CN103653448A

CN103653448A - Method for making full linen lining collar of high-grade men's suit

Info

Publication number: CN103653448A
Application number: CN201310716894.XA
Authority: CN
Inventors: 陈立芹; 苏荣; 陆卿; 王连海
Original assignee: Jihua 3502 Professional Garment Co Ltd
Current assignee: Jihua 3502 Professional Garment Co Ltd
Priority date: 2013-12-24
Filing date: 2013-12-24
Publication date: 2014-03-26
Anticipated expiration: 2033-12-24
Also published as: CN103653448B

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for making a full linen lining collar of a high-grade men's suit. The collar comprises top lapels, a sitting top collar, bottom collar woolen cloth and a collar core black carbon lining. The method includes the following technological steps that first, the collar core black carbon lining is aired after being processed by water vapor in a steaming mode, cut pieces of the top lapels and the sitting top collar are aired after being humidified through a humidifier, the bottom collar woolen cloth and the collar core black carbon lining are sewn, a cotton tape is sewn on a collar waistline AB, the top lapels and the sitting top collar are sewn, sewing joints on the outer edges of the top lapels are clipped between the bottom collar woolen cloth and the collar core black carbon lining to be sewn, and finally the collar is pulled to be shaped. The collar made with the making method does not need fusible interlining and totally depends on linen lining, namely the collar core black carbon lining, to foil the shape of the collar, the bottom collar woolen cloth and the collar core black carbon lining are sewn together with a manual sewing method, and thus the collar is soft, elastic, comfortable, natural and stiff and smooth to wear and suitable for being worn by various groups of people.

Description

The preparation method of the high-grade men suit collar of a kind of full hemp liner

Technical field

The present invention relates to the preparation method of the high-grade men suit collar of a kind of full hemp liner.

Background technology

The adhesive lining Western-style clothes collar of making at present with chemical fibre (adhesive lining) and woollen fiber (fabric) at certain pressure, at temperature, stick together by force, such bonding mode can not change the characteristic of collar fabric wool fibre self, make the hardening of collar fabric, glossiness weakens, gas permeability is poor, lost the original comfort of pure wool fabric, and top collar has every seal, collar is not docile smoother, if adhesive lining is glued the insecure phenomenon of coming unstuck that just there will be, the easy wrinkling distortion of long-time dress, during washing, also must dry-clean, otherwise fabric recovering of folds is poor, effect is worn in impact.

Summary of the invention

Technical problem to be solved by this invention is to provide a kind of good permeability, top collar does not have the preparation method every seal, the high-grade men suit collar of the docile smoother full hemp liner of collar.

The present invention adopts following technical scheme:

Collar of the present invention comprises the black carbon lining of lapel face, seat top collar, collar bottom wool fabric and neck core, adopts following processing step to make:

One, the black carbon lining of described neck core is placed in steam box, the water vapour that passes into 110-120 ℃ steams taking-up after 12-16 hour, naturally cooling, dries;

Two, described lapel face, the cut-parts of seat top collar are taken out after 30 minutes with humidifier humidification, naturally dry;

Three, adopt manual stitching to sew up the black carbon lining of described collar bottom wool fabric and neck core, the black carbon lining of neck core collar extension is than the long 0.2cm-0.3cm of collar bottom wool fabric collar extension;

Four, described collar bottom wool fabric is made progress along end opening limit lapel turn-line AB of 2.4-2.5cm place picture, C point is left neck shoulder point, D point is that right neck is takeed on point, C point and D point symmetry; Described lapel turn-line AB is neck stringcourse AB, the cotton band of seam on neck stringcourse AB, in the time of the cotton band of seam at left neck shoulder point C point place along CA, each 3cm place of CD line by the collar bottom wool fabric 0.3-0.4cm that is critical, at a right neck shoulder D point place along DC, each 3cm place of DB line by the collar bottom wool fabric 0.3-0.4cm that is critical; Described cotton bandwidth 0.25cm-0.35cm;

Five, lapel face is sewed up with sitting top collar, margin to seam 0.6cm, criticizes and scalds, and along sitting neck upper edge, stitches 0.1cm open-wire line;

Six, lapel face collar extension margin to seam is clipped between the black carbon lining of collar bottom wool fabric and neck core, with floricome stitching, sews up, the black carbon of neck core contrasts the long 0.2cm-0.3cm of collar bottom wool fabric surrounding, in the amount of eating of the reserved 0.2-0.3cm in place, left and right lapel angle;

Seven, return and pull out collar: with single line flush joint automatic tangent, apply lining machine high-ranking military officer face mouth, lapel turnover amount along leading stringcourse AB naturally to stretch tight, along neck stringcourse AB folding, scald collar; The hot collar of folding is placed on to solid again and automatically returns on neck ironing machine, aim in after neck during solid returns after neck ironing machine automatically, widely before lapel along neck stringcourse AB, place symmetrically, then carry out pressing, unplug collar collar extension, in collar, a mouthful normalized volume is returned flat.

Good effect of the present invention is as follows: lapel face of the present invention, seat top collar are with stablizing the retractility of collar fabric after humidifier humidification, and after dress, collar fabric is because dry weather, the moist collar that makes are out of shape; Collar bottom wool fabric adopts the manual stitching that intersects to be stitched together with the black carbon of neck core lining, make that collar is ventilative, soft, bending freely and comfortable and easy to wear; Lapel face collar extension margin to seam is clipped between collar bottom wool fabric and the black carbon lining of neck core, and the black carbon of neck core contrasts collar bottom wool fabric and leans out 0.2cm-0.3cm, with cutting needle stitching, combines, and makes lapel face open and flat not every seal; Lapel angle, to the amount of eating of the reserved 0.2-0.3cmcm of top collar, makes to lead collar extension rim of the mouth even, well-pressed, and neck angle naturally can reflex action; The 0.3-0.4cm amount of eating that collar bottom wool fabric is critical at left and right neck shoulder point 3cm place, makes in collar mouth smoother docile, meets the radian of human body neck; The present invention is lapel face mouth, and lapel face turnover amount stretches tight naturally along collar bottom wool fabric neck stringcourse, and the appearance effect reaching will present according to human body different naturally curling, can be freely comfortable under various states, and well-pressed docile.The present invention is placed on solid by the collar of making and automatically returns neck to return on ironing machine to pull out collar, make to lead collar extension to unplug gradually, inner collar mouth normalized volume is returned flat, neck angle is naturally docile, whole collar is docile smoother, more meet modelling of human body, put on docile, armful neck, smoother, yet the collar outward appearance of making according to preparation method of the present invention is from well-pressed, there is stronger third dimension and beautiful design, dress and the distortion that do not crease easily for a long time, convenient washing, wear rear collar fabric elasticity restorative good, the phenomenon of not coming unstuck occurs.

Adopt the not sticky lining of collar of preparation method of the present invention, the moulding that relies on fiber crops lining to lead the black carbon of core to set off collar completely, the mode of stitching of receiving is by hand stitched together the black carbon lining of collar bottom wool fabric and neck core, makes collar softness flexible, yet comfortable and easy to wear from well-pressed, be applicable to all kinds of crowd's dresses.

Accompanying drawing explanation

Accompanying drawing 1 is structural representation of the present invention;

Accompanying drawing 2 is for lapel face of the present invention and sit top collar structural representation;

Accompanying drawing 3 is collar bottom wool fabric structural representation of the present invention;

Accompanying drawing 4 is the cotton band structure schematic diagram of the present invention;

In the accompanying drawings: 1 lapel face, 2 is sat top collar, the black carbon lining of 3 neck core, 4 collar bottom wool fabrics, 5 manual stitchings, 6 cotton bands.

The specific embodiment

As shown in accompanying

drawing

1,2,3,4, the present invention includes the black carbon lining 3 of lapel face 1, seat top collar 2, collar bottom wool fabric 4 and neck core, adopt following processing step to make:

One, the black carbon lining 3 of described neck core is placed in steam box, the water vapour that passes into 110-120 ℃ steams taking-up after 12-16 hour, naturally cooling, dries, and to stablize the retractility of neck core hair interlining, reaches with the shrinkage of top collar and matches, and described steam box is common steam box;

Two, described

lapel face

1,2 cut-parts of seat top collar are taken out to nature with humidifier humidification after 30 minutes and dried; After dress, collar fabric is not because dry weather, the moist collar that makes are out of shape; Described humidifier is beautiful KS8U_06N humidifier;

Three, adopt manual stitching 5 to sew up the black carbon lining 3 of described collar bottom wool fabric 4 and neck core, described manual stitching 5 is wave stitching or the stitching that intersects, neck core black carbon serves as a contrast 3 collar extensions than the long 0.2cm-0.3cm of collar bottom wool fabric 4 collar extension, and the black carbon of neck core serves as a contrast 3 collar extensions and collar bottom wool fabric 4 collar extensions and is the black carbon of neck core and serves as a contrast 3 collar extensions and collar bottom wool fabric 4 collar extensions one side; Make that collar is ventilative, soft, bending freely and comfortable and easy to wear;

Four, described collar bottom wool fabric 4 is made progress along end opening limit arc lapel turn-line AB of 2.4-2.5cm place picture, lapel turn-line AB and human body neck shin match, on lapel turn-line AB: to be left neck shoulder point, D point take on point for right neck to C point, and C point and D point are to lead rear middle symmetry; Described lapel turn-line AB is collar bottom wool fabric neck stringcourse AB, on neck stringcourse AB, stitch cotton and be with 6, seam cotton with 6 time according to the left neck shoulder point of not coexisting of fabric C point place along CA, each 3cm place of CD line by the collar bottom wool fabric 0.3-0.4cm technique amount that is critical, according to the right neck shoulder of not coexisting of a fabric D point place along DC, each 3cm place of DB line by the collar bottom wool fabric 0.3-0.4cm technique amount that is critical; In the collar that makes to make, mouth is smoother docile, meets the radian of human body neck; Described cotton is with 6 wide 0.25cm-0.35cm, collar after sewing up is presented different naturally curling according to human body neck shin, can be freely comfortable under various states, and well-pressed docile;

Five, lapel face 1 is sewed up with sitting top collar 2, margin to seam 0.6cm, criticizes and scalds, along sitting neck upper edge bundle 0.1cm open-wire line;

Six, lapel face 1 collar extension margin to seam is clipped between the black carbon lining 3 of collar bottom wool fabric 4 and neck core, with cutting needle stitching, sews up, make lapel face open and flat not every seal; The black carbon of neck core lining 3 is each length of side 0.2cm-0.3cm than collar bottom wool fabric 4 surroundings, and the amount of eating at the reserved 0.2-0.3cm in place, left and right lapel angle, makes to lead collar extension rim of the mouth even, well-pressed, and neck angle naturally can reflex action;

Seven, return and pull out collar: with single line flush joint automatic tangent, apply lining machine high-ranking military officer face mouth, lapel turnover amount along leading stringcourse 6 naturally to stretch tight, along neck stringcourse 6 foldings, scald collar again, it is Japanese JUKI that described single line flush joint automatic tangent applies lining machine, and the single line flush joint automatic tangent that model is LT_591 applies lining machine; The hot collar of folding being placed on to solid returns on neck ironing machine automatically again, during in after neck, aligning solid is returned after neck ironing machine automatically, wide symmetrical along 6 placements of neck stringcourse before lapel, carry out again pressing, unplug collar collar extension, in collar, a mouthful normalized volume is returned flatly, and it is Shanghai prestige scholar that described solid is returned neck ironing machine automatically, and the solid that model is AZT_C56A is returned neck ironing machine automatically.

The not sticky adhesive lining of the collar of preparation method of the present invention, rely on fiber crops lining to lead 3 moulding of setting off collar of the black carbon lining of core completely, the mode of stitching of receiving is by hand stitched together the black carbon lining 3 of collar bottom wool fabric 4 and neck core, make collar softness flexible, yet the collar outward appearance that adopts preparation method of the present invention to make is certainly well-pressed, there is stronger third dimension and beautiful design, long-time dress and the distortion that do not crease easily, convenient washing, wear rear collar fabric elasticity restorative good, the phenomenon of not coming unstuck occurs, and make collar more meet the moulding of human body neck shin, put on rear docile, embrace neck, smoother, yet comfortable and easy to wear from well-pressed, be applicable to all kinds of crowd's dresses.

Claims

1. a preparation method for the high-grade men suit collar of full hemp liner, is characterized in that described collar comprises lapel face (1), sits top collar (2), collar bottom wool fabric (4) and the black carbon lining of neck core (3), adopts following processing step to make:

One, the black carbon lining of described neck core (3) is placed in steam box, the water vapour that passes into 110～120 ℃ steams taking-up after 12～16 hours, naturally cooling, dries;

Two, described lapel face (1), the cut-parts of seat top collar (2) are taken out after 30 minutes with humidifier humidification, naturally dry;

Three, adopt manual stitching (5) to sew up described collar bottom wool fabric (4) and the neck black carbon lining of core (3), the black carbon lining of neck core (3) collar extension is than the long 0.2cm-0.3cm of collar bottom wool fabric (4) collar extension;

Four, described collar bottom wool fabric (4) is made progress along end opening limit lapel turn-line AB of 2.4-2.5cm place picture, C point is left neck shoulder point, D point is that right neck is takeed on point, C point and D point symmetry; Described lapel turn-line AB is neck stringcourse AB, the cotton band of seam (6) on neck stringcourse AB, in the time of the cotton band of seam (6) at left neck shoulder point C point place along CA, each 3cm place of CD line by the collar bottom wool fabric 0.3-0.4cm that is critical, at a right neck shoulder D point place along DC, each 3cm place of DB line by the collar bottom wool fabric 0.3-0.4cm that is critical; Described cotton band (6) wide 0.25cm-0.35cm;

Five, lapel face (1) is sewed up with sitting top collar (2), margin to seam 0.6cm, criticizes and scalds, and along sitting neck upper edge, stitches 0.1cm open-wire line;

Six, lapel face (1) collar extension margin to seam is clipped between collar bottom wool fabric (4) and the black carbon lining of neck core (3), with floricome stitching, sew up, the black carbon lining of neck core (3) is than the long 0.2cm-0.3cm of collar bottom wool fabric (4) surrounding, in the amount of eating of the reserved 0.2-0.3cm in place, left and right lapel angle;