WO2021254258A1 - 针织面料及其用途 - Google Patents

针织面料及其用途 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021254258A1
WO2021254258A1 PCT/CN2021/099572 CN2021099572W WO2021254258A1 WO 2021254258 A1 WO2021254258 A1 WO 2021254258A1 CN 2021099572 W CN2021099572 W CN 2021099572W WO 2021254258 A1 WO2021254258 A1 WO 2021254258A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
knitted fabric
fabric
yarn
elastic yarn
pet
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PCT/CN2021/099572
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
夏红霞
王强
郭超
景红川
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东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司
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Application filed by 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 filed Critical 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司
Priority to KR1020227044927A priority Critical patent/KR20230024292A/ko
Priority to CN202180042341.3A priority patent/CN115803488B/zh
Priority to JP2022577096A priority patent/JP2023532196A/ja
Priority to US18/009,143 priority patent/US20230250566A1/en
Priority to CA3187176A priority patent/CA3187176A1/en
Publication of WO2021254258A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021254258A1/zh

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02—Cotton
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01—Surface features
    • D10B2403/011—Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0114—Dissimilar front and back faces with one or more yarns appearing predominantly on one face, e.g. plated or paralleled yarns

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a knitted fabric and its use, in particular to a knitted fabric with superior dimensional stability and its use.
  • knitted fabric is made of loops and loops, and it is easy to move between the loops, so it has good elasticity and extensibility, but the dimensional stability is relatively poor, easy to fall apart, and easy to deform.
  • patent document CN203475075U discloses a dimensionally stable knitted fabric.
  • the bonding fiber and the main yarn material are interwoven by adding yarn or adding yarn jacquard. After the knitting is completed, the surface layer of the bonding fiber is melted in the process of heat setting. The internal melting node is naturally formed.
  • the contact point between the yarn and the yarn is not easy to slip, which greatly improves the dimensional stability of the knitted fabric, and the physical style of the fabric is also more inclined Woven fabrics, but the use of bonding fibers will not only increase production costs, but also cumbersome control of melting conditions during heat setting; in addition, even if the melting nodes are hidden in the fabric, they will melt due to stretching and other factors during the wearing process. The node will still be exposed to contact with the skin, and wearing comfort will be affected.
  • patent document CN204325675U discloses a polyester-cotton interwoven weft-knitting uneven woven fabric.
  • the front side is composed of a fat yarn area and a ground yarn area
  • the reverse side is entirely composed of a ground yarn area.
  • the ground yarn area is made of high shrinkage polyester.
  • the ground yarn loop area composed of filaments, because the high shrinkage polyester filament on the reverse side shrinks by heat, the density of the fabric is greatly increased, but the loop slip and shrink make the high extensibility of the knitted fabric disappear, and the extensibility is even lower than Generally, the wearing comfort of fabrics is greatly affected.
  • Patent Document JP-A-Sho 58-81661 discloses a warp-knitted fabric with a highly stretchable woven style.
  • the warp-knitted fabric contains more than 5% by weight of polyurethane elastic fiber. It is formed by two or more warp yarns that are not looped between adjacent stitch rows and are continuously inserted in the longitudinal direction.
  • the surface of the warp-knitted fabric appears to be interwoven by warp and weft yarns. Because of the warp-knitted structure of the woven style, the dimensional stability is good, but in fact, even if a special warp-knitting process is used, the tightness of the fabric is still insufficient, and the process is complicated and the cost is high.
  • the purpose of the present invention is to provide a knitted fabric with simple process, low production cost, dimensional stability and appearance of woven fabric, and excellent elasticity, suitable for making jackets, trousers or skirts.
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention is a single jersey knitted fabric including elastic yarn A and polyurethane fiber, and the loop surface includes loops that are separately fed and formed by the elastic yarn A and the polyurethane fiber.
  • the obtained knitted fabric since the elastic yarn A and the polyurethane fiber are fed separately and form a loop together on the loop surface, the obtained knitted fabric has tightly arranged loops and is not easily deformed, has an appearance similar to a woven fabric, has good elasticity, and greatly improves wearing comfort. No special processing conditions are required, the process is simple and easy, and the cost is low. It is especially suitable for making coats, trousers or skirts.
  • the present invention adopts a single-sided structure in which the coils and the coil string sleeves are more connected.
  • the molecular structure of polyurethane fiber is a chain-like, soft and extensible polyurethane. By connecting with hard segments, it has higher elasticity and better elastic recovery. A certain shrinkage during post-processing can tighten the loops and give the knitted fabric a woven style.
  • the polyurethane fiber (PU for short) in the present invention refers to bare spandex yarn.
  • the elastic yarn A is a non-urethane elastic yarn, preferably a non-urethane yarn with a crimp ratio (CR value) of 30 to 70%. Under heated conditions, such yarns have high shrinkage, and after high-temperature setting, shrinking can make the loops more compact. In the present invention, it is considered that these two types are fed separately to form a loop, and the elastic yarn A is used to make up the gap in the loop, so that the cloth surface is densified and the dimensional stability of the fabric is improved.
  • the non-elastic yarn and the polyurethane fiber are used to form a loop together, the non-elastic yarn will excessively restrain the shrinkage of the polyurethane fiber, making the fabric too rigid and insufficiently tight.
  • polyurethane fiber is not used and only elastic yarn A is formed into loops, the shrinkage during processing after dyeing is relatively small, the loop arrangement is loose, and it is easy to move, which will affect the rigidity and stability of the fabric, and it will also affect the rigidity and stability of the fabric.
  • the bubbling problem is prone to occur in the process; if the density is increased to tighten the coil, the bubbling problem will be more serious.
  • the yarns on the loop surface of the single jersey structure are generally presented in the state of loops. If the ratio of the above two yarns forming a loop together is less than 50%, the loops cannot be arranged tightly, which may affect the rigidity and stability of the fabric. Therefore, in the present invention, it is preferable that the ratio of the above-mentioned two kinds of yarns forming a loop on the loop surface is 50% or more, and more preferably 80% or more.
  • the ratio of common loop formation refers to the proportion of the number of loops formed by the elastic yarn A and the polyurethane fiber in a tissue cycle to all the loops of the entire tissue cycle.
  • the area of elastic yarn A and polyurethane fiber and S1 and the total area S2 of loops in one tissue cycle satisfy the following formula: 10 ⁇ (S1/S2) *100 ⁇ 35.
  • An organization cycle here refers to a single organization unit that repeats in the fabric along the transverse direction.
  • the numerical value of the above relational expression reflects the shrinkage of elastic yarn A and polyurethane fiber. If (S1/S2)*100 is less than 10, the fabric may feel soft and have insufficient rigidity. If (S1/S2)*100 is greater than 35, the feel of the fabric tends to become hard. In the present invention, it is more preferable to satisfy the following relational expression 15 ⁇ (S1/S2)*100 ⁇ 30.
  • the type of elastic yarn A is not particularly limited, and it may be a single-component elastic fiber or a two-component composite elastic fiber.
  • the elastic yarn A is preferably polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT), polybutylene terephthalate (PBT), polyethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate Polyester composite fiber (PTT/PET), polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate composite fiber (PBT/PET), and two types of polyterephthalate with poor viscosity
  • PTT/PET polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate composite fiber
  • the form is not particularly limited, and it may be a fully drawn yarn FDY or a false twisted yarn DTY. These fibers have higher crimping properties, better rigidity, and the resulting fabrics are firmer and more stable.
  • the ratio of the total fineness of the elastic yarn A and the polyurethane fiber forming a loop together is 0.5-2.5, more preferably 0.7-2.2, so as to ensure the stiffness and elasticity of the fabric. If the ratio between the two total deniers is less than 0.5, the polyurethane fiber may be exposed on the reverse side of the fabric and the fabric may become shiny. If the ratio of the two total deniers is higher than 2.5, the polyurethane fiber may break during the knitting process and the knitting cannot be performed.
  • elastic yarn A When elastic yarn A is compounded by elastic yarns of different deniers, first calculate the average denier of elastic yarn A, that is, first calculate the average denier of all the yarns that make up elastic yarn A, and then calculate the elastic yarn The ratio between the average fineness of the thread A and the fineness of the polyurethane fiber.
  • elastic yarn A is compounded by elastic yarn a1 and elastic yarn a2 in a ratio of 2:1
  • the total fineness of elastic yarn a1 is 150 denier (abbreviated as D)
  • the total fineness of elastic yarn a2 is 75D
  • the ratio between the loop lengths of the elastic yarn A and the polyurethane fiber that form a loop is also more important.
  • the ratio of the two thread lengths is less than or equal to 2.3, the following two problems may occur: (1) The knitting needle cannot feed the yarn smoothly and form a loop; (2) The polyurethane fiber protrudes on the surface of the fabric to form Defects, resulting in the lack of elasticity of the fabric. And if the ratio of the two is greater than or equal to 2.8, the following two problems may occur: (1) Similarly, the knitting needle cannot smoothly feed the yarn and form a loop; (2) The loop arrangement is relatively loose and easy to occur.
  • the fabric has insufficient rigidity, and the elastic yarn A protrudes on the surface of the fabric, forming defects and affecting the appearance of the fabric. Therefore, the ratio of the line lengths of the two is preferably greater than 2.3 and less than 2.8, and more preferably 2.4 to 2.7.
  • the fabric of the present invention preferably contains other yarns (yarn 3) in addition to the elastic yarn A and the polyurethane fiber.
  • the types of other yarns are not particularly limited. Considering that both intra- and intermolecular hydrogen bonds of cellulose fibers can form hydrogen bonds, especially intra-molecular hydrogen bonds, the glycosidic bonds cannot rotate and the rigidity is greatly increased.
  • the cellulosic fibers here include natural fibers and regenerated cellulose fibers, among which natural fibers can be exemplified by cotton, hemp, etc., and regenerated cellulose fibers can be exemplified by viscose, tencel and the like.
  • PET polyethylene terephthalate
  • PET has good mechanical properties, excellent impact stiffness and good rigidity.
  • the form of the other yarn is not particularly limited, and may be a filament multifilament, a spun yarn (pure spun spun yarn or blended spun yarn), or a long and short composite yarn. If the yarn is too thin, the stiff feel has a downward trend; if the yarn is too thick, the appearance is rough, and the wearing comfort has a downward trend. Therefore, when used as a filament multifilament or a long-short composite yarn, its fineness is preferably 100-200D; when used as a spun yarn, its count is preferably 50-21 British counts.
  • the structure used in the present invention is not particularly limited, and is preferably a pique structure, a modified pique structure, a modified pique twill, a modified twill structure, and the like.
  • the change of the bead weave is compounded by loop formation, tuck, and float lines.
  • the transverse and longitudinal elongation rates of the knitted fabric of the present invention are both 10%-60%, and the elongation recovery rate is both above 80%, so as to ensure the wearing comfort of the fabric.
  • the ventilation rate of the knitted fabric of the present invention is 3.0-10.0 cm 3 /cm 2 ⁇ s to ensure the warmth and air permeability of the fabric.
  • the bending stiffness of the knitted fabric of the present invention is 0.20 to 0.35 gf.cm 2 /cm, which has a superior woven fabric style.
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention preferably has a grammage of 150-400 g/m 2 , and more preferably 200-350 g/m 2 . Especially suitable for pants, jackets or skirts, etc.
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention can be prepared by the following method: on a 22G ⁇ 36G single-sided circular knitting machine, at least elastic yarn A and polyurethane fiber are selected for weaving, and the elastic yarn A and polyurethane fiber are fed simultaneously and formed into a loop. More than 50% of the loops are formed by these two kinds of yarns to obtain a knitted grey fabric, and then the grey fabric is pre-treated, dyed, and post-finished to obtain a knitted product imitating a woven fabric.
  • the pre-treatment, dyeing, and post-finishing processing conditions are conventional conditions, and the pre-treatment and dyeing can be performed in the same bath or separately.
  • suitable agents can be added to each project as needed, such as scouring agent, bleaching agent, etc. can be added during pretreatment, and hydrophilic agent, antistatic agent, neutralizing acid, softener, hydrophilic softener, etc. can be added for post-finishing. . It is preferable to add an antistatic agent during dyeing or finishing processing, so as not to generate static electricity and prevent dust when the product is used.
  • the scouring agent, hydrophilic agent, etc. used in the present invention can be directly used commercially available products, and the dosage of each agent is preferably 0.1-50 g/L.
  • the calculation method of photo 1 calculates X2, X3, X4, X5, X6, X7, X8, X9, X10 and Y2, Y3, Y4, Y5, Y6, Y7, Y8, Y9, Y10, take the average value of X1 ⁇ X10 as the total area S2 of the present invention, take Y1 ⁇ The average value of Y10 is used as the area and S1 of the present invention.
  • PBT/PET DTY (CR value 45%), 105D PU filament and 30 British counts of pure cotton spun yarn for weaving.
  • PBT/PET DTY and PU filament are fed at the same time, and the structure is beads. Ground texture, the grey fabric is fully looped on the reverse side, and then the grey fabric is pre-treated (scouring agent 1g/L), intermediate setting, dyeing (disperse dye dyeing 130°C*30min, reactive dye dyeing 60°C*60min), post-finishing processing (Antistatic agent 1g/L, hydrophilic softener 30g/l) to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the properties of the fabric obtained are shown in Table 1.
  • the 30-inch pure cotton spun yarn was replaced with 30-inch PET spun yarn, and the rest were the same as in Example 1, to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the properties of the fabric obtained are shown in Table 1.
  • the 105D PU filament was replaced with 50D PU filament, and the rest were the same as in Example 1, to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the properties of the fabric obtained are shown in Table 2.
  • Jackets, trousers or skirts made from the knitted fabrics of Examples 1-18.
  • PU filaments are not used, and the rest are the same as in Example 1, to obtain a knitted fabric.
  • the properties of the fabric obtained are shown in Table 2.
  • Example 1 From Example 1 and Example 2, under the same conditions, a knitted fabric with a joint looping ratio of PBT/PET and PU of 100% is compared with a knitted fabric with a joint looping ratio of PBT/PET and PU of 50%.
  • the appearance effect of the imitation woven fabric of the two is the same.
  • the bending stiffness and elastic recovery of the former are better than the latter, and the ventilation is lower than the latter. That is to say, the former is closer to the machine than the latter in terms of appearance and performance. Woven fabrics.
  • Example 2 It can be seen from Example 1 and Example 9 that under the same conditions, the knitted fabric using PBT/PET DTY as elastic yarn A is compared with the knitted fabric using polyamide high elastic DTY as elastic yarn A.
  • the appearance of the imitation woven fabric is quite similar. The former is less elastic than the latter, but the bending stiffness is greater than the latter, and the ventilation is much lower than the latter. Generally speaking, the former is closer to the machine than the latter in terms of appearance and performance. Woven fabrics.
  • Example 3 It can be seen from Example 1 and Example 11 that under the same conditions, the knitted fabric of yarn 3 using pure cotton spun yarn is compared with the knitted fabric of yarn 3 using pure polyester spun yarn.
  • the appearance effect of the woven fabric is equivalent, but the ventilation rate of the former is lower than that of the latter, and it has a more natural cotton appearance, and the overall effect is better than the latter.
  • Example 1 It can be seen from Example 1 and Example 14 that under the same conditions, the knitted fabric using the pique weave is compared with the knitted fabric using the weft plain stitch in terms of imitating woven appearance, bending stiffness and elastic recovery. The former is much better than the latter.
  • Example 1 It can be seen from Example 1 and Example 15 that under the same conditions, a knitted fabric with a total fineness ratio of PBT/PET and PU of 1.4 is compared with a knitted fabric with a total fineness ratio of PBT/PET and PU of 3.0.
  • the bending rigidity is larger than the latter, the air flow rate is much lower than the latter, and the woven appearance effect is better than the latter, that is to say, the former is far superior to the latter in terms of appearance and performance.
  • Example 7 It can be seen from Example 7 and Example 16, that under the same conditions, a knitted fabric with (S1/S2)*100 being 29 is compared with a knitted fabric with (S1/S2)*100 being 37.
  • the latter is larger, the ventilation rate is much lower than the latter, and the appearance effect of imitating woven is better than the latter, that is to say, the former is far superior to the latter in terms of appearance and performance.
  • Example 7 It can be seen from Example 7 and Example 17 that under the same conditions, a knitted fabric with (S1/S2)*100 being 29 is compared with a knitted fabric with (S1/S2)*100 being 1.
  • the latter is large, the appearance of the imitation woven is better than the latter, and the ventilation is much lower than the latter. That is to say, the former is far superior to the latter in terms of appearance and performance.
  • Example 8 It can be seen from Example 8 and Example 18 that under the same conditions, a knitted fabric with a joint looping ratio of PBT/PET and PU of 67% is compared with a knitted fabric with a joint looping ratio of PBT/PET and PU of 33%.
  • the appearance of the imitation woven appearance of the two is equivalent, the bending stiffness and elastic recovery of the former are better than the latter, and the ventilation is lower than the latter. That is to say, the former is closer to the woven than the latter in terms of appearance and performance.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

本发明公开了一种针织面料及其用途。该针织面料为包括弹性纱线A以及聚氨酯纤维的单面针织物，且线圈面上包括有由弹性纱线A和聚氨酯纤维分别喂入并共同形成的线圈。本发明的针织面料外观和性能均接近机织物，具有良好的弹性，特别适合用于制作外套、裤装或裙装等。

Description

针织面料及其用途 技术领域
本发明涉及一种针织面料及其用途，具体涉及一种具有优越尺寸稳定性的针织面料及其用途。
背景技术
众所周知，针织面料由线圈与线圈串套而成，线圈之间容易移动，所以具有良好的弹性和延伸性，但是尺寸稳定性相对较差，易脱散，容易变形。
目前，市面上大部分的针织面料都是通过采用双面组织或者双层结构来提高尺寸稳定性的。如专利文献CN203475075U中公开了一种尺寸稳定型针织物，粘结纤维与主纱原料采用添纱或添纱提花方式交织，编织完成后在热定型的工序中使粘结纤维表层熔融，在织物内部自然形成熔融节点，当针织物收到外力拉伸时纱线与纱线之间的接触点不易产生滑移，大幅度提高了针织面料的尺寸稳定性，而且面料的物理风格也更倾向于机织面料，但是粘结纤维的使用不但会增加生产成本，而且热定型时熔融条件的控制也比较繁琐；另外，即便是熔融节点隐藏在织物中间，穿着过程中由于拉伸等因素的影响熔融节点还是会露出接触到皮肤，穿着舒适性受到影响。
再如，专利文献CN204325675U中公开了一种涤棉交织纬编凹凸仿机织面料，正面由胖花纱区域和地纱区域构成，反面全部由地纱区域构成，地纱区域为由高收缩涤纶长丝构成的地纱线圈区域，由于反面的高 收缩涤纶长丝遇热缩紧，使得织物的密度大大提高，但是线圈滑移缩紧使得针织物的高延伸性消失，延伸性甚至低于一般织物，穿着舒适性受到很大影响。
又如，专利文献特开昭58－81661中公开了一种高伸缩性机织风格的经编面料。该经编面料中含有5重量％以上的聚氨酯弹性纤维，由2根以上的经纱在相邻线圈列之间不成圈且在纵向上连续***而形成，该经编面料的表面呈现由经纬纱交织的机织风格，里面由于具有经编结构尺寸稳定性好，但是，事实上即便是采用了特殊的经编工艺，面料的紧密性仍有不足，而且工艺复杂，成本较高。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种工艺简单，生产成本低廉，既具有机织物的尺寸稳定性及外观，又具有优异弹性的针织面料，适合用于制作外套、裤装或裙装等。
本发明的技术解决方案如下：
本发明的针织面料为包括弹性纱线A以及聚氨酯纤维的单面针织物，且线圈面上包括有由弹性纱线A和聚氨酯纤维分别喂入并共同形成的线圈。
本发明中由于弹性纱线A和聚氨酯纤维分别喂入后在线圈面上共同成圈，所得针织面料线圈排列紧密不易变形，外观类似机织物，具有良好的弹性，穿着舒适性得到极大提高，无需特别的加工条件，工艺简单易行，成本低廉，特别适合用于制作外套、裤装或裙装等。
具体实施方式
考虑到面料的紧凑性，本发明采用线圈与线圈串套连接比较多的单面组织。
聚氨酯纤维的分子结构为一个像链状的、柔软及可伸长性的聚氨基甲酸酯，通过与硬链段连接在一起，具有了较高的弹性和较好的弹性回复性，在染色后加工过程中发生一定收缩可以收紧线圈，赋予针织面料仿机织风格。本发明中的聚氨酯纤维(简称PU)是指氨纶裸丝。而弹性纱线A为非聚氨酯类弹性纱线，优选为卷缩率(CR值)30～70％的非聚氨酯类纱线。在受热条件下，这样的纱线具有较高的收缩性，在高温定型后经过收缩可以使线圈排列更加紧密。本发明中考虑将这两种分别喂入共同成圈，利用弹性纱线A弥补线圈中的空隙，使得布面致密化，提高面料的尺寸稳定性。
本发明中，如果采用非弹性纱线与聚氨酯纤维共同成圈，非弹性纱线会过度牵制聚氨酯纤维的收缩，使得面料过于呆板，紧密感不够。另外，如果不采用聚氨酯纤维仅仅是由弹性纱线A成圈的话，由于染色后加工过程中的收缩相对小，线圈排列较松，容易移动，从而会影响面料的刚性和稳定性，而且在穿着过程中容易出现鼓泡的问题；如果提高密度使线圈收紧，鼓泡问题会更加严重。
考虑到单面组织的线圈面上纱线一般以线圈的状态呈现。如果上述两种纱线共同成圈的比例低于50％的话，线圈不能很好地紧密排列，有可能会影响面料的刚性和稳定性。因此，本发明中优选线圈面上述两种纱线共同成圈的比例在50％以上，更优选在80％以上。共同成圈的比例是指一个组织循环中弹性纱线A与聚氨酯纤维共同成圈路数占整个组织 循环中所有的成圈路数的比例。
作为优选，本发明针织面料的经向截面上的一个组织循环中，弹性纱线A以及聚氨酯纤维的面积和S1与一个组织循环中线圈的总面积S2满足如下公式：10≦(S1/S2)*100≦35。这里的一个组织循环指沿着横向方向在面料中重复出现的单个组织单元。上述关系式的数值大小体现了弹性纱线A和聚氨酯纤维收缩的大小。如果(S1/S2)*100小于10的话，有可能出现面料的手感偏软，刚性不足的问题。如果(S1/S2)*100大于35的话，面料的手感有***的趋势。本发明中，更优选满足如下关系式15≦(S1/S2)*100≦30。
本发明中，弹性纱线A的种类没有特别限定，可以是单组分弹性纤维，也可以是双组分复合型弹性纤维等。本发明中，弹性纱线A优选为聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯(PTT)、聚对苯二甲酸丁二醇酯(PBT)、聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯和聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯的复合纤维(PTT/PET)、聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯和聚对苯二甲酸丁二醇酯的复合纤维(PBT/PET)、以及具有粘度差的两种聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯的复合纤维(高粘度PET/低粘度PET)中的一种或几种。其形态没有特别限定，可以为全牵伸丝FDY或者假捻加工纱DTY。这些纤维的卷曲性较高，刚性比较好，形成的面料更加挺括、更加稳定。
作为优选，共同成圈的弹性纱线A和聚氨酯纤维，两者总纤度之比为0.5～2.5，更优选为0.7～2.2，以保证面料的刚度和弹性。如果两者总纤度之间的比值低于0.5，则有可能出现聚氨酯纤维在面料的反面露出、面料发亮的问题。如果两者总纤度之比高于2.5，在编织的过程 中有可能出现聚氨酯纤维断纱，无法进行编织。当弹性纱线A由不同纤度的弹性纱线复合时，先计算出弹性纱线A的平均纤度，即先计算出组成弹性纱线A的所有纱线的纤度的平均值，再计算出弹性纱线A的平均纤度与聚氨酯纤维纤度之间的比值。比如，弹性纱线A由弹性纱线a1和弹性纱线a2按照2：1比例复合而成，弹性纱线a1的总纤度为150旦尼尔(简称D)，弹性纱线a2的总纤度为75D，则弹性纱线A的平均纤度的计算公式如下(150×2+75)÷3＝125D。
本发明中，共同成圈的弹性纱线A和聚氨酯纤维，两者的线圈长度之间的比值也比较重要。两者的线长之比小于等于2.3时，有可能会出现如下2种问题：(1)编织针不能顺利地把纱线喂入并成圈；(2)聚氨酯纤维凸在面料的表面，形成疵点，导致面料的弹性缺失。而如果两者的比值大于等于2.8时，又有可能会出现如下2种问题：(1)同样，编织针不能顺利的把纱线喂入并成圈；(2)线圈排列比较松弛，容易发生移动，面料刚性不足，弹性纱线A凸在面料表面，形成疵点，影响面料的外观。因此，优选两者的线长之比大于2.3小于2.8，更优选2.4～2.7。
本发明的面料中，除了弹性纱线A和聚氨酯纤维之外，优选还含有其他纱线(纱线3)。这里的其他纱线的种类没有特别限定，考虑到纤维素纤维的分子内和分子间都能形成氢键特别是分子内氢键致使糖苷键不能旋转从而使刚性大大增加。这里的纤维素纤维包括天然纤维和再生纤维素纤维，其中天然纤维可以列举的是棉、麻等，再生纤维素纤维可以列举的是粘胶、天丝等。另外，聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯(PET)具有 良好的力学性能，冲击刚度优良，刚性较好。因此，优选这两种中的至少一种作为其他纱线的原料，这样更易保持机织风格的特性。考虑到面料的外观自然感，因此，更优选天然纤维。其他纱线(纱线3)的形态没有特别限定，可以是长丝复丝、短纤纱(纯纺短纤纱或者混纺短纤纱)，也可以是长短复合纱。纱线太细，硬挺手感有下降的趋势；纱线太粗，外观粗犷，穿着舒适性有下降的趋势。因此，作为长丝复丝或者长短复合纱时，其纤度优选为100～200D；作为短纤纱时，其支数优选为50～21英支。
本发明所采用的组织没有特别限定，优选为珠地组织、变化珠地组织、变化珠地斜纹、变化斜纹组织等。变化珠地组织是通过成圈、集圈、浮线进行复合而成，变化珠地斜纹和变化斜纹可以选择成圈、集圈、浮线的个数与排列顺序来实现。但不限于此，只要能获得一面为全线圈结构(纱线全部成圈)，另一面为全线圈以外的变化机构(如集圈：浮线＝1：1；成圈：浮线＝1：2)的单面组织即可。
作为优选，本发明针织面料的横向和纵向的伸长率均为10％～60％，伸长回复率均在80％以上，以保证面料的穿着舒适性。
作为优选，本发明针织面料的通气量为3.0～10.0cm 3/cm 2·s，以保证面料的保暖透气性。
作为优选，本发明针织面料的弯曲刚度为0.20～0.35gf.cm 2/cm，具有优越的机织物风格。
本发明的针织面料，根据不同的季节和不同的用途，其克重优选为150～400g/m 2，更优选为200～350g/m 2。特别适合裤子、外套或裙装等。
本发明的针织面料可以通过如下方法制得：在22G～36G单面圆编机上，至少选用弹性纱线A和聚氨酯纤维进行编织，弹性纱线A和聚氨酯纤维同时喂入并成圈，线圈面的50％以上的线圈由这两种纱线共同形成，得到针织坯布，接着对坯布进行前处理、染色、后整理加工得到仿机织的针织产品。
其中，前处理、染色、后整理加工条件为常规条件，前处理和染色可以同浴进行，也可以分别进行。另外各个工程中可以根据需要加入合适的药剂，比如前处理时可以加入精练剂、漂白剂等、后整理加工可以加入亲水剂、抗静电剂、中和酸、柔软剂、亲水柔软剂等。优选在染色或者后整理加工时加入抗静电剂，以便使用产品时不产生静电以及防止灰尘。本发明所用精练剂、亲水剂等可直接使用市售品，各药剂的用量优选为0.1～50g/L。
下面用实施例及比较例对本发明作进一步说明。其中，本发明所涉及的各物性参数按下面的方法测试并求得。
(1)面积和S1以及总面积S2
从面料上剪取具有弹性纱线A以及聚氨酯纤维共同成圈的10cm*10cm样布1块。将布平整的放在取样板上，保证线圈无任何斜行、扭曲，在样布上随机选取一个弹性纱线A以及聚氨酯纤维共同成圈的线圈，标记出其最高点和最低点，并量出两点之间的距离，通过计算得到中间点的位置并标记。接着进行电子显微镜(SEM)的制样，用刀片沿着线圈的中间标记的位置进行经向切片，切片的时候要保证刀片和样布垂直。样品制作完成后进行截面写真拍摄。拍摄的时候，注意样布和电子显微镜的 镜头在同一平面上。在电子显微镜下(60倍率)，拍摄至少含有一个组织循环的经向截面写真。在电子显微镜下(60倍率)，选择其中的一个组织循环进行拍照，得到照片1，打印出来。先用透明玻璃板将打印的照片1固定好，接着用面积仪量出照片1上线圈的总面积，按同样的方法量3次，得到3组数据，取平均值X1；再量出弹性纱线A以及聚氨酯的面积和，按同样的方法量3次，得到3组数据，取平均值Y1。然后选择不同位置的组织循环进行拍照，得到照片2、照片3、照片4、照片5、照片6、照片7、照片8、照片9、照片10，同照片1的计算方法计算出X2、X3、X4、X5、X6、X7、X8、X9、X10和Y2、Y3、Y4、Y5、Y6、Y7、Y8、Y9、Y10，取X1～X10的平均值作为本发明的总面积S2，取Y1～Y10的平均值作为本发明的面积和S1。
(2)弹性纱线A与聚氨酯纤维之间的线圈长度比
从面料中抽取100个线圈(同时含有弹性纱线A与聚氨酯纤维)并作上记号，分别测量出此100个线圈中弹性纱线A与聚氨酯纤维的长度，计算两者的比值。按照同样的方法，再测19次，共20组数据取平均值作为本发明的线圈长度比。
(3)弹性伸长率和伸长回复率
根据JIS L 1096：2010 B法(定荷重法)。
(4)通气量
根据JIS L 1096：2010 A法。
(5)仿机织外观
10人对面料外观进行观察。8人以上认为具有机织外观效果的则评定为 优，用○表示；5-7人认为具有机织外观效果的则评定为良，用△表示。
4人以下认为具有机织外观效果的则评定为差，用×表示。
(6)卷缩率CR值
根据JIS L 1013(2010)法。
(7)弯曲刚度
根据KES FB2法测试刚柔性B值。弯曲刚度B值越大，面料的挺阔感越强。
实施例1
选用150D/48f的PBT/PET DTY(CR值45％)、105D的PU长丝以及30英支纯棉短纤纱进行编织，其中，PBT/PET DTY与PU长丝同时喂入，组织为珠地组织，在反面全成圈得到坯布，接着对坯布进行前处理(精练剂1g/L)、中间定型、染色(分散染料染色130℃*30min、活性染料染色60℃*60min)、后整理加工(抗静电剂1g/L，亲水柔软剂30g/l)，得到本发明的针织面料。所得面料的各项性能详见表1。
实施例2
选用150D/48f的PBT/PET DTY(CR值45％)、150D/48f的普通PET DTY、105D的PU长丝以及30英支纯棉短纤纱进行编织，其中，PBT/PET DTY和普通PET DTY分别与PU长丝同时喂入，PBT/PET DTY与普通PET DTY按照1：1的比例配列，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的针织面料。所得面料的各项性能详见表1。
实施例3
将150D/96f的PBT/PET DTY(CR值45％)替换为150D/48f的PTT/PET  DTY(CR值42％)，PTT/PET DTY与PU长丝同时喂入，组织为变化珠地，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的针织面料。所得面料的各项性能详见表1。
实施例4
将150D/48f的PBT/PET DTY(CR值45％)替换为150D/48f的PBT DTY(CR值40％)，PBT DTY与PU长丝同时喂入，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的针织面料。所得面料的各项性能详见表1。
实施例5
将150D/48f的PBT/PET DTY(CR值45％)替换为75D/48f的PBT/PET DTY(CR值45％)，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的针织面料。所得面料的各项性能详见表1。
实施例6
选用75D/48f的PBT/PET DTY(CR值45％)、50D的PU长丝以及50英支T/C长短复合纱线(棉纱与30D的PET长丝复合而成)，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的针织面料。所得面料的各项性能详见表1。
实施例7
选用75D/48f的PBT/PET DTY(CR值45％)、30D的PU长丝以及40英支纯棉短纤纱进行编织，组织为变化珠地，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的针织面料。所得面料的各项性能详见表1。
实施例8
选用150D/96f的PBT/PET DTY(CR值45％)、150D/48f的普通PET DTY、105D的PU长丝以及30英支纯棉短纤纱进行编织，其中，PBT/PET DTY 和普通PET DTY分别与PU长丝同时喂入，PBT/PET DTY与普通PET DTY按照2：1的比例配列，组织为珠地斜纹，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的针织面料。所得面料的各项性能详见表1。
实施例9
将150D/48f的PBT/PET DTY(CR值45％)替换为100D/48f的聚酰胺高弹DTY(CR值为55％)，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的针织面料。所得面料的各项性能详见表1。
实施例10
选用75D/48f的PBT/PET DTY(CR值45％)、75D/48f的普通PET DTY、70D的PU长丝以及40英支T/R短纤纱(PET与粘胶混纺纱)进行编织，其中，PBT/PET DTY和普通PET DTY分别与PU长丝同时喂入，PBT/PET DTY与普通PET DTY按照1：1的比例配列，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的针织面料。所得面料的各项性能详见表1。
实施例11
将30英支纯棉短纤纱替换为30英支PET短纤纱，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的针织面料。所得面料的各项性能详见表1。
实施例12
选用150D/48f的PBT/PET DTY(CR值45％)、150D/48f的PTT/PET DTY(CR值42％)、105D的PU长丝以及30英支T/C短纤纱(PET与棉纤维的混纺纱)进行编织，其中，PBT/PET DTY和PTT/PET DTY分别与PU长丝同时喂入，PBT/PET DTY与PTT/PET DTY按照1：1的比例配列，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的针织面料。所得面料的各项性能详见表2。
实施例13
选用150D/48f的PET/PET DTY(CR值35％)、150D/48f的普通PET DTY、70D的PU长丝以及30英支天丝短纤纱进行编织，其中，PET/PET DTY和普通PET DTY分别与PU长丝同时喂入，PET/PET DTY与普通PET DTY按照2：1的比例配列，组织为变化斜纹，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的针织面料。所得面料的各项性能详见表2。
实施例14
选用150D/48f的PBT/PET DTY(CR值45％)、105D的PU长丝进行编织，其中PBT/PET DTY与PU长丝同时喂入，组织为纬平针组织，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的针织面料。所得面料的各项性能详见表2。
实施例15
105D的PU长丝替换为50D的PU长丝，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的针织面料。所得面料的各项性能详见表2。
实施例16
选用75D/48f的PBT/PET DTY(CR值45％)、30D的PU长丝以及100D/36f的普通PET DTY进行编织,组织为变化珠地，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的针织面料。所得面料的各项性能详见表2。
实施例17
选用75D/48f的PBT/PET DTY(CR值45％)以及30D的PU长丝进行编织，组织为变化珠地，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的针织面料。所得面料的各项性能详见表2。
实施例18
选用150D/48f的PBT/PET DTY(CR值45％)、150D/48f的普通PET DTY、105D的PU长丝以及30英支纯棉短纤纱进行编织,其中，PBT/PET DTY和普通PET DTY分别与PU长丝同时喂入，PBT/PET DTY与普通PET DTY按照1：2的比例配列，组织为珠地斜纹，其余同实施例1，得到本发明的针织面料。所得面料的各项性能详见表2。
由实施例1-18的针织面料制得的外套、裤装或裙装。
比较例1
不使用PU长丝，其余同实施例1，得到针织面料。所得面料的各项性能详见表2。
比较例2
将150D/48f的PBT/PET DTY(CR值45％)替换为150D/48f的普通PET DTY(CR值为16％)，其余同实施例1，得到针织面料。所得面料的各项性能详见表2。
比较例3
选用75D/48f的PBT/PET DTY(CR值45％)与30D的PU长丝形成的PU包覆纱以及50英支T/C长短复合纱(棉纱与30D的PET长丝复合而成)进行编织，其余同实施例1，得到针织面料。所得面料的各项性能详见表2。
表1
Figure PCTCN2021099572-appb-000001
表2
Figure PCTCN2021099572-appb-000002
根据表1和表2，
(1)由实施例1和实施例2可知，同等条件下，PBT/PET和PU共同成圈比例为100％的针织面料与PBT/PET和PU共同成圈比例为50％的针织面料相比，两者的仿机织外观效果相当，前者的弯曲刚度、弹性回复都优于后者，而且通气量低于后者，也就是说，前者无论是外观还是性能方面都比后者更接近机织面料。
(2)由实施例1和实施例9可知，同等条件下，采用PBT/PET DTY作为弹性纱线A的针织面料与采用聚酰胺高弹DTY作为弹性纱线A的针织面料相比，两者的仿机织外观效果相当，前者的弹性不及后者，但弯曲刚度比后者大，通气量也比后者低很多，总体上来说，前者无论是外观还是性能方面都比后者更接近机织面料。
(3)由实施例1和实施例11可知，同等条件下，纱线3采用纯棉短纤纱的针织面料与纱线3采用纯涤短纤纱的针织面料相比，两者的仿机织外观效果相当，但是前者的通气量要比后者低一些，并且有着更加自然的棉品外观，综合效果优于后者。
(4)由实施例1和实施例14可知，同等条件下，使用珠地组织的针织面料与使用纬平针组织的针织面料相比，在仿机织外观、弯曲刚度和弹性回复性方面，前者都大大地优于后者。
(5)由实施例1和实施例15可知，同等条件下，PBT/PET和PU总纤度之比为1.4的针织面料与PBT/PET和PU总纤度比为3.0的针织面料相比，前者的弯曲刚度比后者大，通气量比后者低很多，而且仿机织外观效果优于后者，也就是说，前者无论是外观还是性能方面都远远地优于 后者。
(6)由实施例7和实施例16可知，同等条件下，(S1/S2)*100为29的针织面料与(S1/S2)*100为37的针织面料相比，前者的弯曲刚度比后者大，通气量比后者低很多，仿机织外观效果优于后者，也就是说，前者无论是外观还是性能方面都远远地优于后者。
(7)由实施例7和实施例17可知，同等条件下，(S1/S2)*100为29的针织面料与(S1/S2)*100为1的针织面料相比，前者的弯曲刚度比后者大，仿机织外观效果优于后者，通气量也比后者低很多，也就是说，前者无论是外观还是性能方面都更远远地优于后者。
(8)由实施例8和实施例18可知，同等条件下，PBT/PET和PU共同成圈比例为67％的针织面料与PBT/PET和PU共同成圈比例为33％的针织面料相比，两者的仿机织外观效果相当，前者的弯曲刚度、弹性回复都优于后者，通气量低于后者，也就是说，前者无论是外观还是性能方面都比后者更接近机织面料
(9)由比较例1与实施例1可知，同等条件下，仅使用PBT/PET单独成圈的针织面料与PBT/PET和PU共同成圈的针织面料相比，前者的弯曲刚度小，伸长率大，通气量大，而且仿机织外观效果很差，也就是说，前者无论是性能方面还是外观方面都与机织面料存在明显差距。
(10)由比较例2与实施例1可知，同等条件下，普通PET DTY和PU共同成圈得到的针织面料与PBT/PET DTY和PU共同成圈得到的针织面料相比，前者的弯曲刚度较小，通气量较大，而且仿机织外观效果很差，也就是说，前者无论是性能方面还是外观方面都与机织面料存在明显差 距。
(11)由比较例3与实施例6可知，PBT/PET短纤维和PU形成PU包覆纱后再喂入编织得到的针织面料与PBT/PET DTY和PU分别喂入共同形成线圈的针织面料相比，前者的弯曲刚度较小，通气量较大，而且仿机织外观效果很差，也就是说，前者无论是性能方面还是外观方面都与机织面料存在明显差距。

Claims (8)

  1. 一种针织面料，其特征是：所述针织面料为包括弹性纱线A以及聚氨酯纤维的单面针织物，且线圈面上包括有由弹性纱线A和聚氨酯纤维分别喂入并共同形成的线圈。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述针织面料，其特征是：所述弹性纱线A为聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯纤维、聚对苯二甲酸丁二醇酯纤维、聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯/聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯复合纤维、聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯/聚对苯二甲酸丁二醇酯复合纤维、以及高粘度聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯/低粘度聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯复合纤维中的一种或几种。
  3. 根据权利要求1所述针织面料，其特征是：所述弹性纱线A的总纤度和所述聚氨酯纤维的总纤度之比为0.5～2.5。
  4. 根据权利要求1所述针织面料，其特征是：所述针织面料的经向截面上沿着横向的一个组织循环中，弹性纱线A以及聚氨酯纤维的面积和S1与一个组织循环中线圈的总面积S2满足如下公式：
    10≦(S1/S2)*100≦35。
  5. 根据权利要求1～4中任一项所述针织面料，其特征是：所述针织面料的横向和纵向的伸长率均为10％～60％，伸长回复率均为80％以上。
  6. 根据权利要求1～4中任一项所述针织面料，其特征是：所述针织面料的通气量为3.0～10.0cm 3/cm 2·s。
  7. 根据权利要求1～4中任一项所述针织面料，其特征是：所述针织面料的弯曲刚度为0.20～0.35gf.cm 2/cm。
  8. 使用权利要求1～4中任一项所述针织面料制得的外套、裤装或裙装。
PCT/CN2021/099572 2020-06-15 2021-06-11 针织面料及其用途 WO2021254258A1 (zh)

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