WO2020162624A1 - 織物及びその製造方法並びに該織物を含む繊維製品 - Google Patents
織物及びその製造方法並びに該織物を含む繊維製品 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2020162624A1 WO2020162624A1 PCT/JP2020/004957 JP2020004957W WO2020162624A1 WO 2020162624 A1 WO2020162624 A1 WO 2020162624A1 JP 2020004957 W JP2020004957 W JP 2020004957W WO 2020162624 A1 WO2020162624 A1 WO 2020162624A1
- Authority
- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- yarn
- weft
- warp
- woven fabric
- yarns
- Prior art date
Links
Images
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/38—Threads in which fibres, filaments, or yarns are wound with other yarns or filaments, e.g. wrap yarns, i.e. strands of filaments or staple fibres are wrapped by a helically wound binder yarn
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/004—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft with weave pattern being non-standard or providing special effects
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/41—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with specific twist
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/587—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads adhesive; fusible
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a woven fabric, a manufacturing method thereof, and a textile product containing the woven fabric.
- Clothes are generally manufactured by cutting and sewing cloth.
- the opening of the garment is usually sewn by folding back the cut edge of the cloth or wrapped with another cloth such as tape and sewn to prevent fraying around the edge.
- it takes a lot of sewing work to prevent the cut edges of the fabric and the cut edges of the opening from being frayed, and the cut edges of underwear or the like appear on the outer garment in a stepped manner, which may damage the fashionability or the seams. Since there is a problem in that the skin touches the skin and impairs the feeling of wearing, there has been a demand for improvement in underwear and sportswear, which often come into direct contact with the skin.
- Patent Document 1 In order to satisfy the above demand, for example, in Patent Document 1 below, at least the inelastic yarn has a 1 ⁇ 1 tricot design, and the elastic yarn has a looping design, and has a stretchable warp knitted fabric in the knitting direction.
- a garment that is cut at an angle of 3 degrees or more and 177 degrees or less, and in the state of being cut, the edge that does not need to be trimmed becomes the edge of the garment.
- Patent Document 2 below proposes a garment having a cut-off specification made of a knitted fabric having a fray-stopping function by knitting a heat-sealing elastic yarn and other yarns by plating knitting.
- these techniques are mainly for knitting, and there is no disclosure of a woven fabric which has a specification of uncut and does not require trimming and a garment made of such a woven fabric.
- Patent Document 3 for the prevention of fraying of a woven fabric, a woven fabric in which a heat-soluble weft yarn is heated and melted after weaving for the purpose of preventing the fraying of a unit mat type woven fabric such as a coaster or a table cloth, and a method for producing the same.
- the heat-soluble yarn is used only as the weft yarn, the warp preventing property of the woven fabric in the warp direction was not sufficient.
- the heat-soluble yarn is used only in the cut part of the fabric, the cut part is limited, and if it is cut and cut at various angles, it causes fraying, which makes it unsuitable for use in clothing.
- Patent Document 4 for the purpose of preventing the mesh-like woven fabric from being unbalanced, a heat treatment is applied to a woven fabric containing heat fusible fibers and dissolved fibers that are dissolved by water or a solvent, and then the melted fibers Disclosed is a method for producing a mesh-like woven fabric in which part of the woven fabric is prevented from being loosened by dissolving and removing a part thereof with water or a solvent.
- the heat-sealing fibers are arranged only around the holes forming the mesh, if they are cut and used at various angles, they are frayed and cannot be used for clothes.
- the fibers constituting the mesh-like woven fabric are composed of fibers having a melting point higher than that of the heat-sealing fibers, they have poor stretchability and are unsuitable for clothing which requires comfortable wearing.
- Japanese Patent No. 3672920 Japanese Patent No. 3983729 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2003-82551 JP, 2005-151630, A
- the problem to be solved by the present invention is to provide a woven fabric having appropriate stretchability and good anti-fray performance, and clothing and the like using the woven fabric.
- the inventors of the present invention have conducted extensive studies and experiments to solve the above problems, and as a result, by configuring only a bare yarn of a polyurethane elastic yarn as a part of the intersection of the warp yarn and the weft yarn constituting the woven fabric, The inventors have unexpectedly found that the problems can be solved and have completed the present invention.
- a woven fabric composed of a bare polyurethane elastic yarn (A yarn) and a non-elastic yarn or a composite yarn (B yarn) of a non-elastic yarn and a polyurethane elastic yarn, wherein the warp yarn and the weft yarn intersect each other.
- both the warp yarn and the weft yarn are the A yarn, the warp yarn and the weft yarn are fused or fused in the specific region, and in the complete design of the woven fabric, A woven fabric characterized in that the ratio of the number of intersections between the warp yarns and the weft yarns A in the specific region to the total number of weft intersections is 0.02% or more and 50% or less.
- the composite yarn of the non-elastic yarn and the polyurethane elastic yarn (the warp B yarn and the weft B yarn) is a single covering yarn in which the polyurethane elastic fiber is the core yarn and the non-elastic yarn is the sheath yarn.
- T is the number of times the sheath yarn is wound around 1 meter of the core yarn during processing (T/m)
- D is the fineness (dtex) of the inelastic yarn.
- the woven fabric according to any one of [1] to [3] above, which has a twist coefficient K calculated from 18 to 85.
- a method for producing a woven fabric comprising: [6] The method according to the above [5], wherein the step of fusing or fusing the warp A yarn and the weft A yarn in the specific region is fusing or fusing by thermal processing.
- the composite yarn of the non-elastic yarn and the polyurethane elastic fiber (the warp B yarn and the weft B yarn) is a single covering yarn in which the polyurethane elastic fiber is the core yarn and the non-elastic yarn is the sheath yarn,
- T is the number of times the sheath yarn is wound around 1 meter of the core yarn during processing (T/m)
- D is the fineness (dtex) of the inelastic yarn.
- [8] A fiber product including the woven fabric according to any one of [1] to [4]. [9] The textile product according to the above [8], which has a specification of uncut. [10] The textile product according to the above [8] or [9], which is clothing.
- the woven fabric according to the present invention has appropriate stretchability, and since it has excellent anti-fray performance, if it is used, the fabric edge will not be frayed even after repeated washing and wearing, and the edges will not need to be trimmed. It is possible to obtain a textile product including the specified clothes.
- Woven fabric is based on a certain section of the fabric and is constructed by repeating this. This unit organization of one section is called a complete organization.
- the complete design is the smallest design that represents the structure of the woven fabric, and in FIGS. 1 to 6, the black-painted portions and the shaded portions indicate the portions where the warp threads are on the weft threads.
- the woven fabric of the present embodiment is a woven fabric composed of a bare polyurethane elastic yarn (A yarn) and a non-elastic yarn or a composite yarn (B yarn) of an inelastic yarn and a polyurethane elastic yarn.
- the ratio of the number of intersections between the warp yarns and the weft yarns A in the specific region to the total number of intersections between the warp yarns and the weft yarns is 0.02% or more and 50% or less.
- coalescence refers to a state in which elastic yarns are deformed by processing at the intersections of polyurethane elastic yarns and bite into each other, but when the intersections are peeled off, the elastic yarns can be peeled off neatly without decomposition.
- Fusion refers to a state in which elastic yarns are fused with each other at the intersection and partially integrated, and when the intersection is peeled off, they cannot be separated without disassembling each other.
- the polyurethane elastic yarn (fiber) may be polymerized from, for example, a polyol, a diisocyanate compound, a diamine compound and a diol compound, but is not particularly limited. Further, its synthesis method is not particularly limited.
- the polyurethane fiber may be, for example, a polyurethane fiber (polyurethane urea fiber) obtained by polymerizing a polymer diol, a diisocyanate, a low molecular weight diamine or the like, or a polymer fiber from a polymer diol, a diisocyanate or a low molecular weight diol or the like. Polyurethane fiber (polyurethane urethane fiber) may be used.
- polyurethane urea fiber using a compound having a hydroxyl group and an amino group in the molecule as a chain extender.
- trifunctional or higher polyfunctional glycol or isocyanate may be used.
- the polymer diol include, but are not limited to, polyether diols, polyester diols, and polycarbonate diols.
- the bare polyurethane elastic yarn (A yarn) that constitutes the woven fabric of the present embodiment is preferably a heat-fusible elastic fiber and/or a heat-bondable elastic fiber.
- a composite yarn composed of a readily soluble fiber that dissolves in water and/or a solvent and a polyurethane elastic fiber is placed in at least a part of the warp and at least a part of the weft, and woven, and easily dissolved in the water and/or the solvent.
- a polyether polyurethane polyurethane fiber having excellent alkali resistance is used as the bare yarn (A yarn) of the polyurethane elastic yarn.
- the bare thread (A thread) of the polyurethane elastic thread may contain a component other than polyurethane as long as the desired effect is not impaired.
- the easily soluble fiber is dissolved and removed with water and/or a solvent, it is easily dissolved. It may contain undissolved material or decomposed material of the natural fiber.
- the heat-fusible elastic fiber or the heat-bondable elastic fiber include Mobilon (trade name) manufactured by Nisshinbo Co., Ltd. and Loika SF (trade name) manufactured by Asahi Kasei Co., Ltd. It is not limited to these as long as they are elastic fibers that are fused to each other or elastic fibers that are deformed and fused by heat.
- the fineness, the number of single yarns, the cross-sectional shape, etc. of the polyurethane elastic fiber are not particularly limited.
- the yarn may be a monofilament composed of one single yarn or a multifilament composed of a plurality of single yarns.
- the cross-sectional shape of the yarn may be circular, or may be flat or cocoon-shaped.
- the bare yarn (A yarn) of the polyurethane elastic fiber is preferably a yarn having a total fineness of 5 to 2500 dtex. When it is 5 dtex or more, the elongation is sufficiently high and the practical strength of the cloth can be obtained.
- the stretching power of the cloth does not become too large, and the cloth can be processed by the usual dyeing processing equipment.
- the bare yarn of the polyurethane elastic yarn is arranged on at least a part of the warp yarns and at least a part of the weft yarns constituting the woven fabric to directly weave the bare yarn, it is preferably 22 dtex or more.
- the non-elastic yarn or the composite yarn (B yarn) of the non-elastic yarn and the polyurethane elastic yarn is not particularly limited, but the non-elastic yarn is obtained from the viewpoint of obtaining appropriate stretchability and dimensional stability of the woven fabric.
- a composite yarn of polyurethane elastic yarn and polyurethane is preferable.
- the non-elastic yarn constituting the B yarn is not particularly limited, and examples of the filament yarn include chemically synthesized polyamide fibers, polyester fibers, acrylic fibers, polypropylene fibers, vinyl chloride fibers, and cellulose fibers. Those made of fibers are preferred.
- the filament yarn may be in the form of a raw yarn (unprocessed yarn), a false twisted yarn, a yarn dyed yarn, or a composite yarn of these.
- the cross-sectional shape of the filament yarn is not particularly limited, such as ⁇ , ⁇ , cross, W type, M type, C type, I type, dog bone type, and hollow fiber.
- the spun yarn is preferably a natural fiber such as cotton, wool, or hemp, a polyamide fiber, a polyester fiber, an acrylic fiber, a polypropylene fiber, a vinyl chloride fiber, or a chemically synthetic fiber such as a cellulose fiber, These may be used alone or in a blended state.
- the non-elastic yarn constituting the B yarn may contain additives such as a matting agent, a stabilizer and an antistatic agent. That is, a suitable material may be appropriately selected depending on the application.
- the polyurethane elastic yarn that is combined with the non-elastic yarn in the B yarn is not particularly limited, but is preferably a heat-fusible elastic fiber and/or a heat-bonding elastic fiber from the viewpoint of preventing fraying.
- at least a part of the warp yarns and at least a part of the wefts are woven by arranging and weaving a composite yarn composed of an easily soluble fiber soluble in water and/or a solvent and a polyurethane elastic fiber, When the soluble fiber is dissolved and removed, and the easily soluble fiber is an easily alkali soluble fiber, the polyurethane elastic fiber forming the B yarn is particularly preferably a polyether-based polyurethane elastic fiber having excellent alkali resistance. Used.
- the fineness, the number of single yarns, the cross-sectional shape, and the like of the polyurethane elastic fiber constituting the B yarn are not particularly limited.
- the yarn may be a monofilament composed of one single yarn or a multifilament composed of a plurality of single yarns.
- the cross-sectional shape of the yarn may be circular, or may be flat or cocoon-shaped.
- the polyurethane elastic fiber constituting the B yarn is preferably a yarn having a total fineness of 5 to 2500 dtex. When it is 5 dtex or more, the elongation is sufficiently high and the practical strength of the cloth can be obtained. On the other hand, when it is 2,500 dtex or less, the stretching power of the cloth does not become too large, and the cloth can be processed by the usual dyeing processing equipment.
- the non-elastic fiber constituting the B yarn may be a fiber other than the water-soluble fiber.
- the non-elastic fiber constituting the yarn B is a normal polyester fiber having excellent alkali resistance, nylon fiber, cellulosic fiber such as cotton and rayon, And these composite fibers are preferably used.
- the method of combining (combining) the inelastic fiber and the polyurethane elastic fiber is not particularly limited.
- a composite yarn such as a single covering yarn, a double covering yarn, an air covering yarn, and a mixed yarn twisted yarn in which polyurethane elastic fiber is used as a core yarn and an inelastic yarn is wound as a wound yarn can be used.
- a single covering yarn or an air covering yarn is preferable, and a single covering yarn is more preferable.
- the covering draft is preferably 1.0 to 4.0, more preferably 1.8 to 2.8.
- the covering draft is 1.0 or more, the stretchability of the woven fabric is sufficiently obtained, and if it is 4.0 or less, the woven fabric does not have a texture, the aesthetics and texture are not impaired, and the weavability is high, which is preferable. ..
- the twist coefficient K calculated by the above is preferably 18 to 85, more preferably 28 to 66, and further preferably 37 to 47.
- twist coefficient K is 18 or more, it is preferable that the fabric is free from defects such as polyurethane being difficult to cut during weaving. On the other hand, if the twist coefficient K is 85 or less, the cost of the covering thread is suppressed, and the fabric is wrinkled. It is preferable because it is difficult to do, the appearance of the fabric surface is not impaired, and the free-cutting performance including the anti-raveling performance is enhanced.
- the method of compounding the non-elastic fiber and the polyurethane elastic fiber is not limited to one type and may be a combination of a plurality of types.
- the compounding conditions and the like may be within the range usually performed.
- the yarn thus obtained may be post-treated by a generally known method.
- a conventionally known process may be used for the preparation process of the obtained composite yarn, and sizing or wax treatment is also possible.
- the woven fabric of the present embodiment there is a specific region where the warp and the weft are both the A yarn at the intersection of the warp and the weft, and the warp and the weft are fused or fused in the specific region.
- the ratio of the number of intersections between the warp yarns and the weft yarns A in the specific region to the total number of intersections between the warp yarns and the weft yarns is 0.02% or more and 50% or less. , Preferably 0.1% or more and 40% or less, more preferably 1.0% or more and 25% or less. If the ratio is less than 0.02%, sufficient anti-washing resistance cannot be obtained.
- the ratio of the number of intersections between the warp yarns and the weft yarns A in the specific area to the total number of intersections between the warp yarns and the weft yarns is determined by visually observing the complete design of the woven fabric with a loupe or the like. Measure and calculate the complete organization of the location.
- two warp A yarns that are adjacent to each other in the horizontal direction with the warp B yarn interposed therebetween and two weft A yarns that are adjacent to each other in the vertical direction with the weft B yarn interposed therebetween are defined by four intersections.
- the number of intersections between the warp B yarn and the weft B yarn in the defined region is preferably 1 or more and 10000 or less, more preferably 1 or more and 2500 or less, and further preferably 1 or more and 500 or less. Not more than one. If the number of intersections between the warp B yarn and the weft B yarn is 10,000 or less, sufficient anti-fray performance can be obtained.
- the texture of the woven fabric of the present embodiment is not particularly limited, and for example, there are three original textures such as plain weave, twill weave and satin weave, change plain weave, change twill weave, change weave such as change satin weave and honeycomb weave. , Special design such as imitation weave, satin weave, single double design such as warp double weave, weft double weave, double weave design such as wind weave, hollow weave, double velvet, etc., multilayer weave such as belt weave, etc.
- the horizontal stretch ratio is preferably 10% or more, more preferably 15% or more, further preferably 20% or more.
- the stretch rate is 10% or more
- the stretchability of the fabric is high at the time of wearing, so that a feeling of tension is not generated and sufficient wearing comfort can be obtained.
- the elongation recovery rate of the length and width of the woven fabric is preferably 50% or more, more preferably 60% or more, further preferably 65% or more. It is preferable that the elongation recovery rate of the woven fabric is 50% or more, because the fit feeling is excellent when the woven fabric is used as clothing.
- the grade of the anti-fraying property of the fabric of the present embodiment in the laundry fraying test is preferably 3rd grade or higher. If the anti-ravel performance is lower than the third grade, the cloth edge will be raveled when worn and washed repeatedly as uncut clothes, and the quality will deteriorate.
- the woven fabric of this embodiment it is preferable that two or more warp A yarns are continuously present in the horizontal direction and/or weft A yarns are continuously present in the vertical direction. Thereby, preferable anti-ravel performance can be secured.
- the woven fabric of the present embodiment includes a bare yarn of polyurethane elastic yarn or a composite yarn (A yarn) composed of polyurethane elastic yarn and easily soluble fiber, and a non-elastic yarn or a composite yarn of non-elastic yarn and polyurethane elastic yarn (B yarn).
- a yarn polyurethane elastic yarn or a composite yarn
- B yarn polyurethane elastic yarn
- the weaving method is not particularly limited, and it is preferable that the weaving loom (fly shuttle loom etc.) or the shuttleless loom (rapier loom, gripper loom, water jet loom, air jet loom etc.) be used.
- a fiber other than the water-soluble fiber it is preferable to use a fiber other than the water-soluble fiber as the easily soluble fiber.
- a bare polyurethane elastic yarn may be directly woven as the weft yarn as the A yarn, and in this case, it is preferable to use a rapier loom.
- the fabric of this embodiment has the following steps: A composite yarn comprising a part of the warp yarn and the weft yarn, which is soluble in water and/or a solvent, and a polyurethane elastic fiber, and a non-elastic yarn or a composite yarn of a non-elastic yarn and a polyurethane elastic yarn (B yarn) And weaving using; A step of dissolving and removing the easily soluble fiber with water and/or a solvent to form a specific region in which both the warp yarn and the weft yarn are the bare yarn (A yarn) of the polyurethane elastic yarn; A step of fusing or fusing the yarn and the weft A yarn; Can be manufactured by a method including.
- the method for compounding the polyurethane elastic fibers is not particularly limited.
- the covering draft is preferably 1.0 to 4.0, more preferably 1.5 to 3.5, and further preferably 2.0 to 3.0. If the covering draft is 1.0 or more, the stretchability of the woven fabric is sufficiently obtained, while if it is 4.0 or less, the woven fabric is not textured and the aesthetic appearance and texture are not deteriorated. It is preferable because it is expensive.
- a composite yarn composed of easily soluble fibers that dissolve in water and/or a solvent and polyurethane elastic fibers is a cover ring that uses polyurethane elastic fibers as a core yarn and easily soluble fibers that dissolve in water and/or a solvent as sheath yarns.
- K T/ ⁇ (10000/D) (2) ⁇ In the formula, T is the number of times the sheath yarn is wound around 1 meter of the core yarn (T/m) at the time of processing, and D is the fineness of the easily soluble fiber which is dissolved in water and/or a solvent. (Dtex).
- the twist coefficient K calculated from the above is preferably 18 to 85, more preferably 28 to 66, and further preferably 37 to 47. If the twist coefficient K is 18 or more, it is preferable that the woven fabric is free from defects such as the polyurethane being difficult to cut during weaving. On the other hand, if it is 85 or less, the cost of the covering yarn can be suppressed, which is preferable.
- the method of combining the easily soluble fiber and the polyurethane elastic fiber may be not only one type but also a plurality of combinations. The compounding conditions and the like may be those normally performed.
- the yarn thus obtained may be post-treated by a generally known method. For the preparation process of the obtained composite yarn, a conventionally known process may be used, and sizing or wax treatment is also possible.
- Examples of the easily soluble fiber that dissolves in water and/or a solvent include water-soluble fibers such as polyvinyl alcohol fibers, and a third component such as isophthalic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and metoxypolyoxyethylene glycol.
- Water-soluble fibers such as polyvinyl alcohol fibers
- a third component such as isophthalic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and metoxypolyoxyethylene glycol.
- Polymerized polyester fibers, polylactic acid fibers, and other alkali-soluble fibers, as well as alkali-soluble acrylic fibers and the like can be used, but are not particularly limited. Further, these may be used alone or in combination of two or more kinds, or two or more kinds of fibers may be compounded and used in one yarn. When these are used in combination, they can be used after being aligned, plied, or twisted.
- the woven fabric of the present embodiment in the case of weaving with a composite yarn composed of easily soluble fibers soluble in water and/or a specific solvent and a polyurethane elastic fiber, and a non-elastic yarn or a composite yarn of a non-elastic yarn and a polyurethane elastic yarn, By dissolving and removing at least a part of the easily soluble fiber with water and/or a solvent to expose the polyurethane elastic fiber, and then processing the woven fabric, the polyurethane elastic fibers arranged in the warp yarn and the weft yarn are separated from each other. Fuse or coalesce.
- the woven fabric may be immersed in water.
- the water temperature is preferably 20° C. or higher, more preferably dissolved and removed in a bath at 50° C. to 100° C., but not limited to these as long as the water-soluble fiber can be dissolved and removed.
- the woven fabric may be dipped in a bath solution of an alkaline aqueous solution containing sodium hydroxide.
- the temperature of the bath liquid is preferably 80 to 100° C., the time is preferably 10 to 30 minutes, the sodium hydroxide concentration is 0.5 to 3% ows, and the bath ratio is preferably 1:30 to 1:50.
- the conditions are not limited to these as long as the dissolved fibers can be dissolved and removed.
- the treatment temperature is preferably 140 to 210° C., and the treatment time is preferably 30 to 90 seconds.
- the treatment temperature is preferably 80 to 140° C., and the treatment time is preferably 15 seconds to 30 minutes.
- moist heat treatment it is preferable to use an apparatus capable of uniformly applying heat to the fiber structure.
- a normal pressure steamer or a high pressure steamer can be used, but the apparatus is not limited thereto.
- the fabric of the present embodiment is not limited to the usual dyeing finish processing, but also alkali weight reduction processing, nap raising processing, water absorption processing, water repellent processing, ultraviolet shielding processing, heat storage processing, antibacterial processing, printing.
- a desired pattern may be provided by processing, opal processing, heat embossing processing, punching processing, calendar processing. Further, various processing may be additionally applied to impart functions such as an antistatic agent, an antibacterial agent, a deodorant, an insect repellent, a luminous agent, a retroreflective agent, and a negative ion generator.
- the textile of the present embodiment is a textile product, for example, as clothing, sportswear, swimwear, homewear, coat, suit, blouson, blouse, shirt, skirt, slacks, kimono, lining of clothes, indoor sportswear, pajamas, Sleepwear, underwear, bras, shorts, lingerie, foundation, camisole, underdress, petticoat, socks, waistband, office wear, work clothes, food lab coat, nursing lab coat, patient wear, nursing wear, medical wear, students It is preferably used as clothes, kitchen clothes and the like.
- Stretch rate (%) (L1-L0) ⁇ 100/L0 ⁇ In the formula, L0 is the length (200 mm) between the original marks, and L1 is the length (mm) between the marks after a load of 14.7 N is applied for 1 minute. ⁇ , the stretch rate (%) is calculated, and the average value of three times is calculated, and rounded to one decimal place. If the stretch rate is 10% or more, it can be said that the stretchability is appropriate.
- a test piece with a width of 50 mm and a length of 300 mm is adjusted in each of three pieces in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction, one end of the test piece is fixed with an upper clamp using a tensile tester, and the other end has a width of 1 m.
- An initial load (N) corresponding to the gravity applied to the length is applied. Then, after marking at intervals of 20 cm and removing the initial load, a load of 14.7 N is gently applied and after holding for 1 hour, the length (mm) between the marks is measured. Then, the load is removed, and after 30 seconds, an initial load is applied and the length between the marks is measured again.
- Extension recovery rate (%) (L1-L2) ⁇ 100/(L1-L0) ⁇
- L0 is the length (200 mm) between the marks when an initial load is applied
- L1 is the length (mm) between the marks after applying a load of 14.7 N for 1 hour.
- L2 is the length (mm) between the marks when the initial load is applied 30 seconds after the load is removed.
- the elongation recovery rate (%) is calculated by the following formula, and the average value of three times is calculated and rounded to one decimal place.
- a load cloth may be added. At this time, one wash consists of 5 minutes of wash-dehydration-rinse 2 minutes-dewatering-rinse 2 minutes-dewatering, but 50 washings are combined into 250 minutes of washing-dewatering-rinsing 2 minutes-dewatering- Rinsing was 2 minutes and this was repeated 3 times. Then, the sample was naturally dried on the flat stand.
- ⁇ Anti-fray performance evaluation> The average of the maximum values of the raveling of the thread on the four sides and four cut portions of each of the three dried samples was used to make a class determination according to the following evaluation criteria.
- Grade 5 The average of the maximum value of fraying is less than 2 mm 4-5: The average of the maximum value of the fraying is 2 mm or more and less than 3 mm
- Class 4 The average of the maximum value of fraying is 3 mm or more and less than 4 mm 3-4 Class: The average of the maximum value of fraying is 4 mm or more and less than 5 mm.
- the third class The average of the maximum value of fraying is 5 mm or more and less than 6 mm.
- Class The average of the maximum value of fraying is 6 mm or more and less than 7 mm.
- Class The average of the maximum value of fraying is 7 mm or more and less than 8 mm 1-2 class: The average of the maximum value of fraying is 8 mm or more and less than 9 mm.
- the first class The average of the maximum value of fraying is 9 mm or more
- Weavability Weavability was evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria: ⁇ : The number of times the loom is stopped is 3 times or less per sewage length of one bob, and the defect points of the sewage are not noticeable. It is not particularly noticeable by visual inspection. ⁇ : Looms are stopped within 10 times per loom length, and the defects of the loom can be visually confirmed, but it is not conspicuous. ⁇ : Loom is stopped per loom length. The number of times is 11 times or more, or visually defective areas are noticeable on the whole.
- Example 1 Polyurethane elastic fiber 22 dtex as core yarn, nylon 66 false twist crimped yarn 22 dtex 20 filament as sheath yarn for warp and weft, polyurethane elastic fiber draft 2.5, single covering yarn with twist number 900 T/m Then, 6 pieces of heat-adhesive elastic fiber 22dtex (“Roika SF” (trade name) manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corp. as a core thread and 33 dtex12 filaments of easily soluble fiber (“Bel Pure” (trade name) manufactured by KB Seiren) are arranged.
- Roika SF trade name
- Bel Pure trade name
- Example 2 Polyurethane elastic fiber 22 dtex as core yarn, nylon 66 false twist crimped yarn 22 dtex 20 filament as sheath yarn for warp and weft, polyurethane elastic fiber draft 2.5, single covering yarn with twist number 900 T/m 6 pieces of heat-adhesive elastic fibers 22dtex (Asahi Kasei's "Loika SF" (trade name) core yarn, and easily soluble fibers 33dtex 12 filaments (KB Seiren's "Belle Pure” (trade name))
- As the sheath yarn a warp density of 275 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that one draft of polyurethane elastic fiber 2.5 and a single covering yarn having a twist of 800 T/m were arranged.
- 201 plain cloths/2.54 cm were obtained as a plain weave having the complete design shown in Fig. 2. The results of various performance evaluations of the obtained weave are shown in Table 1 below.
- Example 3 Polyurethane elastic fiber 22 dtex as core yarn, nylon 66 false twist crimped yarn 22 dtex 20 filament as sheath yarn for warp and weft, and polyurethane elastic fiber draft 2.3, single covering yarn with twist number 800 T/m 40 pieces of heat-adhesive elastic fibers 22dtex (Asahi Kasei's "Loika SF" (trade name) core yarn, and easily soluble fibers 33dtex 12 filaments (KB Seiren's "Belle Pure” (trade name))
- As the sheath yarn in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a polyurethane elastic fiber draft 2.3 and two single covering yarns having a twist number of 800 T/m were arranged, warp density 275 yarns/2.54 cm, weft A plain weave having a density of 201 pieces/2.54 cm was obtained, and the performance evaluation results of the obtained weave are shown in Table 1 below.
- Example 4 Polyurethane elastic fiber 22 dtex as core yarn, nylon 66 false twist crimped yarn 44 dtex 34 filament as sheath yarn as warp and weft, and polyurethane elastic fiber draft 2.5, single-covering yarn with twist number 700 T/m 50 heat-adhesive elastic fibers 22dtex (Asahi Kasei's "Loika SF" (trade name) is used as core yarn, and easily soluble fibers 33dtex 12 filaments (KB Seiren's "Belle Pure” (trade name))
- As the sheath yarn in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a polyurethane elastic fiber draft 2.3 and two single covering yarns having a twist number of 800 T/m were arranged, warp density 202 yarns/2.54 cm, weft A plain woven fabric having a density of 146 filaments/2.54 cm was obtained, and the performance evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric are shown in Table 1 below.
- Example 5 Polyurethane elastic fiber 22dtex as core yarn for warp and weft, nylon 66 false twist crimped yarn 22dtex 20 filament as sheath yarn, polyurethane elastic fiber draft 2.5, single covering yarn with twist number 900T/m Eighty-eight arranged, then 22 dtex of heat-adhesive elastic fiber (“Roika SF” (trade name) manufactured by Asahi Kasei Co., Ltd. as a core yarn, and 33 dtex 12 filaments of easily soluble fiber (“Bel Pure” (trade name) manufactured by KB Seiren) are sheathed.
- Roika SF trade name
- Bel Pure trade name
- the warp density is 275 threads/2.54 cm
- the weft density is the same as in Example 1 except that two polyurethane elastic fiber draft 2.3 and a single covering thread having a twist number of 800 T/m are arranged.
- a 201/2.54 cm plain woven fabric was obtained, and the performance evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric are shown in Table 1 below.
- Example 6 Polyurethane elastic fiber 22 dtex as core yarn, nylon 66 false twist crimped yarn 33 dtex 26 filament as sheath yarn for warp and weft, and polyurethane elastic fiber draft 2.5, single covering yarn with twist number 800 T/m , And then the heat-bonding elastic fiber 22dtex (“Roika SF” (trade name) manufactured by Asahi Kasei Co., Ltd.
- Example 7 Polyurethane elastic fiber 22 dtex as core yarn, nylon 66 false twist crimped yarn 33 dtex 26 filament as sheath yarn for warp and weft, and polyurethane elastic fiber draft 2.5, single covering yarn with twist number 800 T/m , And then the heat-bonding elastic fiber 22dtex (“Roika SF” (trade name) manufactured by Asahi Kasei Co., Ltd.
- Example 1 As the core yarn, and 33 dtex12 filaments of easily soluble fiber (“Bel Pure” (trade name) manufactured by KB Seiren) As the sheath yarn, in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a polyurethane elastic fiber draft 2.5 and two single covering yarns having a twist number of 800 T/m were arranged, the warp density was 229 yarns/2.54 cm, weft A plain woven fabric having a complete structure shown in Fig. 4 having a density of 169/2.54 cm was obtained, and the performance evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric are shown in Table 1 below.
- Example 8 Polyurethane elastic fiber 22 dtex as core yarn, nylon 66 false twist crimped yarn 22 dtex 20 filament as sheath yarn for warp and weft, and polyurethane elastic fiber draft 2.5, single covering yarn with twist number 500 T/m 6 pieces of heat-adhesive elastic fiber 22dtex (Asahi Kasei's "Loika SF" (trade name) core yarn, and easily soluble fiber 33dtex 12 filaments (KB Seiren's "Belle Pure” (trade name))
- the sheath yarn the warp density of 275 yarns/2.54 cm, weft were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that two drafts of polyurethane elastic fiber and two single covering yarns having a twist number of 800 T/m were arranged.
- a plain woven fabric having a complete design shown in Fig. 1 having a density of 201 fibers/2.54 cm was obtained, and the performance evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric are shown in Table 1 below.
- Example 9 Polyurethane elastic fiber 22dtex as core yarn, nylon 66 false twist crimped yarn 22dtex 20 filaments as sheath yarn for warp and weft, polyurethane elastic fiber draft 2.5, twist number 1200T/m single covering yarn 6 pieces of heat-adhesive elastic fibers 22dtex (Asahi Kasei's "Loika SF" (trade name) core yarn, and easily soluble fibers 33dtex 12 filaments (KB Seiren's "Belle Pure” (trade name))
- the warp density of 275 yarns/2.54 cm, weft were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that two drafts of polyurethane elastic fiber and two single covering yarns having a twist number of 800 T/m were arranged.
- a plain woven fabric having a complete design shown in Fig. 1 having a density of 201 fibers/2.54 cm was obtained, and the performance evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric are shown in Table 1 below.
- Example 10 Polyurethane elastic fiber 22 dtex as core yarn, nylon 66 false twist crimped yarn 22 dtex 20 filament as sheath yarn for warp and weft, polyurethane elastic fiber draft 2.5, single covering yarn with twist number 900 T/m 6 pieces of heat-adhesive elastic fibers 22dtex (Asahi Kasei's "Loika SF" (trade name) core yarn, and easily soluble fibers 33dtex 12 filaments (KB Seiren's "Belle Pure” (trade name))
- As the sheath yarn three polyurethane elastic fiber drafts 2.2 and a single covering yarn with a twist number of 800 T/m are arranged, and the complete design of the oblique weave fabric is used with a water jet loom two-color nozzle.
- Example 11 Polyurethane elastic fiber 22 dtex as core yarn, nylon 66 false twist crimped yarn 22 dtex 20 filament as sheath yarn for warp and weft, polyurethane elastic fiber draft 2.5, single covering yarn with twist number 900 T/m Then, 10 heat-adhesive elastic fibers 22dtex (Asahi Kasei "Roika SF" (trade name) as core yarn, and easily soluble fibers 33dtex 12 filaments (KB Seiren "Bell Pure” (trade name)) As a sheath yarn, five polyurethane elastic fiber drafts 2.2 and a single covering yarn having a twist number of 800 T/m are arranged, and the fully textured satin fabric shown in FIG.
- Example 12 For the warp and the weft, 6 air covering rings in which nylon 66 false twist crimped yarn 22dtex 20 filaments were air-entangled with the polyurethane elastic fiber 22dtex draft being 2.8 were arranged, and then the thermal adhesive elastic fiber 22dtex( Asahi Kasei's "Loika SF" (trade name) draft is set to 2.8, and two air-covering yarns in which air-entangled easily-dissolving fiber 33dtex12 filaments (KB Seiren's "Belle Pure” (trade name)) are entangled 1 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the warp density was 275 filaments/2.54 cm and the weft density was 201 filaments/2.54 cm. The results are shown in Table 2 below.
- Example 13 Polyurethane elastic fiber 22 dtex as core yarn, nylon 66 false twist crimped yarn 22 dtex 20 filament as sheath yarn for warp and weft, polyurethane elastic fiber draft 2.5, single covering yarn with twist number 900 T/m 6 of them are arranged, and then the heat-bondable elastic fiber 22dtex (the Asahi Kasei Corp. "Roika SF" (trade name) draft is set to 2.8 and the easily soluble fiber 33dtex 12 filaments (KB Seiren's "Bell Pure” (trade name) )) is air-entangled in the same manner as in Example 2 except that two air covering yarns are arranged, and the complete density shown in FIG. 1 having a warp density of 275 threads/2.54 cm and a weft density of 201 threads/2.54 cm is obtained. A plain weave having a structure was obtained, and the performance evaluation results of the obtained weave are shown in Table 2 below.
- polyurethane elastic fiber 22dtex was used as core yarn
- nylon 66 false twist crimped yarn 22dtex 20 filament was used as sheath yarn
- polyurethane elastic fiber draft was 2.5, and single covering thread with twist number 1000T/m was 6
- heat-adhesive elastic fiber 22dtex Asahi Kasei's "Loika SF" (trade name) as core yarn
- easily-dissolvable fiber 33dtex12 filament KB Seiren's "Belpure” (trade name)
- two single-covering yarns having a polyurethane elastic fiber draft of 2.5 and a twist number of 1000 T/m are arranged, and a polyurethane elastic fiber 22dtex is used as a core yarn and a nylon 66 false twist crimped yarn 22dtex20 filament is used as a weft yarn.
- a sheath yarn 6 single covering yarns with a polyurethane elastic fiber draft of 2.5 and a twist number of 1000 T/m are arranged, and then the thermal adhesive elastic fiber 22dtex (“Roika SF” manufactured by Asahi Kasei Co., Ltd. 2 are arranged with bare yarn (polyurethane elastic fiber only), and the plain weave of the complete design shown in Fig.
- Example 15 For the warp and weft, the heat-bonding elastic fiber 22dtex (“Roika SF” (trade name) manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corp.) is used as the core yarn, and the nylon 66 false twist crimped yarn 22dtex20 filament is used as the sheath yarn. .5, 6 single covering yarns with a twist number of 900 T/m are arranged, and then heat-bonding elastic fiber 22dtex (“Roika SF” (trade name) manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation) is used as a core yarn, and easily soluble fiber 33dtex12.
- Roika SF trade name
- Example except that filaments (“Belpure” (trade name) manufactured by KB Seiren Co., Ltd.) were used as sheath yarns, and two single covering yarns with polyurethane elastic fiber draft 2.4 and twist number 800T/m were arranged.
- the performance evaluation results of the resulting woven fabric are shown in Table 2 below. Shown in.
- Example 16 Nylon 66 false twist crimped yarn 33dtex26 filaments are arranged in 6 in the warp and weft, and then the thermal adhesive elastic fiber 22dtex (“Roika SF” (trade name) manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation is used as the core yarn and the easily soluble fiber 33dtex12).
- the performance evaluation results of the obtained woven fabrics are shown in Table 2 below. Shown in.
- Example 2 As a core yarn, and 33 dtex12 filaments of easily soluble fiber (“Bel Pure” (trade name) manufactured by KB Seiren Co., Ltd.) As the sheath yarn, in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a polyurethane elastic fiber draft 2.5 and a single covering yarn having a twist number of 800 T/m were arranged, warp density 275 yarns/2.54 cm, weft A plain weave having a density of 201 pieces/2.54 cm was obtained, and the performance evaluation results of the obtained weave are shown in Table 2 below.
- the woven fabric according to the present invention has appropriate stretchability, and since it has excellent anti-fray performance, the use of this fabric does not cause the fabric edge to fray even after repeated washing and wearing, and leaves the edges unnecessarily tidy. It is possible to obtain a textile product including the specified clothes.
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
- Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
Abstract
Description
また、以下の特許文献2では、熱融着弾性糸とそれ以外の糸をプレーティング編により編み立てることによりほつれ止め機能がある編地からなる切りっぱなし仕様である衣類が提案されている。
しかしながら、これらの技術は編物を中心とした技術であり、縁始末不要な切りっぱなし仕様である織物やかかる織物からなる衣類は一切開示されていない。
以下の特許文献3には、織物のほつれ防止については、コースターやテーブルクロス等のユニットマット式織物のほつれ防止を目的として、熱可溶性の緯糸を織成後に加熱して溶融させる織物及びその製造方法が開示されている。しかしながら、熱可溶性の糸が緯糸にのみ用いられていることから、織物の経方向のほつれ防止性は十分ではなかった。また、織物の裁断部にのみ熱可溶性の糸を使用することから、裁断できる部位が限られ、様々な角度に切りっぱなして使用するとほつれが生じることから、衣類に使用するには不適であった。
また、以下の特許文献4には、メッシュ調織物の目寄れを防止することを目的として、熱融着繊維と水又は溶剤により溶解する溶解繊維を含む織物に熱処理を施し、次いで該溶解繊維の一部を水又は溶剤により溶解除去することにより、織物の目寄れを防止したメッシュ調織物の製造方法が開示されている。しかしながら、メッシュを構成する穴の周辺にのみ熱融着繊維を配置していることから、様々な角度に切りっぱなして使用するとほつれが生じ、衣類に用いることはできなかった。また、メッシュ調織物を構成する繊維が熱融着繊維よりも高い融点を有する繊維からなることからストレッチ性に乏しく、着用快適性が求められる衣類には不適であった。
[1]ポリウレタン弾性糸の裸糸(A糸)、及び非弾性糸又は非弾性糸とポリウレタン弾性糸との複合糸(B糸)から構成される織物であって、経糸と緯糸の交差部において、該経糸と該緯糸が共に該A糸である特定領域が存在し、該特定領域において、該経糸と該緯糸が合着又は融着しており、かつ、該織物の完全組織において、経糸と緯糸の交差点の総数に対する該特定領域の経糸と緯糸のA糸同士の交差点の数の比率が、0.02%以上50%以下であることを特徴とする織物。
[2]経B糸を挟んでヨコ方向に隣接する2本の経A糸と、緯B糸を挟んでタテ方向に隣接する2本の緯A糸との4つの交差点により画される領域内に、経B糸と緯B糸との交差点の数が、10000個以下である、前記[1]に記載の織物。
[3]経A糸がヨコ方向に、及び/又は緯A糸がタテ方向に、2本以上連続して存在する、前記[1]又は[2]に記載の織物。
[4]前記非弾性糸とポリウレタン弾性糸との複合糸(経B糸と緯B糸)が、ポリウレタン弾性繊維を芯糸とし、非弾性糸を鞘糸とするシングルカバーリング糸であり、カバーリングドラフトが1.0以上4.0以下であり、かつ、下記式(1):
K = T/√(10000/D) (1)
{式中、Tは、加工時、芯糸1メートル間に鞘糸を巻きつけている回数(T/m)であり、そしてDは、非弾性糸の繊度(dtex)である。}により算出した撚り係数Kが18以上85以下である、前記[1]~[3]のいずれかに記載の織物。
[5]以下の工程:
経糸と緯糸の一部に、水及び/又は溶剤に溶解する易溶解性繊維とポリウレタン弾性繊維とからなる複合糸と、非弾性糸又は非弾性糸とポリウレタン弾性糸との複合糸(B糸)とを用いて製織する工程;
該易溶解性繊維を水及び/又は溶剤で溶解除去して、経糸と緯糸が共に、ポリウレタン弾性糸の裸糸(A糸)である特定領域を形成する工程;及び
該特定領域において、経A糸と緯A糸同士を合着又は融着する工程;
を含む、織物の製造方法。
[6]該特定領域において、経A糸と緯A糸同士を合着又は融着する工程が、熱加工による合着又は融着である、前記[5]に記載の方法。
[7]前記非弾性糸とポリウレタン弾性繊維との複合糸(経B糸と緯B糸)が、ポリウレタン弾性繊維を芯糸とし、非弾性糸を鞘糸とするシングルカバーリング糸であり、カバーリングドラフトが1.0以上4.0以下であり、かつ、下記式(2):
K = T/√(10000/D) (1)
{式中、Tは、加工時、芯糸1メートル間に鞘糸を巻きつけている回数(T/m)であり、そしてDは、非弾性糸の繊度(dtex)である。}により算出した撚り係数Kが18以上85以下である、前記[5]又は[6]に記載の方法。
[8]前記[1]~[4]のいずれかに記載の織物を含む繊維製品。
[9]切りっぱなし仕様である、前記[8]に記載の繊維製品。
[10]衣類である、前記[8]又は[9]に記載の繊維製品。
本実施形態の織物は、ポリウレタン弾性糸の裸糸(A糸)、及び非弾性糸又は非弾性糸とポリウレタン弾性糸との複合糸(B糸)から構成される織物であって、経糸と緯糸の交差部において、該経糸と該緯糸が共に該A糸である特定領域が存在し、該特定領域において、該経糸と該緯糸が合着又は融着しており、かつ、該織物の完全組織において、経糸と緯糸の交差点の総数に対する該特定領域の経糸と緯糸のA糸同士の交差点の数の比率が、0.02%以上50%以下であることを特徴とする。
本明細書中、用語「合着」とは、ポリウレタン弾性糸の交差部において弾性糸同士が加工により変形し互いに食い込んでいるが、交差部を剥すと互いに分解せずにきれいに剥がれる状態をいい、「融着」とは、交差部において弾性糸同士が互いに融けて一部一体化し、交差部を剥すと互いを分解せずに剥すことができない状態をいう。
さらに、経糸の少なくとも一部と緯糸の少なくとも一部に水及び/又は溶剤で溶解する易溶解性繊維とポリウレタン弾性繊維からなる複合糸を配置して製織し、該水及び/又は溶剤で易溶解性繊維を溶解除去する場合であって、易溶解性繊維が易アルカリ溶解性繊維である場合は、ポリウレタン弾性糸の裸糸(A糸)としては、耐アルカリ性に優れるポリエーテル系ポリウレタン弾性繊維が特に好ましく用いられる。ポリウレタン弾性糸の裸糸(A糸)は、所望の効果が損なわれない限り、ポリウレタン以外の成分を含んでいてもよく、水及び/又は溶剤で易溶解性繊維を溶解除去する場合、易溶解性繊維の未溶解物や分解物を含んでいてもよい。
前記熱融着性弾性繊維又は熱合着性弾性繊維としては、例えば、日清紡株式会社製のモビロン(商品名)や旭化成株式会社製のロイカSF(商品名)が例示されるが、熱によって繊維同士が融着する弾性繊維、あるいは熱によって変形し合着する弾性繊維であれば、これらに限定されない。
ポリウレタン弾性繊維の裸糸(A糸)は、総繊度5~2500dtexの糸であることが好ましい。5dtex以上であれば伸度が十分に高く、また、布帛の実用的強度が得られる。他方、2500dtex以下であれば、布帛の伸縮パワーが大きすぎることがなく、通常の染色加工設備で加工が可能となる。また、織物を構成する経糸の少なくとも一部と緯糸の少なくとも一部にポリウレタン弾性糸の裸糸を配置して裸糸を直接製織する場合は、22dtex以上であることが好ましい。
B糸を構成する非弾性糸としては特に限定されず、例えば、フィラメント糸としては、ポリアミド系繊維、ポリエステル系繊維、アクリル系繊維、ポリプロピレン系繊維、塩化ビニル系繊維、セルロース系繊維等の化学合成繊維からなるものが好ましい。フィラメント糸の形態は、原糸(未加工糸)、仮撚加工糸、先染糸などのいずれであってもよく、また、これらの複合糸であってもよい。更にフィラメント糸の断面形状としては、〇、△、十字、W型、M型、C型、I型、ドッグボーン型、中空糸など特に制限はない。紡績糸としては、木綿、羊毛、麻などの天然繊維、ポリアミド系繊維、ポリエステル系繊維、アクリル系繊維、ポリプロピレン系繊維、塩化ビニル系繊維、セルロース系繊維等の化学合成繊維からなるものが好ましく、これらは単独又は混紡されたもの等のいずれであってもよい。さらにB糸を構成する非弾性糸は、艶消剤、安定剤、制電剤などの添加剤を含んでいてもよい。すなわち用途によって、適宜好適な素材を選定すればよい。
また、経糸の少なくとも一部と緯糸の少なくとも一部に水及び/又は溶剤で溶解する易溶解性繊維とポリウレタン弾性繊維からなる複合糸を配置して製織し、該水及び/又は溶剤で易溶解性繊維を溶解除去する場合であって、易溶解性繊維が易アルカリ溶解性繊維である場合は、B糸を構成するポリウレタン弾性繊維としては、耐アルカリ性に優れるポリエーテル系ポリウレタン弾性繊維が特に好ましく用いられる。
またB糸を構成するポリウレタン弾性繊維は、トータル繊度5~2500dtexの糸であることが好ましい。5dtex以上であれば伸度が十分に高く、また布帛の実用的強度が得られる。他方、2500dtex以下であれば、布帛の伸縮パワーが大きすぎることがなく、通常の染色加工設備で加工が可能となる。
K = T/√(10000/D) (1)
{式中、Tは、加工時、芯糸1メートル間に鞘糸を巻きつけている回数(T/m)であり、そしてDは、非弾性糸の繊度(dtex)である。}により算出した撚り係数Kは、18~85が好ましく、より好ましくは28~66、さらに好ましくは37~47である。撚り係数Kが18以上であれば製織時にポリウレタンが切断しにくい等、織物に欠点が生じにくいため好ましく、他方、85以下であればカバーリング糸のコストが抑えられ、また、織物にシボが立ちにくく、生地表面の美観が損なわれず、さらにはほつれ止め性能を含むフリーカット性能が高まるため好ましい。
本実施形態の織物は、ポリウレタン弾性糸の裸糸又はポリウレタン弾性糸と易溶解性繊維からなる複合糸(A糸)と、非弾性糸又は非弾性糸とポリウレタン弾性糸の複合糸(B糸)を用いて製織することができる。その際、製織方法は特に限定されず、有杼織機(フライシャットル織機等)又は無杼織機(レピア織機、グリッパー織機、ウォータージェット織機、エアージェット織機等)等によって行われるのが好ましい。尚、ウォータージェット織機を使用する場合は、易溶解性繊維は水溶性繊維以外の繊維を使用することが好ましい。
また、A糸としてポリウレタン弾性糸の裸糸を緯糸として直接製織することもでき、その場合は、レピア織機を使用することが好ましい。
経糸と緯糸の一部に、水及び/又は溶剤に溶解する易溶解性繊維とポリウレタン弾性繊維とからなる複合糸と、非弾性糸又は非弾性糸とポリウレタン弾性糸との複合糸(B糸)とを用いて製織する工程;
該易溶解性繊維を水及び/又は溶剤で溶解除去して、経糸と緯糸が共に、ポリウレタン弾性糸の裸糸(A糸)である特定領域を形成する工程;及び
該特定領域において、経A糸と緯A糸同士を合着又は融着する工程;
を含む方法により製造することができる。
本実施形態の織物の製造において、経糸の少なくとも一部と緯糸の少なくとも一部に水及び/又は溶剤で溶解する易溶解性繊維とポリウレタン弾性繊維からなる複合糸を用いる場合、易溶解性繊維とポリウレタン弾性繊維の複合方法は、特に限定するものではない。例えば、ポリウレタン弾性繊維を芯糸とし、水及び/又は溶剤で溶解する易溶解性繊維を巻き糸としてカバーリングしたシングルカバーリング糸、ダブルカバーリング糸、エアーカバーリング糸、合糸撚糸などの複合糸等が挙げられるが、生産性やコストの面から、シングルカバーリング糸又はエアーカバーリング糸が好ましく、より好ましくはシングルカバーリング糸である。
K = T/√(10000/D) (2)
{式中、Tは、加工時、芯糸1メートル間に鞘糸を巻きつけている回数(T/m)であり、そしてDは、水及び/又は溶剤に溶解する易溶解性繊維の繊度(dtex)である。}により算出した撚り係数Kは、製織性とコストの観点から、18~85が好ましく、より好ましくは28~66、さらに好ましくは37~47である。撚り係数Kが18以上であれば製織時にポリウレタンが切断しにくい等、織物に欠点が生じにくいため好ましく、他方、85以下であればカバーリング糸のコストを抑えられるため好ましい。
易溶解性繊維とポリウレタン弾性繊維の複合方法は、1種類の方法だけでなく複数の組み合わせであってもよい。複合する条件等も通常行なわれるものでよい。得られた糸は、通常知られている方法で後処理を行ってもよい。得られた複合糸の準備工程は、従来知られている工程を用いればよく、サイジング又はワックス処理も可能である。
(1)ストレッチ率及び伸長回復率
織物のストレッチ率(%)は、JIS L 1096 B法(定荷重法)により、そして伸長回復率(%)は、JIS L 1096 B-1法(定荷重法)により測定した。
<ストレッチ率>
織物のタテ方向50mm×ヨコ方向300mmの試験片を3枚調整し、引張試験機を用い、試験片の一端を上部のクランプで固定し、他端に試験片の幅で1mの長さにかかる重力に相当する荷重(N)の初荷重をかける。次いで、200mm間隔に印をつけ、初荷重を取り除いた後、静かに14.7Nの荷重を加え、1分間保持後の印間の長さ(mm)を測る。
以下の式:
ストレッチ率(%)=(L1-L0)×100/L0
{式中、L0は、元の印間の長さ(200mm)であり、そしてL1は、14.7Nの荷重を加え、1分間保持後の印間の長さ(mm)である。}によりストレッチ率(%)を求め、3回の平均値を算出し、小数点以下1桁に丸める。
ストレッチ率が10%以上であれば、適度にストレッチ性があるといえる。
幅50mm×長さ300mmの試験片をタテ方向、ヨコ方向に各3枚調整し、引張試験機を用い、試験片の一端を上部のクランプで固定し、他端に試験片の幅で1mの長さにかかる重力に相当する荷重(N)の初荷重をかける。次いで、20cm間隔に印をつけ、初荷重を取り除いた後、静かに14.7Nの荷重を加え、1時間保持後、印間の長さ(mm)を測る。次に荷重を取り除き、30秒後に初荷重を加えて再び印間の長さを測る。
以下式:
伸長回復率(%)=(L1-L2)×100/(L1-L0)
{式中、L0は、初荷重を加えたときの印間の長さ(200mm)であり、L1は、14.7Nの荷重を1時間加えた後の印間の長さ(mm)であり、そしてL2は、荷重を取り除いた後30秒後に初荷重を加えたときの印間の長さ(mm)である。}により伸長回復率(%)を求め、3回の平均値を算出し、小数点以下1桁に丸める。
<試料の調製>
織物をタテ方向15cm×ヨコ方向15cm角にカットし、4つの角から織物の中心に向かって45度の角度で5cmの切込みをいれたものを試料とし、各3枚ずつ準備した。
<洗濯方法>
JIS L1096-2010(改訂)G法に規定されるパルセーター形家庭用電機洗濯機法で、JISL-0217:1995(改訂)の番号103の洗濯方法に従い、液温度40℃、浴比が1:30になるよう試料を投入して、洗剤は“アタック”(登録商標、花王社製)をメーカー標準濃度にて用い、洗濯を150回実施した。尚、試料の重量が洗濯槽の液量に対して浴比1:30に満たない場合は、負荷布を追加してもよい。この際、洗濯1回は、洗濯5分-脱水-すすぎ2分-脱水-すすぎ2分-脱水から構成されるが、洗濯50回分をまとめて、洗濯250分-脱水-すすぎ2分-脱水-すすぎ2分とし、これを3回繰り返した。その後、試料を平台の上で自然乾燥した。
乾燥した計3枚の各試料の四方の辺及び4箇所の切込み部分の糸のほつれの最大値の平均により、以下の評価基準で級判定した。
5級 : ほつれの最大値の平均が、2mm未満
4-5級 : ほつれの最大値の平均が、2mm以上~3mm未満
4級 : ほつれの最大値の平均が、3mm以上~4mm未満
3-4級 : ほつれの最大値の平均が、4mm以上~5mm未満
3級 : ほつれの最大値の平均が、5mm以上~6mm未満
2-3級 : ほつれの最大値の平均が、6mm以上~7mm未満
2級 : ほつれの最大値の平均が、7mm以上~8mm未満
1-2級 : ほつれの最大値の平均が、8mm以上~9mm未満
1級 : ほつれの最大値の平均が、9mm以上
製織性を以下の評価基準で判定した:
◎:1疋の生機長につき、織機の停止回数が3回以内、且つ生機欠点箇所が目視で目立たない
〇:1疋の生機長につき、織機の停止回数が6回以内、且つ生機欠点箇所が目視で特に目立たない
△:1疋の生機長につき、織機の停止回数が10回以内、且つ目視で生機欠点箇所が確認できるが、目立つ程度ではない
×:1疋の生機長につき、織機の停止回数が11回以上、若しくは目視で生機欠点箇所が全体的に目立つ。
織物の風合いにつき、次の3段階で官能評価した:
〇:肌触りがよい
△:ややゴムライクである
×:非常にゴムライクで肌触りが悪い
経糸と緯糸に、ポリウレタン弾性繊維22dtexを芯糸、ナイロン66仮撚捲縮加工糸22dtex20フィラメントを鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフトを2.5、撚り数を900T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を6本配列し、次いで、熱合着性弾性繊維22dtex(旭化成社製「ロイカSF」(商品名)を芯糸、易溶解性繊維33dtex12フィラメント(KBセーレン社製「ベルピュア」(商品名))を鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフト2.5、撚り数800T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を2本配列し、図1に示す完全組織の平織物を、ウォータージェット織機2色ノズルを用いて製織した。次いで常法に従い、精練(温度90℃、時間10分)、乾燥(風乾)し、水酸化ナトリウム濃度2%の浴液中で、浴比を1:30とし、95℃で20分、浴中処理を実施し、易溶融性繊維を完全溶解し、常法に従いプレセット、酸性染料による染色、乾燥(風乾)、仕上げセット(乾熱、温度180℃、時間60秒)を行い、経密度275本/2.54cm、緯密度201本/2.54cmの平織物を得た。得られた織物の各種性能評価結果を以下の表1に示す。
経糸と緯糸に、ポリウレタン弾性繊維22dtexを芯糸、ナイロン66仮撚捲縮加工糸22dtex20フィラメントを鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフトを2.5、撚り数を900T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を6本配列し、次いで熱合着性弾性繊維22dtex(旭化成社製「ロイカSF」(商品名)を芯糸、易溶解性繊維33dtex12フィラメント(KBセーレン社製「ベルピュア」(商品名))を鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフト2.5、撚り800T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を1本配列した以外は、実施例1と同様にして、経密度275本/2.54cm、緯密度201本/2.54cmの図2に示す完全組織の平織物を得た。得られた織物の各種性能評価結果を以下の表1に示す。
経糸と緯糸に、ポリウレタン弾性繊維22dtexを芯糸、ナイロン66仮撚捲縮加工糸22dtex20フィラメントを鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフトを2.3、撚り数を800T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を40本配列し、次いで熱合着性弾性繊維22dtex(旭化成社製「ロイカSF」(商品名)を芯糸、易溶解性繊維33dtex12フィラメント(KBセーレン社製「ベルピュア」(商品名))を鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフト2.3、撚り数800T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を2本配列した以外は、実施例1と同様にして、経密度275本/2.54cm、緯密度201本/2.54cmの平織物を得た。得られた織物の性能評価結果を以下の表1に示す。
経糸と緯糸に、ポリウレタン弾性繊維22dtexを芯糸、ナイロン66仮撚捲縮加工糸44dtex34フィラメントを鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフトを2.5、撚り数を700T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を50本配列し、次いで熱合着性弾性繊維22dtex(旭化成社製「ロイカSF」(商品名)を芯糸、易溶解性繊維33dtex12フィラメント(KBセーレン社製「ベルピュア」(商品名))を鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフト2.3、撚り数800T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を2本配列した以外は、実施例1と同様にして、経密度202本/2.54cm、緯密度146本/2.54cmの平織物を得た。得られた織物の性能評価結果を以下の表1に示す。
経糸と緯糸にポリウレタン弾性繊維22dtexを芯糸、ナイロン66仮撚捲縮加工糸22dtex20フィラメントを鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフトを2.5、撚り数を900T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を88本配列し、次いで熱合着性弾性繊維22dtex(旭化成社製「ロイカSF」(商品名)を芯糸、易溶解性繊維33dtex12フィラメント(KBセーレン社製「ベルピュア」(商品名))を鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフト2.3、撚り数800T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を2本配列した以外は、実施例1と同様にして、経密度275本/2.54cm、緯密度201本/2.54cmの平織物を得た。得られた織物の性能評価結果を以下の表1に示す。
経糸と緯糸に、ポリウレタン弾性繊維22dtexを芯糸、ナイロン66仮撚捲縮加工糸33dtex26フィラメントを鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフトを2.5、撚り数を800T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を1本配列し、次いで熱合着性弾性繊維22dtex(旭化成社製「ロイカSF」(商品名)を芯糸、易溶解性繊維33dtex12フィラメント(KBセーレン社製「ベルピュア」(商品名))を鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフト2.5、撚り数800T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を1本配列した以外は、実施例1と同様にして、経密度229本/2.54cm、緯密度169本/2.54cmの図3に示す完全組織の平織物を得た。得られた織物の性能評価結果を以下の表1に示す。
経糸と緯糸に、ポリウレタン弾性繊維22dtexを芯糸、ナイロン66仮撚捲縮加工糸33dtex26フィラメントを鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフトを2.5、撚り数を800T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を1本配列し、次いで熱合着性弾性繊維22dtex(旭化成社製「ロイカSF」(商品名)を芯糸、易溶解性繊維33dtex12フィラメント(KBセーレン社製「ベルピュア」(商品名))を鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフト2.5、撚り数800T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を2本配列した以外は、実施例1と同様にして、経密度229本/2.54cm、緯密度169/2.54cmの図4に示す完全組織の平織物を得た。得られた織物の性能評価結果を以下の表1に示す。
経糸と緯糸に、ポリウレタン弾性繊維22dtexを芯糸、ナイロン66仮撚捲縮加工糸22dtex20フィラメントを鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフトを2.5、撚り数を500T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を6本配列し、次いで熱合着性弾性繊維22dtex(旭化成社製「ロイカSF」(商品名)を芯糸、易溶解性繊維33dtex12フィラメント(KBセーレン社製「ベルピュア」(商品名))を鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフト2.5、撚り数800T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を2本配列した以外は、実施例1と同様にして、経密度275本/2.54cm、緯密度201本/2.54cmの図1に示す完全組織の平織物を得た。得られた織物の性能評価結果を以下の表1に示す。
経糸と緯糸に、ポリウレタン弾性繊維22dtexを芯糸、ナイロン66仮撚捲縮加工糸22dtex20フィラメントを鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフトを2.5、撚り数を1200T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を6本配列し、次いで熱合着性弾性繊維22dtex(旭化成社製「ロイカSF」(商品名)を芯糸、易溶解性繊維33dtex12フィラメント(KBセーレン社製「ベルピュア」(商品名))を鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフト2.5、撚り数800T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を2本配列した以外は、実施例1と同様にして、経密度275本/2.54cm、緯密度201本/2.54cmの図1に示す完全組織の平織物を得た。得られた織物の性能評価結果を以下の表1に示す。
経糸と緯糸に、ポリウレタン弾性繊維22dtexを芯糸、ナイロン66仮撚捲縮加工糸22dtex20フィラメントを鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフトを2.5、撚り数を900T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を6本配列し、次いで熱合着性弾性繊維22dtex(旭化成社製「ロイカSF」(商品名)を芯糸、易溶解性繊維33dtex12フィラメント(KBセーレン社製「ベルピュア」(商品名))を鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフト2.2、撚り数800T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を3本配列し、図5に示す完全組織の斜文織物を、ウォータージェット織機2色ノズルを用いて製織した。次に常法に従い、精練(温度90℃、時間10分)、乾燥(風乾)し、水酸化ナトリウム濃度2%の浴液中で95℃×20分、浴中処理を実施し、易溶融性繊維を完全溶解し、プレセット、染色、乾燥(風乾)、仕上げセット(乾熱、温度180℃、時間60秒)を行い、経密度330本/2.54cm、緯密度240本/2.54cmの斜文織物を得た。得られた織物の性能評価結果を以下の表1に示す。
経糸と緯糸に、ポリウレタン弾性繊維22dtexを芯糸、ナイロン66仮撚捲縮加工糸22dtex20フィラメントを鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフトを2.5、撚り数を900T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を10本配列し、次いで熱合着性弾性繊維22dtex(旭化成社製「ロイカSF」(商品名)を芯糸、易溶解性繊維33dtex12フィラメント(KBセーレン社製「ベルピュア」(商品名))を鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフト2.2、撚り数800T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を5本配列し、図6に示す完全組織朱子織物を、ウォータージェット織機2色ノズルを用いて製織した。次に常法に従い、精練(温度90℃、時間10分)、乾燥(風乾)し、水酸化ナトリウム濃度2%の浴液中で95℃×20分、浴中処理を実施し、易溶融性繊維を完全溶解し、プレセット、染色、乾燥(風乾)、仕上げセット(乾熱、温度180℃、時間60秒)を行い、経密度373本/2.54cm、緯密度280本/2.54cmの朱子織物を得た。得られた織物の性能評価結果を以下の表2に示す。
経糸と緯糸に、ポリウレタン弾性繊維22dtexのドラフトを2.8としてナイロン66仮撚捲縮加工糸22dtex20フィラメントを空気交絡させたエアーカバーリング糸を6本配列し、次いで熱合着性弾性繊維22dtex(旭化成社製「ロイカSF」(商品名)のドラフトを2.8として易溶解性繊維33dtex12フィラメント(KBセーレン社製「ベルピュア」(商品名))を空気交絡させたエアーカバーリング糸を2本配列した以外は、実施例1と同様にして、経密度275本/2.54cm、緯密度201本/2.54cmの図1に示す完全組織の平織物を得た。得られた織物の性能評価結果を以下の表2に示す。
経糸と緯糸に、ポリウレタン弾性繊維22dtexを芯糸、ナイロン66仮撚捲縮加工糸22dtex20フィラメントを鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフトを2.5、撚り数を900T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を6本配列し、次いで熱合着性弾性繊維22dtex(旭化成社製「ロイカSF」(商品名)のドラフトを2.8として易溶解性繊維33dtex12フィラメント(KBセーレン社製「ベルピュア」(商品名))を空気交絡させたエアーカバーリング糸を2本配列した以外は、実施例1と同様にして、経密度275本/2.54cm、緯密度201本/2.54cmの図1に示す完全組織の平織物を得た。得られた織物の性能評価結果を以下の表2に示す。
経糸に、ポリウレタン弾性繊維22dtexを芯糸、ナイロン66仮撚捲縮加工糸22dtex20フィラメントを鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフトを2.5、撚り数を1000T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を6本配列し、次いで熱合着性弾性繊維22dtex(旭化成社製「ロイカSF」(商品名)を芯糸、易溶解性繊維33dtex12フィラメント(KBセーレン社製「ベルピュア」(商品名))を鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフト2.5、撚り数1000T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を2本配列し、緯糸に、ポリウレタン弾性繊維22dtexを芯糸、ナイロン66仮撚捲縮加工糸22dtex20フィラメントを鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフトを2.5、撚り数を1000T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を6本配列し、次いで熱合着性弾性繊維22dtex(旭化成社製「ロイカSF」(商品名)を裸糸(ポリウレタン弾性繊維のみ)で2本配列し、図1に示す完全組織の平織物を、レピア織機を用いて製織した。次に常法に従い、精練(温度90℃、時間10分)、乾燥(風乾)し、水酸化ナトリウム濃度2%の浴液中で95℃×20分、浴中処理を実施し、易溶融性繊維を完全溶解し、プレセット、染色、乾燥(風乾)、仕上げセット(乾熱、温度180℃、時間60秒)を行い、経密度261本/2.54cm、緯密度201本/2.54cmの平織物を得た。得られた織物の性能評価結果を以下の表2に示す。
経糸と緯糸に、熱合着性弾性繊維22dtex(旭化成社製「ロイカSF」(商品名)を芯糸、ナイロン66仮撚捲縮加工糸22dtex20フィラメントを鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフトを2.5、撚り数を900T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を6本配列し、次いで熱合着性弾性繊維22dtex(旭化成社製「ロイカSF」(商品名)を芯糸、易溶解性繊維33dtex12フィラメント(KBセーレン社製「ベルピュア」(商品名))を鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフト2.4、撚り数800T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を2本配列しした以外は、実施例1と同様にして、経密度275本/2.54cm、緯密度201本/2.54cmの図1に示す完全組織の平織物を得た。得られた織物の性能評価結果を以下の表2に示す。
経糸と緯糸に、ナイロン66仮撚捲縮加工糸33dtex26フィラメントを6本配列し、次いで熱合着性弾性繊維22dtex(旭化成社製「ロイカSF」(商品名)を芯糸、易溶解性繊維33dtex12フィラメント(KBセーレン社製「ベルピュア」(商品名))を鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフト2.5、撚り数1000T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を2本配列しした以外は、実施例1と同様にして、経密度229本/2.54cm、緯密度169本/2.54cmの図1に示す完全組織の平織物を得た。得られた織物の性能評価結果を以下の表2に示す。
経糸と緯糸に、ポリウレタン弾性繊維22dtexを芯糸、ナイロン66仮撚捲縮加工糸22dtex20フィラメントを鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフトを2.5、撚り数を900T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を101本配列し、次いで熱合着性弾性繊維22dtex(旭化成社製「ロイカSF」(商品名)を芯糸、易溶解性繊維33dtex12フィラメント(KBセーレン社製「ベルピュア」(商品名))を鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフト2.5、撚り数800T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を1本配列した以外は、実施例1と同様にして、経密度275本/2.54cm、緯密度201本/2.54cmの平織物を得た。得られた織物の性能評価結果を以下の表2に示す。
経糸と緯糸に、ポリウレタン弾性繊維22dtexを芯糸、ナイロン66仮撚捲縮加工糸22dtex20フィラメントを鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフトを2.5、撚り数を1000T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を75本配列し、次いで熱合着性弾性繊維22dtex(旭化成社製「ロイカSF」(商品名)を芯糸、易溶解性繊維33dtex12フィラメント(KBセーレン社製「ベルピュア」(商品名))を鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフト2.5、撚り数1000T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を1本配列した以外は、実施例1と同様にして、経密度275本/2.54cm、緯密度201本/2.54cmの平織物を得た。得られた織物の性能評価結果を以下の表2に示す。
経糸と緯糸に、ナイロン66生糸22dtex20フィラメントを用いて図7で示す完全組織の平織物をウォータージェット織機で製織した。次に常法に従い、精練(温度90℃、時間10分)、乾燥(風乾)した後、常法に従い、プレセット、酸性染料による染色、乾燥(風乾)、仕上げセット(乾熱、温度180℃、時間60秒)を行い、経密度210本/2.54cm、緯密度168本/2.54cmの平織物を得た。得られた織物の性能評価結果を以下の表2に示す。
経糸と緯糸に、ポリウレタン弾性繊維22dtexを芯糸、ナイロン66仮撚捲縮加工糸22dtex20フィラメントを鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフトを2.5、撚り数を900T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を2本配列し、次いで、熱合着性弾性繊維22dtex(旭化成社製「ロイカSF」(商品名)を芯糸、易溶解性繊維33dtex12フィラメント(KBセーレン社製「ベルピュア」(商品名))を鞘糸として、ポリウレタン弾性繊維のドラフト2.5、撚り数800T/mとしたシングルカバーリング糸を6本配列した以外は、実施例1と同様にして、経密度275本/2.54cm、緯密度201本/2.54cmの平織物を得た。得られた織物の性能評価結果を以下の表2に示す。
Claims (10)
- ポリウレタン弾性糸の裸糸(A糸)、及び非弾性糸又は非弾性糸とポリウレタン弾性糸との複合糸(B糸)から構成される織物であって、経糸と緯糸の交差部において、該経糸と該緯糸が共に該A糸である特定領域が存在し、該特定領域において、該経糸と該緯糸が合着又は融着しており、かつ、該織物の完全組織において、経糸と緯糸の交差点の総数に対する該特定領域の経糸と緯糸のA糸同士の交差点の数の比率が、0.02%以上50%以下であることを特徴とする織物。
- 経B糸を挟んでヨコ方向に隣接する2本の経A糸と、緯B糸を挟んでタテ方向に隣接する2本の緯A糸との4つの交差点により画される領域内に、経B糸と緯B糸との交差点の数が、10000個以下である、請求項1に記載の織物。
- 経A糸がヨコ方向に、及び/又は緯A糸がタテ方向に、2本以上連続して存在する、請求項1又は2に記載の織物。
- 前記非弾性糸とポリウレタン弾性糸との複合糸(経B糸と緯B糸)が、ポリウレタン弾性繊維を芯糸とし、非弾性糸を鞘糸とするシングルカバーリング糸であり、カバーリングドラフトが1.0以上4.0以下であり、かつ、下記式(1):
K = T/√(10000/D) (1)
{式中、Tは、加工時、芯糸1メートル間に鞘糸を巻きつけている回数(T/m)であり、そしてDは、非弾性糸の繊度(dtex)である。}により算出した撚り係数Kが18以上85以下である、請求項1~3のいずれか1項に記載の織物。 - 以下の工程:
経糸と緯糸の一部に、水及び/又は溶剤に溶解する易溶解性繊維とポリウレタン弾性繊維とからなる複合糸と、非弾性糸又は非弾性糸とポリウレタン弾性糸との複合糸(B糸)とを用いて製織する工程;
該易溶解性繊維を水及び/又は溶剤で溶解除去して、経糸と緯糸が共に、ポリウレタン弾性糸の裸糸(A糸)である特定領域を形成する工程;及び
該特定領域において、経A糸と緯A糸同士を合着又は融着する工程;
を含む、織物の製造方法。 - 該特定領域において、経A糸と緯A糸同士を合着又は融着する工程が、熱加工による合着又は融着である、請求項5に記載の方法。
- 前記非弾性糸とポリウレタン弾性繊維との複合糸(経B糸と緯B糸)が、ポリウレタン弾性繊維を芯糸とし、非弾性糸を鞘糸とするシングルカバーリング糸であり、カバーリングドラフトが1.0以上4.0以下であり、かつ、下記式(2):
K = T/√(10000/D) (1)
{式中、Tは、加工時、芯糸1メートル間に鞘糸を巻きつけている回数(T/m)であり、そしてDは、非弾性糸の繊度(dtex)である。}により算出した撚り係数Kが18以上85以下である、請求項5又は6に記載の方法。 - 請求項1~4のいずれか1項に記載の織物を含む繊維製品。
- 切りっぱなし仕様である、請求項8に記載の繊維製品。
- 衣類である、請求項8又は9に記載の繊維製品。
Priority Applications (4)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
US17/424,008 US20220081809A1 (en) | 2019-02-08 | 2020-02-07 | Woven Fabric, Method for Producing Same, and Fiber Product Containing Said Woven Fabric |
JP2020571313A JP7297264B2 (ja) | 2019-02-08 | 2020-02-07 | 織物及びその製造方法並びに該織物を含む繊維製品 |
CA3126906A CA3126906C (en) | 2019-02-08 | 2020-02-07 | Woven fabric, method for producing same, and fiber product containing said woven fabric |
CN202080013061.5A CN113423884B (zh) | 2019-02-08 | 2020-02-07 | 织物及其制造方法、以及包含该织物的纤维制品 |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
JP2019022012 | 2019-02-08 | ||
JP2019-022012 | 2019-02-08 |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
WO2020162624A1 true WO2020162624A1 (ja) | 2020-08-13 |
Family
ID=71946988
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
PCT/JP2020/004957 WO2020162624A1 (ja) | 2019-02-08 | 2020-02-07 | 織物及びその製造方法並びに該織物を含む繊維製品 |
Country Status (6)
Country | Link |
---|---|
US (1) | US20220081809A1 (ja) |
JP (1) | JP7297264B2 (ja) |
CN (1) | CN113423884B (ja) |
CA (1) | CA3126906C (ja) |
TW (1) | TWI808304B (ja) |
WO (1) | WO2020162624A1 (ja) |
Cited By (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US20220047022A1 (en) * | 2019-05-08 | 2022-02-17 | Delta Galil Industries Ltd. | Garment and Clothes that are Unravel-Free and Roll-Free |
TWI797822B (zh) * | 2021-02-18 | 2023-04-01 | 印度商洛希亞股份有限公司 | 平織布、製作平織布之方法及以平織布製成的袋子 |
WO2023136107A1 (ja) * | 2021-12-27 | 2023-07-20 | 古市株式会社 | ほつれ防止織物 |
CN117818173A (zh) * | 2023-06-09 | 2024-04-05 | 北京方仕工贸有限公司 | 一种抗皱效果好的复合面料及加工工艺 |
Families Citing this family (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JP6501334B1 (ja) * | 2018-09-06 | 2019-04-17 | 内野株式会社 | 多重ガーゼ織物 |
CN113403722B (zh) * | 2021-07-07 | 2023-04-07 | 内蒙古鄂尔多斯资源股份有限公司 | 纯羊绒弹力轻薄花呢及其织造方法 |
Citations (8)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JP2005105458A (ja) * | 2003-09-30 | 2005-04-21 | Maeda Seni Kogyo Kk | 滑り防止性を有する織編物地および各種製品並びにその製造方法 |
JP2006169688A (ja) * | 2004-12-17 | 2006-06-29 | Toyobo Co Ltd | 裁断部のほつれにくい編織物 |
JP2006225798A (ja) * | 2005-02-17 | 2006-08-31 | Kuraray Trading Kk | 複合糸 |
JP2008075230A (ja) * | 2006-09-25 | 2008-04-03 | Marumatsu Seni:Kk | 伸縮性を備えた細幅織物 |
WO2011040359A1 (ja) * | 2009-09-30 | 2011-04-07 | 日清紡テキスタイル株式会社 | 織編物 |
JP2012057262A (ja) * | 2010-09-06 | 2012-03-22 | Marumatsu Seni:Kk | 細幅織物の多重構造体及びその製造方法 |
JP2013147762A (ja) * | 2012-01-18 | 2013-08-01 | Nisshinbo Textile Inc | 織物製品 |
JP2018080418A (ja) * | 2016-11-17 | 2018-05-24 | 山屋産業株式会社 | 織編物及びその製造方法 |
Family Cites Families (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JPH08302564A (ja) * | 1995-05-09 | 1996-11-19 | Suminoe Textile Co Ltd | 伸縮性布帛の製造方法 |
JPH09250040A (ja) * | 1996-03-14 | 1997-09-22 | Fukushima Pref Gov | 超高伸縮性織物の製織方法 |
JPH11158702A (ja) * | 1997-11-27 | 1999-06-15 | Sanyo Medias Kk | 靴 下 |
JP3661857B2 (ja) * | 2001-10-29 | 2005-06-22 | 東洋紡績株式会社 | 多段階耳組織を有する織物 |
CN205474225U (zh) * | 2016-01-19 | 2016-08-17 | 东莞宏阳织带有限公司 | 一种织物及松紧带 |
CN108265375A (zh) * | 2018-04-16 | 2018-07-10 | 无锡百和织造股份有限公司 | 一种防滑接触舒适不脱散涤纶带及其制造方法和应用 |
-
2020
- 2020-02-07 WO PCT/JP2020/004957 patent/WO2020162624A1/ja active Application Filing
- 2020-02-07 JP JP2020571313A patent/JP7297264B2/ja active Active
- 2020-02-07 CA CA3126906A patent/CA3126906C/en active Active
- 2020-02-07 TW TW109103879A patent/TWI808304B/zh active
- 2020-02-07 US US17/424,008 patent/US20220081809A1/en active Pending
- 2020-02-07 CN CN202080013061.5A patent/CN113423884B/zh active Active
Patent Citations (8)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JP2005105458A (ja) * | 2003-09-30 | 2005-04-21 | Maeda Seni Kogyo Kk | 滑り防止性を有する織編物地および各種製品並びにその製造方法 |
JP2006169688A (ja) * | 2004-12-17 | 2006-06-29 | Toyobo Co Ltd | 裁断部のほつれにくい編織物 |
JP2006225798A (ja) * | 2005-02-17 | 2006-08-31 | Kuraray Trading Kk | 複合糸 |
JP2008075230A (ja) * | 2006-09-25 | 2008-04-03 | Marumatsu Seni:Kk | 伸縮性を備えた細幅織物 |
WO2011040359A1 (ja) * | 2009-09-30 | 2011-04-07 | 日清紡テキスタイル株式会社 | 織編物 |
JP2012057262A (ja) * | 2010-09-06 | 2012-03-22 | Marumatsu Seni:Kk | 細幅織物の多重構造体及びその製造方法 |
JP2013147762A (ja) * | 2012-01-18 | 2013-08-01 | Nisshinbo Textile Inc | 織物製品 |
JP2018080418A (ja) * | 2016-11-17 | 2018-05-24 | 山屋産業株式会社 | 織編物及びその製造方法 |
Cited By (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US20220047022A1 (en) * | 2019-05-08 | 2022-02-17 | Delta Galil Industries Ltd. | Garment and Clothes that are Unravel-Free and Roll-Free |
TWI797822B (zh) * | 2021-02-18 | 2023-04-01 | 印度商洛希亞股份有限公司 | 平織布、製作平織布之方法及以平織布製成的袋子 |
WO2023136107A1 (ja) * | 2021-12-27 | 2023-07-20 | 古市株式会社 | ほつれ防止織物 |
CN117818173A (zh) * | 2023-06-09 | 2024-04-05 | 北京方仕工贸有限公司 | 一种抗皱效果好的复合面料及加工工艺 |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
JP7297264B2 (ja) | 2023-06-26 |
CN113423884B (zh) | 2023-07-25 |
TW202043565A (zh) | 2020-12-01 |
TWI808304B (zh) | 2023-07-11 |
JPWO2020162624A1 (ja) | 2021-09-30 |
CN113423884A (zh) | 2021-09-21 |
CA3126906C (en) | 2024-05-07 |
CA3126906A1 (en) | 2020-08-13 |
US20220081809A1 (en) | 2022-03-17 |
Similar Documents
Publication | Publication Date | Title |
---|---|---|
WO2020162624A1 (ja) | 織物及びその製造方法並びに該織物を含む繊維製品 | |
TWI731000B (zh) | 平面扣具及纖維製品 | |
JP2007182650A (ja) | 熱融着ポリウレタン弾性繊維混用緯編地及び該緯編地を使用した衣類、並びに該緯編地の製造方法 | |
JP5714811B2 (ja) | 衣服およびその製造方法 | |
JP4193070B2 (ja) | 熱融着ポリウレタン弾性繊維混用緯編地及び該緯編地を使用した衣類、並びに該緯編地の製造方法 | |
JP2010209487A (ja) | 複合紡績糸、その製造方法及び該複合紡績糸を用いた織物 | |
JP2004124348A (ja) | 複合織編物 | |
JP2007270358A (ja) | 着用快適性に優れる厚地織物およびデニム商品 | |
JP5650274B2 (ja) | 熱融着性複合糸およびこれを用いた織編物 | |
JP6455094B2 (ja) | 織物 | |
JP2008248445A (ja) | ポリエステル編地およびその製造方法および繊維製品 | |
JP2008095246A (ja) | 吸湿機能及び速乾機能を有する吸湿速乾糸を含む下着の付属部分品及びそれが付設される下着 | |
JP6578650B2 (ja) | 複合糸及びこれを用いた布帛 | |
JP7388937B2 (ja) | 通気性織物とその製造方法及びこれを用いた衣服 | |
JP5896059B2 (ja) | 織物およびその製造方法 | |
KR101772435B1 (ko) | 경편직물과 이의 제조방법 | |
JP2019180838A (ja) | 面ファスナーおよび繊維製品 | |
JP7168248B2 (ja) | 多重ガーゼ織物 | |
JP7003499B2 (ja) | 多層構造織物 | |
JP7189575B2 (ja) | 織物 | |
JP7223522B2 (ja) | 通気性織物とその製造方法及びこれを用いた衣服 | |
JP2024051962A (ja) | 織物製品 | |
JP2005105455A (ja) | 織物 | |
TR2021011919T (tr) | Dokunmuş kumaş, aynisinin üreti̇mi̇ i̇çi̇n yöntem ve adi geçen dokunmuş kumaşi i̇çeren fi̇ber ürün | |
JP2019187601A (ja) | 面ファスナーおよび血圧測定用カフ |
Legal Events
Date | Code | Title | Description |
---|---|---|---|
121 | Ep: the epo has been informed by wipo that ep was designated in this application |
Ref document number: 20752487 Country of ref document: EP Kind code of ref document: A1 |
|
ENP | Entry into the national phase |
Ref document number: 2020571313 Country of ref document: JP Kind code of ref document: A |
|
ENP | Entry into the national phase |
Ref document number: 3126906 Country of ref document: CA |
|
NENP | Non-entry into the national phase |
Ref country code: DE |
|
122 | Ep: pct application non-entry in european phase |
Ref document number: 20752487 Country of ref document: EP Kind code of ref document: A1 |