 > h8 >
h9—>h10.
Described step sewing also completes in constant temperature and humidity work interior.
Described positioner is location hole and positioning needle composition, and location hole is arranged in anthropometric dummy, and positioner works
When, positioning needle passes through wadding, or wadding and fabric are inserted in positioning in the hole.
Described positioner is negative pressure adsorption equipment: anthropometric dummy is fabricated to the cavity structure of sealing, in anthropometric dummy
Work surface on several micropores are set, the cavity structure of anthropometric dummy connects vacuum pump, covers vacuum pump work during material, by people
Micropore on body Model produces the negative pressure of certain pressure, and wadding and fabric absorption are fixed.
Slewing equipment and/or laterally turning-over device are installed between described Working gantry and anthropometric dummy.
Compared with prior art, the invention has the advantages that methodological science is reasonable, easy to operate, reduce to operation
The requirement of person's level of skill, reduces cover lining technology difficulty and labor intensity, improves plastic stability and the fitness of Western-style clothes, improves
Product quality and production efficiency.Its final products human body matching precision is high, fabric wadding after specific humiture pretreatment,
When wear in expected environment, the deformation of its fabric wadding is consistent substantially, is capable of perfect dress materials embodying modernization and its now
The combination of the dress designing in generation, cutting and sewing technology.
Brief description
Fig. 1 is the process chart of the inventive method；
Fig. 2 is the quilting sequential schematic of the inventive method.
Specific embodiment
The invention will be further described with reference to the accompanying drawings and examples:
Methods described includes step amount body 1, molding 2, blanking 3, cover lining 4, sewing 5 and terminates 6；The lining that methods described uses
Material and fabric are specified by customization customer；Described step amount body 1 is to the customization customer amount of carrying out body；
Described step cover lining 4 is carried out in constant temperature and humidity work interior, the indoor temperature and humidity of constant temperature and humidity work according to
Selected wadding and fabric determine；
Described molding 2 includes:
Human body three-dimensional scanning 201: human body three-dimensional is carried out to customization customer and scans and preserve data；
Make anthropometric dummy 202: with the data of human body three-dimensional scanning 201 acquisition as foundation, make using 3d printing technique
Anthropometric dummy；
Setting positioner 203: require to arrange determining of wadding and fabric in anthropometric dummy according to dress designing and cutting
Position device；
Anthropometric dummy 204 is installed: anthropometric dummy is arranged on the indoor Working gantry of constant temperature and humidity work；
The indoor temperature and humidity of described constant temperature and humidity work determines according to the wadding selected and fabric；
The wadding that described step blanking 3 cuts out and fabric are being set together with anthropometric dummy in constant temperature and humidity work interior
Temperature and humidity under the conditions of keep 20-60 minute；
Described step cover lining 4 is carried out in constant temperature and humidity work interior, is divided into left front part cover lining and right anterior plate cover lining, left front part
Cover lining and right anterior plate cover lining in no particular order, all using following steps:
Wadding positioning 401: pave on model wadding, is smoothed with handss, is positioned to wadding with positioner；
Fabric positioning 402: pave on the wadding having good positioning fabric, is smoothed with handss, is positioned to fabric with positioner；
Wadding fabric positioning 403: the tightening degree of fine setting wadding, fabric and anthropometric dummy three reaches basically identical, weight
Put all of positioner；
Wadding fabric quilting 404: wadding and fabric are adopted together with following order quilting with line:
A section sews with long stitches line: from shoulder seam midpoint 10cm about withdrawal of needle, saved by breast and turn at bag angle, further until base, seam
Thread path is: h1 > h2 > h3 > h4；
B section sews with long stitches line: at about 2cm inside split head turn-line, from neck angle point withdrawal of needle to waist nodel line, suture path is: h5 >
h6—>h7—>h4；
C section sews with long stitches line: from shoulder seam 10cm about withdrawal of needle, along muffs line to muffs oxter, suture path is: h5 > h8 >
h9—>h10.
Described step sewing 5 also completes in constant temperature and humidity work interior.
Described positioner is location hole and positioning needle composition, and location hole is arranged in anthropometric dummy, and positioner works
When, positioning needle passes through wadding, or wadding and fabric are inserted in positioning in the hole.
Described positioner is negative pressure adsorption equipment: anthropometric dummy is fabricated to the cavity structure of sealing, in anthropometric dummy
Work surface on several micropores are set, the cavity structure of anthropometric dummy connects vacuum pump, covers vacuum pump work during material, by people
Micropore on body Model produces the negative pressure of certain pressure, and wadding and fabric absorption are fixed.
Slewing equipment and/or laterally turning-over device are installed between described Working gantry and anthropometric dummy.
In the examples below: the wadding that methods described uses and fabric are specified by customization customer.
Embodiment 1:
Step amount body 1: be to the customization customer amount of carrying out body.
Step molding 2: include:
Human body three-dimensional scanning 201: human body three-dimensional is carried out to customization customer and scans and preserve data；
Make anthropometric dummy 202: with the data of human body three-dimensional scanning 201 acquisition as foundation, make using 3d printing technique
Anthropometric dummy；
Setting positioner 203: require to arrange determining of wadding and fabric in anthropometric dummy according to dress designing and cutting
Position device；
Anthropometric dummy 204 is installed: anthropometric dummy is arranged on the indoor Working gantry of constant temperature and humidity work；
Step blanking 3: according to known technology cutting blanking.The wadding that cuts out and fabric constant temperature and humidity work indoor with
Anthropometric dummy keeps 20-60 minute together under the conditions of the temperature and humidity setting.
Step cover lining 4: carry out in constant temperature and humidity work interior, the indoor temperature and humidity of constant temperature and humidity work is according to selected
Wadding and fabric determine；It is divided into left front part cover lining and right anterior plate cover lining, left front part cover lining and right anterior plate cover lining in no particular order, all
Using following steps:
Wadding positioning 401: pave on model wadding, is smoothed with handss, is positioned to wadding with positioner；
Fabric positioning 402: pave on the wadding having good positioning fabric, is smoothed with handss, is positioned to fabric with positioner；
Wadding fabric positioning 403: the tightening degree of fine setting wadding, fabric and anthropometric dummy three reaches basically identical, weight
Put all of positioner；
Wadding fabric quilting 404: wadding and fabric are adopted together with following order quilting with line:
A section sews with long stitches line: from shoulder seam midpoint 10cm about withdrawal of needle, saved by breast and turn at bag angle, further until base, seam
Thread path is: h1 > h2 > h3 > h4；
B section sews with long stitches line: at about 2cm inside split head turn-line, from neck angle point withdrawal of needle to waist nodel line, suture path is: h5 >
h6—>h7—>h4；
C section sews with long stitches line: from shoulder seam 10cm about withdrawal of needle, along muffs line to muffs oxter, suture path is: h5 > h8 >
h9—>h10.
Embodiment 2:
Essentially identical with embodiment, except for the difference that step sewing 5 also completes in constant temperature and humidity work interior.
Embodiment 3,4:
Essentially identical with embodiment 1,2 respectively, except for the difference that: positioner is location hole and positioning needle composition, location hole
It is arranged in anthropometric dummy, during positioner work, positioning needle passes through wadding, or wadding and fabric are inserted in positioning in the hole.
Embodiment 5,6:
Essentially identical with embodiment 1,2 respectively, except for the difference that: described positioner is negative pressure adsorption equipment: by human mould
Type is fabricated to the cavity structure of sealing, arranges several micropores, the cavity structure of anthropometric dummy on the work surface of anthropometric dummy
Connect vacuum pump, cover vacuum pump work during material, produce the negative pressure of certain pressure by the micropore in anthropometric dummy, wadding serves as a contrast
Material and fabric absorption are fixed.
Embodiment 7-12:
Respectively on the basis of embodiment 1-6, slewing equipment and/or rollover dress are installed between Working gantry and anthropometric dummy
Put.
The method of the present invention emphasis following technical problem of solution:
1st, Western-style clothes is allowed more to fit human body.The method solving is exactly step molding 2, cover lining 4 and sewing 5.
2nd, wear Western-style clothes in designated environment and do not produce any deformation.Solution is step cover lining 4 and/or sewing 5 exists
Constant temperature and humidity work interior is carried out, and fabric and wadding are carried out with the pretreatment of specific humiture.
3rd, reduce the requirement to operator's technical merit.The method solving just is mounted in the indoor work of constant temperature and humidity work
Make the anthropometric dummy on stand.
4th, improve production efficiency.The method solving just is mounted in the human body on the indoor Working gantry of constant temperature and humidity work
Model.
5th, the perfect clothing optimization design embodying modernization and cutting Technology.The method solving is exactly the inventive method
Overall Steps make a concerted effort combine.
Claims (7)
1. a kind of cover lining method being applied to high-grade non-adhering lining Western-style clothes customization, methods described includes step amount body (1), molding
(2), blanking (3), cover lining (4), sewing (5) and end (6)；The wadding that methods described uses and fabric are customization customer indication
Fixed；Described step amount body (1) is to the customization customer amount of carrying out body；It is characterized in that:
Described step cover lining (4) is carried out in constant temperature and humidity work interior, and the indoor temperature and humidity of constant temperature and humidity work is according to choosing
Fixed wadding and fabric determine；
Described molding (2) includes:
Human body three-dimensional scans (201): carries out human body three-dimensional to customization customer and scans and preserve data；
Make anthropometric dummy (202): with human body three-dimensional scanning (201) data that obtains as foundation, make using 3d printing technique
Anthropometric dummy；
Setting positioner (203): require to arrange the positioning of wadding and fabric according to dress designing and cutting in anthropometric dummy
Device；
Anthropometric dummy (204) is installed: anthropometric dummy is arranged on the indoor Working gantry of constant temperature and humidity work；
The indoor temperature and humidity of described constant temperature and humidity work determines according to the wadding selected and fabric；
Wadding that described step blanking (3) cuts out and fabric are being set constant temperature and humidity work is indoor together with anthropometric dummy
20-60 minute is kept under the conditions of temperature and humidity；
Described step cover lining (4) is carried out in constant temperature and humidity work interior, is divided into left front part cover lining and right anterior plate cover lining, left front part covers
Serve as a contrast with right anterior plate cover lining in no particular order, all using following steps:
Wadding positions (401): pave on model wadding, is smoothed with handss, is positioned to wadding with positioner；
Fabric positions (402): pave on the wadding having good positioning fabric, is smoothed with handss, is positioned to fabric with positioner；
Wadding fabric positions (403): fine setting wadding, fabric and the tightening degree of anthropometric dummy three reach consistent, reset and own
Positioner；
Wadding fabric quilting (404): wadding and fabric are adopted together with following order quilting with line:
A section sews with long stitches line: from shoulder seam midpoint 10cm about withdrawal of needle, saved by breast and turn at bag angle, further until base, suture road
Footpath is: h1 > h2 > h3 > h4；
B section sews with long stitches line: suture path is: h5 > h6 > h7 > h4；
C section sews with long stitches line: suture path is: h5 > h8 > h9 > h10；
Wherein:
H5: outside split head turn-line 2cm about and shoulder seam under 10cm about place；
H6: at waist nodel line；
H7: close at clothes base；
H8: near muffs be located at shoulder seam under 10cm about place；
H9: at muffs oxter；
H10: between h5 and h6 at waist nodel line.
2. method according to claim 1 it is characterised in that: described step sewing (5) also works indoor in constant temperature and humidity
Complete.
3. method according to claim 1 and 2 it is characterised in that: described positioner is that location hole and positioning needle form,
Location hole is arranged in anthropometric dummy, and during positioner work, positioning needle passes through wadding, or wadding and fabric are inserted in location hole
Interior.
4. method according to claim 1 and 2 it is characterised in that: described positioner be negative pressure adsorption equipment: by human body
Modelling becomes the cavity structure of sealing, arranges several micropores, the cavity knot of anthropometric dummy on the work surface of anthropometric dummy
Structure connects vacuum pump, covers vacuum pump work during material, produces the negative pressure of certain pressure by micropore in anthropometric dummy, by wadding and
Fabric absorption is fixed.
5. method according to claim 1 and 2 it is characterised in that: install back between described Working gantry and anthropometric dummy
Rotary device and/or laterally turning-over device.
6. method according to claim 3 it is characterised in that: between described Working gantry and anthropometric dummy install revolution dress
Put and/or laterally turning-over device.
7. method according to claim 4 it is characterised in that: between described Working gantry and anthropometric dummy install revolution dress
Put and/or laterally turning-over device.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201510048303.5A CN104585946B (en) | 2015-01-30 | 2015-01-30 | Lining method for custom-tailoring of top-grade non-adhesive interlining business suit |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201510048303.5A CN104585946B (en) | 2015-01-30 | 2015-01-30 | Lining method for custom-tailoring of top-grade non-adhesive interlining business suit |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
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| CN104585946A CN104585946A (en) | 2015-05-06 |
| CN104585946B true CN104585946B (en) | 2017-02-01 |
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| CN201510048303.5A Active CN104585946B (en) | 2015-01-30 | 2015-01-30 | Lining method for custom-tailoring of top-grade non-adhesive interlining business suit |
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| CN112380687B (en) * | 2020-11-10 | 2024-02-13 | 西安工程大学 | Fuzzy theory-based western-style clothes quick lining quantification method |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US6546309B1 (en) * | 2000-06-29 | 2003-04-08 | Kinney & Lange, P.A. | Virtual fitting room |
| US6725124B2 (en) * | 2000-09-11 | 2004-04-20 | He Yan | System and method for texture mapping 3-D computer modeled prototype garments |
| US20030126673A1 (en) * | 2002-01-04 | 2003-07-10 | Kristin Yardley | Welded seam outerwear |
| US7657341B2 (en) * | 2006-01-31 | 2010-02-02 | Dragon & Phoenix Software, Inc. | System, apparatus and method for facilitating pattern-based clothing design activities |
| CN201541780U (en) * | 2009-10-21 | 2010-08-11 | 北京威克多制衣中心 | Chest liner |
| CN201894197U (en) * | 2010-11-29 | 2011-07-13 | 浙江报喜鸟服饰股份有限公司 | Western-style clothes suitable for being worn in summer |
| CN103462285B (en) * | 2013-09-13 | 2015-11-18 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | A kind of preparation method of docile split head |
| CN103653448B (en) * | 2013-12-24 | 2015-09-09 | 际华三五零二职业装有限公司 | The preparation method of the high-grade men suit collar of a kind of full hemp liner |
| CN103783706B (en) * | 2014-03-03 | 2015-07-22 | 湖南省忘不了服饰有限公司 | Adult male series mannequin building method based on oval Fourier description |
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