WO2023273172A1 - 一种基于无锑涤纶的四面弹面料的吸湿排汗染整加工工艺 - Google Patents
一种基于无锑涤纶的四面弹面料的吸湿排汗染整加工工艺 Download PDFInfo
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- WO2023273172A1 WO2023273172A1 PCT/CN2021/136457 CN2021136457W WO2023273172A1 WO 2023273172 A1 WO2023273172 A1 WO 2023273172A1 CN 2021136457 W CN2021136457 W CN 2021136457W WO 2023273172 A1 WO2023273172 A1 WO 2023273172A1
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- dyeing
- fabric
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- moisture
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 127
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 112
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- 238000007730 finishing process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 20
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 16
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 133
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 129
- 229920002334 Spandex Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 36
- 239000004759 spandex Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 36
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- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 28
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 11
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- 239000012748 slip agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 9
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- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 26
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 claims description 11
- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N citric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
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- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 37
- 239000003054 catalyst Substances 0.000 description 17
- 229910052787 antimony Inorganic materials 0.000 description 12
- WATWJIUSRGPENY-UHFFFAOYSA-N antimony atom Chemical compound [Sb] WATWJIUSRGPENY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 12
- 239000000986 disperse dye Substances 0.000 description 9
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- 238000006068 polycondensation reaction Methods 0.000 description 4
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 4
- RTAQQCXQSZGOHL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titanium Chemical compound [Ti] RTAQQCXQSZGOHL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 description 3
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- 239000010936 titanium Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229910052719 titanium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
- 230000005653 Brownian motion process Effects 0.000 description 2
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- 230000002378 acidificating effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000000654 additive Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000000996 additive effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- ADCOVFLJGNWWNZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N antimony trioxide Chemical compound O=[Sb]O[Sb]=O ADCOVFLJGNWWNZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- 238000009981 jet dyeing Methods 0.000 description 2
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- -1 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 2
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- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-M Acetate Chemical compound CC([O-])=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 241001391944 Commicarpus scandens Species 0.000 description 1
- UGACIEPFGXRWCH-UHFFFAOYSA-N [Si].[Ti] Chemical compound [Si].[Ti] UGACIEPFGXRWCH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 150000004982 aromatic amines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229910052785 arsenic Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- RQNWIZPPADIBDY-UHFFFAOYSA-N arsenic atom Chemical compound [As] RQNWIZPPADIBDY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- YHWCPXVTRSHPNY-UHFFFAOYSA-N butan-1-olate;titanium(4+) Chemical compound [Ti+4].CCCC[O-].CCCC[O-].CCCC[O-].CCCC[O-] YHWCPXVTRSHPNY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000000711 cancerogenic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 125000003178 carboxy group Chemical group [H]OC(*)=O 0.000 description 1
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- JVLRYPRBKSMEBF-UHFFFAOYSA-K diacetyloxystibanyl acetate Chemical compound [Sb+3].CC([O-])=O.CC([O-])=O.CC([O-])=O JVLRYPRBKSMEBF-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 1
- 239000003344 environmental pollutant Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 238000005886 esterification reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- KRXBVZUTZPDWQI-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethane-1,2-diol;titanium Chemical compound [Ti].OCCO KRXBVZUTZPDWQI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000007667 floating Methods 0.000 description 1
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- WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydroxyacetaldehyde Natural products OCC=O WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- WSFSSNUMVMOOMR-NJFSPNSNSA-N methanone Chemical compound O=[14CH2] WSFSSNUMVMOOMR-NJFSPNSNSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- VXUYXOFXAQZZMF-UHFFFAOYSA-N titanium(IV) isopropoxide Chemical compound CC(C)O[Ti](OC(C)C)(OC(C)C)OC(C)C VXUYXOFXAQZZMF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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Images
Classifications
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/34—Material containing ester groups
- D06P3/52—Polyesters
- D06P3/54—Polyesters using dispersed dyestuffs
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B23/00—Component parts, details, or accessories of apparatus or machines, specially adapted for the treating of textile materials, not restricted to a particular kind of apparatus, provided for in groups D06B1/00 - D06B21/00
- D06B23/20—Arrangements of apparatus for treating processing-liquids, -gases or -vapours, e.g. purification, filtration or distillation
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
- D06C7/02—Setting
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/10—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
- D06M13/184—Carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
- D06M13/207—Substituted carboxylic acids, e.g. by hydroxy or keto groups; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
- D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M15/643—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds containing silicon in the main chain
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/16—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using dispersed, e.g. acetate, dyestuffs
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B2700/00—Treating of textile materials, e.g. bleaching, dyeing, mercerising, impregnating, washing; Fulling of fabrics
- D06B2700/36—Devices or methods for dyeing, washing or bleaching not otherwise provided for
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M2101/32—Polyesters
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
- D06M2200/50—Modified hand or grip properties; Softening compositions
Definitions
- the invention belongs to the technical field of textile printing and dyeing, and in particular relates to a moisture absorption and perspiration dyeing and finishing process for a four-way stretch fabric based on antimony-free polyester.
- antimony-based catalysts At present, most polyester production enterprises at home and abroad still mainly use antimony-based catalysts.
- antimony-based catalysts antimony trioxide, antimony acetate and antimony glycol are widely used, which have a high market share and excellent performance.
- the antimony-based catalyst can greatly promote the polycondensation reaction instead of promoting the thermal degradation reaction, and is a good catalyst in the polycondensation process.
- antimony is a heavy metal that is harmful to the human body, and is associated with the toxic arsenic, which can cause damage to the liver.
- polyester with antimony-based catalysts Since the production of polyester with antimony-based catalysts is a homogeneous catalytic reaction, the catalyst will remain in the product, and the antimony removal measures adopted by most domestic chemical fiber enterprises have limited effects, so that the processed polyester fibers contain heavy metal antimony;
- the antimony and antimony catalyst deposited in the fiber will be continuously transferred to the surface of the fiber and the printing and dyeing wastewater under certain conditions.
- the bath ratio is as small as possible, which further increases the enrichment of heavy metal antimony in the waste liquid, and also increases the danger of heavy metals exceeding the standard.
- titanium-based catalysts are antimony-free catalysts that are relatively widely used at present, such as tetrabutyl titanate and isopropyl titanate in the first generation of titanium-based catalysts.
- Research results show that tetra-n-butyl titanate is used as a catalyst for esterification, the amount of the catalyst is small, the catalytic activity for polycondensation reaction is significantly higher than that of SbAc 3 and Sb 2 O 3 , and the reaction time is significantly shortened.
- the intrinsic viscosity of the obtained product increases, and the content of terminal carboxyl groups decreases.
- Antimony-free polyester four-way stretch fabric is a two-way elastic woven fabric developed based on antimony-free polyester production technology.
- the fabric is produced by weaving polyester-spandex core-spun yarn.
- the core yarn of the polyester-spandex core-spun yarn is spandex fiber, and the stretch and recovery properties of the bare spandex yarn are good, which is the main source of the elasticity of the fabric;
- the covering yarn is an antimony-free polyester product produced by an antimony-free catalyst, which has 50D and 75D , 100D, 150D and other classifications, when covered, have a certain viscosity, which also provides a small amount of elasticity for the fabric.
- the polyester-spandex core-spun yarn is in a stretched state. After the gray cloth is off the machine, the elastic recovery of the elastic yarn causes the width of the gray cloth to shrink. During the dyeing and finishing process, the internal stress of the elastic fabric is completely released after pre-treatment, the elasticity of the spandex yarn is restored, and the fabric is fully shrunk, so that the fabric has the maximum elasticity and the maximum stretchable width.
- Spandex fiber has the characteristics of easy shrinkage when heated, and its shrinkage rate in the dyeing and finishing process is not easy to control;
- the selected dyes and dyeing auxiliaries have poor compatibility, which can easily lead to differences in hue; and spandex fibers are easy to absorb a large amount of dyes when dyeing, but the valence bond stress of dyes and spandex fibers is small, and in the subsequent consumption process It is easy to fall off, resulting in poor color fastness.
- the object of the present invention is to provide a moisture-absorbing and sweat-wicking dyeing and finishing process based on antimony-free polyester four-way stretch fabric, which is based on the characteristics of antimony-free polyester four-way stretch fabric, by optimizing the pre-treatment process of the fabric , design appropriate dyeing process and post-treatment process to ensure that the processed fabric not only has good elasticity and resilience, but also makes the color fastness and other technical indicators of the fabric meet higher requirements, and can also endow the fabric with better Moisture wicking function.
- a moisture-absorbing and sweat-wicking dyeing and finishing process based on antimony-free polyester four-way stretch fabric including a pre-treatment process, a dyeing process and a post-treatment process in sequence;
- the pre-treatment process includes a tension-free pre-shrinking process and a pre-setting process;
- the tension-free pre-shrinking process includes hot water pre-shrinking treatment of the fabric gray cloth and drying of the hot water pre-shrinking fabric fabric;
- the molding process is to heat-set the fabric gray cloth after the tension-free pre-shrinking process;
- the dyeing agent used in the dyeing process includes dyeing auxiliaries and dyes; the dyeing auxiliaries include dyeing optimizer TF-256, dyeing synergist TF-257 and spandex degreasing agent TF-109A;
- the post-treatment process includes a high-temperature drying process, a soaping process, and a low-temperature setting process carried out in sequence;
- the low-temperature setting process uses a moisture-absorbing and sweat-wicking finishing agent to carry out styling treatment on the soaped fabric, and the moisture-wicking finishing agent includes a moisture-absorbing Perspiration agent HSD and citric acid;
- the soaping aids used in the soaping process include Yakesa RC and acidity slip agent VS.
- the temperature of the hot water preshrinking treatment is 70-95°C, and the temperature of the drying treatment is 120-125°C.
- the process of the dyeing process is: when the temperature of the dyeing vat of the dyeing machine reaches 40°C, the dyeing auxiliaries and dyes are sequentially injected, and then the temperature of the dyeing vat is raised to 95°C at a heating rate of 0.8°C/min, kept for 10 minutes, and then Raise the temperature to 105°C at a heating rate of 0.8°C/min, hold for 10 minutes, then raise the temperature to 130°C at a heating rate of 0.8°C/min, hold for 60 minutes, then cool down to 80°C at a cooling rate of 1.2°C/min, and then cool down to 60 °C, wash with water for 10 minutes, then lower the temperature to room temperature, and wash with water for 10 minutes.
- process conditions of the high temperature drying process are as follows:
- soaping process prescription is as follows:
- the soaping process is as follows: the soaping solution containing the soaping aid is heated up to 85° C. at a heating rate of 1° C./min, kept for soaping for 20 minutes, then cooled to normal temperature, and soaped for 10 minutes.
- process prescription and process conditions of the low temperature setting process are as follows:
- the present invention has the following advantages and effects:
- the present invention makes the gray fabric of the antimony-free polyester four-way stretch fabric subject to the action of heat and humidity through the tensionless pre-shrinking process, the internal stress of the fabric is eliminated, and the spandex fiber shrinks sharply, so that the warp direction and weft direction of the fabric gray cloth are larger simultaneously.
- the degree of shrinkage makes the fabric obtain better elasticity on all sides;
- the pre-setting process of the present invention draws the width of the fabric to the required width by means of heat setting, and keeps it substantially unchanged in subsequent processing, so that even if the fabric has a certain
- the shrinkage of the four-way stretch fabric can also maintain the flatness of the cloth surface; and the pre-setting process is marked with an appropriate positive overfeed, which can make the warp direction of the four-way stretch fabric shrink well, and offset the tension of the setting machine through a large amount of overfeed.
- the influence of the warp elasticity of the fabric makes the warp elasticity and weft elasticity of the fabric basically consistent, thereby preventing the fabric surface wrinkle caused by the sudden shrinkage of the fabric in the dyeing vat, so that the fabric surface always maintains a smooth effect;
- the dyeing process of the present invention has adopted macromolecular high-fastness disperse dyes, which can make spandex fibers only retain relatively less dyestuffs after being kept warm for an appropriate period of time in the later stage of dyeing; while polyester fibers are combined with dye molecules After obtaining better valence bond, the dye is not easy to break away from the fiber, and it is not easy to return to the spandex fiber, so that the four-way stretch fabric has better color fastness; in addition, the dyeing process of the present invention adopts dyeing optimizer TF-256 and dyeing The synergist TF-257 can not only improve the cleanliness of the cloth surface without additional washing, reduce the energy consumption caused by the cloth surface cleaning, but also provide a more stable dyeing bath than the conventional ice vinegar system.
- spandex degreasing agent TF-109A can effectively remove excess spandex degreasing agent, ensuring that the fabric after dyeing can achieve the expected effect; dyeing process uses dyeing optimizer TF-256, dyeing synergist TF-257 and spandex degreasing agent The combination of TF-109A forms a short-flow same-bath degreasing process, which reduces production links and makes production more efficient and energy-saving;
- the present invention adopts the method of first high-temperature drying, then soaping, and then low-temperature setting.
- the high-temperature drying process can ensure that the four-way stretch fabric has a better dimensional stability, and the soap
- the combination of Yakesa RC and acidity slip agent VS in the washing process can effectively remove the disperse dyes attached to the surface of spandex fibers, and at the same time wash the disperse dyes that have not completely reacted on the surface of polyester fibers or have been precipitated during high-temperature drying.
- the relatively low temperature setting after soaping can supplement the stenter heat setting of the shrunk fabric to meet the product requirements, and can reduce the decline in color fastness to ensure better fabrics Color fastness;
- the moisture absorption and perspiration agent HSD in the low temperature setting process is a polysiloxane additive, which can endow the fabric with softness, moisture absorption, antistatic and other properties under acidic conditions, and at the same time make the fabric have better Washability.
- Fig. 1 is the dyeing temperature process curve in the dyeing process of the present invention.
- Fabric gray fabric Fabric woven from polyester-spandex core-spun yarn, in which spandex yarn is the core yarn, and the covering yarn is antimony-free polyester yarn produced by antimony-free catalyst.
- the gray fabric above is sequentially subjected to a pre-treatment process, a dyeing process and a post-treatment process.
- the pre-treatment process includes a tension-free pre-shrinking process and a pre-setting process;
- the tension-free pre-shrinking process includes hot water pre-shrinking treatment of the fabric gray cloth and drying of the hot water pre-shrinking fabric fabric;
- the molding process is to heat-set the fabric gray cloth after the tension-free pre-shrinking process;
- the tension-free pre-shrinking process uses a tension-free pre-shrinking machine to pre-shrink and dry the gray fabric;
- the hot water pre-shrinking process of the tension-free pre-shrinking machine includes a pre-wetting stage, a pre-shrinking reaction stage, and a vibration pre-shrinking stage. Carry out in the pre-shrinking tank, reaction tank and vibration tank respectively, and the set temperature of each machine tank is shown in Table 1;
- the four-way stretch fabric is usually wider in the blank state, and has poor warp and weft elasticity.
- the tension between the transmission rollers of the tension-free pre-shrinker is very small, and the stress between the fibers will not be increased during the transmission process.
- the fabric passes through the heating water tanks, due to the heat and humidity, the internal stress of the fabric is eliminated, and the spandex fiber shrinks sharply, so that the warp and weft directions of the polyester four-way stretch fabric shrink to a large extent at the same time, so that the fabric obtains four-sided stretch. Good elasticity; followed by low-temperature tumble drying to make the fabric shrink further when heated, while still maintaining good surface flatness.
- the pre-setting process is to pre-set the antimony-free polyester four-way stretch fabric after pre-shrinking without tension.
- the process conditions are as follows:
- the presetting process of the present invention pulls the width of the fabric to the required width through heat setting, and basically keeps it from changing too much in subsequent processing, so that even if the fabric shrinks to a certain extent during dyeing, It can also maintain the flatness of the cloth surface; and the presetting process is marked with 20% positive overfeed, which can make the warp direction of the four-way stretch fabric shrink well, and offset the effect of the tension of the setting machine on the warp direction of the fabric through a large amount of overfeed
- the influence of elasticity makes the warp and weft elasticity of the fabric basically consistent, thereby preventing the surface wrinkle caused by the sudden shrinkage of the fabric in the dyeing tank due to high temperature, so that the fabric surface always maintains a smooth effect.
- the dyeing agent used in this dyeing process includes dyeing auxiliaries and dyes; dyeing auxiliaries include dyeing optimizer TF-256, dyeing synergist TF-257 and spandex oil remover TF-109A; dyes are disperse dyes, including disperse blue 2BLM , Disperse Cuilan S-GL, Disperse Bright Yellow SFN.
- dyeing process uses a non-guiding wheel jet dyeing machine to dye the fabric;
- the dyeing process prescription is as follows:
- g/L represents the grams of the substance quality contained in 1L dyeing liquor; specifically, 1L dyeing liquor is degreased by using 0.8g dyeing optimizer TF-256, 0.6g dyeing synergist TF-257, and 0.6g spandex Add TF-109A, add the dye corresponding to the prescribed amount, and then add water to make up to 1L.
- the process of the dyeing process is: when the temperature of the dyeing vat of the dyeing machine reaches 40°C, the dyeing auxiliaries and disperse dyes are injected sequentially, wherein the dyeing auxiliaries are injected by direct pumping, and the disperse dyes are injected in proportion Injection, and control the injection flow rate of the dye to ensure uniform injection, to prevent problems such as uneven dyeing caused by too fast injection; after injecting dyeing auxiliaries and disperse dyes, the temperature of the dyeing vat is raised to 95°C at a heating rate of 0.8°C/min, and kept for 10 minutes.
- the non-guide wheel jet dyeing machine uses the water jet to drive the fabric to rotate, which reduces the scratches on the cloth surface, and can eliminate the hemming link before gray cloth dyeing.
- the dyeing machine has a dye liquor leveling device, and has the advantages of variable load adjustment of the cloth tank, high dyeing reproducibility, and good fabric surface quality.
- the advanced automatic control device is used to realize the whole process control of dyeing and reduce the dyeing error caused by human factors.
- the dyeing process adopts a small liquor ratio design, which can reduce energy consumption to a certain extent and meet the requirements of "environmental protection, energy saving, emission reduction, and high efficiency".
- Antimony-free polyester four-way stretch fabric is composed of spandex and polyester.
- spandex fiber has a faster dye uptake rate and absorbs more dyes, which is prone to problems such as color stripes and color flowers.
- the spandex fibers can be gradually released and migrated to the polyester fibers after the spandex fibers are held for an appropriate length of time in the late stage of dyeing, leaving only relatively Less dye, and polyester fiber obtains better valence bonds after being combined with dye molecules, the dye is not easy to detach from the fiber, and it is not easy to stain the spandex fiber, so that the four-way stretch fabric has better color fastness.
- the dyeing process uses dyeing optimizer TF-256 and dyeing synergist TF-257, which can effectively reduce the dyeing rate of spandex fibers and improve level dyeing to a certain extent; moreover, dyeing optimizer TF-256 and dyeing synergist
- agent TF-257 can not only improve the cleanliness of the cloth surface without additional washing, reduce the energy consumption caused by cloth surface cleaning, but also provide a more stable pH for the dye bath than the conventional ice vinegar system value.
- the addition of spandex degreaser TF-109A is to strengthen the removal of excess spandex degreaser and ensure that the fabric surface after dyeing can achieve the expected effect.
- the post-treatment process includes a high-temperature drying process, a soaping process and a low-temperature setting process carried out in sequence;
- the process conditions of the high temperature drying process are as follows:
- the soaping process prescription is as follows:
- g/L represents the grams of the substance contained in 1L soaping liquid; specifically, 1L soaping liquid is made by using 1.6g Accord RC, 1.2g slip agent VS, and adding water to make up to 1L .
- the soaping process is as follows: heat up the soaping solution containing soaping aids to 85°C at a heating rate of 1°C/min, keep warm for soaping for 20 minutes, then cool down to room temperature, and soap for 10 minutes.
- the soaping process can be carried out in the dye vat.
- the process prescription and process conditions of the low temperature setting process are as follows:
- g/L represents the grams of the substance mass contained in 1L moisture-absorbing and sweat-wicking finishing liquid; specifically, 1L moisture-absorbing and sweat-wicking finishing liquid is prepared by using 40g of moisture-absorbing and sweat-wicking agent HSD, 1g of citric acid, and adding water to make up to 1L. become.
- the present invention adopts the method of drying at high temperature first, then soaping, and then setting the shape at low temperature. This method realizes the cleaning of the dye absorbed by the spandex fiber and the floating color on the surface of the polyester fiber, and reduces the reduction caused by the setting to the color fastness. , to ensure that the fabric obtains better color fastness.
- the high-temperature drying process can ensure that the four-way stretch fabric has a good dimensional stability, so as to ensure that the fabric surface remains flat and unchanged after the soaping process, and the warp and weft shrinkage is also in a small range;
- the combination of Acosel RC and acidity slip agent VS in the soaping process can effectively remove the disperse dyes attached to the surface of spandex fibers, and at the same time wash the disperse dyes that have not completely reacted on the surface of polyester fibers or have been precipitated due to high temperature drying , so that the product can obtain a better color fastness improvement; and the soaping process is an acid soaping process, which can not only improve the color fastness, but also avoid the traditional alkaline soaping.
- the link of neutralizing with acid saves the consumption of water vapor;
- the setting process after soaping has a lower temperature than the pre-setting temperature and high-temperature drying temperature of the previous process; this low-temperature setting process can supplement the tenter heat setting for the shrunk fabric to meet product requirements; during the setting process
- the use of large overfeed can ensure that the warp and weft elasticity of the four-way stretch fabric remains consistent;
- the low-temperature setting process uses a lower setting temperature than the high-temperature drying temperature and pre-setting temperature for setting, which can reduce the decline in color fastness and ensure that the fabric is obtained Good color fastness;
- the moisture absorption and perspiration agent HSD in the low temperature setting process is a polysiloxane additive, which can endow the fabric with softness, moisture absorption, antistatic and other properties under acidic conditions, and at the same time make the fabric have Good washability.
- the basic performance indicators of the four-way stretch fabric based on antimony-free polyester meet the requirements of OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 (Type II) on color fastness, pH value, formaldehyde, extractable heavy metal antimony and carcinogenic aromatic amines; moisture absorption
- OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 Type II
- the perspiration performance meets the requirements of GB/T 21655.1-2008 "Assessment of Moisture Absorption and Quick-drying Properties of Textiles Part 1: Individual Combination Test Method".
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Abstract
一种基于无锑涤纶的四面弹面料的染整加工工艺,包括依次进行的前处理工艺、染色工艺和后处理工艺;前处理工艺包括无张力预缩工艺和预定型工艺;染色工艺采用的染色剂包括染色助剂和染料;染色助剂包括染色优化剂TF-256、染色增效剂TF-257和氨纶去油剂TF-109A;后处理工艺包括依次进行的高温烘干工艺、皂洗工艺和低温定型工艺;其中的低温定型工艺采用吸湿排汗整理剂对皂洗后的织物进行定型处理;皂洗工艺采用的皂洗助剂包括雅可赛RC和酸度滑移剂VS。本工艺不仅可以保证加工后的织物具有较好的弹性和回弹性,而且使织物的色牢度等各项技术性指标达到较高要求,还可赋予织物较好的吸湿排汗功能。
Description
本发明属于纺织品印染技术领域,特别涉及一种基于无锑涤纶的四面弹面料的吸湿排汗染整加工工艺。
目前,国内外大部分聚酯生产企业仍以锑系催化剂为主。在锑系催化剂中,使用较多的是三氧化二锑、醋酸锑和乙二醇锑,其具有较高的市场占有率和优异的性能。锑系催化剂在聚酯缩聚反应中,能大大促进缩聚反应而不是促进热降解反应,是缩聚过程中的良好催化剂。但锑属于重金属,对人体有伤害,而且与有毒物砷伴生,会对肝脏造成损伤。由于锑类催化剂参与的聚酯生产都是均相催化反应,催化剂会滞留在产品内,而国内大部化纤企业所采用的脱锑措施效果有限,使得所加工的涤纶纤维中含有重金属锑;随着染整加工工厂对涤纶加工的进行,沉积在纤维内的锑和锑催化剂在一定的条件下会不断地转移到纤维表面和印染废水中。而目前印染行业无论是前处理还是染色,为了节约用水,都尽可能的采用小浴比,这进一步增加了重金属锑在废液中的富集,也增加了重金属超标的危险。
随着《化纤工业“十三五”发展指导意见》(以下简称《指导意见》)在“十三五”期间发展目标中指出,要“使绿色制造水平进一步提升,单位增加值能耗、用水量、主要污染物排放等达到国家约束性指标和相关标准要求,循环再利用纤维总量继续保持增长,循环再利用体系进一步完善”。同时《指导意见》也提出了“积极推广节能环保技术装备,持续推动清洁生产,深化污染治理,确保稳定达标排放,培育行业内能效领跑者企业”的主要任务。在此基础上, 聚酯催化剂将向着环保、高效、低毒和无毒的方向发展。综合考虑经济性能的情况下,钛系催化剂为目前相对应用较广泛的无锑催化剂,如第一代钛系催化剂中的钛酸四丁酯和钛酸异丙酯等。有研究结果表明,采用钛酸四正丁酯作催化剂用于酯化法,该催化剂的用量少,对缩聚反应的催化活性明显高于SbAc
3和Sb
2O
3,且反应时间明显缩短,所得产品的特性黏数增大,端羧基含量降低。近年来,新型钛系催化剂蓬勃发展,产生了第二代催化剂产品,如钛硅复合催化剂和乙二醇钛等,其具有良好的抗水解性和催化效果,并且结构简单、制备成本低,这为无锑涤纶纤维的广泛制备提供了良好的基础保证。
无锑涤纶四面弹面料正是基于无锑涤纶生产技术开发的一款双向弹力梭织面料,该面料是采用涤氨包芯纱进行织造生产的。涤氨包芯纱的芯纱为氨纶纤维,氨纶裸丝拉伸和回复性能好,是面料弹力的主要来源;包覆丝为采用无锑催化剂生产的无锑涤纶类产品,其有50D、75D、100D、150D等多个分类,在包覆时,呈一定的粘度,这也为面料提供了少量的弹力。无锑涤纶四面弹面料在织造过程中涤氨包芯纱处于拉伸状态,坯布下机后由弹力纱线的弹性恢复使坯布幅宽收缩。在染整过程中,经过前处理加工使弹力织物内在应力完全释放,氨纶丝弹性得到恢复,织物充分收缩,使织物具有最大的弹力和可拉伸的最大幅宽。
无锑涤纶的四面弹面料在染整加工工艺中存在以下技术问题:
(1)在织造过程中,为防止氨纶纤维的损伤,往往会加入大量的油剂用于保护氨纶纤维;这些存在的大量油剂会对后续的染色和定型效果产生影响;
(2)氨纶纤维具有受热易回缩的特性,其在染整工艺过程中的烫缩率不易控制;
(3)在染色时,选用的染料和染色助剂配伍性差,容易导致色相差异;且氨纶纤维染色时容易吸附大量染料,但是染料与氨纶纤维结合的价键应力较小,在后续的服用过程中容易脱落,导致色牢度差的情况发生。
(4)在对织物进行功能性后整理时,织物的色牢度容易受到影响而下降。
因此,需要研发一种基于无锑涤纶的四面弹面料的吸湿排汗染整加工工艺,以保证加工后的织物不仅具有较好的弹性和回弹性,而且使色牢度等各项技术性指标达到要求,吸湿排汗性能达到行业较高水平。
发明内容
为解决上述技术问题,本发明的目的在于提供一种基于无锑涤纶的四面弹面料的吸湿排汗染整加工工艺,其基于无锑涤纶的四面弹面料的特性,通过优化织物的前处理工艺,设计适当的染色工艺以及后处理工艺,保证加工后的织物不仅具有较好的弹性和回弹性,而且使织物的色牢度等各项技术性指标达到较高要求,还可赋予织物较好的吸湿排汗功能。
为实现上述技术目的,达到上述技术效果,本发明通过以下技术方案实现:
一种基于无锑涤纶的四面弹面料的吸湿排汗染整加工工艺,包括依次进行的前处理工艺、染色工艺和后处理工艺;
前处理工艺包括无张力预缩工艺和预定型工艺;其中的无张力预缩工艺包括对织物坯布进行热水预缩处理以及对经过热水预缩处理的织物坯布进行烘干处理;其中的预定型工艺是对经过无张力预缩工艺处理后的织物坯布进行热定型处理;
所述染色工艺采用的染色剂包括染色助剂和染料;染色助剂包括染色优化剂TF-256、染色增效剂TF-257和氨纶去油剂TF-109A;
所述后处理工艺包括依次进行的高温烘干工艺、皂洗工艺和低温定型工艺;其中的低温定型工艺采用吸湿排汗整理剂对皂洗后的织物进行定型处理,吸湿排汗整理剂包括吸湿排汗剂HSD和柠檬酸;所述皂洗工艺采用的皂洗助剂包括雅可赛RC和酸度滑移剂VS。
进一步的,在无张力预缩工艺中,热水预缩处理的温度为70-95℃,烘干处理的温度为120-125℃。
进一步的,所述预定型工艺的工艺条件如下:
温度 190℃,
车速 30-45m/min,
风机转速 1200-1500r/min。
进一步的,所述染色工艺处方如下:
进一步的,所述染色工艺的过程为:当染色机的染缸温度达到40℃时依次注入染色助剂和染料,然后染缸温度以0.8℃/min的升温速度升温至95℃,保温10min,再以0.8℃/min的升温速度升温至105℃,保温10min,然后以0.8℃/min的升温速度升温至130℃,保温60min,再以1.2℃/min的降温速度降温至80℃,然后降温至60℃,进行水洗,水洗时间为10min,再降温至常温,水洗10min。
进一步的,所述高温烘干工艺的工艺条件如下:
温度 190℃,
车速 30-45m/min,
风机转速 1200-1500r/min。
进一步的,所述皂洗工艺处方如下:
雅可赛RC 1.6-2.0g/L,
滑移剂VS 1.2-1.5g/L。
进一步的,所述皂洗工艺过程为:将含有皂洗助剂的皂洗液以1℃/min的升温速度升温至85℃,保温皂洗20min,然后降温至常温,皂洗10min。
进一步的,所述低温定型工艺的工艺处方和工艺条件如下:
本发明与现有技术相比具有下列优点和效果:
(1)本发明通过无张力预缩工艺,使无锑涤纶四面弹面料的织物坯布受到湿热作用,织物内部应力消除,氨纶纤维急剧收缩,进而使得织物坯布的经向和纬向同时发生较大程度的收缩,使面料获得四面都较好的弹性;
(2)本发明的预定型工艺通过热定型的方式将织物的门幅拉至所需宽度,并且使其在后续加工中基本保持不会有太大的变化,使织物在染色时即使有一定的收缩,也能保持布面的平整度;且该预定型工艺打上适当的的正超喂,可以使四面弹面料的经向得到很好的收缩,通过大量的超喂抵消掉定型机张力对面料经向弹力的影响,使面料的经向弹力和纬向弹力基本保持一致,进而防止 面料在染缸内因高温骤然收缩产生的布面皱印,使布面始终保持平整效果;
(3)本发明的染色工艺采用了大分子的高牢度类分散染料,可以使氨纶纤维在染色后期经过适当时长的保温后,只保留相对较少的染料;而涤纶纤维在与染料分子结合后获得较好的价键,染料不易从纤维脱离,也不易回沾氨纶纤维,从而使四面弹面料拥有较好的色牢度;此外,本发明的染色工艺采用染色优化剂TF-256和染色增效剂TF-257,既能在不经额外的水洗的前提下提高布面的洁净度,降低布面清洗所造成的能耗,也能为染浴提供一个比常规冰醋体系更稳定的pH值;氨纶去油剂TF-109A可以有效去除多余氨纶油剂,确保染色后的布面达到预期效果;染色工艺采用染色优化剂TF-256、染色增效剂TF-257和氨纶去油剂TF-109A的组合,形成短流程同浴除油工艺,减少了生产环节,使生产更加高效节能;
(4)为获得稳定的水洗或蒸汽缩率,四面弹类面料必须经过高温热定型,而高温条件会加剧布朗运动进行,使染料与涤纶纤维的结合变得不稳定,造成价键断裂,使皂洗后的色牢度下降,因此,本发明采用先高温烘干,后皂洗,再低温定型的方法,其中的高温烘干工艺可以保证四面弹面料拥有一个较好的尺寸稳定性,皂洗工艺中的雅可赛RC和酸度滑移剂VS的组合,可以在有效去除氨纶纤维表面附着的分散染料的同时,洗净涤纶纤维表面未完全反应或由于高温烘干时析出的分散染料,使产品获得较好的色牢度提升;皂洗后的相对低温定型,可以对收缩后的织物补充拉幅热定型,满足产品要求,又能减少染色牢度的下降,保证面料获得较好的色牢度;低温定型工艺中的吸湿排汗剂HSD为聚硅氧烷类助剂,在酸性条件下可以赋予织物柔软、吸湿排汗、抗静电等多种性能,同时使织物具有较好的耐洗性能。
图1为本发明的染色工艺中的染色温度工艺曲线。
下面结合附图对本发明的较佳实施例进行详细阐述,以使本发明的优点和特征能更易于被本领域技术人员理解,从而对本发明的保护范围做出更为清楚明确的界定。
实施例
织物坯布:采用涤氨包芯纱织造而成的面料,其中的氨纶丝为芯纱,包覆丝为采用无锑催化剂生产的无锑涤纶丝。
将上述织物坯布依次经过前处理工艺、染色工艺和后处理工艺。
(1)前处理工艺
前处理工艺包括无张力预缩工艺和预定型工艺;其中的无张力预缩工艺包括对织物坯布进行热水预缩处理以及对经过热水预缩处理的织物坯布进行烘干处理;其中的预定型工艺是对经过无张力预缩工艺处理后的织物坯布进行热定型处理;
该无张力预缩工艺采用无张力预缩机对织物坯布进行预缩处理和烘干处理;无张力预缩机的热水预缩过程包括预湿阶段、预缩反应阶段、震动预缩阶段,分别在预缩槽、反应槽以及震动槽中进行,各个机槽的设定温度如表1所示;
表1无张力预缩机设定温度
机槽 | 温度/℃ |
预湿槽 | 70 |
反应槽 | 80 |
#1震动槽 | 90 |
#2震动槽 | 95 |
#3震动槽 | 95 |
#4震动槽 | 95 |
#5震动槽 | 90 |
#6震动槽 | 80 |
#1-1烘干 | 120 |
#1-2烘干 | 125 |
#1-3烘干 | 125 |
#1-4烘干 | 125 |
#1-5烘干 | 125 |
#2烘干 | 120 |
由于在织造过程中,纤维一直处于拉伸状态,因此四面弹面料在白坯状态时门幅通常较宽,且经纬向弹力均较差。无张力预缩机各传动辊间张力极少,在传动过程中不会增加纤维间的应力。同时,织物在通过各加热水槽时,由于受到湿热作用,织物内部应力消除,氨纶纤维急剧收缩,使得涤纶四面弹面料的经向和纬向同时发生较大程度的收缩,从而使面料获得四面都好的弹性;随后经低温滚筒烘干,使面料受热进一步收缩的同时,仍然可以保持较好的布面平整性。
预定型工艺是对经过无张力预缩后的无锑涤纶四面弹面料进行预定型加工,其工艺条件如下:
本发明的预定型工艺通过热定型的方式将织物的门幅拉至所需宽度,并且使其在后续加工中基本保持不会有太大的变化,使织物在染色时即使有一定的 收缩,也能保持布面的平整度;且该预定型工艺打上20%的正超喂,可以使四面弹面料的经向得到很好的收缩,通过大量的超喂抵消掉定型机张力对面料经向弹力的影响,使面料的经向弹力和纬向弹力基本保持一致,进而防止面料在染缸内因高温骤然收缩产生的布面皱印,使布面始终保持平整效果。
(2)染色工艺
该染色工艺采用的染色剂包括染色助剂和染料;染色助剂包括染色优化剂TF-256、染色增效剂TF-257和氨纶去油剂TF-109A;染料为分散染料,包括分散蓝2BLM、分散翠兰S-GL、分散嫩黄SFN。该染色工艺利用无导布轮喷射染色机对面料进行染色;
该染色工艺处方如下:
其中的g/L表示1L染液中含有的物质质量的克数;具体的,1L染液是利用0.8g染色优化剂TF-256、0.6g染色增效剂TF-257、0.6g氨纶去油剂TF-109A,再加对应处方量的染料,然后加水定容至1L制成。
如图1所示,该染色工艺的过程为:当染色机的染缸温度达到40℃时依次注入染色助剂和分散染料,其中的染色助剂采用直抽方法注入,分散染料采用 比例注料方式注入,并控制染料注入流速保证均匀注入,防止注料过快产生染色不匀等问题;注入染色助剂和分散染料后,染缸温度以0.8℃/min的升温速度升温至95℃,保温10min,再以0.8℃/min的升温速度升温至105℃,保温10min,然后以0.8℃/min的升温速度升温至130℃,保温60min,再以1.2℃/min的降温速度降温至80℃,对样,然后降温至60℃,进行水洗,水洗时间为10min,再降温至常温,水洗10min。
相对于传统的高温高压溢流染色机,无导布轮喷射染色机采用水流喷射方式带动织物转动,减少布面擦伤产生,可以免去坯布染色前的缝边环节。同时该染色机具有染液匀染装置,且具有布槽变载调节等优点,染色重现性高,织物表面质量好。另外,采用先进的自动化控制装置,实现了染色的全流程控制,减少人为因素造成的染色误差。染色工艺采用小浴比设计,在一定程度上减少能源的消耗,符合“环保、节能、减排、高效”的要求。
无锑涤纶四面弹面料是由氨纶和涤纶两种组分组成,其中的氨纶纤维的染料上染速率较快,且吸附染料较多,容易出现色条、色花等问题。本发明通过采用大分子高牢度染料并适当延长保温时间至60分钟,可以使氨纶纤维在染色后期经过适当时长的保温后,吸附的大部分染料逐步释放并移染至涤纶纤维,只保留相对较少的染料,而涤纶纤维在与染料分子结合后获得较好的价键,染料不易从纤维脱离,也不易回沾氨纶纤维,从而使四面弹面料拥有较好的色牢度。
该染色工艺采用染色优化剂TF-256和染色增效剂TF-257,可以在一定程度上有效降低氨纶纤维的上染率,提高匀染性;而且,染色优化剂TF-256和染色增效剂TF-257的组合既能在不经额外的水洗的前提下提高布面的洁净度,降低布面清洗所造成的能耗,也能为染浴提供一个比常规冰醋体系更稳定的pH值。 氨纶去油剂TF-109A的添加是为了强化对多余氨纶油剂的去除,确保染色后布面达到预期效果。
(3)后处理工艺
该后处理工艺包括依次进行的高温烘干工艺、皂洗工艺和低温定型工艺;
高温烘干工艺的工艺条件如下:
皂洗工艺处方如下:
雅可赛RC 1.6g/L,
滑移剂VS 1.2g/L,
浴比 1:10。
其中的g/L表示1L皂洗液中含有的物质质量的克数;具体的,1L皂洗液是利用1.6g雅可赛RC、1.2g滑移剂VS,再加水定容至1L制成。
皂洗工艺过程为:将含有皂洗助剂的皂洗液以1℃/min的升温速度升温至85℃,保温皂洗20min,然后降温至常温,皂洗10min。该皂洗过程可于染缸中进行。
低温定型工艺的工艺处方和工艺条件如下:
其中的g/L表示1L吸湿排汗整理液中含有的物质质量的克数;具体的,1L吸湿排汗整理液是利用40g吸湿排汗剂HSD、1g柠檬酸,再加水定容至1L制成。
为获得稳定的水洗或蒸汽缩率,四面弹类面料必须经过高温热定型,而高温条件会加剧布朗运动进行,使染料与涤纶纤维的结合变得不稳定,造成价键断裂,使皂洗后的色牢度又下降。因此,本发明采用先高温烘干,后皂洗,再低温定型的方法,该方法实现了对氨纶纤维吸附染料和涤纶纤维表面浮色的净洗,并减少了定型对色牢度造成的降低,保证该面料获得较好的色牢度。
具体的,其中的高温烘干工艺可以保证四面弹面料拥有一个较好的尺寸稳定性,以保证在皂洗环节后布面保持平整不变,经纬向的收缩也在一个较小的范围;
皂洗工艺中的雅可赛RC和酸度滑移剂VS的组合,可以在有效去除氨纶纤维表面附着的分散染料的同时,洗净涤纶纤维表面未完全反应或由于高温烘干时析出的分散染料,使产品获得较好的色牢度提升;且该皂洗工艺为酸性皂洗工艺,既可以提高色牢度,又可以免去传统碱性皂洗后布面由于pH值偏高而还需用酸中和的环节,节约了水汽的消耗;
皂洗后进行的定型工艺,其温度相对于前道工序的预定型温度和高温烘干温度较低;该低温定型工艺可以对收缩后的织物补充拉幅热定型,满足产品要求;定型过程中采用大超喂,可以确保四面弹面料经纬向的弹力保持一致;该低温定型工艺采用相对于高温烘干温度以及预定型温度较低的定型温度进行定型可以减少染色牢度的下降,保证面料获得较好的色牢度;低温定型工艺中的吸湿排汗剂HSD为聚硅氧烷类助剂,在酸性条件下可以赋予织物柔软、吸湿排汗、抗静电等多种性能,同时使织物具有较好的耐洗性能。
效果例
对经过上述染整工艺处理后的无锑涤纶四面弹面料进行性能测试;结果如表2所示。
表2基于无锑涤纶的四面弹面料的性能测试结果
经检测,该基于无锑涤纶的四面弹面料的基本性能指标符合OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100(II类)中关于色牢度、pH值、甲醛、可萃取重金属锑和致癌芳香胺部分的要求;吸湿排汗性能符合GB/T 21655.1-2008《纺织品吸湿速干性的评定第1部分:单项组合试验法》的要求。
以上所述仅为本发明的实施例,并非因此限制本发明的专利范围,凡是利用本发明说明书及附图内容所作的等效结构或等效流程变换,或直接或间接运用在其他相关的技术领域,均同理包括在本发明的专利保护范围内。
Claims (9)
- 一种基于无锑涤纶的四面弹面料的吸湿排汗染整加工工艺,其特征在于:该染整加工工艺包括依次进行的前处理工艺、染色工艺和后处理工艺;前处理工艺包括无张力预缩工艺和预定型工艺;其中的无张力预缩工艺包括对织物坯布进行热水预缩处理以及对经过热水预缩处理的织物坯布进行烘干处理;其中的预定型工艺是对经过无张力预缩工艺处理后的织物坯布进行热定型处理;所述染色工艺采用的染色剂包括染色助剂和染料;染色助剂包括染色优化剂TF-256、染色增效剂TF-257和氨纶去油剂TF-109A;所述后处理工艺包括依次进行的高温烘干工艺、皂洗工艺和低温定型工艺;其中的低温定型工艺采用吸湿排汗整理剂对皂洗后的织物进行定型处理,吸湿排汗整理剂包括吸湿排汗剂HSD和柠檬酸;所述皂洗工艺采用的皂洗助剂包括雅可赛RC和酸度滑移剂VS。
- 根据权利要求1所述的一种基于无锑涤纶的四面弹面料的吸湿排汗染整加工工艺,其特征在于:无张力预缩工艺中,热水预缩处理的温度为70-95℃,烘干处理的温度为120-125℃。
- 根据权利要求1所述的一种基于无锑涤纶的四面弹面料的吸湿排汗染整加工工艺,其特征在于:所述预定型工艺的工艺条件如下:温度 190℃,车速 30-45m/min,风机转速 1200-1500r/min。
- 根据权利要求4所述的一种基于无锑涤纶的四面弹面料的吸湿排汗染整加工工艺,其特征在于:所述染色工艺的过程为:当染色机的染缸温度达到40℃时依次注入染色助剂和染料,然后染缸温度以0.8℃/min的升温速度升温至95℃,保温10min,再以0.8℃/min的升温速度升温至105℃,保温10min,然后以0.8℃/min的升温速度升温至130℃,保温60min,再以1.2℃/min的降温速度降温至80℃,然后降温至60℃,进行水洗,水洗时间为10min,再降温至常温,水洗10min。
- 根据权利要求1所述的一种基于无锑涤纶的四面弹面料的吸湿排汗染整加工工艺,其特征在于:所述高温烘干工艺的工艺条件如下:温度 190℃,车速 30-45m/min,风机转速 1200-1500r/min。
- 根据权利要求1所述的一种基于无锑涤纶的四面弹面料的吸湿排汗染整加工工艺,其特征在于:所述皂洗工艺处方如下:雅可赛RC 1.6-2.0g/L,滑移剂VS 1.2-1.5g/L。
- 根据权利要求7所述的一种基于无锑涤纶的四面弹面料的吸湿排汗染整加工工艺,其特征在于:所述皂洗工艺过程为:将含有皂洗助剂的皂洗液以1℃ /min的升温速度升温至85℃,保温皂洗20min,然后降温至常温,皂洗10min。
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