WO2020248928A1 - 一种含铜氨纤维的面料制备工艺 - Google Patents

一种含铜氨纤维的面料制备工艺 Download PDF

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WO2020248928A1
WO2020248928A1 PCT/CN2020/094866 CN2020094866W WO2020248928A1 WO 2020248928 A1 WO2020248928 A1 WO 2020248928A1 CN 2020094866 W CN2020094866 W CN 2020094866W WO 2020248928 A1 WO2020248928 A1 WO 2020248928A1
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fabric
minutes
stage
operating temperature
dyeing
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PCT/CN2020/094866
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English (en)
French (fr)
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姚栋平
陆建红
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吴江德伊时装面料有限公司
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Publication of WO2020248928A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020248928A1/zh

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B17/00—Storing of textile materials in association with the treatment of the materials by liquids, gases or vapours
    • D06B17/02—Storing of textile materials in association with the treatment of the materials by liquids, gases or vapours in superimposed, i.e. stack-packed, form; J-boxes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D06B3/10—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a process for preparing a fabric containing copper ammonia fiber.
  • Pure copper ammonia fiber fabric is a product independently developed by our company. It was included in the second batch of key development product projects in Suzhou in 2002. It passed the acceptance appraisal by an expert group organized by Suzhou Science and Technology Bureau in 2005. Its production process has been awarded the national The invention patent was recognized as "High-tech Product of Jiangsu province” by the Provincial Department of Science and Technology in 2006.
  • Cupro fabrics have always been our star product.
  • the company produces various cupra, cotton, polyester, nylon and their interwoven products with mature weaving, dyeing and finishing processes.
  • the dyeing method of cupro and tencel fiber interwoven products 2008 The national patent has been obtained in 2012.
  • Copper ammonia fiber is single-fiber, smooth surface, good simulation effect, and its wet strength is high, wet elongation is low, textile processing performance is good, at the same time, the fiber has good moisture absorption, fast absorption, high water absorption rate, good fabric wear performance, It has four functions: breathing, refreshing, antistatic, and good drape. Its most attractive feature is its moisture absorption and desorption, and it is a refreshing fiber that can breathe.
  • the use of cupra fiber is similar to that of viscose fiber, but the single fiber of cupra fiber is thinner than viscose fiber, and its product has excellent wearing performance, similar to silk, and has a great drape. With the development of society and economy, consumer demand is getting higher and higher.
  • the technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to overcome the shortcomings of the prior art and provide a fabric preparation process containing copper ammonia fiber.
  • a preparation process of a cupra-containing fabric includes a raw material selection stage, a fiber weaving stage, and a fabric dyeing stage.
  • the raw materials selected in the raw material selection stage are cupra and T400 elastic fibers; the cupra fiber is used in the fiber weaving stage.
  • the fabric dyeing stage includes the following steps in sequence: 1, the fabric is processed before cold pile; 2, the fabric after step 1 is pre-shrinked and cleaned; 3, Use an overflow dyeing machine for dyeing the fabric after step 2; 4, shape the semi-finished fabric after step 3; 5, shape the finished fabric after step 4; step 1 before cold pile
  • the operation method of the treatment is as follows: first put the cold pile additives on the fabric, and then stack them at 40°C for 24 hours; the cold pile additives include liquid caustic soda 50G/L, desizing agent 5g/L, and degreaser 3g/L , Refining agent 3g/L;
  • the fabric passes through 7 water tanks in sequence during the open-width pre-shrinking process, and the temperature of the 7 water tanks are 50°C, 70°C, 85°C, 90°C, 95°C, 95 °C;
  • the dyeing of the fabric includes the disperse dye dyeing stage and the
  • the operation method of the disperse dye dyeing stage is as follows: a. Add levelling agent, disperse dye, thiamine or acetic acid in sequence and then the machine runs ten Minutes; b. Keep warm at high temperature; c. Carry out the first water wash; d. Carry out the second water wash;
  • the operation method of the reactive dye over-dyeing stage is: e. Add bath treasure and run for 5 minutes; f. Add activity Dye and run for 15 minutes; g, add sodium sulfate and run for 15 minutes; h, add soda ash and run for 15 minutes; i, add liquid caustic soda and run for 15 minutes; j, keep warm at low temperature; k, perform the third washing L.
  • step b the operating temperature is 130°C and the time is 40 minutes; the operating temperature in step j is 40°C and the time is 35 minutes; step a, step e
  • the operating temperature in step f is 30°C; the operating temperature in steps g, h, and i is 40°C; the operating temperature in step c is 70°C and the time is 10 minutes; the operating temperature in step d is 50°C and the time
  • the operating temperature in step k is 50°C and the time is 10 minutes; the operating temperature in step l is 85°C and the time is 15 minutes; the operating temperature in step m is 70°C and the time is 10 minutes; the operation in step 4
  • the temperature is 140°C, the cloth travel speed is 30m/min, and the width is 100CM; in step 5, the operating temperature is 130°C, the cloth travel speed is 35m/min, and the width is 100CM.
  • a preparation process of a cupra-containing fabric includes a raw material selection stage, a fiber weaving stage, and a fabric dyeing stage.
  • the raw materials selected in the raw material selection stage are cupra and T400 elastic fibers; the fiber weaving In the stage, cuprafiber is used as the fabric warp, and T400 elastic fiber is used as the fabric weft;
  • the fabric dyeing stage includes the following steps in sequence: 1, the fabric is processed before cold pile; 2, the fabric after step 1 is flattened The web is pre-shrunk and washed; 3, the fabric processed in step 2 is dyed with an overflow dyeing machine; 4, the fabric processed in step 3 is semi-finished; 5, the fabric processed in step 4 is finished Stereotyped.
  • the operation method of the pre-treatment of the cold pile in step 1 is: first apply the cold pile assistant to the fabric, and then stack it at 40° C. for 24 hours.
  • the cold reactor auxiliary agent includes liquid caustic soda 50G/L, desizing agent 5g/L, degreasing agent 3g/L, and refining agent 3g/L.
  • the fabric passes through 7 water tanks in sequence, and the temperatures of the 7 water tanks are 50°C, 70°C, 85°C, 90°C, 95°C, and 95°C in sequence.
  • the dyeing of the fabric in step 3 includes a disperse dye dyeing stage and a reactive dye overdyeing stage.
  • the operation method of the disperse dye dyeing stage is: a. Add levelling agent, disperse dye, thiamine or acetic acid in sequence. Run for ten minutes; b. Keep heat preservation at high temperature; c. Carry out the first washing; d. Carry out the second washing;
  • the operating method of the reactive dye over-dyeing stage is: e. Adding Yuzhongbao and running for 5 minutes; f. Adding reactive dyes and running for 15 minutes; g. Adding sodium sulfate and running for 15 minutes; h. Adding soda ash and running 15 minutes; i, add liquid caustic soda and run for 15 minutes; j, keep warm at low temperature; k, perform the third washing; l, perform the fourth washing; m, perform the fifth washing.
  • the operating temperature in step b is 130°C and the time is 40 minutes; the operating temperature in step j is 40°C and the time is 35 minutes.
  • the operating temperature in step c is 70°C and the time is 10 minutes; the operating temperature in step d is 50°C and the time is 10 minutes; the operating temperature in step k is 50°C and the time is 10 minutes; and the operating temperature in step l The temperature is 85°C and the time is 15 minutes; the operating temperature in step m is 70°C and the time is 10 minutes.
  • the operating temperature is 140° C.
  • the cloth traveling speed is 30 m/min
  • the door width is 100 cm.
  • the operating temperature is 130° C.
  • the cloth traveling speed is 35 m/min
  • the door width is 100 cm.
  • the present invention has the following advantages compared with the prior art:
  • the products produced by the warp and weft density changes and organizational changes form a patchwork of uneven double-sided effects, so that the fabric realizes the unity of vision, touch and function, giving the fabric a sense of comfort and fashion, and highlighting the three-dimensional unevenness of the fabric.
  • the effect and the layering of the patchwork make the fabric have a unique appearance and double-sided effect, which improves the grade and visual beauty and wearability of the fabric.
  • the texture of the fabric woven by the two fibers is more dense, soft, and outstanding drape , which is more elegant, comfortable and soft.
  • the product has high added value and good economic benefits.
  • Figure 1 is a schematic diagram of the steps of the disperse dye dyeing stage
  • Figure 2 is a schematic diagram of the steps of the reactive dye overdyeing stage.
  • a preparation process of a fabric containing copper ammonia fibers includes a raw material selection stage, a fiber weaving stage, and a fabric dyeing stage.
  • the raw materials selected in the raw material selection stage are cupra and T400 elastic fibers.
  • the fiber weaving stage cupra is used as the fabric warp and T400 elastic fiber is used as the fabric weft.
  • the cupra is added with a proper twist to increase the strength, improve the weaving performance, and increase the application range of the product to achieve the best Good body and hanging feeling, thereby improving the weaving efficiency, the air-jet loom weaving is free of pulp, and the desizing process in the dyeing process is free, reducing the generation of sewage, protecting the environment, and realizing the harmonious development of man and nature.
  • the weaving process should be optimized to ensure the smooth production of weaving. Therefore, the electronic dobby air jet loom imported from Japan is used and the machine is selected reasonably. Tension ensures clear shed, reduces end breakage, enables weft yarn to be inserted smoothly in airflow, and reduces weaving defects.
  • the fabric dyeing stage includes the following steps in sequence:
  • the fabric is processed before cold pile; the purpose is to desizing, degreasing and decontamination under the action of alkali.
  • the operation method of the cold reactor pretreatment in this step is: first apply the cold reactor additives to the fabric (the cold reactor additives include liquid caustic soda 50G/L, desizing agent 5g/L, degreasing agent 3g/L, and refining agent 3g/ L), then stack at 40°C for 24 hours.
  • the pre-treatment cost of cold pile is low, which is suitable for continuous production. It can reduce the time of cylinder mixing, shorten the time in the cylinder, reduce the risk of cloth scratches in the cylinder, the cloth surface is flat, not easy to crepe, and the process is stable. , Compared with the conventional machine cylinder, the cloth can be washed and dyed with water and can be shortened by 4 hours per cylinder.
  • the fabric treated in step 1 is pre-shrinked and cleaned; the purpose is to clean the alkali and auxiliary agents on the cloth surface, and shrink uniformly in the warp and weft directions to ensure that the cloth surface is flat and there is no crepe.
  • the fabric in this step passes through 7 water tanks in sequence, and the temperature of the 7 water tanks is 50°C, 70°C, 85°C, 90°C, 95°C, 95°C; in addition, the fabric in this step
  • the cloth entrance width is 165CM
  • the cloth exit width is 110M
  • the cloth surface has a pH value of 7.3.
  • overflow dyeing machine Use an overflow dyeing machine to dye the fabric treated in step 2; the overflow dyeing machine allows the weft yarn to shrink once more to produce elasticity, highlighting the uneven style of the fabric. Control the shrinkage of the finished product.
  • Reactive dyes are used to dye copper ammonia fiber and disperse dyes to dye polyester T400, which can be dyed into two-color effect or single color.
  • the reactive dyes are L-type reactive dyes of Annoqi Company, dyed at 40 degrees, and the fabric width is 98CM;
  • the dyeing of the fabric in this step includes the disperse dye dyeing stage and the reactive dye overdyeing stage, that is, first dye with disperse dyes, then disperse dyeing and then check the sample. After the color is qualified, wash with water, and then overdye with reactive dyes (bath ratio) 1:15);
  • the operation method of disperse dyeing stage is:
  • the heat preservation temperature is 130°C (the temperature rises to 130°C at a rate of 1.2°C per minute), and the heat preservation time is 40 minutes.
  • the operation method of reactive dye over-dyeing stage is:
  • the semi-finished fabric processed in step 3 is shaped; the operating temperature in this step is 140°C, the fabric travel speed is 30m/min, and the width is 100CM.
  • the operating temperature is 130°C
  • the fabric travel speed is 35m/min
  • the width is 100CM
  • the upper moisture absorption and quick drying HSD 1%, hydrophilic and soft 0.5% increase the hygroscopicity and hydrophilicity of the product.
  • T400 is a new type of elastic fiber that will not lose its elasticity due to repeated washing. Even if you do a large amount of exercise or wash for many times, the clothes and pants will remain the same. At the same time, you will feel free to do what you want when you exercise, and it will not feel bound to your skin.
  • the defect that the elasticity of "Lycra" elastic fiber is easy to lose is solved.
  • the fabric has good elasticity and reducibility, excellent sweat absorption and anti-crepe and slippery properties, which makes the skin feel comfortable when wearing it. It is the first choice for making men's and women's pants. It does not contain spandex, which is more wear-resistant than spandex-containing elastic fabrics and is not easy to deform.
  • the invention is a research and development project independently determined by the company after extensive research and development through domestic and foreign sales markets.
  • the company's technical personnel independently design and guide the production of products after digesting and absorbing the product research and development concepts of developed countries such as Japan and Italy.
  • the successful research and development of the fabric preparation process of the cupra-containing fiber of the present invention is a breakthrough. It organically combines the performance advantages of cupra and polyester T400 fibers, and fully demonstrates the characteristics of the two fibers. , Allowing consumers to enjoy the best and most comfortable clothing fabrics;
  • the products produced by the warp and weft density changes and organizational changes form a patchwork of uneven double-sided effects, so that the fabric realizes the unity of vision, touch and function, giving the fabric a sense of comfort and fashion, and highlighting the three-dimensional unevenness of the fabric.
  • the effect and the layering of the patchwork make the fabric have a unique appearance and double-sided effect, which improves the grade and visual beauty and wearability of the fabric.
  • the texture of the fabric woven by the two fibers is more dense, soft, and outstanding drape , which is more elegant, comfortable and soft.
  • the product has high added value and good economic benefits.

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Abstract

一种含铜氨纤维的面料制备工艺，包括原材料选用阶段、纤维织造阶段以及面料染色阶段，原材料选用阶段所选用的原材料为铜氨纤维和T400弹性纤维；纤维织造阶段中将铜氨纤维作为面料经纱，将T400弹性纤维作为面料纬纱；面料染色阶段依次包括如下步骤：①、将面料进行冷堆前处理；②、将经步骤①处理后的面料进行平幅预缩并清洗；③、将经步骤②处理后的面料使用溢流染色机进行染色；④、将经步骤③处理后的面料进行半成品定型；⑤、将经步骤④处理后的面料进行成品定型。

Description

一种含铜氨纤维的面料制备工艺 技术领域
本发明涉及一种含铜氨纤维的面料制备工艺。
背景技术
纯铜氨纤维面料是我公司自主研发的产品，于2002年被列入苏州市第二批重点开发产品项目，于2005年通过苏州市科技局组织的专家组验收鉴定，其生产工艺已获得国家发明专利，2006年被省科技厅确认为“江苏省高新技术产品”。
铜氨面料一直以来是我司的明星产品，公司生产各种铜氨、棉、涤纶、尼龙及其交织产品都具备成熟的织造和染整工艺，铜氨与天丝纤维交织产品的染色方法2008年已获得了国家专利。
铜氨纤维单纤细，表面光滑，仿真效果好，且它的湿强力高，湿延伸率低，纺织加工性能好，同时纤维吸湿性好、吸收快，吸水率高，面料服用性能好，具有会呼吸、清爽、抗静电、悬垂性佳四大功能，其最吸引人的特性为具吸湿、放湿性，属会呼吸的清爽纤维。铜氨纤维的用途与粘胶纤维有相似之处，但铜氨纤维的单纤比粘胶纤维更细，其产品的服用性能极佳，性能近似于丝绸，极具悬垂感。随着社会经济的发展，消费者的需求也越来越高，如何对铜氨纤维进行进一步的开发，使铜氨面料朝着更丰富、更完美的方向发展，并开发出让消费者感受到更好更舒适的服装面料以满足消费者高层次、高品位的需求，是本领域技术人员一直不懈的追求。
发明内容
本发明所要解决的技术问题是克服现有技术的不足，提供一种含铜氨纤维的面料制备工艺。
为解决上述技术问题，本发明采取的技术方案如下：
一种含铜氨纤维的面料制备工艺，制备工艺包括原材料选用阶段、纤维织造阶段以及面料染色阶段，原材料选用阶段所选用的原材料为铜氨纤维和T400弹性纤维；纤维织造阶段中将铜氨纤维作为面料经纱，将T400弹性纤维作为面料纬纱；面料染色阶段依次包括如下步骤：①、将面料进行冷堆前处理；②、将经步骤①处理后的面料进行平幅预缩并清洗；③、将经步骤②处理后的面料使用溢流染色机进行染色；④、将经步骤③处理后的面料进行半成品定型；⑤、将经步骤④处理后的面料进行成品定型；步骤①中冷堆前处理的操作方法为：先对面料上冷堆助剂，然后在40℃温度下堆置24小时；冷堆助剂包括液碱50G/L、退浆剂5g/L、除油剂3g/L、精炼剂3g/L；步骤②中面料进行平幅预缩的过程中的依次经过7个水槽， 且7个水槽的温度依次为50℃、70℃、85℃、90℃、95℃、95℃；步骤③中对面料的染色包括分散染料染色阶段和活性染料套染阶段，分散染料染色阶段的操作方法为：a、依次加入匀染剂、分散染料、硫胺或醋酸后机台运转十分钟；b、在高温下保温；c、进行第一次水洗；d、进行第二次水洗；活性染料套染阶段的操作方法为：e、加入浴中宝并运转5分钟；f、加入活性染料并运转15分钟；g、加入元明粉并运转15分钟；h、加入纯碱并运转15分钟；i、加入液碱并运转15分钟；j、在低温下保温；k、进行第三次水洗；l、进行第四次水洗；m、进行第五次水洗；步骤b中作业温度为130℃，时间为40分钟；步骤j中作业温度为40℃，时间为35分钟；步骤a、步骤e；步骤f的作业温度为30℃；步骤g、步骤h、步骤i中的作业温度为40度；步骤c中作业温度为70℃，时间为10分钟；步骤d中作业温度为50℃，时间为10分钟；步骤k中作业温度为50℃，时间为10分钟；步骤l中作业温度为85℃，时间为15分钟；步骤m中作业温度为70℃，时间为10分钟；步骤④中作业温度为140℃，布料行进速度为30m/min，门幅为100CM；步骤⑤中作业温度为130℃，布料行进速度为35m/min，门幅为100CM。
一种含铜氨纤维的面料制备工艺，所述制备工艺包括原材料选用阶段、纤维织造阶段以及面料染色阶段，所述原材料选用阶段所选用的原材料为铜氨纤维和T400弹性纤维；所述纤维织造阶段中将铜氨纤维作为面料经纱，将T400弹性纤维作为面料纬纱；所述面料染色阶段依次包括如下步骤：①、将面料进行冷堆前处理；②、将经步骤①处理后的面料进行平幅预缩并清洗；③、将经步骤②处理后的面料使用溢流染色机进行染色；④、将经步骤③处理后的面料进行半成品定型；⑤、将经步骤④处理后的面料进行成品定型。
优选地，步骤①中冷堆前处理的操作方法为：先对面料上冷堆助剂，然后在40℃温度下堆置24小时。
优选地，所述冷堆助剂包括液碱50G/L、退浆剂5g/L、除油剂3g/L、精炼剂3g/L。
优选地，步骤②中面料进行平幅预缩的过程中的依次经过7个水槽，且7个水槽的温度依次为50℃、70℃、85℃、90℃、95℃、95℃。
优选地，步骤③中对面料的染色包括分散染料染色阶段和活性染料套染阶段，所述分散染料染色阶段的操作方法为：a、依次加入匀染剂、分散染料、硫胺或醋酸后机台运转十分钟；b、在高温下保温；c、进行第一次水洗；d、进行第二次水洗；
所述活性染料套染阶段的操作方法为：e、加入浴中宝并运转5分钟；f、加入活性染料并运转15分钟；g、加入元明粉并运转15分钟；h、加入纯碱并运转15分钟；i、加入液碱并运转15分钟；j、在低温下保温；k、进行第三次水洗；l、进行第四次水洗；m、进行第 五次水洗。
优选地，步骤b中作业温度为130℃，时间为40分钟；步骤j中作业温度为40℃，时间为35分钟。
优选地，步骤a、步骤e；步骤f的作业温度为30℃；步骤g、步骤h、步骤i中的作业温度为40度。
优选地，步骤c中作业温度为70℃，时间为10分钟；步骤d中作业温度为50℃，时间为10分钟；步骤k中作业温度为50℃，时间为10分钟；步骤l中作业温度为85℃，时间为15分钟；步骤m中作业温度为70℃，时间为10分钟。
优选地，步骤④中作业温度为140℃，布料行进速度为30m/min，门幅为100CM。
优选地，步骤⑤中作业温度为130℃，布料行进速度为35m/min，门幅为100CM。
由于以上技术方案的实施，本发明与现有技术相比具有如下优点：
本发明的含铜氨纤维的面料制备工艺的研发成功是一个突破，将铜氨纤维和涤纶T400两种纤维的性能优势有机地结合在一起，充分展现了两种纤维的特性，让消费者享用到最好最舒适的服装面料；
制作出来的产品通过经纬密度的变化和组织变化形成错落有致的凹凸感双面效果，使织物实现了视觉、触觉和功能化的统一，赋予织物舒适性与时尚感，既突显了织物的凹凸立体效果和错落有致的层次，又使织物具有富于变化的独特外观和双面效果，提高了织物档次和视觉的美感及服用性能，两种纤维织成的面料质感更加密实、柔软，突出垂感性，从而显得更加优雅、舒适、柔和。产品附加值高，经济效益好。
附图说明
图1为分散染料染色阶段的步骤示意图；
图2为活性染料套染阶段的步骤示意图。
具体实施方式
下面结合附图和具体的实施例对本发明做进一步详细的说明。
一种含铜氨纤维的面料制备工艺，所述制备工艺包括原材料选用阶段、纤维织造阶段以及面料染色阶段，
原材料选用阶段所选用的原材料为铜氨纤维和T400弹性纤维。
纤维织造阶段中将铜氨纤维作为面料经纱，将T400弹性纤维作为面料纬纱，另外，在织造阶段铜氨纤维加适当的捻度可提高强力,提高了织造性能，增加了产品的应用范围，达到最佳的身骨和垂感，从而提高织造效率，喷气织机织造免浆，染色过程中免退浆工序，减 少了污水的产生，保护好环境,实现人与自然和谐发展。为了充分体现小提花产品外观花纹细致，手感柔软，布面光洁柔和，悬垂性佳等优点，要优化织造工艺，确保织造生产顺利进行，故采用日本进口电子多臂喷气织机，合理选择上机张力，确保梭口清晰，降低断头，使纬纱在气流中顺利引纬，减少织疵。
面料染色阶段依次包括如下步骤：
①、将面料进行冷堆前处理；目的在于在碱的作用下退浆、除油、去污。本步骤中冷堆前处理的操作方法为：先对面料上冷堆助剂(冷堆助剂包括液碱50G/L、退浆剂5g/L、除油剂3g/L、精炼剂3g/L)，然后在40℃温度下堆置24小时。另外采用冷堆前处理成本低，适合连续生产，减少机缸炼布这一道，缩短在机缸的时间，减少布在机缸里擦伤的风险，布面平整，不易起绉条，工艺稳定，比常规的机缸炼布后水洗干净染色可以缩短4小时每缸。
②、将经步骤①处理后的面料进行平幅预缩并清洗；目的在于清洗布面的碱及助剂，并且经纬向均匀的收缩，保证布面平整，没有绉条产生。本步骤中面料进行平幅预缩的过程中的依次经过7个水槽，且7个水槽的温度依次为50℃、70℃、85℃、90℃、95℃、95℃；另外本步骤中面料进布门幅165CM,出布门幅110M，布面PH值7.3。
③、将经步骤②处理后的面料使用溢流染色机进行染色；溢流染色机染色让纬纱还有一次充分收缩后产生弹性，突出织物凹凸的风格。控制成品的缩率，活性染料染铜氨纤维，分散染料染涤纶T400，可染成双色效果，也可染单色。活性染料选用安诺其公司的L型活性染料，40度染色，出布门幅98CM；
本步骤中对面料的染色包括分散染料染色阶段和活性染料套染阶段，即，先用分散染料染色，分散染色后再对样，颜色合格后，水洗干净，再用活性染料套染(浴比1:15)；
分散染料染色阶段的操作方法为：
a、依次加入匀染剂、分散染料、硫胺或醋酸后机台运转十分钟(让布与染料在缸内接触十分钟，充分接触)，作业温度为30℃。
b、在高温下保温，保温的温度为130℃(以每分钟1.2℃的升温速度升至130℃)，保温时间为40分钟。
c、进行第一次水洗；温度为70℃，水洗时间为10分钟；d、进行第二次水洗；温度为50℃，水洗时间为10分钟。
活性染料套染阶段的操作方法为：
e、加入浴中宝并运转5分钟，作业温度为30℃。
f、加入活性染料并运转15分钟，作业温度为30℃。
g、加入元明粉(30-60(g/L))并运转15分钟，作业温度为40度，为防止上染速度过快，元明粉分两次加入，第一次加入1/3，第二次加入2/3。
h、加入纯碱(15-20(g/L))并运转15分钟，作业温度为40度，防止局部上染过快，产生色花。
i、加入液碱并运转15分钟，作业温度为40度。
j、在低温下保温；作业温度为40℃，时间为35分钟。
k、进行第三次水洗，温度为50℃，水洗时间为10分钟。
l、进行第四次水洗，温度为85℃，水洗时间为15分钟。
m、进行第五次水洗，温度为70℃，水洗时间为10分钟。
④、将经步骤③处理后的面料进行半成品定型；本步骤中作业温度为140℃，布料行进速度为30m/min，门幅为100CM。
⑤、将经步骤④处理后的面料进行成品定型；本步骤中作业温度为130℃，布料行进速度为35m/min，门幅为100CM；另外，需上吸湿快干HSD 1％，亲水软剂0.5％，增加产品的吸湿性和亲水性。
T400是一种新型的弹性纤维，不会因反复洗涤而丧失弹力。即使你做大幅度运动或多次洗涤，衣裤依然保持原形不变，同时在运动时也会让你感到随身所欲，紧贴肌肤却不会有束缚的感觉。解决了使用“莱卡”弹力纤维易出现弹力丧失的缺陷。面料良好的伸缩性和还原性，优良的吸汗功能及抗绉滑糯，使穿着时皮肤感觉舒适，是制作男、女装裤料的首选面料。不含氨纶，比含氨纶的弹力面料更加耐磨，不易变形。面料档次高，科技含量大，产品附加值高。铜氨与T400双面提花面料经纬纱借助织物丰富的肌理，使人耳目一新，赋予织物舒适性于时尚感，通过纱号、密度、组织变化，既突显了织物的凹凸立体效果和错落有致的层次，又使织物具有富于变化的独特外观和双面效果，还解决了使用“莱卡”弹力纤维易出现弹力丧失的缺陷。
本发明是通过国内外销售市场进行广泛调研发后公司自主确定的研发项目，公司的技术人员通过消化吸收日本、意大利等发达国家产品研发理念后独立自主进行设计和指导生产的产品。
综上所述，本发明的含铜氨纤维的面料制备工艺的研发成功是一个突破，将铜氨纤维和涤纶T400两种纤维的性能优势有机地结合在一起，充分展现了两种纤维的特性，让消费者享用到最好最舒适的服装面料；
制作出来的产品通过经纬密度的变化和组织变化形成错落有致的凹凸感双面效果，使织 物实现了视觉、触觉和功能化的统一，赋予织物舒适性与时尚感，既突显了织物的凹凸立体效果和错落有致的层次，又使织物具有富于变化的独特外观和双面效果，提高了织物档次和视觉的美感及服用性能，两种纤维织成的面料质感更加密实、柔软，突出垂感性，从而显得更加优雅、舒适、柔和。产品附加值高，经济效益好。
以上对本发明做了详尽的描述，其目的在于让熟悉此领域技术的人士能够了解本发明的内容并加以实施，并不能以此限制本发明的保护范围，凡根据本发明的精神实质所作的等效变化或修饰，都应涵盖在本发明的保护范围内。

Claims (11)

  1. 一种含铜氨纤维的面料制备工艺，所述制备工艺包括原材料选用阶段、纤维织造阶段以及面料染色阶段，其特征在于：所述原材料选用阶段所选用的原材料为铜氨纤维和T400弹性纤维；所述纤维织造阶段中将铜氨纤维作为面料经纱，将T400弹性纤维作为面料纬纱；所述面料染色阶段依次包括如下步骤：①、将面料进行冷堆前处理；②、将经步骤①处理后的面料进行平幅预缩并清洗；③、将经步骤②处理后的面料使用溢流染色机进行染色；④、将经步骤③处理后的面料进行半成品定型；⑤、将经步骤④处理后的面料进行成品定型；步骤①中冷堆前处理的操作方法为：先对面料上冷堆助剂，然后在40℃温度下堆置24小时；所述冷堆助剂包括液碱50G/L、退浆剂5g/L、除油剂3g/L、精炼剂3g/L；步骤②中面料进行平幅预缩的过程中的依次经过7个水槽，且7个水槽的温度依次为50℃、70℃、85℃、90℃、95℃、95℃；步骤③中对面料的染色包括分散染料染色阶段和活性染料套染阶段，所述分散染料染色阶段的操作方法为：a、依次加入匀染剂、分散染料、硫胺或醋酸后机台运转十分钟；b、在高温下保温；c、进行第一次水洗；d、进行第二次水洗；所述活性染料套染阶段的操作方法为：e、加入浴中宝并运转5分钟；f、加入活性染料并运转15分钟；g、加入元明粉并运转15分钟；h、加入纯碱并运转15分钟；i、加入液碱并运转15分钟；j、在低温下保温；k、进行第三次水洗；l、进行第四次水洗；m、进行第五次水洗；步骤b中作业温度为130℃，时间为40分钟；步骤j中作业温度为40℃，时间为35分钟；步骤a、步骤e；步骤f的作业温度为30℃；步骤g、步骤h、步骤i中的作业温度为40度；步骤c中作业温度为70℃，时间为10分钟；步骤d中作业温度为50℃，时间为10分钟；步骤k中作业温度为50℃，时间为10分钟；步骤l中作业温度为85℃，时间为15分钟；步骤m中作业温度为70℃，时间为10分钟；步骤④中作业温度为140℃，布料行进速度为30m/min，门幅为100CM；步骤⑤中作业温度为130℃，布料行进速度为35m/min，门幅为100CM。
  2. 一种含铜氨纤维的面料制备工艺，所述制备工艺包括原材料选用阶段、纤维织造阶段以及面料染色阶段，其特征在于：所述原材料选用阶段所选用的原材料为铜氨纤维和T400弹性纤维；所述纤维织造阶段中将铜氨纤维作为面料经纱，将T400弹性纤维作为面料纬纱；所述面料染色阶段依次包括如下步骤：①、将面料进行冷堆前处理；②、将经步骤①处理后的面料进行平幅预缩并清洗；③、将经步骤②处理后的面料使用溢流染色机进行染色；④、将经步骤③处理后的面料进行半成品定型；⑤、将经步骤④处理后的面料进行成品定型。
  3. 根据权利要求2所述的含铜氨纤维的面料制备工艺，其特征在于：步骤①中冷堆前处理的操作方法为：先对面料上冷堆助剂，然后在40℃温度下堆置24小时。
  4. 根据权利要求3所述的含铜氨纤维的面料制备工艺，其特征在于：所述冷堆助剂包括液碱50G/L、退浆剂5g/L、除油剂3g/L、精炼剂3g/L。
  5. 根据权利要求2所述的含铜氨纤维的面料制备工艺，其特征在于：步骤②中面料进行平幅预缩的过程中的依次经过7个水槽，且7个水槽的温度依次为50℃、70℃、85℃、90℃、95℃、95℃。
  6. 根据权利要求2所述的含铜氨纤维的面料制备工艺，其特征在于：步骤③中对面料的染色包括分散染料染色阶段和活性染料套染阶段，所述分散染料染色阶段的操作方法为：a、依次加入匀染剂、分散染料、硫胺或醋酸后机台运转十分钟；b、在高温下保温；c、进行第一次水洗；d、进行第二次水洗；
    所述活性染料套染阶段的操作方法为：e、加入浴中宝并运转5分钟；f、加入活性染料并运转15分钟；g、加入元明粉并运转15分钟；h、加入纯碱并运转15分钟；i、加入液碱并运转15分钟；j、在低温下保温；k、进行第三次水洗；l、进行第四次水洗；m、进行第五次水洗。
  7. 根据权利要求6所述的含铜氨纤维的面料制备工艺，其特征在于：步骤b中作业温度为130℃，时间为40分钟；步骤j中作业温度为40℃，时间为35分钟。
  8. 根据权利要求6所述的含铜氨纤维的面料制备工艺，其特征在于：步骤a、步骤e；步骤f的作业温度为30℃；步骤g、步骤h、步骤i中的作业温度为40度。
  9. 根据权利要求6所述的含铜氨纤维的面料制备工艺，其特征在于：步骤c中作业温度为70℃，时间为10分钟；步骤d中作业温度为50℃，时间为10分钟；步骤k中作业温度为50℃，时间为10分钟；步骤l中作业温度为85℃，时间为15分钟；步骤m中作业温度为70℃，时间为10分钟。
  10. 根据权利要求2所述的含铜氨纤维的面料制备工艺，其特征在于：步骤④中作业温度为140℃，布料行进速度为30m/min，门幅为100CM。
  11. 根据权利要求2所述的含铜氨纤维的面料制备工艺，其特征在于：步骤⑤中作业温度为130℃，布料行进速度为35m/min，门幅为100CM。
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